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I'm Richard Wilson

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and I am on a driving tour of the UK.

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This thing about the country lanes is

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00:00:09,520 --> 00:00:13,240
you never know what you are going to
see when you go around the corner!

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But, I am doing it without the aid
of modern technology.

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No satnav for me!

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Very twisty. Twisty, turny.

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I'm using the rather splendid
collection of Shell Guides

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first published in the 1930s,

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00:00:28,440 --> 00:00:31,440
to see how Britain has changed
over the decades.

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(HORN HONKS)

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The Shell Guide sent you
around the counties of Britain

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and mapped out where to go,
things to do...

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Oh!

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..and even what to eat!

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When they first appeared,

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going for a drive was
a pleasurable experience...

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(GASPS AND EXCLAIMS)

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..something that is harder
to accomplish today.

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(STAMMERS) I'm trying to reverse!

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(HORNS HONKING)

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Oh, shut up!

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But, I'm sure that
me and my Daimler...

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Which I have christened Deborah.

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..will get us where we need to go.

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Today, I'm in Derbyshire in
the East Midlands of England.

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A landlocked county which
celebrates the great outdoors

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attracting over 20 million
visitors every year.

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Following the 1935 guide,

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I will be taking in
the county's most famous view,

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plunging into the Georgian
spa town of Buxton,

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and stuffing myself with tart
in Bakewell.

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This 1935 guide to Derbyshire
stood out to me from all the others

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because it is very much
the personal opinion

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of the author Christopher Hobhouse.

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He claims that Derbyshire
is a paradise.

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Now, that's a pretty big statement!

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At the front here, he lists
all the aspects of the county

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that make up his idea of paradise.

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Castles, seats of the nobility,

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picturesque scenery,
towns, public buildings,

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churches, antiquities, etc.

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Now, that's a pretty long list so I'm
going to visit some of these places

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and see if they are
as special as he says.

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My exploration of Derbyshire
has to start

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with the county's jewel in its crown,
the Peak District.

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Straightaway, you can see
why the guide says

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the county is so beautiful.

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It covers over 1,000 square miles,
most of which is countryside.

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This is my kind of place!

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One of the pictures that stood out
for me in the guide was Monsal Head.

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We are going there now.
I can't wait to see it.

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Monsal Head with its view
over the Derbyshire dales,

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is the most famous beauty spot
of the Peak District.

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One of the reasons I wanted
to do this programme was,

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I-I love a good view.

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I love...vistas

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and I am intrigued by
what it is in a vista

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that gives us that uplifting feeling.

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And, this is one of the best
views in the county, Monsal Head.

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That's the Monsal viaduct down there.
It is an old railway viaduct.

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There are other bridges down there.

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There are paths leading out
and paths leading further down

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and it's just a spectacular
piece of scenery.

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A lot of people come here to walk.

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I'm not going to go down there
because erm...

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It's nearly lunchtime!

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I couldn't have picked a better day.
Look at it!

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You have to realise when Hobhouse
was writing the guide in 1935,

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much of this land
was privately owned.

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You weren't allowed on it.
The general public were locked out.

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What a travesty!

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So, I'm driving up to the scene
of an extraordinary event

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that took place in
the early thirties.

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My guide says,

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"A large portion of
the open country..."

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What they meant by sportsmen
was that this land

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was owned by a few landed gentry

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who used it for hunting and shooting
for a few weeks of the year.

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The public were denied access.

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So, a part of Hobhouse's paradise
was unobtainable to the majority.

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In 1932, three years before
the guide book was written,

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ordinary people were so angry about

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not having the right
to walk over this land,

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they organised a demonstration.

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The protest became known as
The Mass Trespass of Kinder Scout,

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named after the highest point in
the Peak District.

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To tell me more, I'm meeting
Park Ranger Martin Sharp

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who has worked in the Peak District
for over 20 years.

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So, Martin, tell me about
this mass protest they had.

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You have got to imagine
people in the cities,

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they'd look up at Kinder and places
like this and want to be out there,

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especially on a Sunday which was
the only day they had off.

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Manchester is just over there.
Just there. Sheffield's that way.

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So, they are looking at the
Peak District and wanting access.

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They couldn't get it,
they couldn't go where they wanted

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to some of these fantastic hills
behind us.

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And so, they kind of banded together

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and decided they were
going to come up en masse.

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So, who were these organising groups?

