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Famously, we Brits are
obsessed by the weather.

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On average, we spend over
five months of our life

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talking about nothing else.

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It's no surprise then, that we spend
nearly £1 billion on outdoor

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clothing every year.

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You're going to need that.
Oh, no.

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And few items work as hard to keep
us dry as the humble waxed jacket.

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It's an icon of British style.

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Famous worldwide.

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The jackets made in this factory
are exported to more than

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40 countries across the globe.

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Right.

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You're putting me off.

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I'm Gregg Wallace.

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You can feel the power of it.

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And tonight I'll be following
the blistering work-out...

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That's obviously supposed
to happen, right? Yes.

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..cotton goes through
to become a coat.

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This is my stand.

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That's your stand.

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And here's me moleskin pocket.
Yeah.

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I'm Cherry Healey and I'm learning
the dark art of defying a deluge.

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That is my waterproof jacket?
Yeah.

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That's breathable?
That's it.

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And unravelling
the technology behind tweed.

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I'm hanging on by a thread.
Yes.

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And historian Ruth Goodman...

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Oh, yeah!

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..investigates the fishy origins
of waxed jackets.

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I suppose if you've got waterproof
sailcloth hanging around,

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it would make enormous sense?
Yeah!

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Smell that linseed oil!

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Come rain or shine,
over the next 24 hours,

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the people in this factory
will stitch together 650 jackets.

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Getting through 2,600
metres of fabric

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and 25,000 rivets.

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Welcome to Inside the Factory.

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This is the Barbour factory
in South Shields.

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A stone's throw from
Newcastle upon Tyne.

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The guys here know a thing
or two about jackets.

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Because after all,
they've been making them

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for 125 years.

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More than 150 people cut,
stitch and rivet

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25 different designs.

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This time, we're following
production

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of one of their best sellers.

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The Bedale in sage green.

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But before we start
making our waxed jackets,

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we're going to need
a super-size batch of cloth.

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And to get that,
I'm heading 190 miles north,

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to the Scottish city of Dundee...

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..to the Halley Stevensons
textile mill.

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Every week, a lorry arrives here
laden with cotton.

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Production manager Derek Orr
is checking in today's shipment.

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You must be Derek?
Yep.

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Good to meet you.
Hi, Gregg.

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What is this, please?

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This is the roll cutting.

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And how much does
one of those rolls weigh?

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They're around about
160 kilos a roll.

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That makes each one
about two Gregg Wallaces.

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If one of those was rolled out flat,
what's the length of cotton?

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500 metres.

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That's a phenomenal amount.

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One roll is enough
to make 333 jackets.

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And there are 133 of them on board.

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Can you show me what you do
to that cotton, please? Yes.

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Come on, come on. OK.
Where do we go?

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As the raw cotton enters the mill...

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..production of our
waxed jackets begins.

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Right.
Nice and heavy.

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Our first stop is
a batching machine

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that we're loading
with our fabric.

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This feels stiff to me.

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I was expecting this to be like
a loose cotton sheet.

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This is stiff.

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No, it's the starch in the fabric
that is making it stiff.

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Why add starch?

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Just to strengthen the yarn
during the weaving process.

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Really, what you've got
is a tightly woven dense fabric.

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Why do you want such a dense weave?

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It helps with the strength

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of the fabric, durability,
and water repellency.

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Its thread count is around the same
as my bed sheets at home.

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Do we have to stand here
holding this?

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It looks like we're
getting in bed together!

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Are you all right on that side?

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Can you turn the light out now?

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There's no time for snoozing.

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We need one long length of cotton
to make processing easier.

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So we're joining five shorter pieces
end-to-end with a hefty

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hand-held sewing machine.

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So, to start, all you do is
put your foot on that pedal.

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And we're ready to roll.

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And press down on it.

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It takes three hours to create
a giant sheet of cotton

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a mile and a half long.

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Our fabric needs to be tough enough
to make the grade

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as a hard wearing jacket.

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But I wasn't expecting the process
to be such an extreme regime.

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That is on fire!

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That's obviously supposed
to happen, right? Yes.

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What's it doing?

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We're singeing off
any loose fibres.

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We're taking off any hairs
on the outside of the fabric,

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getting rid of them.

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Why can't it have a few
stray hairs left on it?

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Because it will affect the overall
appearance of the fabric

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and especially after dyeing.

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You will see it.

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The singeing machine is shooting out
gas-fuelled flames

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at 2,000 degrees Celsius.

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That's hotter than
an erupting volcano.

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What stops the material
itself from burning?

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That is flame!
Speed.

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If we slowed this down,
we would burn holes in the cloth.

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We would set the fabric alight.

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It's whipping through at a carefully
calculated one metre a second.

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It's got to be a fine balance
between burning the hairs off

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and setting light
to the whole thing?

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It is, a lot of it is
trial and error, initially.

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Have you ever set light to a fabric?

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Come on, mate,
you must have done.

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Erm, yes.

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So you're burning
all the hairy fibres off it?

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That's correct.
Give it a smooth finish?

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A nice smooth finish, yeah.

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How thorough is it?

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Almost as smooth as your head!

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After its baptism of fire,
our newly shorn cloth

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immediately gets another scalding.

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Don't tell me.

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Thermal springs?
Almost.

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So what is the temperature of that?
95 degrees.

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The cotton is plunged
into the near boiling water,

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then pulled in and out of it
seven times.

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What are you doing there?
We need to get rid of the starch.

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We are going to be colouring our
cotton and the starch would act

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like a barrier to the dye,
stopping it from taking evenly.

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But detergent alone
isn't enough to shift it.

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We're adding an enzyme to
break down the starch into sugar.

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And that makes it easier to remove.

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And then you can wash it off?

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Then we can wash it off, yes.

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The enzyme is called amylase.

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It's also present in saliva,
where it helps to break down

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the starch in our food.

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The longer you leave it,
the longer you are giving

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the enzyme to work.

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It takes 45 minutes
to dip all our cotton.

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And then it's wrapped
in polythene for six hours,

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so the enzyme can soak in.

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I don't think jackets are supposed
to be this complicated!

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We're on our way to making
water resistant coats.

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But long before
waxed cotton came along,

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another very British
fabric ruled the roost.

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Tweed!

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Historically, it was made in
the Scottish borders town of Hawick,

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where Cherry is learning
her warp from her weft.

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200 years ago, these streets
would have rung with the clattering

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sound of mechanical looms

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making traditional heavy-duty tweed.

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And they would have needed it
in weather like this.

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Tweed is famous for its diagonal
twill pattern

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and intricate colour combinations.

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But it's the tight weave of
this woollen fabric that helps it

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to repel water.

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Here at Lovat Mill,
they produce 125 miles

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of this iconic cloth every year.

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James Fleming is
the operations manager.

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Hi, James, lovely to meet you.
Hello, good to see you!

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That's an impressive
great wall of yarn.

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The great wall of yarn,
it is indeed.

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It's amazing, isn't it?

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First, these vibrant shades
need blending to help create

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tweed's complex colours.

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My goodness me!

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Yeah, OK, so the first stage here,

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we're combining
two colours together.

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What we are wanting to do is
to twist those into a combination,

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so literally just put
a twist on the yarn. Right!

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Twisting them together not only
creates a new colour,

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but also produces a thread
that's stronger and denser.

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Here, we have four colour
components for this tweed.

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The blue, the denim, a green
and brown or a bronze colour. Yes.

186
00:10:00,720 --> 00:10:03,520
Before these yarns
can be woven together,

187
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they're spun onto a drum
with a seven-metre circumference.

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Holy moley!

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Are you trying to smash
particles together?

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00:10:13,640 --> 00:10:16,320
Looks like the Hadron Collider,
this is immense!

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This is our warping machine.

192
00:10:17,760 --> 00:10:19,320
What is going on in here?

193
00:10:19,320 --> 00:10:21,560
What we're doing is, we're taking
our twisted threads

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and we're creating the warp.

195
00:10:23,000 --> 00:10:25,480
What is a warp?

196
00:10:25,480 --> 00:10:29,320
The warp are the vertical threads
that we need to begin our weaving.

197
00:10:29,320 --> 00:10:31,920
Right, so if we've got
our piece of material,

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you've got the vertical threads,
and then the horizontal threads.

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00:10:36,000 --> 00:10:39,320
This is doing the vertical threads?
Yep.

200
00:10:39,320 --> 00:10:40,920
And that's called a warp?
A warp.

201
00:10:40,920 --> 00:10:42,640
Am I with you?
You're with me.

202
00:10:42,640 --> 00:10:45,040
I'm hanging on by a thread.
Yes.

203
00:10:45,040 --> 00:10:49,600
This warp is made up of 2,000
threads, which will produce a fabric

204
00:10:49,600 --> 00:10:52,280
150 centimetres wide.

205
00:10:52,280 --> 00:10:55,040
The threads are rolled
onto this huge bobbin,

206
00:10:55,040 --> 00:10:58,800
called a beam, which will create
the vertical pattern.

207
00:11:00,160 --> 00:11:04,440
Now we're ready for them to meet
the horizontal weft threads

208
00:11:04,440 --> 00:11:06,720
on this hi-tech rapier loom.

209
00:11:07,920 --> 00:11:10,120
Oh, my goodness me!

210
00:11:10,120 --> 00:11:11,760
Look at that go.

211
00:11:14,000 --> 00:11:17,560
So we have two rapiers at each end
which are basically picking up

212
00:11:17,560 --> 00:11:19,880
the weft thread,
bringing it into the middle,

213
00:11:19,880 --> 00:11:22,120
they meet in the middle,
transfer that thread

214
00:11:22,120 --> 00:11:24,560
across to the other side
of the cloth and that's probably

215
00:11:24,560 --> 00:11:26,360
happening about six times a second.

216
00:11:27,400 --> 00:11:30,680
The loom lifts each
alternate warp thread,

217
00:11:30,680 --> 00:11:34,200
and a computer-controlled rapier
carries the weft thread

218
00:11:34,200 --> 00:11:37,240
through the gap, passing it
to another rapier

219
00:11:37,240 --> 00:11:39,000
on the other side.

220
00:11:39,000 --> 00:11:41,840
Then a bar pushes the weft
down onto the warp,

221
00:11:41,840 --> 00:11:45,480
and the process repeats, gradually
building up our twill pattern.

222
00:11:45,480 --> 00:11:47,800
It's full of colour!
It's amazing.

223
00:11:47,800 --> 00:11:49,960
Absolutely jam-packed
full of colour.

224
00:11:49,960 --> 00:11:52,640
Yeah, completely, it's just,
it bursts out when you get closer

225
00:11:52,640 --> 00:11:56,240
and you see the intricacies of
the weave and the colour mixtures.

226
00:11:56,240 --> 00:11:59,120
Ten metres of tweed
roll off each hour.

227
00:12:00,720 --> 00:12:04,360
And experts meticulously
inspect every centimetre,

228
00:12:04,360 --> 00:12:06,920
repairing any imperfections by hand.

229
00:12:08,640 --> 00:12:10,320
Wow!

230
00:12:10,320 --> 00:12:14,320
There it is,
washed, pressed, and ready.

231
00:12:19,200 --> 00:12:21,640
It is a material
that is full of history.

232
00:12:21,640 --> 00:12:22,960
It is indeed.

233
00:12:22,960 --> 00:12:25,360
And full of lots of
hard work as well.

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00:12:25,360 --> 00:12:27,720
Full of really, really odd words!

235
00:12:36,080 --> 00:12:41,160
After more than ten and a half
hours of production,

236
00:12:41,160 --> 00:12:44,880
our giant roll of plain cotton
fabric is about to go

237
00:12:44,880 --> 00:12:47,600
through its own colour
transformation.

