1 00:00:02,000 --> 00:00:04,120 If you're anything like the average British man, 2 00:00:04,120 --> 00:00:06,280 then you own nine pairs of shoes. 3 00:00:06,280 --> 00:00:08,480 And the average British woman? 4 00:00:08,480 --> 00:00:10,640 17 pairs! 5 00:00:10,640 --> 00:00:12,800 We love our shoes. 6 00:00:12,800 --> 00:00:14,360 But have you ever considered 7 00:00:14,360 --> 00:00:17,120 what it takes to make a pair of shoes from scratch? 8 00:00:18,960 --> 00:00:23,840 We've come to this remote stretch of the Cumbrian coast to find out. 9 00:00:23,840 --> 00:00:29,120 This is the largest sport shoe factory in the UK and... 10 00:00:29,120 --> 00:00:30,680 they've let us inside. 11 00:00:32,400 --> 00:00:33,880 'I'm Gregg Wallace.' 12 00:00:33,880 --> 00:00:36,000 I made this shoe right from the very beginning. 13 00:00:36,000 --> 00:00:38,720 'And tonight I'm going to show you how this factory 14 00:00:38,720 --> 00:00:44,160 'produces over 3,500 pairs of trainers every single day.' 15 00:00:44,160 --> 00:00:45,840 Heel first, upside down. 16 00:00:45,840 --> 00:00:49,640 Whoa! Whoaaaa! Goodbye, shoe. 17 00:00:49,640 --> 00:00:53,600 'They will get through over 140 miles of cotton thread.' 18 00:00:53,600 --> 00:00:54,880 Yes! 19 00:00:54,880 --> 00:00:59,160 'And sew over 32 million individual stitches.' 20 00:00:59,160 --> 00:01:00,320 I broke it. 21 00:01:00,320 --> 00:01:04,920 'I'll be making my very own pair of trainers on a human production line 22 00:01:04,920 --> 00:01:07,640 'where mistakes can be costly.' 23 00:01:07,640 --> 00:01:09,280 How many shoes behind are we now? 24 00:01:09,280 --> 00:01:11,720 About 40. Useless! 25 00:01:11,720 --> 00:01:14,280 'I'm Cherry Healy and I'll help one of the country's 26 00:01:14,280 --> 00:01:17,120 'largest leather tanneries process thousands of hides 27 00:01:17,120 --> 00:01:19,200 'for the nation's shoes.' 28 00:01:19,200 --> 00:01:22,000 Watch out! Coming in! 29 00:01:22,000 --> 00:01:25,120 'And see how one company painstakingly 30 00:01:25,120 --> 00:01:28,920 'turns 37,000 square metres of satin 31 00:01:28,920 --> 00:01:32,600 'into 250,000 ballet shoes every year, 32 00:01:32,600 --> 00:01:36,200 'some of which will only last for one performance.' 33 00:01:38,640 --> 00:01:42,440 And historian Ruth Goodman traces the surprising origins 34 00:01:42,440 --> 00:01:46,360 of the humble trainer to the back streets of Bolton. 35 00:01:46,360 --> 00:01:48,720 Reebok? Reebok is British? 36 00:01:48,720 --> 00:01:53,320 1.4 million shoes come out of this factory every year, 37 00:01:53,320 --> 00:01:56,400 heading to shoe shops all over the world. 38 00:01:56,400 --> 00:01:59,200 Tonight, we'll show you the painstaking work 39 00:01:59,200 --> 00:02:01,720 that goes into every single one. 40 00:02:01,720 --> 00:02:05,200 Welcome to Inside The Factory. 41 00:02:22,480 --> 00:02:25,960 This is the New Balance trainer factory in Flimby, Cumbria, 42 00:02:25,960 --> 00:02:28,480 on the edge of the Lake District. 43 00:02:28,480 --> 00:02:32,520 When they opened their first factory in 1982, 44 00:02:32,520 --> 00:02:37,160 they had a reputation for making a performance running shoe. 45 00:02:37,160 --> 00:02:40,080 Today, they are also known for producing 46 00:02:40,080 --> 00:02:42,960 a fashionable and colourful range of trainer. 47 00:02:44,400 --> 00:02:47,680 This 6,000 square metre factory 48 00:02:47,680 --> 00:02:52,200 has 279 people working hard to meet global demand. 49 00:02:52,200 --> 00:02:56,920 Tonight, I'm going to show you how, in just 24 hours, 50 00:02:56,920 --> 00:03:01,640 they can make 3,500 pairs of shoes. 51 00:03:01,640 --> 00:03:04,720 They make here over 30 different styles. 52 00:03:04,720 --> 00:03:08,160 This is one of their biggest sellers 53 00:03:08,160 --> 00:03:11,320 and it goes through 35 different pairs of hands. 54 00:03:11,320 --> 00:03:14,240 Well, I want to make that 36 pairs of hands. 55 00:03:14,240 --> 00:03:19,200 This is the 576 classic leather trainer. 56 00:03:19,200 --> 00:03:25,200 They've be making it for nearly 30 years, longer than any other model. 57 00:03:25,200 --> 00:03:28,400 It's made from 27 individual pieces 58 00:03:28,400 --> 00:03:31,280 that all fit together in a specific order 59 00:03:31,280 --> 00:03:35,400 to form the upper, heel, toe and sole. 60 00:03:36,680 --> 00:03:38,760 And I've got the mammoth challenge 61 00:03:38,760 --> 00:03:41,080 of learning how to fit them all together 62 00:03:41,080 --> 00:03:43,640 to make my very own pair of shoes. 63 00:03:43,640 --> 00:03:48,960 My journey starts here, in Material Intake. 64 00:03:48,960 --> 00:03:53,360 This is where they keep all the raw materials for shoemaking, 65 00:03:53,360 --> 00:03:54,760 from leather to polyester. 66 00:03:56,240 --> 00:03:58,960 I'm with quality controller Jim Fox, 67 00:03:58,960 --> 00:04:01,760 collecting everything I'll need to make my shoes. 68 00:04:01,760 --> 00:04:05,120 We are starting with foam for the shoe's padding. 69 00:04:05,120 --> 00:04:07,720 OK, Gregg, so we are going to pick up the foam. 70 00:04:07,720 --> 00:04:10,880 Just rip off one bit? No, we need the full, what we call the block... 71 00:04:10,880 --> 00:04:14,240 All of this? All of that. Don't be mad, Jim! It's very light. 72 00:04:14,240 --> 00:04:17,560 'This sheet will make over 300 trainers. 73 00:04:17,560 --> 00:04:21,320 And just 35 minutes from now, 74 00:04:21,320 --> 00:04:24,720 'this foam will form just one part of my finished shoe.' 75 00:04:24,720 --> 00:04:28,600 We are then going to pick up the toe puff material. 76 00:04:28,600 --> 00:04:30,440 A bit of toe puff. 77 00:04:30,440 --> 00:04:33,080 'Next up is 3-mil black polyester, 78 00:04:33,080 --> 00:04:36,120 'one of eight different textiles we'll need.' 79 00:04:38,200 --> 00:04:41,680 Now, this is cut precisely, so handle it with care. Yes. 80 00:04:41,680 --> 00:04:44,040 'Incredibly, each year the factory gets through 81 00:04:44,040 --> 00:04:48,640 'enough synthetic material to cover more than six football pitches.' 82 00:04:48,640 --> 00:04:50,960 We'll load that onto here. For crying out loud! 83 00:04:50,960 --> 00:04:52,760 Modern synthetic materials are key 84 00:04:52,760 --> 00:04:56,200 to making many of our modern trainers. 85 00:04:56,200 --> 00:05:00,000 However, the majority of our shoes are made from a material 86 00:05:00,000 --> 00:05:02,320 that we've used for thousands of years. 87 00:05:02,320 --> 00:05:03,840 Leather. 88 00:05:06,160 --> 00:05:11,000 New Balance get their leather from Pittards' tannery in Somerset. 89 00:05:11,000 --> 00:05:17,080 Every pair of leather shoes you've ever worn started life... 90 00:05:17,080 --> 00:05:20,080 like this. 91 00:05:20,080 --> 00:05:21,800 Rawhide. 92 00:05:21,800 --> 00:05:25,600 # Rollin', rollin, rollin' Though the streams are swollen... # 93 00:05:25,600 --> 00:05:29,760 The hides they use here are a by-product of the beef industry 94 00:05:29,760 --> 00:05:32,880 and almost all of them come from the UK. 95 00:05:32,880 --> 00:05:36,440 They are treated off-site using chromium sulphate, 96 00:05:36,440 --> 00:05:39,480 a chemical that stabilises the protein of the skin 97 00:05:39,480 --> 00:05:44,400 to stop it rotting. After that, they are sent here for processing. 98 00:05:44,400 --> 00:05:49,440 Inside each of these huge steel drums are 200 hides. 99 00:05:49,440 --> 00:05:50,760 They are mixed with dye 100 00:05:50,760 --> 00:05:53,080 and a top-secret blend of chemicals 101 00:05:53,080 --> 00:05:55,480 that colour and condition the leather. 102 00:05:57,240 --> 00:05:59,840 They might look like giant washing machines, 103 00:05:59,840 --> 00:06:04,160 but inside these drums is some fairly complex science. 104 00:06:04,160 --> 00:06:09,120 Everything about the leather on your trainers - the precise colour, 105 00:06:09,120 --> 00:06:11,960 the durability, how waterproof they are, 106 00:06:11,960 --> 00:06:14,880 even how flexible they are when you walk - 107 00:06:14,880 --> 00:06:19,320 comes down to the 24 hours they spend in these drums. 108 00:06:22,240 --> 00:06:26,640 'Now they've been coloured and conditioned, 109 00:06:26,640 --> 00:06:28,760 'the hides need to be processed, 110 00:06:28,760 --> 00:06:30,920 'so I'm taking to the tannery floor 111 00:06:30,920 --> 00:06:33,280 'to join leather operative Paul.' 112 00:06:33,280 --> 00:06:36,680 Hello, I'm geared up and ready to work. 113 00:06:36,680 --> 00:06:38,600 What happens next? 114 00:06:38,600 --> 00:06:42,520 We have to physically put the skins onto that horse. 115 00:06:42,520 --> 00:06:45,920 Oh, it weighs a tonne! 116 00:06:45,920 --> 00:06:48,240 That's a light one? That's really light. 117 00:06:48,240 --> 00:06:51,120 That weighs a tonne! 118 00:06:51,120 --> 00:06:53,760 OK, watch out, coming in. 119 00:06:57,160 --> 00:07:00,440 'Hides are natural products, so it varies in thickness, 120 00:07:00,440 --> 00:07:03,080 'particularly at the rump and the neck.' 121 00:07:03,080 --> 00:07:05,240 Wow! 122 00:07:05,240 --> 00:07:08,280 'But this machine uses super-sharp blades 123 00:07:08,280 --> 00:07:12,720 'to shave it down to a consistent 1.5 millimetre throughout.' 124 00:07:14,560 --> 00:07:15,920 Come with me. 125 00:07:15,920 --> 00:07:17,760 Whoa! 126 00:07:17,760 --> 00:07:19,640 'Now an even thickness...' 127 00:07:19,640 --> 00:07:20,720 Wow! 128 00:07:20,720 --> 00:07:22,280 Wayhey! 129 00:07:22,280 --> 00:07:26,480 'The leather gets treated with polyurethane to help it wear well, 130 00:07:26,480 --> 00:07:28,680 'along with a final touch of colour. 131 00:07:28,680 --> 00:07:31,160 'Sales director Mike Dodd is showing me 132 00:07:31,160 --> 00:07:33,160 'the spraying machine that does it.' 133 00:07:33,160 --> 00:07:35,840 This is the finishing operation. OK. 134 00:07:35,840 --> 00:07:39,280 We spray the top of the leather to give it its final colour 135 00:07:39,280 --> 00:07:41,840 and give it those final protective coats. 