1 00:00:13,270 --> 00:00:17,689 there are almost 200 official countries 2 00:00:16,040 --> 00:00:20,000 in the world today but there are dozens 3 00:00:17,690 --> 00:00:21,920 more breakaway states determined to be 4 00:00:20,000 --> 00:00:24,170 separate but officially not recognized 5 00:00:21,920 --> 00:00:26,660 some survive peacefully with their own 6 00:00:24,170 --> 00:00:28,430 borders money and presidents but others 7 00:00:26,660 --> 00:00:30,320 are a magnet for terrorists and weapons 8 00:00:28,430 --> 00:00:31,870 smuggling and have armies ready for a 9 00:00:30,320 --> 00:00:36,489 fight 10 00:00:31,870 --> 00:00:36,489 welcome to places that don't exist 11 00:01:03,170 --> 00:01:08,940 100 years ago Muslim Azerbaijan used to 12 00:01:06,150 --> 00:01:10,650 supply half the world's oil in recent 13 00:01:08,940 --> 00:01:13,770 years Western oil firms have invested 14 00:01:10,650 --> 00:01:16,460 vast sums here but officially Azerbaijan 15 00:01:13,770 --> 00:01:18,780 is still at war with neighboring Armenia 16 00:01:16,460 --> 00:01:21,380 my guide to route took me to see the 17 00:01:18,780 --> 00:01:21,380 frontline 18 00:01:25,399 --> 00:01:29,850 when the Soviet Union broke up 19 00:01:27,829 --> 00:01:31,919 Azerbaijan and Armenia got their 20 00:01:29,850 --> 00:01:33,720 independence but a small mountainous 21 00:01:31,920 --> 00:01:36,299 area called nagorno-karabakh triggered 22 00:01:33,720 --> 00:01:38,460 war Stalin had given it to Azerbaijan 23 00:01:36,299 --> 00:01:40,439 but historically it would be mainly 24 00:01:38,460 --> 00:01:42,298 Armenian Christian so when it wanted to 25 00:01:40,439 --> 00:01:44,158 break away and become independent 26 00:01:42,299 --> 00:01:46,799 Armenia sent troops in and helped the 27 00:01:44,159 --> 00:01:48,990 Karabakh army push these areas out go 28 00:01:46,799 --> 00:01:54,049 out towards the hills here which 29 00:01:48,990 --> 00:01:54,048 overlooked the frontline positions laid 30 00:01:54,289 --> 00:01:58,830 ahead with the frontline trenches 31 00:01:56,789 --> 00:02:04,170 between Azerbaijan and the breakaway 32 00:01:58,830 --> 00:02:05,459 state of nagorno-karabakh get from here 33 00:02:04,170 --> 00:02:07,580 to this trench we've gotta cross some 34 00:02:05,459 --> 00:02:16,080 open ground so we're going to do it a 35 00:02:07,580 --> 00:02:18,450 little bit quickly the frontline here is 36 00:02:16,080 --> 00:02:20,040 still very dangerous it's been people 37 00:02:18,450 --> 00:02:28,410 killed regularly in there was a guy 38 00:02:20,040 --> 00:02:30,120 killed here just last weekend the 39 00:02:28,410 --> 00:02:33,680 biggest threat here is from snipers 40 00:02:30,120 --> 00:02:33,680 firing from the gore no Karabakh 41 00:02:37,530 --> 00:02:43,980 a sniper could shoot you here within 42 00:02:41,370 --> 00:02:45,900 range okay maybe I'll come down a bit 43 00:02:43,980 --> 00:02:47,850 then could you come I feel really here 44 00:02:45,900 --> 00:02:51,470 yes what about one and a half kilometers 45 00:02:47,850 --> 00:02:51,470 away so a sniper could reach us easily 46 00:02:51,890 --> 00:02:56,458 Terrell's family come from land now 47 00:02:54,180 --> 00:02:57,840 occupied by care about soldiers they 48 00:02:56,459 --> 00:03:00,180 were forced to leave when the conflict 49 00:02:57,840 --> 00:03:04,130 started in the late eighties how do you 50 00:03:00,180 --> 00:03:04,130 feel being so close to the front line I 51 00:03:05,239 --> 00:03:13,920 feel our temptation here being so close 52 00:03:11,519 --> 00:03:17,970 to my native land the sense of revenge 53 00:03:13,920 --> 00:03:22,859 is growing in me a desire for vengeance 54 00:03:17,970 --> 00:03:27,269 I have a desire to get my land back by 55 00:03:22,860 --> 00:03:29,280 any means and if a warfare is one of the 56 00:03:27,269 --> 00:03:32,069 powerful means is one of the real means 57 00:03:29,280 --> 00:03:34,380 to get that land back I'm completely 58 00:03:32,069 --> 00:03:40,319 ready to fight for the freedom of my 59 00:03:34,380 --> 00:03:43,940 homeland we left the frontline and 60 00:03:40,319 --> 00:03:43,940 headed back into Azerbaijan 61 00:03:52,620 --> 00:03:58,110 we're just stopped at the kebab shop by 62 00:03:54,790 --> 00:04:00,670 the side of the road and it's run by 63 00:03:58,110 --> 00:04:02,530 some men from originally from the runner 64 00:04:00,670 --> 00:04:08,738 Karabakh and hopefully they're going to 65 00:04:02,530 --> 00:04:11,020 feed us Salam alekum the owners of the 66 00:04:08,739 --> 00:04:13,569 restaurant were refugees forced to flee 67 00:04:11,020 --> 00:04:17,340 their homeland a