238
00:12:49,680 --> 00:12:52,640
It's fed by hand
into the dyeing machine.

239
00:12:54,560 --> 00:12:58,200
So it's ready to become the classic
sage green of the coats

240
00:12:58,200 --> 00:13:00,640
we're making.

241
00:13:00,640 --> 00:13:02,480
Is that the dye?

242
00:13:02,480 --> 00:13:04,240
That's the colour, yes.

243
00:13:04,240 --> 00:13:06,720
Lift that out of there.

244
00:13:06,720 --> 00:13:09,160
You said it was green!

245
00:13:09,160 --> 00:13:10,680
It is green.

246
00:13:10,680 --> 00:13:12,320
That, my friend, is orange.

247
00:13:12,320 --> 00:13:14,240
Yes, because there's
three colours in here.

248
00:13:14,240 --> 00:13:16,080
There's a yellow, a red, and a blue.

249
00:13:16,080 --> 00:13:17,920
And that will make green?

250
00:13:17,920 --> 00:13:22,600
Don't mess it up, because no-one
is going to want orange jackets!

251
00:13:22,600 --> 00:13:25,720
Right, Gregg, so if you want
to take hold of that bag,

252
00:13:25,720 --> 00:13:28,440
and just lower that bag
into the tank.

253
00:13:28,440 --> 00:13:29,680
What, empty it in?

254
00:13:29,680 --> 00:13:31,320
No, no, just lower the bag in.

255
00:13:31,320 --> 00:13:33,040
What, the whole bag?

256
00:13:33,040 --> 00:13:35,120
That's it, let go of the plastic.

257
00:13:35,120 --> 00:13:37,920
You can't put the plastic in there!
It's dissolvable plastic.

258
00:13:39,080 --> 00:13:43,080
It's the same stuff our dishwasher
tablets come wrapped in.

259
00:13:43,080 --> 00:13:46,120
And it dissolves as fast
as our eight and a half kilos

260
00:13:46,120 --> 00:13:47,760
of dye powder.

261
00:13:51,200 --> 00:13:53,240
All right, all right, all right.

262
00:13:53,240 --> 00:13:54,760
It is green!

263
00:13:58,760 --> 00:14:02,240
The colour floods into the bottom
of the dying machine.

264
00:14:02,240 --> 00:14:05,960
And the cotton is dipped
in and out 16 times,

265
00:14:05,960 --> 00:14:09,600
while the liquid heats up
to a positively steamy

266
00:14:09,600 --> 00:14:11,840
95 degrees Celsius.

267
00:14:13,960 --> 00:14:15,680
As we disappear!

268
00:14:15,680 --> 00:14:19,400
Mate, if I get picked up by aliens,
can you tell my wife I love her?

269
00:14:22,040 --> 00:14:27,160
After a five-hour swim in the
hot dye, our cloth needs drying.

270
00:14:27,160 --> 00:14:31,960
First, a giant mangle squeezes out
25% of the moisture.

271
00:14:31,960 --> 00:14:37,160
Then, it travels through
a 16-metre long oven,

272
00:14:37,160 --> 00:14:40,520
emerging an hour and a half later
perfectly dry.

273
00:14:45,520 --> 00:14:47,080
God, that is red hot!

274
00:14:47,080 --> 00:14:50,600
I can't believe something
I considered as delicate as cotton

275
00:14:50,600 --> 00:14:54,200
can actually be treated
so strenuously. Yeah.

276
00:14:54,200 --> 00:14:56,040
The colour doesn't look right!

277
00:14:56,040 --> 00:14:57,840
That's too light!
No, it's not.

278
00:14:57,840 --> 00:15:00,920
You've ruined it!
No, that's plenty dark.

279
00:15:00,920 --> 00:15:03,440
But that doesn't look
like the jacket as I know it.

280
00:15:03,440 --> 00:15:07,120
Yeah, because the wax and the oil
will change that colour again.

281
00:15:07,120 --> 00:15:09,840
Right, right.

282
00:15:12,960 --> 00:15:17,120
Dyed and dried, the cotton
for our coats is finally ready

283
00:15:17,120 --> 00:15:19,600
for its all important wax layer.

284
00:15:20,600 --> 00:15:25,320
Managing director Jimmy Campbell
is overseeing this crucial job.

285
00:15:25,320 --> 00:15:26,960
Are you Jimmy?

286
00:15:26,960 --> 00:15:28,920
Gregg.
Pleased to meet you, Gregg.

287
00:15:28,920 --> 00:15:31,760
That thing there, this machine,
all this just for waxing it?

288
00:15:31,760 --> 00:15:33,600
This is all just waxing, yeah.

289
00:15:33,600 --> 00:15:38,440
We're starting near the top of
this 15-metre tall metal monster

290
00:15:38,440 --> 00:15:40,640
with a tank of liquid wax.

291
00:15:40,640 --> 00:15:41,920
This is it.

292
00:15:43,320 --> 00:15:44,760
Is there something in there?

293
00:15:44,760 --> 00:15:47,000
You haven't got a little Nessie
hiding in there, have you?

294
00:15:47,000 --> 00:15:48,760
Do you know what that
actually reminds me of?

295
00:15:48,760 --> 00:15:50,480
A deep fat fryer.
It's a bit like that.

296
00:15:50,480 --> 00:15:52,600
It looks like the chip shop.
It does!

297
00:15:52,600 --> 00:15:55,560
So we hold to the wax in here
about 95 degrees centigrade.

298
00:15:55,560 --> 00:15:58,040
Is that enough to melt it
and use it?

299
00:15:58,040 --> 00:16:00,480
Yes, it allows it
to be applied easier.

300
00:16:00,480 --> 00:16:04,000
In here, there's around
1,900 litres.

301
00:16:04,000 --> 00:16:09,440
Enough to cover all
2,500 metres of our cotton.

302
00:16:09,440 --> 00:16:11,120
What wax is it?

303
00:16:11,120 --> 00:16:13,200
It's a combination of
three compounds.

304
00:16:13,200 --> 00:16:18,280
We've got a petroleum jelly,
so petroleum jelly is like lip balm

305
00:16:18,280 --> 00:16:19,680
type chemical.

306
00:16:19,680 --> 00:16:21,720
A paraffin wax.
Like your candle wax.

307
00:16:21,720 --> 00:16:23,480
Then a refined oil.

308
00:16:23,480 --> 00:16:26,200
Refined oil like
you put in your car? Yeah.

309
00:16:26,200 --> 00:16:30,280
It's a blend designed to maximise
the water resistance and strength

310
00:16:30,280 --> 00:16:32,280
of the finished jacket.

311
00:16:32,280 --> 00:16:35,560
The hot oily wax
is pumped into a bath.

312
00:16:35,560 --> 00:16:39,640
And the cotton is dunked in,
just once, for three seconds.

313
00:16:42,000 --> 00:16:44,560
So that's just come out
of the wax bath.

314
00:16:44,560 --> 00:16:45,920
Wow!

315
00:16:45,920 --> 00:16:48,000
OK, now that is certainly
the right colour.

316
00:16:48,000 --> 00:16:50,960
That's beginning to look like
the jacket? Yeah, it is, yeah.

317
00:16:50,960 --> 00:16:54,360
Do you know how much wax
has gone on to that cotton?

318
00:16:54,360 --> 00:16:57,640
Yeah, so that's 200 gram cotton,
and we're adding about 100g

319
00:16:57,640 --> 00:17:00,760
of wax over that.
Really? Yeah.

320
00:17:00,760 --> 00:17:04,200
So a third of the jacket is wax?

321
00:17:04,200 --> 00:17:06,400
Yeah. Is your wax?
That's correct, yeah.

322
00:17:06,400 --> 00:17:08,920
And is that what keeps the rain out?

323
00:17:08,920 --> 00:17:12,120
Well, it's actually a combination
of the wax and the tightness

324
00:17:12,120 --> 00:17:13,520
of the weave.

325
00:17:13,520 --> 00:17:14,960
That's quite incredible.

326
00:17:14,960 --> 00:17:17,600
I'm surprised when people lean
on the wall, they don't slip off.

327
00:17:17,600 --> 00:17:20,040
Can I see it in its finished state?
Come on, let's go.

328
00:17:22,080 --> 00:17:27,240
Our whole batch of cotton runs
through in just two hours.

329
00:17:32,000 --> 00:17:34,640
The more you stare at this,
the less green it looks

330
00:17:34,640 --> 00:17:36,400
and it starts to look granite.

331
00:17:36,400 --> 00:17:39,520
That's the shade we started
with before waxing,

332
00:17:39,520 --> 00:17:41,560
and that's where we've ended up.

333
00:17:42,760 --> 00:17:45,640
It's taken over 20 hours
of production,

334
00:17:45,640 --> 00:17:50,920
to create enough fabric
for 1,666 waxed coats.

335
00:17:50,920 --> 00:17:56,200
They roll it into shorter lengths,
and let the colour fully mature,

336
00:17:56,200 --> 00:17:59,640
before sending it
to our jacket factory.

337
00:18:00,720 --> 00:18:05,520
But where did the idea of smearing
a jacket with wax come from?

338
00:18:05,520 --> 00:18:07,160
Ruth went to find out.

339
00:18:12,720 --> 00:18:15,760
Often, when you think of
wax jackets, the first image

340
00:18:15,760 --> 00:18:19,560
that springs to mind is muddy boots
and cocker spaniels

341
00:18:19,560 --> 00:18:22,200
and open countryside.

342
00:18:22,200 --> 00:18:26,240
But in fact, the history
of this particular fashion item

343
00:18:26,240 --> 00:18:28,640
is a far fishier tale.

344
00:18:32,040 --> 00:18:34,360
The story of this garment
starts off in the cold waters

345
00:18:34,360 --> 00:18:36,600
off the east coast of Scotland.

346
00:18:39,840 --> 00:18:43,080
I've come to the historic
harbour of Cellardyke...

347
00:18:43,080 --> 00:18:44,520
Hello!

348
00:18:44,520 --> 00:18:46,640
Can I come aboard?
Yes, you can.

349
00:18:46,640 --> 00:18:49,600
..to meet fashion historian
Dr Jane Tynan.

350
00:18:49,600 --> 00:18:53,520
What on earth is the connection
then between fishing boats

351
00:18:53,520 --> 00:18:55,280
and wax jackets?

352
00:18:55,280 --> 00:18:59,760
Well, in the 15th century,
fishermen here who were trawling

353
00:18:59,760 --> 00:19:03,920
the harsh seas were
waterproofing their sailcloth.

354
00:19:03,920 --> 00:19:07,080
So, I mean, sailcloth, we're talking
about this sort of stuff here?

355
00:19:07,080 --> 00:19:09,320
Yes, and when it gets waterlogged...
It slows them down?

356
00:19:09,320 --> 00:19:10,560
It slows them down.

357
00:19:10,560 --> 00:19:15,520
They would have used fish oils,
grease or tar, whatever was at hand

358
00:19:15,520 --> 00:19:18,440
to make sure that
it becomes waterproof.

359
00:19:18,440 --> 00:19:23,600
And then they used that to fashion
capes and hats for themselves.

360
00:19:23,600 --> 00:19:26,360
And I suppose if you've got
waterproof sailcloth hanging around,

361
00:19:26,360 --> 00:19:28,400
it would make enormous sense?
Yeah.

362
00:19:30,960 --> 00:19:35,080
But this early sailcloth was linen
and the garments made from it

363
00:19:35,080 --> 00:19:37,680
were smelly and heavy.