136 00:07:41,840 --> 00:07:44,040 There's also a level of scuff resistance 137 00:07:44,040 --> 00:07:45,520 that gives us the confidence 138 00:07:45,520 --> 00:07:48,280 that this is going to make a nice piece of robust footwear. 139 00:07:48,280 --> 00:07:49,560 Here we go. 140 00:07:50,640 --> 00:07:51,960 Wayhey! 141 00:07:51,960 --> 00:07:55,440 Oh, it's beautiful! OK, watch your head behind you. 142 00:07:55,440 --> 00:07:57,200 Get it on the pole. 143 00:07:58,560 --> 00:08:00,680 And this is where we earn our corn. 144 00:08:04,040 --> 00:08:06,160 Whoa! 145 00:08:06,160 --> 00:08:08,120 Got it, got it, got it. 146 00:08:08,120 --> 00:08:11,640 'The finished leather spends an hour drying on the sky train 147 00:08:11,640 --> 00:08:14,600 'before it's finally checked over and graded.' 148 00:08:14,600 --> 00:08:17,200 There's no substitute for a visual inspection 149 00:08:17,200 --> 00:08:19,720 of where the scratches are, where the scars are, 150 00:08:19,720 --> 00:08:21,520 where there is damage on the hide. 151 00:08:21,520 --> 00:08:25,800 And this is classic for British cattle - scratches from barbed wire. 152 00:08:25,800 --> 00:08:27,800 As long as we get barbed wire in the UK 153 00:08:27,800 --> 00:08:30,200 and the cattle occasionally get an itchy bum, 154 00:08:30,200 --> 00:08:32,520 so we have to account for that in the grading. 155 00:08:32,520 --> 00:08:34,120 Someone had a very scratchy bum. 156 00:08:34,120 --> 00:08:37,240 'Scratches will show on a finished shoe, 157 00:08:37,240 --> 00:08:39,400 'but, provided there aren't too many, 158 00:08:39,400 --> 00:08:41,440 'the shoemakers can work around them. 159 00:08:41,440 --> 00:08:46,000 'So, this leather makes the grade and it's ready for packing.' 160 00:08:46,000 --> 00:08:48,800 There's over 50,000 square feet of leather 161 00:08:48,800 --> 00:08:51,360 coming through this factory every day. 162 00:08:51,360 --> 00:08:53,560 It's been sent all over the world, 163 00:08:53,560 --> 00:08:57,280 but this is on its way to the Cumbrian coast, 164 00:08:57,280 --> 00:09:00,720 where its journey to become a pair of trainers is just getting started. 165 00:09:06,600 --> 00:09:08,400 'Back at the factory in Flimby, 166 00:09:08,400 --> 00:09:11,280 'I've spent the last four minutes collecting the raw materials 167 00:09:11,280 --> 00:09:16,280 'for my shoes. And now I'm ready for the latest delivery of leather.' 168 00:09:16,280 --> 00:09:18,360 Whoa! Whoa! 169 00:09:19,480 --> 00:09:21,640 Lovely! Thank you very much. 170 00:09:25,160 --> 00:09:27,200 Oh, that is very attractive. 171 00:09:27,200 --> 00:09:30,760 'The leather from Somerset will be used 172 00:09:30,760 --> 00:09:34,000 'for 91% of the exterior of my trainer.' 173 00:09:35,880 --> 00:09:38,520 The 279 workers in this factory 174 00:09:38,520 --> 00:09:41,760 are split into six uniquely named teams - 175 00:09:41,760 --> 00:09:48,720 Greta, Derwent, United, Ellen, Indians and Solway. 176 00:09:48,720 --> 00:09:51,360 They are all capable of making any one 177 00:09:51,360 --> 00:09:53,400 of the company's 30 trainer designs 178 00:09:53,400 --> 00:09:57,440 and are assigned a different shoe to work on each day. 179 00:09:57,440 --> 00:10:00,400 With 495 years between them, 180 00:10:00,400 --> 00:10:03,200 Team Solway have the most experience 181 00:10:03,200 --> 00:10:06,640 and they are going to help me make my leather trainer. 182 00:10:09,280 --> 00:10:11,800 I'll join their tightly run factory line 183 00:10:11,800 --> 00:10:16,040 as the raw materials pass through eight individual processes, 184 00:10:16,040 --> 00:10:18,280 from embroidery to sole fitting, 185 00:10:18,280 --> 00:10:23,720 as we try to hit our daily target of 444 pairs of shoes. 186 00:10:25,840 --> 00:10:27,920 First stop, Cutting. 187 00:10:30,920 --> 00:10:34,200 This shoe has eight unique leather shapes 188 00:10:34,200 --> 00:10:39,240 and chief cutter Billy Edgar is the man to show me how you make them. 189 00:10:39,240 --> 00:10:41,520 Billy, I'm Gregg. 190 00:10:41,520 --> 00:10:42,720 Pleased to meet you. 191 00:10:42,720 --> 00:10:44,400 You are master leather cutter? 192 00:10:44,400 --> 00:10:46,440 Yeah, but you are coming into my kitchen today, 193 00:10:46,440 --> 00:10:48,760 so let's have a pinny on, please. 194 00:10:48,760 --> 00:10:50,080 All right. All right. 195 00:10:50,080 --> 00:10:52,880 Well, that's not a bad bit of kit, that, Billy. 196 00:10:52,880 --> 00:10:55,800 I've been doing this job since I left school in '66. 197 00:10:55,800 --> 00:10:58,000 You've been doing this since 1966? 198 00:10:58,000 --> 00:11:01,160 England won the World Cup, Billy started cutting leather. 199 00:11:01,160 --> 00:11:04,600 'By carefully choosing where he places the templates, 200 00:11:04,600 --> 00:11:07,200 'Billy can get eight pairs of shoes 201 00:11:07,200 --> 00:11:10,800 'out of one piece of leather with hardly any wastage, 202 00:11:10,800 --> 00:11:12,600 'known as the skeleton.' 203 00:11:12,600 --> 00:11:14,160 I want you to be cutting like this. 204 00:11:14,160 --> 00:11:15,640 That's your skeleton. 205 00:11:15,640 --> 00:11:18,440 Ann Summers charges about a tenner each for them. 206 00:11:19,760 --> 00:11:22,440 I'll never do it. You will. I won't! 207 00:11:22,440 --> 00:11:28,240 'The skeleton offcut is thrown away, so every cut has to count.' 208 00:11:29,400 --> 00:11:32,880 Whoa, you are right on the edge. That's all right, don't worry. 209 00:11:32,880 --> 00:11:36,120 You just want it to come away like that. 210 00:11:36,120 --> 00:11:38,880 You can do that, can't you? I think I can. 211 00:11:38,880 --> 00:11:41,960 'Time for me to have a go.' 212 00:11:41,960 --> 00:11:43,440 All right, we're all right. 213 00:11:43,440 --> 00:11:45,920 Yeah? Yeah, go for it. 214 00:11:47,680 --> 00:11:49,720 'And it's harder than it looks.' 215 00:11:53,160 --> 00:11:55,200 Oh, Billy, look at that! Yes! 216 00:11:56,360 --> 00:11:58,880 'Billy would have cut out 23 pieces 217 00:11:58,880 --> 00:12:01,720 in the time it's taken me to cut out four, 218 00:12:01,720 --> 00:12:04,120 'and I've wasted a lot of leather.' 219 00:12:04,120 --> 00:12:06,400 My skeleton is a lot fatter than yours. 220 00:12:06,400 --> 00:12:08,760 'If I cut leather like that all year, 221 00:12:08,760 --> 00:12:13,800 'I'd cost the company nearly £500,000 in wasted material.' 222 00:12:13,800 --> 00:12:15,680 That's been my favourite bit so far. 223 00:12:15,680 --> 00:12:17,240 Have a good day. Cheers, Bill. 224 00:12:17,240 --> 00:12:18,800 You all right, darling? 225 00:12:18,800 --> 00:12:20,160 'I've cut my leather, 226 00:12:20,160 --> 00:12:22,960 'now I need the synthetic parts for my shoe.' 227 00:12:22,960 --> 00:12:24,120 Flip over like that... 228 00:12:24,120 --> 00:12:28,240 One machine cuts the black polyester six sheets at a time. 229 00:12:29,440 --> 00:12:31,160 Another cuts the foam. 230 00:12:32,800 --> 00:12:36,200 And, together, they will form the soft cushioning in my trainer. 231 00:12:37,800 --> 00:12:41,200 I've now got all the parts I'll need to assemble my shoe. 232 00:12:43,920 --> 00:12:47,680 These shoes are what the industry knows as lifestyle shoes. 233 00:12:47,680 --> 00:12:50,760 They share a lot of the same design and technology 234 00:12:50,760 --> 00:12:53,080 as high-performance running shoes, 235 00:12:53,080 --> 00:12:55,480 but they're basically a fashion item. 236 00:12:55,480 --> 00:12:57,800 So, when were they invented and why? 237 00:12:57,800 --> 00:13:01,520 Historian Ruth Goodman is finding out. 238 00:13:05,120 --> 00:13:09,120 The cobbled streets of Bolton may seem like an unlikely birthplace 239 00:13:09,120 --> 00:13:11,840 for the global phenomenon that is the trainer. 240 00:13:13,320 --> 00:13:17,120 But David Foster's family believe they kicked off the whole thing. 241 00:13:18,520 --> 00:13:21,400 The guy that started it all, really, is my great-grandfather, 242 00:13:21,400 --> 00:13:24,280 pictured here, Joe Foster. 243 00:13:24,280 --> 00:13:27,200 And he invented his running spike back in 1895 244 00:13:27,200 --> 00:13:30,200 above his father's sweet shop, here in Bolton. 245 00:13:31,880 --> 00:13:35,440 'Incredibly, runners would run in their regular leather shoes 246 00:13:35,440 --> 00:13:37,880 'before Joe Foster's invention. 247 00:13:37,880 --> 00:13:42,480 'But he wanted to give runners better traction on the track 248 00:13:42,480 --> 00:13:46,240 'and turned to the hobnailed cricket boots for inspiration.' 249 00:13:47,560 --> 00:13:53,480 So he took this concept and refined it and came up with this shoe. 250 00:13:53,480 --> 00:13:58,720 You can see the studs have grown into ginormous spikes, 251 00:13:58,720 --> 00:14:02,400 which give you much better traction on a cinder track. 252 00:14:02,400 --> 00:14:04,240 I tell you what this reminds me of. 253 00:14:04,240 --> 00:14:06,120 It looks just like a ballet shoe. 254 00:14:06,120 --> 00:14:09,040 It's actually constructed in exactly the same way. 255 00:14:09,040 --> 00:14:11,200 A ballet shoe with spikes! 256 00:14:11,200 --> 00:14:13,840 As far as an athletic shoe is concerned, I mean, 257 00:14:13,840 --> 00:14:15,560 this was quite revolutionary. 258 00:14:15,560 --> 00:14:20,880 Certainly was. This just changed the whole face of running. 259 00:14:22,160 --> 00:14:28,280 In 1904, Alf Shrubb broke three different distance world records 260 00:14:28,280 --> 00:14:32,640 in a single race wearing Foster's running pumps. 261 00:14:34,040 --> 00:14:38,560 Overnight, Joe Foster's shoes became world-famous, 262 00:14:38,560 --> 00:14:40,520 but the best was yet to come. 263 00:14:42,240 --> 00:14:47,000 In 1924, two British stars, Harold Abrahams and Eric Liddell, 264 00:14:47,000 --> 00:14:50,080 both took to the track at the Paris Olympics, 265 00:14:50,080 --> 00:14:53,640 the Games made famous by the film Chariots Of Fire. 266 00:14:53,640 --> 00:14:56,880 MUSIC: Chariots of Fire by Vangelis 267 00:14:56,880 --> 00:14:59,840 Liddell won gold in the 400m 268 00:14:59,840 --> 00:15:03,120 and Abrahams was victorious in the 100m sprint, 269 00:15:03,120 --> 00:15:06,440 both wearing Foster & Sons running spikes. 