1 00:00:04,780 --> 00:00:06,700 Hello. My name is Ardal. 2 00:00:06,700 --> 00:00:09,500 It is a real name and I'm a real person. 3 00:00:10,700 --> 00:00:13,660 And this is Ireland, a real place, 4 00:00:13,660 --> 00:00:15,180 as well as an imaginary one. 5 00:00:17,020 --> 00:00:20,460 There are just a few things about my country I could do without. 6 00:00:23,220 --> 00:00:24,780 But mostly, I love it. 7 00:00:28,780 --> 00:00:31,580 To help separate the myth from the reality, 8 00:00:31,580 --> 00:00:34,500 I'm going to consult this old guidebook to Ireland. 9 00:00:34,500 --> 00:00:37,580 It was written by the formidable Mr and Mrs Hall, 10 00:00:37,580 --> 00:00:39,380 an Anglo-Irish couple 11 00:00:39,380 --> 00:00:41,860 who condescended their way around the country, 12 00:00:41,860 --> 00:00:45,420 examining every facet of Irish life for better or for worse. 13 00:00:46,980 --> 00:00:49,580 "..idle, reckless...unprincipled." 14 00:00:50,780 --> 00:00:54,020 It was the drink, James, it was the drink. 15 00:00:54,020 --> 00:00:57,100 Their observations of Ireland and the Irish took root 16 00:00:57,100 --> 00:00:59,300 in the minds of their English readers. 17 00:00:59,300 --> 00:01:01,100 But was there any merit in them? 18 00:01:01,100 --> 00:01:04,180 Are we really a bunch of superstitious, God-fearing, 19 00:01:04,180 --> 00:01:08,340 whiskey-sodden chancers or are we just like everybody else? 20 00:01:08,340 --> 00:01:10,420 Well, there's only one way to find out. 21 00:01:28,140 --> 00:01:30,860 This time I'm looking into what makes the Irish 22 00:01:30,860 --> 00:01:33,220 so distinctly, well, Irish. 23 00:01:36,180 --> 00:01:37,940 In a globalised world, 24 00:01:37,940 --> 00:01:41,780 can a small country hold on to a strong national identity? 25 00:01:41,780 --> 00:01:43,540 And if so, what's ours? 26 00:01:46,540 --> 00:01:50,380 I'm starting off in a small village in County Clare to meet 27 00:01:50,380 --> 00:01:54,140 who some say are the original indigenous people of Ireland, 28 00:01:54,140 --> 00:01:57,180 predating the Normans, Vikings, even the Celts. 29 00:01:59,300 --> 00:02:03,260 Traditionally, they toured the country in their colourful caravans, 30 00:02:03,260 --> 00:02:06,180 but nowadays you're more likely to find Irish Travellers 31 00:02:06,180 --> 00:02:08,220 in settled communities, like these. 32 00:02:10,300 --> 00:02:12,940 Could they shed any light on what defines the Irish? 33 00:02:14,780 --> 00:02:17,060 And do you buy and sell the horses as well? 34 00:02:24,180 --> 00:02:27,460 This is home to a large extended family. 35 00:02:27,460 --> 00:02:30,340 And the head of the family is Michael Mongan. 36 00:02:30,340 --> 00:02:32,580 Yeah, yeah. 37 00:02:32,580 --> 00:02:34,300 He's a daredevil, that fellow. 38 00:02:37,460 --> 00:02:40,260 Michael and his wife, Maryellen, have 14 children 39 00:02:40,260 --> 00:02:44,100 and 67 grandchildren and there's great-grandchildren as well. 40 00:02:44,100 --> 00:02:46,580 CHILD: Can I go on? Pick me up! 41 00:02:46,580 --> 00:02:50,020 They've had to get used to living in houses like settled people do. 42 00:02:50,020 --> 00:02:52,780 But home was once wherever they pulled in for the night. 43 00:02:54,220 --> 00:02:56,060 And do you miss that life at all? 44 00:03:01,100 --> 00:03:02,820 What was it that you liked about it though? 45 00:03:19,420 --> 00:03:21,660 MICHAEL: 46 00:03:21,660 --> 00:03:24,540 Do you like that life, just going from town to town? 47 00:03:26,660 --> 00:03:28,020 Yeah? 48 00:03:28,020 --> 00:03:29,620 I suppose on a summer night it was... 49 00:03:31,140 --> 00:03:32,300 Lovely in the summer. 50 00:03:33,820 --> 00:03:37,540 And did you have a plan of where you would go all did you just go 51 00:03:37,540 --> 00:03:39,060 wherever your nose took you? 52 00:03:40,500 --> 00:03:43,380 I mean, do you consider yourself different from the settled people? 53 00:03:49,780 --> 00:03:50,740 Yeah. 54 00:03:55,660 --> 00:03:56,980 Yeah, yeah. 55 00:04:03,300 --> 00:04:04,380 Yeah. 56 00:04:04,380 --> 00:04:06,580 You were saying that the language is different. 57 00:04:06,580 --> 00:04:08,660 In what way is the language different? 58 00:04:11,340 --> 00:04:13,060 Cant? Cant. Yes. 59 00:04:17,460 --> 00:04:19,300 A beor? 60 00:04:19,300 --> 00:04:21,620 Right. MARYALLEN: We call a girl... 61 00:04:21,620 --> 00:04:24,100 Is that a friendly term? That's a woman. Friendly, yes. 62 00:04:26,140 --> 00:04:27,220 A lackin? 63 00:04:31,700 --> 00:04:34,540 Maryellen has invited me inside her house. 64 00:04:34,540 --> 00:04:36,340 This is a rare privilege indeed. 65 00:04:37,620 --> 00:04:39,820 Is there a lot of coming and going all the time? 66 00:04:42,340 --> 00:04:44,660 Because it's all your immediate family in the other houses? 67 00:04:44,660 --> 00:04:46,420 Yes. 68 00:04:46,420 --> 00:04:48,060 'Maryellen's living room reveals 69 00:04:48,060 --> 00:04:50,380 'a lot about the Travellers' way of life.' 70 00:04:50,380 --> 00:04:51,780 Nice pictures of horses up there. 71 00:04:51,780 --> 00:04:53,820 This is a photo of a horse. 72 00:04:53,820 --> 00:04:56,780 It's lovely and cosy. Is this your great-grandchild here? 73 00:04:56,780 --> 00:04:58,300 Oh, that's your grandchild. 74 00:04:58,300 --> 00:04:59,740 CHILD: That's the baby! 75 00:04:59,740 --> 00:05:02,380 That's the baby? Yeah, look. Yeah. 76 00:05:02,380 --> 00:05:04,620 It's the baby. What his name? 77 00:05:04,620 --> 00:05:06,060 I don't know. 78 00:05:06,060 --> 00:05:08,460 CHILD: I know his name! Jerry! 79 00:05:08,460 --> 00:05:11,180 What's his name? He's Jerry. 80 00:05:11,180 --> 00:05:13,060 Um... Spider-Man. 81 00:05:13,060 --> 00:05:16,460 Spider-Man? He's not Spider-Man! He's Jerry! 82 00:05:16,460 --> 00:05:19,940 That's a nice name for a boy, Spider-Man, isn't it? 83 00:05:22,540 --> 00:05:25,340 On the walls are photos of Michael and Maryellen 84 00:05:25,340 --> 00:05:27,820 when their children were young. 85 00:05:27,820 --> 00:05:31,700 In 1963, a government initiative tried to force Travellers, 86 00:05:31,700 --> 00:05:35,260 like the Mongans, to leave their caravans behind for good. 87 00:05:37,180 --> 00:05:39,460 You can see the pride the young couple had 88 00:05:39,460 --> 00:05:41,900 in who they were and where they'd come from. 89 00:05:43,100 --> 00:05:47,020 Now, a great-grandmother, Maryellen is quite keen to explain to me 90 00:05:47,020 --> 00:05:49,940 the traditional way in which she's dressed in the photo. 91 00:05:55,660 --> 00:05:56,740 Oh, yeah. 92 00:05:57,860 --> 00:05:59,700 And what would be in the basket? 93 00:06:05,020 --> 00:06:07,300 Oh, you make those yourself? Yeah. 94 00:06:07,300 --> 00:06:08,500 Very nice. 95 00:06:15,060 --> 00:06:18,300 For many, the nomadic life of the Travellers might be over 96 00:06:18,300 --> 00:06:21,300 but they've managed to hold on to many of their old ways, 97 00:06:21,300 --> 00:06:26,140 including the sulky carts they use for their hair-raising races. 98 00:06:26,140 --> 00:06:28,300 Do you think the community will survive, 99 00:06:28,300 --> 00:06:29,940 the Travelling community, like? 100 00:06:29,940 --> 00:06:33,340 Do you think the customs and traditions will be, 101 00:06:33,340 --> 00:06:34,660 kind of, maintained? 102 00:06:34,660 --> 00:06:37,220 No, I'd say that the Travellers' life... We're all dying out. 103 00:06:41,980 --> 00:06:43,580 You really think that? Yeah. 104 00:06:45,340 --> 00:06:48,780 If that's true, it'll be a sad day for Michael and the Mongans. 105 00:06:50,620 --> 00:06:54,220 These Travellers talk of their love and understanding of their animals. 106 00:06:54,220 --> 00:06:57,380 The affection they have for the countryside they once roamed 107 00:06:57,380 --> 00:07:00,660 and for what they saw as the freedom they used to have. 108 00:07:02,060 --> 00:07:05,980 It's all too easy to romanticise Travellers or indeed vilify them. 109 00:07:05,980 --> 00:07:09,700 But what we all have in common is a deep commitment to family 110 00:07:09,700 --> 00:07:10,940 and horses. 