1 00:00:02,455 --> 00:00:05,246 I've always been fascinated by the River Thames. 2 00:00:05,246 --> 00:00:09,246 It runs right through the place I was born, London. 3 00:00:09,246 --> 00:00:12,126 Where my family have lived for 300 years. 4 00:00:14,575 --> 00:00:17,726 Now, I'm going to get to know it even more intimately, 5 00:00:17,726 --> 00:00:23,126 to find out what makes this one of the greatest rivers in the world. 6 00:00:23,126 --> 00:00:26,886 I'm walking the Thames path, discovering how we tame the river. 7 00:00:26,886 --> 00:00:28,525 One, two, three. Ugh. 8 00:00:28,525 --> 00:00:29,936 I did it! 9 00:00:31,325 --> 00:00:34,056 And that's it. Only another eight to go. 10 00:00:34,056 --> 00:00:38,046 And I'm meeting the people whose lives revolve around the Thames. 11 00:00:38,046 --> 00:00:40,586 We can actually trace ourselves as fishermen 12 00:00:40,586 --> 00:00:43,836 and ferrymen from 1257. Oh, you're kidding? 13 00:00:43,836 --> 00:00:47,026 This is what the Royal Waterman used to do in Henry Vlll's time, 14 00:00:47,026 --> 00:00:50,866 row their king. Are you about ready for me, yeah? Yeah. 15 00:00:50,866 --> 00:00:53,946 Oh, God, I'm going into the side again. That's my toast. 16 00:00:53,946 --> 00:00:54,936 Oh. 17 00:01:04,746 --> 00:01:07,356 You've caught me about a third of the way through 18 00:01:07,356 --> 00:01:09,826 my Thames path journey. 19 00:01:09,826 --> 00:01:12,146 Abingdon is just up ahead. 20 00:01:12,146 --> 00:01:15,916 Now, I'm going to be looking at the midsection of the Thames 21 00:01:15,916 --> 00:01:18,116 which, for the last hundred years or so, 22 00:01:18,116 --> 00:01:22,376 has been most famous for boating and messing about in the river. 23 00:01:24,956 --> 00:01:27,996 From here, I'll follow the river as it winds its way 24 00:01:27,996 --> 00:01:31,666 through the beautiful Thames Valley, stopping off at Henley-on-Thames 25 00:01:31,666 --> 00:01:34,266 and then on towards the palace at Hampton Court, 26 00:01:34,266 --> 00:01:36,866 a distance of around 100 miles. 27 00:01:43,146 --> 00:01:45,816 I'm just approaching Abingdon Lock, 28 00:01:45,816 --> 00:01:48,146 and you see how still and flat 29 00:01:48,146 --> 00:01:51,796 and essentially deep the Thames appears to be, 30 00:01:51,796 --> 00:01:53,996 well, what I hadn't fully reafised 31 00:01:53,996 --> 00:01:58,346 was that locks like this don't just help the boats go to-and-fro, 32 00:01:58,346 --> 00:02:01,305 but they also manage the level of the water 33 00:02:01,305 --> 00:02:04,425 all the way along the whole length of the Thames. 34 00:02:07,666 --> 00:02:11,916 Before there were locks and weirs to partially dam the river, 35 00:02:11,916 --> 00:02:15,106 the Thames hundreds of years ago would have been far too shallow 36 00:02:15,106 --> 00:02:17,515 for all but the smallest of boats. 37 00:02:19,716 --> 00:02:24,435 Today, managing water levels falls to the Environment Agency. 38 00:02:24,435 --> 00:02:25,666 This morning, 39 00:02:25,666 --> 00:02:28,276 I've got an appointment with lock keeper Richard Hawkins... 40 00:02:28,276 --> 00:02:29,946 Hello, chap, nice to see you. 41 00:02:29,946 --> 00:02:31,956 ...to learn the ropes. 42 00:02:31,956 --> 00:02:34,286 Round there. You've got it, mate. Lovely job. 43 00:02:34,286 --> 00:02:35,505 Row your boats, 44 00:02:35,505 --> 00:02:37,666 and if you want to grab a back rope off this gentleman here. 45 00:02:37,666 --> 00:02:39,106 I'm grabbing your back rope. 46 00:02:40,756 --> 00:02:42,146 Thank you very much. 47 00:02:42,146 --> 00:02:43,635 Does that go round there? 48 00:02:43,635 --> 00:02:45,435 Yeah, we'lljust take half a turn around there 49 00:02:45,435 --> 00:02:47,066 and pass it back to him. 50 00:02:47,066 --> 00:02:49,276 So how does this work? Do I turn this handle? 51 00:02:49,276 --> 00:02:51,466 No, unfortunately not, it's a bit too warm for that. 52 00:02:51,466 --> 00:02:53,676 We are going to cheat and use the buttons instead. Oh! 53 00:02:53,676 --> 00:02:56,596 It's controlled electronically. Yeah, so just push that one in. Now? 54 00:02:56,596 --> 00:02:59,635 Yeah, go for it, hold them in nice and tight. Here we go. 55 00:02:59,635 --> 00:03:02,546 Closing the gates! Keep your thumb on him, sorry. Oh, all right. 56 00:03:02,546 --> 00:03:04,826 Not closing the gates, closing the gates now. 57 00:03:04,826 --> 00:03:06,456 Now we're closing the gates. 58 00:03:06,456 --> 00:03:08,866 Consummate professionals, see? 59 00:03:08,866 --> 00:03:11,956 And we'lljust go all the way until you see them close bang together, 60 00:03:11,956 --> 00:03:14,826 and that will make them mitre together nicely. 61 00:03:14,826 --> 00:03:17,846 Once the gates are closed at each end of the chamber, 62 00:03:17,846 --> 00:03:19,486 or pound as it's known, 63 00:03:19,486 --> 00:03:22,846 it can be filled or emptied to match the water level 64 00:03:22,846 --> 00:03:25,816 in the direction the boat wants to travel. 65 00:03:26,886 --> 00:03:28,325 OK, Frank, open them up, mate. 66 00:03:29,445 --> 00:03:31,616 OK, my love. 67 00:03:31,616 --> 00:03:32,616 There you go. 68 00:03:34,026 --> 00:03:37,096 And you've got locks like this all the way down the Thames? 69 00:03:37,096 --> 00:03:39,535 Yeah, yeah. There's 45 locks on the Thames, 70 00:03:39,535 --> 00:03:41,256 plus one extra one on the tidal Thames, 71 00:03:41,256 --> 00:03:42,806 and essentially what they do is, 72 00:03:42,806 --> 00:03:44,686 if you imagine before all the locks were built, 73 00:03:44,686 --> 00:03:45,896 the river ran its own course. 74 00:03:45,896 --> 00:03:47,816 It was like, almost like a slippery slope, 75 00:03:47,816 --> 00:03:50,936 and putting locks in just turns into a nice gentle staircase. 76 00:03:50,936 --> 00:03:52,455 So we've sort of gentrified it in a way, 77 00:03:52,455 --> 00:03:54,766 and made it slightly less dangerous. 78 00:03:54,766 --> 00:03:56,896 Come and see us again. Bye-bye now. See you later. 79 00:03:58,846 --> 00:04:01,545 How many boats do you get going through here on a busy clay? 80 00:04:01,545 --> 00:04:04,655 If we said, you know, August would be our busiest, busiest month. 81 00:04:04,655 --> 00:04:07,246 We get about 3,000 boats in August alone. 82 00:04:07,246 --> 00:04:09,465 So on a weekday, about 100. 83 00:04:09,465 --> 00:04:12,655 Weekends, 150, maybe a little bit more. So it's nonstop really, 84 00:04:12,655 --> 00:04:15,136 and we wouldn't be just putting one boat in the lock like that, 85 00:04:15,136 --> 00:04:16,696 we'd be packing four or five in, 86 00:04:16,696 --> 00:04:18,616 all different shapes and sizes, 87 00:04:18,616 --> 00:04:21,356 and that's part of the sort of diplomacy of being lock keeper, 88 00:04:21,356 --> 00:04:23,996 really, is keeping all the different river users happy. 89 00:04:23,996 --> 00:04:25,466 So we try our best. 90 00:04:26,906 --> 00:04:30,556 Before modern pound locks like this one were introduced, 91 00:04:30,556 --> 00:04:33,476 travelling up and down the river was far more risky, 92 00:04:33,476 --> 00:04:36,156 and involved the use of flash locks. 