decade ago they said 68 00:04:13,569 --> 00:04:17,339 they'd witnessed Armenian atrocities 69 00:04:17,459 --> 00:04:25,150 what smells good it's a good sign can 70 00:04:24,010 --> 00:04:27,610 you give me some examples of what you 71 00:04:25,150 --> 00:04:31,870 claim the Armenians were doing to the as 72 00:04:27,610 --> 00:04:33,610 Ares living in nagorno-karabakh they put 73 00:04:31,870 --> 00:04:35,860 children women and elderly people 74 00:04:33,610 --> 00:04:38,169 together inside a pipe and welded it 75 00:04:35,860 --> 00:04:41,380 then they rolled those pipe down from 76 00:04:38,169 --> 00:04:43,450 the mountains we've seen many savage 77 00:04:41,380 --> 00:04:45,490 actions by the army needs we've seen 78 00:04:43,450 --> 00:04:47,469 everything with our own eyes what kind 79 00:04:45,490 --> 00:04:49,389 of torture our sisters our daughters our 80 00:04:47,470 --> 00:04:51,520 mothers will pull through I can't 81 00:04:49,389 --> 00:04:53,410 describe it or it makes me angry and I 82 00:04:51,520 --> 00:04:58,479 want to explode we've seen them being 83 00:04:53,410 --> 00:05:04,570 beheaded then they certainly asked us to 84 00:04:58,479 --> 00:05:06,750 stop filming we chatted to the owners of 85 00:05:04,570 --> 00:05:10,630 the kebab shop for a little bit but then 86 00:05:06,750 --> 00:05:12,460 they got a bit nervous and so they said 87 00:05:10,630 --> 00:05:14,979 well you gonna have some food because 88 00:05:12,460 --> 00:05:17,890 they felt a bit tense talking to us 89 00:05:14,979 --> 00:05:20,530 there's a lot of concern even amongst 90 00:05:17,890 --> 00:05:21,909 refugees about talking about LaVon Oh 91 00:05:20,530 --> 00:05:24,549 Kara back because it's such a 92 00:05:21,910 --> 00:05:26,200 contentious issue even now 110 years 93 00:05:24,550 --> 00:05:28,530 after the conflict is supposed to have 94 00:05:26,200 --> 00:05:28,530 ended 95 00:05:33,270 --> 00:05:37,359 it turns out the owners of the 96 00:05:35,410 --> 00:05:39,010 restaurant weren't quite as worried 97 00:05:37,360 --> 00:05:40,810 about the political nature of the 98 00:05:39,010 --> 00:05:42,730 questions we were asking what they're 99 00:05:40,810 --> 00:05:44,860 actually worried about was because 100 00:05:42,730 --> 00:05:49,030 several years ago this place used to be 101 00:05:44,860 --> 00:05:52,150 a cafe / brothel almost and there was a 102 00:05:49,030 --> 00:05:54,130 news report on a very TV revealing this 103 00:05:52,150 --> 00:05:55,630 and then we turned up with our cameras 104 00:05:54,130 --> 00:05:59,530 and they started to wonder if we were 105 00:05:55,630 --> 00:06:10,120 doing the same thing I've got here some 106 00:05:59,530 --> 00:06:12,270 lamb and also some natural Yola I might 107 00:06:10,120 --> 00:06:12,270 leave 108 00:06:19,850 --> 00:06:22,900 ready the hosta 109 00:06:26,340 --> 00:06:31,320 thank you very much for the performance 110 00:06:28,500 --> 00:06:32,850 it was very unexpected do you know any 111 00:06:31,320 --> 00:06:36,270 songs about Kara back about 112 00:06:32,850 --> 00:06:38,520 nagorno-karabakh farrakhan there are 113 00:06:36,270 --> 00:06:41,250 many songs about Kalibak Kalibak ease 114 00:06:38,520 --> 00:06:42,840 our heart our land I promised myself not 115 00:06:41,250 --> 00:06:45,480 to sing about Karabakh until we were 116 00:06:42,840 --> 00:06:47,250 returned to that land we can't sing 117 00:06:45,480 --> 00:06:49,500 songs about cholera because when you 118 00:06:47,250 --> 00:06:54,419 sing about cataract tears come to your 119 00:06:49,500 --> 00:06:56,610 eyes your heart aches I promise myself 120 00:06:54,419 --> 00:07:05,460 to sing a song on the day we return to 121 00:06:56,610 --> 00:07:06,960 our land almost all these areas living 122 00:07:05,460 --> 00:07:09,000 on the corner Karabakh were forced to 123 00:07:06,960 --> 00:07:11,120 leave during the war and found shelter 124 00:07:09,000 --> 00:07:14,790 wherever they could in Azerbaijan 125 00:07:11,120 --> 00:07:17,160 there's between 750,000 and perhaps a 126 00:07:14,790 --> 00:07:18,960 million people in Azerbaijan who are 127 00:07:17,160 --> 00:07:21,210 refugees from the nagorno-karabakh 128 00:07:18,960 --> 00:07:23,729 conflict and we've come here to some 129 00:07:21,210 --> 00:07:26,750 railway sidings where there's dozens of 130 00:07:23,729 --> 00:07:28,979 families living in railway carriages 131 00:07:26,750 --> 00:07:30,870 what are the conditions like for you 132 00:07:28,979 --> 00:07:34,280 here I'll go check them d-block with it 133 00:07:30,870 --> 00:07:38,669 what are you there's no electricity sure 134 00:07:34,280 --> 