111 00:07:15,020 --> 00:07:18,100 It's insane to try and sum up a whole country 112 00:07:18,100 --> 00:07:21,540 or something as fickle as a people. That's just folly. 113 00:07:21,540 --> 00:07:24,940 But there definitely seems to be a strong sense of identity here, 114 00:07:24,940 --> 00:07:28,700 a lot of symbols and so forth that people broadly share. 115 00:07:28,700 --> 00:07:31,820 Now, whether these are real and rooted in our history 116 00:07:31,820 --> 00:07:34,220 or manufactured, that's open to debate. 117 00:07:34,220 --> 00:07:37,180 But one thing for sure is people in this country, 118 00:07:37,180 --> 00:07:40,700 they're absolutely preoccupied with what it means to be Irish. 119 00:07:47,140 --> 00:07:49,940 It's March 17th, Saint Patrick's Day. 120 00:07:52,220 --> 00:07:56,260 It's instantly recognisable as the day when the Irish revel 121 00:07:56,260 --> 00:07:58,060 in their Irishness. 122 00:07:58,060 --> 00:08:00,260 It's celebrated in more countries around the world 123 00:08:00,260 --> 00:08:02,100 than any other national holiday. 124 00:08:05,220 --> 00:08:08,140 It's a day when everyone the world over is encouraged 125 00:08:08,140 --> 00:08:11,300 to wear the green, a colour adopted by revolutionaries 126 00:08:11,300 --> 00:08:13,300 in the late 18th century, 127 00:08:13,300 --> 00:08:16,940 when they attached green ribbons and shamrocks to their clothes. 128 00:08:21,540 --> 00:08:24,500 The Ireland I grew up in has been totally transformed. 129 00:08:25,780 --> 00:08:28,540 For centuries, we were a nation of emigrants. 130 00:08:28,540 --> 00:08:32,180 At least 70 million people around the world have Irish ancestors. 131 00:08:33,460 --> 00:08:37,500 But in the economic boom of the late 1990s, all that changed. 132 00:08:37,500 --> 00:08:39,700 People started to come here to settle. 133 00:08:41,740 --> 00:08:43,420 In only one generation, 134 00:08:43,420 --> 00:08:47,180 Ireland went from a monoculture to a multicultural society. 135 00:08:53,980 --> 00:08:57,460 TRADITIONAL MUSIC PLAYS 136 00:08:57,460 --> 00:09:00,940 Elliott and his family moved from Nigeria 15 years ago. 137 00:09:02,100 --> 00:09:05,140 Today, he's one of the best Irish dancers in the country. 138 00:09:16,420 --> 00:09:18,500 OK. You go on ahead. I'll follow you in. 139 00:09:20,260 --> 00:09:23,020 I have to be honest. I used to scoff at Irish dancing 140 00:09:23,020 --> 00:09:25,460 when I was younger and when I was older. 141 00:09:25,460 --> 00:09:28,020 For me, it was always a little bit too wholesome, 142 00:09:28,020 --> 00:09:29,940 a little bit old-fashioned and... 143 00:09:31,100 --> 00:09:33,140 ..desexified, if that's a word. 144 00:09:34,380 --> 00:09:38,620 I was more of a head-banging along to Black Sabbath sort of guy. 145 00:09:38,620 --> 00:09:42,300 But for Elliott here, this is a real crash course in Irish culture. 146 00:09:42,300 --> 00:09:43,780 He's gone in at the deep end. 147 00:09:52,340 --> 00:09:55,220 Irish dancing was one of the art forms invented 148 00:09:55,220 --> 00:09:58,540 in the late 19th century to revitalise Irish culture. 149 00:10:00,180 --> 00:10:02,940 As Elliott and his friend Emily demonstrate, 150 00:10:02,940 --> 00:10:05,780 it's all about a controlled and rigid upper body 151 00:10:05,780 --> 00:10:08,940 and quick, precise movements of feet and legs. 152 00:10:08,940 --> 00:10:09,900 Fantastic. 153 00:10:15,620 --> 00:10:18,820 I know you're a good footballer, I know your brothers play football. 154 00:10:18,820 --> 00:10:21,460 Why did you pick dancing? 155 00:10:21,460 --> 00:10:25,060 I found out that was my talent and that's what I loved. 156 00:10:25,060 --> 00:10:28,500 I discovered it on YouTube and I found out that I loved 157 00:10:28,500 --> 00:10:30,820 doing that more than football. 158 00:10:30,820 --> 00:10:34,460 So then I kept on working towards it and I reached my goal in the end. 159 00:10:34,460 --> 00:10:37,420 Did you practise on your own in front of the mirror? Yeah. 160 00:10:37,420 --> 00:10:40,420 And so you knew some of the steps before you actually got lessons? 161 00:10:40,420 --> 00:10:42,140 Yeah. And do you do competitions? 162 00:10:42,140 --> 00:10:44,340 Yeah. All over Ireland? 163 00:10:44,340 --> 00:10:47,940 All over the world. All over the world?! Yeah. Really? 164 00:10:47,940 --> 00:10:50,500 When I was younger, boys weren't allowed to dance 165 00:10:50,500 --> 00:10:53,740 with girls a lot of the time, so you'd end up dancing with chairs. 166 00:10:53,740 --> 00:10:57,460 THEY GIGGLE That was no fun. 167 00:10:57,460 --> 00:11:00,700 It was just a big bunch of boys in a room dancing around chairs. 168 00:11:02,420 --> 00:11:05,380 I fell in love with a chair once. THEY LAUGH 169 00:11:11,740 --> 00:11:15,220 Needless to say, the chair found somebody else and that was the end 170 00:11:15,220 --> 00:11:17,220 of my dancing career. 171 00:11:17,220 --> 00:11:21,020 Fact is, these days Irish dance is scarily competitive. 172 00:11:21,020 --> 00:11:22,740 I wouldn't have stood a chance. 173 00:11:26,620 --> 00:11:30,420 Naturally enough, the Halls have an opinion on Irish dancing. 174 00:11:30,420 --> 00:11:31,620 Here we go. 175 00:11:31,620 --> 00:11:34,860 "The best idea we can give of it is that it consists in striking 176 00:11:34,860 --> 00:11:37,540 "the ground very rapidly with the heel and the toe 177 00:11:37,540 --> 00:11:40,380 "or with the toes of each foot alternately. 178 00:11:40,380 --> 00:11:43,620 "A stranger not hearing the music and seeing only the dancer 179 00:11:43,620 --> 00:11:46,460 "would be likely to imagine he was killing a rat." 180 00:11:46,460 --> 00:11:48,180 How dare they? 181 00:11:48,180 --> 00:11:50,740 They're not really appreciating the nuances. 182 00:12:00,680 --> 00:12:04,200 I'm on the lookout for what makes the Irish unique, or different. 183 00:12:06,600 --> 00:12:09,320 I suppose one of the things that have shaped us 184 00:12:09,320 --> 00:12:11,960 are the repeated invasions by other people. 185 00:12:11,960 --> 00:12:15,480 And the internal conflicts we've experienced as a result. 186 00:12:18,560 --> 00:12:20,240 Up until about a century ago, 187 00:12:20,240 --> 00:12:22,400 Ireland was part of the United Kingdom. 188 00:12:24,640 --> 00:12:27,840 Now, I'm in Dublin. The centre of a rebellion in 1916 189 00:12:27,840 --> 00:12:30,960 that led eventually to Irish independence. 190 00:12:34,480 --> 00:12:38,040 After independence, the country was transformed radically. 191 00:12:38,040 --> 00:12:41,160 Well, they painted the red postboxes green. 192 00:12:43,840 --> 00:12:47,840 Although it doesn't look like it, this postbox is actually green. 193 00:12:47,840 --> 00:12:50,480 But it has been temporarily painted red 194 00:12:50,480 --> 00:12:53,200 in order for it to be painted green again. 195 00:12:53,200 --> 00:12:55,240 "Why?" I hear you ask. Good question. 196 00:12:55,240 --> 00:12:58,720 Well, to commemorate those heady days of 1916, of course. 197 00:12:58,720 --> 00:13:00,360 Hello, Eamonn. 198 00:13:00,360 --> 00:13:01,920 And now Eamonn Dolan and I 199 00:13:01,920 --> 00:13:04,640 are going to restore it to its rightful colour. 200 00:13:04,640 --> 00:13:07,080 That's for you. OK, so let's go on and get you all suited up, OK. 201 00:13:07,080 --> 00:13:08,680 OK, right. 202 00:13:08,680 --> 00:13:12,120 I'm not allowed near a can of paint until I'm wearing overalls. 203 00:13:14,560 --> 00:13:18,000 'Hm. Obviously a very dangerous mission.' 204 00:13:19,680 --> 00:13:22,560 You feel like you have to walk like this when you're in one. Oh, aye. 205 00:13:24,640 --> 00:13:27,200 OK, have you painted before? No, not really. Not really. 206 00:13:27,200 --> 00:13:28,480 Of course you have. 207 00:13:28,480 --> 00:13:30,760 Eamonn is a professional postbox painter. 208 00:13:30,760 --> 00:13:33,120 And there's a certain technique I have to master. 