364
00:19:37,680 --> 00:19:40,600
Problems that were solved
when cotton sails were introduced

365
00:19:40,600 --> 00:19:43,920
on the famous 19th-century
tea clippers.

366
00:19:46,000 --> 00:19:48,920
They would have needed
to move very, very quickly.

367
00:19:48,920 --> 00:19:52,440
And the cotton was
much better for that.

368
00:19:52,440 --> 00:19:55,200
They would have treated it
with linseed oil at the time

369
00:19:55,200 --> 00:19:56,920
which was much more efficient

370
00:19:56,920 --> 00:20:00,280
than the old fish oil,
and much less odour.

371
00:20:02,560 --> 00:20:05,800
By the 1850s, old cotton sails
were being turned into

372
00:20:05,800 --> 00:20:08,720
water-resistant clothes
known as oilskins.

373
00:20:11,800 --> 00:20:16,160
And local historian Richard Wemyss
has some examples to show us.

374
00:20:16,160 --> 00:20:19,080
What on earth are these
lovely things then, Richard?

375
00:20:19,080 --> 00:20:22,040
Well, we've got some
replica oilskins here,

376
00:20:22,040 --> 00:20:25,080
what the fishermen might have worn
in the late 19th century.

377
00:20:25,080 --> 00:20:27,320
They smell like linseed oil.

378
00:20:27,320 --> 00:20:28,720
I love it, I do love it.

379
00:20:28,720 --> 00:20:31,960
So this is cotton, with the linseed?
Yes, that's right.

380
00:20:33,160 --> 00:20:36,560
Oil skin production was
big business in Cellardyke.

381
00:20:36,560 --> 00:20:39,000
There were five oil skin
factories in the town here

382
00:20:39,000 --> 00:20:42,080
so it was a significant
industry for a very small town.

383
00:20:42,080 --> 00:20:44,560
One of the factories was producing
at least 10,000 sets

384
00:20:44,560 --> 00:20:46,640
of the fisherman's oilskins a year

385
00:20:46,640 --> 00:20:48,640
in the late 19th century.

386
00:20:48,640 --> 00:20:50,400
That's quite a big
difference isn't it?

387
00:20:50,400 --> 00:20:52,840
If we think of some of
the very early fishermen,

388
00:20:52,840 --> 00:20:54,960
sort of make do and mend
and using scraps of sail,

389
00:20:54,960 --> 00:20:57,160
into a complete industry.
Yes.

390
00:20:58,520 --> 00:21:00,840
By the beginning
of the 20th century,

391
00:21:00,840 --> 00:21:04,480
canny entrepreneurs spotted
an exciting new market.

392
00:21:04,480 --> 00:21:08,560
And this seafaring staple
made its way ashore.

393
00:21:08,560 --> 00:21:11,600
So what have we got here?
This looks remarkably modern to me.

394
00:21:11,600 --> 00:21:13,120
It is.

395
00:21:13,120 --> 00:21:15,800
This is the Findlay Cape
from around 1910.

396
00:21:15,800 --> 00:21:19,440
We're still dealing with
an oilskin, but by this time,

397
00:21:19,440 --> 00:21:23,560
it's moving away from the fishing
industry, and we find it used

398
00:21:23,560 --> 00:21:27,040
by usually men for leisure pursuits.

399
00:21:27,040 --> 00:21:28,880
OK, so it's still cotton.

400
00:21:28,880 --> 00:21:32,480
It is, yes, and it's still
being infused with linseed oil.

401
00:21:32,480 --> 00:21:34,960
It's clearly made with
a different market in mind.

402
00:21:34,960 --> 00:21:38,040
I mean, this isn't rough
workman's garment, is it? No.

403
00:21:38,040 --> 00:21:40,040
This is, look at that
lovely corduroy collar.

404
00:21:40,040 --> 00:21:42,080
Beautiful, yeah.
Beautifully lined.

405
00:21:42,080 --> 00:21:43,920
I can't help myself!

406
00:21:46,520 --> 00:21:47,960
Oh, yeah!

407
00:21:47,960 --> 00:21:49,840
How does it feel?
It's good!

408
00:21:51,400 --> 00:21:56,200
This is very much the gent out
in the countryside feel, isn't it?

409
00:21:56,200 --> 00:21:58,280
Very much, yeah.

410
00:21:58,280 --> 00:22:00,760
However, linseed oil
wasn't without drawbacks.

411
00:22:01,800 --> 00:22:05,600
It was prone to cracking
and turned yellow in the sun.

412
00:22:06,760 --> 00:22:08,920
Now this looks
even more modern to me.

413
00:22:08,920 --> 00:22:10,920
Yeah, this is more
like the wax jacket

414
00:22:10,920 --> 00:22:12,760
that we think of today.

415
00:22:12,760 --> 00:22:16,400
It's a darker colour,
because instead of the linseed oil,

416
00:22:16,400 --> 00:22:18,440
it's infused with paraffin.

417
00:22:18,440 --> 00:22:21,640
So this is much more pliable,
this is an improvement

418
00:22:21,640 --> 00:22:22,880
in terms of technology.

419
00:22:22,880 --> 00:22:24,720
So when does this one date from?

420
00:22:24,720 --> 00:22:26,960
This is from around 1930.

421
00:22:26,960 --> 00:22:30,720
So essentially, then,
this is the modern wax jacket?

422
00:22:30,720 --> 00:22:32,680
It's rather funny, isn't it, really?

423
00:22:32,680 --> 00:22:35,160
I mean, you can't get
much more down-to-earth

424
00:22:35,160 --> 00:22:37,600
than a Scottish fisherman,

425
00:22:37,600 --> 00:22:41,240
in his work gear,
covered in fish scales.

426
00:22:41,240 --> 00:22:45,640
And then it ends up being worn
by fashionable, urban people.

427
00:22:51,920 --> 00:22:54,720
At the factory in South Shields,

428
00:22:54,720 --> 00:22:57,840
a delivery of waxed cotton
has just arrived,

429
00:22:57,840 --> 00:23:00,280
ready to be turned into jackets.

430
00:23:06,760 --> 00:23:09,360
I'm helping to make one
from scratch.

431
00:23:14,200 --> 00:23:16,240
My first stop is the cutting room...

432
00:23:20,440 --> 00:23:24,640
..where Gary York's been cutting
his cloth for 27 years.

433
00:23:24,640 --> 00:23:26,680
Are you Gary?

434
00:23:26,680 --> 00:23:28,720
Yes, I am.

435
00:23:28,720 --> 00:23:31,760
Right.
How do we make these into jackets?

436
00:23:31,760 --> 00:23:33,560
Right, we have to hoist it up
onto the machine.

437
00:23:33,560 --> 00:23:35,240
Right, can I do that?
Course you can!

438
00:23:35,240 --> 00:23:38,480
Is it just pressing the button?
Yup, that one's up.

439
00:23:38,480 --> 00:23:41,280
We load our roll into
what's known in the trade

440
00:23:41,280 --> 00:23:43,760
as an automatic fabric spreader.

441
00:23:43,760 --> 00:23:45,200
Keep going?

442
00:23:45,200 --> 00:23:46,360
Stop there.

443
00:23:46,360 --> 00:23:47,600
Right, then.

444
00:23:47,600 --> 00:23:49,200
This is where the fun starts.

445
00:23:49,200 --> 00:23:50,680
This control here.

446
00:23:50,680 --> 00:23:53,280
If you want to go that way,
you turn it towards you.

447
00:23:53,280 --> 00:23:56,120
If you want to go that way,
you turn it to the opposite way.

448
00:23:56,120 --> 00:23:58,000
Wow!

449
00:23:58,000 --> 00:24:03,400
The machine's job is to measure out
waxed cotton into 1.5 metre squares.

450
00:24:03,400 --> 00:24:06,520
And then we drop the clamp down,
it keeps the material in place.

451
00:24:06,520 --> 00:24:07,840
Oh, I see.
And you go back again?

452
00:24:07,840 --> 00:24:09,960
And you go back up that end.

453
00:24:09,960 --> 00:24:13,120
Just the right size
to make one jacket.

454
00:24:13,120 --> 00:24:15,200
And now we need to cut it.

455
00:24:15,200 --> 00:24:18,320
So that is the button
so you just press it.

456
00:24:19,680 --> 00:24:21,880
Whoa!

457
00:24:21,880 --> 00:24:23,080
Whoa!

458
00:24:25,000 --> 00:24:28,840
The super sharp blade
slices through our fabric.

459
00:24:28,840 --> 00:24:30,440
And back again?

460
00:24:34,320 --> 00:24:35,520
And cut, right?

461
00:24:37,400 --> 00:24:39,600
Has that ever come off the end?

462
00:24:39,600 --> 00:24:41,000
No, luckily.

463
00:24:41,000 --> 00:24:45,200
I'm helping to make one coat
but they cut them in batches of 100,

464
00:24:45,200 --> 00:24:47,560
which takes us 59 minutes.

465
00:24:47,560 --> 00:24:50,000
We could be a team, Gary.
We could.

466
00:24:50,000 --> 00:24:52,000
So, what do we do now?

467
00:24:52,000 --> 00:24:54,000
Right, we need to put the pattern on
and get ready to cut.

468
00:24:54,000 --> 00:24:55,840
If you wouldn't mind
putting that on for us?

469
00:24:55,840 --> 00:24:57,880
The pattern is all
the different shapes, right?

470
00:24:57,880 --> 00:25:00,720
Yes, it is. It is.
Turn round.

471
00:25:00,720 --> 00:25:02,960
These are all the different
pieces of the jacket?

472
00:25:02,960 --> 00:25:04,240
Yep.

473
00:25:04,240 --> 00:25:08,760
There are 23 waxed cotton parts
for our jacket.

474
00:25:08,760 --> 00:25:11,680
Computer software has arranged
them on the paper,

475
00:25:11,680 --> 00:25:14,640
so the least amount
of material is wasted.

476
00:25:17,600 --> 00:25:19,400
That'll do nicely.

477
00:25:19,400 --> 00:25:23,480
The company's been producing
this traditional style for 39 years.

478
00:25:23,480 --> 00:25:27,760
It's a complex three-dimensional
jigsaw, made up of the waxed cotton

479
00:25:27,760 --> 00:25:31,800
outer, a tartan lining,
29 studs, ten eyelets,

480
00:25:31,800 --> 00:25:33,800
and a heavy-duty zip.

481
00:25:34,840 --> 00:25:37,080
It all starts with cutting out.

482
00:25:38,720 --> 00:25:41,480
If you get this wrong,
you don't get it wrong on

483
00:25:41,480 --> 00:25:43,320
one jacket, you get it wrong on 100?

484
00:25:43,320 --> 00:25:45,200
On 100 jackets, yeah.

485
00:25:45,200 --> 00:25:47,880
I mean, messing it up must be
the most expensive thing ever?

486
00:25:47,880 --> 00:25:49,480
It could be.

487
00:25:49,480 --> 00:25:53,520
The layers must be perfectly aligned
to minimise mistakes.

488
00:25:53,520 --> 00:25:56,560
So these are now clamped down firm?
Yeah.

489
00:25:58,280 --> 00:26:02,840
Gary's using a blade that's a cross
between a scalpel and a saw.

490
00:26:02,840 --> 00:26:06,680
It's razor-sharp,
so requires a chainmail glove.

491
00:26:06,680 --> 00:26:09,360
I can see why you have
to wear that glove.

492
00:26:09,360 --> 00:26:11,920
Very sharp.

493
00:26:11,920 --> 00:26:16,640
After 42 minutes of cutting, I've
got all the waxed cotton I need.