00:07:40,669 there's no water visit there's no 135 00:07:38,669 --> 00:07:42,770 heejun's object 136 00:07:40,670 --> 00:07:45,490 their children's voices coming from 137 00:07:42,770 --> 00:07:45,490 these colleges 138 00:07:49,540 --> 00:07:54,220 here it's a school one of the school 139 00:07:57,760 --> 00:08:02,780 children study here and unheated railway 140 00:08:00,650 --> 00:08:06,169 carriages with hardly any equipment or 141 00:08:02,780 --> 00:08:09,229 books how long have you been living here 142 00:08:06,170 --> 00:08:12,650 dr. Nugent out on my couch we came from 143 00:08:09,230 --> 00:08:16,190 AG dam in 1993 this video I'm she do you 144 00:08:12,650 --> 00:08:18,909 remember leaving nagorno-karabakh does 145 00:08:16,190 --> 00:08:21,530 anybody here remember nagorno-karabakh 146 00:08:18,910 --> 00:08:23,950 nobody does everybody's grown up here 147 00:08:21,530 --> 00:08:26,179 right barley leaves right away carriages 148 00:08:23,950 --> 00:08:28,340 the younger generation might not 149 00:08:26,180 --> 00:08:32,090 remember life in Kerouac but memories of 150 00:08:28,340 --> 00:08:34,730 the war everywhere in Azerbaijan we just 151 00:08:32,090 --> 00:08:37,310 spotted these signs on the hillside over 152 00:08:34,730 --> 00:08:40,280 here on the left it says remember Kara 153 00:08:37,309 --> 00:08:44,030 back and on the right I will give my 154 00:08:40,280 --> 00:08:44,990 life for the motherland so no one's 155 00:08:44,030 --> 00:08:52,790 gonna forget about nagorno-karabakh 156 00:08:44,990 --> 00:08:54,380 around here everyone we met in 157 00:08:52,790 --> 00:08:56,420 Azerbaijan talked about Karabakh 158 00:08:54,380 --> 00:08:58,550 we'd been invited to me a young casts 159 00:08:56,420 --> 00:09:02,319 him over Azerbaijan is number one pop 160 00:08:58,550 --> 00:09:05,810 star she regularly sings about car by 161 00:09:02,320 --> 00:09:09,410 hello my leg let's meet you how are you 162 00:09:05,810 --> 00:09:11,989 very well thank you how are you and 163 00:09:09,410 --> 00:09:14,300 we've come to watch your your V we come 164 00:09:11,990 --> 00:09:19,510 to watch you singing my English very 165 00:09:14,300 --> 00:09:22,699 very bad ah well my very much worse yeah 166 00:09:19,510 --> 00:09:24,560 what would you be doing today then we 167 00:09:22,700 --> 00:09:27,620 are recording my song called Vardhan 168 00:09:24,560 --> 00:09:29,180 motherland and they're filming me it's 169 00:09:27,620 --> 00:09:31,430 combat equipment that you're wearing and 170 00:09:29,180 --> 00:09:35,780 you've got bullets here ready one minute 171 00:09:31,430 --> 00:09:37,420 ring yeah sure I can shoot with an ak-47 172 00:09:35,780 --> 00:09:42,620 and rather well 173 00:09:37,420 --> 00:09:45,709 mr. face I said mmm-hmm so I fought in 174 00:09:42,620 --> 00:09:48,350 Zangla and go badly for a month in 1993 175 00:09:45,710 --> 00:09:50,240 did I had the set days you say 176 00:09:48,350 --> 00:09:52,510 so you actually fought in the caribou 177 00:09:50,240 --> 00:09:52,510 cool 178 00:09:52,760 --> 00:10:04,160 I guess thing we're gonna be allowed to 179 00:10:00,450 --> 00:10:04,160 stay here or she seems 180 00:10:10,119 --> 00:10:14,339 I was just not going to ask me for 181 00:10:11,949 --> 00:10:14,339 Juliet 182 00:10:20,029 --> 00:10:40,670 harder are you Veeran angle ability you 183 00:10:24,389 --> 00:10:40,670 sad are you sad Vendetta many is Cosima 184 00:10:42,270 --> 00:10:49,240 hich Kamath 185 00:10:44,149 --> 00:10:49,240 icky daddy you'll do a little dashes 186 00:10:57,579 --> 00:11:02,569 have your experience is affected your 187 00:11:00,110 --> 00:11:06,170 singing and the songs that you sing sort 188 00:11:02,569 --> 00:11:08,240 of a major message every time I sing I 189 00:11:06,170 --> 00:11:11,990 close my eyes and all I can imagine is 190 00:11:08,240 --> 00:11:15,860 Cadillac we are facing this horrible 191 00:11:11,990 --> 00:11:17,629 problem every time singers like me sing 192 00:11:15,860 --> 00:11:19,279 songs all we can think of is car about 193 00:11:17,629 --> 00:11:22,309 Karabakh stands in front of our eyes 194 00:11:19,279 --> 00:11:26,410 that's all we can think of Yannick 195 00:11:22,309 --> 00:11:26,410 karappa karappa you know the Carrabba 196 00:11:27,819 --> 00:11:32,149 Azerbaijan's border with breakaway 197 00:11:29,779 --> 00:11:34,670 nagorno-karabakh is closed so to get 198 00:11:32,149 --> 00:11:35,779 there we had to take a huge detour we 199 00:11:34,670 --> 00:11:38,029 drove over the mountains into 200 00:11:35,779 --> 00:11:41,230 neighbouring Georgia and on into Armenia 201 00:11:38,029 --> 00:11:41,230 