209 00:13:33,120 --> 00:13:34,840 You just go in like that. Yeah, yeah, yeah. 210 00:13:34,840 --> 00:13:36,560 We're going with the curvature of the box. 211 00:13:36,560 --> 00:13:39,080 Going with the curvature of the box. OK. 212 00:13:39,080 --> 00:13:41,040 Like, why was it so important 213 00:13:41,040 --> 00:13:43,480 that we painted these green after independence? 214 00:13:43,480 --> 00:13:47,560 Well, I think... Myself now, personally speaking, you know, 215 00:13:47,560 --> 00:13:51,120 it was sort of to eradicate the whole British red of Britain. 216 00:13:51,120 --> 00:13:53,000 We wanted to move on, have our own identity. 217 00:13:53,000 --> 00:13:54,680 We have amazing history and I love that. 218 00:13:54,680 --> 00:13:57,320 Do you think we're different from the British then? I mean... 219 00:13:57,320 --> 00:13:59,960 Well, they have their own history, as well, to be honest with you. 220 00:13:59,960 --> 00:14:01,680 I mean, I love the British history as well. 221 00:14:01,680 --> 00:14:04,280 To be quite honest with you. But what makes us like different? 222 00:14:04,280 --> 00:14:06,400 Because, you know, we're very close neighbours. 223 00:14:06,400 --> 00:14:09,480 We're a small country, but we recognised all over the world. Yeah. 224 00:14:09,480 --> 00:14:12,800 Isn't that it? You know? A nation our size, what? 225 00:14:12,800 --> 00:14:14,920 Under five million. 226 00:14:14,920 --> 00:14:17,920 We're recognised all over the world. 227 00:14:17,920 --> 00:14:19,880 We always try to be different to England. 228 00:14:19,880 --> 00:14:21,120 I think that's... Yeah. 229 00:14:21,120 --> 00:14:23,120 That's the main thing when we got independence 230 00:14:23,120 --> 00:14:25,480 and in the decades before independence, 231 00:14:25,480 --> 00:14:27,840 I think we had to invent a new Ireland... A new Ireland. 232 00:14:27,840 --> 00:14:30,560 ..that was very different to England. 233 00:14:30,560 --> 00:14:32,760 I think that was the main... Like it was the main thing. 234 00:14:36,960 --> 00:14:40,560 Did you ever hear it said that green is a very restful colour? 235 00:14:41,960 --> 00:14:46,200 No. It's supposed to be, yeah. But I... I can understand that. Yeah. 236 00:14:46,200 --> 00:14:49,440 It literally, physically, is supposed to make you relax. 237 00:14:49,440 --> 00:14:51,360 Yeah, yeah. That's what I heard. 238 00:14:52,440 --> 00:14:55,280 Apparently, it actually even... 239 00:14:55,280 --> 00:14:58,200 It reduces your allergy symptoms. 240 00:14:58,200 --> 00:15:01,320 Yeah. It stimulates the pituitary gland. OK. 241 00:15:01,320 --> 00:15:05,720 Which relaxes the muscles and reduces your allergy symptoms. 242 00:15:05,720 --> 00:15:07,320 I find... To be honest with you, 243 00:15:07,320 --> 00:15:09,760 I find painting my boxes very, very therapeutic. Yeah. 244 00:15:09,760 --> 00:15:12,480 Very, therapeutic. Yeah. Either way, it is very enjoyable. 245 00:15:12,480 --> 00:15:15,040 I also do feel a little bit of a swelling of pride myself, 246 00:15:15,040 --> 00:15:16,200 to be honest with you. Yeah. 247 00:15:16,200 --> 00:15:18,480 Like this is my contribution to Irish freedom. 248 00:15:18,480 --> 00:15:21,040 No, I think absolutely. 100 years too late, but there you go. 249 00:15:23,760 --> 00:15:26,320 Over the centuries, when it comes to protest, 250 00:15:26,320 --> 00:15:28,480 we can be quite subtle and to the point. 251 00:15:28,480 --> 00:15:32,000 From the simple symbolism of changing the colour of a postbox, 252 00:15:32,000 --> 00:15:33,480 to just banging a big drum. 253 00:15:37,360 --> 00:15:39,480 Unique to Ulster, the Lambeg drum 254 00:15:39,480 --> 00:15:42,720 is allegedly the loudest folk instrument in the world. 255 00:15:42,720 --> 00:15:43,920 I can believe that. 256 00:15:45,760 --> 00:15:50,360 It mostly features in Protestant Orange parades as a battle drum. 257 00:15:57,280 --> 00:15:59,640 On the border between the north and south, 258 00:15:59,640 --> 00:16:02,640 there's a brand-new drumming tradition in the making. 259 00:16:03,760 --> 00:16:07,840 I'm being taken to meet some members of a community of a dozen or more 260 00:16:07,840 --> 00:16:11,280 Irish Japanese who have settled within a few miles of Derry. 261 00:16:11,280 --> 00:16:13,280 All right. How are you? You're the boss. I am. 262 00:16:13,280 --> 00:16:15,280 Under the guidance of Fiona Umetsu, 263 00:16:15,280 --> 00:16:17,520 they've taken up Japanese Taiko drumming. 264 00:16:18,960 --> 00:16:22,560 I made them into a body. Incredible. That's cowhide, is it? 265 00:16:22,560 --> 00:16:25,360 Yes. Are you allowed to touch these things? Oh, God, yeah. 266 00:16:25,360 --> 00:16:26,480 You don't get bad luck? 267 00:16:26,480 --> 00:16:29,040 There's something awful good about Taiko. There really is. 268 00:16:29,040 --> 00:16:31,200 I kind of think of it as a force for good 269 00:16:31,200 --> 00:16:34,400 and it brings people together and it brings out the best in people 270 00:16:34,400 --> 00:16:37,760 and it brings out a lot of really creative energy. 271 00:16:37,760 --> 00:16:40,440 I mean, that begs the question... I mean, you're obviously from Derry 272 00:16:40,440 --> 00:16:42,000 and you lived through The Troubles. 273 00:16:42,000 --> 00:16:44,280 In fact, probably escaped from The Troubles 274 00:16:44,280 --> 00:16:46,200 by going to Japan to some extent. Yep. 275 00:16:46,200 --> 00:16:49,800 But do you think that Taiko drumming has some sort of a role to play 276 00:16:49,800 --> 00:16:52,360 in the sense that it's nonsectarian? 277 00:16:52,360 --> 00:16:55,880 Irish drums unfortunately have sort of become segregated, 278 00:16:55,880 --> 00:16:57,280 which is such a shame. 279 00:16:57,280 --> 00:16:59,440 So, we do kind of refer to them sometimes 280 00:16:59,440 --> 00:17:01,360 as the nondenominational drums. 281 00:17:01,360 --> 00:17:05,080 It is something new that is kind of still being developed. So, yeah... 282 00:17:05,080 --> 00:17:07,480 It's like you're pioneering a new tradition. 283 00:17:07,480 --> 00:17:11,840 I mean, it could take off as the Japanese Irish community grows. Yes! 284 00:17:11,840 --> 00:17:16,160 That's the plan! World domination through Taiko. Wow! 285 00:17:16,160 --> 00:17:18,760 SHE SPEAKS JAPANESE 286 00:17:36,160 --> 00:17:39,840 THEY CHANT 287 00:17:51,640 --> 00:17:55,280 There's something heartening about these Irish-Japanese kids 288 00:17:55,280 --> 00:17:57,680 banging out a new identity for themselves. 289 00:18:06,000 --> 00:18:07,240 THEY SHOUT 290 00:18:14,320 --> 00:18:17,360 Wow! That was amazing. Well done. Excellent. 291 00:18:17,360 --> 00:18:18,720 Thank you! Thank you very much. 292 00:18:18,720 --> 00:18:21,120 Do you want to have a go? I don't know. I don't... I don't... 293 00:18:21,120 --> 00:18:24,360 Like, I don't want to ruin it. No. You won't ruin it. Too special. 294 00:18:24,360 --> 00:18:26,560 We'll break you in gently. 295 00:18:26,560 --> 00:18:29,080 OK. FIONA LAUGHS 296 00:18:29,080 --> 00:18:31,080 OK, and you're going to bring your right hand down 297 00:18:31,080 --> 00:18:32,360 and then your left hand down. 298 00:18:32,360 --> 00:18:34,760 So, it's like your goalkeeping stance. Exactly. 299 00:18:34,760 --> 00:18:37,160 About to save a penalty. OK. Nothing's going to get past you. 300 00:18:37,160 --> 00:18:38,880 OK, so... Are you ready? 301 00:18:38,880 --> 00:18:40,760 FIONA SPEAKS JAPANESE 302 00:18:42,280 --> 00:18:43,480 Don't be scared of it. 303 00:18:44,920 --> 00:18:47,080 OK, and then you're going to bring your left hand down. 304 00:18:47,080 --> 00:18:50,120 You're kind of bringing it down like a backhand. OK. OK. 305 00:18:55,360 --> 00:18:58,760 THEY CHANT 306 00:19:08,200 --> 00:19:11,640 Well done, well done. All right. I have it. I got it, I got it. 307 00:19:11,640 --> 00:19:14,880 You got it, you got it. You're sorted, you're sorted. No problem. 308 00:19:14,880 --> 00:19:18,000 OK, so maybe rhythm's not my thing. 