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The workers co-operative.
Co-operative.

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Just individuals that came together.

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The Ramblers weren't
involved at the time

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of the Ramblers Association.

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So, these people got together
and had a meeting.

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They had strategic meeting points.

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Then they had a rally in
a car park at Hayfield,

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then they marched up onto Kinder.

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There were public rights of way
leading up there.

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As soon as they stepped off
they met the gamekeepers.

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The gamekeepers had been forewarned.
The land owner had been warned.

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# No man has the right
To own mountains

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# Any more than the deep ocean bed #

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It was partly that confrontation

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and then partly the people
getting arrested

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for X number of months
for doing this

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that really bought
the problem to a fore.

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I love a bit of civil disobedience!

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I think if that hadn't have happened
it would have passed on by.

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So, in 1951,

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the Labour government had
the National Parks Act...

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The Peak District was the first
national park to be designated

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and now you can...

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Anywhere on that plateau,
you can go walking.

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Right.
You're free to roam.

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All of Britain's national parks
can trace their roots back

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to the incredible scenes
that played out here.

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It just goes to show what
a small group of people can achieve

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if they stand together.

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Thanks to them, we can all
enjoy countryside like this.

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It's not only humans
that enjoy the Peak District,

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there are thousands of different
species of animals that live here

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and the guide devotes pages
listing the wildlife

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that could be found in 1935.

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But, there's one more recent animal
arrival I am determined to meet.

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I've heard that there is
an otter sanctuary nearby

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and I'm very keen to see it,

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so I have overruled the producers
and that's where I'm going now!

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They are just near
Chapel en le Frith off the A623.

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Hello!

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The Chestnut Centre
has been here for 30 years.

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I'm Richard.
Nice to meet you.

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And, its owner Carol Heap has
devoted her life to rescuing animals.

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If you'd like to go
round the other side.

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Unless you want to drive it?
I think I'll let you drive!

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Now there's a dangerous man.

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You know the way.
Yep.

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I'm very good with female drivers.
What, do you complain?

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Oh, I'd better hold on tight!

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I've got 16 otters here
at the moment.

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(SQUEAKING)

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Hello! You are talkative!

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I understand otter talk.

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(CAROL LAUGHS)

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They are saying, "I want my grub!"

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I believe they have two coats?
Is that right?

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They do, yes,
they have outer guard hairs,

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but then they have this
highly dense fur underneath.

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Oop!

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(CAROL LAUGHS)

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I wasn't paying attention, Carol!
They were!

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(BOTH LAUGH)

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Now, the giant otters you've got,
they are imported, are they?

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Yes, they both came
from German zoos.

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They themselves were
bred in captivity.

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(LOUD SQUEAKING)

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Oh, my goodness! They're huge!
Aren't they?

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How are we going to feed them?
Oh, you are going to feed them.

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How wonderful.

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You are going to throw one of those
into the water. Into the water?

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Without covering the rest of us
with fish juice, please!

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Here we go, dinner time!
What greedy beggars!

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Apparently, they eat up to
eight pounds of fish every day.

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Here is the last one
coming for hers.

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OK.

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Oh! OH!

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Although they're a good family unit
where food is concerned,

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they can be a little bit
jealous of each other!

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Just like humans then!

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(LOUD SQUEALING)

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They keep in contact with each other
by exactly what we are hearing now.

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They never...shut...up!

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You can say that again!

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So, can we see some other animals?
We certainly can.

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Let's go and have a look
at the deer.

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The Chestnut Centre is home
to around 40 fallow deer,

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which were introduced to this country
by the Normans.

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Aren't they beautiful?
Beautiful.

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Their summer coats as well,
true dapples.

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Spotty coats, aren't they?
Yeah.

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Storm is coming in,
wondering what we are doing.

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His antlers are still in velvet.

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In velvet?
Yeah.

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Look at this.
Oh, this is Spirit.

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Spirit! I've got to have
a chat with Spirit.

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You want to feed them?

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You can see even in the dark one,
she's got lighter spots on her.

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00:11:17,400 --> 00:11:18,520
Yes.

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What handsome creatures,

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and so quiet compared to
their noisy neighbours!

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I've really enjoyed my visit
to the Chestnut Centre.

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They are doing wonderful work

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in preservation of otters
and other animals,

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and I got to feed giant otters!

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I've never seen a giant otter,
never mind fed one!

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I got to feed these wonderful deer
from my hand with raisins.

