1
00:00:05,000 --> 00:00:08,360
At first glance this city is
much like any other great capital,

2
00:00:08,360 --> 00:00:13,280
but Moscow is even more about
money and glitz than I'd imagined.

3
00:00:22,440 --> 00:00:25,520
Arkady Novikov
is at all the posh parties.

4
00:00:25,520 --> 00:00:28,720
He was once turned down for a
job in the kitchens at McDonald's.

5
00:00:28,720 --> 00:00:33,800
Now he owns more than
100 chic restaurants,
and knows everyone that matters.

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00:00:33,800 --> 00:00:35,960
He is, as they say, "The Man".

7
00:00:39,600 --> 00:00:43,800
This bash is for Madonna,
who's in town for a megaconcert.

8
00:00:51,040 --> 00:00:55,920
In the scrum of
minders and paparazzi,
just a glimpse of the lady herself.

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00:00:57,480 --> 00:01:00,360
This city worships
the rich and famous.

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00:01:31,120 --> 00:01:35,160
This is my first visit to Moscow
since the collapse of communism.

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00:01:36,680 --> 00:01:41,120
No prizes for recognising
this as Red Square.

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00:01:41,120 --> 00:01:46,040
St Basil's down there
and here, the Kremlin, which for me

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00:01:46,040 --> 00:01:52,360
still is always associated with the
Soviet Union, what President Reagan
used to call "the evil empire".

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00:01:52,360 --> 00:01:56,480
This was the enemy, the threat
in the nuclear age, and I still

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00:01:56,480 --> 00:02:01,320
have that sort of odd sensation when
I'm standing here looking at it now.

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00:02:03,480 --> 00:02:06,200
On the outside,
there's little change,

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00:02:06,200 --> 00:02:12,000
but behind the historic facade,
it's a very different world.

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00:02:19,720 --> 00:02:26,440
The famous department store, Gum,
used to be exceptionally gloomy,
now look at it.

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00:02:32,960 --> 00:02:37,040
But my purpose on this trip is not
to binge on bling, but to find out

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00:02:37,040 --> 00:02:43,160
how much has changed away from the
capital of conspicuous consumption,

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00:02:43,160 --> 00:02:46,320
though I can't resist
one last taste of it.

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00:02:48,920 --> 00:02:55,200
Arkady Novikov has invited me and my
fluent-in-Russian producer, Teresa,
to visit one of his restaurants.

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00:02:55,200 --> 00:02:58,480
Lots of beautiful girls he says, as
you'll see. Lots of beautiful girls.

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What sort of prices do you pay
in this restaurant for a meal?

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00:03:02,680 --> 00:03:05,360
HE SPEAKS RUSSIAN

26
00:03:05,360 --> 00:03:09,560
Mm-hm. Roughly 50 for a... 50.
..for a lunch, you know,
for a good lunch.

27
00:03:11,320 --> 00:03:17,080
The restaurants favoured by the "in
crowd" are also said to be watering
holes for the rich and wicked,

28
00:03:17,080 --> 00:03:22,800
where they and the politicians
scheme and scam, over some of the
best food you can get anywhere.

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00:03:22,800 --> 00:03:24,920
Arkady will have none of it.

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00:03:29,480 --> 00:03:33,280
"Look around you", he insists,
"they're really nice people,

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00:03:33,280 --> 00:03:37,800
"ordinary people, maybe it happens
but it could happen anywhere.

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00:03:37,800 --> 00:03:40,680
"Every family has its
black sheep", he says.

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00:03:40,680 --> 00:03:45,040
"For that matter you could find the
same thing in western restaurants."

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00:03:47,280 --> 00:03:51,720
You've now got 100 restaurants,
how long before you're at 200?

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TERESA TRANSLATES

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00:03:56,920 --> 00:03:59,360
HE SPEAKS RUSSIAN

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00:03:59,360 --> 00:04:01,040
It's all up to God.

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What's the secret?

39
00:04:07,400 --> 00:04:09,640
You have to be professional
and work a lot.

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00:04:12,200 --> 00:04:17,320
Arkady is a very rich man because
he's touched a new Russian nerve.

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00:04:17,320 --> 00:04:20,960
Muscovites spend as
if there's no tomorrow,

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00:04:20,960 --> 00:04:25,200
and the city is now the
most expensive in the world.

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00:04:26,720 --> 00:04:29,400
An absurd sight!

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00:04:29,400 --> 00:04:32,200
The nation's capital
has a real buzz.

45
00:04:32,200 --> 00:04:36,320
However, I'm in search of another
Russia beyond Moscow,

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00:04:36,320 --> 00:04:39,360
that Russia where the
great majority live.

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00:04:48,760 --> 00:04:53,680
Moscow going south, I feel a bit
like a schoolboy, I've got my money,

48
00:04:53,680 --> 00:04:56,720
just go and try and get a ticket
and hope that I get the right train.

49
00:04:56,720 --> 00:05:00,160
I think it's platform nine
or train nine. We'll see.

50
00:05:03,960 --> 00:05:05,600
Is that right?

51
00:05:05,600 --> 00:05:08,040
Great.

52
00:05:08,040 --> 00:05:10,160
Spasiba.

53
00:05:10,160 --> 00:05:13,040
I'm getting better.
At least I can do "spasiba".

54
00:05:15,720 --> 00:05:19,360
Some of these trains are more than
a kilometre in length, and of course

55
00:05:19,360 --> 00:05:22,440
my carriage has to be
right at the end.

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00:05:22,440 --> 00:05:25,040
I've got a couple of minutes.

57
00:05:32,120 --> 00:05:34,240
Phew, made it.

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00:05:37,720 --> 00:05:42,000
A tremendously good smell of food.

59
00:05:42,000 --> 00:05:45,160
A little smell of food and
a little bit of bodies as well.

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00:05:56,800 --> 00:06:00,520
I had a three-hour
journey ahead of me.

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00:06:00,520 --> 00:06:02,040
Time for a good read...

62
00:06:03,640 --> 00:06:05,360
..or so I thought.

63
00:06:05,360 --> 00:06:06,880
Book...?

64
00:06:06,880 --> 00:06:08,880
Yeah, well I'm reading this book.

65
00:06:08,880 --> 00:06:12,560
It's a very famous
Russian book called...

