1 00:00:04,720 --> 00:00:07,920 I'm on the move in six of the greatest cities in the world, 2 00:00:08,080 --> 00:00:11,280 and I'm on the trail of their top movers and shakers. 3 00:00:11,440 --> 00:00:14,440 And they're not all cut from the same cloth. 4 00:00:14,600 --> 00:00:18,280 In our globalised world, don't make the mistake of thinking 5 00:00:18,400 --> 00:00:20,200 everywhere is now the same. 6 00:00:20,360 --> 00:00:23,000 Each great city marches to it's own tune. 7 00:00:25,800 --> 00:00:29,440 My own background is diplomacy, cultivating networks. 8 00:00:29,600 --> 00:00:31,760 As an ambassador, my job was to get to know 9 00:00:31,920 --> 00:00:34,400 some of the most powerful people in the world, 10 00:00:34,560 --> 00:00:36,760 and find out what really makes them tick. 11 00:00:38,800 --> 00:00:44,080 Crime, glamour, power and influence, it'll all be there. 12 00:00:44,240 --> 00:00:48,280 In these six cities, I'll grapple with the dark, Machiavellian heart 13 00:00:48,440 --> 00:00:54,120 of politics, I'll witness up close the lives of the immensely rich. 14 00:00:54,280 --> 00:00:57,840 And I'll get into the minds of those who really rule the roost. 15 00:00:59,280 --> 00:01:02,440 This is a journey to uncover the networks of power. 16 00:01:34,440 --> 00:01:37,240 When I joined the Foreign Office, my first posting was here 17 00:01:37,400 --> 00:01:41,640 to Moscow, home to the Kremlin, from where the Soviet Politburo 18 00:01:41,760 --> 00:01:43,520 once controlled half of Europe. 19 00:01:46,920 --> 00:01:50,400 28 years later and I'm back in town, I'm riding in from the airport 20 00:01:50,560 --> 00:01:53,360 in a venerable Soviet limo called a Chaika, 21 00:01:53,520 --> 00:01:57,160 in the old days they used to dish them out to high party officials. 22 00:01:57,280 --> 00:01:59,200 But who's in charge today? 23 00:01:59,320 --> 00:02:00,720 That's what I'm here to find out. 24 00:02:03,520 --> 00:02:06,920 I'll be staying at the famous Ukraina, which was once 25 00:02:07,080 --> 00:02:09,440 the world's tallest hotel, built in the '50s 26 00:02:09,600 --> 00:02:13,080 at the behest of the infamous Josef Stalin. 27 00:02:13,240 --> 00:02:15,720 I remember it as a cockroach-ridden monstrosity 28 00:02:15,880 --> 00:02:18,960 that said pretty much everything about Communist rule. 29 00:02:20,760 --> 00:02:24,640 But today, it looks as though those Soviet bugs are long gone. 30 00:02:24,800 --> 00:02:30,440 Wow, what a change! What an extraordinary place. 31 00:02:33,280 --> 00:02:35,920 All that's left of the hotel's Communist past 32 00:02:36,080 --> 00:02:39,880 are a couple of statues, and the magnificent mural in the main hall, 33 00:02:40,040 --> 00:02:43,440 a celebration of the simple life of the Soviet proletariat. 34 00:02:48,120 --> 00:02:51,440 The rest of the hotel is an Aladdin's cave filled with 35 00:02:51,600 --> 00:02:53,720 a Russian oligarch's favourite things. 36 00:02:55,040 --> 00:02:56,160 When I was a young diplomat, 37 00:02:56,320 --> 00:02:58,400 I used to live just down the road from here. 38 00:02:58,560 --> 00:03:01,360 And every day when I went to work, I'd pass this building, 39 00:03:01,520 --> 00:03:06,440 a Josef Stalin skyscraper, an icon of Soviet Communist power. 40 00:03:06,600 --> 00:03:12,000 Today, well, it's part of a luxury Western hotel chain. 41 00:03:12,120 --> 00:03:14,000 What would the old dictator think? 42 00:03:17,240 --> 00:03:21,080 Like the Ukraina, Moscow seems to be a city transformed. 43 00:03:22,600 --> 00:03:25,600 The streets are filled with trendy young people 44 00:03:25,760 --> 00:03:29,080 and some of the most beautiful women I have ever seen. 45 00:03:29,240 --> 00:03:31,880 And what better way to begin my stay here 46 00:03:32,000 --> 00:03:33,720 than meeting a beautiful woman. 47 00:03:33,880 --> 00:03:38,520 Masha, hello! Hello, nice to meet you. 48 00:03:38,680 --> 00:03:43,040 Masha Tsigal is one of the city's most celebrated fashion designers. 49 00:03:43,200 --> 00:03:46,240 Her clothes are a big hit among Moscow's new high society, 50 00:03:46,400 --> 00:03:50,200 with more billionaires than any other city in the world. 51 00:03:50,360 --> 00:03:52,080 You can wear that in the evening, or... 52 00:03:52,240 --> 00:03:53,960 Yeah, you can wear that in the evening 53 00:03:54,080 --> 00:03:55,880 or going to a dinner party. 54 00:03:56,040 --> 00:03:58,080 Russian girls are very much into dressing up, 55 00:03:58,240 --> 00:04:00,840 if you probably noticed this. I've noticed this. 56 00:04:01,000 --> 00:04:03,840 When I was here before, in the old days of the old Soviet Union, 57 00:04:04,000 --> 00:04:06,200 there weren't ladies like that at all. 58 00:04:06,320 --> 00:04:08,320 They were hidden somewhere. 59 00:04:08,480 --> 00:04:10,880 Probably they are making them somewhere, 60 00:04:11,040 --> 00:04:12,720 and they are using them as their weapon. 61 00:04:12,880 --> 00:04:15,760 A secret weapon Russian weapon. Secret weapon. 