1 00:00:02,700 --> 00:00:05,220 MEDLEY OF FAST TUNES PLAYS 2 00:01:21,780 --> 00:01:25,820 Child of the first war, forgotten by the second, 3 00:01:25,820 --> 00:01:28,180 we called you Metro-Land. 4 00:01:28,180 --> 00:01:30,660 We laid our schemes, 5 00:01:30,660 --> 00:01:33,180 lured by the lush brochure, 6 00:01:33,180 --> 00:01:38,700 down byways beckoned to build at last the cottage of our dreams, 7 00:01:38,700 --> 00:01:41,260 a city clerk turned countryman again 8 00:01:41,260 --> 00:01:45,100 and linked to the metropolis by train. 9 00:01:49,020 --> 00:01:51,540 TRAIN WHISTLE BLOWS 10 00:01:52,660 --> 00:01:54,180 Metro-Land, 11 00:01:54,180 --> 00:01:57,860 the creation of the Metropolitan Railway 12 00:01:57,860 --> 00:02:00,260 which, as you know, 13 00:02:00,260 --> 00:02:04,340 was the first steam underground in the world. 14 00:02:04,340 --> 00:02:06,500 In the tunnels, 15 00:02:06,500 --> 00:02:09,300 the smell of sulphur was awful. 16 00:02:11,340 --> 00:02:15,980 When I was a boy, "Live in Metro-Land" was the slogan. 17 00:02:15,980 --> 00:02:20,500 It meant getting out of the tunnels into the country, 18 00:02:20,500 --> 00:02:23,140 for the line had ambitions 19 00:02:23,140 --> 00:02:28,100 of linking Manchester to Paris and dropping in at London on the way. 20 00:02:28,100 --> 00:02:32,180 That grandiose scheme came to nothing. 21 00:02:32,180 --> 00:02:36,500 But then the Metropolitan had a very good idea. 22 00:02:36,500 --> 00:02:39,140 Look at these fields. 23 00:02:40,220 --> 00:02:44,260 They were photographed in 1910 from the train. 24 00:02:44,260 --> 00:02:48,460 "Why not," said a clever member of the board, 25 00:02:48,460 --> 00:02:53,140 "Why not buy these orchards and farms as we go along, 26 00:02:53,140 --> 00:02:57,580 "turn out the cattle, and fill the meadowland with houses. 27 00:02:57,580 --> 00:03:02,140 "You would have a modern home of quality and distinction. 28 00:03:02,140 --> 00:03:07,020 "You might even buy an old one if there was one left. 29 00:03:07,020 --> 00:03:10,860 "And over these mild, Home County acres, 30 00:03:10,860 --> 00:03:16,860 "soon there will be estate agent, coal merchant, post office, shops 31 00:03:16,860 --> 00:03:20,180 "and rows of neat dwellings, 32 00:03:20,180 --> 00:03:24,300 "all within easy reach of charming countryside." 33 00:03:25,740 --> 00:03:30,060 Bucks, Herts and Middlesex yielded to Metro-Land... 34 00:03:31,220 --> 00:03:36,740 ..and City men could breakfast on the fast train to London town. 35 00:03:47,460 --> 00:03:50,140 Is this Buckingham Palace? 36 00:03:50,140 --> 00:03:52,660 Are we at the Ritz? 37 00:03:52,660 --> 00:03:53,900 No. 38 00:03:53,900 --> 00:04:00,420 This is the Chiltern Court Restaurant built above Baker Street Station. 39 00:04:01,620 --> 00:04:03,660 The gateway 40 00:04:03,660 --> 00:04:08,660 between Metro-Land out there and London down there. 41 00:04:09,780 --> 00:04:13,820 The creation of the Metropolitan Railway. 42 00:04:14,780 --> 00:04:19,060 The brochure shows you how splendid this place was 43 00:04:19,060 --> 00:04:23,260 in 1913, which is about the year it was built. 44 00:04:24,580 --> 00:04:29,700 Here the wives from Pinner and Ruislip, after a day's shopping 45 00:04:29,700 --> 00:04:32,380 at Liberty's or Whiteley's, 46 00:04:32,380 --> 00:04:36,500 would sit, waiting for their husbands 47 00:04:36,500 --> 00:04:41,140 to come up from Cheapside and Mincing Lane, 48 00:04:41,140 --> 00:04:43,660 and while they waited, 49 00:04:43,660 --> 00:04:46,820 they could listen to the strains of the band 50 00:04:46,820 --> 00:04:49,740 playing for the "the dansant" 51 00:04:49,740 --> 00:04:53,460 before they took the train for home. 52 00:04:59,220 --> 00:05:01,860 Early electric, punctual and prompt, 53 00:05:01,860 --> 00:05:05,900 off to those cuttings in the Hampstead Hills, 54 00:05:05,900 --> 00:05:09,820 St John's Wood, Marlborough Road, no longer stations, 55 00:05:09,820 --> 00:05:12,380 and the trains rush through. 56 00:05:18,900 --> 00:05:23,260 This is all that's left of Marlborough Road Station. 57 00:05:23,260 --> 00:05:28,740 Up there, the iron brackets which supported the glass and iron roof, 58 00:05:28,740 --> 00:05:32,980 and do you see that white house up there? 59 00:05:32,980 --> 00:05:36,860 That was where Thomas Hood, the poet, died. 60 00:05:36,860 --> 00:05:43,540 He wrote, "I remember, I remember the house where I was born." The railway cut through his garden. 61 00:05:43,540 --> 00:05:46,300 I remember Marlborough Road Station 62 00:05:46,300 --> 00:05:52,660 because it was the nearest station to the house where lived my future parents-in-law. 63 00:05:56,580 --> 00:06:00,500 Farewell, old booking hall, once grimy brick... 64 00:06:01,740 --> 00:06:06,020 ..but leafy St John's Wood, which you served, remains, 65 00:06:06,020 --> 00:06:10,060 forerunner of the suburbs yet to come, 66 00:06:10,060 --> 00:06:15,100 with its broad avenues, detached and semidetached villas, 67 00:06:15,100 --> 00:06:19,100 where lived artists and writers and military men. 68 00:06:19,100 --> 00:06:21,140 And here, 69 00:06:21,140 --> 00:06:25,260 screened by shrubs, walled in from public view, 70 00:06:25,260 --> 00:06:27,980 lived the kept women. 