494
00:26:16,640 --> 00:26:21,120
And now, nearly 23 and three
quarters hours into production

495
00:26:21,120 --> 00:26:24,200
of my jacket, I'm heading
from the cutting room

496
00:26:24,200 --> 00:26:26,240
to the prep section,

497
00:26:26,240 --> 00:26:29,280
where seven of the jacket's pieces
are assembled.

498
00:26:29,280 --> 00:26:30,960
Everything fitting OK?

499
00:26:30,960 --> 00:26:33,400
Janice Warner is the team leader.

500
00:26:33,400 --> 00:26:37,360
And with her 30 years' experience,
I'm in safe hands.

501
00:26:37,360 --> 00:26:39,280
Janice!
Are you Janice?

502
00:26:39,280 --> 00:26:40,920
I am, Gregg.
Can I put these down?

503
00:26:40,920 --> 00:26:42,680
You can put those down.

504
00:26:42,680 --> 00:26:44,760
Quite heavy.

505
00:26:44,760 --> 00:26:47,200
Right, what are we doing, then?
You're going to make a stand.

506
00:26:47,200 --> 00:26:49,400
This is one of the parts
that you cut out.

507
00:26:49,400 --> 00:26:51,640
We're starting with
one of the smallest

508
00:26:51,640 --> 00:26:53,360
but most important pieces.

509
00:26:53,360 --> 00:26:56,320
The stand runs down
the centre of the jacket,

510
00:26:56,320 --> 00:27:00,560
protecting the zip
and keeping out draughts.

511
00:27:00,560 --> 00:27:04,040
Is that the stand there
that's being made?

512
00:27:04,040 --> 00:27:05,840
Yes.

513
00:27:05,840 --> 00:27:08,120
That does not look simple.
No, it's not.

514
00:27:08,120 --> 00:27:11,160
So basically you are feeding
that material down two sides

515
00:27:11,160 --> 00:27:13,560
of a metal funnel?
Yes.

516
00:27:13,560 --> 00:27:16,200
All right, and stitching
them up at the end.

517
00:27:17,760 --> 00:27:20,280
How many does Joyce make in an hour?

518
00:27:20,280 --> 00:27:24,120
Joyce can make 90 of these
stands in an hour. 90?

519
00:27:24,120 --> 00:27:26,960
90. 9-0?
9-0.

520
00:27:26,960 --> 00:27:31,440
That's one and a half a minute.
It is that. Right.

521
00:27:31,440 --> 00:27:33,080
So, stands are done.

522
00:27:33,080 --> 00:27:36,080
We get them transferred
over and then Florrie is attaching

523
00:27:36,080 --> 00:27:38,160
a front stand onto
the front of your coat.

524
00:27:38,160 --> 00:27:39,960
Is that a stand and deliver?

525
00:27:39,960 --> 00:27:41,000
Yes!

526
00:27:44,040 --> 00:27:48,320
It takes 30 seconds to sew
the stand onto the front panel,

527
00:27:48,320 --> 00:27:51,080
before it's passed
onto the next station...

528
00:27:52,960 --> 00:27:55,360
..where they add two handwarmers,

529
00:27:55,360 --> 00:27:58,120
specially designed
for frozen fingers.

530
00:28:00,920 --> 00:28:02,920
Hello.
Hiya..

531
00:28:02,920 --> 00:28:04,560
This is Kerry.
Hello, Kerry.

532
00:28:04,560 --> 00:28:05,640
Nice to meet you.

533
00:28:05,640 --> 00:28:08,000
This is where we put the moleskin
handwarmers into the front

534
00:28:08,000 --> 00:28:10,120
of the jacket.
Moleskin?

535
00:28:10,120 --> 00:28:12,120
Have you ever touched a mole?
No.

536
00:28:12,120 --> 00:28:13,520
Have a go.

537
00:28:13,520 --> 00:28:15,120
Is that what a mole is going to...

538
00:28:15,120 --> 00:28:17,040
Well, I've never touched one.
I wouldn't know.

539
00:28:17,040 --> 00:28:18,320
Me neither.

540
00:28:18,320 --> 00:28:20,640
How would we know if it's authentic?

541
00:28:20,640 --> 00:28:22,840
Have your touched a mole, Kerry?
No.

542
00:28:22,840 --> 00:28:25,080
I've held a hamster,
they're furrier.

543
00:28:25,080 --> 00:28:27,120
They're furrier?
Yeah.

544
00:28:27,120 --> 00:28:29,760
Right, but it's not really
made out of moles. No.

545
00:28:29,760 --> 00:28:31,760
It's a tightly woven soft cotton.

546
00:28:34,440 --> 00:28:38,480
This clever machine has a laser
guidance system to place

547
00:28:38,480 --> 00:28:40,520
the pocket perfectly.

548
00:28:40,520 --> 00:28:42,920
And it can even cut as well as sew.

549
00:28:43,960 --> 00:28:46,720
Right, now, you're not going to
let me have a go at this, are you?

550
00:28:46,720 --> 00:28:47,880
I am.

551
00:28:49,240 --> 00:28:51,720
It is complicated,
but Kerry is going to explain

552
00:28:51,720 --> 00:28:54,720
to you what you've got to do
and how you've got to use it.

553
00:28:54,720 --> 00:28:56,880
Don't let Kerry bully me.
I'm harmless!

554
00:28:59,720 --> 00:29:01,680
How hard is this, Kerry?

555
00:29:01,680 --> 00:29:03,440
Take a seat.

556
00:29:03,440 --> 00:29:05,560
Watch your pedals.

557
00:29:05,560 --> 00:29:09,760
Press your left pedal,
you'll feel a suction.

558
00:29:09,760 --> 00:29:13,840
The powerful suction holds
the front panel in place.

559
00:29:13,840 --> 00:29:17,280
Hang on, it's now sucked
this cloth down to the table.

560
00:29:17,280 --> 00:29:18,720
Right, go on.

561
00:29:18,720 --> 00:29:20,720
So that makes sure
all the bits don't move.

562
00:29:20,720 --> 00:29:22,680
Pick a welt up.
Is that it there?

563
00:29:22,680 --> 00:29:25,640
Yeah, that's it.
That way up? Yeah.

564
00:29:25,640 --> 00:29:27,240
And then that's gotta...

565
00:29:27,240 --> 00:29:28,840
Just lie it to the corner.

566
00:29:28,840 --> 00:29:30,480
Like that there, yeah?

567
00:29:30,480 --> 00:29:32,720
And if you get the moleskins.

568
00:29:33,760 --> 00:29:36,600
Put this one on top of your welt.

569
00:29:36,600 --> 00:29:39,720
Put me moleskin on top of me welt?

570
00:29:39,720 --> 00:29:41,640
I'm sure that's an old
Yorkshire saying.

571
00:29:41,640 --> 00:29:43,280
And line that side up.

572
00:29:45,120 --> 00:29:46,720
There? Yeah.

573
00:29:46,720 --> 00:29:49,000
Press your left pedal.

574
00:29:49,000 --> 00:29:51,800
Whoa!
Just once, one at a time!

575
00:29:51,800 --> 00:29:53,560
And then do it again.

576
00:29:53,560 --> 00:29:57,240
You press once, twice, three,
there you are.

577
00:29:59,920 --> 00:30:03,200
It takes just seconds
for this hi-tech sewing machine

578
00:30:03,200 --> 00:30:07,040
to cut a slit in our waxed cloth
and stitch all the hand warmer

579
00:30:07,040 --> 00:30:08,680
pieces in place.

580
00:30:08,680 --> 00:30:10,720
God, it's the lightest
of touches, isn't it?

581
00:30:10,720 --> 00:30:13,120
There you go!
And it gives you it back.

582
00:30:15,160 --> 00:30:17,440
Of course, wax isn't
the only way to keep out

583
00:30:17,440 --> 00:30:19,240
the Great British weather.

584
00:30:19,240 --> 00:30:21,680
There's a wide range
of fabrics out there,

585
00:30:21,680 --> 00:30:25,120
and a surprising amount
of science behind them.

586
00:30:30,280 --> 00:30:32,840
From fishermen to farmers,

587
00:30:32,840 --> 00:30:35,280
from hikers to hipsters,

588
00:30:35,280 --> 00:30:40,160
we all rely on waterproof gear
when the heavens open.

589
00:30:41,440 --> 00:30:44,200
But not all raincoats are equal.

590
00:30:44,200 --> 00:30:46,960
I want to know what the difference
is between waterproof,

591
00:30:46,960 --> 00:30:49,680
water resistant and shower proof.

592
00:30:49,680 --> 00:30:51,520
And what is breathability?

593
00:30:52,920 --> 00:30:55,800
To get to grips with
the science of staying dry,

594
00:30:55,800 --> 00:30:58,640
I'm at the University of Leeds.

595
00:30:58,640 --> 00:31:00,080
Hi, Mark, lovely to meet you.

596
00:31:00,080 --> 00:31:02,480
Hi, Cherry, welcome to Leeds.
Thank you.

597
00:31:05,120 --> 00:31:09,960
Dr Mark Taylor is a world expert
in performance clothing.

598
00:31:09,960 --> 00:31:13,080
First, he wants to show me
how wildly water resistance

599
00:31:13,080 --> 00:31:14,880
can vary between jackets.

600
00:31:15,880 --> 00:31:18,520
So, what we've got here
is a shower proof fabric.

601
00:31:18,520 --> 00:31:22,440
So it would make a very nice
light shower proof running top.

602
00:31:22,440 --> 00:31:24,640
Yeah, it's incredibly light,
isn't it?

603
00:31:24,640 --> 00:31:27,800
We are going to test
this fabric's water resistance

604
00:31:27,800 --> 00:31:31,160
using this hydro-static head tester,

605
00:31:31,160 --> 00:31:34,720
which forces pressurised
water against it.

606
00:31:34,720 --> 00:31:37,440
And if you can see, there's water
coming through already.

607
00:31:37,440 --> 00:31:39,680
Oh, wow, look at that, yes.

608
00:31:39,680 --> 00:31:42,160
Higher pressure equals
greater water resistance,

609
00:31:42,160 --> 00:31:45,000
which means your jacket
will keep you drier.

610
00:31:45,000 --> 00:31:47,800
And we've got to a pressure
of 0.4 psi.

611
00:31:48,840 --> 00:31:53,440
This low psi or pounds per square
inch means this fabric is only

612
00:31:53,440 --> 00:31:55,680
rated shower proof.

613
00:31:55,680 --> 00:31:59,360
It's fine for a drizzle,
but not for a downpour.

614
00:31:59,360 --> 00:32:01,600
What about a waterproof fabric?
How does that do?

615
00:32:01,600 --> 00:32:03,440
It should do a lot better.

616
00:32:03,440 --> 00:32:04,840
So we've got one here.

617
00:32:04,840 --> 00:32:07,720
So this feels very much
like the kind of material

618
00:32:07,720 --> 00:32:09,760
that I would recognise
from a waterproof jacket.

619
00:32:09,760 --> 00:32:10,960
Absolutely, yes.

620
00:32:14,200 --> 00:32:17,240
So, absolutely no water
is coming through.

621
00:32:21,680 --> 00:32:24,760
My goodness, and this is up to 3.8.

622
00:32:24,760 --> 00:32:28,360
To keep you completely dry,
it needs to withstand at least

623
00:32:28,360 --> 00:32:30,600
ten psi of pressure.

624
00:32:30,600 --> 00:32:32,280
It looks like it wants to pop.

625
00:32:32,280 --> 00:32:33,920
We've got to 15 already, look.

626
00:32:33,920 --> 00:32:35,840
OK, wow!

627
00:32:35,840 --> 00:32:37,360
So at 17, what we're up to now.