66
00:06:12,560 --> 00:06:15,000
Anna Karenina by Tolstoy.

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00:06:15,000 --> 00:06:18,200
Ahh. You know Tolstoy? Great man.

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00:06:18,200 --> 00:06:20,320
Tolstoy. Yeah, he's a great man.

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00:06:21,840 --> 00:06:25,320
It's one of the intriguing things
about travelling by train

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00:06:25,320 --> 00:06:29,280
is that you do have these totally
incomprehensible conversations.

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00:06:29,280 --> 00:06:32,160
Sometimes - I don't want to
cast any aspersions -

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00:06:32,160 --> 00:06:37,680
with individuals who've had
a drop or more of liquor.

73
00:06:37,680 --> 00:06:39,560
'They're migrant workers.

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00:06:39,560 --> 00:06:43,760
'Moscow sucks them in and spits them
out in their thousands of thousands.

75
00:06:43,760 --> 00:06:45,280
'No wonder they drink.'

76
00:06:48,160 --> 00:06:49,320
Very good.

77
00:06:49,320 --> 00:06:51,960
'I needed help.
Teresa to the rescue.'

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00:06:51,960 --> 00:06:54,920
That's his brother up here.

79
00:06:54,920 --> 00:06:56,920
He's already drunk. Yes.

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00:06:56,920 --> 00:06:59,840
Let him sleep, he says. Yeah.

81
00:06:59,840 --> 00:07:02,120
'My new companion is a labourer.

82
00:07:02,120 --> 00:07:07,800
'He comes from Ukraine, but his
home town can't provide anything
like the wages in Moscow.

83
00:07:07,800 --> 00:07:12,640
'It may be tough in the capital,
but there ARE compensations.'

84
00:07:12,640 --> 00:07:17,960
There's lots of everything,
lots of... Lots of everything.
Sights, lots of attractions...

85
00:07:20,200 --> 00:07:23,800
Mm-hm. He likes all those games,
you know, you can have,

86
00:07:23,800 --> 00:07:25,360
like firing rangers

87
00:07:25,360 --> 00:07:30,000
and all those sort of like,
amusement parks. Karaoke.

88
00:07:30,000 --> 00:07:34,120
Karaoke. Do you do Karaoke?

89
00:07:35,360 --> 00:07:37,520
Yeah, he does, yeah, easy-peasy.

90
00:07:37,520 --> 00:07:39,640
He loves that kind of thing.

91
00:07:43,000 --> 00:07:46,240
Very good to meet you.
Very nice to talk to you, thank you.

92
00:07:46,240 --> 00:07:48,240
I'll have one more.

93
00:07:48,240 --> 00:07:50,360
One little bit more.

94
00:07:55,240 --> 00:07:56,560
'Back to my book again.'

95
00:08:00,680 --> 00:08:03,840
I'm re-reading my
favourite of all novels.

96
00:08:03,840 --> 00:08:09,200
I first read it over
40 years ago and I loved it then,
and it's just as good today.

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00:08:09,200 --> 00:08:12,760
It has those famous opening words.

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00:08:12,760 --> 00:08:19,400
"Happy families are all alike,
each unhappy family
is unhappy in its own way".

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00:08:19,400 --> 00:08:24,000
It is, of course, Tolstoy's
Anna Karenina.

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00:08:24,000 --> 00:08:27,440
It is a sensational work of genius

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and I'm going to soon be
where he wrote this book,

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at his home, on his estate,
a place called Yasnaya Polyana.

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00:08:49,640 --> 00:08:54,000
Yasnaya Polyana is a shrine
to Russia's greatest writer.

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00:08:59,160 --> 00:09:03,160
Tolstoy is revered not only
for his literary genius,

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but because he saw into the
very soul of the Russian people.

106
00:09:09,280 --> 00:09:12,360
The Bolsheviks preserved his
estate for the nation,

107
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although he actually believed
in anarchism, not communism.

108
00:09:17,120 --> 00:09:18,880
You must be Alana, yes?

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00:09:18,880 --> 00:09:20,960
Alana. Alana, I'm Jonathan.

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00:09:20,960 --> 00:09:22,840
Hi. Hi.

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00:09:22,840 --> 00:09:24,440
These on first, yes? Yes.

112
00:09:24,440 --> 00:09:28,440
That's very important that
you have them. Of course.

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00:09:28,440 --> 00:09:32,160
Well, presumably you have a lot of
people treading through the house.

114
00:09:32,160 --> 00:09:35,880
Yeah, we have around
150,000 visitors a year.

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00:09:35,880 --> 00:09:38,240
150,000? Wow.

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00:09:50,240 --> 00:09:52,640
You can go round so many
houses and it's sort of

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nearly the same or there's other
work, but this is exactly the same.

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00:09:57,120 --> 00:10:00,760
The shelving there,
the desk and him sitting...

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00:10:00,760 --> 00:10:05,240
In this little... Right there, and
that sofa's still there and even the
photographs, still the same.

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00:10:05,240 --> 00:10:06,840
That's completely brilliant.

121
00:10:06,840 --> 00:10:09,720
And by the way, the black
couch on which he was born.

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00:10:09,720 --> 00:10:13,840
That was a family tradition,
that all the children were
to be born on this couch.

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00:10:13,840 --> 00:10:17,560
On the couch, he insisted,
didn't he? All his children
were born on the couch.

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00:10:17,560 --> 00:10:20,280
Yes, and some of his
grandchildren even.

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00:10:22,040 --> 00:10:25,480
This is his bedroom?
His bedroom, yes. How extraordinary.

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00:10:25,480 --> 00:10:28,320
And here is Tolstoy's famous
blouse called Tolstovka.

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00:10:28,320 --> 00:10:30,440
Oh, yes. Can I touch it?

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00:10:30,440 --> 00:10:34,400
Well, actually people are not
supposed to, but you can, I think.

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00:10:34,400 --> 00:10:40,720
So I'm breaking...
So, that's the smock that we see him
in so many times in those portraits.

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00:10:44,000 --> 00:10:49,680
Late in life, Tolstoy became
even more renowned as a radical
thinker than for his novels.

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He was feared by the Czarist
authorities, but he was held in awe
and impossible to silence.

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He was also an iconoclast.

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00:11:02,160 --> 00:11:05,600
Though his Christian faith was
profound, he rejected the doctrines

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00:11:05,600 --> 00:11:10,240
of the Orthodox Church, for which
mortal sin he was excommunicated.