71 00:06:27,980 --> 00:06:33,100 What Puritan arms have stretched within these rooms 72 00:06:33,100 --> 00:06:36,300 to touch what tender breasts, 73 00:06:36,300 --> 00:06:40,620 as the cab horse stamped in the road outside? 74 00:06:40,620 --> 00:06:45,060 Sweet, secret suburb on the city's rim. 75 00:06:45,060 --> 00:06:47,100 St John's Wood. 76 00:06:49,900 --> 00:06:52,420 Amidst all this frivolity, 77 00:06:52,420 --> 00:06:56,460 in one place, a sinister note is struck. 78 00:06:56,460 --> 00:06:58,980 In that helmeted house, 79 00:06:58,980 --> 00:07:01,500 where rumour has it 80 00:07:01,500 --> 00:07:04,980 the Rev John Hugh Smith Piggott lived, 81 00:07:04,980 --> 00:07:09,460 an Anglican clergyman, whose Clapton congregation 82 00:07:09,460 --> 00:07:13,980 declared him to be Christ, a compliment he accepted. 83 00:07:15,020 --> 00:07:20,940 His country house was called the Agapemone, the abode of love. 84 00:07:20,940 --> 00:07:24,180 The ladies in it called him beloved 85 00:07:24,180 --> 00:07:28,540 and some were summoned to be brides of Christ. 86 00:07:29,660 --> 00:07:33,220 Did they strew their lord with lilies? 87 00:07:33,220 --> 00:07:35,740 I don't know. 88 00:07:35,740 --> 00:07:40,500 But for some reason, this house has an uncanny atmosphere, 89 00:07:40,500 --> 00:07:43,020 threatening and restless. 90 00:07:45,060 --> 00:07:49,100 Someone seems to be looking over your shoulder. 91 00:07:49,100 --> 00:07:51,220 Who is it? 92 00:07:59,380 --> 00:08:02,260 DRAMATIC MUSIC PLAYS 93 00:08:06,060 --> 00:08:10,500 Over the points by electrical traction, 94 00:08:10,500 --> 00:08:14,060 out of the chimneypots, into the openness, 95 00:08:14,060 --> 00:08:18,900 till we come to the suburb that's thought to be commonplace, 96 00:08:18,900 --> 00:08:22,420 home of the gnome and the average citizen, 97 00:08:22,420 --> 00:08:26,460 Sketchley and Unigate, Dolcis and Wallpamur. 98 00:08:28,100 --> 00:08:30,940 # Neasden... 99 00:08:30,940 --> 00:08:34,460 # You won't be sorry that you breezed in 100 00:08:34,460 --> 00:08:37,820 # The traffic lights and yellow lines 101 00:08:37,820 --> 00:08:43,780 # And the illuminated signs All say welcome to the borough that everybody's pleased in 102 00:08:43,780 --> 00:08:45,820 # Neasden 103 00:08:45,820 --> 00:08:49,780 # Where the birds sing in the trees-den 104 00:08:49,780 --> 00:08:54,660 # You can hear the blackbirds coo So why not take the Bakerloo? 105 00:08:54,660 --> 00:08:58,700 # It'll work out that much cheaper If you buy a season. # 106 00:08:58,700 --> 00:09:02,980 But if you did, you'd find a steep slope 107 00:09:02,980 --> 00:09:07,780 ascending to a wide and well-prospected view 108 00:09:07,780 --> 00:09:10,180 with grassy banks 109 00:09:10,180 --> 00:09:13,700 and cunningly planted clumps of trees. 110 00:09:13,700 --> 00:09:18,500 And here Mr Eric Simms in Gladstone Park... 111 00:09:19,500 --> 00:09:23,180 ..keeps a sharp eye on what is going on. 112 00:09:23,180 --> 00:09:25,700 So this is the start... 113 00:09:25,700 --> 00:09:29,740 of the well-known Neasden nature trail. 114 00:09:29,740 --> 00:09:36,020 This Neasden nature trail is something I've developed over the 21 years that I've lived here. 115 00:09:36,020 --> 00:09:42,540 Living in a suburban situation, this park is a tremendous asset for anyone interested in wildlife. 116 00:09:42,540 --> 00:09:49,180 It's a marvellous place to watch young birds at this time of year, which roam over the grass swards. 117 00:09:49,180 --> 00:09:55,220 There are something like 900 pairs of house sparrows within half a mile of my home. 118 00:09:55,220 --> 00:09:57,700 Many can be found in the park. 119 00:09:57,700 --> 00:10:02,940 One of the very common birds round here is the London or feral pigeon. 120 00:10:02,940 --> 00:10:07,620 That's a cock blackbird looking for worms. 121 00:10:10,100 --> 00:10:15,460 That's a hen blackbird which has just come out from the shrubberies. 122 00:10:17,460 --> 00:10:21,980 The second most interesting part of my nature trail at Neasden 123 00:10:21,980 --> 00:10:24,540 are the allotments in Brook Road. 124 00:10:24,540 --> 00:10:29,740 There's such a good view that I can identify birds at a great distance. 125 00:10:29,740 --> 00:10:34,780 I've seen 92 different species of bird within half a mile of my home. 126 00:10:34,780 --> 00:10:37,180 And that's not a bad total. 127 00:10:38,180 --> 00:10:42,580 Beyond Neasden, there was an unimportant hamlet 128 00:10:42,580 --> 00:10:47,100 where for years the Metropolitan didn't bother to stop... 129 00:10:47,100 --> 00:10:48,900 Wembley! 130 00:10:59,100 --> 00:11:02,100 Slushy fields and grass farms, 131 00:11:02,100 --> 00:11:03,780 then... 132 00:11:03,780 --> 00:11:06,140 out of the mist arose 133 00:11:06,140 --> 00:11:08,660 Sir Edward Watkin's dream, 134 00:11:08,660 --> 00:11:11,180 an Eiffel Tower for London. 135 00:11:12,180 --> 00:11:16,100 Sir Edward Watkin, chairman of the line. 136 00:11:16,100 --> 00:11:20,540 Thousands, he thought, would pay to climb the tower, 137 00:11:20,540 --> 00:11:24,060 which would be higher than the one in Paris. 138 00:11:24,060 --> 00:11:28,980 He announced a competition, 500 guineas for the best design. 