1 00:00:04,640 --> 00:00:09,440 For Edwardian Britons, a Bradshaw's was an indispensable guide 2 00:00:09,440 --> 00:00:11,800 to a railway network at its peak. 3 00:00:13,880 --> 00:00:17,080 I'm using an early 20th century edition, 4 00:00:17,080 --> 00:00:21,600 to navigate a vibrant and optimistic Britain at the height of its power 5 00:00:21,600 --> 00:00:23,240 and influence in the world. 6 00:00:25,760 --> 00:00:28,120 But a nation wrestling with political, 7 00:00:28,120 --> 00:00:31,200 social, and industrial unrest at home. 8 00:00:56,760 --> 00:01:00,120 It's easy to assume that it was the First World War 9 00:01:00,120 --> 00:01:04,480 that changed Britain, equipping it for the 20th century. 10 00:01:04,480 --> 00:01:07,320 And, on that view, the prewar period can seem like 11 00:01:07,320 --> 00:01:11,880 a long, summer's afternoon of calm before the mayhem. 12 00:01:11,880 --> 00:01:15,400 But, as I travel from the north-eastern coast of England, 13 00:01:15,400 --> 00:01:18,720 using my prewar Bradshaw's guide, 14 00:01:18,720 --> 00:01:22,680 I expect to discover that those were, in fact, tumultuous years. 15 00:01:29,440 --> 00:01:32,320 My journey starts in East Yorkshire 16 00:01:32,320 --> 00:01:35,360 and continues to the Roman city of York. 17 00:01:35,360 --> 00:01:39,000 From there, I'll move inland across the industrial heartlands 18 00:01:39,000 --> 00:01:42,200 of West and South Yorkshire, and Merseyside. 19 00:01:43,440 --> 00:01:45,920 After exploring Edwardian Liverpool, 20 00:01:45,920 --> 00:01:48,640 I'll wend my way through North Wales, 21 00:01:48,640 --> 00:01:51,840 hugging its northern coast and finishing in Caernarfon. 22 00:01:54,160 --> 00:01:55,880 The first leg of my travels 23 00:01:55,880 --> 00:01:58,840 begins in East Yorkshire and the city of Hull. 24 00:01:59,960 --> 00:02:03,680 Then I'll make my way north to the seaside resort of Scarborough. 25 00:02:05,200 --> 00:02:08,440 From there I'll head south-west to the town of Malton, 26 00:02:08,440 --> 00:02:10,040 on the River Derwent. 27 00:02:12,720 --> 00:02:16,440 On this trip, the chips are down but I'm on the up. 28 00:02:16,440 --> 00:02:18,000 Hee-hee! 29 00:02:18,000 --> 00:02:19,960 Oh, let's play again! 30 00:02:19,960 --> 00:02:21,400 LAUGHTER 31 00:02:21,400 --> 00:02:24,080 I hear a tale of wartime resilience. 32 00:02:24,080 --> 00:02:27,640 There was a rumble in the air, people thought it might be thunder, 33 00:02:27,640 --> 00:02:30,800 but it wasn't. It was the shells from the German navy. 34 00:02:30,800 --> 00:02:34,200 And I get a taste of Edwardian temperance. 35 00:02:34,200 --> 00:02:37,600 "Not even a dipsomaniac would have touched this mixture 36 00:02:37,600 --> 00:02:39,520 "of fungus and smelly liquid." 37 00:02:39,520 --> 00:02:41,120 That's superb. She had a way with words. 38 00:02:48,680 --> 00:02:52,240 My Bradshaw's lists the shipping services that were available 39 00:02:52,240 --> 00:02:54,080 from my first stop, Hull. 40 00:02:54,080 --> 00:02:58,400 And they ran almost everywhere, from Yarmouth to Bombay, 41 00:02:58,400 --> 00:03:01,360 from Dundee to Montevideo. 42 00:03:01,360 --> 00:03:06,360 I should be interested to know how the port of Kingston upon Hull, 43 00:03:06,560 --> 00:03:09,800 advantageously situated on the Humber Estuary, 44 00:03:09,800 --> 00:03:12,680 where the waters of the River Hull run into it, 45 00:03:12,680 --> 00:03:17,360 became so important for fishing, cargoes and passengers. 46 00:03:32,560 --> 00:03:37,600 At the turn of the 20th century, Hull was a prosperous harbour town. 47 00:03:37,600 --> 00:03:42,720 It had been granted city status on Queen Victoria's Jubilee in 1897. 48 00:03:43,720 --> 00:03:48,280 But, as the new century unfolded, the city's economy suffered. 49 00:03:48,280 --> 00:03:52,160 In recent years, Hull might have appeared down on its luck. 50 00:03:52,160 --> 00:03:54,880 But, today, it's experiencing a renaissance. 51 00:03:56,720 --> 00:04:00,240 Hull was Britain's City Of Culture, 2017. 52 00:04:00,240 --> 00:04:02,400 There was music and dance and theatre. 53 00:04:02,400 --> 00:04:04,840 The Turner Art Prize was judged here. 54 00:04:04,840 --> 00:04:07,200 A bit of money was spent on the place 55 00:04:07,200 --> 00:04:10,680 and the city feels more optimistic about its future. 