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00:11:14,080 --> 00:11:17,680
Tolstoy believed the peasants to
have a God-given nobility

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00:11:17,680 --> 00:11:20,520
and his descendant is recreating
Yasnaya Polyana

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00:11:20,520 --> 00:11:24,600
according to principles he thinks
the great man would have endorsed.

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00:11:28,440 --> 00:11:31,720
This is the kind of thing
I absolutely love -

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00:11:31,720 --> 00:11:35,960
I think I've just had Tolstoyan
fantasies ever since I was a child,

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00:11:35,960 --> 00:11:38,120
which is why Anna Karenina
meant so much.

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00:11:38,120 --> 00:11:42,880
The key figure in Anna
Karenina, based on Tolstoy's
autobiographical Levin,

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00:11:42,880 --> 00:11:48,920
was actually someone who
loved farming, he loved
travelling, he loved thinking,

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he loved communicating, he was a
complex, difficult person and my
sort of Tolstoyan fantasy

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is that you can be a landed
gentleman,

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00:11:58,000 --> 00:12:01,200
you can pretend you can work hard
as a peasant at the same time,

146
00:12:01,200 --> 00:12:08,040
but it really sort of gets me here,
and coming here is exactly what
I thought it would be like.

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00:12:14,440 --> 00:12:17,680
Tolstoy was buried in
the heart of his estate.

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00:12:17,680 --> 00:12:20,880
His quiet grave a memorial to a
national hero,

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00:12:20,880 --> 00:12:24,280
whose dreams for Russia
would soon turn to dust.

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00:12:31,000 --> 00:12:35,280
Tolstoy's romantic view of
the peasants was widely shared.

151
00:12:35,280 --> 00:12:39,240
When he wrote "the peasants
are closer to God than we are",

152
00:12:39,240 --> 00:12:43,320
intellectuals, writers and artists
would nod their head in agreement,

153
00:12:43,320 --> 00:12:45,880
but it was a rather
rose-tinted view.

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00:12:45,880 --> 00:12:51,280
Chekhov wrote, perhaps rather
more clinically, as behoves a
doctor as well as a playwright,

155
00:12:51,280 --> 00:12:55,280
"the peasants are coarse, dirty,
drunk, quarrelsome

156
00:12:55,280 --> 00:12:59,640
"and they live in mutual fear
and suspicion all the time".

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00:12:59,640 --> 00:13:03,880
Whatever the truth, the story of
the peasants is a thread that is

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00:13:03,880 --> 00:13:08,120
woven through the story of Russia,
right up to the present day.

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00:13:08,120 --> 00:13:13,360
So, I'm on my way south now
into the agricultural heartland
of Mother Russia.

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00:13:18,760 --> 00:13:23,080
Our journey had started
far to the north of Moscow.

161
00:13:23,080 --> 00:13:28,120
Now pushing on from Yasnaya Polyana,
we enter the vast Russian steppe...

162
00:13:28,120 --> 00:13:31,960
the arable flatlands that
surround the city of Voronezh.

163
00:13:39,360 --> 00:13:43,440
The best way to sense the scale of
this land is to see it from the air.

164
00:13:49,920 --> 00:13:56,520
It's like this for as far as I can
see, right away into the
distant horizon.

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00:13:56,520 --> 00:14:04,560
Huge fields, I can't judge the
exact size, but I would say they're
60/70/100 acre fields with trees

166
00:14:04,560 --> 00:14:09,840
acting as a windbrake to stop
this valuable soil blowing away.

167
00:14:09,840 --> 00:14:15,920
It just goes on and on and on. It
makes East Anglia seem like a little
pocket handkerchief,

168
00:14:15,920 --> 00:14:19,240
and where I live in
Devon like a little dot.

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00:14:20,960 --> 00:14:25,840
The soil below us here is some
of the very best in the world.

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00:14:25,840 --> 00:14:27,720
"Black earth" they call it.

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00:14:27,720 --> 00:14:31,120
A 19th century famous
Russian agronomist said,

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00:14:31,120 --> 00:14:37,280
"It's the Czar of soils, more
valuable than oil, more
precious than gold".

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00:14:43,080 --> 00:14:45,520
As soon as I was safely
back on the ground,

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00:14:45,520 --> 00:14:50,040
I wanted more than anything else to
find somewhere I could dig
my fingers into this soil

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00:14:50,040 --> 00:14:51,560
and feel it for myself.

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00:14:53,680 --> 00:14:57,520
We came across a group
of women picking potatoes.

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00:14:59,040 --> 00:15:03,120
What's fascinating about this is,
this is a family plot,

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00:15:03,120 --> 00:15:06,120
the family plots like
this, the small plots,

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00:15:06,120 --> 00:15:13,400
produce 95% of Russia's total
demand for these basic crop
potatoes,

180
00:15:13,400 --> 00:15:18,040
and that's gone on throughout
the centuries, and THIS...

181
00:15:18,040 --> 00:15:23,080
this...this is the black earth
in which it's done

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00:15:23,080 --> 00:15:28,160
and this is a metre depth of soil,
this is fantastically rich.

183
00:15:28,160 --> 00:15:30,840
It's what we saw from the sky
but seeing it here...

184
00:15:32,240 --> 00:15:34,280
..it's great stuff.

185
00:15:34,280 --> 00:15:37,280
You can understand
why farmers love it.

186
00:15:38,800 --> 00:15:42,920
How important for your family
income are these potatoes?

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00:15:42,920 --> 00:15:45,040
TERESA TRANSLATES

188
00:15:46,440 --> 00:15:48,000
WOMAN REPLIES IN RUSSIAN

189
00:15:48,000 --> 00:15:49,520
Of course, of course it is.

190
00:15:53,560 --> 00:15:59,960
Because...the more potatoes you
can sell, then you can buy things for
your children...

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00:15:59,960 --> 00:16:01,760
People live on it.

192
00:16:02,960 --> 00:16:05,760
Soft life or hard life, is it?

193
00:16:12,240 --> 00:16:17,040
What do you think? Do you think
it's an easy life? It's hard!

194
00:16:17,040 --> 00:16:20,560
I thought you might say that. I feel
guilty. I think I ought to help.