139 00:11:28,980 --> 00:11:33,460 Never were such flights of Victorian fancy seen. 140 00:11:33,460 --> 00:11:38,420 Civil engineers from Sweden and Thornton Heath, 141 00:11:38,420 --> 00:11:41,180 Rochdale and Constantinople 142 00:11:41,180 --> 00:11:43,220 entered designs. 143 00:11:43,220 --> 00:11:45,780 Cast iron, concrete, 144 00:11:45,780 --> 00:11:48,300 glass, granite and steel, 145 00:11:48,300 --> 00:11:51,420 lifts hydraulic and electric, 146 00:11:51,420 --> 00:11:54,100 a spiral steam railway, 147 00:11:54,100 --> 00:11:56,260 theatres, chapels 148 00:11:56,260 --> 00:11:58,700 and sanatoria in the air. 149 00:11:59,700 --> 00:12:03,580 In 1890, the lucky winner was announced. 150 00:12:03,580 --> 00:12:06,100 It had Turkish baths, 151 00:12:06,100 --> 00:12:08,660 arcades of shops and winter gardens. 152 00:12:10,260 --> 00:12:14,180 Designed by a firm of Scots with a London office, 153 00:12:14,180 --> 00:12:16,780 Stewart, MacLaren and Dunn, 154 00:12:16,780 --> 00:12:21,100 it was to be 150 feet higher than the Eiffel Tower, 155 00:12:21,100 --> 00:12:25,140 but when at last it reached above the trees, 156 00:12:25,140 --> 00:12:29,180 and the first stage was opened to the crowds, 157 00:12:29,180 --> 00:12:33,300 the crowds weren't there. They didn't want to come. 158 00:12:33,300 --> 00:12:37,740 Money ran out. The tower lingered on, 159 00:12:37,740 --> 00:12:41,900 resting and rusting, until it was dismembered... 160 00:12:41,900 --> 00:12:43,940 in 1907. 161 00:12:45,140 --> 00:12:49,660 This is where London's failed Eiffel Tower stood - 162 00:12:49,660 --> 00:12:52,740 Watkin's Folly, as it was called. 163 00:12:52,740 --> 00:12:55,300 Here, on this Middlesex turf. 164 00:12:56,300 --> 00:13:00,580 And since then, the site has become quite well known. 165 00:13:00,580 --> 00:13:03,180 CROWD CHEERS 166 00:13:06,300 --> 00:13:11,180 It was here, I can just remember the excitement and the hope. 167 00:13:19,460 --> 00:13:21,700 St George's Day... 168 00:13:21,700 --> 00:13:23,180 1924. 169 00:13:33,300 --> 00:13:37,700 The British Empire Exhibition at Wembley, 170 00:13:37,700 --> 00:13:40,220 opened by King George V. 171 00:13:41,300 --> 00:13:43,860 Ah, yes, those imperial pavilions. 172 00:13:44,900 --> 00:13:51,340 India, Sierra Leone, Fiji, with their suntanned sentinels of Empire outside. 173 00:13:52,340 --> 00:13:54,500 To me, they were more interesting 174 00:13:54,500 --> 00:14:01,620 than the palaces of industry and engineering, which were too like my father's factory. 175 00:14:01,620 --> 00:14:04,140 That was the Palace of Arts, 176 00:14:04,140 --> 00:14:08,860 where I used to wait while my father saw the living models 177 00:14:08,860 --> 00:14:11,420 in Pear's Palace of Beauty. 178 00:14:12,580 --> 00:14:17,580 How well I remember the Palace of Arts. Massive and simple outside, 179 00:14:17,580 --> 00:14:20,140 almost pagan in its sombre strength. 180 00:14:21,340 --> 00:14:23,380 But inside... 181 00:14:23,380 --> 00:14:25,420 ORGAN MUSIC 182 00:14:47,620 --> 00:14:51,820 This is the basilica in the Palace of Arts. 183 00:14:51,820 --> 00:14:57,380 It was used for displaying the best church art of 1924. 184 00:14:58,580 --> 00:15:01,100 AK Lawrence, Eric Gill, 185 00:15:01,100 --> 00:15:04,660 Mary Adshead, Colin Gill, and so on. 186 00:15:04,660 --> 00:15:08,700 Today it's used for housing the props of the pantomime, 187 00:15:08,700 --> 00:15:12,740 Cinderella on ice and that kind of thing. 188 00:15:12,740 --> 00:15:19,060 Really, it's quite right because church and stage have always been closely connected. 189 00:15:19,060 --> 00:15:21,700 SQUEALING AND SCREAMING 190 00:15:33,260 --> 00:15:37,780 The Pleasure Park was the best thing about the exhibition. 191 00:15:37,780 --> 00:15:42,620 The King and Queen enjoyed it, too. There they are. 192 00:15:58,180 --> 00:16:02,820 Oh, bygone Wembley. Where's the pleasure now? 193 00:16:04,060 --> 00:16:06,740 The temples stare. 194 00:16:06,740 --> 00:16:09,420 The Empire passes by. 195 00:16:09,420 --> 00:16:13,340 This was the grandest palace of them all. 196 00:16:13,340 --> 00:16:17,780 The British Government Pavilion and the famous Wembley lions. 197 00:16:18,780 --> 00:16:23,580 Now they guard an empty warehouse site. 198 00:16:30,740 --> 00:16:35,020 But still people kept on coming to Wembley. 199 00:16:35,020 --> 00:16:38,900 The show houses of the newly built estates. 200 00:16:38,900 --> 00:16:42,860 A younger, brighter, homelier Metro-Land. 201 00:16:42,860 --> 00:16:45,540 Rusholme, Russells, 202 00:16:45,540 --> 00:16:48,620 Rustlings, rusty tiles, 203 00:16:48,620 --> 00:16:51,020 Rose Hatch, 204 00:16:51,020 --> 00:16:52,620 Rosehill, 205 00:16:52,620 --> 00:16:55,540 Roselea, Rosemount, 206 00:16:55,540 --> 00:16:57,620 rose roof, 207 00:16:57,620 --> 00:17:01,780 each one is slightly different from the next. 208 00:17:01,780 --> 00:17:04,660 A bastion of individual taste 209 00:17:04,660 --> 00:17:08,580 on fields that once were bright with buttercups. 210 00:17:09,580 --> 00:17:12,100 Deep in rural Middlesex, 211 00:17:12,100 --> 00:17:14,940 the county that inspired Keats... 