628
00:32:37,360 --> 00:32:38,360
20 psi...

629
00:32:38,360 --> 00:32:39,360
POPPING SOUND

630
00:32:42,440 --> 00:32:46,320
This fabric is so resistant
to water, it's burst open

631
00:32:46,320 --> 00:32:48,720
before any liquid
has leaked through.

632
00:32:48,720 --> 00:32:52,200
OK, so unless you're standing
under Niagara Falls,

633
00:32:52,200 --> 00:32:54,400
you're going to be pretty safe
in that jacket?

634
00:32:54,400 --> 00:32:55,560
Yeah.

635
00:32:58,920 --> 00:33:03,160
But even if your coat is waterproof,
it can still let you down.

636
00:33:03,160 --> 00:33:05,400
Mark's going to demonstrate
the problem in his...

637
00:33:05,400 --> 00:33:07,360
hi-tech rain room.

638
00:33:07,360 --> 00:33:09,040
This is where we make rain.

639
00:33:09,040 --> 00:33:11,280
The rain's going to come
from the modified nozzle

640
00:33:11,280 --> 00:33:12,720
at the top there.

641
00:33:12,720 --> 00:33:15,400
A modified nozzle, is
the modified nozzle a garden hose

642
00:33:15,400 --> 00:33:17,160
pointed at a particular angle?

643
00:33:17,160 --> 00:33:19,680
It's been customised!

644
00:33:22,640 --> 00:33:24,760
All right, saddle up.

645
00:33:24,760 --> 00:33:28,720
This bright orange jacket is
coated in a thin layer of plastic,

646
00:33:28,720 --> 00:33:31,360
which blocks holes
in the weave of the fabric,

647
00:33:31,360 --> 00:33:35,840
the simplest way to create
a barrier against the rain.

648
00:33:35,840 --> 00:33:37,880
All right, Mark, make it rain.

649
00:33:43,560 --> 00:33:45,400
Got in my shoe!

650
00:33:48,640 --> 00:33:52,320
Whatever I put it through,
its impervious PVC layer

651
00:33:52,320 --> 00:33:54,920
means not a single drop
has made it in.

652
00:33:55,880 --> 00:33:57,160
Or out.

653
00:33:58,720 --> 00:34:00,640
I'm quite damp on the inside.

654
00:34:00,640 --> 00:34:03,240
I feel very clammy.
And hot.

655
00:34:03,240 --> 00:34:05,320
Yeah, that's the sweat
that's coming off you.

656
00:34:05,320 --> 00:34:06,560
You don't stay dry.

657
00:34:06,560 --> 00:34:09,560
In fact, you're an even more gross
type of wet.

658
00:34:09,560 --> 00:34:13,840
Which is where breathability
comes into it.

659
00:34:13,840 --> 00:34:16,880
Gore-Tex were the first to market
waterproof, breathable fabrics

660
00:34:16,880 --> 00:34:19,320
in 1976.

661
00:34:19,320 --> 00:34:23,360
Today, nearly every outdoor clothing
manufacturer has a similar fabric

662
00:34:23,360 --> 00:34:25,000
of their own.

663
00:34:25,000 --> 00:34:28,440
So how on earth can a garment
that protects you from the rain

664
00:34:28,440 --> 00:34:30,680
also allow your sweat out?

665
00:34:30,680 --> 00:34:32,720
So when the sweat
evaporates off your skin,

666
00:34:32,720 --> 00:34:34,440
it becomes water vapour.

667
00:34:34,440 --> 00:34:36,400
So this is water
in its gaseous form.

668
00:34:36,400 --> 00:34:39,600
So it's individual molecules
and they're very small. Yeah.

669
00:34:39,600 --> 00:34:41,360
Raindrops are very big.

670
00:34:41,360 --> 00:34:43,880
So if we have holes there
a little bit bigger than

671
00:34:43,880 --> 00:34:47,960
the water molecules but
much smaller than the raindrops,

672
00:34:47,960 --> 00:34:51,840
then water can't go through one way
but it can come out the other.

673
00:34:51,840 --> 00:34:56,680
Most waterproof, breathable fabrics
are peppered with holes

674
00:34:56,680 --> 00:35:00,760
less than half the diameter
of a human hair.

675
00:35:00,760 --> 00:35:03,240
Mark is going to show me
how they work.

676
00:35:03,240 --> 00:35:06,840
So, if we imagine this coffee
is the human body and the steam

677
00:35:06,840 --> 00:35:09,720
that's coming off the hot coffee
is our evaporating sweat.

678
00:35:09,720 --> 00:35:11,920
So that is my waterproof jacket?
Yeah.

679
00:35:11,920 --> 00:35:14,080
That's breathable.
That's it.

680
00:35:14,080 --> 00:35:15,600
Place it on top.

681
00:35:15,600 --> 00:35:18,480
And then we can use this mirror
to see if any moisture vapour

682
00:35:18,480 --> 00:35:21,080
or steam comes through.
Clever!

683
00:35:21,080 --> 00:35:22,920
And the mirror should
hopefully show us...

684
00:35:22,920 --> 00:35:24,120
A steam patch.

685
00:35:24,120 --> 00:35:27,320
Oh, look!
There we go.

686
00:35:27,320 --> 00:35:29,600
So I'm jumping around,
I'm doing star jumps,

687
00:35:29,600 --> 00:35:32,120
I'm hiking, I'm walking my dog,
I'm riding my bike.

688
00:35:32,120 --> 00:35:34,680
The sweat from my body
is evaporating.

689
00:35:34,680 --> 00:35:37,480
And it is leaving the jacket.
Yeah.

690
00:35:39,760 --> 00:35:41,440
There you have it.

691
00:35:41,440 --> 00:35:43,960
To weather the weather,
while staying comfortable,

692
00:35:43,960 --> 00:35:47,160
strangely, you need
a jacket covered in holes.

693
00:35:47,160 --> 00:35:49,800
Now that I understand
the terminology behind

694
00:35:49,800 --> 00:35:53,560
the technology, I'm much
less baffled by breathability.

695
00:35:58,800 --> 00:36:02,920
Back in the factory, we're almost
24 hours into the process

696
00:36:02,920 --> 00:36:04,440
of making our jacket.

697
00:36:05,960 --> 00:36:09,280
And now, we're moving onto
the main production line.

698
00:36:11,400 --> 00:36:14,480
The parts we've prepped have come
through to be stitched together

699
00:36:14,480 --> 00:36:15,520
into a coat.

700
00:36:19,680 --> 00:36:20,920
This looks busy.

701
00:36:20,920 --> 00:36:22,960
Yep, this is your production line.

702
00:36:22,960 --> 00:36:25,080
And this is where you're going
to see your jacket made

703
00:36:25,080 --> 00:36:26,560
from start to finish.

704
00:36:26,560 --> 00:36:30,640
So each one of these machinists
represents another bit of a jacket?

705
00:36:30,640 --> 00:36:32,080
Yes.

706
00:36:32,080 --> 00:36:36,640
Today on this line,
they'll sew 162 jackets like the one

707
00:36:36,640 --> 00:36:38,240
I'm helping to make.

708
00:36:38,240 --> 00:36:40,080
That's the bit I made!

709
00:36:40,080 --> 00:36:42,920
There's a bit precision
engineering gone in there!

710
00:36:42,920 --> 00:36:46,400
The flaps are going onto
the pockets I sewed.

711
00:36:46,400 --> 00:36:49,480
Meaning we now have a front panel
with a stand

712
00:36:49,480 --> 00:36:52,080
and finished handwarmers.

713
00:36:52,080 --> 00:36:54,320
Can I? Yeah.

714
00:36:54,320 --> 00:36:55,720
I see.

715
00:36:55,720 --> 00:36:58,160
That's my bit there, right?
It is, yeah.

716
00:36:58,160 --> 00:36:59,800
This is my stand.
That's your stand.

717
00:36:59,800 --> 00:37:01,600
And here's me moleskin pocket.

718
00:37:01,600 --> 00:37:03,280
That's your hand warmer. Yay!

719
00:37:05,280 --> 00:37:09,760
From here, this panel passes
through the hands of 20 machinists,

720
00:37:09,760 --> 00:37:13,200
each adding their own pieces
to our jacket shaped puzzle.

721
00:37:13,200 --> 00:37:14,840
Where are we going out?

722
00:37:14,840 --> 00:37:18,040
This, I really want to show you.

723
00:37:18,040 --> 00:37:19,680
Go on, what happens here?

724
00:37:19,680 --> 00:37:21,520
This is the front of your coat.
Yeah?

725
00:37:21,520 --> 00:37:23,960
This is where we attach
the tartan to the jacket,

726
00:37:23,960 --> 00:37:25,800
for the first time.

727
00:37:25,800 --> 00:37:29,040
The bottom pockets are lined
with soft cotton tartan.

728
00:37:30,360 --> 00:37:34,920
Altogether, there are 12 pieces of
lining that fit into the front,

729
00:37:34,920 --> 00:37:38,160
back, sleeves and pockets.

730
00:37:39,840 --> 00:37:43,480
They get through nearly two miles
of this fabric every week.

731
00:37:43,480 --> 00:37:47,440
And it's only used
for this range of jackets.

732
00:37:47,440 --> 00:37:49,920
I recognise that.
Is there a name for that?

733
00:37:49,920 --> 00:37:52,400
Yes, there is, it's called
the ancient tartan.

734
00:37:52,400 --> 00:37:55,040
Ancient tartan?
Exclusive to our brand.

735
00:37:55,040 --> 00:37:57,480
Won't find that anywhere else?
Won't find it anywhere else.

736
00:37:57,480 --> 00:38:00,120
Even in the Highlands of Scotland,
you wouldn't find a farmer

737
00:38:00,120 --> 00:38:01,680
running about with it on?

738
00:38:01,680 --> 00:38:03,920
If it's our coat, yes, you will!

739
00:38:04,960 --> 00:38:06,960
But not on his kilt?
No.

740
00:38:06,960 --> 00:38:10,880
It might be called ancient,
but just how old is tartan?

741
00:38:14,880 --> 00:38:18,560
Ruth is in Edinburgh
to trace its chequered history.

742
00:38:21,480 --> 00:38:24,640
There are thousands
of tartans around these days.

743
00:38:24,640 --> 00:38:27,600
And many of them carry family names.

744
00:38:27,600 --> 00:38:30,400
This is a McDonald's, for example.

745
00:38:30,400 --> 00:38:33,440
And a Fraser.

746
00:38:33,440 --> 00:38:38,720
It makes them sound as if they've
been around since time immemorial.

747
00:38:38,720 --> 00:38:42,960
We do at least know tartan
was here nearly 2,000 years ago.

748
00:38:42,960 --> 00:38:48,120
The oldest surviving piece
dates from around 230 AD.

749
00:38:48,120 --> 00:38:51,720
But the next history milestone
isn't for over 1,000 years,

750
00:38:51,720 --> 00:38:54,560
as tartan expert
Peter McDonald explains.

751
00:38:54,560 --> 00:38:58,600
I think probably the earliest
reference we have is from 1538.

752
00:38:58,600 --> 00:39:00,880
But it's perhaps
100 years later after that

753
00:39:00,880 --> 00:39:03,520
that we start to see
depictions of tartan.

754
00:39:03,520 --> 00:39:06,800
A lovely image of Lord Mungo Murray.

755
00:39:06,800 --> 00:39:08,320
1680.

756
00:39:08,320 --> 00:39:10,120
Wearing full highland dress.

757
00:39:10,120 --> 00:39:12,720
And here we have a number
of Highlanders.