93 00:04:36,156 --> 00:04:39,106 There was one here at Abingdon in the 17th century, 94 00:04:39,106 --> 00:04:42,826 which was simply a series of wooden boards that held the water back, 95 00:04:42,826 --> 00:04:44,846 but which could be removed quickly, 96 00:04:44,846 --> 00:04:49,026 allowing boats to ride the resulting flash, or cascade of water. 97 00:04:53,826 --> 00:04:56,826 This Victorian weir, which is still in use today, 98 00:04:56,826 --> 00:05:01,156 uses large panels to hold water back and gives us at least some idea 99 00:05:01,156 --> 00:05:03,906 of what it must have been like for those early 100 00:05:03,906 --> 00:05:05,946 and very brave river voyageurs. 101 00:05:05,946 --> 00:05:09,176 So these are like the old boards, only these are made of metal. 102 00:05:09,176 --> 00:05:11,545 Exactly the same principle, yeah. 103 00:05:11,545 --> 00:05:13,696 What we're doing is, we've got a removel sections, 104 00:05:13,696 --> 00:05:15,136 at the moment it's raised, 105 00:05:15,136 --> 00:05:17,846 so if you can imagine that this was an old-style flash lock, 106 00:05:17,846 --> 00:05:19,545 the opening would be slightly bigger, 107 00:05:19,545 --> 00:05:21,696 cos you might be struggle to fit a boat through here, 108 00:05:21,696 --> 00:05:23,986 but it's the very same idea. 109 00:05:23,986 --> 00:05:27,265 They'd be board up on the opposite, side ready to come down, 110 00:05:27,265 --> 00:05:28,826 I'd lift this up... 111 00:05:28,826 --> 00:05:30,325 And then this would happen. 112 00:05:30,325 --> 00:05:31,956 They would go down through there. 113 00:05:31,956 --> 00:05:33,876 So when these boards were lifted, 114 00:05:33,876 --> 00:05:36,086 you'd get all of this wild water, wouldn't you? 115 00:05:36,086 --> 00:05:38,315 Exactly, yeah, as you can see. It's a lot of turbulence, 116 00:05:38,315 --> 00:05:40,236 a lot of noise, so quite disconcerting. 117 00:05:40,236 --> 00:05:42,195 And would the boats come down on this? 118 00:05:42,195 --> 00:05:44,515 Yeah, they would, they would come on through on what we call... 119 00:05:44,515 --> 00:05:46,395 This is the flash of water they come down through. 120 00:05:46,395 --> 00:05:49,006 It would've been chaos, wouldn't it? It would, it would. 121 00:05:49,006 --> 00:05:52,886 Goring flash weir in the 16th century, a passenger boat sunk 122 00:05:52,886 --> 00:05:54,606 and it was nearly 60 people killed. 123 00:05:56,826 --> 00:05:59,036 To demonstrate the power of the river, 124 00:05:59,036 --> 00:06:02,476 Richard has winched open one of the heavy iron boards, 125 00:06:02,476 --> 00:06:05,435 but damning the river again is a lot cruder, 126 00:06:05,435 --> 00:06:08,356 a lot more fun, and involves a large mallet. 127 00:06:09,746 --> 00:06:11,246 One, two, three. 128 00:06:11,246 --> 00:06:12,236 Ugh. 129 00:06:13,445 --> 00:06:19,236 I did it! just like that, nicely done! Listen, listen, listen. 130 00:06:19,236 --> 00:06:21,966 Its silence, isn't it? It's eerily silent, isn't it? 131 00:06:21,966 --> 00:06:23,445 That is so effective. 132 00:06:24,626 --> 00:06:26,385 I bet you're glad you have me here. Yeah. 133 00:06:26,385 --> 00:06:27,395 HE LAUGHS 134 00:06:29,596 --> 00:06:31,515 Controlling the water level at weirs 135 00:06:31,515 --> 00:06:34,916 is part of the job description for lock keepers like Richard, 136 00:06:34,916 --> 00:06:36,556 and now I've dammed the river, 137 00:06:36,556 --> 00:06:39,636 water needs to be released elsewhere to stop it flooding. 138 00:06:43,305 --> 00:06:45,606 Go make some tea during this bit. 139 00:06:49,195 --> 00:06:50,826 A little bit more, keep going. 140 00:06:52,236 --> 00:06:53,836 Perfect. Lovely stuff. 141 00:06:55,405 --> 00:06:56,916 And that's it. 142 00:06:56,916 --> 00:06:58,166 Only another eight to go. 143 00:07:00,346 --> 00:07:03,676 And with that, I make my excuses and a hasty retreat. 144 00:07:09,275 --> 00:07:11,606 Just past the lock, the town of Abingdon 145 00:07:11,606 --> 00:07:14,676 is certainly worth a detour off the river. 146 00:07:14,676 --> 00:07:18,445 Its claims to be the oldest continuously occupied town in Britain. 147 00:07:21,036 --> 00:07:24,076 In the back streets, you can find the remains of an abbey 148 00:07:24,076 --> 00:07:27,746 that was built by Benedictine monks 1,300 years ago. 149 00:07:29,616 --> 00:07:33,846 Once upon a time, this was the sixth most powerful abbey 150 00:07:33,846 --> 00:07:37,576 in the whole country. A massive enterprise. 151 00:07:37,576 --> 00:07:42,646 Now, all that's left is this rather elegant looking building here. 152 00:07:42,646 --> 00:07:46,266 It looks like someone's fairly posh house, doesn't it? 153 00:07:46,266 --> 00:07:50,986 The building was most probably used to accommodate visiting dignitaries. 154 00:07:50,986 --> 00:07:52,576 The most vivid evidence 155 00:07:52,576 --> 00:07:56,746 of how glorious this place would once have been is this. 156 00:07:58,266 --> 00:08:03,626 It's called the Long Gallery now, and was built around about 1450. 157 00:08:03,626 --> 00:08:07,376 Although, initially, it wouldn't have been one long room, 158 00:08:07,376 --> 00:08:09,976 it would've been divided into three. 159 00:08:09,976 --> 00:08:13,455 Look, underneath this beam, you can see the slots 160 00:08:13,455 --> 00:08:16,266 where one of the partition walls would've been, 161 00:08:16,266 --> 00:08:19,786 and there's loads of slots all the way along here, 162 00:08:19,786 --> 00:08:22,906 because this would have been a corridor 163 00:08:22,906 --> 00:08:27,335 along which people could ambulate and look out at that amazing view. 164 00:08:30,066 --> 00:08:32,256 Probably the best indicator 165 00:08:32,256 --> 00:08:37,146 of how fantastic the place would have originally looked is that. 166 00:08:37,146 --> 00:08:41,976 Nobody seems to know quite how old that wall painting is, 167 00:08:41,976 --> 00:08:44,476 but it does look medieval, doesn't it? 168 00:08:44,476 --> 00:08:48,816 And imagine this whole room was covered in paintings, 169 00:08:48,816 --> 00:08:52,956 which originally would've looked like that. Pretty stunning. 170 00:08:59,376 --> 00:09:00,706 On a day like today, 171 00:09:00,706 --> 00:09:04,545 Abingdon is such a beautiful, quiet, tranquil, place, 172 00:09:04,545 --> 00:09:08,576 but 300 years ago, it would have been very different around here. 173 00:09:08,576 --> 00:09:11,095 The wharfs were all along here, 174 00:09:11,095 --> 00:09:15,545 this was a place about buying, selling, commerce, industry, 175 00:09:15,545 --> 00:09:18,726 the boats would've been coming in and out all the time. 176 00:09:18,726 --> 00:09:20,766 The noise would've been incredible. 177 00:09:20,766 --> 00:09:25,766 The stink would have been awful from the manufacturer of candles, 178 00:09:25,766 --> 00:09:29,636 from the leather tanning, from the brewing. Talking of which, 179 00:09:29,636 --> 00:09:33,056 there were about 50 pubs around here at that time. 180 00:09:33,056 --> 00:09:37,275 So in order to reflect on what the people of Abingdon 181 00:09:37,275 --> 00:09:39,486 used to do, I'm going to going for quick one. 182 00:09:40,556 --> 00:09:42,046 I'll see you back on the river. 183 00:09:44,075 --> 00:09:45,256 Coming UP--- 184 00:09:45,256 --> 00:09:48,556 ...how the Victorians fell in love with the Thames... 185 00:09:48,556 --> 00:09:50,996 Whoa, yeah. You really feel the wind kicking, don't you? 186 00:09:50,996 --> 00:09:52,616 Yeah, that's it. 187 00:09:52,616 --> 00:09:54,486 ...and keeping the river clean. 