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This is Tibet in the 1930s
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A beautiful isolated land,
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high up in the mountains of the Himalayas,
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surrounded by the empires of Britain
and China
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and yet still almost completely untouched
by the outside world
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Tibet is now most famous for its leader,
the Dalai Lama,
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who was forced into exile nearly 50 years ago
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This treasure trove of rare colour films,
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shot by British Chinese and Tibetan people
who lived through these times,
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have been preserved by
the British Film Institute
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These films allow us a glimpse into a world
which has almost entirely disappeared
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To a time before the Dalai Lama
and his people lost their country
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Oh, Father! I think it's my father.
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It's now impossible to tell the story of Tibet
in Tibet
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because since the Chinese invasion of 1950,
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it's become a criminal offence
to even discuss Tibetan independence
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in territory controlled by China.
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So, to tell the tale of The Lost world of Tibet,
I’ve had to come to another country.
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I’ve come to India.
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The Dalai Lama escaped here in 1959
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and along with the Tibetan government
in exile is based here in Mcleodganj
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To understand how Tibet was lost
and why the Dalai Lama must live in exile,
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we have to look back to a time
when Tibet was a free nation.
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This is Lhasa the capital of Tibet
in the early 1940s
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This film is of the main shopping street
known as the Barkhor
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Despite being shot in the 20th century
it looks medieval
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Hardly surprising given Tibet's location
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It was almost impossible to reach
so it remained frozen in time
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Namgyal Takler lived in Tibet in the 1940s
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We had the huge mountains surrounding Tibet.
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And then we were inside this mountain,
isolated.
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And we had the big Russia, China, Britain
around us,
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and it was the policy to be kept...
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this country to be kept as a buffer state.
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A zone where the big powers will not meet.
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And we lived in the 20th century
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but maybe we lived like
we were in the 16th century.
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Tibetan society was both feudal
and deeply religious
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Buddhism had a profound effect
in shaping its culture and traditions
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Ruled by a dual system of aristocratic families
and Buddhist monks
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the government's main function
was to maintain the religious state
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Tibet's feudal structure meant that
most of the population lived in poverty
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Any attempts to modernise
or invite foreign influence
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were resisted by the conservative
and profoundly religious outlook
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Life in Lhasa was dominated by
a huge number of religious festival
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which involved most of the city's population
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68 days of the year were taken up with festival
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Since the Chinese occupation of Tibet
all of these festivals have been banned
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Even though life for exiled Tibetans
has changed enormously
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since the Chinese invasion
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Tibetan society is still deeply religious
and Buddhism is central to its culture
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Tibetan prayer flags still hang in holy places
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Each time the wind blows the prayers that are
written on them are released into the universe
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Their colours are symbolic
They represent water fire earth and air
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Buddhism arrived in Tibet in the 7th century AD,
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about a thousand years after it started
in Northern India.
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Focusing on spiritual development,
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all Buddhists believe that the road
to enlightenment
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lies through the practice and development
of morality, meditation and wisdom.
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At the time these films were made
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monks made up 20%
of the male Tibetan population
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Every Tibetan family rich or poor
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sent their youngest son to a monastery
as a spiritual and religious duty
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Because monks had a high social status
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poor families gave up their boys
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in the certain knowledge
they would be looked after financially for life
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These boys would just have arrived
at the monastery
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Even though in theory
they could give up being a monk if they wanted
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they'd expect to stay there
for the rest of their lives
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The present Dalai Lama who is the 14th
was found while he was still a small child
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In a tradition that dates back
to the 17th century
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the Dalai Lama or Ocean of Wisdom is both
the spiritual and secular leader of Tibet
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All Buddhists believe in rebirth
and reincarnation,
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but for Tibetan Buddhists,
the man they call His Holiness the Dalai Lama,
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is very special indeed.
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Some see him as a man -god.
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All believe he is the reincarnation
of all 13 previous Dalai Lamas,
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and he’s the Bodhisattva of compassion,
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an enlightened being who's chosen rebirth
as a human being
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so he can be on this world to help others.
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When the 13th Dalai Lama died,
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his reincarnation a three year old boy
called Tenzin Gyatso was found
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some 600 miles from the capital in Amdo
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a province in the far northeast
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While the western world was at war,
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the family made the long journey
to the capital Lhasa
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The 14th Dalai Lama arrived in October 1940
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By now he was five years old
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He was accompanied by his father
and mother and two elder brothers
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Lobsang Samten and Gyalo Thondup
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Oh, Father! I think it's my father.