212 00:17:16,260 --> 00:17:20,220 "Magic casements opening on the dawn." 213 00:17:21,740 --> 00:17:26,580 A speculative builder here at Kingsbury let himself go... 214 00:17:26,580 --> 00:17:28,740 in the '20s. 215 00:17:38,180 --> 00:17:42,020 And look what a lot of country there is. 216 00:17:42,020 --> 00:17:44,700 Fields and farms between the houses. 217 00:17:46,180 --> 00:17:49,340 Oaks and elms above the rooftops. 218 00:17:57,540 --> 00:18:01,580 The smart, suburban railway knew its place 219 00:18:01,580 --> 00:18:05,780 and did not dare approach too near the Hill. 220 00:18:07,780 --> 00:18:13,500 Here at the foot of Harrow Hill, alongside the Metropolitan electric trains, 221 00:18:13,500 --> 00:18:20,020 tradesmen from Harrow built - in the '80s or '90s, I should think, from the look of the buildings - 222 00:18:20,020 --> 00:18:24,580 these houses, and a nice little speculation they were. 223 00:18:24,580 --> 00:18:26,860 Quiet, near the railway station, 224 00:18:26,860 --> 00:18:30,940 with their own church and public house, 225 00:18:30,940 --> 00:18:36,540 and they're named reverently after the great people of Harrow School, 226 00:18:36,540 --> 00:18:39,980 Drury, Vaughan, Butler. 227 00:18:39,980 --> 00:18:42,500 SCHOOLBOYS SING 228 00:19:04,580 --> 00:19:10,140 Valiantly, that Elizabethan foundation at the top of the Hill 229 00:19:10,140 --> 00:19:12,780 has held the developers at bay. 230 00:19:12,780 --> 00:19:16,820 Harrow School fought to keep this hillside green. 231 00:19:16,820 --> 00:19:20,860 But for all its tradition and elegance, 232 00:19:20,860 --> 00:19:26,380 it couldn't wholly stem the rising tide of Metro-Land. 233 00:19:38,980 --> 00:19:43,140 The healthy air of Harrow in the 1920s and '30s, 234 00:19:43,140 --> 00:19:45,700 when these villas were built. 235 00:19:45,700 --> 00:19:51,300 You paid a deposit and eventually, we hope, you had your own house 236 00:19:51,300 --> 00:19:55,740 with its garage and front garden and back garden. 237 00:19:55,740 --> 00:19:58,740 A verge in front of your house 238 00:19:58,740 --> 00:20:01,340 and grass and trees for the dog. 239 00:20:02,580 --> 00:20:06,740 Variety created in each facade of the houses 240 00:20:06,740 --> 00:20:09,420 and in the colouring of the trees. 241 00:20:09,420 --> 00:20:14,100 In fact, the country had come to the suburbs. 242 00:20:15,100 --> 00:20:17,820 Roses are blooming in Metro-Land, 243 00:20:17,820 --> 00:20:20,700 just as they do in the brochure. 244 00:20:32,900 --> 00:20:35,540 # Grab your coat and get your hat 245 00:20:35,540 --> 00:20:39,220 # Leave your worry on the doorstep 246 00:20:39,220 --> 00:20:41,820 # Just direct your feet 247 00:20:41,820 --> 00:20:44,860 # To the sunny side of the street 248 00:20:45,940 --> 00:20:50,660 # Can't you hear a pit-a-pat? And that happy tune is your step 249 00:20:52,220 --> 00:20:55,420 # Life can be so sweet 250 00:20:55,420 --> 00:20:58,420 # On the sunny side of the street 251 00:20:58,420 --> 00:21:00,900 # I used to walk in the shade 252 00:21:00,900 --> 00:21:04,700 # With those blues on parade 253 00:21:04,700 --> 00:21:07,780 # But I'm not afraid 254 00:21:07,780 --> 00:21:10,900 # This rover crossed over 255 00:21:10,900 --> 00:21:14,140 # If I never have a cent 256 00:21:14,140 --> 00:21:17,220 # I'll be rich as Rockefeller 257 00:21:17,220 --> 00:21:20,460 # Gold dust at my feet 258 00:21:20,460 --> 00:21:23,900 # On the sunny side of the street... # 259 00:21:34,300 --> 00:21:38,980 Along the serried avenues of Harrow's garden villages, 260 00:21:38,980 --> 00:21:44,980 households rise and shine and settle down to the Sunday morning rhythm. 261 00:21:44,980 --> 00:21:51,380 "Hello and best wishes, everyone, and happy birthday, Mary and Jean," begins this batch of dedications. 262 00:21:51,380 --> 00:21:58,420 Campbell Gooding of Newfarm in Queensland bids me to greet Mary and Dick Shenaghan of Teddington, 263 00:21:58,420 --> 00:22:04,260 Ian Ferguson, studying hard at Southampton University - they reckon! - 264 00:22:04,260 --> 00:22:06,420 and "the one and only" Doug Sewell. 265 00:22:06,420 --> 00:22:11,580 This is a record for you all from the people who sent the messages. 266 00:22:11,580 --> 00:22:15,220 Down By The Lazy River with the Osmonds. 267 00:22:15,220 --> 00:22:17,580 # What you doing tonight? 268 00:22:17,580 --> 00:22:19,820 # You got no place to go 269 00:22:21,220 --> 00:22:24,140 # Gotta get out of the city 270 00:22:24,140 --> 00:22:28,100 # You know it won't be long till we'll be, we'll be... 271 00:22:28,100 --> 00:22:30,660 # Down, I said down... 272 00:22:30,660 --> 00:22:33,660 # Come on down... 273 00:22:33,660 --> 00:22:38,980 # Down by the lazy river Come as you please 274 00:22:38,980 --> 00:22:40,100 # Oh, yeah... 275 00:22:40,100 --> 00:22:45,780 # Down by the lazy river One big family 276 00:22:45,780 --> 00:22:50,420 # If you're all alone, you won't be long 277 00:22:50,420 --> 00:22:54,060 # Just bring your guitar and sing your song 278 00:22:54,060 --> 00:22:56,500 # Down by the lazy river... # 279 00:22:57,500 --> 00:23:00,100 This is Grim's Dyke in Harrow Weald. 280 00:23:00,100 --> 00:23:06,660 I've always regarded it as a prototype of all suburban homes in southern England. 