188 00:09:54,486 --> 00:09:56,636 So that is raw sewage. 189 00:09:56,636 --> 00:09:58,366 Things get a bit messy. 190 00:10:01,195 --> 00:10:02,486 It's a bit salty. 191 00:10:14,445 --> 00:10:16,365 My Thames path walk 192 00:10:16,365 --> 00:10:19,206 has brought me to the almost picture-perfect village 193 00:10:19,206 --> 00:10:21,595 of Clifton Hampden in the heart of Oxfordshire. 194 00:10:23,706 --> 00:10:26,826 It's long been renowned for its chocolate box charm, 195 00:10:26,826 --> 00:10:30,236 but almost demands that you linger for a while on the river. 196 00:10:35,106 --> 00:10:36,816 It's great just sitting on the bank 197 00:10:36,816 --> 00:10:39,056 watching the fish jump up to catch the flies. 198 00:10:45,016 --> 00:10:49,255 This is the exact opposite of how this place would've been 199 00:10:49,255 --> 00:10:53,495 when the Thames was the main commercial route out of London. 200 00:10:53,495 --> 00:10:58,096 There were 2,500 of those working the Thames in those clays, 201 00:10:58,096 --> 00:11:01,806 a steady stream of them coming up towards Lechlade, 202 00:11:01,806 --> 00:11:05,676 then turning onto the canal towards Bristol. 203 00:11:05,676 --> 00:11:09,575 Then, boof. Almost overnight the railways came, 204 00:11:09,575 --> 00:11:14,766 and the river ceased to be the most viable way of transporting goods. 205 00:11:14,766 --> 00:11:17,216 And what filled that gap? 206 00:11:17,216 --> 00:11:20,656 Leisure boating. The Victorians loved it. 207 00:11:22,406 --> 00:11:25,455 By the 19th century, for middle-class Victorians, 208 00:11:25,455 --> 00:11:27,736 going upriver became the thing to do. 209 00:11:29,806 --> 00:11:33,595 They put on their finest clothes, dresses and hats for the ladies, 210 00:11:33,595 --> 00:11:37,036 blazers and flannels for the men, and take to the water. 211 00:11:43,316 --> 00:11:46,626 The more adventurous would think nothing of rowing two or three clays 212 00:11:46,626 --> 00:11:48,826 upstream for a little break, 213 00:11:48,826 --> 00:11:52,116 particularly if they had one of those. 214 00:11:52,116 --> 00:11:55,186 A skiff. I might just give it a go myself. 215 00:11:59,595 --> 00:12:04,416 I'd arranged to get on the river with Tom Balm in his antique skiff. 216 00:12:04,416 --> 00:12:07,316 Hi, Tom. Hello. Hi, Tony. 217 00:12:07,316 --> 00:12:09,826 He's something of a classic Thames enthusiast, 218 00:12:09,826 --> 00:12:13,556 and rents out skiffs like this to people who want to sample the life 219 00:12:13,556 --> 00:12:15,446 of a Victorian boater. 220 00:12:17,756 --> 00:12:20,036 How long have there been skiffs around for? 221 00:12:20,036 --> 00:12:23,265 I would say the 15th century, 16th century, 222 00:12:23,265 --> 00:12:26,595 there's been skiffs around. What were they used for then? 223 00:12:26,595 --> 00:12:29,275 They would have been commercial craft 224 00:12:29,275 --> 00:12:32,436 for the purposes of ferrying their customers, 225 00:12:32,436 --> 00:12:35,866 due to the lack of bridges that were being built back then. 226 00:12:35,866 --> 00:12:38,076 You wouldn't have been able to have done much on them, 227 00:12:38,076 --> 00:12:39,906 they wouldn't have been goods vessels, would they? 228 00:12:39,906 --> 00:12:42,946 They wouldn't have been heavy goods, no. People passenging. 229 00:12:42,946 --> 00:12:44,626 Yeah. Yeah. 230 00:12:44,626 --> 00:12:48,236 It was the versatility of the skiff that led to its popularity 231 00:12:48,236 --> 00:12:51,036 during the leisure boom of the 1880s. 232 00:12:51,036 --> 00:12:53,275 Thousands were built as rental boats. 233 00:12:53,275 --> 00:12:55,436 They came in one or two oar versions. 234 00:12:57,636 --> 00:12:59,595 And there was an option of adding a sail, 235 00:12:59,595 --> 00:13:02,966 so you could make good headway on an escape from London. 236 00:13:02,966 --> 00:13:05,345 So are you going to put the sail up? Yeah. 237 00:13:05,345 --> 00:13:08,236 Let's hope we get the wind. We've got the sculls here, too. 238 00:13:08,236 --> 00:13:11,265 Get us back. Reasonable progress. Whoa! 239 00:13:11,265 --> 00:13:12,836 \ Well saved. I 240 00:13:12,836 --> 00:13:15,706 Get it pulled up right the way to the top. 241 00:13:15,706 --> 00:13:17,475 Reminds me of a little Thames barge. 242 00:13:17,475 --> 00:13:19,786 And we are making gentle progress there, I believe. 243 00:13:19,786 --> 00:13:22,786 Pull on that rope. Yep. Good pull. 244 00:13:22,786 --> 00:13:24,706 You can feel the power in your hands, 245 00:13:24,706 --> 00:13:26,776 the power of the wind. 246 00:13:26,776 --> 00:13:29,496 Whoa, yeah, you really feel the wind kicking, can't you? 247 00:13:29,496 --> 00:13:30,626 Yeah, that's it. 248 00:13:31,706 --> 00:13:33,395 A nice bit of pace. 249 00:13:37,405 --> 00:13:39,716 I love that solitary buzzard up there. 250 00:13:47,275 --> 00:13:49,475 Yeah, you can really imagine, can't you, 251 00:13:49,475 --> 00:13:52,066 being Victorian, taking three clays off. 252 00:13:52,066 --> 00:13:53,676 Leaving work on Friday afternoon, 253 00:13:53,676 --> 00:13:56,896 getting back after lunch on the Monday, possibly. 254 00:14:00,046 --> 00:14:03,176 It became popular to camp on trips upriver. 255 00:14:03,176 --> 00:14:04,946 There was even a version of a skiff 256 00:14:04,946 --> 00:14:07,215 that came complete with its own tent, 257 00:14:07,215 --> 00:14:09,496 and which Tom is keen to demonstrate 258 00:14:09,496 --> 00:14:13,325 as a viable option for accommodation this evening. 259 00:14:13,325 --> 00:14:17,896 So four iron hoops, with a complete tent. 260 00:14:17,896 --> 00:14:20,205 People really would sleep overnight in one? 261 00:14:20,205 --> 00:14:24,205 Yeah, absolutely. Yep, entire families would sleep on here. 262 00:14:24,205 --> 00:14:26,976 That's ridiculous. Yeah. Yep. 263 00:14:26,976 --> 00:14:30,056 You don't really need anything else, you've got your boat. 264 00:14:30,056 --> 00:14:32,255 OK. That's it. 265 00:14:32,255 --> 00:14:35,205 And then it's just draped over the top. 266 00:14:35,205 --> 00:14:36,936 You could say that in a way, 267 00:14:36,936 --> 00:14:39,766 this was the VW camper van of its day. 268 00:14:39,766 --> 00:14:44,335 Some savvy skiff rental companies even offered a collection service, 269 00:14:44,335 --> 00:14:47,145 so when you'd had enough, you could simply dump the boat, 270 00:14:47,145 --> 00:14:49,826 and make your way back to London by train. 271 00:14:49,826 --> 00:14:52,196 Hey! 272 00:14:52,196 --> 00:14:56,385 Oh, actually, that took a remarkably short time, didn't it? 273 00:14:56,385 --> 00:14:58,576 I beg your pardon? I said...! 274 00:14:58,576 --> 00:15:00,486 THEY LAUGH 275 00:15:00,486 --> 00:15:02,970 ...it took a remarkably short time, actually, didn't it? 276 00:15:02,970 --> 00:15:04,860 They are quick. Yeah. 277 00:15:04,860 --> 00:15:07,029 Where did they sleep? They were a pleasure. 278 00:15:07,029 --> 00:15:11,539 They would have slept underneath the canvas. 279 00:15:13,539 --> 00:15:16,548 And then we have here our beds. 280 00:15:16,548 --> 00:15:19,909 So that's how they would've slept? That's how they would've slept. Yep. 281 00:15:19,909 --> 00:15:22,108 Just there like that. Absolutely. 