758
00:39:12,720 --> 00:39:15,040
These are soldiers overseas,

759
00:39:15,040 --> 00:39:18,960
noted for their customs,
their manners and their dress.

760
00:39:18,960 --> 00:39:21,560
So this is Highland dress,
not Scottish dress?

761
00:39:21,560 --> 00:39:23,200
Not Scottish dress at that period.

762
00:39:23,200 --> 00:39:25,560
Have you got any pieces
that are particularly early?

763
00:39:25,560 --> 00:39:29,080
Yeah, so we've got a piece here,
it's an old plaid,

764
00:39:29,080 --> 00:39:32,360
this is probably
first-half 18th-century.

765
00:39:32,360 --> 00:39:33,880
It's really harsh?
Really harsh, yep.

766
00:39:33,880 --> 00:39:35,720
And thin!
And if you look here...

767
00:39:35,720 --> 00:39:37,840
It's thin, but it's waterproof.

768
00:39:37,840 --> 00:39:39,440
It's windproof.
Yeah, it's really solid!

769
00:39:39,440 --> 00:39:42,520
Same as denim, for jeans.
Very, very strong.

770
00:39:42,520 --> 00:39:45,160
That's a twill weave,
because it's hardwearing.

771
00:39:45,160 --> 00:39:48,600
And presumably, each group,
each clan, has its own...

772
00:39:48,600 --> 00:39:50,200
Not at that period.

773
00:39:50,200 --> 00:39:53,880
So not specific tartan
for specific clans?

774
00:39:53,880 --> 00:39:55,360
No. No?

775
00:39:55,360 --> 00:39:58,760
You had regional styles of it,
like dialect or architecture.

776
00:39:59,960 --> 00:40:04,280
There's evidence of around 100
different tartans from this time.

777
00:40:04,280 --> 00:40:07,840
But while they weren't linked
to clans or families,

778
00:40:07,840 --> 00:40:12,280
their quality and colours revealed
much about their wearers.

779
00:40:12,280 --> 00:40:14,600
The poor would not
have been wearing bright red,

780
00:40:14,600 --> 00:40:17,160
because they wouldn't
have been able to afford it.

781
00:40:17,160 --> 00:40:21,080
Only the wealthy could afford
the imported red cochineal dye,

782
00:40:21,080 --> 00:40:23,320
made from exotic insects.

783
00:40:23,320 --> 00:40:27,000
So here's a piece, beautiful piece
of the very bright red tartan.

784
00:40:27,000 --> 00:40:28,640
That's bright.

785
00:40:28,640 --> 00:40:31,320
That's particularly associated
with Bonnie Prince Charlie.

786
00:40:31,320 --> 00:40:34,480
It's a piece that he actually held.

787
00:40:34,480 --> 00:40:37,040
It's part of a plaid
that belonged to him

788
00:40:37,040 --> 00:40:42,440
that he gave to a Jacobite heroine
called Colonel Anne MacKintosh.

789
00:40:42,440 --> 00:40:44,920
Bonnie Prince Charlie
and his Jacobite supporters

790
00:40:44,920 --> 00:40:49,880
wore tartan to symbolise their stand
against the British Crown.

791
00:40:49,880 --> 00:40:54,880
So when their uprising failed
in 1746, highland men were outlawed

792
00:40:54,880 --> 00:40:57,640
from wearing Highland dress.

793
00:40:57,640 --> 00:41:00,680
Highland dress was
associated with riot,

794
00:41:00,680 --> 00:41:02,600
rebellion, violence?
Correct.

795
00:41:02,600 --> 00:41:05,360
So it's a way of sort of stamping
out what had become almost a uniform

796
00:41:05,360 --> 00:41:08,040
in a rebel group?
Absolutely.

797
00:41:08,040 --> 00:41:12,440
The ban lasted nearly 40 years
and tartan almost disappeared.

798
00:41:13,720 --> 00:41:19,600
Its eventual revival was ironically
thanks to another British king.

799
00:41:19,600 --> 00:41:21,600
I've brought you down
to Leith Harbour.

800
00:41:21,600 --> 00:41:24,880
This was where George IV
landed in 1822,

801
00:41:24,880 --> 00:41:28,680
the first monarch to come
to Scotland for 150 years.

802
00:41:28,680 --> 00:41:32,000
The king wore this fantastic outfit.

803
00:41:32,000 --> 00:41:36,120
Jacket, kilt, hose and it's said
that he wore flesh coloured tights

804
00:41:36,120 --> 00:41:38,680
under his kilt
to protect his modesty.

805
00:41:40,520 --> 00:41:43,960
George IV chose to wear tartan
to show that he was King of Scotland

806
00:41:43,960 --> 00:41:46,000
as well as England.

807
00:41:46,000 --> 00:41:49,240
And in doing so, he turned
this traditional Highland dress

808
00:41:49,240 --> 00:41:52,480
into the unofficial
uniform of all Scots.

809
00:41:52,480 --> 00:41:54,720
There were instructions
that went out to people

810
00:41:54,720 --> 00:41:56,480
as to what they should wear.

811
00:41:56,480 --> 00:41:58,360
And particularly,
they were urged to turn up

812
00:41:58,360 --> 00:42:00,080
in their true clan tartan.

813
00:42:00,080 --> 00:42:02,040
But many of them had
no idea what that was,

814
00:42:02,040 --> 00:42:04,080
because there had never
been such a thing.

815
00:42:04,080 --> 00:42:05,800
They would go off
to a weaver and say,

816
00:42:05,800 --> 00:42:07,360
"Help, what am I meant to wear?"

817
00:42:07,360 --> 00:42:10,360
The weavers by that time had quite
a large pattern book collection

818
00:42:10,360 --> 00:42:12,400
and people would just
select what they liked.

819
00:42:12,400 --> 00:42:15,440
So your Gordon tartan,
your MacLeod tartan,

820
00:42:15,440 --> 00:42:18,720
your whatever it was,
it was sort of largely

821
00:42:18,720 --> 00:42:20,360
"That one, please!"

822
00:42:20,360 --> 00:42:23,760
This was perhaps the event
that crystallised Scottish identity

823
00:42:23,760 --> 00:42:25,960
and clan symbology if you like.

824
00:42:25,960 --> 00:42:30,240
So the whole clan tartan idea
is an idea born in the beginning

825
00:42:30,240 --> 00:42:31,560
of the 19th century?

826
00:42:31,560 --> 00:42:33,720
Absolutely is.
And it all started here.

827
00:42:36,560 --> 00:42:40,440
With absolutely no family
tradition of any tartan,

828
00:42:40,440 --> 00:42:44,280
I thought I'd do what they did
in the early 19th century.

829
00:42:44,280 --> 00:42:47,800
Find one I like, claim it as me own.

830
00:42:49,080 --> 00:42:52,800
Orangey, definitely, orangey.

831
00:42:58,440 --> 00:43:02,800
Our green wax cotton and tartan
lined jacket is making progress

832
00:43:02,800 --> 00:43:04,720
along the production line.

833
00:43:04,720 --> 00:43:07,040
The front square pockets
are nearly finished.

834
00:43:07,040 --> 00:43:10,400
Now they need press studs
to fasten them.

835
00:43:10,400 --> 00:43:11,720
Is that a job I can do?

836
00:43:11,720 --> 00:43:13,720
That's a job you can try, yeah!

837
00:43:13,720 --> 00:43:15,000
Stand back!
Stand back!

838
00:43:18,400 --> 00:43:19,840
Right.

839
00:43:19,840 --> 00:43:24,520
They get through more than 18,000
of these brass poppers a day.

840
00:43:24,520 --> 00:43:27,800
Got your underneath stud
and your top stud.

841
00:43:27,800 --> 00:43:30,120
They come down the channel,
one goes underneath,

842
00:43:30,120 --> 00:43:32,640
the other one comes on top,
the clamp comes down,

843
00:43:32,640 --> 00:43:35,320
and fastens them both together.

844
00:43:35,320 --> 00:43:38,320
Top one? Top one.
Bottom one? Bottom one.

845
00:43:38,320 --> 00:43:42,400
Both separate, come in,
down the machine...

846
00:43:42,400 --> 00:43:44,440
Clamped together.

847
00:43:44,440 --> 00:43:47,520
Now I just need a pocket to work on.

848
00:43:47,520 --> 00:43:49,360
There's the pockets there.

849
00:43:49,360 --> 00:43:51,320
Where? Stop.

850
00:43:51,320 --> 00:43:52,960
There. Oh!

851
00:43:52,960 --> 00:43:54,800
Well, don't hide them!

852
00:43:54,800 --> 00:43:58,160
Right, hold them,
don't get in the way!

853
00:43:58,160 --> 00:44:01,480
You wouldn't let me work here,
would you? No!

854
00:44:01,480 --> 00:44:05,520
A light helps me place the studs
perfectly in position.

855
00:44:07,320 --> 00:44:08,600
Oh!

856
00:44:08,600 --> 00:44:11,080
You can feel the power of it.

857
00:44:11,080 --> 00:44:12,440
Right.

858
00:44:12,440 --> 00:44:14,080
Lie it flat down on the...

859
00:44:14,080 --> 00:44:15,720
Yeah.
Taut on the thing.

860
00:44:17,920 --> 00:44:18,960
Yes!

861
00:44:22,280 --> 00:44:24,240
I'm really proud of that,
can I have another one?

862
00:44:24,240 --> 00:44:25,760
You can.

863
00:44:25,760 --> 00:44:30,120
Now our studded pocket is sewn
onto the front of the jacket.

864
00:44:35,800 --> 00:44:37,560
Right, I get it.

865
00:44:37,560 --> 00:44:39,960
There's my hand warmer.

866
00:44:39,960 --> 00:44:42,520
And that's the pocket I saw put on.

867
00:44:44,160 --> 00:44:49,440
It's taken more than 24 hours
of production to get to this stage.

868
00:44:49,440 --> 00:44:51,680
The zip is fitted...

869
00:44:51,680 --> 00:44:56,720
And it finally begins
to resemble the jacket I know!

870
00:44:56,720 --> 00:44:58,360
Is it being put together here?
Yes, it is.

871
00:44:58,360 --> 00:45:00,000
Come on, come on, come on!

872
00:45:00,000 --> 00:45:02,240
We are now attaching
the two fronts to your back.

873
00:45:02,240 --> 00:45:05,080
This is the first time
that I've seen one, two, three

874
00:45:05,080 --> 00:45:07,240
of the major sections
put together.

875
00:45:07,240 --> 00:45:08,480
That's brilliant!

876
00:45:10,160 --> 00:45:12,160
And that fits perfectly.

877
00:45:14,400 --> 00:45:16,240
That fits perfectly in line.

878
00:45:16,240 --> 00:45:19,480
These girls are so skilled
that very rarely we ever

879
00:45:19,480 --> 00:45:20,720
get any mistakes.

880
00:45:21,920 --> 00:45:25,800
We've got 18 of our waxed cotton
puzzle pieces in place.

881
00:45:25,800 --> 00:45:28,520
But there are a couple
of vital elements missing.

882
00:45:28,520 --> 00:45:29,640
The sleeves!

883
00:45:33,080 --> 00:45:34,520
Now...

884
00:45:34,520 --> 00:45:36,600
This looks tricky, the sleeves.
It is.

885
00:45:36,600 --> 00:45:38,840
Because there's
no pattern to follow.

886
00:45:38,840 --> 00:45:41,040
Christine knows which is the back
of the sleeve and the front

887
00:45:41,040 --> 00:45:42,640
of the sleeve.

888
00:45:42,640 --> 00:45:45,920
So the sleeve actually follows
the shape of the jacket.

889
00:45:45,920 --> 00:45:47,920
But there's still no
collar on it, right?