it's a bit chilly out there 202 00:11:45,749 --> 00:11:50,019 Armenia supports Kovac and it's the only 203 00:11:48,579 --> 00:11:52,719 country from which you can enter the 204 00:11:50,019 --> 00:11:54,490 breakaway state eventually we got 205 00:11:52,720 --> 00:12:01,529 through and met our kara back guide 206 00:11:54,490 --> 00:12:04,709 David we've been traveling quite a while 207 00:12:01,529 --> 00:12:06,610 but now we've got to the crucial point 208 00:12:04,709 --> 00:12:10,149 David what does this say 209 00:12:06,610 --> 00:12:13,869 we are fucker Wilkins you and that means 210 00:12:10,149 --> 00:12:17,079 exactly what exactly that our Turkish 211 00:12:13,869 --> 00:12:22,360 Laguna army only full Karabakh and three 212 00:12:17,079 --> 00:12:36,160 our tough will come soon we're in 213 00:12:22,360 --> 00:12:38,050 nagorno-karabakh the capital of Kara 214 00:12:36,160 --> 00:12:40,329 back is the small town of Stepanek kept 215 00:12:38,050 --> 00:12:42,219 during Soviet Communist times it was a 216 00:12:40,329 --> 00:12:44,529 provincial Azzurri town under Muslim 217 00:12:42,220 --> 00:12:46,059 control now the only people here are 218 00:12:44,529 --> 00:12:46,870 Christian Kara back Ian's with ties to 219 00:12:46,059 --> 00:12:48,790 Armenia 220 00:12:46,870 --> 00:12:50,259 although the Christians won the most 221 00:12:48,790 --> 00:12:52,748 recent conflict they feel they've 222 00:12:50,259 --> 00:12:54,009 suffered in the past armenians accuse 223 00:12:52,749 --> 00:12:55,620 their Muslim neighbors of killing 224 00:12:54,009 --> 00:12:58,120 millions of them in recent centuries 225 00:12:55,620 --> 00:13:00,459 it means Armenians and the people of 226 00:12:58,120 --> 00:13:02,829 care about fear new conflict and even 227 00:13:00,459 --> 00:13:05,248 students at the local university must be 228 00:13:02,829 --> 00:13:05,248 prepared 229 00:13:16,150 --> 00:13:23,240 bang you think I'm not going to attack 230 00:13:20,030 --> 00:13:25,930 anybody making them a man I'm just 231 00:13:23,240 --> 00:13:29,240 preparing myself to defend my motherland 232 00:13:25,930 --> 00:13:30,109 of them did you lose any relatives 233 00:13:29,240 --> 00:13:32,780 during the conflict 234 00:13:30,110 --> 00:13:34,850 no my cousin was he fighting or was he 235 00:13:32,780 --> 00:13:38,540 defending or was he just a civilian 236 00:13:34,850 --> 00:13:40,190 he was a civilian this is no boot camp 237 00:13:38,540 --> 00:13:41,990 these are teachers who are training to 238 00:13:40,190 --> 00:13:45,020 pass on the techniques of war to a 239 00:13:41,990 --> 00:13:47,810 younger generation well the pro Salem 240 00:13:45,020 --> 00:13:49,730 mr. agreement slaughter at school all 241 00:13:47,810 --> 00:13:52,329 pupils must have military training for 242 00:13:49,730 --> 00:13:54,620 three years is my signal 243 00:13:52,330 --> 00:13:59,200 and we have to train the teachers who 244 00:13:54,620 --> 00:13:59,200 run the course ambassador Jenkins 245 00:14:07,010 --> 00:14:11,790 this is the main marketing step Anika 246 00:14:09,680 --> 00:14:16,709 we're gonna see if we get any souvenirs 247 00:14:11,790 --> 00:14:18,990 and just see what's on sale because care 248 00:14:16,710 --> 00:14:20,190 about cannot trade with Azerbaijan most 249 00:14:18,990 --> 00:14:21,660 of the goods have to come over the 250 00:14:20,190 --> 00:14:26,450 mountains from the Armenian capital 251 00:14:21,660 --> 00:14:26,449 Yerevan where are these ones from you 252 00:14:27,649 --> 00:14:31,730 should come over the mountains as well 253 00:14:32,390 --> 00:14:38,580 so this is a traditional carrot dish 254 00:14:34,980 --> 00:14:40,430 what's in this the bread here David 3035 255 00:14:38,580 --> 00:14:43,680 types of her 256 00:14:40,430 --> 00:14:46,649 this is Armenian money this is a 257 00:14:43,680 --> 00:14:50,699 thousand which is roughly a pound so I 258 00:14:46,649 --> 00:15:01,470 paid two hundred for our piece of bread 259 00:14:50,700 --> 00:15:03,360 here are her bread hmm very tasty during 260 00:15:01,470 --> 00:15:05,310 the war Stepanek oh so heavy fighting 261 00:15:03,360 --> 00:15:09,720 when it was besieged by the Azerbaijan 262 00:15:05,310 --> 00:15:11,849 army so these areas had their guns up 263 00:15:09,720 --> 00:15:14,910 here they have their guards that have 264 00:15:11,850 --> 00:15:17,580 special type of machine were car which 265 00:15:14,910 --> 00:15:19,829 you know launched missiles and actually 266 00:15:17,580 --> 00:15:23,010 you know that it's like on palm of your 267 00:15:19,830 --> 00:15:26,070 hand so you can even target individual 268 00:15:23,010 --> 00:15:28,650 houses individually no Street there were 269 00:15:26,070 --> 00:15:32,339 even snipers who could shoot nearby 270 00:15:28,650 --> 00:15:33,420 houses oh there is my home what was it 271 00:15:32,339 --> 00:15:35,900 like for you were you coming under 272 00:15:33,420 --> 00:15:41,010 constant bombardment no it was terrible 273 00:15:35,900 --> 00:15:44,970 for example in our building around 14 274 00:15:41,010 --> 00:15:48,930 missiles heat our building Hey just your 275 00:15:44,970 --> 00:15:50,820 building just why building the Azzurri 276 00:15:48,930 --> 00:15:53,370 stronghold of shushei bore the brunt of 277 00:15:50,820 --> 00:15:55,529 the armenian counter-attack the Azaria's 278 00:15:53,370 --> 00:15:58,490 fled when the city fell and much of it 279 00:15:55,529 --> 00:15:58,490 now lies in ruins 280 00:16:02,140 --> 00:16:07,939 during the war I only building every 281 00:16:06,110 --> 00:16:11,620 single building who was a kind of photos 282 00:16:07,940 --> 00:16:13,670 and seeing if I think took place here 283 00:16:11,620 --> 00:16:16,280 what happened to the people who were 284 00:16:13,670 --> 00:16:20,599 living here actually fill in population 285 00:16:16,280 --> 00:16:24,680 I left Russia before it was taken by 286 00:16:20,600 --> 00:16:27,950 Armenian forces by Karabakh forces so 287 00:16:24,680 --> 00:16:31,959 only military personnel was here no one 288 00:16:27,950 --> 00:16:33,650 no signal philosophy suffered because 289 00:16:31,960 --> 00:16:36,140 Karabakh army 290 00:16:33,650 --> 00:16:39,189 I left the corridor for them so they 291 00:16:36,140 --> 00:16:41,750 left two latching from latching tobacco 292 00:16:39,190 --> 00:16:44,450 the truth of what happened here is hotly 293 00:16:41,750 --> 00:16:46,250 disputed by both sides but thousands of 294 00:16:44,450 --> 00:16:48,490 his areas clearly fled in fear of their 295 00:16:46,250 --> 00:16:48,490 lives 296 00:16:49,000 --> 00:16:54,500 the karabük authorities are quite happy 297 00:16:52,040 --> 00:16:56,050 with us showing this sort of devastation 298 00:16:54,500 --> 00:16:58,250 because it's the area from which the 299 00:16:56,050 --> 00:17:00,500 Azaria's bombs to pan occurred during 300 00:16:58,250 --> 00:17:01,970 the war but they're refusing to allow us 301 00:17:00,500 --> 00:17:04,069 to see villages that were as eerie 302 00:17:01,970 --> 00:17:06,860 before the conflict and were completely 303 00:17:04,069 --> 00:17:08,990 destroyed by the Armenian forces the 304 00:17:06,859 --> 00:17:10,760 population was forced to leave or left 305 00:17:08,990 --> 00:17:12,230 of its own accord and they're very 306 00:17:10,760 --> 00:17:14,060 worried about the image it creates of 307 00:17:12,230 --> 00:17:16,760 the of the conflict and the image it 308 00:17:14,060 --> 00:17:18,589 creates of karabük some international 309 00:17:16,760 --> 00:17:21,290 observers have said that the Karabakh 310 00:17:18,589 --> 00:17:23,240 Ian authorities have destroyed Azari 311 00:17:21,290 --> 00:17:25,670 villages deliberately to prevent anybody 312 00:17:23,240 --> 00:17:28,189 returning so there's no chance of people 313 00:17:25,670 --> 00:17:29,840 from Azerbaijan coming back in the 314 00:17:28,189 --> 00:17:32,030 center of the city stands an Azeri 315 00:17:29,840 --> 00:17:38,330 mosque one a few reminders of the past 316 00:17:32,030 --> 00:17:39,860 oh it's an empty shell the authorities 317 00:17:38,330 --> 00:17:42,470 in Karabakh say they're protecting this 318 00:17:39,860 --> 00:17:44,080 mosque preventing anybody from damaging 319 00:17:42,470 --> 00:17:45,760 you 320 00:17:44,080 --> 00:17:47,889 it's quite miraculous that it's still 321 00:17:45,760 --> 00:17:49,809 standing given the level of the ferocity 322 00:17:47,890 --> 00:17:52,899 of the fighting and the hatred between 323 00:17:49,809 --> 00:17:54,668 both sides but the fact remains this 324 00:17:52,899 --> 00:17:56,889 mosque is in a Christian caravan town 325 00:17:54,669 --> 00:18:03,250 and there's no Muslims left who can 326 00:17:56,890 --> 00:18:05,200 worship it both sides suffered during 327 00:18:03,250 --> 00:18:07,419 the war this city is now home to 328 00:18:05,200 --> 00:18:09,820 Armenian refugees who left Azerbaijan 329 00:18:07,419 --> 00:18:18,899 during the fighting along with their 330 00:18:09,820 --> 00:18:18,899 children for kids who live around here 331 00:18:19,080 --> 00:18:22,830 this is their playground 332 00:18:41,880 --> 00:18:46,590 I've been invited to a wedding so we're 333 00:18:44,890 --> 00:18:50,190 just going to go to carpet shop and time 334 00:18:46,590 --> 00:18:54,100 find the bride and groom of present 335 00:18:50,190 --> 00:18:57,580 Danny what's this picture of this is it 336 00:18:54,100 --> 00:18:59,909 regardless are all of the most important 337 00:18:57,580 --> 00:19:03,270 spiritual centers in the Gordon caliber 338 00:18:59,910 --> 00:19:07,240 and it's real common to depict you know 339 00:19:03,270 --> 00:19:11,410 symbols of Carbajal carpets some carpets 340 00:19:07,240 --> 00:19:13,750 serve as reminders of the war well 341 00:19:11,410 --> 00:19:20,020 that's a rocket-propelled grenade ah 342 00:19:13,750 --> 00:19:23,950 thank you big uns shingle over here tank 343 00:19:20,020 --> 00:19:28,230 here anti-aircraft guns here another 344 00:19:23,950 --> 00:19:31,110 thank you what does it say they say that 345 00:19:28,230 --> 00:19:35,190 you have to be powerful for home right 346 00:19:31,110 --> 00:19:35,189 you fight from a position of strength 347 00:19:36,960 --> 00:19:47,830 I've got my carpet I'm gonna give us a 348 00:19:40,210 --> 00:19:49,570 gift thank you look same good before the 349 00:19:47,830 --> 00:19:51,189 wedding we left the capital for a couple 350 00:19:49,570 --> 00:19:53,129 of days and headed out to the country 351 00:19:51,190 --> 00:19:55,870 left Stepanek er and driven north 352 00:19:53,130 --> 00:19:57,400 through nagorno-karabakh heading towards 353 00:19:55,870 --> 00:19:59,350 an area where there's some demining 354 00:19:57,400 --> 00:20:01,300 going on trying to get rid of some 355 00:19:59,350 --> 00:20:04,770 anti-personnel and land mines that have 356 00:20:01,300 --> 00:20:04,770 been left over from the conflict 357 00:20:05,230 --> 00:20:10,340 the demining operation is run by the 358 00:20:07,850 --> 00:20:12,530 halo trust a British based charity which 359 00:20:10,340 --> 00:20:15,530 works around the world I don't know how 360 00:20:12,530 --> 00:20:17,270 you operate in these I get used to it 361 00:20:15,530 --> 00:20:19,220 you get used to how many hours will 362 00:20:17,270 --> 00:20:21,170 people have to work wearing this they do 363 00:20:19,220 --> 00:20:23,780 the D miners do seven shifts of 45 364 00:20:21,170 --> 00:20:25,520 minutes each depending on the weather 365 00:20:23,780 --> 00:20:26,899 today's a great day brilliant day for D 366 00:20:25,520 --> 00:20:28,280 my knees not too hot in the summer it 367 00:20:26,900 --> 00:20:30,710 gets very hot but today's a great day 368 00:20:28,280 --> 00:20:34,990 that you know I love my hair it's a 369 00:20:30,710 --> 00:20:34,990 lovely sunny day let's go to a minefield 370 00:20:35,290 --> 00:20:41,659 have you seen the pitch going figs a 371 00:20:38,810 --> 00:20:42,320 cattle dog we've got no control where 372 00:20:41,660 --> 00:20:44,390 they go 373 00:20:42,320 --> 00:20:46,730 none of the accidents have happened to 374 00:20:44,390 --> 00:20:48,350 animals so what we do is we stop all 375 00:20:46,730 --> 00:20:50,030 demining soon as an animal goes into the 376 00:20:48,350 --> 00:20:53,090 area we stop the mining move away from 377 00:20:50,030 --> 00:20:54,200 the area try and get the animals out or 378 00:20:53,090 --> 00:20:57,139 wait till they've actually left the 379 00:20:54,200 --> 00:20:58,610 minefield the farmers also followed 380 00:20:57,140 --> 00:21:01,400 their cattle and livestock into 381 00:20:58,610 --> 00:21:03,290 minefields yeah they do so you found a 382 00:21:01,400 --> 00:21:06,110 mine here this this one here in Russian 383 00:21:03,290 --> 00:21:09,830 says p.m. n 2 p.m. n 2 is a Russian 384 00:21:06,110 --> 00:21:11,689 anti-personnel mine nasty very it's just 385 00:21:09,830 --> 00:21:13,970 been sitting here or the mind that was 386 00:21:11,690 --> 00:21:16,670 here was just sitting here for 10 years 387 00:21:13,970 --> 00:21:18,140 just waiting to find a victim yep yeah 388 00:21:16,670 --> 00:21:19,460 and as you can see I mean if you look to 389 00:21:18,140 --> 00:21:21,620 your left hand side we've got a football 390 00:21:19,460 --> 00:21:23,300 pitch relatives have been playing and 391 00:21:21,620 --> 00:21:24,860 this is one of the areas where we had an 392 00:21:23,300 --> 00:21:29,570 accident one of the human accidents 393 00:21:24,860 --> 00:21:31,429 occurred here it's safe for us to walk 394 00:21:29,570 --> 00:21:33,230 up to the line here as far as the the 395 00:21:31,430 --> 00:21:34,820 red stake yeah you've cleared where 396 00:21:33,230 --> 00:21:36,620 we're standing now handing we've played 397 00:21:34,820 --> 00:21:39,139 we have played so this is this is a 398 00:21:36,620 --> 00:21:41,719 cleared area everything behind these red 399 