62 00:04:15,920 --> 00:04:19,000 I would like to be conquered by that secret weapon. Yeah! 63 00:04:19,160 --> 00:04:23,280 Back in the USSR, the only smart, educated women I met 64 00:04:23,440 --> 00:04:28,120 were KGB agents, who were under strict orders to seduce me. 65 00:04:28,240 --> 00:04:32,480 But tell me how Moscow has changed? 66 00:04:32,600 --> 00:04:34,640 Oh, it's like two different worlds. 67 00:04:34,800 --> 00:04:37,920 You can party 24 hours, you have the best restaurants. 68 00:04:38,040 --> 00:04:40,120 It became kind of really fashionable 69 00:04:40,320 --> 00:04:42,600 to be a fashion designer, if I can say this. 70 00:04:42,760 --> 00:04:46,040 So you were fashionable just by being a fashion designer? Yeah. 71 00:04:46,200 --> 00:04:47,840 Were you a celebrity? Are you a celebrity? 72 00:04:48,000 --> 00:04:50,600 I'm a celebrity. Yes. You are a celebrity? Yes. 73 00:04:50,760 --> 00:04:52,680 So that's very good. I just like your honesty, 74 00:04:52,840 --> 00:04:55,400 because most people say "Oh, no, I'm not a celebrity. No, no..." 75 00:04:55,560 --> 00:04:58,320 Yeah, but I'm not British to say this. That is absolutely right. 76 00:04:58,480 --> 00:05:00,920 I'm a Russian girl, that's why I'm pretty straightforward. 77 00:05:01,040 --> 00:05:03,120 Sounds good. OK. 78 00:05:08,000 --> 00:05:10,320 Charmed by Masha, I set off on my quest 79 00:05:10,480 --> 00:05:13,720 to find Moscow's networks of power. 80 00:05:13,840 --> 00:05:16,640 First stop - Red Square. 81 00:05:16,800 --> 00:05:19,800 The most famous symbol of power in all of Russia. 82 00:05:19,960 --> 00:05:23,720 In Communist times, Red Square hosted huge parades of missiles 83 00:05:23,880 --> 00:05:28,320 and tanks, but I could detect a few changes. 84 00:05:28,480 --> 00:05:31,640 Nowhere is the clash between ancient and modern in Moscow 85 00:05:31,800 --> 00:05:36,560 more vividly drawn than here in the iconic Red Square. 86 00:05:36,720 --> 00:05:39,960 Over there the walls of the ancient Kremlin fortress. 87 00:05:40,120 --> 00:05:42,280 Down there, the Lenin Mausoleum where, 88 00:05:42,440 --> 00:05:46,240 if it takes your fancy, you can go and pay your respects 89 00:05:46,400 --> 00:05:50,000 to the embalmed remains of the founder of the Communist revolution. 90 00:05:50,120 --> 00:05:53,360 And over here, 91 00:05:53,480 --> 00:05:56,680 Lord help us, an ice rink. 92 00:06:01,040 --> 00:06:04,640 The rink, in all its end-of-the-pier tackiness, would have given 93 00:06:04,800 --> 00:06:08,240 the old Politburo a fit of the vapours, but it has brought 94 00:06:08,400 --> 00:06:12,080 something Red Square always lacked - fun. 95 00:06:13,560 --> 00:06:16,840 It's the brainchild of the man who runs GUM, which stands for - 96 00:06:16,960 --> 00:06:19,680 Main Universal Shop. 97 00:06:19,840 --> 00:06:22,520 Millionaire businessman Mikhail Kusnirovich. 98 00:06:29,880 --> 00:06:32,360 Kusnirovich is Moscow's king of retail, 99 00:06:32,480 --> 00:06:34,760 controlling the Russian franchises 100 00:06:34,920 --> 00:06:37,160 of some of the West's biggest brands. 101 00:06:37,280 --> 00:06:40,760 This is unbelievably different. 102 00:06:40,920 --> 00:06:43,800 'He wanted to treat me to one of GUM's specialities.' 103 00:06:46,480 --> 00:06:47,880 It's very good. 104 00:06:48,000 --> 00:06:48,920 It's original. 105 00:06:52,880 --> 00:06:54,000 As a child? 106 00:06:54,160 --> 00:06:56,840 Yeah, as a child. Just to the buy ice cream. 107 00:06:57,000 --> 00:07:01,920 When Kusnirovich started out, his biggest customers were a handful 108 00:07:02,080 --> 00:07:06,240 of wealthy Russians who'd got rich after the collapse of Communism. 109 00:07:06,400 --> 00:07:09,040 Vast chunks of the country's state industries were sold off, 110 00:07:09,160 --> 00:07:11,640 frequently in murky deals. 111 00:07:11,800 --> 00:07:15,560 This put most of Russia's wealth in the hands of a select few - 112 00:07:15,680 --> 00:07:17,720 the so-called oligarchs. 113 00:07:20,000 --> 00:07:23,240 In '91, we had the crash of our country, 114 00:07:23,400 --> 00:07:26,280 not any more Soviet Union, totally different. 115 00:07:26,440 --> 00:07:31,080 Our entrepreneurial idea was to give something that 116 00:07:31,200 --> 00:07:33,760 we missed during the Soviet times. 117 00:07:33,920 --> 00:07:38,960 First of all, I feel that we are miss free choice. 118 00:07:39,120 --> 00:07:42,920 You take your vanilla, I take chocolate. You, know, it is freedom. 119 00:07:45,160 --> 00:07:48,680 Kusnirovich made the most of Moscow's new freedom to shop, 120 00:07:48,800 --> 00:07:51,600 setting up his own clothing label. 121 00:07:51,760 --> 00:07:54,720 Bosco now sponsors Russia's Olympic team. 122 00:07:56,080 --> 00:08:00,080 Do you sometimes wake up in the night and think, 123 00:08:00,240 --> 00:08:03,360 "My goodness me, what have I done?" 124 00:08:03,520 --> 00:08:10,400 Sometimes it has happened at night. When I'm close, in my office. 125 00:08:10,520 --> 00:08:14,360 Go up, I'm alone, all this building. 126 00:08:18,040 --> 00:08:20,640 Not bad. Not bad, exactly! 