281 00:23:07,660 --> 00:23:11,780 It was designed by the famous Norman Shaw a century ago. 282 00:23:11,780 --> 00:23:14,340 Merry England outside, 283 00:23:14,340 --> 00:23:17,340 haunting and romantic within. 284 00:23:17,340 --> 00:23:21,380 With Norman Shaw, one thing leads to another. 285 00:23:22,780 --> 00:23:25,380 I came out of a low entrance hall 286 00:23:25,380 --> 00:23:27,900 into this bigger hall. 287 00:23:27,900 --> 00:23:31,900 And then one doesn't know what's coming next. 288 00:23:31,900 --> 00:23:34,420 There's an arch. 289 00:23:34,420 --> 00:23:36,940 If I go up there, 290 00:23:36,940 --> 00:23:39,540 I'll see goodness knows what. 291 00:23:39,540 --> 00:23:42,060 Let's go and look. 292 00:23:51,980 --> 00:23:55,660 There's a sense of mounting excitement. 293 00:23:55,660 --> 00:23:59,180 Have I strayed into a Hitchcock film? 294 00:24:02,060 --> 00:24:04,580 DISTANT BABBLE OF VOICES 295 00:24:30,620 --> 00:24:33,100 TWO BANGS 296 00:24:33,100 --> 00:24:35,340 Ladies, 297 00:24:35,340 --> 00:24:39,860 good afternoon and welcome to the Byron Luncheon Club. 298 00:24:39,860 --> 00:24:46,060 I would like to give a very warm welcome to our speaker, Mrs Elizabeth Cooper. 299 00:24:46,060 --> 00:24:47,700 APPLAUSE 300 00:24:50,060 --> 00:24:53,580 I would like to thank you, Madam Chairman, 301 00:24:53,580 --> 00:24:57,820 first of all for inviting me to this beautiful lunch, 302 00:24:57,820 --> 00:25:03,860 beautiful room and bevy of beautifully dressed and beautifully hatted ladies. 303 00:25:03,860 --> 00:25:09,700 I think it's the most beautiful house in Harrow and one of the most interesting, 304 00:25:09,700 --> 00:25:14,260 architecturally and historically. Dear things, indeed it is. 305 00:25:15,340 --> 00:25:19,980 Tall, brick chimneystacks, not hidden away, but prominent, 306 00:25:19,980 --> 00:25:22,820 and part of the design. 307 00:25:22,820 --> 00:25:26,380 Local bricks, local tiles, local timber, 308 00:25:26,380 --> 00:25:28,780 no facade is the same. 309 00:25:29,820 --> 00:25:35,900 Gabled windows gaze through leaded lights down winding lawns. 310 00:25:35,900 --> 00:25:37,940 It isn't a fake. 311 00:25:37,940 --> 00:25:43,420 It's a new practical house for a newly rich Victorian. 312 00:25:43,420 --> 00:25:45,900 Strong, impressive... 313 00:25:45,900 --> 00:25:47,420 original. 314 00:25:48,380 --> 00:25:51,300 And yonder gloomy pool contained, 315 00:25:51,300 --> 00:25:53,820 on May 29th 1911, 316 00:25:53,820 --> 00:25:56,340 the dead body... 317 00:25:56,340 --> 00:25:58,460 of WS Gilbert, 318 00:25:58,460 --> 00:26:01,020 Grim's Dyke's most famous owner 319 00:26:01,020 --> 00:26:05,100 and Sullivan's partner in the Savoy operas. 320 00:26:05,100 --> 00:26:09,260 After a good luncheon, he went bathing with two girls, 321 00:26:09,260 --> 00:26:11,820 Ruby Preece and Winifred Emery. 322 00:26:11,820 --> 00:26:14,500 Ruby found she was out of her depth. 323 00:26:16,180 --> 00:26:20,580 In rescuing her, Gilbert died of a heart attack 324 00:26:20,580 --> 00:26:23,140 here, in this pond. 325 00:26:27,420 --> 00:26:31,420 Funereal from Harrow draws the train. 326 00:26:31,420 --> 00:26:34,500 On, on, north-westwards, 327 00:26:34,500 --> 00:26:37,020 London far away, 328 00:26:37,020 --> 00:26:41,260 and stations start to look quite countrified. 329 00:26:44,340 --> 00:26:50,860 Pinner, a parish of 1,000 souls, till railways gave it many thousands more. 330 00:26:50,860 --> 00:26:54,420 Pinner is famous for its village fair 331 00:26:54,420 --> 00:26:58,500 where once a year, St John The Baptist's Day 332 00:26:58,500 --> 00:27:02,740 shows all the climbing High Street filled with stalls. 333 00:27:02,740 --> 00:27:06,980 It is the feast day of the parish saint, 334 00:27:06,980 --> 00:27:10,340 a medieval fair in Metro-Land. 335 00:27:10,340 --> 00:27:13,140 21 and under, 336 00:27:13,140 --> 00:27:15,900 any prize you like! 337 00:27:15,900 --> 00:27:19,060 Any prize you like! 338 00:27:46,700 --> 00:27:51,980 When I was young, there stood among the fields a lonely station, 339 00:27:51,980 --> 00:27:54,540 once called Stanley Lodge, 340 00:27:54,540 --> 00:27:59,100 its wooden platform crunched by hobnailed shoes. 341 00:28:00,380 --> 00:28:03,900 And this is where the healthier got out. 342 00:28:03,900 --> 00:28:07,780 # I strolled down the fairway of love 343 00:28:07,780 --> 00:28:12,020 # On the day I lost my heart 344 00:28:12,020 --> 00:28:15,940 # I found it was heaven above 345 00:28:15,940 --> 00:28:19,660 # And I was bunkered from the start 346 00:28:21,140 --> 00:28:24,220 # I found I was soon in the rough 347 00:28:24,220 --> 00:28:27,780 # Now sadly do I roam 348 00:28:27,780 --> 00:28:32,260 # For I've got a driver and six little niblicks 349 00:28:32,260 --> 00:28:35,780 # Waiting at home sweet home. # 350 00:28:40,940 --> 00:28:46,140 One of the joys of Metro-Land was the nearness of golf to London. 351 00:28:46,140 --> 00:28:50,780 Moor Park, Rickmansworth was a great attraction. 352 00:28:52,700 --> 00:28:56,740 Now, eye on the ball, left knee slightly bent, 353 00:28:56,740 --> 00:28:58,780 slow back... 354 00:28:58,780 --> 00:29:00,340 Missed. 355 00:29:01,340 --> 00:29:03,700 HE LAUGHS 356 00:29:06,820 --> 00:29:09,540 Well, that wasn't up to much. 357 00:29:09,540 --> 00:29:13,980 Perhaps the clubhouse is more exciting. 