270 00:15:07,880 --> 00:15:10,360 The company went from strength to strength, 271 00:15:10,360 --> 00:15:12,800 producing a range of sports shoes. 272 00:15:14,080 --> 00:15:17,800 But in 1958, feeling they had outgrown the family business, 273 00:15:17,800 --> 00:15:22,400 'two of the Foster sons split off to form a brand-new company.' 274 00:15:22,400 --> 00:15:25,960 My father and uncle, they had just had enough 275 00:15:25,960 --> 00:15:28,440 and they decided they were going to go their own way. 276 00:15:28,440 --> 00:15:31,760 So they upped sticks and moved from Bolton to Bury 277 00:15:31,760 --> 00:15:34,800 and founded Reebok. Reebok? 278 00:15:34,800 --> 00:15:40,160 Yes. My dad had won a South African dictionary 279 00:15:40,160 --> 00:15:44,040 in a local race. What a bizarre thing to win! 280 00:15:44,040 --> 00:15:48,000 They looked through this dictionary and they came up with Reebok, 281 00:15:48,000 --> 00:15:49,440 a South African gazelle. 282 00:15:49,440 --> 00:15:53,240 What did they do with this new firm? 283 00:15:53,240 --> 00:15:55,600 Literally, they took the Foster's tradition 284 00:15:55,600 --> 00:16:00,840 and then span it out using new materials and new technologies. 285 00:16:00,840 --> 00:16:05,120 I started working for my dad in 1983, 286 00:16:05,120 --> 00:16:10,760 just as we began to get into a newfangled fitness sport in the US 287 00:16:10,760 --> 00:16:13,200 called aerobics. 288 00:16:13,200 --> 00:16:17,440 And at that point, Reebok just went mental. 289 00:16:18,800 --> 00:16:22,680 Women powered the demand for the new freestyle trainers 290 00:16:22,680 --> 00:16:25,080 used in gym classes. 291 00:16:25,080 --> 00:16:28,480 Reebok sales ballooned from 1 million in 1980 292 00:16:28,480 --> 00:16:32,680 to 1 billion in 1986. 293 00:16:32,680 --> 00:16:36,240 Young girls started to wear this on the street. 294 00:16:36,240 --> 00:16:38,960 So, all of a sudden, we got into colour 295 00:16:38,960 --> 00:16:42,000 and we became a fashion brand. 296 00:16:44,640 --> 00:16:46,440 It was an incredible time 297 00:16:46,440 --> 00:16:48,920 and I was very proud to be part of it. 298 00:16:52,600 --> 00:16:54,840 'Today, Reebok is owned by Adidas. 299 00:16:57,720 --> 00:17:01,680 'But it's the retro '80s inspired Reebok Classic range 300 00:17:01,680 --> 00:17:04,160 'that remains the biggest seller.' 301 00:17:04,160 --> 00:17:08,800 Today this little Union Jack is a reminder of 18-year-old Joe Foster, 302 00:17:08,800 --> 00:17:12,720 who pioneered the running pump more than 100 years ago, 303 00:17:12,720 --> 00:17:16,000 working over his father's sweet shop in Bolton. 304 00:17:28,000 --> 00:17:29,400 Back at the factory, 305 00:17:29,400 --> 00:17:34,040 I'm 13 minutes into making my very own pair of leather sports shoes. 306 00:17:34,040 --> 00:17:37,480 So far, I've cut the parts I'll need to assemble the shoe. 307 00:17:40,840 --> 00:17:43,440 Now it's time to start putting them all together, 308 00:17:43,440 --> 00:17:46,880 so I'm heading to Pre-Fit to meet Joanne Murphy. 309 00:17:48,240 --> 00:17:51,080 Joanne, I've got to bring some bits to you. 310 00:17:51,080 --> 00:17:53,600 What do you do here? I do the tips and the foxings. 311 00:17:54,880 --> 00:17:56,920 What, and add bits to it? Yes. 312 00:17:56,920 --> 00:17:58,320 Would you do that for me? Yes. 313 00:17:59,600 --> 00:18:02,440 The tips and foxings are the pieces of leather 314 00:18:02,440 --> 00:18:05,120 covering the toe and heel of the shoe. 315 00:18:05,120 --> 00:18:08,000 These parts get put under a lot of stress 316 00:18:08,000 --> 00:18:09,600 by the wearer's foot, 317 00:18:09,600 --> 00:18:11,960 so they need to be strengthened. 318 00:18:11,960 --> 00:18:15,160 You're putting the reinforced plastic bits in, aren't you? Yeah. 319 00:18:15,160 --> 00:18:16,680 Is it heat that sticks them? 320 00:18:16,680 --> 00:18:19,480 Yes, it's heat. Heat will stick that down 321 00:18:19,480 --> 00:18:21,000 and it will come out quite hot. 322 00:18:21,000 --> 00:18:22,520 This is a lot like baking. 323 00:18:22,520 --> 00:18:24,120 Ah, yeah! SHE LAUGHS 324 00:18:24,120 --> 00:18:26,440 I've heard this is called skiving. 325 00:18:26,440 --> 00:18:29,200 That's skiving. That's called skiving. 326 00:18:29,200 --> 00:18:30,800 What's that bit? I'll show you. 327 00:18:30,800 --> 00:18:32,520 That's my sort of job, that is. 328 00:18:32,520 --> 00:18:37,840 'Skiving is actually an old English shoemaking term for shaving leather. 329 00:18:37,840 --> 00:18:40,520 'By making it thin around the edges, 330 00:18:40,520 --> 00:18:44,160 'they can bend the leather around the form of the toe more easily.' 331 00:18:44,160 --> 00:18:47,000 I need to take a light layer off the top. 332 00:18:47,000 --> 00:18:48,800 You're, like, giving it a shave. 333 00:18:48,800 --> 00:18:50,800 Yes. Can I take these bits, Joanne? 334 00:18:50,800 --> 00:18:52,440 Yes, you can. 335 00:18:52,440 --> 00:18:54,520 Thank you. Okeydoke, bye. 336 00:18:54,520 --> 00:18:57,120 Now my leather has been reinforced with plastic, 337 00:18:57,120 --> 00:18:59,240 I'm heading to Embroidery. 338 00:19:00,680 --> 00:19:04,240 This is where a design gets stitched into the back of my shoe. 339 00:19:05,600 --> 00:19:10,760 This industrial sewing machine can embroider up to 15 pieces at a time 340 00:19:10,760 --> 00:19:13,280 and it's overseen by Jackie Hebson. 341 00:19:13,280 --> 00:19:15,240 Jackie! 342 00:19:15,240 --> 00:19:16,840 What's going in here, a Union Jack? 343 00:19:16,840 --> 00:19:18,520 Yeah. 344 00:19:19,600 --> 00:19:21,320 'Despite their small size, 345 00:19:21,320 --> 00:19:26,520 'it will take 21 metres of cotton and 3,300 stitches 346 00:19:26,520 --> 00:19:29,160 'to sew each tiny flag.' 347 00:19:29,160 --> 00:19:31,520 Does it sound like a machine gun to you? Yes! 348 00:19:34,680 --> 00:19:38,440 Why has it stopped? Cos two lights are flashing. 349 00:19:38,440 --> 00:19:40,760 So the cottons have jumped out, 350 00:19:40,760 --> 00:19:43,320 so we would have to thread it up. 351 00:19:43,320 --> 00:19:45,240 I'm not going anywhere near that needle. 352 00:19:45,240 --> 00:19:48,280 It won't come down. It will! It won't. 353 00:19:48,280 --> 00:19:50,520 'The machine might be hi-tech, 354 00:19:50,520 --> 00:19:53,360 'but it still takes a human's hand-eye eye coordination 355 00:19:53,360 --> 00:19:55,000 'to re-thread the needle.' 356 00:19:55,000 --> 00:19:58,120 Pull it down. This is precision engineering. 357 00:19:58,120 --> 00:19:59,760 Yes! Yes! 358 00:20:00,880 --> 00:20:02,120 I'll start it. 359 00:20:05,840 --> 00:20:08,000 We did it. Yep. 360 00:20:08,000 --> 00:20:09,720 Proper job! I love these. 361 00:20:12,400 --> 00:20:15,760 I'm finally ready to assemble the different parts of my shoe, 362 00:20:15,760 --> 00:20:18,240 so I'm heading to Auto-Stitch. 363 00:20:19,280 --> 00:20:23,280 This is where I'll make the top part of my shoe, called the upper. 364 00:20:26,200 --> 00:20:29,520 It's made from parts that vary in strength, 365 00:20:29,520 --> 00:20:32,920 thickness and texture to form the finished design. 366 00:20:35,560 --> 00:20:38,360 'It's Susan Brown's job to place the different parts of the shoe 367 00:20:38,360 --> 00:20:40,760 'on a template in the correct order 368 00:20:40,760 --> 00:20:44,440 'before a machine automatically stitches them together.' 369 00:20:45,440 --> 00:20:48,840 Can you lay that stuff down in the speed that that takes to stitch? 370 00:20:48,840 --> 00:20:51,040 Yes. That's about ten seconds. 371 00:20:51,040 --> 00:20:53,800 Yes. My word, how many of these are you knocking out a minute? 372 00:20:53,800 --> 00:20:54,960 About 20 a minute? 373 00:20:54,960 --> 00:20:58,240 You've got to do 24 shoes in 15 minutes. 374 00:20:58,240 --> 00:21:00,080 You've got to do 24 shoes in 15 minutes? 375 00:21:00,080 --> 00:21:03,200 Yes. How many times have you stitched your hand to the machine? 376 00:21:03,200 --> 00:21:05,440 Never. I would never be able to do it that quick. 377 00:21:07,240 --> 00:21:09,320 'Time to find out if I've got what it takes 378 00:21:09,320 --> 00:21:12,960 'to build a shoe in 37 seconds.' 379 00:21:12,960 --> 00:21:14,960 Stand back, Susan, stand back. 380 00:21:14,960 --> 00:21:16,520 Get me a vamp, please. 381 00:21:16,520 --> 00:21:19,320 Right foot vamp. Give me collar plugs. 382 00:21:19,320 --> 00:21:22,280 There you are. On that side. Like that? 383 00:21:22,280 --> 00:21:25,200 Make sure it lines up with all the holes. 384 00:21:25,200 --> 00:21:26,840 Lines up the what? With all them holes. 385 00:21:26,840 --> 00:21:28,640 With all them holes. 386 00:21:29,760 --> 00:21:31,600 Is that not bad? No, you're doing well. 387 00:21:31,600 --> 00:21:34,400 And then I twist the knobs to shut it up. 388 00:21:35,520 --> 00:21:36,920 Well done, you can have a job. 389 00:21:36,920 --> 00:21:38,800 Are you pleased with me? Yes. 390 00:21:38,800 --> 00:21:42,680 'Susan might be impressed, but I'm only halfway done. 391 00:21:42,680 --> 00:21:45,720 'I've now got more layers to add with Charlene Steele 392 00:21:45,720 --> 00:21:49,080 'at the next auto-stitch station.' 393 00:21:49,080 --> 00:21:52,160 You fit your vamps onto the pallets, 394 00:21:52,160 --> 00:21:54,280 then you fit your apron. 395 00:21:56,000 --> 00:21:58,080 And you tip. 396 00:21:58,080 --> 00:22:03,120 Then you place your two Ns on, your Ns go to the outside. 397 00:22:04,240 --> 00:22:10,000 'Team Solway must make 444 pairs of shoes in a day, 398 00:22:10,000 --> 00:22:13,640 'and their hourly targets are displayed on a board 399 00:22:13,640 --> 00:22:14,840 'for everyone to see. 400 00:22:14,840 --> 00:22:19,520 'I thought I was being fast, but it seems that's not the case.' 401 00:22:19,520 --> 00:22:20,880 We are minus 16 now. 402 00:22:20,880 --> 00:22:23,240 We are 16, like, behind. 