127 00:08:20,760 --> 00:08:21,920 Not bad. 128 00:08:28,080 --> 00:08:31,680 Like the mega-rich the world over, many oligarchs have retreated 129 00:08:31,840 --> 00:08:36,200 to gated communities, far from the prying eyes of ordinary Muscovites. 130 00:08:39,560 --> 00:08:41,600 One of these communities is Rublevka, 131 00:08:41,760 --> 00:08:45,160 a 40-minute drive from Red Square on the outskirts of the city. 132 00:08:50,320 --> 00:08:52,800 The local shopping mall is yet another temple 133 00:08:52,920 --> 00:08:55,400 to designer labels and fast cars. 134 00:08:57,120 --> 00:08:59,520 Back when I lived here, it was a one-horse town, 135 00:08:59,680 --> 00:09:01,800 with a village store and a petrol pump. 136 00:09:04,520 --> 00:09:07,800 Outside a local restaurant, I met up with Dmitry Afanasiev, 137 00:09:07,960 --> 00:09:10,240 who runs one of Russia's leading law firms, 138 00:09:10,400 --> 00:09:13,640 and has represented a number of Moscow's oligarchs. 139 00:09:13,800 --> 00:09:16,920 He's the very model of modern Russian man, 140 00:09:17,080 --> 00:09:20,080 has offices around the world, and studied in the US. 141 00:09:22,280 --> 00:09:24,400 Dimitri returned home in 1999, 142 00:09:24,560 --> 00:09:28,440 to what people referred to as the "Wild East". 143 00:09:28,560 --> 00:09:32,040 Within about 12 to 24 months, 144 00:09:32,200 --> 00:09:38,120 I had two of my friends killed in contract killings, 145 00:09:38,240 --> 00:09:39,840 and I said, 146 00:09:40,000 --> 00:09:42,480 "this is going to be quite an interesting challenge," 147 00:09:42,640 --> 00:09:46,720 to do what I like to do, which is uphold justice, 148 00:09:46,880 --> 00:09:51,240 and at the same time be successful commercially and make a difference. 149 00:09:51,400 --> 00:09:54,840 Moscow can be a dangerous place to do business, 150 00:09:55,000 --> 00:09:57,760 and a decade ago, few left home without their bodyguards. 151 00:09:59,880 --> 00:10:03,680 At that time, there were two types of law firms in Russia. 152 00:10:03,840 --> 00:10:06,920 The first type was basically a bunch of solo practitioners 153 00:10:07,080 --> 00:10:09,240 who called themselves Russian lawyers. 154 00:10:09,400 --> 00:10:13,320 They would state, "Give me 100,000. I'll give it to the judge." 155 00:10:13,480 --> 00:10:15,720 And most of the time keep it to themselves. 156 00:10:15,880 --> 00:10:18,840 When the Russian clients found out, occasionally they shot them. 157 00:10:18,960 --> 00:10:20,800 Malpractice insurance Russian style. 158 00:10:20,960 --> 00:10:24,240 So we said, "Hey, there's a great business opportunity." 159 00:10:24,400 --> 00:10:28,120 For starters if you don't steal money from clients, you're a market leader. 160 00:10:28,280 --> 00:10:31,160 Second, if you actually know how Russia works, 161 00:10:31,320 --> 00:10:33,480 you can describe it in decent English, 162 00:10:33,640 --> 00:10:35,360 you're way ahead of the competition. 163 00:10:39,640 --> 00:10:42,440 Moscow is a magnet for those who want to get rich. 164 00:10:42,600 --> 00:10:46,040 Thousands flock here from the former Soviet republics 165 00:10:46,240 --> 00:10:49,880 in the belief that the city's dangerous streets are paved with gold. 166 00:10:51,000 --> 00:10:53,400 To succeed here, like Afanasiev, 167 00:10:53,560 --> 00:10:56,800 you need a grasp of networking, Moscow style. 168 00:10:58,000 --> 00:11:01,320 During the Soviet times, people distrusted the Government, 169 00:11:01,480 --> 00:11:05,800 so the only network of support they had was their friends, 170 00:11:06,000 --> 00:11:11,240 and it was the kind of friends that sometimes were willing to go to jail for a friend if they had to, 171 00:11:11,400 --> 00:11:14,600 friendship to the extreme, that's the Russian way of friendship. 172 00:11:14,760 --> 00:11:18,120 And then what happened is everything tumbled and turned upside down. 173 00:11:18,280 --> 00:11:21,480 Communism became capitalism, so in that big of a mess 174 00:11:21,640 --> 00:11:24,440 how do you distinguish who you can rely on and who not? 175 00:11:24,600 --> 00:11:28,160 And the only thing that carried through all these changes 176 00:11:28,320 --> 00:11:30,760 is that old network of personal friends. 177 00:11:31,880 --> 00:11:33,880 Afanasiev's network of friends 178 00:11:34,040 --> 00:11:36,480 quickly became a network of influence, 179 00:11:36,640 --> 00:11:40,640 extending beyond the oligarchs to the very heart of power. 180 00:11:41,680 --> 00:11:45,520 The best way to build a success in Russia is to help Russia. 181 00:11:45,680 --> 00:11:50,480 For instance, our law firm has represented Russia as a country 182 00:11:50,640 --> 00:11:53,160 in some of the most important cases internationally. 183 00:11:53,320 --> 00:11:57,240 We feel this is the way we give back to Russia 184 00:11:57,360 --> 00:11:59,720 for the success that Russia gave us. 185 00:11:59,920 --> 00:12:06,360 So if there's one person I ought to know here in Moscow, who should it be? 186 00:12:06,480 --> 00:12:08,240 The President. 187 00:12:08,360 --> 00:12:10,600 And a good driver. 188 00:12:12,400 --> 00:12:14,720 And how do I get to see the President? 