309 00:19:18,000 --> 00:19:20,200 Unlike these guys, who are clearly marching 310 00:19:20,200 --> 00:19:22,640 to the beat of a very different drum. 311 00:19:31,280 --> 00:19:35,200 In a country where for so long religion divided the people, 312 00:19:35,200 --> 00:19:37,520 when it came to the issue of marriage equality, 313 00:19:37,520 --> 00:19:39,080 the people came together. 314 00:19:39,080 --> 00:19:41,040 Thank you very much. 315 00:19:41,040 --> 00:19:44,960 One of the biggest advocates for gay rights in Ireland is Rory O'Neill. 316 00:19:48,360 --> 00:19:52,400 Rory grew up in a remote town in the west of Ireland. 317 00:19:52,400 --> 00:19:56,680 He created Ireland's pre-eminent drag queen, Panti Bliss. 318 00:19:56,680 --> 00:20:01,360 And together, they opened Dublin's most famous LGBT venue, 319 00:20:01,360 --> 00:20:03,520 Pantibar, in 2007. 320 00:20:03,520 --> 00:20:07,840 I'm lucky because I can leave here. 321 00:20:07,840 --> 00:20:12,840 I asked Rory what it was like to be gay in Ireland back in the old days. 322 00:20:12,840 --> 00:20:15,560 When I was growing up, you know, in the '70s or '80s, 323 00:20:15,560 --> 00:20:17,520 I always felt that sort of queer people 324 00:20:17,520 --> 00:20:19,400 weren't really considered Irish. 325 00:20:19,400 --> 00:20:22,280 They might be sort of a bit Protestant English or something, 326 00:20:22,280 --> 00:20:24,480 do you know what I mean? They were heathens. 327 00:20:24,480 --> 00:20:27,720 You know, and that your Irishness was being called into question. 328 00:20:27,720 --> 00:20:29,480 And I sort of had this funny accent, 329 00:20:29,480 --> 00:20:32,120 so people would start thinking, "Where are you from?" 330 00:20:32,120 --> 00:20:33,840 You know, there was that sort of quality. 331 00:20:33,840 --> 00:20:36,480 And my queerness did the same thing. They were like... 332 00:20:36,480 --> 00:20:39,840 I always felt that there was no space for a queer Irish person. 333 00:20:40,920 --> 00:20:44,040 In 2015, following much heated debate around the country, 334 00:20:44,040 --> 00:20:46,400 championed by people like Rory, 335 00:20:46,400 --> 00:20:49,720 Ireland had a nationwide referendum on marriage equality. 336 00:20:51,160 --> 00:20:53,480 62% voted yes. 337 00:20:53,480 --> 00:20:56,400 Ireland, perhaps surprisingly, found itself at the vanguard 338 00:20:56,400 --> 00:20:59,200 of social change when it became the first nation in the world 339 00:20:59,200 --> 00:21:02,200 to vote in a referendum for same-sex marriage. 340 00:21:04,200 --> 00:21:07,400 When you walk around Dublin now, you do see, you know, 341 00:21:07,400 --> 00:21:09,760 gay and lesbian couples holding hands. 342 00:21:09,760 --> 00:21:12,920 Which is something you almost never saw before. 343 00:21:12,920 --> 00:21:18,560 And if you did, you know, they were a pretty brave, bolshie couple. 344 00:21:18,560 --> 00:21:22,640 And I think after the referendum, the gay community here felt secure 345 00:21:22,640 --> 00:21:26,640 in their place and they felt secure in their place as Irish people. 346 00:21:26,640 --> 00:21:30,720 Because I sort of have always felt myself... 347 00:21:30,720 --> 00:21:33,280 Like sometimes people describe me, say, as a gay activist. 348 00:21:33,280 --> 00:21:36,000 But I always say, "Well, that's not really exactly what I was about." 349 00:21:36,000 --> 00:21:38,640 What I was about was trying to expand the definition of Irishness. 350 00:21:38,640 --> 00:21:40,920 I feel the referendum finally said, 351 00:21:40,920 --> 00:21:44,360 "Actually, yes. You're totally Irish." 352 00:21:44,360 --> 00:21:47,840 You know, that's what it sort of felt like to me. 353 00:21:47,840 --> 00:21:50,600 Just six months on from the referendum, 354 00:21:50,600 --> 00:21:53,120 over 400 couples have tied the knot. 355 00:21:53,120 --> 00:21:56,280 Our sense of identity, it's not cast in stone. 356 00:21:56,280 --> 00:21:59,240 We're open to change and that can only be a good thing. 357 00:22:05,980 --> 00:22:09,940 I'm on a journey to find out what makes the Irish in any way unique. 358 00:22:11,500 --> 00:22:14,860 A lot of what we now think of as being Irish was actually 359 00:22:14,860 --> 00:22:18,740 forged in defiance of invading forces trying to change us. 360 00:22:21,420 --> 00:22:23,700 This is Kilkenny. 361 00:22:23,700 --> 00:22:27,220 Following the Anglo-Norman invasion nearly 1,000 years ago, 362 00:22:27,220 --> 00:22:31,020 the native Irish population were accused of corrupting the colonisers 363 00:22:31,020 --> 00:22:33,380 with their ways and wiles, 364 00:22:33,380 --> 00:22:36,900 making them more Irish than the Irish themselves. 365 00:22:36,900 --> 00:22:38,380 Apparently. 366 00:22:39,940 --> 00:22:43,340 As a result, a whole raft of laws were passed to stop the 367 00:22:43,340 --> 00:22:46,300 widespread adoption of Irishness and Irish culture. 368 00:22:47,740 --> 00:22:50,580 The Halls detailed some of these laws 369 00:22:50,580 --> 00:22:52,940 with a certain relish, I feel. 370 00:22:52,940 --> 00:22:54,620 HE LAUGHS 371 00:22:54,620 --> 00:22:57,180 "That marriage with the Irish was treason. 372 00:22:57,180 --> 00:23:00,460 "That the use of Irish names, apparel or language be punished with 373 00:23:00,460 --> 00:23:02,340 "forfeiture of lands or imprisonment." 374 00:23:02,340 --> 00:23:05,460 This was the first real attempt to wipe out Irish culture, 375 00:23:05,460 --> 00:23:07,500 including the language. 376 00:23:07,500 --> 00:23:10,460 "No Englishman was to entertain any of the minstrels, 377 00:23:10,460 --> 00:23:12,780 "rhymers or newstellers." 378 00:23:12,780 --> 00:23:14,300 That was me out of a job. 379 00:23:14,300 --> 00:23:17,180 You couldn't have your linen dyed in saffron. 380 00:23:17,180 --> 00:23:19,620 Nothing too colourful for the English settlers. 381 00:23:19,620 --> 00:23:21,660 "That the English should not permit the Irish to 382 00:23:21,660 --> 00:23:23,340 "graze upon their land." 383 00:23:23,340 --> 00:23:27,220 They even said that hurling, the old Irish game, should be banned. 384 00:23:27,220 --> 00:23:31,060 And they complained about the great evils and maims that were 385 00:23:31,060 --> 00:23:33,100 associated with hurling at the time. 386 00:23:35,540 --> 00:23:37,300 More than seven centuries later, 387 00:23:37,300 --> 00:23:39,740 the Irish revived hurling with a vengeance. 388 00:23:43,540 --> 00:23:46,460 Thought to be thousands of years old, this fast-moving, 389 00:23:46,460 --> 00:23:48,780 and some would say extremely dangerous sport, 390 00:23:48,780 --> 00:23:51,660 was vastly different to any other sport in the United Kingdom 391 00:23:51,660 --> 00:23:53,780 at the time. And that was the whole point. 392 00:23:55,820 --> 00:23:59,060 Now, Kilkenny is home to one of the top teams in the country. 393 00:24:00,340 --> 00:24:03,340 Players use a wooden stick called a hurley to hit 394 00:24:03,340 --> 00:24:06,260 a small called a sliotar, 395 00:24:06,260 --> 00:24:08,700 which can be caught in the hand and carried 396 00:24:08,700 --> 00:24:10,180 for not more than four steps. 397 00:24:11,700 --> 00:24:14,020 The ball can travel at 100mph - 398 00:24:14,020 --> 00:24:15,460 that's the dangerous bit. 399 00:24:17,220 --> 00:24:19,460 And these lads are just 14. 400 00:24:19,460 --> 00:24:21,380 They dream of the ultimate honour - 401 00:24:21,380 --> 00:24:23,380 to represent their county. 402 00:24:23,380 --> 00:24:25,500 But things aren't going so well. 403 00:24:25,500 --> 00:24:26,460 Lads, look... 404 00:24:28,140 --> 00:24:31,100 ..it's not intense enough, right? 405 00:24:31,100 --> 00:24:33,820 It's not typical Kilkenny hurling. 406 00:24:33,820 --> 00:24:35,540 It's too tippy-tappy. 407 00:24:35,540 --> 00:24:38,500 Take control of the territory you're hurling in. 408 00:24:38,500 --> 00:24:40,780 Mark it out in your head - "This is my area, 409 00:24:40,780 --> 00:24:42,940 "and any ball comes in here, I'm taking it." 410 00:24:42,940 --> 00:24:44,340 It's not intense enough, lads. 411 00:24:44,340 --> 00:24:46,380 You know it's not good enough. 