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It's a rare privilege.

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This is a visit I'm going to remember
for a long time.

209
00:11:50,760 --> 00:11:54,120
And yes, it is a bit like paradise.

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00:11:54,120 --> 00:11:56,640
Time to leave the country

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00:11:56,640 --> 00:11:59,960
and hit the town of Buxton spa.

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00:12:06,989 --> 00:12:10,909
Today, I'm in Derbyshire
following the 1935 Shell Guide

213
00:12:10,909 --> 00:12:13,269
written by Christopher Hobhouse

214
00:12:13,269 --> 00:12:17,069
who claimed that the county
was akin to paradise.

215
00:12:17,069 --> 00:12:19,949
The next stop offs take me
to two well-known towns

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00:12:19,949 --> 00:12:23,469
on the edge of the Peak District
that he thought were delightful,

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00:12:23,469 --> 00:12:25,389
Buxton and Bakewell.

218
00:12:27,309 --> 00:12:31,549
According to Hobhouse, Buxton has
everything a tourist could wish for.

219
00:12:31,549 --> 00:12:34,589
Let's find out, shall we?

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00:12:34,589 --> 00:12:37,709
Buxton stands 1,000 feet
above sea level

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00:12:37,709 --> 00:12:40,469
and is the highest town in England.

222
00:12:40,469 --> 00:12:43,829
In the 18th century,
the Duke of Devonshire,

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00:12:43,829 --> 00:12:46,789
who was one of the richest men
in England at the time,

224
00:12:46,789 --> 00:12:52,109
spent a fortune developing Buxton
as a spa town to rival Bath.

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"Buxton, it is a delicious town,

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00:13:02,949 --> 00:13:06,389
"combining the intimacy
of a mountain village

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"with the spaciousness of
an 18th century spa.

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00:13:11,389 --> 00:13:13,749
"The town, while lacking in
architectural beauty,

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00:13:13,749 --> 00:13:17,349
"has the charm of being
full of open spaces

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00:13:17,349 --> 00:13:19,549
"and built of local materials."

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00:13:19,549 --> 00:13:24,629
It is rather odd that Hobhouse says
there is no architectural beauty

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00:13:24,629 --> 00:13:28,909
and has given a two-page spread
of his favourite building.

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00:13:28,909 --> 00:13:31,229
So, I'm just going to go
and have a look.

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00:13:32,909 --> 00:13:35,549
From the Georgian
to the Victorian era,

235
00:13:35,549 --> 00:13:37,669
the elegant Crescent
was full of hotels

236
00:13:37,669 --> 00:13:40,829
to accommodate the fashionable
spa visitors.

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00:13:40,829 --> 00:13:43,469
But, in the mid-20th century,

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the buildings started
to fall into disrepair

239
00:13:46,549 --> 00:13:49,949
and have lain empty
for over 25 years.

240
00:13:49,949 --> 00:13:52,429
Richard Tuffrey is one of
the council-led team

241
00:13:52,429 --> 00:13:54,629
bringing them back to life.

242
00:13:54,629 --> 00:13:57,549
I am privileged to get a tour
of the old spa baths

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00:13:57,549 --> 00:13:59,229
before the builders move in.

244
00:13:59,229 --> 00:14:00,949
So, here we are.

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00:14:00,949 --> 00:14:03,909
Ah, it smells.
It does. A bit musty.

246
00:14:03,909 --> 00:14:05,589
Of a bathhouse!

247
00:14:05,589 --> 00:14:10,349
Oh, yes! This is wonderful.
It's fantastic, isn't it?

248
00:14:10,349 --> 00:14:12,469
This was the ladies' pool.

249
00:14:12,469 --> 00:14:15,629
It was by far the best space
in the building.

250
00:14:15,629 --> 00:14:20,309
It's got this wonderful cast iron
column beam structure

251
00:14:20,309 --> 00:14:22,749
which was from the 1853 structure.

252
00:14:22,749 --> 00:14:24,989
The architect for this
actually worked

253
00:14:24,989 --> 00:14:27,909
quite closely with Joseph Paxton
at Chatsworth.

254
00:14:27,909 --> 00:14:30,029
You can see his influence

255
00:14:30,029 --> 00:14:32,829
with sort of elements of
the Crystal Palace here

256
00:14:32,829 --> 00:14:35,349
that Paxton went on
to build in London.