189 00:12:14,880 --> 00:12:17,800 What's the key to unlocking his door? 190 00:12:19,360 --> 00:12:22,760 Think what you can do for Russia and not what Russia can do for you 191 00:12:22,880 --> 00:12:24,920 and you'll get to see the President. 192 00:12:25,080 --> 00:12:27,440 And to get a good driver what do I need to do? 193 00:12:27,560 --> 00:12:30,360 That's a more difficult question! 194 00:12:33,920 --> 00:12:37,760 Today, Moscow's most powerful man is not an oligarch 195 00:12:37,920 --> 00:12:41,640 but the country's President, Vladimir Vladimirovich Putin. 196 00:12:41,800 --> 00:12:45,040 I knew that, with the best will in the world, 197 00:12:45,200 --> 00:12:47,280 there wasn't much I could do for Russia, 198 00:12:47,440 --> 00:12:50,360 so the likelihood of a meeting was pretty remote. 199 00:12:50,480 --> 00:13:01,700 But how close could I get? 200 00:13:01,700 --> 00:13:06,140 On the surface, Moscow has come a long way since I was last here. 201 00:13:06,300 --> 00:13:09,420 There are nice hotels, comfy beds and no bugs. 202 00:13:09,580 --> 00:13:14,260 But power, on the other hand, seems much as I remembered it. 203 00:13:14,420 --> 00:13:18,740 For hundreds of years, the focus of power has been the Kremlin, 204 00:13:18,860 --> 00:13:22,140 occupied today by President Putin. 205 00:13:22,300 --> 00:13:26,020 He hails from the organisation that, during the Cold War, 206 00:13:26,140 --> 00:13:28,980 was our biggest enemy. The KGB. 207 00:13:30,140 --> 00:13:33,220 When Putin first became President in the year 2000, 208 00:13:33,380 --> 00:13:35,660 power was in the hands of the oligarchs. 209 00:13:36,740 --> 00:13:39,220 He soon changed all that, 210 00:13:39,340 --> 00:13:41,420 returning it to the Russian state, 211 00:13:41,580 --> 00:13:44,020 but there was also another group that benefited. 212 00:13:46,860 --> 00:13:50,980 Ordinary Muscovites refer to them as Siloviki, 213 00:13:51,100 --> 00:13:53,900 literally "people of force", 214 00:13:54,100 --> 00:13:57,860 meaning former agents of the KGB, the security services and the military. 215 00:13:59,100 --> 00:14:01,820 Some of them are friends of President Putin, 216 00:14:02,020 --> 00:14:06,780 who, like so many Russians, seems to value personal loyalty above all else. 217 00:14:07,820 --> 00:14:12,380 Touch of the cloak and daggers here. I'm sitting in the back of a car under a railway bridge, 218 00:14:12,540 --> 00:14:16,140 waiting for a former KGB and Special Forces officer. 219 00:14:16,300 --> 00:14:18,780 I hope that he's going to tell me everything 220 00:14:18,940 --> 00:14:22,180 about the role of the security services in Putin's Moscow. 221 00:14:24,140 --> 00:14:29,100 For much of the 1980s, Anatoly Yermolin was a KGB officer, 222 00:14:29,260 --> 00:14:32,980 part of an elite unit which operated in countries like Afghanistan. 223 00:14:49,180 --> 00:14:54,660 In the privacy of my car, Anatoly briefed me on his 2011 investigation 224 00:14:54,820 --> 00:14:58,780 into the number of Siloviki who held positions of power. 225 00:15:43,780 --> 00:15:47,420 But you could argue, you could argue, Anatoly, 226 00:15:47,580 --> 00:15:51,540 that any new leader, when he comes to power, 227 00:15:51,700 --> 00:15:56,140 needs to have the comfort and security of people around him 228 00:15:56,260 --> 00:15:58,180 with whom he is familiar? 229 00:16:18,860 --> 00:16:24,580 If I were a big businessman, or if I wanted to start a business, 230 00:16:24,740 --> 00:16:29,100 then it would be impossible for me to do this 231 00:16:29,260 --> 00:16:33,060 without having a good relationship with these forces. 232 00:16:33,220 --> 00:16:36,540 I would have to have some kind of understanding. 233 00:16:38,380 --> 00:16:43,100 One of those who is believed to have fallen foul of Putin's network 234 00:16:43,260 --> 00:16:45,700 is the businessman Mikhail Khodorkovsky, 235 00:16:45,860 --> 00:16:48,740 who Yermolin worked for after leaving the KGB. 236 00:16:50,140 --> 00:16:52,180 Once Russia's richest man, 237 00:16:52,340 --> 00:16:56,820 Khodorkovsky was convicted of fraud in 2005 and remains in prison 238 00:16:56,980 --> 00:17:00,420 after a trial many claim was politically motivated. 239 00:17:27,060 --> 00:17:30,500 For the hard men in the Kremlin, showing their strength 240 00:17:30,660 --> 00:17:32,660 has been an important instrument of power. 241 00:17:32,820 --> 00:17:35,300 And while many may have smirked at pictures of Putin 242 00:17:35,460 --> 00:17:38,300 throwing himself around on a judo mat, 243 00:17:38,460 --> 00:17:42,780 it's part of a calculated ploy to boost his image as a strong leader. 244 00:17:42,980 --> 00:17:49,020 Behind these walls sits the most powerful man in Moscow - President Putin. 245 00:17:49,180 --> 00:17:51,780 This is as close as I'm likely to get to a leader 246 00:17:51,980 --> 00:17:58,100 whose authority has always rested on a traditional Russian respect for strength. 