56 00:04:13,760 --> 00:04:16,400 Ladies. Hello. Excuse me, I just wondering, 57 00:04:16,400 --> 00:04:19,800 has the city of culture meant anything to you? Yeah, quite a lot. 58 00:04:19,800 --> 00:04:22,520 I definitely think it's brought a lot to the area. 59 00:04:22,520 --> 00:04:26,000 I remember right at the beginning of the year they had a light show 60 00:04:26,000 --> 00:04:28,000 on these three buildings, 61 00:04:28,000 --> 00:04:31,480 showing loads of different things throughout Hull's history, 62 00:04:31,480 --> 00:04:34,720 and I honestly actually felt quite emotional watching it. 63 00:04:34,720 --> 00:04:38,360 So, it has succeeded in making people think differently about Hull? 64 00:04:38,360 --> 00:04:40,640 I would say so. Yeah, I think so, yeah. 65 00:04:40,640 --> 00:04:44,880 I mean, I think it's changed the reputation quite a lot, actually. 66 00:04:44,880 --> 00:04:47,680 I'm pleased to hear it. Thank you so much. Thank you. Bye-bye. 67 00:04:51,960 --> 00:04:55,320 At the heart of Hull's history is its medieval harbour. 68 00:04:57,040 --> 00:05:00,120 By the time of my Bradshaw's, Edwardian travellers 69 00:05:00,120 --> 00:05:03,160 would have admired the more recent Alexandra Dock, 70 00:05:03,160 --> 00:05:06,800 named after their queen, where I'm meeting history writer, 71 00:05:06,800 --> 00:05:08,200 Robert Bell. 72 00:05:09,840 --> 00:05:13,720 Rob, there's clearly an enormous growth in the Hull port 73 00:05:13,720 --> 00:05:16,360 in the 19th century. What's driving it? 74 00:05:16,360 --> 00:05:18,400 The initial driver was wool. 75 00:05:18,400 --> 00:05:20,080 And, then, as we moved to the building 76 00:05:20,080 --> 00:05:21,760 of this particular dock in 1885, 77 00:05:21,760 --> 00:05:25,080 the Alexandra Dock, the big one's coal. 78 00:05:25,080 --> 00:05:28,880 But perhaps the most surprising money earner was actually migration. 79 00:05:28,880 --> 00:05:32,000 Hull was built on the money not of slavery, like Liverpool, 80 00:05:32,000 --> 00:05:34,400 Bristol and the like, but actually on migration. 81 00:05:36,040 --> 00:05:39,240 Migrants from Europe were attracted to land at Hull 82 00:05:39,240 --> 00:05:42,720 because of its particularly good railway connections 83 00:05:42,720 --> 00:05:46,480 that had originally been laid to transport goods and fish 84 00:05:46,480 --> 00:05:48,280 all over Great Britain. 85 00:05:48,280 --> 00:05:50,880 Two and a half million people, 86 00:05:50,880 --> 00:05:54,960 including impoverished Scandinavians in search of a better life, 87 00:05:54,960 --> 00:05:59,160 and Jews fleeing anti-Semitic persecution in Russia, 88 00:05:59,160 --> 00:06:00,840 passed through the port. 89 00:06:00,840 --> 00:06:04,040 From Hull, they took trains to Glasgow, Liverpool, 90 00:06:04,040 --> 00:06:06,160 London and Southampton, 91 00:06:06,160 --> 00:06:09,600 often to board steamships bound for the New World. 92 00:06:09,600 --> 00:06:12,800 Why, then, does the great port of Hull suffer a decline 93 00:06:12,800 --> 00:06:16,880 in the 20th century? My own view is that, actually, the First World War 94 00:06:16,880 --> 00:06:20,720 was something that Hull did not, actually, recover from. 95 00:06:20,720 --> 00:06:23,960 Because, ironically, in the run-up to the First World War, 96 00:06:23,960 --> 00:06:27,040 the one port that was dealing with the Germans 97 00:06:27,040 --> 00:06:31,240 and doing extremely well on their economy booming was Hull. 98 00:06:32,720 --> 00:06:35,360 The docks are now getting a second wind, 99 00:06:35,360 --> 00:06:40,240 with a £310 million joint investment from engineering company, 100 00:06:40,240 --> 00:06:43,320 Siemens, and Associated British Ports. 101 00:06:43,320 --> 00:06:47,040 The site's being transformed into a renewable energy factory. 102 00:06:47,040 --> 00:06:49,480 Andy Sykes is head of quality here. 103 00:06:49,480 --> 00:06:53,000 Andy, we're in the old Alexandra dock. How does all this relate? 104 00:06:53,000 --> 00:06:55,040 Some of the land has been reclaimed, 105 00:06:55,040 --> 00:06:57,680 some of the old dock is being used for the purposes of both 106 00:06:57,680 --> 00:07:00,400 inward transportation and also moving blades offshore. 107 00:07:00,400 --> 00:07:03,240 I've seen offshore wind turbine farms 108 00:07:03,240 --> 00:07:05,840 but without any idea of the scale. 109 00:07:05,840 --> 00:07:07,440 This is just one blade. 110 00:07:07,440 --> 00:07:10,880 What dimensions is this? This is a 75-metre long blade. 111 00:07:10,880 --> 00:07:13,920 So, if the blade is 75 metres, we must be talking about 112 00:07:13,920 --> 00:07:17,560 a tower of what? Yeah, it's roughly 90 metres standing above the ocean. 113 00:07:19,200 --> 00:07:22,480 Each giant blade weighs 28 tonnes 114 00:07:22,480 --> 00:07:27,520 and is longer than the wingspan of an Airbus A380 aircraft. 115 00:07:27,640 --> 00:07:31,200 And, at its base, wide enough to hold an elephant. 116 00:07:33,360 --> 00:07:36,960 Andy, to my surprise, the construction of this enormous thing 117 00:07:36,960 --> 00:07:39,040 is essentially a handmade process. 