412 00:24:46,380 --> 00:24:48,620 It's not near the level that's required. 413 00:24:48,620 --> 00:24:49,900 Deal with it. 414 00:24:49,900 --> 00:24:51,540 Well, look, I-I heard what they said - 415 00:24:51,540 --> 00:24:53,660 I thought you were all brilliant, so... 416 00:24:53,660 --> 00:24:55,980 LAUGHTER But then, I'm not coaching yous. 417 00:24:55,980 --> 00:24:58,460 OK, guys, let's go again. COACH: Ramp it up, ramp it up. 418 00:24:58,460 --> 00:25:00,620 Let's go, come on. Quickly, quickly. 419 00:25:02,140 --> 00:25:03,820 To get anywhere as a hurler, 420 00:25:03,820 --> 00:25:05,940 you need to be brave, superfit 421 00:25:05,940 --> 00:25:08,420 and have lightning-fast reflexes. 422 00:25:08,420 --> 00:25:09,780 There's nothing like it. 423 00:25:13,860 --> 00:25:16,100 'Ned Quinn is chairman of the county team.' 424 00:25:17,260 --> 00:25:20,700 It really doesn't bear any resemblance to any other game, 425 00:25:20,700 --> 00:25:21,780 does it? No, no. 426 00:25:26,260 --> 00:25:29,860 And what is a uniquely Irish about hurling, in terms of its character? 427 00:25:29,860 --> 00:25:33,380 The players playing have very little concern about being injured 428 00:25:33,380 --> 00:25:36,500 or anything. There's a lot of physical contact in it. 429 00:25:36,500 --> 00:25:38,900 I think it appeals to the Irish psyche. 430 00:25:38,900 --> 00:25:41,540 There's an element of danger in a game of hurling all the time. 431 00:25:41,540 --> 00:25:43,300 And there's no feigning injuries? 432 00:25:43,300 --> 00:25:44,780 HE CHUCKLES Oh, no. 433 00:25:44,780 --> 00:25:46,340 No. No diving? No, no. 434 00:25:46,340 --> 00:25:48,180 If you want to be despised in the GAA, 435 00:25:48,180 --> 00:25:50,260 you go down and pretend you're injured. 436 00:25:50,260 --> 00:25:52,940 You actually get up and pretend you're not injured. 437 00:25:52,940 --> 00:25:56,540 You don't give in to the other fella to say that he had injured you. 438 00:25:58,900 --> 00:26:00,620 Selfless bravery? 439 00:26:00,620 --> 00:26:03,980 Yeah, perhaps that's the quintessence of the Irish psyche. 440 00:26:05,220 --> 00:26:08,900 No-one is more passionate about this game than the Irish mammies, 441 00:26:08,900 --> 00:26:11,900 another great Gaelic archetype. 442 00:26:11,900 --> 00:26:15,140 Can I just ask you all, do you actually want to be here, 443 00:26:15,140 --> 00:26:17,300 or do you have to be here? 444 00:26:17,300 --> 00:26:20,220 Well, I want to be here. I want to be here. I want to be here as well. 445 00:26:20,220 --> 00:26:22,100 Really? ALL: Yeah. 446 00:26:22,100 --> 00:26:24,340 We don't go on holidays in the summertime when the hurling 447 00:26:24,340 --> 00:26:25,460 season is on. 448 00:26:25,460 --> 00:26:27,700 You plan your holiday around the championship, 449 00:26:27,700 --> 00:26:29,060 or whatever is going on. 450 00:26:29,060 --> 00:26:30,900 Would you not be worried at all? 451 00:26:30,900 --> 00:26:34,220 I mean, it's clearly, like, a dangerous game, in some ways. 452 00:26:34,220 --> 00:26:36,900 They do wear helmets. Yeah. 453 00:26:36,900 --> 00:26:38,980 That's what's they grow up with. 454 00:26:38,980 --> 00:26:42,380 We don't know any difference, really. They don't get many injuries. They don't. 455 00:26:42,380 --> 00:26:46,100 I have to say, none of mine ever had anything serious. 456 00:26:46,100 --> 00:26:49,660 A few bruises here and there, but nothing major - no broken bones. 457 00:26:49,660 --> 00:26:51,100 Bruised egos, I'd imagine? 458 00:26:51,100 --> 00:26:52,740 Oh, plenty bruised egos. 459 00:26:52,740 --> 00:26:54,380 Oh, plenty over the years. 460 00:26:54,380 --> 00:26:56,580 But, you know, it's all part of life and growing up, 461 00:26:56,580 --> 00:26:58,580 and I think it teaches them, really. 462 00:27:02,780 --> 00:27:06,660 They say that hurling is the fastest field game in the world, 463 00:27:06,660 --> 00:27:10,500 but there's something that moves even faster across the Irish grass. 464 00:27:13,020 --> 00:27:16,220 Quite simply, horses are synonymous with the Irish. 465 00:27:17,940 --> 00:27:21,420 Whether it's the Travellers with their piebald horses and home-made 466 00:27:21,420 --> 00:27:24,060 carts, or the thoroughbreds of elite racing, 467 00:27:24,060 --> 00:27:25,500 we Irish do love a horse. 468 00:27:27,340 --> 00:27:29,180 Even the Halls noticed it - 469 00:27:29,180 --> 00:27:31,340 they tell the story about a Mr Sullivan, 470 00:27:31,340 --> 00:27:34,700 a real-life horse whisperer who was able to tame the wildest of 471 00:27:34,700 --> 00:27:36,980 horses by simply whispering in their ear. 472 00:27:41,220 --> 00:27:44,980 Buyers come from all over the globe to invest in our bloodstock. 473 00:27:44,980 --> 00:27:47,660 But their pockets need to be well-lined. 474 00:27:47,660 --> 00:27:51,020 The highest price paid for a thoroughbred was £12 million. 475 00:27:54,900 --> 00:27:57,500 I'm no horsey man - I don't even have a waxed jacket - but I might 476 00:27:57,500 --> 00:27:59,180 as well have a flutter. 477 00:28:00,260 --> 00:28:02,220 I've backed a British horse, 478 00:28:02,220 --> 00:28:03,180 Blood Moon. 479 00:28:04,300 --> 00:28:05,340 Just like the name. 480 00:28:08,380 --> 00:28:11,420 This meeting at Naas Racecourse near Dublin 481 00:28:11,420 --> 00:28:13,740 is a typical everyday event in Ireland. 482 00:28:13,740 --> 00:28:16,740 There are more racetracks per head of population here than 483 00:28:16,740 --> 00:28:18,580 in any other country in the world. 484 00:28:28,100 --> 00:28:32,740 Now, I've come here not to make my fortune, although that'd be nice. 485 00:28:32,740 --> 00:28:36,340 I'm here to find out what it is about Ireland and the 486 00:28:36,340 --> 00:28:39,940 Irish that breeds arguably the best racehorses around. 487 00:28:48,300 --> 00:28:52,620 I've no idea which one was Blood Moon, or what happened to him. 488 00:28:52,620 --> 00:28:54,820 Oh, I haven't a clue what I'm doing. 489 00:28:54,820 --> 00:28:59,260 But why are we Irish so good at breeding winners? 490 00:28:59,260 --> 00:29:02,620 It's the one pursuit, I feel, that Ireland can stand up and say, 491 00:29:02,620 --> 00:29:05,540 Right, we are a world leader here, bar none. 492 00:29:05,540 --> 00:29:08,300 "We can go round the world and we are a number one." 493 00:29:08,300 --> 00:29:10,820 Tom Ryan is the racecourse manager. 494 00:29:10,820 --> 00:29:13,300 I've done a good bit of travelling through the world. 495 00:29:13,300 --> 00:29:16,620 I spent a bit of time in America on the breeding side of things, you know? 496 00:29:16,620 --> 00:29:20,100 And anywhere you see a congregation of horses - mostly racehorses - 497 00:29:20,100 --> 00:29:22,380 you'll see an Irishman, somewhere. 498 00:29:22,380 --> 00:29:24,540 It doesn't matter how far away it is. 499 00:29:24,540 --> 00:29:26,540 How did we get to that position? 500 00:29:26,540 --> 00:29:29,260 The number one thing, I believe, was the climate. 501 00:29:29,260 --> 00:29:33,020 You know, you can grow the grass, and it keeps the horses sound, 502 00:29:33,020 --> 00:29:35,340 and let them prosper and grow, you know, and breed well. 503 00:29:35,340 --> 00:29:38,300 So you're saying an Irish horse is a happier horse than anywhere else? 504 00:29:38,300 --> 00:29:40,900 This climate, I mean, it's cool, there's no extremes. 505 00:29:40,900 --> 00:29:43,860 You know, it's all about the grass, in my book, really. 506 00:29:45,180 --> 00:29:47,060 COMMENTARY BLARES OVER TANNOY 507 00:29:47,060 --> 00:29:48,580 Bocca Baciata, that's mine. 508 00:29:51,540 --> 00:29:52,740 JOCKEY ROARS 509 00:29:54,780 --> 00:29:56,340 Another loser. 510 00:29:56,340 --> 00:29:59,740 Bocca Baciata - stupid name, stupid horse. 511 00:29:59,740 --> 00:30:00,860 HE SNORTS 512 00:30:02,100 --> 00:30:05,940 The most famous person I ever hired a pair of binoculars to, 513 00:30:05,940 --> 00:30:09,260 besides yourself, was Jimmy Carter. 