00:21:39,140 --> 00:21:43,310 sticks is an uncleared area we found one 400 00:21:41,720 --> 00:21:45,700 mined by the tree there already to the 401 00:21:43,310 --> 00:21:48,740 yellow stop there's a man walking 402 00:21:45,700 --> 00:21:51,260 walking through the minefield what are 403 00:21:48,740 --> 00:21:53,540 they doing this ask her to stop there 404 00:21:51,260 --> 00:21:54,770 garland a low on can you stop there do 405 00:21:53,540 --> 00:22:00,050 you realize you're walking in a 406 00:21:54,770 --> 00:22:02,570 minefield yes I understood why do you 407 00:22:00,050 --> 00:22:04,040 walk in the minefield but you're moving 408 00:22:02,570 --> 00:22:10,370 alleged use me in there Paula 409 00:22:04,040 --> 00:22:12,080 oh no no no no no no no go back go and 410 00:22:10,370 --> 00:22:13,560 in a shortening mother give the control 411 00:22:12,080 --> 00:22:20,409 yet kidnap 412 00:22:13,560 --> 00:22:22,440 fucking ugly so she could detonate a 413 00:22:20,410 --> 00:22:25,360 mine now possibly killing herself 414 00:22:22,440 --> 00:22:27,370 doesn't this make your guys angry yeah 415 00:22:25,360 --> 00:22:29,649 yeah we say the same thing every day 416 00:22:27,370 --> 00:22:33,239 and it's the same response I have to 417 00:22:29,650 --> 00:22:33,240 come here I'm busy I need to do my job 418 00:22:33,360 --> 00:22:36,250 do you know you're walking through a 419 00:22:35,380 --> 00:22:38,140 minefield 420 00:22:36,250 --> 00:22:40,320 it's very dangerous where you are that's 421 00:22:38,140 --> 00:22:42,730 why we're all wearing these jackets 422 00:22:40,320 --> 00:22:51,879 please and if you come if you come over 423 00:22:42,730 --> 00:22:53,800 here there could be mines here despite 424 00:22:51,880 --> 00:22:55,420 landmines and Wars the people of 425 00:22:53,800 --> 00:22:57,310 nagorno-karabakh say there's something 426 00:22:55,420 --> 00:22:59,560 special about this area which encourages 427 00:22:57,310 --> 00:23:01,419 a long life they claim that if 428 00:22:59,560 --> 00:23:03,040 nagorno-karabakh was recognized as an 429 00:23:01,420 --> 00:23:05,520 independent country it would have the 430 00:23:03,040 --> 00:23:07,990 highest rate of longevity in the world 431 00:23:05,520 --> 00:23:09,160 few outsiders have been able to check 432 00:23:07,990 --> 00:23:11,560 the claim because of the threat of 433 00:23:09,160 --> 00:23:13,810 conflict but to illustrate the point 434 00:23:11,560 --> 00:23:20,350 David suggested we stop at a graveyard 435 00:23:13,810 --> 00:23:27,700 look at these two this couple what my 436 00:23:20,350 --> 00:23:32,230 first one lived from 1877 to 1975 filled 437 00:23:27,700 --> 00:23:37,600 with the IgG at 78 to 101 and then 1880 438 00:23:32,230 --> 00:23:40,900 to 1975 so both of them were nearly a 439 00:23:37,600 --> 00:23:46,360 hundred in Tula is a photo a picture of 440 00:23:40,900 --> 00:23:49,120 them just there then we were saying that 441 00:23:46,360 --> 00:23:52,120 he found a grave here once indicating 442 00:23:49,120 --> 00:23:55,620 that the person lived to be 136 years 443 00:23:52,120 --> 00:23:55,620 old so we're just trying to find it now 444 00:23:56,790 --> 00:24:02,580 it's a hope so that's 120 that person 445 00:24:05,480 --> 00:24:16,429 this one 1822 to 1937 yeah I'm didn't 15 446 00:24:11,110 --> 00:24:19,850 the man lived hundred years 1875 1975 at 447 00:24:16,429 --> 00:24:23,059 the home on 1885 to now she's alive the 448 00:24:19,850 --> 00:24:25,189 wife she can't be still alive well come 449 00:24:23,059 --> 00:24:27,350 on lie well as I told you 450 00:24:25,190 --> 00:24:29,299 nagorno-karabakh occupied the first 451 00:24:27,350 --> 00:24:31,639 place in formosa driven by number of 452 00:24:29,299 --> 00:24:33,740 people aging 100 and more years of 453 00:24:31,640 --> 00:24:36,040 thought first place informal soldier do 454 00:24:33,740 --> 00:24:38,270 you seriously think that the the wife 455 00:24:36,040 --> 00:24:40,879 the wife could still be a student she 456 00:24:38,270 --> 00:24:46,280 would merely be 120 years old yeah but 457 00:24:40,880 --> 00:24:48,080 you think she could be alive yo people 458 00:24:46,280 --> 00:24:50,480 from all over nagorno-karabakh are 459 00:24:48,080 --> 00:24:56,000 buried here so even if she was alive she 460 00:24:50,480 --> 00:24:57,710 could be anywhere the karevik army 461 00:24:56,000 --> 00:25:00,429 agreed to take us to see their frontline 462 00:24:57,710 --> 00:25:00,429 with Azerbaijan 463 00:25:05,159 --> 00:25:09,759 there was destruction everywhere 464 00:25:07,179 --> 00:25:12,249 hundreds of homes owned by Azaria's Lyon 465 