403 00:22:23,240 --> 00:22:25,080 Is that because of me? 404 00:22:25,080 --> 00:22:27,320 Well, yeah, we've stopped sort of thing, haven't we? 405 00:22:27,320 --> 00:22:30,040 I'm out of here, I won't slow you down any more, I promise. Right! 406 00:22:31,640 --> 00:22:34,280 'Luckily, this next part is one of the quickest. 407 00:22:34,280 --> 00:22:37,880 'The final step for the upper part of my trainer 408 00:22:37,880 --> 00:22:40,160 'is to punch holes for the laces.' 409 00:22:40,160 --> 00:22:41,920 We've got lace holes. 410 00:22:41,920 --> 00:22:44,880 That, for the first time, now looks like a shoe. 411 00:22:46,080 --> 00:22:49,080 This factory makes up to 75 different designs 412 00:22:49,080 --> 00:22:51,520 and they're constantly coming up with new ones. 413 00:22:51,520 --> 00:22:53,960 Cherry has been learning the tricks of the trade 414 00:22:53,960 --> 00:22:56,760 with some of Britain's up-and-coming shoe designers. 415 00:22:56,760 --> 00:22:58,480 I'm doing OK here, aren't I? 416 00:22:58,480 --> 00:23:00,000 Yeah, you're doing good. 417 00:23:01,600 --> 00:23:05,920 Cordwainers College is part of the London College of Fashion. 418 00:23:05,920 --> 00:23:08,360 Over the last 129 years, 419 00:23:08,360 --> 00:23:12,200 it's been turning out some of the best shoe designers in the country. 420 00:23:13,520 --> 00:23:18,320 Here, students learn to design and make their shoes all under one roof 421 00:23:18,320 --> 00:23:22,480 and this is where Jimmy Choo learned his trade. 422 00:23:24,640 --> 00:23:28,960 A three-year design course teaches them how to turn creative ideas 423 00:23:28,960 --> 00:23:31,800 into practical, commercial products. 424 00:23:33,040 --> 00:23:35,840 Kitty Shukman is in the second year of her course. 425 00:23:35,840 --> 00:23:39,000 How much work goes into designing a shoe? 426 00:23:39,000 --> 00:23:41,080 Is it as easy as I think it is? 427 00:23:41,080 --> 00:23:43,080 You just get a shoe and stick things on it? 428 00:23:43,080 --> 00:23:45,760 No, not at all. I don't think anyone realises 429 00:23:45,760 --> 00:23:47,480 how much really goes in beforehand. 430 00:23:47,480 --> 00:23:51,520 You have so many stages to it and so many ideas that come to it. 431 00:23:51,520 --> 00:23:53,360 So something that can look really simple 432 00:23:53,360 --> 00:23:55,160 has actually had so much thought put in. 433 00:23:56,680 --> 00:24:00,680 'The students usually get 12 weeks to complete each project, 434 00:24:00,680 --> 00:24:03,240 'but they've offered to help me make the shoe of my dreams 435 00:24:03,240 --> 00:24:05,160 'in just one day.' 436 00:24:05,160 --> 00:24:07,160 This is such a treat, this really is. 437 00:24:07,160 --> 00:24:09,800 I can't believe you're going to help me design a shoe. 438 00:24:13,560 --> 00:24:16,640 'My brief for them is a fun and colourful party shoe 439 00:24:16,640 --> 00:24:20,560 'with a Brazilian twist. I've called it Rio Rave. 440 00:24:22,600 --> 00:24:25,040 'But there's a lot more to designing a shoe 441 00:24:25,040 --> 00:24:27,040 'than producing a fancy drawing, 442 00:24:27,040 --> 00:24:30,720 'as lecturer Ian Goff and course leader Sarah Day explain.' 443 00:24:30,720 --> 00:24:35,640 When your students are designing shoes to make in the outside world, 444 00:24:35,640 --> 00:24:37,360 what do they have to think about? 445 00:24:37,360 --> 00:24:39,960 First of all, to think about the price and commerciality 446 00:24:39,960 --> 00:24:42,960 and suitability for the consumer. So they've got to be wearable, 447 00:24:42,960 --> 00:24:45,760 they've got to hold someone's weight. Yep. They've got to last. 448 00:24:45,760 --> 00:24:48,960 Make the company money that they are doing it for, of course! 449 00:24:50,520 --> 00:24:54,520 'The students have come up with some inspiring ideas for my Rio Rave, 450 00:24:54,520 --> 00:24:56,720 'but now I have to choose.' 451 00:24:56,720 --> 00:25:00,760 All of the shoes here today are amazingly creative and wonderful. 452 00:25:00,760 --> 00:25:04,320 But obviously I only have one day to make my shoe. 453 00:25:04,320 --> 00:25:07,080 We need to have a fairly practical design. 454 00:25:07,080 --> 00:25:08,680 This would be quite simple to make 455 00:25:08,680 --> 00:25:11,320 because it's obviously based around the court shoe shape. 456 00:25:11,320 --> 00:25:13,360 Yes, we've got some great colours there. 457 00:25:13,360 --> 00:25:14,680 I absolutely love that. 458 00:25:16,040 --> 00:25:19,920 'Student Ashley Chambers designed the court shoe we've chosen. 459 00:25:19,920 --> 00:25:23,520 'It has a continuous top edge and simple high heel 460 00:25:23,520 --> 00:25:26,840 'and it's one of the easiest designs to manufacture. 461 00:25:26,840 --> 00:25:30,440 'The next step is to pick my materials 462 00:25:30,440 --> 00:25:33,680 'and I've been let loose in the college vaults.' 463 00:25:33,680 --> 00:25:35,960 Oh, it's like Aladdin's cave! 464 00:25:35,960 --> 00:25:41,120 'A pair of women's shoes can sell for tens or thousands of pounds, 465 00:25:41,120 --> 00:25:44,000 'and that depends on the complexity of the design, 466 00:25:44,000 --> 00:25:48,440 'the quality of materials and the reputation of the designer.' 467 00:25:48,440 --> 00:25:50,360 Is this too bling for the lining? 468 00:25:50,360 --> 00:25:52,440 No, I think that would go quite well. 469 00:25:52,440 --> 00:25:58,360 'But before I can build my shoe, I need to choose an appropriate last.' 470 00:25:58,360 --> 00:26:02,840 So, a last is the foundation on which you build the shoe? 471 00:26:02,840 --> 00:26:04,080 That's correct, yes. 472 00:26:04,080 --> 00:26:07,600 There's all sorts of different shapes, heel heights. 473 00:26:07,600 --> 00:26:11,160 Basically, the shoe is constructed on the last, 474 00:26:11,160 --> 00:26:13,080 that's what gives it its shape and its form. 475 00:26:13,080 --> 00:26:18,720 So, a size seven in a shape that looks similar to what we've designed 476 00:26:18,720 --> 00:26:21,840 is this. And it's called Sarah. 477 00:26:21,840 --> 00:26:23,680 That's right. Why is it called Sarah? 478 00:26:23,680 --> 00:26:27,920 So all the lasts have an identification name or number. 479 00:26:27,920 --> 00:26:32,440 It's just an industry standard so that when you produce a design spec, 480 00:26:32,440 --> 00:26:34,480 and you send that to the factory, 481 00:26:34,480 --> 00:26:37,520 they know exactly what shape you want to make your shoes on. 482 00:26:38,840 --> 00:26:40,680 'Last year in the UK, 483 00:26:40,680 --> 00:26:46,000 'sales of women's designer shoes topped £532 million. 484 00:26:47,080 --> 00:26:50,240 'Every one of the thousands of different designs 485 00:26:50,240 --> 00:26:52,760 'would have started life as a prototype 486 00:26:52,760 --> 00:26:54,920 'built on a last like this one. 487 00:26:56,440 --> 00:27:00,040 'We are using my Sarah last to make a paper template 488 00:27:00,040 --> 00:27:02,960 'to cut the leather for the upper part of the shoe. 489 00:27:06,520 --> 00:27:09,800 'While some of the other students are getting to work 490 00:27:09,800 --> 00:27:11,520 'on the straps and accessories, 491 00:27:11,520 --> 00:27:13,720 'a thermoplastic stiffener is slipped 492 00:27:13,720 --> 00:27:15,680 'between the lining and the leather 493 00:27:15,680 --> 00:27:19,000 'to make sure the shoe keeps its shape, 494 00:27:19,000 --> 00:27:21,560 'then it's heated and moulded on a machine.' 495 00:27:21,560 --> 00:27:24,320 Oh, look! 496 00:27:24,320 --> 00:27:28,360 You can see it is really starting to take shape. Yes. 497 00:27:28,360 --> 00:27:31,240 'Next, we are going to add the heels.' 498 00:27:31,240 --> 00:27:33,480 It's funny cos when they are away from the shoe, 499 00:27:33,480 --> 00:27:34,960 they just don't look very strong. 500 00:27:34,960 --> 00:27:37,280 Is that really going to hold my weight? Yes, they will, 501 00:27:37,280 --> 00:27:39,920 because they've got metal, so they are reinforced. 502 00:27:39,920 --> 00:27:42,840 'Because the point of the heel is so small, 503 00:27:42,840 --> 00:27:47,240 'a 60kg woman exerts 16 times more pressure on the ground 504 00:27:47,240 --> 00:27:51,760 'than a five tonne elephant so, to stop them from breaking, 505 00:27:51,760 --> 00:27:55,440 'the heels have to be nailed into the shoe's base.' 506 00:27:55,440 --> 00:27:56,760 Whoa! 507 00:27:59,080 --> 00:28:02,480 'It's taken seven of us all day to make my shoes 508 00:28:02,480 --> 00:28:05,800 'and now it's the moment of truth.' 509 00:28:08,360 --> 00:28:12,120 Look what we made! Woohoo! 510 00:28:12,120 --> 00:28:16,320 Rio Rave they most certainly are. 511 00:28:16,320 --> 00:28:20,080 They're really good, aren't they? Well done, you! 512 00:28:21,840 --> 00:28:27,040 I had absolutely no idea how much time and effort it takes 513 00:28:27,040 --> 00:28:29,440 to make a pair of designer shoes. 514 00:28:29,440 --> 00:28:32,400 They are a real testament to the skill of the students here 515 00:28:32,400 --> 00:28:35,360 and I can't wait to see where they will end up. 516 00:28:43,560 --> 00:28:49,120 'Design and style is also key here at the trainer factory in Cumbria. 517 00:28:49,120 --> 00:28:51,560 'Development manager Chris Hodgson 518 00:28:51,560 --> 00:28:54,240 'reveals some quirky British influences.' 519 00:28:54,240 --> 00:28:56,080 The Kings Head. 520 00:28:56,080 --> 00:28:59,320 The Royal Oak. The Red Lion. 521 00:28:59,320 --> 00:29:03,080 Are they pubs? They are the three most popular pub names in England. 522 00:29:03,080 --> 00:29:05,560 You made shoes designed around pubs. 523 00:29:05,560 --> 00:29:09,000 You've got a Chesterfield settee leather on the front. 524 00:29:09,000 --> 00:29:11,480 You've got a Paisley wallpaper, 525 00:29:11,480 --> 00:29:13,440 and if you look inside it, 526 00:29:13,440 --> 00:29:16,600 you've got a stone floor with a beer glass stain on the top. 527 00:29:16,600 --> 00:29:20,800 You have! You've got a stone floor on the inside. 528 00:29:20,800 --> 00:29:26,960 What else? These are representations of varying jackets. 