118 00:07:39,040 --> 00:07:41,240 Yeah, it really is craft based. 119 00:07:41,240 --> 00:07:44,600 It's made of fibreglass, balsa wood and epoxy resin. 120 00:07:44,600 --> 00:07:46,160 You can see the lower packing team 121 00:07:46,160 --> 00:07:49,160 down at the root end of the mould there, meticulously placing 122 00:07:49,160 --> 00:07:50,720 each piece of fibreglass 123 00:07:50,720 --> 00:07:53,960 to get the quality that we expect of the finished product. 124 00:07:53,960 --> 00:07:57,040 Could I introduce you to Dave, one of our packing team? 125 00:07:57,040 --> 00:07:59,040 Dave, I'm Michael. Hi, nice to meet you. 126 00:07:59,040 --> 00:08:00,840 How do you do? What are you doing there? 127 00:08:00,840 --> 00:08:03,440 I'm just making sure all the glass that we've laid previously 128 00:08:03,440 --> 00:08:04,920 is all nice and smooth. 129 00:08:04,920 --> 00:08:07,760 So, how are you able to work it, is the stuff hot? 130 00:08:07,760 --> 00:08:10,800 No, it's not hot, it's very much like carpeting. 131 00:08:10,800 --> 00:08:13,040 May I have a go at that? Of course, you can, yeah. 132 00:08:13,040 --> 00:08:15,640 We're making sure there's no wrinkles, up to the top, 133 00:08:15,640 --> 00:08:17,160 down to the bottom, 134 00:08:17,160 --> 00:08:19,240 making sure it's completely flat. 135 00:08:19,240 --> 00:08:23,840 So, making sure that it's nice and flat against the wall here. 136 00:08:23,840 --> 00:08:25,240 Yeah, and it follows the shape. 137 00:08:25,240 --> 00:08:27,440 Tucking it in, pushing all those... 138 00:08:27,440 --> 00:08:29,080 Yeah. ..wrinkles and bumps out. 139 00:08:29,080 --> 00:08:31,120 Quite a light pressure, yeah. 140 00:08:31,120 --> 00:08:32,320 That's it. 141 00:08:33,960 --> 00:08:35,600 There's quite a lot to do, isn't there? 142 00:08:35,600 --> 00:08:39,440 There's a lot to do, and we've still got at least another 143 00:08:39,440 --> 00:08:43,720 eight to 12 hours of work to get on with, so, yeah. Good luck. 144 00:08:43,720 --> 00:08:47,360 The precision applied to the production of the blades 145 00:08:47,360 --> 00:08:50,440 reflects the reliability expected from them. 146 00:08:50,440 --> 00:08:53,520 Each blade will last 25 years, 147 00:08:53,520 --> 00:08:56,120 performing tens of millions of rotations. 148 00:08:56,120 --> 00:09:00,000 Stepping inside one of these extraordinary wind turbine blades 149 00:09:00,000 --> 00:09:03,200 is another way of appreciating the scale. 150 00:09:03,200 --> 00:09:06,280 There's light entering from the outside 151 00:09:06,280 --> 00:09:09,480 and it seems to stretch away indefinitely, 152 00:09:09,480 --> 00:09:12,080 like an infinite railway tunnel. 153 00:09:12,080 --> 00:09:16,720 These things are a very far cry from windmills that we used to know. 154 00:09:20,720 --> 00:09:24,840 These blades will be shipped to a site off the East Yorkshire coast 155 00:09:24,840 --> 00:09:29,560 to form part of what will become the biggest wind farm in the world. 156 00:09:30,680 --> 00:09:35,720 174 turbines will generate 1.2 gigawatts, 157 00:09:35,720 --> 00:09:40,280 the equivalent of nearby Hartlepool Nuclear Power Station. 158 00:09:54,760 --> 00:09:58,480 I continue my journey with a short trip north-west of Hull, 159 00:09:58,480 --> 00:09:59,880 to the town of Cottingham. 160 00:10:01,840 --> 00:10:06,000 I noticed from my Bradshaw's that almost every ship 161 00:10:06,000 --> 00:10:09,680 sailing out of Hull is run by the Wilson Line, 162 00:10:09,680 --> 00:10:12,120 a company of which I had never heard. 163 00:10:12,120 --> 00:10:14,960 But it turns out that at the beginning of the 20th century 164 00:10:14,960 --> 00:10:19,400 it was, in fact, the world's largest privately owned shipping company. 165 00:10:19,400 --> 00:10:21,840 And this family of Hull entrepreneurs 166 00:10:21,840 --> 00:10:26,080 must have made a pile and, certainly, they built one. 167 00:10:42,560 --> 00:10:44,560 About four miles from Hull, 168 00:10:44,560 --> 00:10:48,440 Cottingham was first connected by rail in 1846. 169 00:10:48,440 --> 00:10:51,520 The Victorian middle class built their villas here, 170 00:10:51,520 --> 00:10:54,360 away from the industrial grime of the city. 171 00:10:59,240 --> 00:11:01,960 The grandest of them all was Tranby Croft. 172 00:11:03,480 --> 00:11:06,760 The house is now used by Hull Collegiate School. 173 00:11:06,760 --> 00:11:09,600 The Edwardian traveller would have known it 174 00:11:09,600 --> 00:11:11,640 in an entirely different guise. 175 00:11:11,640 --> 00:11:14,440 I'm meeting head of history, Claire Atkin. 