514 00:30:09,260 --> 00:30:11,900 The former US president? The president. Yeah. 515 00:30:11,900 --> 00:30:13,740 And he was a really nice man. 516 00:30:13,740 --> 00:30:17,460 He hired them, went off - apparently, he likes his horses. 517 00:30:17,460 --> 00:30:20,980 That was... I didn't ask him for I'D or to sign anything, you know. 518 00:30:20,980 --> 00:30:23,380 You took him on face value. That's fairly incredible. 519 00:30:23,380 --> 00:30:25,300 Thanks a million, George, OK? Right, Ardal. 520 00:30:25,300 --> 00:30:26,660 Cheers, nice to meet you. Thank you. 521 00:30:28,100 --> 00:30:30,260 That's better. Now, I can't go wrong. 522 00:30:32,860 --> 00:30:34,100 Ah, yes. 523 00:30:34,100 --> 00:30:37,660 The man in the blue blazer is one of Ireland's greatest trainers. 524 00:30:37,660 --> 00:30:41,140 William McCreery trains the horses of Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid, 525 00:30:41,140 --> 00:30:43,820 one of the wealthiest men in the world. 526 00:30:43,820 --> 00:30:46,300 He has ten stud farms here. Yeah. 527 00:30:46,300 --> 00:30:50,540 Most of his... All his best progeny are raised and grazed here. Yeah. 528 00:30:50,540 --> 00:30:52,820 But why Ireland? Like, what's so special about Ireland, 529 00:30:52,820 --> 00:30:54,740 or Irish trainers like yourself? 530 00:30:54,740 --> 00:30:57,500 We have the best ground here. 531 00:30:57,500 --> 00:30:59,860 The best soil type here. Yeah? Yeah. 532 00:31:01,220 --> 00:31:02,420 Unbeknownst to yourself, 533 00:31:02,420 --> 00:31:06,060 a lot of Irish people have horses in their blood. Yeah. 534 00:31:06,060 --> 00:31:09,300 And A lot of Irish people, their first time touching a horse, 535 00:31:09,300 --> 00:31:11,860 they touch them very gently. Yeah. Foreigners don't, you know? 536 00:31:11,860 --> 00:31:14,700 We just have it in our blood that you don't even know about it. Yeah, yeah. 537 00:31:14,700 --> 00:31:17,260 You'd have it and you wouldn't even know it. Yeah, yeah. 538 00:31:17,260 --> 00:31:20,220 Because sometimes a foreigner will touch a horse and he'll slap them. 539 00:31:20,220 --> 00:31:22,940 Yeah, or be afraid of horse, even? Yes. An Irish lad will pat it. 540 00:31:22,940 --> 00:31:25,500 It's probably cos we all go back to a caravan at some stage. 541 00:31:25,500 --> 00:31:27,100 ARDAL LAUGHS Yeah. 542 00:31:29,500 --> 00:31:32,220 McCreery is here to see his horse run. 543 00:31:32,220 --> 00:31:35,780 But as always, success is down to both the horse 544 00:31:35,780 --> 00:31:37,500 and the jockey who rides him. 545 00:31:37,500 --> 00:31:39,780 ARDAL: And is this a horse that you'd have high hopes for? 546 00:31:39,780 --> 00:31:41,420 MCCREERY: Yeah, I do, yeah. 547 00:31:41,420 --> 00:31:43,420 And we'll train him at home to follow a horse, 548 00:31:43,420 --> 00:31:45,260 and then come out and put on the turbo. 549 00:31:45,260 --> 00:31:47,380 Hopefully, the turbo, you know? 550 00:31:47,380 --> 00:31:48,580 You brought the turbo? 551 00:31:48,580 --> 00:31:49,980 Well, we brought the turbo, 552 00:31:49,980 --> 00:31:52,620 but we don't know if the jockey can engage it. ARDAL LAUGHS 553 00:31:52,620 --> 00:31:55,860 He's ridden him twice last year, so he knows the horse well. He knows him well, yeah. 554 00:32:02,580 --> 00:32:04,220 'They're out there somewhere. 555 00:32:05,780 --> 00:32:07,100 'Ah, there they are.' 556 00:32:10,180 --> 00:32:11,900 COMMENTARY BLARES OVER TANNOY 557 00:32:13,140 --> 00:32:16,180 'Aridity is William McCreery's horse, 558 00:32:16,180 --> 00:32:18,460 'but I sense things aren't going very well.' 559 00:32:21,380 --> 00:32:22,820 No, and he's just... 560 00:32:22,820 --> 00:32:25,020 He's not giving him a hard race here. 561 00:32:26,460 --> 00:32:28,300 'These binoculars are fantastic.' 562 00:32:32,140 --> 00:32:33,500 That's Dermot Weld wins it again. 563 00:32:35,140 --> 00:32:37,420 So what was the...? What was the issue there? 564 00:32:37,420 --> 00:32:39,180 Erm...well, I hope the ground. 565 00:32:39,180 --> 00:32:40,980 I hope the ground, you know, held him up, 566 00:32:40,980 --> 00:32:43,300 because he wasn't too hard on him. You know? Right, right. 567 00:32:43,300 --> 00:32:45,340 And he turned in in a lovely position, 568 00:32:45,340 --> 00:32:48,540 but I hope the ground just collared him, you know? Yeah, yeah. 569 00:32:48,540 --> 00:32:52,140 Yes, I also hope the ground was to blame, for the jockey's sake. 570 00:32:53,540 --> 00:32:56,540 Like hurling, it's a fiercely competitive sport. 571 00:32:56,540 --> 00:32:57,500 INAUDIBLE 572 00:32:58,780 --> 00:33:02,580 McCreery believes that we Irish are able to coax our horses 573 00:33:02,580 --> 00:33:06,980 into winning because we've acquired a special affinity with them. 574 00:33:06,980 --> 00:33:09,860 Although I'm not sure it's something I've quite achieved yet. 575 00:33:11,860 --> 00:33:14,420 It's one thing the Halls were right about - 576 00:33:14,420 --> 00:33:16,340 we are half human, half horse. 577 00:33:27,850 --> 00:33:31,250 I'm in Dublin, following in the footsteps of Mr and Mrs Hall, 578 00:33:31,250 --> 00:33:34,490 who travelled the country back in the 1840s. 579 00:33:34,490 --> 00:33:37,650 More than anything, it was the peculiarities of 580 00:33:37,650 --> 00:33:40,810 Irish culture and identity that they were most keen on. 581 00:33:42,890 --> 00:33:45,010 Like their Victorian countrymen, 582 00:33:45,010 --> 00:33:48,010 they associated Irish cuisine with the potato. 583 00:33:49,170 --> 00:33:51,650 For them, it was the root of our misfortune. 584 00:33:54,130 --> 00:33:57,570 They reckon the accursed root is, if not the originator, 585 00:33:57,570 --> 00:33:59,850 the sustainer of Irish poverty and wretchedness. 586 00:34:01,330 --> 00:34:03,450 Well, I'm going to find out if this "accursed root" 587 00:34:03,450 --> 00:34:05,450 has any place on Irish tables today. 588 00:34:10,050 --> 00:34:14,090 This is Gallagher's Boxty House, modern Ireland's temple 589 00:34:14,090 --> 00:34:16,570 to the humble spud. 590 00:34:16,570 --> 00:34:18,890 Chef, Padraic Og Gallagher, 591 00:34:18,890 --> 00:34:22,890 is taking me back to how the potato was first served in Ireland. 592 00:34:24,010 --> 00:34:25,930 Some lumpers cooked, huh? 593 00:34:25,930 --> 00:34:28,010 This is the way the families would have had them. 594 00:34:28,010 --> 00:34:30,530 Yeah, or even in a wooden bowl, strained out. 595 00:34:30,530 --> 00:34:34,090 If you had an acre, you could grow enough for a family of six, 596 00:34:34,090 --> 00:34:38,410 eating 12 pounds of potatoes a day - like five kilos of potatoes a day, 597 00:34:38,410 --> 00:34:39,650 every day. 598 00:34:39,650 --> 00:34:42,170 Breakfast - potatoes. Wow. Lunch - potatoes. 599 00:34:42,170 --> 00:34:44,250 Three meals a day - potatoes. Potatoes. That was it. 600 00:34:44,250 --> 00:34:45,690 And that's all they had to eat. 601 00:34:45,690 --> 00:34:48,370 But, you know, they would have eaten these with the centre raw. 602 00:34:48,370 --> 00:34:50,690 So they would just parboil them? Parboil them, yeah. 603 00:34:50,690 --> 00:34:52,930 So the outer half would have been kind of fluffy and...? 604 00:34:52,930 --> 00:34:55,370 Yeah, and the inside would have been raw. 605 00:34:55,370 --> 00:34:57,130 What was the thinking? 606 00:34:57,130 --> 00:34:59,530 Second digestion, when they're working the field. 607 00:34:59,530 --> 00:35:01,930 They would have said that, if the potato was cooked too much, 608 00:35:01,930 --> 00:35:03,730 they wouldn't be able to do a day's work. 609 00:35:03,730 --> 00:35:06,730 And that was it, so an hour and a half or two hours later, 610 00:35:06,730 --> 00:35:10,890 they get a salient feeling from the fact that the raw potato was 611 00:35:10,890 --> 00:35:13,730 mixing with the juice in their stomach, or whatever. 612 00:35:13,730 --> 00:35:17,170 I haven't experimented with that one yet, you know? Yeah, yeah. 613 00:35:19,410 --> 00:35:22,730 200 years ago, poverty was rife in Ireland. 