358 00:29:21,900 --> 00:29:26,500 Did ever golf club have a 19th hole so sumptuous as this? 359 00:29:26,500 --> 00:29:29,300 Fit for a monarch. 360 00:29:44,700 --> 00:29:48,540 Did ever golf club have so fine a hall? 361 00:29:49,580 --> 00:29:52,100 Venetian decor, 1732. 362 00:29:57,380 --> 00:30:00,940 And yonder dome is not a dome at all, 363 00:30:00,940 --> 00:30:05,260 but painted in the semblance of a dome. 364 00:30:05,260 --> 00:30:09,620 The sculptured figures all are done in paint, 365 00:30:09,620 --> 00:30:14,060 that lean towards us with so rapt a look. 366 00:30:15,140 --> 00:30:18,700 How skilfully the artist takes us in. 367 00:30:34,340 --> 00:30:38,380 What Georgian wit these classic gods have heard 368 00:30:38,380 --> 00:30:42,220 who now must listen to the golfer's tale 369 00:30:42,220 --> 00:30:46,260 of holes in one and how I missed that putt, 370 00:30:46,260 --> 00:30:50,300 hooked at the seventh, sliced across the tenth, 371 00:30:50,300 --> 00:30:52,980 but ended on the 17th all square. 372 00:30:54,020 --> 00:30:56,540 Ye gods, ye gods, 373 00:30:56,540 --> 00:30:59,060 how comical we are. 374 00:30:59,060 --> 00:31:03,380 Would Jove have been appointed captain here? 375 00:31:04,820 --> 00:31:09,460 See how exclusive thine estate Moor Park. 376 00:31:15,300 --> 00:31:21,580 And how are you? I'm very well. How are you? I feel a lot better now seeing you. Even in this weather? 377 00:31:21,580 --> 00:31:27,620 Even in this weather, yes. I'd sooner see you at any time than this rain. 378 00:31:29,500 --> 00:31:32,140 See you later. Bye-bye, dear. 379 00:31:32,140 --> 00:31:33,420 Bye. 380 00:31:44,180 --> 00:31:48,220 Can you let me through, please? Where have you come from? 381 00:31:48,220 --> 00:31:54,740 Visiting a friend on the estate. What's her name? Why do you want to know? It's a private estate. 382 00:31:54,740 --> 00:32:00,900 If you don't tell me where you've come from, you've got to go all the way back again. It's pouring... 383 00:32:00,900 --> 00:32:07,500 I'm awfully sorry, love, I only work here. I'm not allowed to let you through. Go the same way back. 384 00:32:20,780 --> 00:32:23,140 Onwards, onwards, 385 00:32:23,140 --> 00:32:27,220 north of the border, down Hertfordshire way. 386 00:32:27,220 --> 00:32:30,060 MUSIC: "When The Battle Is O'er" 387 00:32:35,980 --> 00:32:38,500 The Croxley Green Revels, 388 00:32:38,500 --> 00:32:43,020 a tradition that stretches back to 1952. 389 00:32:45,740 --> 00:32:49,540 For pageantry is deep in all our hearts. 390 00:32:49,540 --> 00:32:54,260 And this, for many a girl, is her greatest day. 391 00:33:13,500 --> 00:33:16,540 Following this year's royal court, 392 00:33:16,540 --> 00:33:20,020 we have the retiring queen and her court. 393 00:33:20,020 --> 00:33:24,860 The retiring queen - Catherine Fretwell of Rickmansworth School. 394 00:33:26,860 --> 00:33:31,420 The new queen will be crowned by the retiring queen 395 00:33:31,420 --> 00:33:38,220 and then the page will set the whole of our afternoon programme into action. 396 00:33:38,220 --> 00:33:42,980 I now crown you Queen of the Revels of Croxley Green 1972. 397 00:34:00,140 --> 00:34:02,820 To my people in Croxley Green, 398 00:34:02,820 --> 00:34:04,500 greetings. 399 00:34:04,500 --> 00:34:11,180 On this memorable day, I am proud to greet you as your Croxley Green Revels Queen. 400 00:34:11,180 --> 00:34:13,980 I am happy that I have been chosen 401 00:34:13,980 --> 00:34:17,660 and I ask you, one and all, 402 00:34:17,660 --> 00:34:21,500 to make the year 1972 a very happy one. 403 00:34:21,500 --> 00:34:27,260 In this very lovely corner of England, of which we are so proud, 404 00:34:27,260 --> 00:34:31,420 let us try to find peace and goodwill 405 00:34:31,420 --> 00:34:34,500 in our homes and in our community. 406 00:34:35,500 --> 00:34:39,340 Let us try and bring happiness to those around us 407 00:34:39,340 --> 00:34:43,060 and to those less fortunate than ourselves. 408 00:34:43,060 --> 00:34:47,340 Spoken by Jilly Garwood at Croxley Green, Hertfordshire. 409 00:34:49,340 --> 00:34:53,180 Large, uneventful fields of dairy farms. 410 00:34:53,180 --> 00:34:57,420 Slowly winds the Chess brimful of trout. 411 00:34:58,620 --> 00:35:02,940 An unregarded part of Hertfordshire awaits its fate. 412 00:35:03,940 --> 00:35:08,020 And in the heights above, Chorley Wood Village, 413 00:35:08,020 --> 00:35:10,700 where in '89 the railway came 414 00:35:10,700 --> 00:35:15,620 and wood smoke mingled with the sulphur fumes 415 00:35:15,620 --> 00:35:19,860 and people now could catch the early train to London 416 00:35:19,860 --> 00:35:22,380 and be home just after tea. 417 00:35:31,860 --> 00:35:35,660 This is, I think, essential Metro-Land. 418 00:35:35,660 --> 00:35:42,060 Much trouble has been taken to preserve the country quality surviving here. 419 00:35:42,060 --> 00:35:45,300 Oak, hazel, hawthorn, 420 00:35:45,300 --> 00:35:51,020 gorse and sandy tracks, better for sport than farming, I suspect. 421 00:35:55,740 --> 00:35:58,300 Common and cricket pitch. 422 00:35:58,300 --> 00:36:00,860 Church school and church. 