257
00:14:35,349 --> 00:14:39,029
How many ladies would be in here?
Who knows? Dozens probably.

258
00:14:39,029 --> 00:14:41,709
But, it was in constant use.

259
00:14:41,709 --> 00:14:44,469
So, the demand was so great

260
00:14:44,469 --> 00:14:48,309
there would never be a time when
there wasn't somebody in the water.

261
00:14:49,989 --> 00:14:54,749
I can imagine those bathers splashing
around in their elegant costumes.

262
00:14:56,309 --> 00:14:58,869
Well, I may not be able
to swim in them today,

263
00:14:58,869 --> 00:15:00,949
but I can at least feel them.

264
00:15:00,949 --> 00:15:04,869
Just over the road is the source
of the water, St Anne's Well.

265
00:15:04,869 --> 00:15:06,709
It is said to have healing powers.

266
00:15:06,709 --> 00:15:09,589
It is claimed that
Mary Queen of Scots,

267
00:15:09,589 --> 00:15:11,949
who suffered badly from rheumatism,

268
00:15:11,949 --> 00:15:15,749
came here to take in the waters
in the mid-16th century.

269
00:15:17,069 --> 00:15:21,149
The water that is coming out of
the well is about 5,000 years old.

270
00:15:21,149 --> 00:15:24,069
It's taken that long to work its way
through the system.

271
00:15:24,069 --> 00:15:26,109
This water is 5,000 years old?

272
00:15:26,109 --> 00:15:27,949
Absolutely, yes, yes.
My goodness!

273
00:15:29,909 --> 00:15:33,109
And if I drink this,
will it make me better?

274
00:15:36,349 --> 00:15:42,309
Hobhouse suggests that Buxton
has absolutely everything to offer.

275
00:15:42,309 --> 00:15:44,909
I was hoping perhaps

276
00:15:44,909 --> 00:15:50,069
that I might have a dip in
a nice, warm thermal bath.

277
00:15:50,069 --> 00:15:54,109
But, it looks as though I'm
going to be waiting for some time.

278
00:15:56,109 --> 00:15:58,949
Derbyshire is not only
famous for its water,

279
00:15:58,949 --> 00:16:01,949
it also produces world-famous food.

280
00:16:01,949 --> 00:16:07,229
I'm feeling a little peckish,
so back on the road to sample some.

281
00:16:07,229 --> 00:16:09,509
This is what I call
going for a drive.

282
00:16:09,509 --> 00:16:13,429
Wouldn't it be wonderful if all roads
were as beautiful and clear as this?

283
00:16:13,429 --> 00:16:16,469
The A6 cut straight through the heart
of the Peak District,

284
00:16:16,469 --> 00:16:20,749
and is blissful 20-minute journey
to the market town of Bakewell.

285
00:16:22,029 --> 00:16:26,389
Where all too soon it is back
to the usual town traffic mayhem!

286
00:16:26,389 --> 00:16:30,749
One of the places that
Hobhouse mentions is Bakewell.

287
00:16:32,109 --> 00:16:34,389
And you know what they make there.

288
00:16:34,389 --> 00:16:37,309
I've always been partial
to a bit of tart.

289
00:16:44,189 --> 00:16:46,909
I know what a Bakewell tart is,

290
00:16:46,909 --> 00:16:49,469
but I have no idea
what the pudding is.

291
00:16:49,469 --> 00:16:53,029
I have a feeling the producers
expect me to find out though!

292
00:16:54,189 --> 00:16:56,149
Looks rather tasty.

293
00:16:56,149 --> 00:16:58,989
Julie Hurst is going to teach me

294
00:16:58,989 --> 00:17:01,549
the difference between
a pudding and a tart.

295
00:17:01,549 --> 00:17:04,109
It's a tough job
but someone's got to do it.

296
00:17:05,549 --> 00:17:08,349
I've got here an example
of our Bakewell pudding.

297
00:17:08,349 --> 00:17:13,109
This is what we are famous for.
Our recipe dates back to the 1860s.

298
00:17:13,109 --> 00:17:15,869
Would you like to try a piece of
the Bakewell tart and pudding

299
00:17:15,869 --> 00:17:17,309
and see which you prefer?

300
00:17:17,309 --> 00:17:18,629
OK.

301
00:17:18,629 --> 00:17:20,669
Mmm, this is my type of challenge!