529 00:29:26,960 --> 00:29:31,680 So what you have there between the black marl and the black leather 530 00:29:31,680 --> 00:29:36,120 and the Day-Glo orange is basically a workman's donkey jacket. 531 00:29:37,600 --> 00:29:41,160 It is. That is actually a donkey... 532 00:29:41,160 --> 00:29:43,680 When you started here making running shoes, 533 00:29:43,680 --> 00:29:45,880 did you ever think you would eventually be asked 534 00:29:45,880 --> 00:29:48,080 to make a shoe that looked like a pub? 535 00:29:48,080 --> 00:29:51,160 Beyond my wildest comprehension. 536 00:29:52,480 --> 00:29:54,200 I've worn plenty of shoes IN the pub, 537 00:29:54,200 --> 00:29:56,920 but I've never been asked to make one that LOOKS like one. 538 00:30:00,560 --> 00:30:04,320 It's been 22 minutes since I started making my leather trainers 539 00:30:04,320 --> 00:30:07,160 and so far I've made the upper part of the shoe. 540 00:30:09,960 --> 00:30:12,680 Now I'm heading to Manual Stitch, 541 00:30:12,680 --> 00:30:16,200 where I'll transform my upper from flat to 3-D. 542 00:30:18,240 --> 00:30:20,120 'Jean Fox is one of eight ladies 543 00:30:20,120 --> 00:30:23,520 'whose skill with a sewing machine is essential for this job.' 544 00:30:24,960 --> 00:30:27,280 This is the start of making it look like a shoe. 545 00:30:27,280 --> 00:30:29,800 So you put that round the machine like that 546 00:30:29,800 --> 00:30:32,120 and you bring the backs together. 547 00:30:34,520 --> 00:30:38,120 Then you cut the tape and you turn it around. 548 00:30:40,400 --> 00:30:42,080 Right, step back, madam. 549 00:30:42,080 --> 00:30:43,680 Let me show you how it's done. 550 00:30:43,680 --> 00:30:46,480 Go on, Gregg, guide it along, so you're keeping these together. 551 00:30:46,480 --> 00:30:48,360 Oh, I've got you. Yeah. Aah! 552 00:30:48,360 --> 00:30:51,120 Slow, slow... Aah! 553 00:30:53,280 --> 00:30:54,640 I've broke it. 554 00:30:54,640 --> 00:30:58,200 It's now just wrapping like a coil of rope around itself. 555 00:30:59,920 --> 00:31:04,160 You've got that stuck. How many shoes behind are we now? 556 00:31:04,160 --> 00:31:06,520 A lot. About 40. 557 00:31:06,520 --> 00:31:08,480 Useless! 558 00:31:10,440 --> 00:31:14,560 'Thankfully, Jean is able to rescue my botched upper.' 559 00:31:14,560 --> 00:31:16,280 Jean, I'm sorry, I'm out of here. 560 00:31:16,280 --> 00:31:18,080 Thanks for your efforts. Right, see you. 561 00:31:19,680 --> 00:31:22,160 'My mistakes are holding up the production line 562 00:31:22,160 --> 00:31:25,720 'and I've put Team Solway 40 shoes behind their target. 563 00:31:25,720 --> 00:31:30,360 'Time to stop mucking about and get serious about making my shoes. 564 00:31:30,360 --> 00:31:33,680 'Next person to babysit me is Marion Hyde.' 565 00:31:33,680 --> 00:31:35,240 Pleased to meet you. Now, 566 00:31:35,240 --> 00:31:38,760 can you tell me how we now turn these into proper shoes? 567 00:31:38,760 --> 00:31:43,640 First operation is what we call on this shoe backtab and collar. 568 00:31:43,640 --> 00:31:45,640 It's called what? Backtab... 569 00:31:45,640 --> 00:31:49,120 And collar? Isn't that where they remove the hairs from your... 570 00:31:49,120 --> 00:31:52,320 No. Backtab, not waxing. 571 00:31:52,320 --> 00:31:54,840 Backtab. Got you, got you. 572 00:31:56,000 --> 00:31:59,440 The backtab and collar provides support to your ankle 573 00:31:59,440 --> 00:32:03,320 and we need to stitch them to the upper part of my shoe. 574 00:32:03,320 --> 00:32:05,960 Safety first, Gregg. 575 00:32:05,960 --> 00:32:08,280 Need to tie up my hair, first stage. 576 00:32:10,960 --> 00:32:14,480 Right, on this machine it can be very dangerous, watch fingers. 577 00:32:14,480 --> 00:32:16,240 Pinkies could disappear. 578 00:32:16,240 --> 00:32:17,440 Right? What?! 579 00:32:17,440 --> 00:32:19,560 Be very careful. 580 00:32:19,560 --> 00:32:21,160 Just keep your fingers well away. 581 00:32:21,160 --> 00:32:23,520 Come close to the edge with that needle. 582 00:32:23,520 --> 00:32:27,440 Slowly does it. Right, follow the curve of the shoe. 583 00:32:27,440 --> 00:32:29,040 Move your shoe around. 584 00:32:29,040 --> 00:32:31,440 Get off, get off, get off! 585 00:32:33,880 --> 00:32:35,960 That's it, stop. Lift your foot. 586 00:32:35,960 --> 00:32:39,480 Turn around. Pull it out. 587 00:32:39,480 --> 00:32:41,040 Put your threads... 588 00:32:42,240 --> 00:32:44,080 'Luckily, I didn't mess this one up, 589 00:32:44,080 --> 00:32:48,680 'or I'd have put Team Solway even further behind their target.' 590 00:32:48,680 --> 00:32:51,240 I tell you what, I found all that very, very stressful. 591 00:32:51,240 --> 00:32:53,360 I held my breath through all of that. 592 00:32:53,360 --> 00:32:56,040 Did you? Why? Cos you did really well on that bit. 593 00:32:56,040 --> 00:32:58,360 Thank you. You've got a good teacher, you see. 594 00:32:58,360 --> 00:33:03,440 That isn't just the machine, that's human skill with a machine. 595 00:33:03,440 --> 00:33:05,080 It is, correct. Is that all right? 596 00:33:05,080 --> 00:33:07,600 That's a lot better. Not 100%, but a lot better. 597 00:33:07,600 --> 00:33:09,000 Can I have a sit down now? 598 00:33:09,000 --> 00:33:10,600 Not break time yet. 599 00:33:13,280 --> 00:33:15,160 Machines like this are the reason 600 00:33:15,160 --> 00:33:18,560 that modern factories can produce thousands of shoes every day. 601 00:33:18,560 --> 00:33:21,360 But when they were first introduced in the 19th century, 602 00:33:21,360 --> 00:33:23,520 not everybody was happy about it. 603 00:33:26,160 --> 00:33:28,200 There was a time before factories, 604 00:33:28,200 --> 00:33:30,800 when every town and village in Britain had a shoemaker. 605 00:33:32,000 --> 00:33:35,920 In 1851, it was a profession more common than being a tailor, 606 00:33:35,920 --> 00:33:38,160 a blacksmith or a coal miner. 607 00:33:38,160 --> 00:33:40,480 It was a cottage industry. 608 00:33:40,480 --> 00:33:43,680 The workers collected the leather from the middlemen in town, 609 00:33:43,680 --> 00:33:45,960 but they sewed the shoes at home. 610 00:33:49,240 --> 00:33:53,520 'Tod Booth still hand-makes his shoes in the traditional way.' 611 00:33:53,520 --> 00:33:56,880 This is an upper from a pair of shoes. 612 00:33:56,880 --> 00:33:58,880 Right. So, do you want to have a go? 613 00:33:58,880 --> 00:34:02,640 So, this is the way all shoes used to be made. 614 00:34:02,640 --> 00:34:06,120 Absolutely, they started using this method in the Roman times, 615 00:34:06,120 --> 00:34:08,840 it passed all the way through the Vikings, 616 00:34:08,840 --> 00:34:10,840 the Saxons, medieval, Tudor, 617 00:34:10,840 --> 00:34:12,440 17th century and 18th century, 618 00:34:12,440 --> 00:34:16,400 and of course even now I'm making shoes like this today. 619 00:34:16,400 --> 00:34:20,680 So, this is very much a craftsperson doing the whole process. 620 00:34:20,680 --> 00:34:22,880 Absolutely. They have to do everything. 621 00:34:22,880 --> 00:34:24,640 They have to select the leather, 622 00:34:24,640 --> 00:34:27,560 they have to design the shoe, they have to cut the leather, 623 00:34:27,560 --> 00:34:30,520 they have to prepare it, they have to put it together, 624 00:34:30,520 --> 00:34:33,960 they have to make the whole shoe and finish it as well. 625 00:34:33,960 --> 00:34:37,320 It's slow, isn't it? It's not even as if the sewing is one process, 626 00:34:37,320 --> 00:34:40,280 you've already had to go around and make all the holes the first time. 627 00:34:40,280 --> 00:34:44,600 To make a pair of shoes takes me about eight hours. 628 00:34:44,600 --> 00:34:46,160 What do you think? 629 00:34:46,160 --> 00:34:47,960 That's not bad. 630 00:34:47,960 --> 00:34:51,800 That's not bad. But it has taken you nearly two hours. 631 00:34:53,240 --> 00:34:56,080 I'm not sure I'll employ you as an apprentice. 632 00:34:56,080 --> 00:34:59,280 However, for a first go, that's not bad at all. 633 00:35:03,480 --> 00:35:05,920 Back in the middle of the 19th century, 634 00:35:05,920 --> 00:35:09,200 there was one town that had established a reputation 635 00:35:09,200 --> 00:35:13,120 for making some of the best shoes in the country - Northampton. 636 00:35:14,120 --> 00:35:18,040 Here, over a third of all men were shoemakers, 637 00:35:18,040 --> 00:35:20,000 mostly working from their homes. 638 00:35:21,440 --> 00:35:25,400 But this way of life, with its relative tranquillity, 639 00:35:25,400 --> 00:35:29,840 was broken in the 1850s when the Industrial Revolution came to town. 640 00:35:31,800 --> 00:35:35,240 It came in the form of a new invention - the sewing machine. 641 00:35:36,680 --> 00:35:39,560 It was up to 50 times faster than hand sewing, 642 00:35:39,560 --> 00:35:43,080 but too large and expensive for workers to have in their homes, 643 00:35:43,080 --> 00:35:46,040 so new factories were built to house them. 644 00:35:48,240 --> 00:35:50,720 At the Crockett & Jones shoe factory in Northampton, 645 00:35:50,720 --> 00:35:53,480 they still have a Singer treadle sewing machine 646 00:35:53,480 --> 00:35:56,280 that was cutting edge for its day. 647 00:35:57,960 --> 00:36:01,080 They are really quite heavy to work on, these machines. 648 00:36:01,080 --> 00:36:03,320 It takes a surprising amount of muscle, actually. 649 00:36:04,640 --> 00:36:06,280 I sometimes think, you know, 650 00:36:06,280 --> 00:36:09,200 we imagine that the coming of machines 651 00:36:09,200 --> 00:36:12,960 is always automatically a loss of skill. 652 00:36:12,960 --> 00:36:15,480 In this case, it's just a different skill. 653 00:36:15,480 --> 00:36:17,640 This is still craftwork. 654 00:36:20,200 --> 00:36:22,920 The traditional shoemakers of Northampton 655 00:36:22,920 --> 00:36:28,240 railed against the new machines, going on strike in 1859. 656 00:36:28,240 --> 00:36:33,120 They were loath to join a production line with set hours and set pay. 657 00:36:34,160 --> 00:36:37,880 But with growing concerns over cheap shoe imports, 658 00:36:37,880 --> 00:36:39,960 it was agreed that the sewing machine 659 00:36:39,960 --> 00:36:42,080 could be introduced to sew the uppers, 660 00:36:42,080 --> 00:36:44,040 work traditionally done by women. 