614 00:35:22,730 --> 00:35:25,210 The potato was about the only food people ate. 615 00:35:27,170 --> 00:35:31,170 Then the potato blight hit, destroying the nation's crops, 616 00:35:31,170 --> 00:35:32,530 and resulting in famine. 617 00:35:35,130 --> 00:35:37,570 A million people starved to death, 618 00:35:37,570 --> 00:35:40,250 and at least a million more were forced to emigrate. 619 00:35:46,610 --> 00:35:48,290 Was that their fault? 620 00:35:48,290 --> 00:35:51,090 You know, there's an opinion that, like, you know, 621 00:35:51,090 --> 00:35:52,970 they should have tried to grow something else. 622 00:35:52,970 --> 00:35:55,010 Why couldn't they grow something else? 623 00:35:55,010 --> 00:35:57,530 Because, first of all, the potato is... 624 00:35:58,690 --> 00:36:00,410 You just need to grow the potato. 625 00:36:00,410 --> 00:36:02,050 You don't have to take it to the mill, 626 00:36:02,050 --> 00:36:04,170 you don't have to pay a miller to mill it. 627 00:36:04,170 --> 00:36:06,970 It's not like a grain, you just grow it, and you grow it again. 628 00:36:06,970 --> 00:36:08,410 You keep some of these for next year, 629 00:36:08,410 --> 00:36:11,010 and you just put them in the soil, and they grow again next year. 630 00:36:11,010 --> 00:36:12,290 Very simple. 631 00:36:12,290 --> 00:36:15,210 And the potato gave them everything they needed. 632 00:36:15,210 --> 00:36:18,930 So, I suppose the question would be, "Why would you grow anything else?" 633 00:36:18,930 --> 00:36:20,890 Yeah. You know? 634 00:36:20,890 --> 00:36:24,810 Padraic has resurrected the potato from its accursed past. 635 00:36:24,810 --> 00:36:29,130 It's now the raw ingredient of 1,001 gastronomic creations, 636 00:36:29,130 --> 00:36:32,650 built around the traditional Irish boxty, or potato pancake. 637 00:36:33,810 --> 00:36:36,930 Wow! This is your boxty pancake. 638 00:36:38,130 --> 00:36:40,410 Made of grated raw potato, cooked mashed potato, 639 00:36:40,410 --> 00:36:42,770 and we use a gluten-free flour in it. 640 00:36:42,770 --> 00:36:47,170 And these are... Have you tasted these? Mm. They're gorgeous. 641 00:36:47,170 --> 00:36:50,850 It's a pancake, thinly sliced, and deep fat fried. Oh, my God. 642 00:36:50,850 --> 00:36:54,410 Boxty pancake, so again, you've about 70% potato in there. Yeah. 643 00:36:54,410 --> 00:36:57,490 And that's just... They are nicer than chips. 644 00:36:57,490 --> 00:36:59,290 Nicer than your regular skinny fries. 645 00:36:59,290 --> 00:37:01,530 They're much nicer than chips. Mm. PADRAIC CHUCKLES 646 00:37:01,530 --> 00:37:04,890 This is the loaf. It's the boxty loaf, boxty bread. Potato bread. 647 00:37:04,890 --> 00:37:08,730 Potato bread. 60%, 70% potato in it. Look at my fingers, my God. 648 00:37:08,730 --> 00:37:09,810 Mess here. 649 00:37:11,530 --> 00:37:14,530 'Oh, Padraic's food was so good, 650 00:37:14,530 --> 00:37:19,290 'I found it increasingly difficult to focus on what he was saying.' 651 00:37:19,290 --> 00:37:21,650 I feel like a bit of a savage, so early in the day... 652 00:37:21,650 --> 00:37:27,570 '990 potato dishes later, we finally ended up with something to drink.' 653 00:37:27,570 --> 00:37:31,330 I think we should have a wee drop of poitin. Just to round it all off. 654 00:37:31,330 --> 00:37:34,290 Yeah. Lovely. I suppose you know what poitin's made from, do you? 655 00:37:34,290 --> 00:37:37,250 There would be a potato content. I think there might be, indeed. 656 00:37:37,250 --> 00:37:41,250 Creator, they call it. Yeah? Yeah. The original? A drop of the creator. 657 00:37:41,250 --> 00:37:44,170 Well... No, this is completely legal. 658 00:37:45,450 --> 00:37:47,970 Slainte. Slainte. 659 00:37:47,970 --> 00:37:50,690 'Now, people, this innocent-looking liquid 660 00:37:50,690 --> 00:37:53,050 is to be consumed with great care. 661 00:37:53,050 --> 00:37:56,650 It is poitin - potato whiskey - and it's probably 662 00:37:56,650 --> 00:37:58,810 the most wicked thing you can do with a spud.' 663 00:37:58,810 --> 00:38:02,250 Tastes great. 'Alas, I can't possibly say no, 664 00:38:02,250 --> 00:38:04,930 'especially in the presence of a connoisseur.' 665 00:38:07,730 --> 00:38:10,690 Yeah, there's a... There's a warming quality to that. 666 00:38:15,090 --> 00:38:18,690 When the Halls were travelling around Ireland in the 1840s, 667 00:38:18,690 --> 00:38:23,090 the pub, or tabhairne, was the focal point of most communities, 668 00:38:23,090 --> 00:38:26,850 with ten million gallons of whiskey and poitin consumed annually. 669 00:38:29,730 --> 00:38:33,170 The Halls were very concerned about our drinking habits, 670 00:38:33,170 --> 00:38:36,090 especially the illicit liquor, poitin. 671 00:38:36,090 --> 00:38:40,170 They described it as the shame and the bane of Ireland, 672 00:38:40,170 --> 00:38:43,330 and were huge fans of the temperance movement at the time. 673 00:38:43,330 --> 00:38:46,210 But we've always been a bit ambivalent about the drink here. 674 00:38:46,210 --> 00:38:48,490 We resent the stereotyping - of course we do - 675 00:38:48,490 --> 00:38:50,770 but we sometimes revel in the reputation, 676 00:38:50,770 --> 00:38:52,410 and for every hardened drinker, 677 00:38:52,410 --> 00:38:54,810 you'll find people who don't drink at all, 678 00:38:54,810 --> 00:38:57,570 and I'm about to speak to one of those guys now. 679 00:38:57,570 --> 00:38:59,850 He just happens to own his own distillery. 680 00:39:04,050 --> 00:39:06,210 For centuries, poitin was illegal, 681 00:39:06,210 --> 00:39:09,290 and distilled in secret using primitive techniques. 682 00:39:10,490 --> 00:39:15,090 'Echlinville Distillery is on the eastern shores of Strangford Lough. 683 00:39:15,090 --> 00:39:17,890 'It's the first official distillery in Northern Ireland 684 00:39:17,890 --> 00:39:22,810 'in over 125 years, and it makes legal poitin.' 685 00:39:22,810 --> 00:39:25,250 It's like a whiskey-producing saxophone, 686 00:39:25,250 --> 00:39:27,770 that's what that looks like. 687 00:39:27,770 --> 00:39:30,570 'Chief distiller is Shane Braniff.' 688 00:39:30,570 --> 00:39:33,130 This sounds like one of the greatest jobs in the world. 689 00:39:33,130 --> 00:39:36,090 In truth, I have never drank. 690 00:39:36,090 --> 00:39:37,490 I've never drank alcohol. 691 00:39:37,490 --> 00:39:40,330 But surely, as a distiller, you must taste it. 692 00:39:40,330 --> 00:39:45,690 Erm... As a distiller, I would taste the spirit coming off the still. 693 00:39:45,690 --> 00:39:49,170 Erm... Tasting is very, very different to drinking. 694 00:39:50,370 --> 00:39:52,490 Shane is so proud of his tasting ability, 695 00:39:52,490 --> 00:39:55,930 he's considering insuring his own tongue. 696 00:39:55,930 --> 00:39:57,570 So we'll go down here now, 697 00:39:57,570 --> 00:40:01,290 and we'll head down and have a look at the spirit coming off. 698 00:40:01,290 --> 00:40:04,250 I want to try some of this notorious brew myself, 699 00:40:04,250 --> 00:40:06,250 but Shane has warned me to be careful. 700 00:40:06,250 --> 00:40:08,730 I'm going to be sampling almost pure alcohol. 701 00:40:10,450 --> 00:40:12,370 So, I'll just get you a little sample here. 702 00:40:12,370 --> 00:40:14,610 Is it strong at this stage? Oh... 703 00:40:14,610 --> 00:40:15,690 It's, erm... 704 00:40:15,690 --> 00:40:18,490 Now, this is only a rough guide here, but do you know what? 705 00:40:18,490 --> 00:40:22,410 It's coming off just above 85 ABV, so it's strong, aye. 706 00:40:22,410 --> 00:40:23,970 Don't be knocking this back. 707 00:40:26,490 --> 00:40:29,890 So the spirit that's coming off here now should be very, very sweet, 708 00:40:29,890 --> 00:40:33,170 very, very pure, and it should be full of character and flavour, 709 00:40:33,170 --> 00:40:35,890 so just on the edge of your tongue or on your lips. 710 00:40:35,890 --> 00:40:38,250 Don't drink it. OK. 711 00:40:38,250 --> 00:40:40,410 Purely in the interests of scientific research. 712 00:40:48,650 --> 00:40:50,570 Je... 713 00:40:50,570 --> 00:40:51,850 Now, really... 714 00:40:51,850 --> 00:40:55,170 EXHALES SHARPLY COUGHS 715 00:40:55,170 --> 00:40:57,810 I actually think my tongue melted. 