282 00:15:22,108 --> 00:15:25,108 That looks really comfortable, Tom. 283 00:15:25,108 --> 00:15:27,389 Let me demonstrate what else they might have done, 284 00:15:27,389 --> 00:15:29,949 because sometimes they would park the skiff like that, 285 00:15:29,949 --> 00:15:34,279 and picked up their bag and gone to the pub for the night. 286 00:15:35,589 --> 00:15:38,539 Cheers mate. Very good. Thanks so much. 287 00:15:38,539 --> 00:15:39,989 Night-night. 288 00:15:45,849 --> 00:15:49,649 The Thames has long been an important water source, 289 00:15:49,649 --> 00:15:53,809 supplying Oxford, Swindon, and 80% of tap water in London. 290 00:15:57,179 --> 00:16:02,289 Every day, 5 million tonnes of water move along the Thames 291 00:16:02,289 --> 00:16:03,969 as it approaches London. 292 00:16:05,889 --> 00:16:08,448 Of course, it's treated before we drink it, 293 00:16:08,448 --> 00:16:10,889 and treated after we drink it... 294 00:16:10,889 --> 00:16:15,128 ...which is where I'm taking a short detour off the river at Reading, 295 00:16:15,128 --> 00:16:19,529 to find out what goes on at Thames Water's most advanced sewage plant. 296 00:16:20,759 --> 00:16:22,809 Now, I know this kind of detour 297 00:16:22,809 --> 00:16:27,338 might seem a bit weird for a Thames walker, but when I heard that 298 00:16:27,338 --> 00:16:31,198 before water from the upper Thames reaches London 299 00:16:31,198 --> 00:16:33,809 it's been recycled eight times, 300 00:16:33,809 --> 00:16:36,969 I had to find out the dirty facts for myself. 301 00:16:38,849 --> 00:16:42,479 Less than 200 years ago, the answer for dealing with sewage 302 00:16:42,479 --> 00:16:47,099 for many riverside towns was simply to deposit it in the river, 303 00:16:47,099 --> 00:16:49,208 with disastrous consequences. 304 00:16:50,559 --> 00:16:52,128 In London, by the 1850s, 305 00:16:52,128 --> 00:16:55,328 as these satirical depictions of the day show, 306 00:16:55,328 --> 00:16:57,839 the Thames was a filthy place. 307 00:16:57,839 --> 00:17:02,089 Indeed, so full of raw sewage, it was quite literally poison, 308 00:17:02,089 --> 00:17:05,889 and outbreaks of cholera and typhoid weren't uncommon. 309 00:17:06,919 --> 00:17:09,899 These clays, modern processing plants like this one 310 00:17:09,899 --> 00:17:13,099 that services Reading, can recycle raw sewage 311 00:17:13,099 --> 00:17:17,289 and return clean water to the environment in less than 24 hours. 312 00:17:17,289 --> 00:17:18,769 Cheers, mate. 313 00:17:18,769 --> 00:17:22,739 The reason I'm getting all suited-and-booted up is cos Barry here 314 00:17:22,739 --> 00:17:25,208 is going to chuck me in at the deep-end in a minute. 315 00:17:25,208 --> 00:17:27,419 I certainly am. Do you want to come this way, Tony, 316 00:17:27,419 --> 00:17:30,489 and I'll show you where it all comes in. Yeah, yeah. 317 00:17:30,489 --> 00:17:32,179 This is the start of the process. 318 00:17:33,769 --> 00:17:37,999 So that is raw sewage. That is raw sewage. 319 00:17:37,999 --> 00:17:43,619 An astounding 175 million litres pass through here every day. 320 00:17:43,619 --> 00:17:46,509 It doesn't actually stink as bad as you think it would, does it? 321 00:17:46,509 --> 00:17:49,099 It doesn't. Water, it very rarely smells. 322 00:17:49,099 --> 00:17:52,258 But there are still some dirty jobs that need manual handling, 323 00:17:52,258 --> 00:17:54,289 which is where I come in, 324 00:17:54,289 --> 00:17:57,559 removing foreign objects from the inlet screens. 325 00:17:57,559 --> 00:18:01,258 And you can see that's all your rags and plastics and... 326 00:18:01,258 --> 00:18:03,929 That's just stuff that's come through the sewer, 327 00:18:03,929 --> 00:18:06,138 but you can't process any other way? 328 00:18:06,138 --> 00:18:08,599 There's no way that that will dissolve, 329 00:18:08,599 --> 00:18:12,839 we want to get as much rag and fat and paper and grit out of it 330 00:18:12,839 --> 00:18:14,118 as humanly possible. 331 00:18:14,118 --> 00:18:15,729 I can see a few wet wipes there. 332 00:18:15,729 --> 00:18:17,238 333 00:18:17,238 --> 00:18:19,629 I believe this is yours. Oh, God... 334 00:18:19,629 --> 00:18:22,909 It's part of your training, just hook it off. 335 00:18:22,909 --> 00:18:24,079 TONY GROANS 336 00:18:24,079 --> 00:18:26,349 There we go. Lovely stuff. 337 00:18:28,079 --> 00:18:30,719 They eat a lot of sweetcorn in Reading, don't they? 338 00:18:30,719 --> 00:18:34,039 They certainly do. We like to be healthy. Yeah. 339 00:18:34,039 --> 00:18:38,328 Picking through the private deposits of 220,000 Reading residents 340 00:18:38,328 --> 00:18:40,639 isn't exactly the best job in the world... 341 00:18:40,639 --> 00:18:43,099 Just turn the handle and turn it on. 342 00:18:43,099 --> 00:18:45,819 ...but it needs doing twice a week across eight screens. 343 00:18:52,619 --> 00:18:54,049 It's a bit salty. 344 00:18:59,899 --> 00:19:01,739 The next stage is automated. 345 00:19:01,739 --> 00:19:06,208 The sewage is separated into number ones and number twos. 346 00:19:06,208 --> 00:19:09,205 Liquids are filtered in the settlement ponds, 347 00:19:09,205 --> 00:19:12,529 where bacteria naturally neutralise impurities. 348 00:19:13,711 --> 00:19:15,831 The solids are dealt with by other means. 349 00:19:17,350 --> 00:19:20,340 Right, if you want to know what happens to the poo, 350 00:19:20,340 --> 00:19:25,411 in here, it's mixed up with a thickener... 351 00:19:25,411 --> 00:19:29,491 ...and then it's taken along here... 352 00:19:29,491 --> 00:19:35,130 ...where it's ploughed, and a lot of the water is taken out of it, 353 00:19:35,130 --> 00:19:39,681 so that by the time it gets to here... 354 00:19:41,091 --> 00:19:43,000 ...it's really quite dry. 355 00:19:44,250 --> 00:19:47,541 I'm really glad I shared that with you. 356 00:19:47,541 --> 00:19:50,330 And the resulting sludge is then pasteurized 357 00:19:50,330 --> 00:19:52,361 inside giant digesters, 358 00:19:52,361 --> 00:19:55,411 where the methane it produces is used to generate 359 00:19:55,411 --> 00:19:58,631 45% of the plant's electricity needs. 360 00:19:58,631 --> 00:20:03,201 The final residue is recycled for use in agriculture. 361 00:20:03,201 --> 00:20:05,971 And the water? Well, after just 18 hours, 362 00:20:05,971 --> 00:20:10,701 those former household flushes are released into the river Kennett, 363 00:20:10,701 --> 00:20:14,411 a nearby tributary of the Thames. That looks pretty clean, doesn't it? 364 00:20:14,411 --> 00:20:17,171 It does, shall we go and take a sample? See how clean it is? 365 00:20:17,171 --> 00:20:21,071 At this stage, it's not safe to drink. 366 00:20:21,071 --> 00:20:23,661 It will be treated again before it comes through your tap, 367 00:20:23,661 --> 00:20:25,791 but it's definitely clear. 368 00:20:27,511 --> 00:20:30,270 So there you are, then, that will go into the river Kennett, 369 00:20:30,270 --> 00:20:31,741 and on into the Thames 370 00:20:31,741 --> 00:20:35,741 where it'll continue to be treated naturally by the sun 371 00:20:35,741 --> 00:20:38,991 and microbes and water plants. 372 00:20:38,991 --> 00:20:42,671 Until, eventually, one day it will be used to clean the car 373 00:20:42,671 --> 00:20:44,591 or someone will drink it, 374 00:20:44,591 --> 00:20:47,921 and it will find its way back here again. 