661 00:36:45,600 --> 00:36:49,960 'Rebecca Shawcross from the Northampton Shoe Museum explains.' 662 00:36:49,960 --> 00:36:52,800 We are standing in the closing room now. 663 00:36:52,800 --> 00:36:56,560 This is the closing room probably about 1900. 664 00:36:56,560 --> 00:36:59,600 The only man I can see in this whole image is him there 665 00:36:59,600 --> 00:37:02,240 and he is clearly a supervisor. 666 00:37:02,240 --> 00:37:06,640 Indeed. And even today, the closing, which is the sewing of the uppers, 667 00:37:06,640 --> 00:37:08,480 is all done by women. 668 00:37:08,480 --> 00:37:11,280 So were men pushed out of work as a result 669 00:37:11,280 --> 00:37:14,480 of this large-scale employment of girls and women? 670 00:37:14,480 --> 00:37:16,200 Not so much, just simply because 671 00:37:16,200 --> 00:37:19,680 there's about 200 different processes involved in shoemaking 672 00:37:19,680 --> 00:37:22,400 and the majority are done by men. 673 00:37:24,480 --> 00:37:28,160 Gradually more of the shoemaking process was mechanised 674 00:37:28,160 --> 00:37:30,280 and brought inside the factory. 675 00:37:31,320 --> 00:37:34,240 So it didn't... Machines did not produce the unemployment 676 00:37:34,240 --> 00:37:37,040 that everybody was frightened of? No, no. 677 00:37:37,040 --> 00:37:40,600 With the rise of the machines, productivity exploded. 678 00:37:40,600 --> 00:37:44,000 A company that made around 500,000 pairs of shoes a year 679 00:37:44,000 --> 00:37:46,400 in the late 1850s 680 00:37:46,400 --> 00:37:50,640 could make five million pairs of shoes ten years later. 681 00:37:50,640 --> 00:37:55,440 Northampton boomed as a shoemaking centre, and over the next 40 years, 682 00:37:55,440 --> 00:37:57,840 the population doubled. 683 00:37:58,840 --> 00:38:01,880 And life for the shoemaker was unrecognisable 684 00:38:01,880 --> 00:38:04,160 from the old cottage industry. 685 00:38:04,160 --> 00:38:06,800 It must have been really difficult for people 686 00:38:06,800 --> 00:38:09,360 to make that transition from being somebody 687 00:38:09,360 --> 00:38:11,280 who made a whole pair of shoes 688 00:38:11,280 --> 00:38:15,400 to somebody who was just involved in part of a much bigger process 689 00:38:15,400 --> 00:38:20,200 within a regulated factory. But looking around today, 690 00:38:20,200 --> 00:38:22,960 it is clear that a level of skill 691 00:38:22,960 --> 00:38:28,000 and indeed craftsmanship, is still absolutely necessary. 692 00:38:32,280 --> 00:38:35,400 I'm at the New Balance shoe factory in Cumbria, 693 00:38:35,400 --> 00:38:38,040 where Team Solway are helping me make 694 00:38:38,040 --> 00:38:40,240 my very own pair of leather trainers. 695 00:38:41,760 --> 00:38:44,200 So far, I've cut my leather pieces, 696 00:38:44,200 --> 00:38:47,840 reinforced and embroidered them and stitched them together 697 00:38:47,840 --> 00:38:49,560 to form the shoe upper. 698 00:38:49,560 --> 00:38:52,080 And it has only taken 25 minutes. 699 00:38:53,080 --> 00:38:55,560 The next stage in Manual Stitch 700 00:38:55,560 --> 00:38:58,920 is where my upper will get cushioning sewn inside. 701 00:38:58,920 --> 00:39:02,160 Whoa, that's the fastest thing I've ever seen! 702 00:39:04,560 --> 00:39:06,960 Insides stitched. 703 00:39:08,240 --> 00:39:10,200 Tongue cushioned. 704 00:39:10,200 --> 00:39:12,280 You look like you might be a bit of a wiz. 705 00:39:12,280 --> 00:39:13,920 That's precision, isn't it? 706 00:39:13,920 --> 00:39:15,840 Heel padded. 707 00:39:15,840 --> 00:39:19,240 So I've got to hold down the tongue and then slide my lever under. 708 00:39:19,240 --> 00:39:21,960 Don't let go of your tongue. I won't let go of my tongue. 709 00:39:24,040 --> 00:39:27,680 All attached. My upper is now complete. 710 00:39:27,680 --> 00:39:30,320 No-one who bought these shoes would imagine for a moment, 711 00:39:30,320 --> 00:39:32,640 I'm telling you, that they have been hand-stitched 712 00:39:32,640 --> 00:39:36,920 by Charlene, Jean, Gillian, Lucy, 713 00:39:36,920 --> 00:39:39,800 Susan, Claire and Liz. 714 00:39:39,800 --> 00:39:43,080 And not forgetting Marion. Yes. Correct. No-one. I know. 715 00:39:43,080 --> 00:39:44,560 What an operation! 716 00:39:44,560 --> 00:39:47,520 I'm leaving this bit of ladies, to put them in there. 717 00:39:47,520 --> 00:39:50,120 We are going to a very blokey looking bit, aren't we? 718 00:39:52,080 --> 00:39:56,320 The section I'm heading to is overseen by Jim Fox and his team 719 00:39:56,320 --> 00:39:58,520 and it's called Moulding. 720 00:39:59,480 --> 00:40:04,800 Here, my shoes come out of an oven at 110 degrees Celsius. 721 00:40:04,800 --> 00:40:07,640 Jim, why are my shoes in this oven? 722 00:40:07,640 --> 00:40:10,160 We need them to be malleable so they mould around the last. 723 00:40:10,160 --> 00:40:13,880 What's a last? It's a foot mould, what we make the shoe on. 724 00:40:14,920 --> 00:40:16,320 Right, that's a last. 725 00:40:16,320 --> 00:40:18,200 That's hot and steaming in there 726 00:40:18,200 --> 00:40:20,520 because we need the leather to be pliable 727 00:40:20,520 --> 00:40:23,680 so we can stretch it over the shape of the shoe? Correct. 728 00:40:23,680 --> 00:40:27,000 Can I have a go, Jim? You can have a go. Put it onto the peg. 729 00:40:27,000 --> 00:40:30,600 Right, take the upper from the... 730 00:40:30,600 --> 00:40:33,360 Waah! It's really hot, yes. 731 00:40:33,360 --> 00:40:35,600 You've got a shoehorn to help you. 732 00:40:35,600 --> 00:40:38,240 I don't need a shoehorn. I'm as strong as an ox. 733 00:40:38,240 --> 00:40:41,240 Now, where does this go? That goes on underneath the sock. 734 00:40:41,240 --> 00:40:44,480 And you've got to do this while the shoe is hot 735 00:40:44,480 --> 00:40:46,360 so that the leather will stretch? 736 00:40:46,360 --> 00:40:49,560 That's it. You are just going to pass this across to Steven. 737 00:40:49,560 --> 00:40:51,720 Steven, show me what to do. 738 00:40:53,600 --> 00:40:56,280 The pincers are getting hold of the leather, 739 00:40:56,280 --> 00:40:58,800 feed it into the other pincers and pull down. 740 00:40:58,800 --> 00:41:01,720 He leaves hot melted glue underneath 741 00:41:01,720 --> 00:41:04,480 and he closes the uppers around the last. 742 00:41:04,480 --> 00:41:06,320 When it comes out of that after ten seconds, 743 00:41:06,320 --> 00:41:09,000 you will see what we call a lasted edge. 744 00:41:10,120 --> 00:41:12,160 Like so. 745 00:41:13,720 --> 00:41:18,040 This machine effectively stretches the leather upper around the moulds, 746 00:41:18,040 --> 00:41:20,440 gluing it firmly into position. 747 00:41:20,440 --> 00:41:24,560 I've now been making my trainers for 29 minutes, 748 00:41:24,560 --> 00:41:27,280 and they are finally coming together. 749 00:41:27,280 --> 00:41:30,360 The shoes that are made here are exported all over the world, 750 00:41:30,360 --> 00:41:32,160 so shoes today could end up 751 00:41:32,160 --> 00:41:35,240 in a high street in Workington down the road, 752 00:41:35,240 --> 00:41:37,080 or Fifth Avenue, New York. 753 00:41:37,080 --> 00:41:40,080 Cherry has been to a more unusual shoe factory - 754 00:41:40,080 --> 00:41:43,520 a place that makes thousands of shoes every day, 755 00:41:43,520 --> 00:41:46,600 none of which will ever see the street. 756 00:41:49,400 --> 00:41:55,000 No-one has a relationship with their shoes quite like a ballerina. 757 00:41:55,000 --> 00:41:58,240 And even though they are not pounding the pavement, 758 00:41:58,240 --> 00:42:02,360 they can get through a pair of shoes in a single performance. 759 00:42:02,360 --> 00:42:07,560 This is me aged nine at my first-ever ballet performance. 760 00:42:07,560 --> 00:42:09,960 It's one of my happiest childhood memories. 761 00:42:09,960 --> 00:42:14,080 I vividly remember the day I got my first pair of ballet shoes, 762 00:42:14,080 --> 00:42:17,000 I was over the moon. I cherished them, 763 00:42:17,000 --> 00:42:20,720 I loved that they were really pretty and delicate, but so strong. 764 00:42:20,720 --> 00:42:24,600 I've always wondered, how do they make them? 765 00:42:26,680 --> 00:42:31,440 Freed of London make 250,000 pairs of ballet shoes every year, 766 00:42:31,440 --> 00:42:34,040 supplying most of the ballet companies 767 00:42:34,040 --> 00:42:36,720 and top ballet dancers around the world. 768 00:42:38,480 --> 00:42:41,720 Their production techniques have barely changed 769 00:42:41,720 --> 00:42:43,240 over the last 87 years. 770 00:42:43,240 --> 00:42:46,680 Each pair is handmade by one of the 95 workers, 771 00:42:46,680 --> 00:42:50,400 often to the specific requirements of each dancer. 772 00:42:53,440 --> 00:42:55,600 'Alan Doherty is going to fill me in 773 00:42:55,600 --> 00:42:58,640 'on some of the secrets to making pointed shoes.' 774 00:42:58,640 --> 00:43:00,440 Each maker's got their own symbol. 775 00:43:00,440 --> 00:43:03,280 So anyone who is wearing a pair of shoes made by you 776 00:43:03,280 --> 00:43:05,560 will be able to tell? Yeah. 777 00:43:06,800 --> 00:43:11,440 'The shoe is created inside out in the traditional turn shoe method 778 00:43:11,440 --> 00:43:13,320 'to keep the stitching out of sight. 779 00:43:13,320 --> 00:43:16,200 'First, the inner soul is stapled to a last 780 00:43:16,200 --> 00:43:20,040 'and placed onto your satin and cotton upper.' 781 00:43:20,040 --> 00:43:21,680 Hold it in with a single nail. 782 00:43:23,200 --> 00:43:26,720 'Point shoes need the toes reinforcing 783 00:43:26,720 --> 00:43:29,280 'and it is done with a surprising ingredient.' 784 00:43:29,280 --> 00:43:31,920 It looks like very old porridge. 785 00:43:31,920 --> 00:43:35,640 It is flour, water and a few secret ingredients. 