176 00:11:17,120 --> 00:11:21,520 Claire, this is now Hull Collegiate School, but, in its time, 177 00:11:21,520 --> 00:11:23,200 the home of the Wilson family, 178 00:11:23,200 --> 00:11:26,440 of the Wilson Line Shipping Company fame, is that right? 179 00:11:26,440 --> 00:11:27,880 Yes, absolutely. 180 00:11:27,880 --> 00:11:31,840 This is the ancestral home of the Wilson family. 181 00:11:31,840 --> 00:11:34,800 This was built by Arthur Wilson and Mary Wilson. 182 00:11:34,800 --> 00:11:37,960 They were massive entrepreneurs in the city of Hull, 183 00:11:37,960 --> 00:11:40,280 and they wanted a mansion to entertain people. 184 00:11:40,280 --> 00:11:44,320 So, built Tranby Croft. It was completed in 1876. 185 00:11:44,320 --> 00:11:47,680 So, obviously, they had made their money in trade. Yes. 186 00:11:47,680 --> 00:11:49,800 Did that mean that they were excluded 187 00:11:49,800 --> 00:11:51,440 from aristocratic connections? 188 00:11:51,440 --> 00:11:53,880 They were absolutely desperate to go up in the world. 189 00:11:53,880 --> 00:11:56,680 Mary Wilson, particularly, is a social climber, 190 00:11:56,680 --> 00:12:00,360 and they were keen to try and woo the upper classes. 191 00:12:01,600 --> 00:12:05,880 In September 1890, the Wilsons' prayers were answered. 192 00:12:05,880 --> 00:12:11,040 The Prince of Wales, the future King Edward VII, stayed at Tranby Croft. 193 00:12:12,360 --> 00:12:16,200 Unfortunately for them, his visit brought trouble. 194 00:12:16,200 --> 00:12:19,200 He's already been associated with quite a few scandals, 195 00:12:19,200 --> 00:12:20,680 usually involving women, 196 00:12:20,680 --> 00:12:23,760 but at Tranby Croft it's something a little bit different. 197 00:12:23,760 --> 00:12:27,480 It's the temptation to play a card game, which is illegal, 198 00:12:27,480 --> 00:12:28,960 a baccarat game. 199 00:12:32,040 --> 00:12:37,120 In 1886, baccarat had been made illegal, if played for money. 200 00:12:38,200 --> 00:12:41,000 Although fortunes could be lost in a single night, 201 00:12:41,000 --> 00:12:45,720 it didn't stop the aristocracy from playing behind closed doors. 202 00:12:47,680 --> 00:12:50,800 So, Claire, their house has been quite well preserved. 203 00:12:50,800 --> 00:12:52,800 They did live a grand life, didn't they? 204 00:12:52,800 --> 00:12:55,920 Yes, they absolutely did. Tell me about the game of baccarat. 205 00:12:55,920 --> 00:12:59,080 What goes wrong? Well, the Prince and some of his friends 206 00:12:59,080 --> 00:13:01,880 are really rather addicted to playing cards 207 00:13:01,880 --> 00:13:04,120 and they liked to gamble. 208 00:13:04,120 --> 00:13:06,280 And the first night that they're staying here, 209 00:13:06,280 --> 00:13:08,160 one of the gentlemen who's playing, 210 00:13:08,160 --> 00:13:11,080 a decorated military man, Sir William Gordon-Cumming, 211 00:13:11,080 --> 00:13:14,360 is seemingly adding £5 counters 212 00:13:14,360 --> 00:13:19,200 every now and then to his stake and the Wilsons become suspicious. 213 00:13:19,200 --> 00:13:21,520 The following day, they have a seating plan 214 00:13:21,520 --> 00:13:24,120 so that no matter where Sir Gordon-Cumming sits, 215 00:13:24,120 --> 00:13:26,920 he'll actually be sitting next to a member of the Wilson family 216 00:13:26,920 --> 00:13:29,640 so they can see if there's any more of this suspicious 217 00:13:29,640 --> 00:13:31,760 cheating going on. Is there? Definitely. 218 00:13:33,960 --> 00:13:36,520 The press got wind of the scandal. 219 00:13:36,520 --> 00:13:40,080 Reputations were at stake and a court case ensued. 220 00:13:42,480 --> 00:13:45,160 For the first time in 500 years, 221 00:13:45,160 --> 00:13:48,800 a British heir to the throne was called onto the witness stand. 222 00:13:50,600 --> 00:13:53,360 The future King, or "Bertie" as he was known, 223 00:13:53,360 --> 00:13:55,320 was a most reluctant witness. 224 00:13:56,360 --> 00:13:59,960 But the evidence against his friend Gordon-Cumming was convincing. 225 00:14:02,640 --> 00:14:04,600 Bertie suffers, certainly. 226 00:14:04,600 --> 00:14:07,240 The Wilson family definitely suffer. 227 00:14:07,240 --> 00:14:09,960 Mary Wilson must have just been in tatters. 228 00:14:09,960 --> 00:14:12,120 That's the end of her social climbing. 229 00:14:12,120 --> 00:14:14,240 And Gordon-Cumming is court-martialled, 230 00:14:14,240 --> 00:14:17,200 dismissed from the Army for ungentlemanly behaviour. 231 00:14:17,200 --> 00:14:19,920 He has to break off a wedding engagement, 232 00:14:19,920 --> 00:14:23,880 and he disappears effectively from society and is ostracised. 233 00:14:25,160 --> 00:14:28,040 Strictly in the cause of research, 234 00:14:28,040 --> 00:14:31,880 Claire has organised for me to try my hand at playing baccarat, 235 00:14:31,880 --> 00:14:34,560 in the room where it all happened. 