195
00:16:27,400 --> 00:16:30,720
Send us a combine harvester,
that'll do it.

196
00:16:30,720 --> 00:16:32,720
THEY LAUGH

197
00:16:35,600 --> 00:16:40,040
She says not having your
bottom up in the air like that.

198
00:16:42,720 --> 00:16:46,800
It's true. All you see
is bottom. Try it all day,
try it for a whole day.

199
00:16:51,240 --> 00:16:56,640
In many ways, Russia's peasants
live much as they did a century ago.

200
00:16:56,640 --> 00:17:02,320
Once more,
theirs is a hand-to-mouth existence
on the margins of the money economy.

201
00:17:03,840 --> 00:17:11,480
Stalin set out to destroy peasant
agriculture and replace it with
massive farms known as collectives.

202
00:17:11,480 --> 00:17:15,320
Food production on an industrial
scale to nourish the workers

203
00:17:15,320 --> 00:17:18,480
who laboured in the factories
to build the Soviet Union.

204
00:17:24,040 --> 00:17:26,040
The plan produced a nightmare.

205
00:17:28,200 --> 00:17:31,720
The peasants were forced to
surrender their farms to the state -

206
00:17:31,720 --> 00:17:34,440
there was no choice
and no compensation.

207
00:17:34,440 --> 00:17:39,320
Those who dared refuse,
often the most go-getting,
were branded as kulaks.

208
00:17:39,320 --> 00:17:43,280
They were shot or sent to
hard-labour camps in Siberia,

209
00:17:43,280 --> 00:17:48,760
and all the food,
almost every grain of it,
was requisitioned for the factories.

210
00:17:48,760 --> 00:17:51,680
As a result, with the full
knowledge of the Kremlin,

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00:17:51,680 --> 00:17:55,400
millions of peasants died in the
man-made famine that followed.

212
00:18:03,240 --> 00:18:07,080
Eventually, the collectives
staggered into full production.

213
00:18:07,080 --> 00:18:10,280
They were extremely inefficient
and heavily subsidised

214
00:18:10,280 --> 00:18:13,400
but they yielded just enough food
to feed the urban masses

215
00:18:13,400 --> 00:18:18,000
as well as the rural workers who
harvested the crops on their behalf.

216
00:18:18,000 --> 00:18:22,360
But when communism collapsed,
so did the collectives.

217
00:18:25,360 --> 00:18:26,760
In some areas today,

218
00:18:26,760 --> 00:18:30,120
Moscow's nouveaux riche
are buying up the land.

219
00:18:30,120 --> 00:18:33,560
In others, the collectives have
been turned into co-operatives,

220
00:18:33,560 --> 00:18:37,720
but without any state support
many of them are virtually bankrupt.

221
00:18:37,720 --> 00:18:41,560
Russia's peasants are poor
but they're as stoical today

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00:18:41,560 --> 00:18:46,520
as they were in the time of Tolstoy,
their tenacity quite remarkable.

223
00:18:48,400 --> 00:18:52,600
As an old man, Tolstoy
adored the fields and forests,

224
00:18:52,600 --> 00:18:58,080
but as a young man he conceived
a passion for the mountains
and I wanted to follow him there.

225
00:18:58,080 --> 00:19:03,480
Moscow was now a long way behind us
as we headed south from Voronezh,

226
00:19:03,480 --> 00:19:07,080
across the steppe towards the
mountains of the Caucasus.

227
00:19:07,080 --> 00:19:11,480
For generations, Russians in search
of excitement and romance

228
00:19:11,480 --> 00:19:15,320
have taken a similar route
towards Pyatigorsk.

229
00:19:16,280 --> 00:19:20,480
We've been travelling now
for just about ten hours.

230
00:19:20,480 --> 00:19:25,840
It's been an entirely uneventful
journey through mile after mile

231
00:19:25,840 --> 00:19:31,520
of endless farmlands
like this and then suddenly

232
00:19:31,520 --> 00:19:35,520
you see in the distance,
looming out, the mountains.

233
00:19:44,200 --> 00:19:48,240
Pyatigorsk is a spa town
surrounded by mountains.

234
00:19:52,800 --> 00:19:56,760
In the 19th century,
it was a fashionable resort

235
00:19:56,760 --> 00:20:00,960
where you could breathe the mountain
air and refresh your jaded spirits.

236
00:20:05,520 --> 00:20:08,960
Beyond the city, the Imperial
army were struggling to subdue

237
00:20:08,960 --> 00:20:13,320
the mountain tribes along what was
then Russia's southern border.

238
00:20:13,320 --> 00:20:17,360
As a young army officer,
Tolstoy fought in that war,

239
00:20:17,360 --> 00:20:22,280
exhilarated by the fighting
but haunted by its brutality.

240
00:20:28,520 --> 00:20:32,160
The more Tolstoy saw,
the more he admired the enemy,

241
00:20:32,160 --> 00:20:35,000
their bravery and their
passion for independence,

242
00:20:35,000 --> 00:20:38,920
the very qualities the Russians
were trying to stamp out.

243
00:20:45,000 --> 00:20:49,160
At that time, Pyatigorsk was
filled with army officers
on leave from the front,

244
00:20:49,160 --> 00:20:53,720
a place of romantic intrigue
and exotic danger.

245
00:20:54,680 --> 00:21:01,480
The great poet Lermontov wrote,
"It is crowded with dancers,
gamblers and brawlers.

246
00:21:01,480 --> 00:21:04,800
"We are inflamed by women by day

247
00:21:04,800 --> 00:21:07,400
"and by bedbugs by night."

248
00:21:10,360 --> 00:21:12,200
It has somewhat altered.

249
00:21:15,040 --> 00:21:16,960
We should have been
on our way by now,

250
00:21:16,960 --> 00:21:21,360
but how could I refuse an invitation
to a wedding in the Caucasus?

251
00:21:21,360 --> 00:21:23,360
FOLK MUSIC PLAYS

252
00:21:25,200 --> 00:21:28,600
The preparations start
early in the morning.

253
00:21:28,600 --> 00:21:33,120
A sheep is a wedding gift which
will be slaughtered for the feast.

254
00:21:34,080 --> 00:21:36,000
Everyone brings something.

255
00:21:38,000 --> 00:21:42,840
By tradition, there's a court jester
as well, fiercesome but funny.