302
00:17:20,669 --> 00:17:23,949
That's a typically iced
Bakewell tart

303
00:17:23,949 --> 00:17:26,949
with a drier sponge and
short crust pastry base.

304
00:17:26,949 --> 00:17:29,469
And the jam.
And the jam.

305
00:17:29,469 --> 00:17:32,029
You've got the Bakewell pudding

306
00:17:32,029 --> 00:17:34,869
which is puff pastry,
strawberry jam,

307
00:17:34,869 --> 00:17:38,269
and we've added the ingredient which
makes quite a jelly eggy texture.

308
00:17:38,269 --> 00:17:39,909
Can you see the difference?
Yeah.

309
00:17:39,909 --> 00:17:42,709
So, that is your Bakewell pudding.
OK.

310
00:17:42,709 --> 00:17:45,949
Even more to taste, excellent!

311
00:17:45,949 --> 00:17:49,109
Well, I prefer the pudding.

312
00:17:49,109 --> 00:17:51,349
Well done! (LAUGHS)

313
00:17:51,349 --> 00:17:54,189
Was that the right thing to say?
That was the right answer.

314
00:17:54,189 --> 00:17:56,789
When it was made back in the 1860s,

315
00:17:56,789 --> 00:17:59,909
we think the young lady was making
a tart or a frangipane.

316
00:17:59,909 --> 00:18:03,029
She missed the flour out and what
came out was the Bakewell pudding.

317
00:18:03,029 --> 00:18:06,029
It's like an eggy texture
with there being no flour in.

318
00:18:06,029 --> 00:18:10,629
So, our company here have the recipe
that dates back to the 1860s.

319
00:18:10,629 --> 00:18:13,789
Mrs Wilson...
Mrs Wilson? Any relation to me?

320
00:18:13,789 --> 00:18:15,189
No! (LAUGHS)

321
00:18:15,189 --> 00:18:17,709
..who owned this business
used to make candles.

322
00:18:17,709 --> 00:18:19,909
She realised there was
money to be made.

323
00:18:19,909 --> 00:18:22,269
The dish had become popular
at the local pub.

324
00:18:22,269 --> 00:18:24,389
She was a candle maker.
Originally.

325
00:18:24,389 --> 00:18:26,309
She became a pudding maker.
She did.

326
00:18:26,309 --> 00:18:29,229
She made a lot more money
than when she was doing candles!

327
00:18:29,229 --> 00:18:31,549
So, in here you've got
ground almonds,

328
00:18:31,549 --> 00:18:34,509
eggs, butter and sugar.

329
00:18:34,509 --> 00:18:37,749
But, there is a secret ingredient
which I cannot tell you.

330
00:18:37,749 --> 00:18:39,629
Can you whisper it to me?
No! No.

331
00:18:39,629 --> 00:18:41,629
I'm not going to play then!

332
00:18:41,629 --> 00:18:44,229
Have a taste and see if
you can guess! No, no, no!

333
00:18:44,229 --> 00:18:46,549
She's a tough cookie this one!

334
00:18:46,549 --> 00:18:49,429
There is no way she is going to
divulge the secret.

335
00:18:49,429 --> 00:18:51,429
Am I going to do this?
Yes.

336
00:18:51,429 --> 00:18:55,469
What you've got here is puff pastry.
Is the secret ingredient in there?

337
00:18:55,469 --> 00:18:57,589
No, that's just puff pastry.
OK.

338
00:18:57,589 --> 00:19:00,789
So, because this is
a very light mixture,

339
00:19:00,789 --> 00:19:03,589
we need to have a flat bottom
so it ends up looking like that.

340
00:19:03,589 --> 00:19:06,149
Yeah. Yours is certainly
better than mine.

341
00:19:06,149 --> 00:19:09,189
And this is...?
Seedless strawberry jam.

342
00:19:09,189 --> 00:19:13,469
When does that go in, after that?
It goes in here, now.

343
00:19:13,469 --> 00:19:16,309
You drop a little bit of jam
in the bottom like that.

344
00:19:16,309 --> 00:19:19,549
Do you want me to pop it in for you?
Pop that in for me.

345
00:19:19,549 --> 00:19:20,709
OK.

346
00:19:20,709 --> 00:19:24,109
I think Mary Berry may have something
to say about my soggy bottom!

347
00:19:24,109 --> 00:19:25,909
The next thing is the mixture.