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Father, yes.
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And my mother.
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This is my elder brother.
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Whom I bully.
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My mother - very, very gentle.
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Almost I never saw her demonstrate a temper.
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I never saw. Very gentle.
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Always smiling.
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Somebody very rich. A very rich woman.
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A villager, uneducated.
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At the beginning, illiterate.
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Later, with her own effort,
see can read some books.
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Now, here, yes. My father with the moustache.
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He was very much interested
in keeping his moustache very...
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in a very organised way.
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Not like that.
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So he used...
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Of course, our family from time to time,
were eating meat with bone.
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So, every time, from the bone,
there is something.
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What do you call it? Marrow?
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He used to put this on his moustache
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and do it like that.
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Although the young Dalai Lama
was revered as a godking
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he would not take up his position
as head of state until he reached 18
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Years of monastic study lay ahead of him
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Buddhism involves training,
transforming the mind
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so as to have a full understanding
of the true nature of existence
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to gain happiness, and, ultimately,
to achieve spiritual enlightenment.
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Buddhists believe it's only possible
to escape suffering,
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to find true happiness,
by giving up all worldly desires.
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And by accepting the transitory nature of life.
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All things change, come to an end.
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Don't try and hang on to things.
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Also, one has to understand that all one’s
actions, one’s karma, have consequences,
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for good or for ill.
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If you do good things, then you get merit
and hurtle towards your own enlightenment.
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But more to the point,
do good things and the world benefits.
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You put positive energy out into the world.
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The events of Buddha's life and teachings
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were celebrated through ceremonies
and ritual that dominated life in Tibet
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The Monlam Chenmo or Great Prayer Festival
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is a series of events
which commemorates the day
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when Buddha preached the dhamma
or sacred text for the first time
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The festival starts when the monks take over
the running of Lhasa from the government
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The proctors of the Drepung Monastery arrive
carrying heavy silver maces
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to demand that power is handed over to them
by the Kashag or parliament
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Their attendants ceremonially throw down
the whips of the city magistrates
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and bow to the proctors
to formalise the handover
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The proctors are accompanied by
the dobdobs or monastic police
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huge monks who carry long sticks and whips
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Wearing padded robes
their job is to intimidate and control
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the crowd of 20000 monks
who flood the city for the festival
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For the next month the proctors are able to
impose fines on the general public
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For having a dirty house
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for using bells on a horse or mule
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for women not wearing a headdress
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for the wearing of foreign shoes
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or any disorderly behaviour
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Gifts of money and food were handed out
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While the event was mostly funded by
the government
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there were contributions from the British
and Chinese trade missions based in Lhasa
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At this time the Chinese were happy
to support religious events
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The Tibetan government was dominated by
a group of aristocratic families
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There were about 200 families
who made up the civil service
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and each of them had to provide a son
to serve as an official
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Within the aristocracy
there were 30 higher status families
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who had the most senior positions
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Namgyal is from one of these families
the Tsarongs
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Oh, that's our house.
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the house I was born in.
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the Tsarong house.
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And that's my Aunt Kookula.
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And that's my mother.
they’re really modelling away.
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It seems quite strange that they are modelling,
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because we’d never even heard of this in Tibet
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nor did anybody do that.
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It seems quite strange.
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I'm sure Aunty Kookula
must have arranged this.
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And I don't know who took the picture
but it's very beautiful. Very beautiful.
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I think they had a British governess,
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and so see must have taught my mother
how to walk,
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because I can't imagine my mother
showing her clothes.
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they’re wearing the Lhasa
ceremonial costumes.
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Kookula's considered very beautiful,
and she’s really beautiful in here, I must say.
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And you notice here...
This is also in our garden.
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We had one of the best gardens, also, in Lhasa,
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because my grandfather himself,
he worked in the garden.
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Also he made all the family members
come and work.
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We, each child, had our tree.
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We had to water the tree, fertilise it,
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and we were only allowed to take the fruits of
that tree and no fruits from the other trees,
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so we had strawberries, we had gooseberries,
we had pears, everything.
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In this picture you see my aunts
together with my grandfather.
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they had the same father - Tsarong,
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but they had three different mothers.
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they were three sisters
from the original Tsarong family.
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This sort of family structure
was not unusual in Tibet
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Men could marry a number of women
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and even women could marry
a number of men
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the reason is
to keep the family wealth together.
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Married out,
the brothers had several wives.
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There are bound to be troubles,
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and then they might say,
'OK, we want to separate the land.'