247 00:17:58,260 --> 00:18:02,340 That authority has come under challenge for the very first time. 248 00:18:08,460 --> 00:18:13,420 My visit to Moscow coincided with the aftermath of Russia's presidential elections, 249 00:18:13,580 --> 00:18:17,500 which Putin had won amidst allegations of vote-rigging. 250 00:18:20,300 --> 00:18:23,820 At first glance, this protest rally looked to be an example 251 00:18:23,980 --> 00:18:28,220 of the new and more democratic Russia, and to a degree it was. 252 00:18:28,420 --> 00:18:33,580 But as we drove through the streets, I felt I was back in the good old USSR. 253 00:18:33,740 --> 00:18:36,660 The last time I saw so many police on the streets of Moscow 254 00:18:36,780 --> 00:18:39,380 was when Brezhnev died in the 1980s. 255 00:18:39,580 --> 00:18:43,540 Of course, in those days, an anti-government protest would have been unthinkable. 256 00:18:46,140 --> 00:18:51,300 Political opposition in Moscow was once the preserve of dissidents and the intelligentsia. 257 00:18:51,460 --> 00:18:54,940 But today, many protestors belong to a burgeoning middle class 258 00:18:55,100 --> 00:18:57,940 who have prospered thanks to Russia's growing economy. 259 00:18:58,060 --> 00:19:01,100 They have tablets and smartphones, 260 00:19:01,300 --> 00:19:04,700 and are part of an online community which is already the biggest in Europe. 261 00:19:06,460 --> 00:19:11,140 I had an appointment with a woman who is the embodiment of this new social phenomenon. 262 00:19:12,380 --> 00:19:18,460 Xenia Sokolova is the deputy editor of a magazine which is rather curiously called Snob. 263 00:19:25,140 --> 00:19:29,380 Outside Xenia's flat, security service officers were on stand-by 264 00:19:29,540 --> 00:19:31,980 in response to the protest around the corner. 265 00:19:41,180 --> 00:19:45,140 Many of Xenia's readers are part of the wealthy urban class 266 00:19:45,260 --> 00:19:47,300 who have taken to the streets. 267 00:20:14,780 --> 00:20:18,180 'Although Xenia is a critic of the Government, 268 00:20:18,380 --> 00:20:22,260 'I hoped she might suggest someone close to the Kremlin who would speak to me.' 269 00:20:22,420 --> 00:20:28,220 If I wanted to talk to people in this magic circle around Putin 270 00:20:28,380 --> 00:20:31,660 could I go and talk to Putin? Could I go and...? 271 00:20:41,100 --> 00:20:43,140 They are as closed as the Politburo was? 272 00:20:59,260 --> 00:21:00,940 It was as I'd expected. 273 00:21:01,100 --> 00:21:05,140 A Kremlin insider seemed frustratingly out of reach. 274 00:21:06,580 --> 00:21:10,060 But then Xenia pointed a way through. 275 00:21:28,700 --> 00:21:33,460 I need a mentor, a navigator to lead me through the... 276 00:21:33,620 --> 00:21:37,820 OK, I can be your navigator. Can you be my navigator? Of course. 277 00:21:40,780 --> 00:21:44,460 By the time I left Xenia's flat, she had not only given me 278 00:21:44,620 --> 00:21:47,740 an introduction to a Government official 279 00:21:47,900 --> 00:21:50,500 she'd also arranged a meeting with a young woman, 280 00:21:50,660 --> 00:22:02,320 beautiful of course, who was once a family friend of Vladimir Putin. 281 00:22:02,320 --> 00:22:04,920 Thanks to my new friend Xenia Sokolova, 282 00:22:05,080 --> 00:22:09,480 I've been invited to attend a political talk show called Gosdep. 283 00:22:11,800 --> 00:22:14,560 With guests from across the political spectrum, 284 00:22:14,720 --> 00:22:17,720 the programme was originally aired on Russian MTV, 285 00:22:17,840 --> 00:22:20,640 but was axed after just one episode. 286 00:22:21,760 --> 00:22:23,640 The presenter, Xenia Sobchak, 287 00:22:23,800 --> 00:22:27,520 was recently voted one of the most influential women in Russia. 288 00:22:27,680 --> 00:22:30,600 Her father, when Mayor of St Petersburg, 289 00:22:30,760 --> 00:22:33,560 helped launch Vladimir Putin's political career 290 00:22:33,720 --> 00:22:36,760 and until recently she was a family friend. 291 00:22:36,880 --> 00:22:39,560 (THEY DISPUTE IN RUSSIAN) 292 00:22:41,440 --> 00:22:43,520 (APPLAUSE) 293 00:22:46,400 --> 00:22:49,200 The programme's over, she's doing a few pieces to camera. 294 00:22:49,360 --> 00:22:51,600 She's told us we have only ten minutes. 295 00:22:51,760 --> 00:22:55,080 So we'd better get in there and grab her before she goes away. 296 00:22:55,200 --> 00:22:57,120 (THEY TALK IN RUSSIAN) 297 00:22:57,320 --> 00:23:02,000 'My interview took place while the director was teaching the audience how to clap.' 298 00:23:03,760 --> 00:23:08,920 Tell me, has this fantastic discussion, which you controlled brilliantly... Thank you. 299 00:23:09,040 --> 00:23:11,680 Has it taken place in a democracy 300 00:23:11,840 --> 00:23:15,720 or in an autocracy or something in between? 301 00:23:15,880 --> 00:23:20,440 Well, now unfortunately, it has taken place in internet, 302 00:23:20,560 --> 00:23:22,840 and due to this, I think, of course, 303 00:23:23,000 --> 00:23:26,600 we're speaking about lack of free press in Russia. 304 00:23:26,800 --> 00:23:31,520 Because these kind of discussions unfortunately you can't see on Russian TV, 305 00:23:31,680 --> 00:23:34,160 and for me as a journalist, it's a huge problem. 