256
00:21:59,960 --> 00:22:03,960
The women have grace, but it's
the men who take the starring role.

257
00:22:05,480 --> 00:22:08,120
Swordsmen strutting their stuff.

258
00:22:12,080 --> 00:22:17,040
The same steps that their
forefathers used in mortal combat
only a few generations ago.

259
00:22:21,240 --> 00:22:24,280
They made me try as well...
thoroughly embarrassing.

260
00:22:33,480 --> 00:22:36,760
The wedding is not only a
celebration but a reminder that

261
00:22:36,760 --> 00:22:39,640
these people have their roots
in a warrior culture.

262
00:22:40,880 --> 00:22:41,920
GUNSHOT

263
00:22:41,920 --> 00:22:44,400
Not so long ago,
my driver, on the left here,

264
00:22:44,400 --> 00:22:48,120
crossed the mountains into Abkasia
to fight alongside his brothers

265
00:22:48,120 --> 00:22:52,240
in their struggle for independence,
not from Russia, but Georgia.

266
00:23:00,800 --> 00:23:05,120
Everyone in the village has known
the bride since she was a baby,

267
00:23:05,120 --> 00:23:09,600
but there's still a moment
of suspense - her unveiling.

268
00:23:12,400 --> 00:23:16,080
Tradition requires the bride to
be kidnapped by the bridegroom

269
00:23:16,080 --> 00:23:17,960
two weeks before their wedding.

270
00:23:17,960 --> 00:23:22,920
After that there's a tit for tat and
then a ransom, or at least I
think that's what's happening.

271
00:23:24,840 --> 00:23:30,720
The bridegroom's mother is being
held captive by the bride's family

272
00:23:30,720 --> 00:23:38,040
and the bridegroom's mother's son,
who's not getting married but is the
son, has to buy back his mother.

273
00:23:39,560 --> 00:23:40,800
Got it?

274
00:23:49,640 --> 00:23:53,520
As the sun begins to set,
someone is still missing.

275
00:23:53,520 --> 00:23:56,640
MAN SHOUTS OUT AND OTHERS REPLY

276
00:23:56,640 --> 00:23:59,200
The man himself.

277
00:24:04,280 --> 00:24:07,360
His first task is to
apologise to the bride's family

278
00:24:07,360 --> 00:24:11,440
for kidnapping their daughter,
but he still gets his comeuppance.

279
00:24:13,200 --> 00:24:15,240
HE SHOUTS AT THE GROOM

280
00:24:18,440 --> 00:24:21,000
Only now can the happy
couple tie the knot.

281
00:24:23,120 --> 00:24:25,560
An appropriate moment
to leave them to it.

282
00:24:32,560 --> 00:24:34,960
From the wedding in
Kabardino-Balkaria,

283
00:24:34,960 --> 00:24:40,280
we headed east through the Caucasus
towards Daghestan and
the Caspian Sea,

284
00:24:40,280 --> 00:24:47,600
but on our way we paused
to visit a bitter reminder
of the Chechen war - Beslan.

285
00:24:50,000 --> 00:24:53,560
To reach Beslan, we had
to cross into North Ossetia,

286
00:24:53,560 --> 00:24:57,120
the only Christian republic
in the Russian Caucasus.

287
00:24:57,120 --> 00:25:00,840
The same route that was taken
one morning in 2004

288
00:25:00,840 --> 00:25:04,720
by terrorists fighting
for Chechen independence.

289
00:25:06,280 --> 00:25:09,880
It was September 1st,
the start of the new school year.

290
00:25:11,400 --> 00:25:15,000
Three days later,
Beslan became a slaughterhouse.

291
00:25:23,320 --> 00:25:28,320
The gunmen had seized
more than 1,100 children,
parents and teachers.

292
00:25:30,520 --> 00:25:34,120
If the idea was to draw
attention to the Chechen cause,

293
00:25:34,120 --> 00:25:37,120
it was a hideous error of
judgement.

294
00:25:39,800 --> 00:25:44,560
The gunmen had herded most of
their hostages into the gymnasium.

295
00:25:48,880 --> 00:25:52,720
On the third day, Russian
troops stormed the building.

296
00:25:52,720 --> 00:25:59,040
In a chaos of gun fire and bombs,
334 hostages died.

297
00:25:59,040 --> 00:26:02,960
186 of them were children.

298
00:26:27,400 --> 00:26:31,960
Even when you've seen the
pictures and read about it,

299
00:26:31,960 --> 00:26:36,960
to come in here and actually
see the place is...

300
00:26:38,480 --> 00:26:40,760
It's completely heartbreaking.

301
00:26:50,360 --> 00:26:52,160
All these ruined lives.

302
00:27:08,960 --> 00:27:13,080
Writing over 150 years ago about
these struggles in the Caucasus,

303
00:27:13,080 --> 00:27:19,920
Tolstoy said, "Is it possible
that there is not room for
all men on this beautiful Earth?

304
00:27:19,920 --> 00:27:23,760
"Can it be that amidst
this enchanting nature,

305
00:27:23,760 --> 00:27:29,920
"feelings of hatred, vengeance
and a desire to exterminate
their fellow beings

306
00:27:29,920 --> 00:27:34,160
"can endure in the souls of men?"

307
00:27:34,160 --> 00:27:36,400
That was 150 years ago.

308
00:27:44,040 --> 00:27:48,240
We drove on across the apparently
endless steppe north of Beslan

309
00:27:48,240 --> 00:27:50,400
en route to the Caspian Sea.

310
00:28:01,240 --> 00:28:05,400
We've just crossed the border
into Daghestan

311
00:28:05,400 --> 00:28:10,600
and we're unloading from one vehicle
into another all our gear because,

312
00:28:10,600 --> 00:28:16,160
um, it's generally thought
deemed wiser for us to
rely on drivers in Daghestan

313
00:28:16,160 --> 00:28:20,200
who know the territory
and can make sure we don't get
into any unnecessary trouble.

314
00:28:20,200 --> 00:28:22,640
We're filming this in a
surreptitious way because

315
00:28:22,640 --> 00:28:25,080
we are concerned that the
police authorities here,

316
00:28:25,080 --> 00:28:27,480
if they know we're filming,
would stop us doing it.