236 00:14:34,560 --> 00:14:37,800 My fellow players are all staff at Hull Collegiate School. 237 00:14:37,800 --> 00:14:41,240 And Joanna Dunn is croupier for the occasion. 238 00:14:41,240 --> 00:14:43,920 The only problem is I don't know how to play. 239 00:14:43,920 --> 00:14:46,080 We can teach you. Please do. 240 00:14:46,080 --> 00:14:48,360 OK, it's a very simple game. 241 00:14:48,360 --> 00:14:52,800 It's a game of chance, there's no skill involved whatsoever. 242 00:14:52,800 --> 00:14:55,280 Perfect. So, you just have to bet 243 00:14:55,280 --> 00:14:58,680 on whether you want the player's cards to win, 244 00:14:58,680 --> 00:15:01,800 the banker's cards to win, or a tie. 245 00:15:01,800 --> 00:15:06,840 And it is two cards closest to nine that would win that deal. 246 00:15:06,840 --> 00:15:10,080 So, we have the player's card on this side, 247 00:15:10,080 --> 00:15:11,760 the banker's card on this side. 248 00:15:11,760 --> 00:15:13,640 Place your bets, ladies and gentlemen. 249 00:15:13,640 --> 00:15:15,920 Do you want the player's card, the banker's card 250 00:15:15,920 --> 00:15:18,120 or place for a tie in the middle, please. 251 00:15:19,200 --> 00:15:20,840 I think this one's going to win. 252 00:15:20,840 --> 00:15:25,200 OK. So, on the player's card, we have nine, so that will stand, 253 00:15:25,200 --> 00:15:28,280 that is a natural. On this side, it looks like we have 14 254 00:15:28,280 --> 00:15:30,480 but we always knock off the first digit 255 00:15:30,480 --> 00:15:32,440 so it's actually a four on this side. 256 00:15:32,440 --> 00:15:34,040 So, player wins. 257 00:15:34,040 --> 00:15:37,040 People that bet on the players, then you would double your money. 258 00:15:37,040 --> 00:15:38,720 Hee-hee! 259 00:15:38,720 --> 00:15:40,680 Oh, let's play again! 260 00:15:40,680 --> 00:15:42,400 LAUGHTER 261 00:15:44,120 --> 00:15:46,880 Having won, I see how the Prince of Wales 262 00:15:46,880 --> 00:15:49,680 might have found the game attractive. 263 00:15:49,680 --> 00:15:53,800 I expect to dream tonight of high society and winning hands. 264 00:16:14,000 --> 00:16:17,880 I start the new day by heading due north to reach the coast. 265 00:16:19,480 --> 00:16:20,800 Tickets, please. 266 00:16:22,760 --> 00:16:25,440 There we go. Good morning. 267 00:16:25,440 --> 00:16:27,840 Good to see you. How long have you been on the railway? 268 00:16:29,360 --> 00:16:31,560 51 years and six months. 269 00:16:31,560 --> 00:16:33,680 Wow! Is that a record? It probably is a record. 270 00:16:33,680 --> 00:16:35,800 They're calling a man who works in Doncaster 271 00:16:35,800 --> 00:16:38,080 who's got, I think, three months ahead of me. 272 00:16:38,080 --> 00:16:42,520 So I'm just hoping that, at some stage, I can beat him. 273 00:16:42,520 --> 00:16:46,960 Outlast him. Yeah. Well, a real privilege, thank you. 274 00:16:46,960 --> 00:16:48,320 Privilege, thank you. 275 00:16:55,680 --> 00:16:58,960 My next stop will be Scarborough, which, according to the guide book, 276 00:16:58,960 --> 00:17:03,440 "has been an aristocratic resort for more than a century. 277 00:17:03,440 --> 00:17:05,880 "The spa buildings are very handsome, 278 00:17:05,880 --> 00:17:09,880 "containing theatre, picture gallery, promenade, etc, 279 00:17:09,880 --> 00:17:12,160 "with excellent orchestra. 280 00:17:12,160 --> 00:17:16,040 "The cliffs overlooking the South Bay are impressive in grandeur, 281 00:17:16,040 --> 00:17:20,280 "terminating in the promontory of Scarborough Castle." 282 00:17:20,280 --> 00:17:23,560 Now, that was published in 1913. 283 00:17:23,560 --> 00:17:28,400 What could possibly interrupt the tranquillity of this holiday spot? 284 00:17:43,240 --> 00:17:46,960 In its history, Scarborough has been invaded by Anglo-Saxons 285 00:17:46,960 --> 00:17:49,320 and raided by Vikings. 286 00:17:49,320 --> 00:17:53,880 Its 12th-century castle was besieged during the English Civil War, 287 00:17:53,880 --> 00:17:57,000 and used in defence during the Jacobite rebellion 288 00:17:57,000 --> 00:17:59,480 and the wars against Napoleon. 289 00:18:01,040 --> 00:18:02,760 By the time of my Bradshaw's, 290 00:18:02,760 --> 00:18:06,400 Edwardian travellers would have found a peaceful holiday resort. 291 00:18:06,400 --> 00:18:10,240 But, before long, Scarborough became a casualty once more. 292 00:18:12,120 --> 00:18:16,480 Mark Vesey, chairman of the Scarborough Maritime Heritage Centre, 293 00:18:16,480 --> 00:18:18,080 can shed light on the period. 294 00:18:19,520 --> 00:18:22,240 Mark, I've always had a soft spot for Scarborough 295 00:18:22,240 --> 00:18:24,080 with its fantastic topography. 