306 00:23:35,640 --> 00:23:38,720 This programme used to be on MTV. 307 00:23:38,880 --> 00:23:45,120 But since the first issue of this programme has come out on air, 308 00:23:45,240 --> 00:23:46,960 the programme was banned. 309 00:23:47,080 --> 00:23:49,600 I can't work on federal TV, 310 00:23:49,760 --> 00:23:53,400 and the kind of problems, political problems they do there is... 311 00:23:53,520 --> 00:23:55,000 You don't want to watch that. 312 00:23:55,160 --> 00:23:57,760 Because the powers are controlling those other sources? 313 00:23:57,960 --> 00:24:01,320 Because they don't want people to know different kind of views, you know? 314 00:24:01,480 --> 00:24:04,280 Like for me, for example, I invite from both sides. 315 00:24:04,440 --> 00:24:06,400 You had all kinds of people there tonight. Yeah. 316 00:24:06,520 --> 00:24:08,360 They don't agree among themselves. 317 00:24:08,520 --> 00:24:10,840 I had people which are totally pro-Kremlin, 318 00:24:11,000 --> 00:24:14,560 and I'm also giving them the right to speak and to discuss. 319 00:24:14,720 --> 00:24:18,160 But when you, like, withdraw one of the positions, 320 00:24:18,320 --> 00:24:22,080 then you realise you live in a kind of absolute world. 321 00:24:22,280 --> 00:24:25,920 This is where I don't want to live. I want my country to know what's happening. 322 00:24:26,120 --> 00:24:32,040 Xenia is none too pleased that Vladimir Putin will be Russia's President for yet another term. 323 00:24:32,200 --> 00:24:36,240 I've counted that in six years I will be only 36 324 00:24:36,400 --> 00:24:39,920 and then, of course, I can do something. 325 00:24:40,080 --> 00:24:43,400 Because more than six years it cannot last. 326 00:24:43,600 --> 00:24:47,240 Before the six-year period is finished, it will change fundamentally? 327 00:24:47,400 --> 00:24:50,920 Well, it can't be 12 years. Come on. It can't be 12 years? 328 00:24:51,080 --> 00:24:54,440 Otherwise I will learn English better and go to the States. 329 00:24:54,600 --> 00:24:57,280 You know, 40 something? No, I'm not ready. 330 00:24:57,440 --> 00:25:02,080 So you would say that power is shifting, moving? 331 00:25:02,280 --> 00:25:06,800 Moving towards you and people like you and away from the traditional source? 332 00:25:06,960 --> 00:25:10,160 Well, I don't think that the power is moving towards me. 333 00:25:10,320 --> 00:25:12,760 You're one of the most influential women in Russia. 334 00:25:12,920 --> 00:25:16,320 I don't know, maybe this is your opinion... 335 00:25:16,480 --> 00:25:20,040 'My suggestion that Xenia has power seemed to make her nervous, 336 00:25:20,200 --> 00:25:22,920 'a sign perhaps of Moscow's current tensions.' 337 00:25:23,040 --> 00:25:24,800 Well, I'm a bit shy, 338 00:25:25,000 --> 00:25:29,760 because I'm afraid that some kind of provocation will happen right now. 339 00:25:29,920 --> 00:25:33,760 You will hand up some dollars out of your pocket. Me? 340 00:25:33,920 --> 00:25:36,720 And then MTV comes out and the federal channels. 341 00:25:36,880 --> 00:25:40,520 "Look, she's also being paid by American citizens!" 342 00:25:40,640 --> 00:25:42,280 This is what they usually do. 343 00:25:42,480 --> 00:25:47,680 Actually, even speaking English in Russia now is a bit kind of, you know, scary thing. 344 00:25:47,840 --> 00:25:50,240 So talking to an Englishman is dangerous these days? 345 00:25:50,400 --> 00:25:52,800 Kind of, you know, because the propaganda says 346 00:25:52,960 --> 00:25:56,400 that all the people who don't agree with the powers, 347 00:25:56,560 --> 00:26:00,840 they are paid by Americans. So please give me my $100! 348 00:26:00,960 --> 00:26:03,280 I mean, why do I work for free?! 349 00:26:06,320 --> 00:26:10,240 Most of Russia's newspapers, television, and radio 350 00:26:10,400 --> 00:26:13,320 rarely dare express any criticism of the Kremlin. 351 00:26:14,920 --> 00:26:17,400 But there are a few exceptions. 352 00:26:19,680 --> 00:26:23,360 Echo Of Moscow is the city's most popular radio station, 353 00:26:23,520 --> 00:26:25,840 with around a million listeners a day. 354 00:26:26,000 --> 00:26:30,040 I arrived as editor-in-chief Alexei Venediktov 355 00:26:30,200 --> 00:26:32,640 was discussing the week's events on air. 356 00:26:32,800 --> 00:26:36,720 While I waited, I decided to admire the photos 357 00:26:36,880 --> 00:26:39,400 of the great and the good who have appeared on Echo. 358 00:26:39,560 --> 00:26:44,080 Richard Gere, bringing enlightenment to the Russian masses. 359 00:26:44,200 --> 00:26:45,240 Ah! 360 00:26:46,680 --> 00:26:49,400 The blessed Tony Blair. 361 00:26:50,680 --> 00:26:54,640 (THEY GREET EACH OTHER IN RUSSIAN) 362 00:26:54,800 --> 00:26:58,400 Venediktov himself has quizzed many of the world's great leaders, 363 00:26:58,520 --> 00:27:00,920 from the Clintons to Putin. 364 00:27:01,040 --> 00:27:02,360 Putin. 365 00:27:02,480 --> 00:27:04,600 Young? Young. 366 00:27:11,840 --> 00:27:13,560 Before he was President? 367 00:27:14,760 --> 00:27:19,720 Over the years, and many meetings, Venediktov has got to know the way Putin works. 