317
00:28:27,480 --> 00:28:31,600
Although the republics of the
Russian Caucasus belong to the
Federation,

318
00:28:31,600 --> 00:28:34,960
they all have their own
borders and their own police

319
00:28:34,960 --> 00:28:37,200
who can be a touch unpredictable.

320
00:28:37,200 --> 00:28:40,840
Our contact in Daghestan
is more than a baggage handler.

321
00:28:40,840 --> 00:28:46,400
Khan is a clan leader
who carries real clout in
this sometimes lawless land.

322
00:29:03,360 --> 00:29:05,520
Our first stop is a curious anomaly,

323
00:29:05,520 --> 00:29:11,680
a village that's populated entirely
by Chechens but just inside
the Republic of Daghestan.

324
00:29:24,000 --> 00:29:26,440
Khan is an elder, a "starshii".

325
00:29:26,440 --> 00:29:28,440
So long, so long.

326
00:29:28,440 --> 00:29:30,360
He enjoys automatic respect.

327
00:29:34,240 --> 00:29:36,600
As I discovered the
history of this village,

328
00:29:36,600 --> 00:29:41,640
I began to realise why atrocities
like Beslan can still happen.

329
00:29:41,640 --> 00:29:43,880
HE SPEAKS RUSSIAN

330
00:29:45,880 --> 00:29:51,160
'I found some old men who
told me what happened to them
here in the Second World War.

331
00:29:51,160 --> 00:29:54,480
'The episode is indelibly
etched in their memory.

332
00:30:01,320 --> 00:30:05,480
'In the freezing winter of 1944,
Russian soldiers entered the village

333
00:30:05,480 --> 00:30:09,120
'and rounded up every
man, woman and child.

334
00:30:09,120 --> 00:30:14,000
'They were herded into cattle
trucks and shipped off
to Soviet Central Asia.'

335
00:30:14,000 --> 00:30:18,400
There were, there were...the guns.

336
00:30:18,400 --> 00:30:20,000
At gunpoint. Yeah.

337
00:30:22,480 --> 00:30:25,920
'Every Chechen,
the whole nation, was deported.

338
00:30:25,920 --> 00:30:29,080
'They had no food,
no water, no heating.

339
00:30:29,080 --> 00:30:32,920
'One in every five of them
died on the way.'

340
00:30:32,920 --> 00:30:38,760
When someone died there was no
equipment, nothing, to dig the grave

341
00:30:38,760 --> 00:30:45,320
and they found anywhere,
if they found wall,

342
00:30:45,320 --> 00:30:53,080
then they'd take out some
stones, put the dead body there
and then cover it by stones.

343
00:30:53,080 --> 00:30:58,000
'Stalin apparently thought
the Chechens were
collaborating with the Nazis.

344
00:30:58,000 --> 00:31:03,360
'For this alleged betrayal,
these old men, who were then
children, were raised in exile.

345
00:31:03,360 --> 00:31:05,560
'They dreamed of home.

346
00:31:05,560 --> 00:31:09,320
'Three years after Stalin's death,
they were reprieved

347
00:31:09,320 --> 00:31:12,600
'and they returned, but they've
never forgotten or forgiven,

348
00:31:12,600 --> 00:31:16,120
'we can be sure, nor will
their children or grandchildren.'

349
00:31:24,160 --> 00:31:28,720
Not far from the Chechen village,
we entered the flood plains
that border the river Terek.

350
00:31:28,720 --> 00:31:32,400
In the 19th century, the
Terek formed a natural frontier

351
00:31:32,400 --> 00:31:34,560
against the expanding
Russian Empire

352
00:31:34,560 --> 00:31:39,520
whose armies were driving south,
determined to conquer the Caucasus
once and for all.

353
00:31:46,240 --> 00:31:50,680
At that time, the Russian front was
spearheaded by a phalanx of shock
troops

354
00:31:50,680 --> 00:31:53,960
who were as famed as
they were feared - the Cossacks.

355
00:31:55,280 --> 00:31:58,120
THEY SING

356
00:31:59,280 --> 00:32:03,800
Today, I'm going fishing
with some of their descendants.

357
00:32:08,720 --> 00:32:12,320
In some parts of the country,
the Cossacks are a resurgent force,

358
00:32:12,320 --> 00:32:17,400
xenophobic thugs who like giving
Russia's minorities a rough time.

359
00:32:19,120 --> 00:32:24,760
But here in Daghestan, the Terek
Cossacks are themselves a minority,
and they behave accordingly.

360
00:32:39,600 --> 00:32:41,800
Placido Domingo of our time.

361
00:32:48,040 --> 00:32:53,400
What they're just saying that
when...when he's singing

362
00:32:53,400 --> 00:32:56,880
then Placido Domingo
can't compete with him.

363
00:32:59,240 --> 00:33:04,960
It was on this front that Tolstoy
fought alongside the Cossacks
and he came to admire them,

364
00:33:04,960 --> 00:33:08,680
not because they hated their enemies
in the mountains beyond the river

365
00:33:08,680 --> 00:33:11,360
but for their
courage in battle against them.

366
00:33:11,360 --> 00:33:13,240
You've got your gun, Petr.

367
00:33:14,800 --> 00:33:19,280
'But when he really liked was
another side of the
Cossack character.

368
00:33:19,280 --> 00:33:26,520
'Their simple life,
their love of the outdoors and their
glorious independence of spirit.'

369
00:33:27,800 --> 00:33:29,400
What have you got there?

370
00:33:34,400 --> 00:33:37,280
It's huge, can we
take it out and look?

371
00:33:37,280 --> 00:33:38,960
Can we take it out and look?

372
00:33:38,960 --> 00:33:41,520
'Sorry to say, even
Cossacks can be poachers.

373
00:33:41,520 --> 00:33:43,560
'The principle ingredients for ukha,

374
00:33:43,560 --> 00:33:47,400
Russia's famous fish soup, had
being caught illegally with nets.'

375
00:33:48,520 --> 00:33:50,040
Very alive.

376
00:33:53,000 --> 00:33:55,560
'I soon discovered that
our chef for the day

377
00:33:55,560 --> 00:34:00,520
'is not given to hiding his
feelings, nor is political
correctness his strong suit.'

378
00:34:02,640 --> 00:34:04,160
Nikolai. Nikolai.

379
00:34:05,800 --> 00:34:07,480
You enjoy doing this, yes?