786 00:43:35,640 --> 00:43:38,680 First of all, what we do is get some paste. Yep. 787 00:43:38,680 --> 00:43:41,880 Spread it all over. All over the shoe, like so. 788 00:43:41,880 --> 00:43:44,720 Is that really sticky enough, just water and a few other bits? 789 00:43:44,720 --> 00:43:47,240 Yep. Piece of hessian, 790 00:43:47,240 --> 00:43:49,680 right up to the point where the nail is. 791 00:43:49,680 --> 00:43:51,160 A little bit more paste. 792 00:43:53,080 --> 00:43:55,080 Another piece of hessian. 793 00:43:57,000 --> 00:43:59,720 And then we finish it off with a bit of tissue. 794 00:43:59,720 --> 00:44:03,280 That is your shoe, your block. 795 00:44:03,280 --> 00:44:05,920 'Now the pleats are created.' 796 00:44:07,640 --> 00:44:09,320 Pull and twist. 797 00:44:11,080 --> 00:44:13,320 How many shoes do you think you make a day? 798 00:44:13,320 --> 00:44:14,920 I make 34 pairs. 799 00:44:14,920 --> 00:44:17,200 34 exactly? I do, yes. 800 00:44:18,240 --> 00:44:20,960 'The shoes are then hand-stitched in the sewing room 801 00:44:20,960 --> 00:44:24,840 'and returned to be turned the right way round.' 802 00:44:24,840 --> 00:44:26,640 So you're rolling it out. Roll it. 803 00:44:26,640 --> 00:44:28,760 Oh, I see! Then twist. 804 00:44:28,760 --> 00:44:31,160 This is what this is for, the broom handle. Right! 805 00:44:32,400 --> 00:44:34,840 Oh, wow! Hand-done. 806 00:44:34,840 --> 00:44:39,840 'The most important step comes next as the point is shaped. 807 00:44:43,640 --> 00:44:46,720 'Then the insole is pasted in.' 808 00:44:46,720 --> 00:44:48,560 And now we are finishing it. 809 00:44:48,560 --> 00:44:49,960 More bashing. More bashing. 810 00:44:49,960 --> 00:44:53,440 It is brilliant that the most useful tool is a hammer. 811 00:44:53,440 --> 00:44:54,640 Hammer, oh, yes. 812 00:44:54,640 --> 00:44:56,640 The way you do this is unique to you. 813 00:44:56,640 --> 00:44:58,360 Unique to me, yes. 814 00:44:58,360 --> 00:45:01,160 It's the moment of truth now. 815 00:45:01,160 --> 00:45:05,320 Oh, wow! And it must make you really proud. 816 00:45:05,320 --> 00:45:08,640 It does, it does make me proud knowing that someone, 817 00:45:08,640 --> 00:45:11,800 somewhere in the world is wearing our shoes. 818 00:45:11,800 --> 00:45:14,800 'From here, the shoe is baked in an oven 819 00:45:14,800 --> 00:45:19,440 'at 70 degrees Celsius for eight hours to make the block go hard 820 00:45:19,440 --> 00:45:24,000 'before a final stitching and a meticulous quality control. 821 00:45:24,000 --> 00:45:27,440 'All in all, it's a 16-hour process. 822 00:45:29,640 --> 00:45:34,600 'I've been granted privileged access backstage at the Royal Ballet 823 00:45:34,600 --> 00:45:37,680 'where they get through 13,000 pairs of shoes a year 824 00:45:37,680 --> 00:45:41,240 'at a cost of £250,000. 825 00:45:41,240 --> 00:45:43,320 'And yet these new ballet shoes 826 00:45:43,320 --> 00:45:46,360 'are not yet considered performance-ready, 827 00:45:46,360 --> 00:45:50,200 'as each dancer will customise their own shoe. 828 00:45:50,200 --> 00:45:53,600 'I am meeting acclaimed principal dancer Lauren Cuthbertson 829 00:45:53,600 --> 00:45:57,840 'to find out how she prepares her shoes for the big night.' 830 00:45:57,840 --> 00:45:59,720 So, these look brand-new. 831 00:45:59,720 --> 00:46:02,600 Can you just put these on and dance in them tonight? 832 00:46:02,600 --> 00:46:05,680 Well, they would need to be broken in. 833 00:46:07,040 --> 00:46:11,360 'An unbroken shoe isn't flexible and does not support the foot en pointe. 834 00:46:11,360 --> 00:46:14,480 'All ballerinas have their own unique way 835 00:46:14,480 --> 00:46:17,640 'of customising to improve performance.' 836 00:46:18,840 --> 00:46:22,720 This is how I do it. Whoa! 837 00:46:22,720 --> 00:46:25,080 So I am just making it more malleable in the sock. 838 00:46:25,080 --> 00:46:27,280 Oh, my goodness! The top part of the shoe, 839 00:46:27,280 --> 00:46:31,720 you can feel it sort of starts to melt in your hands. Yes. 840 00:46:31,720 --> 00:46:36,640 'This manipulation gets the shoe to hug the foot perfectly.' 841 00:46:36,640 --> 00:46:41,760 How do they feel? It feels like home. Really? Yeah! 842 00:46:41,760 --> 00:46:44,200 I literally couldn't imagine wearing anything else. 843 00:46:44,200 --> 00:46:47,960 'Lauren also likes to add a few vital wool stitches 844 00:46:47,960 --> 00:46:51,120 'to the point of her shoes for added traction.' 845 00:46:52,280 --> 00:46:55,040 It just makes me feel less vulnerable 846 00:46:55,040 --> 00:46:57,240 next to the surface of the floor. 847 00:46:57,240 --> 00:47:00,640 Sometimes I feel like I might slip and slide around 848 00:47:00,640 --> 00:47:05,080 and I don't want to feel like that. It defines the edge of the shoe. 849 00:47:05,080 --> 00:47:07,480 For a performance, I would then scrape off the satin 850 00:47:07,480 --> 00:47:08,560 at the end of the shoe. 851 00:47:09,680 --> 00:47:12,520 'There is one last trick to soften the block 852 00:47:12,520 --> 00:47:15,480 'that allows Lauren to perform at her best.' 853 00:47:15,480 --> 00:47:18,240 I would do it on the concrete tiles of the bathroom 854 00:47:18,240 --> 00:47:20,000 and I would go... 855 00:47:24,080 --> 00:47:26,880 ..like that quite a few times to take the noise out. 856 00:47:26,880 --> 00:47:31,120 So, is having the right fit vital to your career? 857 00:47:31,120 --> 00:47:33,680 Yeah. It is absolutely vital. 858 00:47:35,400 --> 00:47:39,800 I had absolutely no idea that the quality of the shoe is critical. 859 00:47:39,800 --> 00:47:41,280 It's not just a shoe. 860 00:47:41,280 --> 00:47:44,880 It is a tool and it can make or break the performance. 861 00:47:58,440 --> 00:48:00,240 At the trainer factory in Cumbria, 862 00:48:00,240 --> 00:48:02,960 I have been making my shoes for just 30 minutes 863 00:48:02,960 --> 00:48:05,680 and I already have something resembling a trainer. 864 00:48:05,680 --> 00:48:07,960 It's just lacking SOLE. 865 00:48:09,400 --> 00:48:12,960 Fortunately, the next stop on the production line is Sole Fitting. 866 00:48:14,160 --> 00:48:17,880 Right, I have heated, I've stretched front and back, 867 00:48:17,880 --> 00:48:20,400 I've got a bit of an innard in there. 868 00:48:20,400 --> 00:48:24,400 Now what? Now we are going to rough in the bottom of the sole. 869 00:48:24,400 --> 00:48:25,920 How do we rough it up? 870 00:48:25,920 --> 00:48:29,560 Put it on another buffer? We have a machine, a robot roughing machine. 871 00:48:29,560 --> 00:48:31,800 A robot roughing machine! 872 00:48:31,800 --> 00:48:34,160 Yes. You take the right foot onto that peg 873 00:48:34,160 --> 00:48:36,080 and then you press the blue button. 874 00:48:36,080 --> 00:48:37,360 Stick it on here, Jim. 875 00:48:37,360 --> 00:48:39,520 Yeah. Like that? Like that. 876 00:48:39,520 --> 00:48:42,600 Onto there. Ready? Ready. 877 00:48:50,200 --> 00:48:54,040 'This robot rougher was installed at the factory ten years ago 878 00:48:54,040 --> 00:48:57,640 'and cost £120,000. 879 00:48:57,640 --> 00:49:00,520 'I can see that it is roughing the shoe with precision accuracy, 880 00:49:00,520 --> 00:49:04,000 'but it is leaving the leather in a right old state.' 881 00:49:04,000 --> 00:49:05,840 That is your roughing almost complete. 882 00:49:08,880 --> 00:49:11,120 That robot has just ruined my shoe. 883 00:49:11,120 --> 00:49:13,160 No, it hasn't. He's ruined it, look. 884 00:49:13,160 --> 00:49:16,200 I am going to turn it round now and show you the back. 885 00:49:16,200 --> 00:49:19,240 That has roughened the area where we are going to apply the glue 886 00:49:19,240 --> 00:49:23,040 so the sole we put on this bonds to it correctly. 887 00:49:23,040 --> 00:49:24,520 Theresa! 888 00:49:25,520 --> 00:49:30,000 'Theresa Tyson's job is to apply the glue that will stick on the soles, 889 00:49:30,000 --> 00:49:32,640 'but first we need to apply some primer.' 890 00:49:32,640 --> 00:49:34,000 You hold your shoe like that. 891 00:49:37,000 --> 00:49:38,520 A little bit on your brush. 892 00:49:39,840 --> 00:49:44,280 You do the toe and the four-part to them marks there. 893 00:49:45,760 --> 00:49:47,120 How's that? 894 00:49:48,520 --> 00:49:50,480 Could be a bit quicker! 895 00:49:50,480 --> 00:49:53,320 That doesn't really matter if I get it on the sole, does it? 896 00:49:53,320 --> 00:49:54,520 No, it doesn't matter, 897 00:49:54,520 --> 00:49:58,000 but you have to keep within the marks of the line. Yeah, I get that. 898 00:49:58,000 --> 00:50:00,480 Ooh, Theresa, look what you did. 899 00:50:00,480 --> 00:50:02,480 It's all right, I've got your back. 900 00:50:02,480 --> 00:50:04,480 Just take it all the way around the shoe. 901 00:50:06,760 --> 00:50:09,560 Next, the sole and the glued shoe pass through a machine 902 00:50:09,560 --> 00:50:11,160 called a cement drier, 903 00:50:11,160 --> 00:50:14,000 where an infrared light raises the temperature 904 00:50:14,000 --> 00:50:16,840 to over 120 degrees Celsius. 905 00:50:16,840 --> 00:50:19,560 This activates the special glue, 906 00:50:19,560 --> 00:50:22,480 making them ready to stick together. 907 00:50:24,360 --> 00:50:26,320 While I wait for that to happen, 908 00:50:26,320 --> 00:50:28,880 Cherry has been learning that choosing the right footwear 909 00:50:28,880 --> 00:50:31,760 is critical because get it wrong 910 00:50:31,760 --> 00:50:34,400 and your feet could be in big trouble. 911 00:50:34,400 --> 00:50:37,960 Three-quarters of us will experience foot problems at some stage 912 00:50:37,960 --> 00:50:40,160 and she is finding out why. 913 00:50:42,120 --> 00:50:46,240 As a nation, we are struggling to choose the best shoes 914 00:50:46,240 --> 00:50:48,400 to keep our feet healthy. 915 00:50:48,400 --> 00:50:53,640 90% of women, for instance, are wearing shoes too small for them. 916 00:50:53,640 --> 00:50:56,360 Podiatrist Matthew Fitzpatrick believes 917 00:50:56,360 --> 00:50:59,320 that some very common ailments can be sorted 918 00:50:59,320 --> 00:51:01,920 by simply wearing the right footwear. 919 00:51:01,920 --> 00:51:05,000 We have come to a bowling alley to check out people's feet. 920 00:51:06,360 --> 00:51:07,960 First up is Annetta. 