368 00:27:19,840 --> 00:27:22,720 What kind of a man is he? 369 00:28:23,080 --> 00:28:25,240 (HE LAUGHS) 370 00:28:25,360 --> 00:28:26,880 Why have you survived? 371 00:28:28,520 --> 00:28:30,280 But you must have an idea. 372 00:28:50,240 --> 00:28:51,680 For them? For them. 373 00:29:17,200 --> 00:29:22,320 After years relying on his chums and the Siloviki from his KGB past, 374 00:29:22,480 --> 00:29:26,640 Venediktov thinks Putin's network of power is changing. 375 00:29:42,960 --> 00:29:47,320 The irony is that of all the people I've met in Moscow this week, 376 00:29:47,480 --> 00:29:51,720 the one who seems to know personally Putin the best 377 00:29:51,880 --> 00:29:54,200 is the editor of this radio station who, 378 00:29:54,320 --> 00:29:56,680 uniquely among Moscow broadcasters, 379 00:29:56,840 --> 00:30:01,040 is allowed repeatedly to get under Putin's skin. 380 00:30:01,160 --> 00:30:03,720 (RUSSIAN NATIONAL ANTHEM) 381 00:30:05,160 --> 00:30:10,680 Gorky Park lies a few miles south of President Putin's office in the Kremlin. 382 00:30:10,880 --> 00:30:16,760 It's named after the literary mouthpiece of the Russian Revolution, Maxim Gorky. 383 00:30:17,880 --> 00:30:19,800 Thanks to Xenia Sokolova, 384 00:30:19,960 --> 00:30:24,720 I was going to meet one of this new breed of appointees I'd heard about. 385 00:30:24,920 --> 00:30:29,000 Back in the old days I used to bring the children here to play on the swings. 386 00:30:29,160 --> 00:30:31,240 I've got to say, on a day like today, 387 00:30:31,400 --> 00:30:33,960 it was the most depressing experience on God's earth. 388 00:30:34,120 --> 00:30:38,200 Now Sergei Kapkov has apparently jazzed the whole place up. 389 00:30:38,320 --> 00:30:41,320 First signs, not terribly promising, 390 00:30:41,480 --> 00:30:44,480 but let's keep an open mind. We'll see. 391 00:30:46,000 --> 00:30:48,880 To make Gorky Park less depressing, 392 00:30:49,040 --> 00:30:52,520 Sergei Kapkov has introduced brightly coloured buildings, 393 00:30:52,680 --> 00:30:57,760 even ice sculptures, all aimed at making the place more welcoming. 394 00:30:57,920 --> 00:31:00,960 A tough job when the weather's this bad. 395 00:31:01,080 --> 00:31:02,720 (THEY GREET EACH OTHER) 396 00:31:02,880 --> 00:31:06,120 Having people like Kapkov on board is good for President Putin, 397 00:31:06,240 --> 00:31:08,800 as he has no history with the KGB. 398 00:31:49,520 --> 00:31:54,000 Kapkov used to be Chelsea owner Roman Abramovich's right hand man, 399 00:31:54,160 --> 00:31:57,680 and Abramovich provided much of the cash for Gorky Park. 400 00:32:22,240 --> 00:32:26,240 The oligarch's billions will no doubt make Moscow look better. 401 00:32:26,440 --> 00:32:32,160 But Kapkov is also trying to bring about a cultural change that is more than cosmetic. 402 00:32:59,920 --> 00:33:03,840 As I took a ride on Moscow's magnificent metro, 403 00:33:04,040 --> 00:33:09,080 it occurred to me that throughout Russian history there's been a struggle between two groups. 404 00:33:09,240 --> 00:33:12,560 The old guard, grey and set in its ways, 405 00:33:12,720 --> 00:33:16,120 and the modernisers, dynamic and demanding change. 406 00:33:16,280 --> 00:33:19,320 But what's different about Putin's Moscow 407 00:33:19,480 --> 00:33:24,720 is that it's not always clear which is which and who's who. 408 00:33:36,580 --> 00:33:40,980 Moscow is a city that desperately wants to stand on an equal footing 409 00:33:41,100 --> 00:33:43,620 with the great western capitals. 410 00:33:44,780 --> 00:33:48,500 The last 12 years have seen the emergence of a middle-class opposition. 411 00:33:48,700 --> 00:33:54,060 But not all well-to-do Muscovites think that Vladimir Putin stands in the way of progress. 412 00:33:55,420 --> 00:33:59,580 Tina Kandelaki is a well-known journalist and TV presenter, 413 00:33:59,740 --> 00:34:02,900 and one of Russia's most popular celebrities. 414 00:34:04,660 --> 00:34:07,180 Good evening. You must be Tina. 415 00:34:07,340 --> 00:34:11,060 'Tina owns a fashionable restaurant in the centre of town. 416 00:34:11,220 --> 00:34:13,220 'It serves food from her native Georgia.' 417 00:34:19,100 --> 00:34:21,660 In Twitter I think that I'm fourth, or something. 418 00:34:21,820 --> 00:34:24,940 I mean the first five persons in the Russia, in the Twitter. 419 00:34:25,100 --> 00:34:28,220 Tina is one of many who prospered during the economic boom 420 00:34:28,380 --> 00:34:30,500 that accompanied Putin's first presidency. 421 00:34:30,660 --> 00:34:34,020 But when she first arrived in Moscow in the 1990s, 422 00:34:34,140 --> 00:34:35,940 Tina had next to nothing. 423 00:35:05,060 --> 00:35:07,300 That's terrifying. 424 00:35:07,500 --> 00:35:12,700 So in a very short period of time you have won for yourself enormous success. 425 00:35:26,660 --> 00:35:29,820 Tina believes that Putin is the only leader 426 00:35:29,980 --> 00:35:32,660 who can ensure Moscow's future prosperity. 