890
00:45:47,920 --> 00:45:49,560
Collar goes on it
in your next stage.

891
00:45:49,560 --> 00:45:52,000
Over here?
Yes.

892
00:45:52,000 --> 00:45:54,600
The collar is the last
piece to attach.

893
00:45:54,600 --> 00:45:56,320
It has two layers.

894
00:45:56,320 --> 00:45:58,480
Waxed cotton below,
and around the neck,

895
00:45:58,480 --> 00:46:00,680
hardwearing corduroy.

896
00:46:00,680 --> 00:46:02,560
Oh, let me see!

897
00:46:02,560 --> 00:46:05,120
One with the finished collar
on it, please?

898
00:46:07,840 --> 00:46:10,040
Hang on...

899
00:46:10,040 --> 00:46:11,280
But it's got no...

900
00:46:11,280 --> 00:46:13,320
Studs on it?

901
00:46:13,320 --> 00:46:18,320
And that is obviously not finished.

902
00:46:18,320 --> 00:46:21,440
The hem and the studs is done
in the finishing section.

903
00:46:21,440 --> 00:46:22,880
Finishing section?
Finishing section.

904
00:46:22,880 --> 00:46:24,680
Does that actually mean the finish?
Yes.

905
00:46:24,680 --> 00:46:26,720
Do you want to pick it up
and take them?

906
00:46:26,720 --> 00:46:28,960
Are you coming there? No.
We've finished.

907
00:46:28,960 --> 00:46:30,880
We've finished too?
We've finished too.

908
00:46:30,880 --> 00:46:32,680
Thank you so much.
Thank you.

909
00:46:37,400 --> 00:46:40,960
Of course, waxed jackets are only
one way to stay dry.

910
00:46:40,960 --> 00:46:44,800
Another popular way to keep
off the rain is the humble umbrella.

911
00:46:44,800 --> 00:46:50,080
We spend an astonishing
£10 million on them every year.

912
00:46:50,080 --> 00:46:52,920
Cherry is finding out
how they're made.

913
00:46:54,520 --> 00:46:57,200
If the weather is looking
a little bit dodgy outside,

914
00:46:57,200 --> 00:47:00,400
I will not leave the house
without my trusty umbrella.

915
00:47:00,400 --> 00:47:04,880
The simple technology has saved
my skin on many an occasion.

916
00:47:04,880 --> 00:47:06,920
All right, you can stop now.

917
00:47:06,920 --> 00:47:08,360
Thank you.

918
00:47:11,240 --> 00:47:16,640
Fox Umbrellas have been
handcrafting brollies since 1868.

919
00:47:16,640 --> 00:47:19,920
Their components and manufacturing
methods have barely changed

920
00:47:19,920 --> 00:47:22,520
in 150 years.

921
00:47:22,520 --> 00:47:24,600
Today, factory owner John Garrett...

922
00:47:24,600 --> 00:47:26,640
Hi, John.
Hi, how are you doing?

923
00:47:26,640 --> 00:47:30,080
..oversees production
of 400 brollies a week.

924
00:47:30,080 --> 00:47:33,240
Each and every one begins
with the handle.

925
00:47:33,240 --> 00:47:35,320
This is where we choose
what wood we're going to use.

926
00:47:35,320 --> 00:47:36,840
Oh, beautiful, wow!

927
00:47:38,360 --> 00:47:40,720
Isn't that beautiful?

928
00:47:40,720 --> 00:47:43,960
I've got 15 different woods
to choose from.

929
00:47:43,960 --> 00:47:48,480
I love that one, because it's got
lots of interesting markings on it.

930
00:47:48,480 --> 00:47:50,240
That's maple.

931
00:47:50,240 --> 00:47:52,880
It's got lovely graining in it,
very strong.

932
00:47:52,880 --> 00:47:56,920
Not only is it strong,
but maple is also very supple

933
00:47:56,920 --> 00:47:58,880
and easy to work with.

934
00:47:58,880 --> 00:48:02,080
The first job is to cut
my stick to size.

935
00:48:02,080 --> 00:48:03,720
What an amazing machine.

936
00:48:03,720 --> 00:48:05,000
It's about 100 years old.

937
00:48:05,000 --> 00:48:06,880
That's absolutely incredible.

938
00:48:06,880 --> 00:48:10,920
We'll use a belt-driven circular saw
to trim it to precisely

939
00:48:10,920 --> 00:48:12,960
36 inches in length.

940
00:48:12,960 --> 00:48:15,600
It's the perfect height
for the average person.

941
00:48:15,600 --> 00:48:18,680
Oh, my God, I really don't
want to mess it up.

942
00:48:18,680 --> 00:48:20,680
Keep it on the blade.

943
00:48:20,680 --> 00:48:25,920
This machine has made brollies
for some illustrious customers,

944
00:48:25,920 --> 00:48:30,320
from members of the royal family
to US President John F Kennedy.

945
00:48:30,320 --> 00:48:32,840
So the next stage is,
we're going to cut the slots

946
00:48:32,840 --> 00:48:34,160
for the springs.

947
00:48:34,160 --> 00:48:37,320
The slots will house the wire
springs which lock the umbrella

948
00:48:37,320 --> 00:48:39,400
in the open or closed position.

949
00:48:39,400 --> 00:48:41,280
Keep going until it stops.
Yeah.

950
00:48:41,280 --> 00:48:43,640
And then pull away.

951
00:48:43,640 --> 00:48:48,520
The blade cuts an 8.5cm-long
channel into the wood.

952
00:48:48,520 --> 00:48:49,960
Did it work? It worked.

953
00:48:49,960 --> 00:48:51,280
I feel so proud!

954
00:48:52,480 --> 00:48:56,000
Then simple steel springs
are hammered into the groove.

955
00:48:56,000 --> 00:49:00,000
And a runner is slid onto the stick.

956
00:49:00,000 --> 00:49:02,920
So this locks in place here
on this spring.

957
00:49:02,920 --> 00:49:05,600
And then the top spring
locks it in place there.

958
00:49:05,600 --> 00:49:10,280
It's so simple and yet
so brilliant and elegant.

959
00:49:10,280 --> 00:49:13,080
The next job is to attach
the steel frame, which will

960
00:49:13,080 --> 00:49:14,920
support the canopy.

961
00:49:14,920 --> 00:49:17,240
This is like the skeleton
of the umbrella.

962
00:49:17,240 --> 00:49:20,040
These are the ribs. And then
you've got kind of hinge here.

963
00:49:20,040 --> 00:49:22,640
A hinge, so this is the stretcher
part, so this is what pushes

964
00:49:22,640 --> 00:49:24,960
out the canopy.

965
00:49:24,960 --> 00:49:27,920
Now, the fiddly task
of attaching my stretchers

966
00:49:27,920 --> 00:49:31,560
to the runner
with one-millimetre-thick wire.

967
00:49:31,560 --> 00:49:33,640
Get that second one in,
you've got that.

968
00:49:33,640 --> 00:49:35,440
Then that one gets...
First one's come out.

969
00:49:35,440 --> 00:49:37,680
Then that's come out.
So, yeah.

970
00:49:37,680 --> 00:49:39,880
Then move, hold your index finger
and hold that one,

971
00:49:39,880 --> 00:49:41,120
yeah, perfect.

972
00:49:41,120 --> 00:49:42,320
This is...

973
00:49:42,320 --> 00:49:44,400
You've lost one.

974
00:49:44,400 --> 00:49:47,400
Oh no, they've all come off.
They've all come off.

975
00:49:47,400 --> 00:49:49,040
That's going in, you stay in there!

976
00:49:49,040 --> 00:49:51,000
Keep the umbrella pointing down.
That way?

977
00:49:51,000 --> 00:49:52,480
No, that way!

978
00:49:52,480 --> 00:49:55,080
It's definitely a job
for the professional.

979
00:49:55,080 --> 00:49:56,760
There we go!

980
00:49:56,760 --> 00:50:00,000
All right! Then we're going
to use the cutters.

981
00:50:04,720 --> 00:50:08,240
Stretchers attached,
fixing the ribs is straightforward.

982
00:50:08,240 --> 00:50:11,600
Oh, that is fabulous.

983
00:50:11,600 --> 00:50:14,240
It's more kind of helicopter
than an umbrella, isn't it?

984
00:50:14,240 --> 00:50:15,800
I think we need to put
a cover on it.

985
00:50:15,800 --> 00:50:17,360
I think I'd get a few
funny looks if I walked

986
00:50:17,360 --> 00:50:19,080
down the street like this.
You would.

987
00:50:20,360 --> 00:50:24,000
Next door, eight panels
of lightweight, waterproof polyester

988
00:50:24,000 --> 00:50:27,120
are being cut out for my canopy.

989
00:50:27,120 --> 00:50:31,280
The waterproofing process is done
when the fabric is woven together.

990
00:50:31,280 --> 00:50:33,880
So then it will be sealed
with the repellency.

991
00:50:33,880 --> 00:50:37,360
So it's an actual chemical and
also the way the material is made

992
00:50:37,360 --> 00:50:39,080
is waterproof?
Exactly.

993
00:50:39,080 --> 00:50:41,320
And not only that,
we use waterproof thread as well.

994
00:50:41,320 --> 00:50:45,280
So when it's all stitched together,
the thread is waterproof as well.

995
00:50:45,280 --> 00:50:46,720
Ta-da!

996
00:50:46,720 --> 00:50:49,560
And there's your cover.

997
00:50:49,560 --> 00:50:54,240
A team of highly skilled machinists
stitch our panels together.

998
00:50:55,440 --> 00:50:56,680
Look at that.

999
00:50:56,680 --> 00:50:58,920
That was so fast!

1000
00:50:58,920 --> 00:51:01,960
And it's absolutely perfect.

1001
00:51:01,960 --> 00:51:05,480
At last, my frame and canopy
are brought together and it's time

1002
00:51:05,480 --> 00:51:07,240
to attach the tips.

1003
00:51:07,240 --> 00:51:09,680
You're just pulling it up
and hooking it over.

1004
00:51:10,720 --> 00:51:12,520
It really hurts.

1005
00:51:15,160 --> 00:51:18,200
OK, you can do the rest!

1006
00:51:18,200 --> 00:51:22,480
If it's not tight enough,
we'll get a droopy canopy.

1007
00:51:22,480 --> 00:51:25,560
Once it's in place,
I need to iron out any creases...

1008
00:51:25,560 --> 00:51:28,320
Just that little bit there, yeah.
OK.

1009
00:51:28,320 --> 00:51:30,600
..before the finishing touch
is added.

1010
00:51:30,600 --> 00:51:32,440
You're always meant
to roll your umbrella.

1011
00:51:32,440 --> 00:51:35,880
And finally, an elegant metal cap

1012
00:51:35,880 --> 00:51:39,320
called a ferrule is hammered on
to protect the tip.

1013
00:51:39,320 --> 00:51:41,240
And there we have it.

1014
00:51:41,240 --> 00:51:45,360
After cutting, framing,
stitching and a bit of ferruling,

1015
00:51:45,360 --> 00:51:47,800
it's finally ready.

1016
00:51:47,800 --> 00:51:49,960
Does it work?

1017
00:51:49,960 --> 00:51:52,760
It does!

1018
00:51:52,760 --> 00:51:55,080
That's amazing.
Wow!

1019
00:51:55,080 --> 00:51:57,640
All I need now is to do
a rain dance.

1020
00:52:05,760 --> 00:52:10,400
Back in South Shields,
we're 24 and three quarters hours

1021
00:52:10,400 --> 00:52:12,240
into the jacket making process.