375 00:20:47,921 --> 00:20:50,150 And as for the human waste, 376 00:20:50,150 --> 00:20:53,591 well, that has been turned into sludge cake, 377 00:20:53,591 --> 00:20:55,561 which the farmer will use. 378 00:20:57,880 --> 00:20:59,271 Coming UP--- 379 00:20:59,295 --> 00:21:01,055 ...in the rowing town of Henley... 380 00:21:01,055 --> 00:21:02,344 Race pace! 381 00:21:02,344 --> 00:21:05,825 ...I find out what it takes to be part of an elite team... 382 00:21:06,985 --> 00:21:08,895 I think I overruddered there. 383 00:21:08,895 --> 00:21:12,285 ...and I Captain a boat that's much more my style. 384 00:21:12,285 --> 00:21:13,905 This is lovely, isn't it? 385 00:21:13,905 --> 00:21:19,014 I've already got the elbow out the window, one-handed driving. 386 00:21:19,014 --> 00:21:21,144 I've only been driving it for 30 seconds. 387 00:21:29,064 --> 00:21:33,735 I'm walking the Thames from source to sea, following the Thames path, 388 00:21:33,735 --> 00:21:35,685 Europe's longest river sidewalk. 389 00:21:38,195 --> 00:21:41,485 I'm now about halfway along the river's 200 mile length 390 00:21:41,485 --> 00:21:43,765 in the town of Henley-on-Thames. 391 00:21:48,605 --> 00:21:51,509 This Oxfordshire town has long been important 392 00:21:51,510 --> 00:21:54,080 as a trading hub on the route to London by River. 393 00:21:55,710 --> 00:21:59,249 Records show a bridge here nearly 800 years ago... 394 00:22:00,630 --> 00:22:04,710 ...but in 1857, the arrival of the train line transformed 395 00:22:04,710 --> 00:22:08,150 this place virtually overnight into a leisure resort. 396 00:22:09,909 --> 00:22:12,760 In the late-19th century, if you were a Londoner, 397 00:22:12,760 --> 00:22:16,390 you could get the train all the way upriver to here 398 00:22:16,390 --> 00:22:20,210 to potter around on the river, and it became really popular. 399 00:22:20,210 --> 00:22:23,869 In fact, one summer's day in 1888, 400 00:22:23,869 --> 00:22:28,330 nearly 7,000 people arrived here from Paddington. 401 00:22:28,330 --> 00:22:31,280 It was like Benidorm-on-sea... 402 00:22:31,280 --> 00:22:32,560 ...but a bit posher. 403 00:22:35,760 --> 00:22:38,360 And central to the town's popularity 404 00:22:38,360 --> 00:22:41,139 as the place to be seen in Victorian times 405 00:22:41,139 --> 00:22:43,170 was the annual Henley Regatta. 406 00:22:43,170 --> 00:22:46,730 It got incredibly popular and, so, many boats lined the river, 407 00:22:46,730 --> 00:22:50,380 you could virtually walk from one side to the other. 408 00:22:50,380 --> 00:22:53,889 Local newspapers complained the Thames was being invaded 409 00:22:53,889 --> 00:22:56,710 by roughnecks and working-class savages. 410 00:22:58,710 --> 00:23:01,850 Today, it's still a major sporting and social event, 411 00:23:01,850 --> 00:23:04,500 held in the first week of July. 412 00:23:04,500 --> 00:23:06,700 They're setting up for the Regatta now. 413 00:23:06,700 --> 00:23:11,180 Takes about eight weeks to put in all the pontoons and grandstands 414 00:23:11,180 --> 00:23:13,660 and corporate hospitality tents. 415 00:23:13,660 --> 00:23:16,660 And the thing has become so popular 416 00:23:16,660 --> 00:23:21,090 that it can cost up to two grand for the full five-day experience. 417 00:23:24,660 --> 00:23:27,939 Central to the Regatta is the head-to-head rowing races, 418 00:23:27,939 --> 00:23:32,100 and there's no team more successful than the Leander Rowing Club. 419 00:23:33,610 --> 00:23:35,970 Their clubhouse is right next to the bridge. 420 00:23:39,290 --> 00:23:43,180 Inside, you are left in no doubt you are in the home of greatness. 421 00:23:45,180 --> 00:23:49,380 They are Britain's most historic and most successful sports team, 422 00:23:49,380 --> 00:23:52,180 with 124 Olympic medals to prove it. 423 00:23:53,260 --> 00:23:55,019 Come and look at all of these. 424 00:23:55,019 --> 00:23:57,580 Leander Olympic gold medal winners. 425 00:23:57,580 --> 00:24:00,170 Redgrave, Redgrave, Redgrave, 426 00:24:00,170 --> 00:24:01,460 Pinsent, Pinsent, Pinsent, 427 00:24:01,460 --> 00:24:02,899 Cracknell. 428 00:24:02,899 --> 00:24:04,110 Here's one. 429 00:24:04,110 --> 00:24:08,740 WGRM Laurie. That's Hugh's dad. 430 00:24:08,740 --> 00:24:10,350 I can't see mine anywhere. 431 00:24:12,990 --> 00:24:15,970 So what's the key to producing champions? 432 00:24:18,530 --> 00:24:20,660 Hard work and dedication, obviously. 433 00:24:22,290 --> 00:24:25,360 But could it be the breakfasts? After all, it's 9am 434 00:24:25,360 --> 00:24:28,660 and this lot have already been out training on the river. 435 00:24:28,660 --> 00:24:32,350 Now, they are on their second breakfast of the day. 436 00:24:32,350 --> 00:24:34,540 God, look at this diet. 437 00:24:34,540 --> 00:24:38,889 First breakfast, cereal, banana, milk, juice, toast, spread, honey. 438 00:24:38,889 --> 00:24:40,580 Then a litre of sports drink. 439 00:24:40,580 --> 00:24:42,300 Second breakfast. 440 00:24:42,300 --> 00:24:45,540 Three slices of toast, two poached eggs, portion of mushrooms, 441 00:24:45,540 --> 00:24:49,590 200g of baked beans, blah, blah, blah, afternoon snack, blimey. 442 00:24:49,590 --> 00:24:54,069 Fish, meat, potatoes, bleugh, I can't get through it. 443 00:24:54,069 --> 00:24:58,069 6,230 calories. God, that would make you fat. 444 00:25:00,430 --> 00:25:01,899 Well, when in Rome... 445 00:25:03,780 --> 00:25:05,809 Why did you only get that? What? 446 00:25:05,809 --> 00:25:08,100 Why did you only get that? Because that's my toast. 447 00:25:08,100 --> 00:25:09,110 Oh. 448 00:25:11,740 --> 00:25:13,430 That would explain it. 449 00:25:13,430 --> 00:25:14,699 Do you want butter? 450 00:25:19,420 --> 00:25:22,460 So what's the point in taking all this on board? 451 00:25:22,460 --> 00:25:24,390 It's just the volume of training that we do. 452 00:25:24,390 --> 00:25:26,580 Yeah. So, it's obviously an endurance sport, 453 00:25:26,580 --> 00:25:29,470 and you are burning such a large number of calories anyway. 454 00:25:29,470 --> 00:25:31,100 Yeah. Thank you. 455 00:25:31,100 --> 00:25:33,149 That's more like it. Yeah, yeah. 456 00:25:33,149 --> 00:25:35,889 So, I mean, we've got another session in about an hour-and-a-half, 457 00:25:35,889 --> 00:25:39,380 so I don't want to have... I wouldn't eat that, necessarily, 458 00:25:39,380 --> 00:25:42,390 because I would probably see it again. 459 00:25:42,390 --> 00:25:47,260 Do you do jobs outside of this training, presumably? Yeah. 460 00:25:47,260 --> 00:25:51,180 So what do you do? So I nanny for a family. Yeah. 461 00:25:51,180 --> 00:25:55,149 And then I also coach as well, rowing coaching, 462 00:25:55,149 --> 00:25:57,330 and do a little bit of swimming teaching, 463 00:25:57,330 --> 00:25:59,069 so I essentially have three jobs. 464 00:25:59,069 --> 00:26:00,530 Alongside this as well. 465 00:26:05,970 --> 00:26:10,180 I'm going out on a training session with chief coach, Mark Banks. 