427 00:36:07,700 --> 00:36:11,420 In the end, my quest to meet Vladimir Putin came to nothing, 428 00:36:13,140 --> 00:36:15,140 But I think I caught a glimpse of him 429 00:36:15,300 --> 00:36:17,500 racing through the streets in a convoy 430 00:36:17,660 --> 00:36:20,060 which no doubt got him to work on time. 431 00:36:22,460 --> 00:36:23,940 Instead of the man himself, 432 00:36:24,100 --> 00:36:27,900 I did get an interview with one of the Kremlin's favoured strategists. 433 00:36:32,140 --> 00:36:33,860 This is the Plekhanov University, 434 00:36:34,020 --> 00:36:36,980 one of Russia's most prestigious academic institutions. 435 00:36:38,220 --> 00:36:41,500 As I walked through its gloomy corridors 436 00:36:41,660 --> 00:36:43,740 I got a whiff of the old Iron Curtain. 437 00:36:44,860 --> 00:36:48,420 Professor Markov's office had the same kind of scent. 438 00:36:48,540 --> 00:36:50,900 Good afternoon. 439 00:36:51,020 --> 00:36:53,540 I'm interrupting? 440 00:36:53,740 --> 00:37:00,420 Yes. We are preparing for the visiting of the minister of Egypt to our university. 441 00:37:00,580 --> 00:37:06,060 They come to you to get you to interpret the President's decision? 442 00:37:06,180 --> 00:37:08,780 That's part of my job. Yes. 443 00:37:08,980 --> 00:37:12,620 'Sergei Markov explained the evolution of Putin's network of power.' 444 00:37:32,860 --> 00:37:38,260 People say Putin surrounds himself with people, personal friends, 445 00:37:38,420 --> 00:37:43,580 whom he's known since kindergarten, since primary school, 446 00:37:43,700 --> 00:37:46,500 during his career in the KGB. 447 00:37:46,620 --> 00:37:50,020 Is that fair, unfair? It's true. 448 00:37:50,140 --> 00:37:51,620 It's true? It's true. 449 00:38:13,740 --> 00:38:17,700 Markov then went on to say something which I found astonishing 450 00:38:17,860 --> 00:38:20,740 given his close ties with Putin's regime. 451 00:38:48,740 --> 00:38:53,940 Markov thinks Putin will be able to handle the challenges posed by the new opposition. 452 00:39:04,980 --> 00:39:07,380 Is he capable of doing that? 453 00:39:14,140 --> 00:39:18,220 Are you optimistic about the future of Moscow? 454 00:39:52,260 --> 00:39:54,620 Judging from the people I've met, 455 00:39:54,780 --> 00:39:57,860 Putin's supporters and opponents seem to agree on one thing. 456 00:39:57,980 --> 00:40:00,900 He has to change the way he rules 457 00:40:01,100 --> 00:40:04,780 to satisfy the aspirations of the very class he has brought into being. 458 00:40:04,940 --> 00:40:08,780 Before leaving Moscow, I decided to drop by Snob magazine 459 00:40:08,940 --> 00:40:13,100 and thank Xenia Sokolova, the woman who had helped me so much 460 00:40:13,260 --> 00:40:16,100 in my exploration of Moscow's networks of power. 461 00:40:16,260 --> 00:40:20,940 Hi. How are you? Nice to see you. So this is the famous... 462 00:40:21,100 --> 00:40:24,180 'Just as I was getting optimistic about Moscow's future, 463 00:40:24,340 --> 00:40:27,420 'Xenia told me about a friend of hers who was found guilty 464 00:40:27,580 --> 00:40:30,940 'in a trial she believes was politically motivated. 465 00:40:31,100 --> 00:40:34,340 'She seemed quite shaken by what had happened.' 466 00:40:53,500 --> 00:40:54,860 Five years? 467 00:41:18,980 --> 00:41:24,900 So you think a period of repression is now beginning? Yes. 468 00:41:25,020 --> 00:41:27,140 A counter-reaction? Yes. 469 00:41:27,340 --> 00:41:33,620 I've seen people, some who are anti-Putin and some who are pro-Putin... 470 00:41:33,780 --> 00:41:38,100 Yes. But they all seem to say the same thing 471 00:41:38,260 --> 00:41:43,740 which is something has to change in the next six years. 472 00:42:32,180 --> 00:42:37,100 When communism collapsed, the world wondered what the new Russia would become. 473 00:42:37,260 --> 00:42:41,580 Over 20 years later and we still don't know the answer. 474 00:42:42,860 --> 00:42:46,260 The hopes and dreams which came with the collapse of communism 475 00:42:46,420 --> 00:42:50,580 have not yet been realised, but take a walk down the street 476 00:42:50,740 --> 00:42:53,420 and you can still feel the wind of change. 477 00:42:54,820 --> 00:42:58,660 For someone like me who's been away from Moscow for almost 30 years, 478 00:42:58,820 --> 00:43:00,980 the city presents an astonishing spectacle. 479 00:43:01,100 --> 00:43:04,380 Traffic jams, restaurants, bars, 480 00:43:04,540 --> 00:43:07,900 all in striking contrast to the drabness of Soviet communism 481 00:43:08,060 --> 00:43:11,820 and serving a new and prosperous urban class. 482 00:43:11,980 --> 00:43:15,300 But behind the glitter lies still an ancient Russia 483 00:43:15,460 --> 00:43:18,860 where power rests in the hands of a single leader 484 00:43:19,020 --> 00:43:21,820 and those most closely beholden to him. 485 00:43:21,940 --> 00:43:24,260 And it will be here in Moscow 486 00:43:24,420 --> 00:43:26,940 that the struggle between this network of power 487 00:43:27,100 --> 00:43:29,940 and the forces of modernity will be won or lost. 488 00:43:40,180 --> 00:43:43,420 Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd 489 00:43:43,540 --> 00:43:46,580 E-mail accessibility@bskyb.com