716 00:40:57,810 --> 00:40:59,850 Aye, seriously. Will you have a look? 717 00:40:59,850 --> 00:41:01,530 SHANE LAUGHS 718 00:41:04,090 --> 00:41:08,130 In spite of - or maybe because of - its former illegality, 719 00:41:08,130 --> 00:41:11,770 poitin has become one of Ireland's most famous spirits. 720 00:41:11,770 --> 00:41:14,770 The secret recipe for this particular brand 721 00:41:14,770 --> 00:41:18,090 was formulated by David Mulligan and Cara Humphries. 722 00:41:20,330 --> 00:41:22,930 This book I've been reading, though, the Halls, you know, 723 00:41:22,930 --> 00:41:26,490 they were very down on it. They would not like you guys. 724 00:41:26,490 --> 00:41:29,930 They just thought that home-distilled stuff was the 725 00:41:29,930 --> 00:41:32,770 bane of Irish life, that it was the cause of every misery, 726 00:41:32,770 --> 00:41:36,690 every misfortune going. Are people still distilling it? 727 00:41:36,690 --> 00:41:38,170 Oh, yeah, plenty people. 728 00:41:38,170 --> 00:41:40,690 Plenty people still distilling it, and it's really passed down 729 00:41:40,690 --> 00:41:42,970 generation to generation how they do it, you know? 730 00:41:42,970 --> 00:41:45,930 But our main research was just collecting as many as we could, 731 00:41:45,930 --> 00:41:47,650 you know, and drinking as many as we could. 732 00:41:47,650 --> 00:41:48,970 How do you find these people? 733 00:41:48,970 --> 00:41:51,650 They find you, funnily enough, once you put the word out, you know? 734 00:41:51,650 --> 00:41:54,170 Everybody's got a story in Ireland, everybody knows somebody. 735 00:41:54,170 --> 00:41:55,610 You'll never meet the guy who made it. 736 00:41:55,610 --> 00:41:57,050 No-one'll ever admit to making it, 737 00:41:57,050 --> 00:41:58,730 but they can get you a bottle fairly handy. 738 00:41:58,730 --> 00:42:00,810 Yeah, and it usually comes in an old lemonade bottle. 739 00:42:00,810 --> 00:42:03,090 Lemonade, or an old whiskey bottle, an old wine bottle. 740 00:42:03,090 --> 00:42:05,970 It was definitely a labour of love in the beginning. 741 00:42:05,970 --> 00:42:08,410 A lot of experiments, a lot of distilling, and... 742 00:42:08,410 --> 00:42:10,410 A lot of long days, yeah. ..a lot of potato peeling. 743 00:42:10,410 --> 00:42:11,850 Lot of hanging out with Shane. Yeah. 744 00:42:11,850 --> 00:42:13,810 What other purposes were people using poitin for? 745 00:42:13,810 --> 00:42:16,370 Oh, God, there's 101 different uses. 746 00:42:16,370 --> 00:42:18,650 You still get a lot of county footballers using it, 747 00:42:18,650 --> 00:42:21,090 rubbing it into their muscles and stuff, when they've cramps. 748 00:42:21,090 --> 00:42:23,730 That's a genuine thing? Aye, and then the animal thing. 749 00:42:23,730 --> 00:42:26,290 I've heard that there was a horse that was so sick, 750 00:42:26,290 --> 00:42:28,450 they had to put it down, and they didn't want to shoot it, 751 00:42:28,450 --> 00:42:30,570 so they gave it a bucket of poitin, 752 00:42:30,570 --> 00:42:34,130 and the thing ended up living for another two years. 753 00:42:34,130 --> 00:42:36,290 And you don't drink at all! No, no, no, I... 754 00:42:36,290 --> 00:42:40,010 Which is kind of bizarre for somebody who's peddling. 755 00:42:40,010 --> 00:42:41,690 Yeah, I know, I know, I know, 756 00:42:41,690 --> 00:42:44,370 sometimes I find it hard to sleep at night, but... 757 00:42:45,810 --> 00:42:48,450 I love to see people drinking, you know? 758 00:42:48,450 --> 00:42:50,530 I really, really do. I'm not surprised! 759 00:42:50,530 --> 00:42:52,690 You wouldn't be living in this house otherwise. 760 00:42:59,730 --> 00:43:04,290 Fortified on poitin, I've travelled to the opposite end of the country, 761 00:43:04,290 --> 00:43:07,450 to complete my investigations into Irish identity. 762 00:43:13,530 --> 00:43:16,770 I'm being escorted to one of the most mysterious places 763 00:43:16,770 --> 00:43:17,930 in all of Ireland. 764 00:43:21,050 --> 00:43:24,850 And I'd just like to show you the entrance, right over here. 765 00:43:27,330 --> 00:43:30,570 'Looks like I'm about to enter another dimension, 766 00:43:30,570 --> 00:43:33,250 'with only the vaguest notion of what to expect.' 767 00:43:40,370 --> 00:43:42,930 I'll let you experience that by yourself, now. 768 00:43:44,370 --> 00:43:46,650 You're not going to leave me here on my own? 769 00:43:49,130 --> 00:43:50,250 Is this a trick? 770 00:43:52,330 --> 00:43:54,690 This was once the site of a souterrain, 771 00:43:54,690 --> 00:43:56,690 an ancient underground passage, 772 00:43:56,690 --> 00:44:00,050 a secret tunnel for entering or leaving a hidden fortress. 773 00:44:06,490 --> 00:44:11,210 And this is where the secret souterrain rejoins the world above. 774 00:44:19,730 --> 00:44:23,930 This is the Sky Crater, an astonishing modern artwork, 775 00:44:23,930 --> 00:44:26,130 built on the site of an ancient ringfort. 776 00:44:30,170 --> 00:44:33,330 It's a little bit... It's a little bit, er... 777 00:44:33,330 --> 00:44:35,010 I'm a little bit scared, 778 00:44:35,010 --> 00:44:37,810 because it does look like I'm about to be ritually sacrificed. 779 00:44:42,410 --> 00:44:47,090 'The Sky Crater was designed by American artist, James Turrell.' 780 00:44:47,090 --> 00:44:50,210 There's a little headrest there. 781 00:44:50,210 --> 00:44:54,490 'What's the point of it? Well, it's an observatory. 782 00:44:54,490 --> 00:44:57,530 'A place to observe the universe out there, 783 00:44:57,530 --> 00:44:59,570 'and the universe within oneself.' 784 00:45:01,650 --> 00:45:02,890 I remember as a kid, 785 00:45:02,890 --> 00:45:05,290 that you'd often lie in the park and look at the sky. 786 00:45:05,290 --> 00:45:07,730 You know, there's something to be said for that, I think, so... 787 00:45:07,730 --> 00:45:09,530 I mean, this forces you to do that, 788 00:45:09,530 --> 00:45:12,170 because that's all there is to do in this crater. 789 00:45:14,090 --> 00:45:17,850 So I think that's maybe kind of one of the ideas that the artist had, 790 00:45:17,850 --> 00:45:21,570 is that he gets you to stop and think, 791 00:45:21,570 --> 00:45:25,810 and contemplate and maybe reflect on the meaning of life. 792 00:45:31,730 --> 00:45:36,170 What you see is the green hills, the blue sky, and the white clouds. 793 00:45:37,970 --> 00:45:41,850 This view of Ireland that I'm looking at now is exactly 794 00:45:41,850 --> 00:45:44,570 the same one the Celts saw and the Vikings saw, 795 00:45:44,570 --> 00:45:46,890 and the Normans and the English saw. 796 00:45:46,890 --> 00:45:50,010 In that sense, the country hasn't really changed at all. 797 00:45:58,250 --> 00:46:01,010 You might be able to get the same effect by just putting one of 798 00:46:01,010 --> 00:46:05,450 those dog flea collars over your head, so if you can't come here, 799 00:46:05,450 --> 00:46:10,010 just lie in your garden, with a flea collar like that. 800 00:46:18,530 --> 00:46:22,410 Next time, I'll be heading into uncharted waters in Donegal, 801 00:46:22,410 --> 00:46:25,530 in search of Irish myths and legends. 802 00:46:25,530 --> 00:46:27,290 Nobody knows about this. 803 00:46:27,290 --> 00:46:30,650 It's completely hidden away, this architectural treasure. 804 00:46:32,610 --> 00:46:35,850 I'll be practising my sword-fighting skills in Belfast. 805 00:46:35,850 --> 00:46:38,530 You never know when you might need them. 806 00:46:38,530 --> 00:46:41,130 I mean, I think it's a good way to start the day - just to hold one. 807 00:46:41,130 --> 00:46:42,730 Yeah. And just wave it around on your own. 808 00:46:42,730 --> 00:46:44,050 You don't need to tell anyone. 809 00:46:45,530 --> 00:46:47,450 And I'll be awestruck by a legendary beast 810 00:46:47,450 --> 00:46:49,930 who's just landed a new job. 811 00:46:49,930 --> 00:46:52,530 She's an actual officer in the Irish Army? Yes. 812 00:46:54,010 --> 00:46:55,410 She's messing with me. No! 813 00:47:17,850 --> 00:47:22,850 Subtitles by Ericsson