466 00:26:10,180 --> 00:26:11,679 Cheers, mate. 467 00:26:11,679 --> 00:26:14,049 If anyone can give me an insight into what it's like 468 00:26:14,049 --> 00:26:16,210 to be part of a top team, he can. 469 00:26:17,320 --> 00:26:21,960 The success of what Steve Redgrave and Catherine Grainger, 470 00:26:21,960 --> 00:26:23,879 and all those other superstars, 471 00:26:23,879 --> 00:26:27,799 who you see getting Olympic gold medals, they make it look easy. 472 00:26:27,799 --> 00:26:29,799 Bu': it isn't. 473 00:26:29,799 --> 00:26:32,650 He's been coaching for 30 consecutive years 474 00:26:32,650 --> 00:26:36,290 at Olympic and World Championship level. 475 00:26:36,290 --> 00:26:39,009 As they are rowing, what are you looking at? 476 00:26:39,009 --> 00:26:41,879 Their blade is in the water for three quarters of a second, 477 00:26:41,879 --> 00:26:42,960 and we're looking, 478 00:26:42,960 --> 00:26:45,570 A, that the blades are going in at the same time, 479 00:26:45,570 --> 00:26:48,129 that the legs are propelling the boat, 480 00:26:48,129 --> 00:26:51,520 the legs are pushing before we start using the upper body, 481 00:26:51,520 --> 00:26:53,080 and then, of course, we're looking to see 482 00:26:53,080 --> 00:26:55,970 that they've got a really good rhythm which is sustainable, 483 00:26:55,970 --> 00:26:57,650 and it's really quite simple. 484 00:26:57,650 --> 00:27:00,490 It's doing the common uncommonly well. 485 00:27:07,040 --> 00:27:11,290 As they skim across the river, it looks so easy, so elegant, 486 00:27:11,290 --> 00:27:13,709 the cox keeping the boat as staright as an arrow. 487 00:27:20,909 --> 00:27:23,800 Having witnessed how it's done... 488 00:27:23,800 --> 00:27:27,880 ...it's now my time to shine as part of an elite team, 489 00:27:27,880 --> 00:27:31,580 and for once in my life, my size is a major asset. 490 00:27:32,860 --> 00:27:34,809 Are you about ready for me, now? Yeah. 491 00:27:34,809 --> 00:27:37,170 Cheers. Looking forward to it. 492 00:27:37,170 --> 00:27:40,600 I've managed to blag my way into the boat as cox. 493 00:27:40,600 --> 00:27:43,754 Who's taller, you or me? I think just about me, just... 494 00:27:43,754 --> 00:27:46,981 No, anyway, whoever. But I'm the right size. 495 00:27:47,005 --> 00:27:49,236 You're the right size for it, yeah, definitely. 496 00:27:49,236 --> 00:27:53,236 Sam Royston, their usual cox, gives me some tips on how to steer. 497 00:27:53,236 --> 00:27:55,716 This is the fin, this is how to keep the boat straight. 498 00:27:55,716 --> 00:27:57,196 Oh, that's not the rudder? 499 00:27:57,196 --> 00:27:59,115 No, the rudder is just this little thing back here. 500 00:27:59,115 --> 00:28:01,316 This tiny thing here? This tiny little metal thing, yeah. 501 00:28:01,316 --> 00:28:03,636 I'd always thought the rudder was the whole of the white thing. 502 00:28:03,636 --> 00:28:06,956 No, no. So you are controlling something that's about that big? 503 00:28:06,956 --> 00:28:09,456 Yeah. And you are wiggling a little bit of string 504 00:28:09,456 --> 00:28:10,765 that's about that tiny? 505 00:28:10,765 --> 00:28:13,166 And that's about 30 foot long, or something like that. 506 00:28:13,166 --> 00:28:16,956 Well, that doesn't sound too bad, bring it on. Up to head, go! 507 00:28:18,436 --> 00:28:21,156 Split, let's go! 508 00:28:23,665 --> 00:28:26,426 With a good briefing, I'm ready. 509 00:28:26,426 --> 00:28:29,226 You have to take me seriously, you know. 510 00:28:29,226 --> 00:28:33,486 Pushing off. Three, two, one... Off we go. 511 00:28:33,486 --> 00:28:36,956 I mean, how hard can it be to steer a £50,000 512 00:28:36,956 --> 00:28:40,196 very fragile carbon fibre boat? 513 00:28:40,196 --> 00:28:41,636 And... 514 00:28:41,636 --> 00:28:43,596 ...what do I say? Rag off, go. 515 00:28:43,596 --> 00:28:45,156 Rag Off, go! 516 00:28:51,915 --> 00:28:53,156 Race pace! 517 00:28:54,506 --> 00:28:57,156 Well, they say fake it till you make it. 518 00:28:57,156 --> 00:28:58,146 Entry. 519 00:28:59,586 --> 00:29:01,925 In my case, that's not very long. 520 00:29:05,156 --> 00:29:08,026 When you get in that situation, you just stop rowing. 521 00:29:08,026 --> 00:29:10,146 I think I over-ruddered there. 522 00:29:11,386 --> 00:29:13,206 OK, take two. 523 00:29:13,206 --> 00:29:15,716 Backstops. 524 00:29:15,716 --> 00:29:18,356 Going off. Row! 525 00:29:23,206 --> 00:29:25,566 Before that... Easy there! 526 00:29:25,566 --> 00:29:26,915 Easy! 527 00:29:26,915 --> 00:29:30,076 Not that I'm making excuses, but under full power, 528 00:29:30,076 --> 00:29:33,146 it's incredible difficult to keep it straight. 529 00:29:33,146 --> 00:29:35,306 Oh, God, I'm going into the side again. 530 00:29:38,636 --> 00:29:42,026 One thing I hadn't realised is the rudder doesn't give you the effect 531 00:29:42,026 --> 00:29:45,226 that you think it's going to give you straight away. 532 00:29:45,226 --> 00:29:49,596 It's a few beats, and so you try and compensate even more, 533 00:29:49,596 --> 00:29:53,236 and then when it does kick in, you find yourself way over, 534 00:29:53,236 --> 00:29:54,995 over that side 535 00:29:54,995 --> 00:29:56,236 OK... 536 00:29:56,236 --> 00:29:57,436 Go! 537 00:29:57,436 --> 00:29:58,646 ...one final go. 538 00:30:04,436 --> 00:30:06,596 Yeah, I think I've got it. 539 00:30:06,596 --> 00:30:09,236 OK, that's good. 540 00:30:09,236 --> 00:30:11,956 And, then, just for the briefest of moments, 541 00:30:11,956 --> 00:30:14,716 I get a taste of what it's like to fly across the water. 542 00:30:16,156 --> 00:30:18,366 Just like that, well done! 543 00:30:18,366 --> 00:30:22,116 In a race, these guys would be covering at least a mile, 544 00:30:22,116 --> 00:30:26,436 I only managed to keep it straight for about 200 yards. 545 00:30:26,436 --> 00:30:30,386 Well, they say it's not winning that counts, it's taking part. 546 00:30:30,386 --> 00:30:31,735 All good there, then. 547 00:30:31,735 --> 00:30:33,466 Thank you very much. 548 00:30:33,466 --> 00:30:37,206 I'll tell you what, that heavy breakfast didn't do me any favours. 549 00:30:42,086 --> 00:30:46,316 From Henley, I set off along a very boaty bit of the river, 550 00:30:46,316 --> 00:30:49,236 heading for the next village at Hurley. 551 00:30:50,516 --> 00:30:52,386 Hiya. 552 00:30:52,386 --> 00:30:53,586 Hi. 553 00:30:53,586 --> 00:30:57,846 Everybody waves at each other. It's a communal place, isn't it? 554 00:30:57,846 --> 00:31:01,795 It's somewhere where we can share our traditions 555 00:31:01,795 --> 00:31:05,716 and our history, even our etiquette. 556 00:31:05,716 --> 00:31:09,716 Hurley is the home of the oldest family of boat builders in Britain, 557 00:31:09,716 --> 00:31:14,116 who specialise in making these handcrafted wooden boats. 558 00:31:14,116 --> 00:31:17,875 Richard Freebody and his three sisters have history on the Thames 559 00:31:17,875 --> 00:31:20,366 that goes back to the 13th century. 560 00:31:23,656 --> 00:31:26,186 Richard, never mind that this is going to become a boat, 561 00:31:26,186 --> 00:31:28,895 it's just such a gorgeous piece of carpentry. 562 00:31:28,895 --> 00:31:31,536 Oh, thanks, Tony. Yeah, no, it's good fun. 563 00:31:31,536 --> 00:31:34,096 It's a very elegant shape, isn't it? It really is, yeah. 564 00:31:34,096 --> 00:31:36,456 Like a racing car. Very stylish, yeah. Yeah. 565 00:31:36,456 --> 00:31:39,096 It is quite exquisite. What's the wood? 566 00:31:39,096 --> 00:31:41,025 So this is Canadian Cedar, 567 00:31:41,025 --> 00:31:45,106 and this is mahogany, so quite a contrasting... 