348
00:19:25,909 --> 00:19:28,589
You are looking to
just cover your jam,

349
00:19:28,589 --> 00:19:30,709
which is about that amount.

350
00:19:30,709 --> 00:19:31,909
OK.
That's it.

351
00:19:31,909 --> 00:19:33,709
What we do with these now,

352
00:19:33,709 --> 00:19:35,829
is we pop them in the oven
for about 20 minutes.

353
00:19:35,829 --> 00:19:38,949
They will bake and rise.
Then we turn the oven off.

354
00:19:38,949 --> 00:19:41,589
Open the oven door and they
come back down and set again.

355
00:19:41,589 --> 00:19:43,629
They are ready to eat.
OK.

356
00:19:43,629 --> 00:19:49,189
What a lot of bother and I still
don't know the secret ingredient!

357
00:19:49,189 --> 00:19:53,229
While I'm waiting for them to bake,
time for a quick cuppa.

358
00:19:53,229 --> 00:19:54,509
First time?

359
00:19:54,509 --> 00:19:57,789
Twenty minutes later
and here is my masterpiece!

360
00:19:57,789 --> 00:19:59,589
Is that mine?
Yeah.

361
00:19:59,589 --> 00:20:03,469
Very good but it needs to set.
It's a very good pudding though.

362
00:20:03,469 --> 00:20:07,189
I am impressed by my
pudding making...skills.

363
00:20:07,189 --> 00:20:08,909
But, that's your tuition!

364
00:20:08,909 --> 00:20:11,789
It doesn't look as attractive
as a tart,

365
00:20:11,789 --> 00:20:14,669
but the proof of the pudding
is in the eating!

366
00:20:14,669 --> 00:20:16,709
Yes!

367
00:20:16,709 --> 00:20:20,109
Did you enjoy your pudding, sir?
I thought it was delicious.

368
00:20:20,109 --> 00:20:23,469
I've always been a fan of
Bakewell tart but that pudding...

369
00:20:23,469 --> 00:20:25,509
Is that your first pudding?
Yeah.

370
00:20:25,509 --> 00:20:28,149
I've got a very sweet tooth
and it is delicious.

371
00:20:28,149 --> 00:20:30,389
Very moreish!

372
00:20:30,389 --> 00:20:33,029
They tell me there is
a secret ingredient.

373
00:20:33,029 --> 00:20:35,549
But, they won't tell me what it is!

374
00:20:35,549 --> 00:20:37,549
(LAUGHTER)

375
00:20:37,549 --> 00:20:39,869
Hobhouse in the guide

376
00:20:39,869 --> 00:20:43,149
makes a passing reference
to Bakewell tart,

377
00:20:43,149 --> 00:20:47,549
but I have just made and tasted
Bakewell pudding,

378
00:20:47,549 --> 00:20:50,309
which I think is much nicer.

379
00:20:50,309 --> 00:20:52,669
I think Hobhouse
missed a trick there!

380
00:20:53,909 --> 00:20:57,149
In my 1935 Shell Guide to Derbyshire,

381
00:20:57,149 --> 00:20:59,629
Hobhouse said this was
a paradise in Britain

382
00:20:59,629 --> 00:21:01,549
and I tend to agree with him.

383
00:21:01,549 --> 00:21:04,629
It has extraordinary food,
the purest water,

384
00:21:04,629 --> 00:21:06,549
and amazing architecture.

385
00:21:06,549 --> 00:21:10,789
But, the thing that has impressed me
the most has been its natural beauty

386
00:21:10,789 --> 00:21:12,909
and I feel a strong debt of gratitude

387
00:21:12,909 --> 00:21:15,349
to the people who fought
the powers that be

388
00:21:15,349 --> 00:21:17,629
to make it available to all.

389
00:21:22,309 --> 00:21:24,109
Next time in Durham,

390
00:21:24,109 --> 00:21:27,429
Deborah and I have a little
difficulty navigating the roads!

391
00:21:28,509 --> 00:21:32,189
This is not what I am
agreeing to do ever again!

392
00:21:32,189 --> 00:21:35,469
I visit the 14th century
Raby Castle,

393
00:21:35,469 --> 00:21:39,269
and I get to blast out a tune
at Durham Cathedral!

394
00:21:39,269 --> 00:21:41,989
(ORGAN BOOMING)

395
00:21:41,989 --> 00:21:44,909
OH! Oh, I could do that all day!

396
00:21:44,909 --> 00:21:46,909
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