00:25:09,759 --> 00:25:16,379 ruins we weren't allowed to tour these 466 00:25:12,249 --> 00:25:16,379 villages but filmed them as we went past 467 00:25:16,470 --> 00:25:20,950 we arrived at trenches opposite 468 00:25:18,880 --> 00:25:24,730 Azerbaijan Army positions like those 469 00:25:20,950 --> 00:25:33,790 we've been in many days earlier this is 470 00:25:24,730 --> 00:25:36,010 the start of the trench these trenches 471 00:25:33,790 --> 00:25:39,120 are much more professionally made than 472 00:25:36,010 --> 00:25:42,310 once we saw and elsewhere 473 00:25:39,120 --> 00:25:45,760 there's points all along here where you 474 00:25:42,310 --> 00:25:50,220 can take breaks out the wall and then 475 00:25:45,760 --> 00:25:50,220 see what's happening on the other side I 476 00:25:52,860 --> 00:25:58,659 just pulled quite a large stone out not 477 00:25:56,980 --> 00:26:00,850 just relax I've left quite a large gap 478 00:25:58,660 --> 00:26:03,430 here but I think we're in a distance in 479 00:26:00,850 --> 00:26:06,969 which it will be quite hard for a sniper 480 00:26:03,430 --> 00:26:09,370 to get us see maybe it wouldn't maybe 481 00:26:06,970 --> 00:26:12,730 I'm not gonna take the risk I'll pop it 482 00:26:09,370 --> 00:26:14,469 back like that the bunkers am and 483 00:26:12,730 --> 00:26:16,690 round-the-clock by young conscripts 484 00:26:14,470 --> 00:26:18,670 watching the opposing trenches their 485 00:26:16,690 --> 00:26:22,690 officers told us they expect in azaria 486 00:26:18,670 --> 00:26:26,610 attack at any time they're 150 200 487 00:26:22,690 --> 00:26:30,100 metres away maybe you can clearly see 488 00:26:26,610 --> 00:26:33,280 trenches fortifications and see a little 489 00:26:30,100 --> 00:26:35,550 bit of movement as well how old are you 490 00:26:33,280 --> 00:26:41,020 okay very good 491 00:26:35,550 --> 00:26:43,899 20 20 and old are you 18 18 do you ever 492 00:26:41,020 --> 00:26:47,620 see any Azuri soldiers moving around on 493 00:26:43,900 --> 00:26:49,330 the other side we can see them moving 494 00:26:47,620 --> 00:26:52,169 but we can't tell how old they are 495 00:26:49,330 --> 00:26:52,169 it's too far away 496 00:26:52,510 --> 00:26:57,970 you can see here there's a little 497 00:26:55,360 --> 00:26:59,919 calendar that's been screwed up on this 498 00:26:57,970 --> 00:27:02,500 graffiti by one of the soldiers he's 499 00:26:59,920 --> 00:27:05,620 serving started serving 2003 and is 500 00:27:02,500 --> 00:27:09,330 serving to 2005 yeah and they're halfway 501 00:27:05,620 --> 00:27:12,219 through now the coloring in as they go 502 00:27:09,330 --> 00:27:14,830 it's taken us many days to get from the 503 00:27:12,220 --> 00:27:18,220 Azzurri side of this border all the way 504 00:27:14,830 --> 00:27:20,020 around to the Kara backside on the way 505 00:27:18,220 --> 00:27:23,290 we've heard so many stories from people 506 00:27:20,020 --> 00:27:24,940 about how they've suffered and what 507 00:27:23,290 --> 00:27:26,680 happened to them during the conflict and 508 00:27:24,940 --> 00:27:27,539 you are left feeling that there's no 509 00:27:26,680 --> 00:27:30,090 natural end 510 00:27:27,539 --> 00:27:35,639 to this conflict feels as if it could go 511 00:27:30,090 --> 00:27:36,988 on for many years to come we left the 512 00:27:35,639 --> 00:27:38,908 frontline and returned to the capital 513 00:27:36,989 --> 00:27:40,919 for the wedding but when we arrived to 514 00:27:38,909 --> 00:27:43,129 give our carpet things weren't going to 515 00:27:40,919 --> 00:27:43,129 plan 516 00:27:43,510 --> 00:27:49,990 the electricity's failed so their 517 00:27:47,289 --> 00:27:52,429 candles on the tables we can see there's 518 00:27:49,990 --> 00:27:53,270 scores of people here I don't know how 519 00:27:52,429 --> 00:27:55,850 they're gonna have the wedding by 520 00:27:53,270 --> 00:27:58,429 candlelight and how the bride and the 521 00:27:55,850 --> 00:28:01,209 groom must be feeling their biggest the 522 00:27:58,429 --> 00:28:01,210 biggest day of their lives 523 00:28:07,470 --> 00:28:11,740 when the lights went on it was seen as a 524 00:28:09,820 --> 00:28:14,169 good omen for Marigny the bride and 525 00:28:11,740 --> 00:28:15,700 Alexander her groom but few are 526 00:28:14,170 --> 00:28:18,160 optimistic about the future of their 527 00:28:15,700 --> 00:28:19,510 country nagorno-karabakh says it wants 528 00:28:18,160 --> 00:28:22,180 to remain independent 529 00:28:19,510 --> 00:28:26,820 but Azerbaijan has vowed to take it back 530 00:28:22,180 --> 00:28:26,820 neither side looks ready to compromise 531 00:29:05,020 --> 00:29:07,080 you