921 00:51:09,280 --> 00:51:11,200 Shall we have a look at this foot of yours? 922 00:51:11,200 --> 00:51:14,000 Yes. OK, pop it up, let's have a look. 923 00:51:14,000 --> 00:51:17,600 Bunions. Uncomfortable? 924 00:51:17,600 --> 00:51:20,480 It's very painful. What is a bunion? 925 00:51:20,480 --> 00:51:25,200 A bunion is a deformity that is around the big toe joint 926 00:51:25,200 --> 00:51:27,400 so what causes it is both hereditary 927 00:51:27,400 --> 00:51:29,080 so it can run in the family, 928 00:51:29,080 --> 00:51:32,920 but tight-fitting footwear can lead to stress and strain 929 00:51:32,920 --> 00:51:37,120 around the soft tissues and so this area here 930 00:51:37,120 --> 00:51:38,720 becomes more prone to rubbing, 931 00:51:38,720 --> 00:51:41,320 that rubbing becomes irritated and red and inflamed 932 00:51:41,320 --> 00:51:42,920 and that becomes painful. 933 00:51:42,920 --> 00:51:47,400 So, what can Annetta do to relieve the discomfort? 934 00:51:47,400 --> 00:51:52,440 So, a lot of the discomfort can be managed by the right shoes. 935 00:51:52,440 --> 00:51:55,960 Because when you are wearing tighter fitting shoes, it is going to rub 936 00:51:55,960 --> 00:51:58,760 and that rubbing can cause redness, swelling and pain. 937 00:52:01,120 --> 00:52:03,440 Women are more susceptible to bunions than men 938 00:52:03,440 --> 00:52:07,600 because high heels and pointy-toed shoes make the condition worse. 939 00:52:07,600 --> 00:52:08,800 Next up is Hitesh, 940 00:52:08,800 --> 00:52:12,280 who thinks he may be struggling with athletes' foot, 941 00:52:12,280 --> 00:52:13,840 a fungal infection. 942 00:52:13,840 --> 00:52:16,680 So, where is the bit that you think is causing the most problems? 943 00:52:16,680 --> 00:52:18,920 In between the toes here. 944 00:52:18,920 --> 00:52:20,760 In between the two toes there. OK. 945 00:52:20,760 --> 00:52:24,480 It gets really annoying because at some points you are itching so much. 946 00:52:24,480 --> 00:52:27,160 So, when a fungal element has developed, 947 00:52:27,160 --> 00:52:29,560 what does it like? Warm, dark and damp. 948 00:52:29,560 --> 00:52:31,960 A shoe is a perfect place to do that. Yeah. 949 00:52:31,960 --> 00:52:35,400 So, what you want to do is make that an inhospitable environment. 950 00:52:35,400 --> 00:52:37,480 Shoes get damp so what you shouldn't do 951 00:52:37,480 --> 00:52:39,680 is wear the same pair of shoes two days running 952 00:52:39,680 --> 00:52:42,000 cos shoes need time to dry out. Oh, I see. 953 00:52:44,840 --> 00:52:49,200 We all sweat around half a pint of fluid from our feet every day. 954 00:52:49,200 --> 00:52:52,080 So, wearing shoes made of a breathable material 955 00:52:52,080 --> 00:52:53,640 like leather also helps. 956 00:52:54,920 --> 00:52:58,680 One problem we all face is getting our shoe size wrong. 957 00:52:58,680 --> 00:53:03,520 Luke Scott believes he takes a size ten bowling shoe. 958 00:53:03,520 --> 00:53:06,160 Luke tells me he is ready to go for a bowl. 959 00:53:06,160 --> 00:53:07,840 Size ten shoes. 960 00:53:07,840 --> 00:53:10,800 Shall we see? Is that right? 961 00:53:10,800 --> 00:53:15,120 Luke is actually a UK 11 and not a UK ten. 962 00:53:15,120 --> 00:53:17,240 So, Luke, why have you been wearing a ten? 963 00:53:17,240 --> 00:53:19,840 I wear a ten in trainers and I wear 11 in shoes. 964 00:53:19,840 --> 00:53:22,600 Aha, so that's a really good point 965 00:53:22,600 --> 00:53:24,000 cos what we're finding now 966 00:53:24,000 --> 00:53:27,080 is manufacturers' sizes are specific to the manufacturer, 967 00:53:27,080 --> 00:53:30,960 not generically across all so don't buy the shoe size 968 00:53:30,960 --> 00:53:34,280 that you think you are - buy the shoe that fits. 969 00:53:34,280 --> 00:53:36,560 But also it is about when you get your shoes measured 970 00:53:36,560 --> 00:53:39,880 and what we always advise is do it at the end of the day, 971 00:53:39,880 --> 00:53:41,080 in the afternoon, 972 00:53:41,080 --> 00:53:43,640 because throughout the day, our feet will slightly swell 973 00:53:43,640 --> 00:53:46,040 so if you measure your feet first thing in the morning, 974 00:53:46,040 --> 00:53:48,720 you might get one size, you'll buy a perfect shoe that fits, 975 00:53:48,720 --> 00:53:51,840 but if you wear them all day, they'll get tight. 976 00:53:51,840 --> 00:53:56,320 So, next time you are buying a pair of shoes or even going bowling, 977 00:53:56,320 --> 00:54:00,560 remember to take the time to find the shoe that fits. 978 00:54:10,120 --> 00:54:13,880 At the New Balance factory on the edge of the Lake District, 979 00:54:13,880 --> 00:54:17,000 I have been making my very own pair of trainers. 980 00:54:17,000 --> 00:54:19,440 Having joined the team in Cutting, 981 00:54:19,440 --> 00:54:21,880 I have now made it all the way round the production line 982 00:54:21,880 --> 00:54:23,480 to Sole Fitting. 983 00:54:23,480 --> 00:54:26,600 My trainer and sole have had glue pasted on 984 00:54:26,600 --> 00:54:29,760 and put through a cement drier to activate. 985 00:54:29,760 --> 00:54:32,560 Now it is time to stick them together. 986 00:54:32,560 --> 00:54:35,840 And that is Carl Dryden's job with his sole press machine. 987 00:54:35,840 --> 00:54:38,640 No, no, no, let me do it! Like that? 988 00:54:38,640 --> 00:54:41,880 No. Tell me. Like that. 989 00:54:41,880 --> 00:54:44,040 And you get the sole like that 990 00:54:44,040 --> 00:54:47,560 and you put it on like that. I see, I see, I see. 991 00:54:47,560 --> 00:54:51,160 So, hold it, bend the toe towards it, 992 00:54:51,160 --> 00:54:55,880 get that in there, line it up and get this in there. 993 00:54:56,960 --> 00:55:00,440 You turn it upside down. Heel first, upside down. 994 00:55:01,640 --> 00:55:04,120 And then press that button. Whoa! 995 00:55:04,120 --> 00:55:08,440 Whoa! Goodbye, shoe! 996 00:55:08,440 --> 00:55:10,720 'The compression machine fills with air, 997 00:55:10,720 --> 00:55:13,040 'forcing the glued sole to the upper 998 00:55:13,040 --> 00:55:15,760 'with a pressure that is like the weight of a rhino 999 00:55:15,760 --> 00:55:17,440 'pressing down on it.' 1000 00:55:17,440 --> 00:55:19,720 That's my shoe. That's my shoe. 1001 00:55:21,360 --> 00:55:23,000 And then just... Yeah. 1002 00:55:27,840 --> 00:55:30,560 Ha-ha! 1003 00:55:30,560 --> 00:55:33,040 INDISTINCT I made this shoe. 1004 00:55:34,080 --> 00:55:36,280 I made this shoe right from the very beginning. 1005 00:55:38,080 --> 00:55:43,040 My shoes are complete, 34 minutes after I began making them. 1006 00:55:43,040 --> 00:55:45,320 But they need one last inspection 1007 00:55:45,320 --> 00:55:47,920 and that's done by Kerry Hoskins. 1008 00:55:47,920 --> 00:55:51,920 Kerry, my shoes are behind there, why are in that little machine? 1009 00:55:51,920 --> 00:55:53,760 It's a metal detector. 1010 00:55:53,760 --> 00:55:56,320 Is that right? Yeah. What would be in them? 1011 00:55:56,320 --> 00:55:59,440 Needles from the machine, wire off the rougher. 1012 00:55:59,440 --> 00:56:01,200 Can we do mine next? Yeah. 1013 00:56:04,920 --> 00:56:07,240 These are mine, what are we looking for? 1014 00:56:08,280 --> 00:56:10,160 You've got to check all your stitching. 1015 00:56:10,160 --> 00:56:11,960 Make sure there's none broken. 1016 00:56:11,960 --> 00:56:15,880 Make sure your back height is right, the shoes aren't twisted. 1017 00:56:15,880 --> 00:56:18,000 They are pretty good, aren't they? Yeah, lovely. 1018 00:56:18,000 --> 00:56:21,840 Now what are you doing? Tag. 1019 00:56:21,840 --> 00:56:24,520 I am ridiculously proud of these shoes 1020 00:56:24,520 --> 00:56:27,960 and I never imagined so much work went into them. 1021 00:56:27,960 --> 00:56:31,120 I think these are a thing of beauty, don't you? 1022 00:56:31,120 --> 00:56:32,400 Yeah. 1023 00:56:37,040 --> 00:56:38,840 Careful! 1024 00:56:38,840 --> 00:56:40,600 They are Gregg Wallace ones, they are! 1025 00:56:40,600 --> 00:56:44,960 # I'm a soul man 1026 00:56:44,960 --> 00:56:47,600 # I'm a soul man... # 1027 00:56:47,600 --> 00:56:49,280 To make my one pair of shoes, 1028 00:56:49,280 --> 00:56:55,840 it has taken 8,900 stitches and used 65 metres of cotton. 1029 00:56:56,840 --> 00:56:58,840 I took 35 minutes to complete them 1030 00:56:58,840 --> 00:57:01,640 which may sound quick, but at this rate, 1031 00:57:01,640 --> 00:57:04,080 I would only make 17 pairs a day. 1032 00:57:05,320 --> 00:57:06,720 Working at full steam, 1033 00:57:06,720 --> 00:57:12,160 the six teams here can pump out a pair of shoes every nine seconds. 1034 00:57:12,160 --> 00:57:14,440 The finished trainers, including mine, 1035 00:57:14,440 --> 00:57:18,080 are boxed up and taken across to the distribution warehouse. 1036 00:57:19,960 --> 00:57:23,560 Pallets for delivery are wrapped up before being loaded into lorries. 1037 00:57:27,880 --> 00:57:33,480 At the end of the day, the factory has made 3,626 pairs of shoes 1038 00:57:33,480 --> 00:57:37,960 with a total retail value of over £250,000. 1039 00:57:37,960 --> 00:57:40,760 Not bad for a day's work! 1040 00:57:40,760 --> 00:57:43,720 What's impressed me about making trainers on this scale 1041 00:57:43,720 --> 00:57:46,400 isn't just the speed and the volume that they make, 1042 00:57:46,400 --> 00:57:50,200 it is actually the people - from the ladies stitching by hand 1043 00:57:50,200 --> 00:57:52,440 to the guys cutting out material. 1044 00:57:54,280 --> 00:57:56,840 These trainers are sent to shops across the country. 1045 00:57:56,840 --> 00:58:00,520 People in Scotland buy more shoes than anyone else in the UK, 1046 00:58:00,520 --> 00:58:04,520 but 80% of the factory's output is exported - 1047 00:58:04,520 --> 00:58:08,920 even to shoemaking hot spots like America and China. 1048 00:58:10,840 --> 00:58:12,680 I am very proud of the shoes I made 1049 00:58:12,680 --> 00:58:15,880 and I like to think that someone, somewhere in the world, 1050 00:58:15,880 --> 00:58:19,320 is soon going to be the proud owner of those blue trainers.