380
00:34:08,440 --> 00:34:10,280
And you're a proud Cossack, yes?

381
00:34:10,280 --> 00:34:14,000
What is it to be a Cossack,
what makes a Cossack different?

382
00:34:18,680 --> 00:34:22,760
It means to be able to,
like, run your cars. Your...

383
00:34:22,200 --> 00:34:26,200
'My Cossack translator
is getting lost for words.'

384
00:34:27,400 --> 00:34:30,960
Do you have a big faith in
Russia, in Mother Russia?

385
00:34:31,720 --> 00:34:33,000
< Yeah, absolutely.

386
00:34:37,280 --> 00:34:39,800
He says when beer... The bear?

387
00:34:39,800 --> 00:34:43,640
.bear, the bear, wakes up, then
everything will be OK.

388
00:34:43,640 --> 00:34:48,480
Because the bear resembles
the Russia, the true Russia.

389
00:34:48,480 --> 00:34:50,800
Tell me what you think
is the true Russia.

390
00:34:59,880 --> 00:35:03,760
In a single phrase, like,
Russia is the Russian people.

391
00:35:03,760 --> 00:35:05,640
Spasiba.

392
00:35:05,640 --> 00:35:07,280
Very, very much.

393
00:35:07,280 --> 00:35:09,080
THEY LAUGH

394
00:35:14,360 --> 00:35:19,080
'While Nikolai gets on with his
cooking, his leader Petr goes
shooting.

395
00:35:33,200 --> 00:35:36,280
'Then we eat.

396
00:35:36,280 --> 00:35:38,840
'We drink.

397
00:35:41,040 --> 00:35:44,080
'And, inevitably, we sing.'

398
00:35:45,280 --> 00:35:47,720
THEY SING

399
00:36:00,280 --> 00:36:05,400
'It's many generations since their
forebears fought against the Islamic
tribes of the Caucasus,

400
00:36:05,400 --> 00:36:10,880
'but I suspect even now they're
nostalgic for that Holy
War against the infidels.'

401
00:36:14,280 --> 00:36:21,720
That war was fought in the mountains
and the centre of resistance
was here in Daghestan.

402
00:36:21,720 --> 00:36:26,880
For once, the disparate tribes
of the Caucasus were united.

403
00:36:26,880 --> 00:36:32,120
Their leader was Sheikh Shamil,
whose spirit still hovers
over the mountains.

404
00:36:32,120 --> 00:36:36,480
For more than two decades,
he outwitted the might
of the Russian Empire.

405
00:36:39,920 --> 00:36:43,640
But Shamil was outnumbered
and outgunned.

406
00:36:43,640 --> 00:36:47,120
His last stand was just
outside this village, Gunib.

407
00:36:49,520 --> 00:36:53,680
It is an extraordinary,
romantic story.

408
00:36:53,680 --> 00:36:56,680
Shamil on his white horse.

409
00:36:56,680 --> 00:37:00,720
25 years he leads the Caucasian
people in an epic struggle

410
00:37:00,720 --> 00:37:04,400
against the Russian invaders,
the Imperial Army,

411
00:37:04,400 --> 00:37:07,960
and gradually the Imperial Army
encircles him

412
00:37:07,960 --> 00:37:12,240
until he finds himself - we're now
some 6,000 feet up in
the mountains -

413
00:37:12,240 --> 00:37:19,760
he finds himself encircled,
the noose around his neck,
down to his last 400 men.

414
00:37:19,760 --> 00:37:23,800
And his family, his son
in particular, said,
"You've got to surrender."

415
00:37:23,800 --> 00:37:28,680
So he rode out down here with
his retinue on his white horse.

416
00:37:28,680 --> 00:37:32,640
All around him were Russian soldiers
and they started to jeer him

417
00:37:32,640 --> 00:37:35,040
and shout at him and
shout "hoorah, hoorah"

418
00:37:35,040 --> 00:37:39,560
and he went to turn back and said,
"If that's how it's going to be,
I won't surrender."

419
00:37:39,560 --> 00:37:43,520
The order came up then from the
Russian general to his troops,

420
00:37:43,520 --> 00:37:48,480
"Silence", and there was
absolute silence.

421
00:37:58,880 --> 00:38:03,680
Shamil's extraordinary feat
of resistance had made him
famous all across Europe.

422
00:38:08,080 --> 00:38:13,720
So great was his renown
that even the Czar felt obliged to
treat his prisoner with honour.

423
00:38:14,880 --> 00:38:20,680
And today he remains a
symbol of defiance in these
mountain passes and beyond.

424
00:38:26,520 --> 00:38:32,280
On our way down to the Caspian Sea,
Khan stopped off to show me
Daghestan's finest weekly market.

425
00:38:38,200 --> 00:38:40,080
It's quite a scene here, Khan.

426
00:38:40,080 --> 00:38:45,360
Yeah, this is the biggest
market in Daghestan. Amazing.

427
00:38:45,360 --> 00:38:49,120
'Walking through this open air
shopping mall, I began to appreciate

428
00:38:49,120 --> 00:38:53,120
'Shamil's astonishing achievement in
uniting the tribes of the Caucasus.

429
00:38:53,120 --> 00:38:56,320
'They must speak at least a dozen
languages in this market alone.

430
00:39:06,000 --> 00:39:11,400
'There are 34 clans in Daghestan
and even now blood feuds
and vendettas between them,

431
00:39:11,400 --> 00:39:15,080
'not to mention kidnappings,
tend to scare visitors away.'

432
00:39:19,160 --> 00:39:21,240
When we were planning
on coming here,

433
00:39:21,240 --> 00:39:23,840
there's a thing called a
Foreign Office Advisory,

434
00:39:23,840 --> 00:39:31,880
and we were told it's not safe
to go to Daghestan because of
robbery, kidnapping and even worse.

435
00:39:33,400 --> 00:39:39,240
Well, right now you are in the
most dangerous place in Daghestan!

436
00:39:39,240 --> 00:39:44,080
You can be kidnapped by the traders,

437
00:39:44,080 --> 00:39:49,960
by these ladies. Well... And they
business what they are doing is
the most dangerous business.

438
00:39:54,600 --> 00:39:57,240
'But Khan has no illusions.

439
00:39:57,240 --> 00:40:01,360
'He knows very well there are
Islamist insurgents hiding in
the mountains

440
00:40:01,360 --> 00:40:07,200
'and he also knows that
in this Muslim society, they
will always find some support.