423 00:36:00,860 --> 00:36:03,780 All are reminders of a country past. 424 00:36:05,580 --> 00:36:07,460 Yes! 425 00:36:07,460 --> 00:36:11,700 Rounder! Rounder! Rounder! Rounder! 426 00:36:11,700 --> 00:36:13,620 Run! 427 00:36:13,620 --> 00:36:18,580 Mrs Hill, we've got eight rounders now. 428 00:36:20,060 --> 00:36:25,180 In the orchards beyond the common, one spring morning in 1900, 429 00:36:25,180 --> 00:36:29,020 a young architect, Charles Voysey, and his wife 430 00:36:29,020 --> 00:36:33,220 decided to build themselves a family home. 431 00:36:33,220 --> 00:36:38,700 I think it was the parent of thousands of simple English houses. 432 00:36:38,700 --> 00:36:41,940 All must be plain and practical. 433 00:36:41,940 --> 00:36:48,540 That sloping buttress wall is to counteract the outward thrust of the heavy slate roof. 434 00:36:48,540 --> 00:36:53,220 Do you notice those stepped tiles below the chimneypots? 435 00:36:53,220 --> 00:36:57,060 They're there to throw off the driving rain. 436 00:36:57,060 --> 00:37:02,580 That lead roof ridge is pinched up at the end for the same reason. 437 00:37:02,580 --> 00:37:09,220 Horizontal courses of red tiles in the white walls protect windows and openings. 438 00:37:10,220 --> 00:37:14,900 It's hard to believe that so simple and stalwart a house 439 00:37:14,900 --> 00:37:17,460 was built in Queen Victoria's reign. 440 00:37:19,540 --> 00:37:23,620 Voysey liked to design every detail in his house. 441 00:37:24,940 --> 00:37:27,780 For instance, that knocker - Voysey. 442 00:37:28,820 --> 00:37:32,340 Typical curious shaped handle - Voysey. 443 00:37:32,340 --> 00:37:34,380 And this... 444 00:37:34,380 --> 00:37:36,940 hand-wrought iron hinge, 445 00:37:36,940 --> 00:37:43,220 with what seems to be his signature tune, the heart, there at the end of the hinge. 446 00:37:43,220 --> 00:37:48,220 It's here round the letterbox. It's also round the keyhole. 447 00:37:48,220 --> 00:37:51,740 And it seems to be on the key. That's a Voysey key. 448 00:37:51,740 --> 00:37:56,340 In the house, he did everything down to the knives and forks. 449 00:38:00,020 --> 00:38:04,180 The plan of the house radiates out from this hall. 450 00:38:04,180 --> 00:38:06,940 Extreme simplicity is the keynote. 451 00:38:06,940 --> 00:38:09,700 No unnecessary decoration. 452 00:38:09,700 --> 00:38:12,180 The balusters here... 453 00:38:12,180 --> 00:38:15,340 for the stairs, straight verticals, 454 00:38:15,340 --> 00:38:20,340 giving an impression of great height to this simple hall. 455 00:38:21,380 --> 00:38:25,940 But, as a matter of fact, it isn't a particularly high house. 456 00:38:25,940 --> 00:38:28,460 In fact, it's rather small. 457 00:38:28,460 --> 00:38:33,220 I knew Mr Voysey and I saw Mrs Voysey. They were small people. 458 00:38:33,220 --> 00:38:37,580 In case you think it's a large house, I'll just walk... 459 00:38:37,580 --> 00:38:41,540 I'm fat, I know, and I'm not particularly tall. 460 00:38:41,540 --> 00:38:48,060 I'll stand by the door here and you compare my height with the ledge and the door. 461 00:39:00,940 --> 00:39:03,460 A round window... 462 00:39:03,460 --> 00:39:05,980 on the garden side of the house. 463 00:39:05,980 --> 00:39:08,500 And a typical Voysey detail. 464 00:39:08,500 --> 00:39:11,260 This pane which opens 465 00:39:11,260 --> 00:39:13,780 to let in the air 466 00:39:13,780 --> 00:39:18,420 from Beechy Bucks, which is just on the other side of the road. 467 00:39:26,900 --> 00:39:29,420 Back to the simple life. 468 00:39:29,420 --> 00:39:36,180 Back to nature. To a shady retreat in the reeds and rushes of the River Chess. 469 00:39:36,180 --> 00:39:40,980 The lure of Metro-Land was remoteness and quiet. 470 00:39:40,980 --> 00:39:45,100 This is what a brochure of the '20s said... 471 00:39:45,100 --> 00:39:47,740 "It's the trees, 472 00:39:47,740 --> 00:39:50,100 "the fairy dingles 473 00:39:50,100 --> 00:39:56,140 "and the 101 things in which Dame Nature's fingers have lingered long 474 00:39:56,140 --> 00:39:59,060 "in setting out this beautiful array 475 00:39:59,060 --> 00:40:04,860 "of trout stream, wooded slope, meadow and hilltop sites. 476 00:40:04,860 --> 00:40:09,700 "Send a postcard for the homestead of your dreams 477 00:40:09,700 --> 00:40:13,900 "to Loudwater Estate, Chorley Wood." 478 00:40:26,180 --> 00:40:30,500 # With 1,000 little stars With 1,000 little stars 479 00:40:30,500 --> 00:40:33,060 # We can decorate the ceiling 480 00:40:33,060 --> 00:40:36,380 # With an optimistic feeling 481 00:40:36,380 --> 00:40:39,540 # We can build a little home 482 00:40:39,540 --> 00:40:43,460 # Every single little dream Every single little dream 483 00:40:43,460 --> 00:40:46,180 # Is a shingle or a rafter 484 00:40:46,180 --> 00:40:49,420 # We can paint the house with laughter 485 00:40:49,420 --> 00:40:52,820 # When we build a little home 486 00:40:52,820 --> 00:40:58,940 # It's not a palace, nor a poorhouse But the rent is absolutely free 487 00:40:58,940 --> 00:41:03,140 # This is my house, but it's your house 488 00:41:03,140 --> 00:41:05,780 # If you'll come and live with me 489 00:41:05,780 --> 00:41:09,580 # With a carpet on the floor With a carpet on the floor 490 00:41:09,580 --> 00:41:12,420 # Made of buttercups and clover 491 00:41:12,420 --> 00:41:15,260 # All our troubles will be over 492 00:41:15,260 --> 00:41:17,940 # When we build our little home. # 493 00:41:22,580 --> 00:41:26,380 I'm on! I'm on this end! 494 00:41:26,380 --> 00:41:30,060 Oh, happy outdoor life in Chorley Wood, 495 00:41:30,060 --> 00:41:34,660 in Daddy's swim pool, while old Spot looks on 496 00:41:34,660 --> 00:41:38,460 and Susan dreams of super summer hols 497 00:41:38,460 --> 00:41:42,660 whilst chlorinated wavelets brush the banks. 