296 00:18:24,080 --> 00:18:27,120 What was the place like just before the First World War? 297 00:18:27,120 --> 00:18:30,080 It was doing very well. It was a busy resort. 298 00:18:30,080 --> 00:18:31,760 A lot of people came at the weekends, 299 00:18:31,760 --> 00:18:33,520 they were bathing and paddling, 300 00:18:33,520 --> 00:18:37,080 having an ice cream, having a beer, similar to what we do today. 301 00:18:37,080 --> 00:18:40,000 My Bradshaw's says, rather surprisingly, perhaps, 302 00:18:40,000 --> 00:18:43,160 that it had been an aristocratic resort for a century. 303 00:18:43,160 --> 00:18:45,200 What do you make of that? Yes, I think it was. 304 00:18:45,200 --> 00:18:47,800 The South Cliff was a very aristocratic area, 305 00:18:47,800 --> 00:18:49,680 more expensive hotels. 306 00:18:49,680 --> 00:18:53,320 But, when the railways arrived, it did become more for the masses. 307 00:18:53,320 --> 00:18:57,840 And what was it that interrupted the tranquillity of this idyllic spot? 308 00:18:57,840 --> 00:19:03,040 Well, the 16th of December 1914, eight o'clock in the morning, 309 00:19:03,200 --> 00:19:06,320 a bit of a misty day, there was a rumble in the air, 310 00:19:06,320 --> 00:19:08,800 people thought it might be thunder but it wasn't. 311 00:19:08,800 --> 00:19:11,040 It was the shells from the German Navy. 312 00:19:13,320 --> 00:19:16,120 Less than five months into the First World War, 313 00:19:16,120 --> 00:19:20,120 a British blockade of Germany's ports prevented its navy 314 00:19:20,120 --> 00:19:22,240 from accessing the North Sea. 315 00:19:23,400 --> 00:19:26,680 Frustrated, it found a gap in the minefields 316 00:19:26,680 --> 00:19:31,680 intended for fishing vessels and struck England's north-east coast. 317 00:19:31,680 --> 00:19:34,160 Scarborough was an easy target. 318 00:19:34,160 --> 00:19:36,840 Mark, we have a good view of Scarborough here. 319 00:19:36,840 --> 00:19:38,920 What was doing the shelling? 320 00:19:38,920 --> 00:19:42,000 It was two of the biggest battle cruisers the German navy had, 321 00:19:42,000 --> 00:19:44,520 the Derfflinger and the Von der Tann. 322 00:19:44,520 --> 00:19:48,360 And what munitions did the battle cruisers throw at Scarborough? 323 00:19:48,360 --> 00:19:53,560 Mostly six inch shells, over 770 of them in 30 minutes. 324 00:19:54,080 --> 00:19:57,080 The first pass was along the seafront. 325 00:19:57,080 --> 00:19:59,840 Then the German battle cruisers turned around 326 00:19:59,840 --> 00:20:03,640 and fired further into the town so more of the centre of the town 327 00:20:03,640 --> 00:20:05,880 was hit on the pass, on the way back. 328 00:20:05,880 --> 00:20:08,120 That's an extraordinary level of attack. 329 00:20:08,120 --> 00:20:10,480 How much damage did that create in Scarborough? 330 00:20:10,480 --> 00:20:12,320 It did do a lot of damage, Michael. 331 00:20:12,320 --> 00:20:14,960 And, sadly, 18 people were killed. 332 00:20:17,840 --> 00:20:20,240 In addition to those who lost their lives, 333 00:20:20,240 --> 00:20:22,120 over 100 people were injured. 334 00:20:23,920 --> 00:20:26,600 And some of the most iconic buildings in Scarborough 335 00:20:26,600 --> 00:20:27,760 were damaged. 336 00:20:29,520 --> 00:20:33,320 What was the reaction of the British public to this attack? 337 00:20:33,320 --> 00:20:36,120 Well, anger, at first, and shock. 338 00:20:36,120 --> 00:20:38,720 I think people thought it could've been an invasion. 339 00:20:38,720 --> 00:20:42,480 And we think the Germans really did it to try and shock the British 340 00:20:42,480 --> 00:20:44,240 into keeping troops at home 341 00:20:44,240 --> 00:20:47,080 instead of sending them to go and fight in France. 342 00:20:48,720 --> 00:20:51,560 The German attack was counterproductive. 343 00:20:51,560 --> 00:20:54,720 Photographs of the damage to this beautiful town 344 00:20:54,720 --> 00:20:56,640 angered the British public. 345 00:20:56,640 --> 00:20:59,080 Postcards of the atrocities circulated 346 00:20:59,080 --> 00:21:02,320 and young men rushed to join Pals battalions 347 00:21:02,320 --> 00:21:05,200 to fight alongside their friends and relatives, 348 00:21:05,200 --> 00:21:08,760 encouraged by propaganda urging loyal citizens 349 00:21:08,760 --> 00:21:11,040 to remember Scarborough. 350 00:21:13,160 --> 00:21:16,080 Today, it feels apt, once more, to remember. 351 00:21:19,800 --> 00:21:22,240 In Scarborough's very beautiful The Crescent, 352 00:21:22,240 --> 00:21:25,520 some of the houses are still peppered with the shrapnel 353 00:21:25,520 --> 00:21:28,120 of December 1914. 