568 00:31:45,106 --> 00:31:47,976 How long would this take you, just, just this one boat? 569 00:31:47,976 --> 00:31:50,945 About two years, in all honesty. Yeah. 570 00:31:50,945 --> 00:31:53,856 Do you never make boats made out of fibreglass or plastic? 571 00:31:53,856 --> 00:31:55,306 Never ever, Tony. 572 00:31:55,306 --> 00:31:58,516 No, that's a terrible word to even mention around here, but... 573 00:31:58,516 --> 00:32:00,036 And it's a family business, right? 574 00:32:00,036 --> 00:32:04,366 Yeah, very much so. So over 300 years, so... 300 years? 575 00:32:04,366 --> 00:32:07,726 Yeah, that we can actually trace ourselves as fishermen 576 00:32:07,726 --> 00:32:11,446 and ferrymen from 1257. Oh, you're kidding. 577 00:32:11,446 --> 00:32:16,396 Undoubtably built our own boats to, you know, carry out the work. 578 00:32:16,396 --> 00:32:17,875 But where are the documents from 579 00:32:17,875 --> 00:32:19,516 that allowed you to go that far back? 580 00:32:19,516 --> 00:32:23,995 Literally old documentation relating to the Thames. 581 00:32:23,995 --> 00:32:30,286 So we are officially the earliest family boat builders in England. 582 00:32:30,286 --> 00:32:33,236 Which is a lovely, lovely accolade to have. 583 00:32:34,675 --> 00:32:39,236 Richard and his sisters are the 11th generation of boat builders. 584 00:32:39,236 --> 00:32:41,396 Soon there may even be a 12th. 585 00:32:41,396 --> 00:32:45,236 Can we have a look at who's here? 586 00:32:45,236 --> 00:32:47,716 Hiya, Kirstie. Hello. 587 00:32:47,716 --> 00:32:50,526 So these are your your son and your daughters? 588 00:32:50,526 --> 00:32:53,646 Yeah, this is George, and Jessica, and Daisy. 589 00:32:53,646 --> 00:32:56,396 Hands up any of you who might like to build boats 590 00:32:56,396 --> 00:32:59,196 when they're a bit older? Ah! Well, that's good. 591 00:32:59,196 --> 00:33:01,716 Would you like to build a boat when you're a big boy? 592 00:33:01,716 --> 00:33:03,196 What do you think, George? 593 00:33:03,196 --> 00:33:06,296 Yeah! Three hands up, three hands, that's fantastic. 594 00:33:06,296 --> 00:33:09,196 That would be lovely, wouldn't it? Another generation of boat builders. 595 00:33:09,196 --> 00:33:11,196 It'd be amazing. 596 00:33:11,196 --> 00:33:15,646 Its lovely. It's a way of life, really, rather than a business. 597 00:33:17,555 --> 00:33:21,286 Today, nine skilled craftsmen work alongside Richard 598 00:33:21,286 --> 00:33:24,196 building and restoring traditional boats. 599 00:33:24,196 --> 00:33:28,196 So, Tony, I don't know whether you could give me a hand, could you? 600 00:33:28,196 --> 00:33:31,795 "Give me a hand" is television speak for "muck things up". 601 00:33:31,795 --> 00:33:33,995 Well, let's give it a go, let's give it a go. 602 00:33:33,995 --> 00:33:37,296 We're going to just try and replicate this bead 603 00:33:37,296 --> 00:33:38,406 here on the bottom edge. 604 00:33:38,406 --> 00:33:41,326 And all that is done by hand? Everything done by hand, yeah. Wow! 605 00:33:41,326 --> 00:33:43,196 Yeah, absolutely. And it's very primitive. 606 00:33:43,196 --> 00:33:45,555 This is a screw that's been cut-off and sharpened up. 607 00:33:45,555 --> 00:33:47,805 Oh, you are joking, look at that. 608 00:33:47,805 --> 00:33:50,846 You said you were integrating technology into your boat building. 609 00:33:50,846 --> 00:33:52,166 Only when necessary. 610 00:33:52,166 --> 00:33:57,196 And basically it's a case of pushing this up to the edge, 611 00:33:57,196 --> 00:34:00,685 and just working the scratch along, 612 00:34:00,685 --> 00:34:04,755 and gradually pushing slightly harder and harder, 613 00:34:04,755 --> 00:34:07,476 and getting it deeper and deeper. 614 00:34:07,476 --> 00:34:10,116 Why don't you give that a go? OK. 615 00:34:11,446 --> 00:34:14,956 I'm so nervous about messing it up. 616 00:34:14,956 --> 00:34:20,326 Oh, I can do it. That's it, just gradually...just inch it forward. 617 00:34:20,326 --> 00:34:22,466 I think we will make a boat builder out of you yet. 618 00:34:22,466 --> 00:34:24,036 Are you sure? 619 00:34:24,036 --> 00:34:28,755 How long do you reckon it would take you to get this to that state? 620 00:34:28,755 --> 00:34:32,005 It would take me probably about an hour 621 00:34:32,005 --> 00:34:34,755 to get that to that stage there. 622 00:34:34,755 --> 00:34:36,516 Really? Is that all? Yeah, yeah, it's... 623 00:34:36,516 --> 00:34:38,276 It looks like a huge amount of work. 624 00:34:40,476 --> 00:34:44,326 Each boat receives at least 20 coats of a special varnish, 625 00:34:44,326 --> 00:34:48,486 the details of which remain a closely guarded family secret. 626 00:34:50,376 --> 00:34:52,685 Of course, you never know when a potential buyer 627 00:34:52,685 --> 00:34:56,036 may drop in looking for something rather special for the weekend. 628 00:34:57,916 --> 00:35:00,166 So, Tony, come and have a look at the showroom. 629 00:35:02,565 --> 00:35:06,046 Oh, look at this! 630 00:35:06,046 --> 00:35:08,406 That is so gorgeous. 631 00:35:08,406 --> 00:35:12,635 So this is, this is basically the finished version 632 00:35:12,635 --> 00:35:15,716 of what you've been helping to build. 633 00:35:15,716 --> 00:35:20,316 This 30 foot Freebody Slipper Launch is the top-of-the-range... 634 00:35:20,316 --> 00:35:23,635 It's so quiet. Yeah, they are lovely. 635 00:35:24,685 --> 00:35:26,645 ...with an almost silent electric engine. 636 00:35:33,526 --> 00:35:35,086 Would you like to have a go? 637 00:35:35,086 --> 00:35:38,856 Oh, mate, I would... Go on. Let's do it. 638 00:35:38,856 --> 00:35:40,136 Bleugh. 639 00:35:42,546 --> 00:35:45,746 Oh, this is beautiful. 640 00:35:45,746 --> 00:35:49,136 This isn't a sales pitch, Tony, but that suits you. 641 00:35:49,136 --> 00:35:50,346 Thank you. 642 00:35:51,496 --> 00:35:57,376 Well, that's a well-rehearsed line, but at £180,000 for a basic model, 643 00:35:57,376 --> 00:35:59,486 I best enjoy this while I can. 644 00:36:00,685 --> 00:36:02,406 It's lovely, isn't it? 645 00:36:02,406 --> 00:36:04,555 It's so luxurious. 646 00:36:05,755 --> 00:36:10,286 I've already got the elbow out the window, one-handed driving. 647 00:36:10,286 --> 00:36:12,996 I've only been driving it for 30 seconds. 648 00:36:12,996 --> 00:36:16,206 Do you know, I think Richard might be right. 649 00:36:16,206 --> 00:36:18,536 Gosh, she turns easily. 650 00:36:18,536 --> 00:36:20,916 Oh, my little darling. Yeah. 651 00:36:20,916 --> 00:36:22,476 It does suit me. 652 00:36:24,536 --> 00:36:29,196 This is the modern version of Edwardian life on the Thames. 653 00:36:29,196 --> 00:36:33,885 Gently cruising along, getting towards the end of the day, 654 00:36:33,885 --> 00:36:37,176 lovely warm temperature. 655 00:36:37,176 --> 00:36:38,726 I could get used to this. 656 00:36:45,376 --> 00:36:46,705 Coming UP--- 657 00:36:46,705 --> 00:36:49,856 I travel back in time at Hampton Court... 658 00:36:49,856 --> 00:36:54,606 Henry installed this clock, which not only told you the time, 659 00:36:54,606 --> 00:36:57,196 it also gave you the time of the tides, 660 00:36:57,196 --> 00:36:59,396 a sort of Tudor supercomputer. 661 00:37:00,716 --> 00:37:03,846 ...and catch a lift on the Queen's Royal barge. 