1022
00:52:12,240 --> 00:52:16,360
But there are still some
important jobs to do.

1023
00:52:17,520 --> 00:52:20,400
I'm heading to the
finishing section...

1024
00:52:20,400 --> 00:52:22,280
Look out!
Mind your backs.

1025
00:52:22,280 --> 00:52:25,240
..where I'm meeting Cath Edge.

1026
00:52:25,240 --> 00:52:26,680
Coming through!

1027
00:52:26,680 --> 00:52:28,280
Hello!
Come on!

1028
00:52:28,280 --> 00:52:30,320
Cath, are you the boss of finishing?

1029
00:52:30,320 --> 00:52:32,280
I am, yes.
Right, OK.

1030
00:52:32,280 --> 00:52:34,120
Well, I try to be.

1031
00:52:34,120 --> 00:52:35,800
They get hemmed first.
Right.

1032
00:52:35,800 --> 00:52:37,520
And these are our two hem finishers?

1033
00:52:37,520 --> 00:52:39,880
Are your Mother Hem?
I am.

1034
00:52:39,880 --> 00:52:41,520
Brilliant!

1035
00:52:41,520 --> 00:52:45,160
Well, the pressure's on here,
this is the end of the line!

1036
00:52:45,160 --> 00:52:47,920
That's to say that all the sewing
now is finished on the jacket

1037
00:52:47,920 --> 00:52:49,520
and it's ready for marking.

1038
00:52:49,520 --> 00:52:52,320
Sewing is over?
Sewing is over with, yeah.

1039
00:52:52,320 --> 00:52:56,720
Now it's time to prepare our jackets
for their final component.

1040
00:52:59,680 --> 00:53:01,600
This lady is drawing
all over your coats.

1041
00:53:01,600 --> 00:53:03,640
Yes, this is Michelle,
she does all the marking

1042
00:53:03,640 --> 00:53:05,320
on the jackets.

1043
00:53:05,320 --> 00:53:07,880
She'll use a yellow chalk
pencil so you know exactly

1044
00:53:07,880 --> 00:53:10,360
where to put the studs.

1045
00:53:10,360 --> 00:53:12,920
Every jacket is unique,
so it's essential

1046
00:53:12,920 --> 00:53:15,400
they're hand-finished.

1047
00:53:15,400 --> 00:53:18,160
These studs need to be
lined up perfectly.

1048
00:53:18,160 --> 00:53:21,640
And by now, I should have my eye in.

1049
00:53:21,640 --> 00:53:24,160
We'll start with the collar.

1050
00:53:24,160 --> 00:53:27,600
Stud, stud the back
and then stud that one.

1051
00:53:27,600 --> 00:53:29,560
Straight onto the yellow
chalk marks.

1052
00:53:29,560 --> 00:53:32,120
Same as I did the pockets?
Yes.

1053
00:53:32,120 --> 00:53:33,800
So once, that's it...

1054
00:53:33,800 --> 00:53:35,520
Oh, yeah!

1055
00:53:35,520 --> 00:53:37,080
Stud away!

1056
00:53:39,800 --> 00:53:41,400
How do you think I'm doing?

1057
00:53:41,400 --> 00:53:42,640
Bit slow.

1058
00:53:42,640 --> 00:53:45,120
So how long should it take someone
to do what I just did?

1059
00:53:45,120 --> 00:53:47,400
Half a minute.
30 seconds.

1060
00:53:47,400 --> 00:53:48,960
Really?

1061
00:53:48,960 --> 00:53:51,200
You're putting me off.
Go and get a cup of tea

1062
00:53:51,200 --> 00:53:53,000
and I'll come back
and I'll have a few for you.

1063
00:53:53,000 --> 00:53:54,640
I'm going home in a minute, love.

1064
00:53:54,640 --> 00:53:56,240
You haven't finished yet.
Oh, hang on.

1065
00:53:56,240 --> 00:53:57,680
Haven't finished yet.

1066
00:53:57,680 --> 00:53:59,280
Then you turn it.

1067
00:53:59,280 --> 00:54:00,720
This is the eyelet machine.

1068
00:54:00,720 --> 00:54:03,160
So Lindsay puts the eyelets in.

1069
00:54:03,160 --> 00:54:06,200
And then Maureen will
put the top studs in.

1070
00:54:06,200 --> 00:54:09,040
And that's the jacket
complete on studs.

1071
00:54:11,880 --> 00:54:14,880
With all its separate pieces
sewn into place,

1072
00:54:14,880 --> 00:54:18,600
this highly complex
3D jigsaw is complete.

1073
00:54:21,680 --> 00:54:26,720
My jacket and the last of the day's
batch now need checking and packing.

1074
00:54:28,080 --> 00:54:31,600
So we're taking them
to the inspection department.

1075
00:54:36,560 --> 00:54:39,240
This is the final inspection.

1076
00:54:39,240 --> 00:54:40,920
You scan it just to get
onto the screen.

1077
00:54:40,920 --> 00:54:42,360
Why do you bar code them?

1078
00:54:42,360 --> 00:54:44,520
It's just in case
they come back with a fault.

1079
00:54:44,520 --> 00:54:47,280
So if there was a problem
with the studs that I put on,

1080
00:54:47,280 --> 00:54:50,600
that bar code can
trace it back to me? Yeah.

1081
00:54:50,600 --> 00:54:53,520
Seriously, Cath?
I'll give you a ring!

1082
00:54:53,520 --> 00:54:56,360
That bar code is your jacket's DNA.

1083
00:54:56,360 --> 00:54:57,480
Yeah, it is.

1084
00:54:57,480 --> 00:55:00,240
Right, show me what you're
checking for. Right.

1085
00:55:00,240 --> 00:55:02,680
Check for any weaving faults.

1086
00:55:02,680 --> 00:55:04,920
Washers on the eyelets.

1087
00:55:04,920 --> 00:55:07,240
Fold it in half.

1088
00:55:07,240 --> 00:55:08,960
Check the back of your collar.

1089
00:55:08,960 --> 00:55:10,600
Check the eyelets on the pocket.

1090
00:55:10,600 --> 00:55:12,560
Put your hand in the pocket.

1091
00:55:12,560 --> 00:55:14,160
And zip it up.

1092
00:55:16,480 --> 00:55:20,760
The team is so experienced,
they can examine every centimetre

1093
00:55:20,760 --> 00:55:22,760
in just two minutes.

1094
00:55:22,760 --> 00:55:25,000
Do you have to do this on
every single one, or just...?

1095
00:55:25,000 --> 00:55:26,840
Yes.
Every single one?

1096
00:55:26,840 --> 00:55:29,160
Every single jacket.
Right, right, right.

1097
00:55:29,160 --> 00:55:31,520
And then you just fold it in half.

1098
00:55:31,520 --> 00:55:34,560
Do you want a bag?
Yes, I do want a bag, yeah.

1099
00:55:35,840 --> 00:55:37,240
That's it.

1100
00:55:37,240 --> 00:55:40,000
I couldn't even get
the bag the right way up.

1101
00:55:40,000 --> 00:55:42,080
I couldn't even do the bag!

1102
00:55:42,080 --> 00:55:43,480
Pop that into the bag.

1103
00:55:46,560 --> 00:55:48,760
That's your jacket complete.

1104
00:55:52,440 --> 00:55:54,280
Right, Gregg, that's
the security tag on. Right.

1105
00:55:54,280 --> 00:55:56,240
That's ready for dispatch.

1106
00:55:56,240 --> 00:55:57,600
Over there, right?
Yeah.

1107
00:55:57,600 --> 00:55:58,920
Leave this with me.

1108
00:55:58,920 --> 00:56:00,760
Cath, thank you, thank you so much.
No problem.

1109
00:56:02,000 --> 00:56:06,240
Jackets finished, I'm taking them
through to the dispatch area...

1110
00:56:06,240 --> 00:56:08,680
Coming through,
with a perfect batch!

1111
00:56:08,680 --> 00:56:11,200
Exceptional stud work.

1112
00:56:11,200 --> 00:56:14,160
..where I'm meeting
company vice-chairman

1113
00:56:14,160 --> 00:56:16,200
Helen Barbour.

1114
00:56:16,200 --> 00:56:20,200
Now, you must be Helen?
I am.

1115
00:56:20,200 --> 00:56:22,760
This might be the smallest
dispatch area I have ever seen.

1116
00:56:22,760 --> 00:56:25,080
We send out 650 jackets a day.

1117
00:56:27,520 --> 00:56:30,800
And each cage will contain
about 100 jackets.

1118
00:56:30,800 --> 00:56:32,840
That's why you haven't
got a massive dispatch,

1119
00:56:32,840 --> 00:56:35,760
because you're basically sending out
six of these cages? Yeah.

1120
00:56:35,760 --> 00:56:38,000
We have one distribution
point that takes all

1121
00:56:38,000 --> 00:56:39,800
of the jackets from here.

1122
00:56:39,800 --> 00:56:43,000
And then they're distributed out
to all over the world

1123
00:56:43,000 --> 00:56:45,080
from there.

1124
00:56:45,080 --> 00:56:48,720
The jackets head to stores
right across the UK,

1125
00:56:48,720 --> 00:56:52,160
as well as countries
as far afield as the USA,

1126
00:56:52,160 --> 00:56:56,200
Russia, Japan, and Australia.

1127
00:56:57,560 --> 00:56:59,720
Helen, lovely to meet you.
And you.

1128
00:56:59,720 --> 00:57:01,520
Excuse me, some of us
have got work to do.

1129
00:57:01,520 --> 00:57:03,440
I've got to load these jackets.
OK.

1130
00:57:05,160 --> 00:57:08,840
The beautifully studded jackets.

1131
00:57:08,840 --> 00:57:11,440
Coming through, Dave.
Where do you want it, on the right?

1132
00:57:11,440 --> 00:57:15,960
Nearly 25 hours after we started
processing our cotton,

1133
00:57:15,960 --> 00:57:20,000
it's a waxed jacket, ready to cope
with the rainy weather.

1134
00:57:25,480 --> 00:57:28,920
It's been incredibly satisfying
seeing all that goes into making

1135
00:57:28,920 --> 00:57:30,560
these British classics.

1136
00:57:31,720 --> 00:57:33,920
I thought the process
was fascinating.

1137
00:57:33,920 --> 00:57:37,200
All the way from the wax cotton
to the finished jacket.

1138
00:57:37,200 --> 00:57:41,320
But what's amazed me is,
it's virtually made by hand.

1139
00:57:41,320 --> 00:57:44,640
And then when I realised that,
how quickly they do it.

1140
00:57:44,640 --> 00:57:48,200
There is, without doubt,
a highly skilled workforce here.

1141
00:58:01,240 --> 00:58:02,680
Next time...

1142
00:58:02,680 --> 00:58:05,000
This is hard work.

1143
00:58:05,000 --> 00:58:06,520
..I'm in France,

1144
00:58:06,520 --> 00:58:10,680
visiting one of the biggest
croissant factories in the world.

1145
00:58:10,680 --> 00:58:12,400
That is fantastic!

1146
00:58:12,400 --> 00:58:15,440
That is a massage parlour
for croissants.

1147
00:58:15,440 --> 00:58:19,280
Where every hour, 18,000 breakfasts
roll off the production line.

1148
00:58:19,280 --> 00:58:20,760
You know what?

1149
00:58:20,760 --> 00:58:22,560
The more I learn
about the croissant,

1150
00:58:22,560 --> 00:58:24,320
the more I like it.

1151
00:58:24,320 --> 00:58:28,240
And Cherry learns what makes
the perfect pastry.

1152
00:58:28,240 --> 00:58:30,880
You could hurt someone with those.