354 00:21:28,120 --> 00:21:32,560 This population was one of the first civilian populations in the world 355 00:21:32,560 --> 00:21:35,640 to be subjected to a terror bombardment. 356 00:21:35,640 --> 00:21:38,360 During the course of the 20th century, 357 00:21:38,360 --> 00:21:41,240 they would be joined by many millions of others, 358 00:21:41,240 --> 00:21:46,160 and, of those, countless numbers would be slaughtered in their homes. 359 00:22:04,480 --> 00:22:08,880 I'm on my way to one of Britain's great stately homes, Castle Howard. 360 00:22:08,880 --> 00:22:12,080 I'm impressed that it was designed by Sir John Vanbrugh, 361 00:22:12,080 --> 00:22:14,840 that it has 145 rooms, 362 00:22:14,840 --> 00:22:17,680 that it's twice been used for adaptations 363 00:22:17,680 --> 00:22:20,680 of Evelyn Waugh's Brideshead Revisited, 364 00:22:20,680 --> 00:22:22,560 but my Bradshaw's reveals 365 00:22:22,560 --> 00:22:25,600 that it used to have its own railway station. 366 00:22:25,600 --> 00:22:27,880 Now that has caught my attention. 367 00:22:31,720 --> 00:22:35,080 PA: We will shortly be arriving at Malton. 368 00:22:35,080 --> 00:22:38,160 Today, I'm alighting at the market town of Malton. 369 00:22:42,600 --> 00:22:47,320 Castle Howard's station ceased to handle passengers in 1930, 370 00:22:47,320 --> 00:22:52,160 but it was in service when Queen Victoria visited the castle in 1850. 371 00:23:06,000 --> 00:23:09,040 Castle Howard's impressive Baroque architecture 372 00:23:09,040 --> 00:23:11,720 was conceived by Sir John Vanbrugh, 373 00:23:11,720 --> 00:23:14,600 who is also responsible for Blenheim Palace. 374 00:23:14,600 --> 00:23:19,000 This magnificent estate includes rose gardens, 375 00:23:19,000 --> 00:23:21,280 follies, 13 farms, 376 00:23:21,280 --> 00:23:23,480 and 10,000 acres of land. 377 00:23:24,720 --> 00:23:28,560 It took over 100 years and three generations of earls 378 00:23:28,560 --> 00:23:30,360 before it was complete. 379 00:23:30,360 --> 00:23:32,200 At the time of my Bradshaw's, 380 00:23:32,200 --> 00:23:35,880 this was home to a fascinating figure in the campaign 381 00:23:35,880 --> 00:23:38,760 for women's suffrage, which was gathering momentum 382 00:23:38,760 --> 00:23:41,360 at the beginning of the 20th century. 383 00:23:41,360 --> 00:23:44,600 Archivist Anna Louise Mason knows more. 384 00:23:44,600 --> 00:23:47,840 Anna Louise, I've come in pursuit of a radical Countess, 385 00:23:47,840 --> 00:23:50,880 who I believe was the lady of Castle Howard in the Edwardian era. 386 00:23:50,880 --> 00:23:53,800 Who was she? That's right, you're referring to Rosalind Howard. 387 00:23:53,800 --> 00:23:57,200 She was married to George Howard, the 9th Earl of Carlisle, 388 00:23:57,200 --> 00:24:00,440 and together they raised a family of 11 children. 389 00:24:00,440 --> 00:24:03,880 She actually managed the estates on behalf of her husband. 390 00:24:03,880 --> 00:24:06,560 He was an artist and he wasn't really interested 391 00:24:06,560 --> 00:24:08,600 in doing the typical earl duties. 392 00:24:08,600 --> 00:24:11,240 There's a wonderful saying where she says, 393 00:24:11,240 --> 00:24:13,600 "Worry kills, work does one good." 394 00:24:13,600 --> 00:24:15,480 What made her radical? 395 00:24:15,480 --> 00:24:20,160 Well, she did repeatedly show sympathy for striking workers. 396 00:24:20,160 --> 00:24:25,200 In 1891, it was Scottish railway men, and in 1893, it was miners. 397 00:24:25,360 --> 00:24:27,800 But her main passions were temperance 398 00:24:27,800 --> 00:24:29,600 and also women's suffrage. 399 00:24:32,720 --> 00:24:35,800 Rosalind Howard had had a political upbringing. 400 00:24:35,800 --> 00:24:38,640 Her mother was a women's education campaigner 401 00:24:38,640 --> 00:24:41,440 and her father served as a member of Parliament. 402 00:24:46,160 --> 00:24:50,120 She used Castle Howard to put into practice her political convictions. 403 00:24:50,120 --> 00:24:53,360 In her campaign against alcohol consumption, 404 00:24:53,360 --> 00:24:56,000 she revoked the licence for the estate's pub, 405 00:24:56,000 --> 00:24:58,760 turning it into a temperance guesthouse for women. 406 00:25:00,400 --> 00:25:03,200 She was famous for her temperance. She certainly was. 407 00:25:03,200 --> 00:25:07,280 Yes, she was. In fact, there's one of the most famous anecdotes 408 00:25:07,280 --> 00:25:11,240 at Castle Howard is the story of when Rosalind, the Countess, 409 00:25:11,240 --> 00:25:14,000 threw all the wine into a hole in the ground. 