662 00:37:03,846 --> 00:37:06,765 The shiny stuff all over it can't really be gold. 663 00:37:06,765 --> 00:37:10,456 It is, it's 22 carat gold leaf, all hand applied. 664 00:37:21,037 --> 00:37:23,816 I'm walking the Thames from source to sea, 665 00:37:23,816 --> 00:37:27,087 and for the last 70 miles, I've been following the middle Thames, 666 00:37:27,087 --> 00:37:29,287 the bit of the river that's gentle 667 00:37:29,287 --> 00:37:31,726 and best known for boating and leisure. 668 00:37:36,007 --> 00:37:37,726 Soon, as I approach London, 669 00:37:37,726 --> 00:37:41,327 the river will become tidal and much more industrial. 670 00:37:41,327 --> 00:37:46,047 But before then, there's one last stop I want to make. 671 00:37:46,047 --> 00:37:49,017 Over there you can just see the chimney pots 672 00:37:49,017 --> 00:37:53,247 of Hampton Court Palace, where Henry VIII lived with his six wives 673 00:37:53,247 --> 00:37:58,327 and surrounded himself with lavish art and threw lavish dinner parties 674 00:37:58,327 --> 00:38:01,686 for ambassadors and bishops and various cronies. 675 00:38:10,757 --> 00:38:14,327 Hampton Court was one of Henry's favourite palaces. 676 00:38:14,327 --> 00:38:18,007 It was opulent, impressive, and suited his character. 677 00:38:19,967 --> 00:38:22,517 He was loud, brash, and charismatic. 678 00:38:23,806 --> 00:38:25,207 And being on the river, 679 00:38:25,207 --> 00:38:28,017 Hampton Court gave him easy access to London. 680 00:38:33,087 --> 00:38:36,527 Because the river becomes tidal just downstream from here, 681 00:38:36,527 --> 00:38:40,736 in the year 1540, Henry installed this clock, 682 00:38:40,736 --> 00:38:42,816 which not only told you the time, 683 00:38:42,816 --> 00:38:45,527 it's also gave you the time of the tides, 684 00:38:45,527 --> 00:38:47,967 a sort of Tudor supercomputer. 685 00:38:49,247 --> 00:38:52,917 Having a clock that told the tides was essential to Henry, 686 00:38:52,917 --> 00:38:55,327 because before there were locks on the Thames, 687 00:38:55,327 --> 00:38:59,127 riding high water was the only way to make the trip to and from London. 688 00:39:01,207 --> 00:39:05,197 Today, there's an annual pageant going on at Hampton Court. 689 00:39:05,197 --> 00:39:07,977 A similar spectacle to the ones Henry liked to create 690 00:39:07,977 --> 00:39:10,229 when he travelled on the river. 691 00:39:11,299 --> 00:39:15,507 I've been invited to join them on this gilded barge, 692 00:39:15,507 --> 00:39:19,997 which is known as the Gloriana, and is a very important boat. 693 00:39:27,257 --> 00:39:30,586 The Gloriana is our present Queen's Royal barge, 694 00:39:30,586 --> 00:39:34,067 and I've managed to blag a lift on it. 695 00:39:34,067 --> 00:39:37,257 It was built for the Diamond Jubilee celebrations, 696 00:39:37,257 --> 00:39:40,507 and led a flotilla of 1,000 boats down the Thames. 697 00:39:43,027 --> 00:39:45,747 This boat was launched in 2012, 698 00:39:45,747 --> 00:39:48,617 but it's a replica of the kind of barge 699 00:39:48,617 --> 00:39:50,877 that was working the Thames. 700 00:39:55,027 --> 00:39:59,606 From the 16th century, the river became a place for Royal pomp. 701 00:39:59,606 --> 00:40:02,197 Gilded barges were draped with banners, 702 00:40:02,197 --> 00:40:04,047 boats carried musicians. 703 00:40:04,047 --> 00:40:06,606 This was the river of theatre. 704 00:40:07,806 --> 00:40:12,207 The current keeper of the Queen's barge is Malcolm Knight. 705 00:40:12,207 --> 00:40:15,277 This event has got a veneer of the ancient, 706 00:40:15,277 --> 00:40:17,666 but it's actually quite modern, isn't it? 707 00:40:17,666 --> 00:40:19,357 It is. It's totally modern. 708 00:40:19,357 --> 00:40:22,387 But obviously, you know, we've made it to look 709 00:40:22,387 --> 00:40:24,957 like a traditional Tudor event. 710 00:40:24,957 --> 00:40:28,947 It's what the Royal Waterman used to do in Henry Vlll's time. 711 00:40:28,947 --> 00:40:33,317 They used to row their king, so now we are going to row to the tower 712 00:40:33,317 --> 00:40:36,437 to celebrate the importance of Her Majesty's Royal Highway, 713 00:40:36,437 --> 00:40:37,897 the river Thames. 714 00:40:37,897 --> 00:40:40,107 Back in Tudor times, would all of the Royals 715 00:40:40,107 --> 00:40:42,257 have had their own barge? Yes, they did. 716 00:40:42,257 --> 00:40:43,586 That's how they got around, 717 00:40:43,586 --> 00:40:48,387 because the roads in London were sick, mud and everything else. 718 00:40:48,387 --> 00:40:51,867 In those clays, the boat was the car of London. 719 00:40:51,867 --> 00:40:53,817 That's right, it was the way to get around. 720 00:40:53,817 --> 00:40:57,217 The shiny stuff all over it can't really be gold? It is. 721 00:40:57,217 --> 00:41:00,826 It's 22 carat gold leaf, all hand appfied 722 00:41:00,826 --> 00:41:03,097 by a team from Hare & Humphreys. 723 00:41:03,097 --> 00:41:05,537 It's a special formulation that they've put together 724 00:41:05,537 --> 00:41:08,366 over the years, which weathers very well. 725 00:41:08,366 --> 00:41:10,606 So, fortunately, we don't have to polish them, the gold, 726 00:41:10,606 --> 00:41:12,197 we just have to polish the brass. 727 00:41:14,927 --> 00:41:18,127 Just like in the old-fashioned high status barges, 728 00:41:18,127 --> 00:41:20,496 the insides are much more muted 729 00:41:20,496 --> 00:41:23,627 compared with all the gold on the outside. 730 00:41:23,627 --> 00:41:27,317 This is where the Queen sat when she was taking her tea, here. 731 00:41:27,317 --> 00:41:33,157 And up here, all of these paintings on the roof are hand-painted. 732 00:41:33,157 --> 00:41:35,596 And they are birds going from the estuary 733 00:41:35,596 --> 00:41:39,676 right up to the start of the river. 734 00:41:39,676 --> 00:41:41,596 Swan, plover... Lovely, aren't they? 735 00:41:47,087 --> 00:41:49,837 After an hour, we reach Teddington lock, 736 00:41:49,837 --> 00:41:52,596 the official end of the non-tidal River. 737 00:41:57,517 --> 00:42:00,227 You are going ashore. I am indeed, yes. 738 00:42:00,227 --> 00:42:02,107 Welcome to terra firma. Thank you very much. 739 00:42:02,107 --> 00:42:03,947 It's been a pleasure to meet you. And you. 740 00:42:03,947 --> 00:42:06,977 Thank you very much, enjoy the rest of your time on the river. See you. 741 00:42:09,027 --> 00:42:11,556 Well, that's the end of my jaunt on the Gloriana, 742 00:42:11,556 --> 00:42:14,717 and indeed it's the end of my walk along the middle Thames. 743 00:42:14,717 --> 00:42:19,527 This is the final lock, Teddington, and after that, London. 744 00:42:19,527 --> 00:42:21,267 But that's for next time. 745 00:42:22,527 --> 00:42:23,707 Next time... 746 00:42:23,707 --> 00:42:24,796 God. 747 00:42:24,796 --> 00:42:27,796 ...I follow the Thames through the heart of London... 748 00:42:27,796 --> 00:42:30,707 I have actually found something. Hey-yo! 749 00:42:30,707 --> 00:42:33,187 ...discovering how the river made the city... 750 00:42:33,187 --> 00:42:35,707 This is what we call liquid history. 751 00:42:35,707 --> 00:42:39,907 ...into a trading powerhouse and an icon to the world. 752 00:42:39,907 --> 00:42:41,586 The bridge is coming down. 753 00:42:44,107 --> 00:42:50,466 Subtitles by Red Bee Media