498 00:41:42,660 --> 00:41:46,340 Oh, happy indoor life in Chorley Wood, 499 00:41:46,340 --> 00:41:50,700 where strangest dreams of all are realised. 500 00:41:50,700 --> 00:41:54,580 ORGAN MUSIC Mellifluating out from modern brick, 501 00:41:54,580 --> 00:41:58,220 the pipe dream of a local man, Len Rawle. 502 00:41:58,220 --> 00:42:02,220 For, pipe by pipe and stock by stock, 503 00:42:02,220 --> 00:42:07,340 he moved out of the Empire Cinema, Leicester Square, 504 00:42:07,340 --> 00:42:09,860 the mighty Wurlitzer, 505 00:42:09,860 --> 00:42:14,300 till the huge instrument filled half his house 506 00:42:14,300 --> 00:42:18,580 with all its multitude of sound effects. 507 00:43:13,020 --> 00:43:15,660 ORGAN MAKES STEAM TRAIN SOUNDS 508 00:43:36,140 --> 00:43:38,660 Steam took us onwards 509 00:43:38,660 --> 00:43:40,860 through the ripening fields, 510 00:43:40,860 --> 00:43:43,980 ripe for development, 511 00:43:43,980 --> 00:43:48,020 where the landscape yields clay for warm brick, 512 00:43:48,020 --> 00:43:50,580 timber for post and rail, 513 00:43:50,580 --> 00:43:54,700 through Amersham to Aylesbury and the Vale. 514 00:43:54,700 --> 00:43:57,340 In those wet fields, 515 00:43:57,340 --> 00:43:59,940 the railway didn't pay. 516 00:43:59,940 --> 00:44:02,940 The Metro stops at Amersham today. 517 00:44:08,220 --> 00:44:10,540 In 1931, 518 00:44:10,540 --> 00:44:14,380 all Buckinghamshire was scandalised 519 00:44:14,380 --> 00:44:16,940 by the appearance 520 00:44:16,940 --> 00:44:21,140 high above Amersham of a concrete house 521 00:44:21,140 --> 00:44:24,660 in the shape of a letter Y. 522 00:44:24,660 --> 00:44:27,580 It was built for a young professor 523 00:44:27,580 --> 00:44:31,860 by a young architect, Amyas Connell. 524 00:44:31,860 --> 00:44:34,860 They called it High And Over. 525 00:44:35,860 --> 00:44:40,820 "I am the home of a 20th-century family," it proclaimed, 526 00:44:40,820 --> 00:44:45,260 "that loves air and sunlight and open country." 527 00:44:46,820 --> 00:44:52,700 It started a style called moderne, perhaps rather old-fashioned today. 528 00:44:54,780 --> 00:45:01,700 And one day, poor thing, it woke up and found developers in its back garden. 529 00:45:01,700 --> 00:45:04,220 MUSIC: "Everything I Own" 530 00:45:05,900 --> 00:45:09,580 Goodbye, high hopes and overconfidence. 531 00:45:14,100 --> 00:45:18,700 In fact, it's probably goodbye, England. 532 00:45:34,300 --> 00:45:36,860 Where are the advertisements? 533 00:45:36,860 --> 00:45:41,260 Where's the shopping arcade? The coal merchants? 534 00:45:41,260 --> 00:45:43,700 And the parked cars? 535 00:45:43,700 --> 00:45:49,740 This is a part of the Metropolitan Railway that's been entirely forgotten. 536 00:45:49,740 --> 00:45:52,300 Beyond Aylesbury it lies 537 00:45:52,300 --> 00:45:54,580 in flat fields 538 00:45:54,580 --> 00:45:56,700 with huge elms 539 00:45:56,700 --> 00:45:58,940 and distant blue hills. 540 00:45:58,940 --> 00:46:01,500 Quainton Road Station. 541 00:46:01,500 --> 00:46:08,380 It was to have been the Clapham Junction of the rural part of the Metropolitan. 542 00:46:09,380 --> 00:46:14,020 With what hopes this place was built in 1890. 543 00:46:15,060 --> 00:46:19,100 They hoped that trains would run down the main line there 544 00:46:19,100 --> 00:46:22,980 from London to the Midlands and the North. 545 00:46:22,980 --> 00:46:29,500 They'd come from the Midlands and the North, rushing through here to London and a Channel tunnel 546 00:46:29,500 --> 00:46:31,980 and then on to Paris. 547 00:46:31,980 --> 00:46:34,500 But, alas, all that's happened 548 00:46:34,500 --> 00:46:37,020 is that there... 549 00:46:37,020 --> 00:46:42,420 a line curves away to the last of the Metropolitan stations 550 00:46:42,420 --> 00:46:46,100 in the country, in far Buckinghamshire, 551 00:46:46,100 --> 00:46:48,700 which was at Verney Junction. 552 00:46:48,700 --> 00:46:51,340 And I can remember sitting here 553 00:46:51,340 --> 00:46:53,900 on a warm autumn evening 554 00:46:53,900 --> 00:46:55,940 in 1929 555 00:46:55,940 --> 00:46:59,180 and seeing the Brill tram 556 00:46:59,180 --> 00:47:01,740 from the platform on the other side 557 00:47:01,740 --> 00:47:03,780 with steam up 558 00:47:03,780 --> 00:47:08,380 ready to take two or three passengers through oil-lit halts 559 00:47:08,380 --> 00:47:12,380 and over level crossings, a rather bumpy journey, 560 00:47:12,380 --> 00:47:14,500 to a station 561 00:47:14,500 --> 00:47:18,940 not far from the remote hilltop village of Brill. 562 00:47:23,300 --> 00:47:28,980 The houses of Metro-Land never got as far as Verney Junction. 563 00:47:30,100 --> 00:47:32,580 Grass triumphs. 564 00:47:32,580 --> 00:47:35,220 And I must say I'm rather glad. 565 00:48:08,380 --> 00:48:12,780 Subtitles by BBC Broadcast