410 00:25:14,000 --> 00:25:17,200 And this was actually reported in the press, 411 00:25:17,200 --> 00:25:21,080 where she was accused of having destroyed 1,500 bottles 412 00:25:21,080 --> 00:25:23,000 of perfectly good wine. 413 00:25:23,000 --> 00:25:26,600 Now, Rosalind was very quick to respond to this. 414 00:25:26,600 --> 00:25:29,840 "The so-called wine in the 800 bottles 415 00:25:29,840 --> 00:25:32,480 "that have been thrown away was sour stuff, 416 00:25:32,480 --> 00:25:34,920 "condemned as worthless and undrinkable. 417 00:25:34,920 --> 00:25:39,560 "Not even a dipsomaniac under the influence of his worst drink craving 418 00:25:39,560 --> 00:25:43,760 "would have touched this mixture of fungus and smelly liquid." 419 00:25:43,760 --> 00:25:47,120 That gives us a feel for the woman, doesn't it? 420 00:25:47,120 --> 00:25:49,120 She had a way with words. That's superb. Yes. 421 00:25:49,120 --> 00:25:51,000 How would you summarise her? 422 00:25:51,000 --> 00:25:53,480 The Times, when she died in 1921, 423 00:25:53,480 --> 00:25:57,280 headed her obituary with "A fearless champion of causes," 424 00:25:57,280 --> 00:25:59,720 and that's how I like to think of her. 425 00:25:59,720 --> 00:26:02,640 And however you view the Countess Rosalind, 426 00:26:02,640 --> 00:26:05,440 she's an important figure in the history of Castle Howard. 427 00:26:05,440 --> 00:26:06,880 Absolutely. 428 00:26:06,880 --> 00:26:10,400 Castle Howard has remained in the hands of the Howard family 429 00:26:10,400 --> 00:26:14,640 throughout its history. And, today, Rosalind Howard's direct descendent, 430 00:26:14,640 --> 00:26:18,160 the Honourable Nicholas Howard, still lives here. 431 00:26:18,160 --> 00:26:23,200 I've come to find out what it means to call this stunning place home. 432 00:26:24,280 --> 00:26:26,920 Nick, how wonderful to see you. How nice to meet you, Michael. 433 00:26:26,920 --> 00:26:29,160 And here we are in the wonderful Long Gallery, 434 00:26:29,160 --> 00:26:31,760 one of the finest rooms, I suppose, in Castle Howard. 435 00:26:31,760 --> 00:26:34,520 Now, what on earth was it like to grow up in a place like this? 436 00:26:34,520 --> 00:26:37,720 Well, of course, at the beginning, I didn't know anything else. 437 00:26:37,720 --> 00:26:39,080 But, as I became older, 438 00:26:39,080 --> 00:26:41,320 I became more and more aware of how special it is. 439 00:26:41,320 --> 00:26:44,080 But, I mean, in this room, we used to race up and down, 440 00:26:44,080 --> 00:26:47,720 we had some ornamental wheelbarrows, and my brother and I used to 441 00:26:47,720 --> 00:26:49,960 push each other up and down the room in it. 442 00:26:49,960 --> 00:26:53,120 And, now, you are responsible for Castle Howard. 443 00:26:53,120 --> 00:26:55,720 It's a responsibility that I'm so happy to be doing, 444 00:26:55,720 --> 00:26:57,040 and even excited at times. 445 00:26:57,040 --> 00:26:58,800 It is a gorgeous place to be. 446 00:26:58,800 --> 00:27:01,440 Do you see visitors being amazed by what they see? 447 00:27:01,440 --> 00:27:05,200 Oh, I think so. I do see people in various states of amazement. 448 00:27:05,200 --> 00:27:08,720 There is a sense of wonder and awe as people approach down the drive. 449 00:27:08,720 --> 00:27:11,160 Well, count me in on that. 450 00:27:19,920 --> 00:27:23,800 The commitment of the radical Countess of Castle Howard 451 00:27:23,800 --> 00:27:26,720 to women's suffrage and striking railway men 452 00:27:26,720 --> 00:27:30,480 gives an idea of the turbulence of the Edwardian years. 453 00:27:30,480 --> 00:27:33,640 Those political causes had to be set aside 454 00:27:33,640 --> 00:27:35,960 for the duration of the Great War, 455 00:27:35,960 --> 00:27:39,960 which had an enormous impact on the north-east of England. 456 00:27:39,960 --> 00:27:42,480 It dealt a massive blow to the port of Hull, 457 00:27:42,480 --> 00:27:46,720 while Scarborough and other coastal towns were shelled. 458 00:27:46,720 --> 00:27:51,480 Meanwhile, North Eastern Railway workers had set out for the front 459 00:27:51,480 --> 00:27:55,720 in Pals battalions to get the British war effort moving. 460 00:27:57,840 --> 00:28:02,160 Next time, I do important research in an historic tearoom. 461 00:28:02,160 --> 00:28:05,200 What shall we have? We should order some tea and some dainty cakes. 462 00:28:05,200 --> 00:28:06,640 And some scones? Absolutely. 463 00:28:06,640 --> 00:28:08,880 I get dressed down in Leeds. 464 00:28:08,880 --> 00:28:11,720 How am I looking, Sir? Um... Gary, be truthful. 465 00:28:11,720 --> 00:28:15,200 I would suggest you're wearing that slightly a bit tight, 466 00:28:15,200 --> 00:28:19,040 especially around here. It's the size of my wallet, Gary. Yeah. 467 00:28:19,040 --> 00:28:20,360 LAUGHTER 468 00:28:20,360 --> 00:28:23,160 And attend a private Edwardian concert. 469 00:28:23,160 --> 00:28:28,160 HE SINGS