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So they usually had brothers marry
one daughter,
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or the daughters marrying several brothers,
and so on.
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It was very common.
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Divorce did exist,
and usually what happened was
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before... during marriage
there is a contract made,
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and then usually most of the divorces,
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the wife would be well looked after
when she leaves the home.
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If there’s a son, the son stays with the father,
the daughter stays with the mother.
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So there’s no custody of the children,
fighting about it.
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the daughter goes to the mother,
the son to the father.
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they could also remarry.
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We had no problems about divorces
or widows remarrying.
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In fact, if they were younger,
they were encouraged to marry.
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Tibet's feudal structure meant that
most of the population lived in poverty
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Ordinary families were reliant on
the landowners for a living
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They were effectively owned by them
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and each family had specific jobs
they were born into
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Phuntsog Tsering's family were tailors
for one of the aristocratic families in Lhasa
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TRANSLATOR: I come from a tailoring family.
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My father and mother were both tailors
and they trained me.
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Now these are the costumes
for the aristocratic ladies.
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In terms of design and patterns,
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these outfits are the type worn
by the aristocrats,
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but they’re really quite similar to those
that the more ordinary woman would wear.
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There was summer and winter wear,
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and these outfits are for the winter.
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these are definitely winter wear.
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You can tell by the Length of the sleeves.
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When it comes to making these costumes,
we did everything by hand.
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In those days,
we didn't have sewing machines in Tibet.
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But for a tailor like me,
it would take about two days.
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That's right. I could complete something
like that in about two days.
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these are the costumes of the Kashag,
and they are relatively easy to sew.
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All of the aristocrats' costumes
were made of brocade.
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But the type of brocade, in terms of colour,
shine, pattern and quality,
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would again depend on their rank.
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If we were making something
for a government civil servant,
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the design and pattern would depend
completely on their rank and status.
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Shewo Lobsang Darje was a junibr rank
civil servant in the early 1950s
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the higher ranked officials had a huge number
of costumes they had to wear,
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while the lower ranks had far fewer.
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One of the original ancient costumes
that was traditionally worn on official occasions
237
00:18:22,631 --> 00:18:24,622
is called the Gyalu costume.
238
00:18:25,711 --> 00:18:27,702
And I have worn that costume myself.
239
00:18:31,551 --> 00:18:35,749
I was one of the lowest ranks,
like the 6th or 7th grade,
240
00:18:36,551 --> 00:18:38,507
and we all wore the Gyalu.
241
00:18:38,551 --> 00:18:40,542
It was the same colour for everyone.
242
00:18:44,471 --> 00:18:48,384
But for day-to-day wear,
I wore the native Nambu outfit,
243
00:18:48,711 --> 00:18:51,384
which was made of black or brown
woollen cloth.
244
00:18:54,631 --> 00:18:58,101
A unique feature of the costume
was the yellow hat called a bog to,
245
00:18:58,151 --> 00:19:01,188
which was worn by every grade of civil servant.
246
00:19:03,431 --> 00:19:07,026
As for the Length of our hair,
everybody just let it grow.
247
00:19:07,431 --> 00:19:10,707
Some had it down to their waists,
some a bit shorter.
248
00:19:11,591 --> 00:19:15,186
You let it grow to its natural Length,
and you'd never get it cut.
249
00:19:18,071 --> 00:19:20,585
I used to have hair down to here
in those days.
250
00:19:20,991 --> 00:19:23,505
It was very long and very thick.
251
00:19:24,831 --> 00:19:27,629
the topknot, or pah chok,
were very fiddly to do.
252
00:19:27,671 --> 00:19:31,744
they would take ages, but once you got used
to it, you could do it yourself.
253
00:19:32,631 --> 00:19:35,270
If you were in a hurry, you would need help,
254
00:19:35,311 --> 00:19:37,142
especially with the braiding,
255
00:19:37,191 --> 00:19:40,467
so you would teach your wife how to do it
and see would help you.
256
00:19:41,471 --> 00:19:45,942
Later, you could call in a professional
hairdresser who specialised in braiding,
257
00:19:45,991 --> 00:19:48,869
and they were very skilled
and therefore quicker.
258
00:19:52,231 --> 00:19:54,301
Most men and women had long hair.
259
00:19:54,911 --> 00:19:58,870
Of course the monks didn't,
because they had to have their heads shaved.
260
00:19:58,911 --> 00:20:00,981
Everybody else grew their hair long.