441
00:40:07,200 --> 00:40:10,680
'He knows they're here
and he wants them out.'

442
00:40:12,400 --> 00:40:17,560
What is your attitude towards these
people, cos they still exist
underground, don't they?

443
00:40:17,560 --> 00:40:24,960
Yes, they still exist but the
tragic thing is that, um,

444
00:40:24,960 --> 00:40:31,000
they do not represent not
only any Daghestani village,

445
00:40:31,000 --> 00:40:34,120
they do not represent
any Daghestani hamlet.

446
00:40:34,120 --> 00:40:36,960
These people are out
of Daghestan society.

447
00:40:36,960 --> 00:40:41,480
You're a father, you've got
a family. Do you fear them?

448
00:40:41,480 --> 00:40:43,280
I'm afraid of them.

449
00:40:43,280 --> 00:40:51,320
My perception is that we should
treat them as ordinary criminals
not as a part of Daghestan society.

450
00:40:56,560 --> 00:41:01,200
In the distance, below the mountains
to the east, is the Caspian Sea.

451
00:41:06,440 --> 00:41:12,120
On its shores, the most
southerly and the oldest
city in Russia, Derbent.

452
00:41:18,800 --> 00:41:22,600
Derbent was first settled
at least 5,000 years ago.

453
00:41:24,840 --> 00:41:31,080
The great fortress which overlooks
the harbour was built by the
Persians a mere 15 centuries ago

454
00:41:31,080 --> 00:41:33,920
to protect the city from invasion
from the north

455
00:41:33,920 --> 00:41:38,240
but its strategic location made
it a magnet for the czars.

456
00:41:39,320 --> 00:41:43,120
Here we are in the oldest
city in Russia... That's right.

457
00:41:43,120 --> 00:41:48,120
..and somehow it hasn't been
ruined. How's that?

458
00:41:48,120 --> 00:41:52,480
In 561, they built
all these fortifications

459
00:41:52,480 --> 00:41:59,280
and these walls up to the mountains
goes approximately 70 miles.

460
00:41:59,280 --> 00:42:05,080
It is compared with the great
Chinese Wall, with Hadrian Wall,

461
00:42:05,080 --> 00:42:09,000
and there are three fortifications
and this is one of them.

462
00:42:11,200 --> 00:42:16,800
'But Derbent was above all a city of
traders and it survived
because the merchants

463
00:42:16,800 --> 00:42:21,560
'were ready to cut a deal with
almost anyone to keep the peace.'

464
00:42:21,560 --> 00:42:27,160
What they did was they
ceremonially gave the key of city

465
00:42:27,160 --> 00:42:32,720
and the historical manuscript called
the "History of Derbent"

466
00:42:32,720 --> 00:42:36,480
and they said that,
"You are winners,

467
00:42:36,480 --> 00:42:42,280
"this city belongs to you,"
and when Peter I came to Derbent...

468
00:42:42,280 --> 00:42:46,480
They gave him the keys. "Peter, we
welcome you, you can have the keys.

469
00:42:46,480 --> 00:42:49,960
"And you rule us". Yes.

470
00:42:49,960 --> 00:42:52,480
What does this tell us
about the people of Derbent?

471
00:42:52,480 --> 00:42:59,720
It tells that in some way they
came to philosophy that there is
no reason to fight against anyone.

472
00:42:59,720 --> 00:43:07,080
The reason is to keep peaceful life
and if someone want to rule us,

473
00:43:07,080 --> 00:43:09,920
let him do it but why war?

474
00:43:09,920 --> 00:43:13,880
And this is a very, you know,

475
00:43:13,880 --> 00:43:20,480
it is very different story
with this city comparing with
the story of Daghestan. Absolutely.

476
00:43:20,480 --> 00:43:22,880
MUEZZIN CALLS OUT

477
00:43:25,000 --> 00:43:30,440
'Today, after long years in which
the orthodox church and then the
communist state held sway,

478
00:43:30,440 --> 00:43:36,440
'Derbent is now free to
celebrate its origins as one
of Islam's most holy cities.'

479
00:43:36,440 --> 00:43:39,120
This is the famous mosque, yes?
Yeah.

480
00:43:39,120 --> 00:43:43,840
'Dzhuma mosque is the fourth
most important site in all Islam.'

481
00:43:43,840 --> 00:43:45,760
This mosque is...

482
00:43:45,760 --> 00:43:47,520
how old?

483
00:43:47,520 --> 00:43:50,520
It was built in the
early-8th century.

484
00:43:56,360 --> 00:44:02,280
It's in Persian on right side,
and on left side it is in Arabic.

485
00:44:02,280 --> 00:44:08,480
HE READS OUT
..Means just enter this mosque
with the belief.

486
00:44:08,480 --> 00:44:12,400
With belief. Can we go in?
Yes, please.

487
00:44:22,800 --> 00:44:24,400
Wow.

488
00:44:26,160 --> 00:44:29,200
It's very beautiful. Very simple.

489
00:44:30,640 --> 00:44:35,480
'In the Soviet period,
the mosque was turned into a prison
and later a museum.

490
00:44:35,480 --> 00:44:41,320
'Today, it thrives as a place
of worship for Sufi, Sunni
and Shia Muslims alike.'

491
00:44:43,120 --> 00:44:45,160
This is something very unusual.

492
00:44:45,160 --> 00:44:48,040
Praying together. Praying together.

493
00:44:48,610 --> 00:44:52,130
In prospect, this journey
across the largest country

494
00:44:52,130 --> 00:44:53,970
in the world was quite daunting

495
00:44:53,970 --> 00:44:57,330
but I feel now I understand a
little bit more about Russia,

496
00:44:57,330 --> 00:45:01,930
its diversity and its richness
and I've met some incredible people.

497
00:45:01,930 --> 00:45:04,410
Warm, friendly and welcoming.

498
00:45:04,410 --> 00:45:08,890
And that, plus more vodka than
I ever thought I'd consume,

499
00:45:08,890 --> 00:45:12,250
fuels my enthusiasm for
the next stage.

500
00:45:25,210 --> 00:45:28,250
Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd.

501
00:45:28,250 --> 00:45:31,290
E-mail subtitling@bbc.co.uk