261
00:20:06,991 --> 00:20:10,267
This massive civil and monastic bureaucracy
within Lhasa
262
00:20:10,311 --> 00:20:16,102
was about to be led spiritually if not politically
by the five-year-old Dalai Lama
263
00:20:19,591 --> 00:20:23,300
Before his official enthronement
he stayed at the Summer Palace
264
00:20:23,351 --> 00:20:25,342
the Norbulingka
265
00:20:25,911 --> 00:20:29,108
At first his family were also allowed
to stay there too
266
00:20:29,831 --> 00:20:31,822
before he began his new life
267
00:20:32,311 --> 00:20:38,022
Of course, at that time,
my mother and father, and my elder brother
268
00:20:38,071 --> 00:20:40,062
remained or stayed with me.
269
00:20:40,711 --> 00:20:46,183
Then Mother and Father,
I think every day cam to see me.
270
00:20:47,431 --> 00:20:50,264
And also I used to visit their home.
271
00:20:50,311 --> 00:20:54,384
I enjoy my native village’s food.
272
00:20:57,271 --> 00:20:59,546
While pilgrims came from all over Tibet
273
00:20:59,591 --> 00:21:02,708
foreign dignitaries also paid homage
to the godking
274
00:21:05,591 --> 00:21:10,267
The British political officer in nearby Sikkim
brought a movie camera with him
275
00:21:10,311 --> 00:21:14,190
and managed to get this first ever
moving picture of the Dalai Lama
276
00:21:16,631 --> 00:21:20,863
Sir Basil Goul seen here
with a white prayer scarf around his neck
277
00:21:20,911 --> 00:21:24,381
also brought an expensive foreign toy car
for the little boy
278
00:21:25,431 --> 00:21:28,548
But already his status set him apart
from other children
279
00:21:28,591 --> 00:21:33,028
and only his older brother Lobsang
was allowed to test drive it
280
00:21:33,791 --> 00:21:36,100
This is my brother. Elder brother.
281
00:21:36,151 --> 00:21:42,260
So the people felt, if I handle it,
it may be too risky,
282
00:21:43,031 --> 00:21:46,068
so my elder brother - 'let him play.'
283
00:21:46,911 --> 00:21:49,106
Sometimes I feel a little jealousy.
284
00:21:54,591 --> 00:21:58,061
Somebody’s in the car.
I wonder if that is my husband.
285
00:21:59,231 --> 00:22:01,222
It's him.
286
00:22:03,031 --> 00:22:08,025
Namgyal married the Dalai Lama's
older brother Lobsang in 1962
287
00:22:09,791 --> 00:22:12,988
There’s Lobsang on the horse now. I see him.
288
00:22:13,791 --> 00:22:16,942
Lobsang's so serious.
I can't believe he looks so serious.
289
00:22:16,991 --> 00:22:20,028
He’s not a serious person,
but in there he looks so serious.
290
00:22:21,111 --> 00:22:23,181
Now, that is a very rich picture, yes,
291
00:22:23,231 --> 00:22:25,620
of Lobsang's father.
292
00:22:27,111 --> 00:22:29,181
With his mother going in front of him.
293
00:22:30,111 --> 00:22:33,183
the wonderful thing about my mother-in -law,
which I really admire,
294
00:22:33,231 --> 00:22:37,304
is see loved wearing her own simple jewellery
and dresses.
295
00:22:37,831 --> 00:22:40,106
See was a wonderful person, very simple.
296
00:22:41,471 --> 00:22:43,462
From a small village,
297
00:22:43,511 --> 00:22:47,390
but she was always so kind to everybody.
298
00:22:47,991 --> 00:22:51,540
If a beggar cam to the home
and asked for something,
299
00:22:51,591 --> 00:22:54,663
she’d ask the cook to please feed the person,
300
00:22:54,711 --> 00:22:56,508
whoever it was.
301
00:22:56,551 --> 00:22:58,621
And see was really kind to everybody.
302
00:22:58,671 --> 00:23:00,150
Wonderful person.
303
00:23:05,271 --> 00:23:09,549
The date for the 14th Dalai Lama's
enthronement ceremony at the Potala Palace
304
00:23:09,591 --> 00:23:13,186
was reached according to complex
astrological calculations
305
00:23:14,351 --> 00:23:18,742
The distance between the Norbulingka Palace
and the Potala is only a few miles
306
00:23:19,311 --> 00:23:21,950
The Dalai Lama would be accompanied
on this short journey
307
00:23:21,991 --> 00:23:24,585
by the whole of his monastic and civil retinue
308
00:23:26,271 --> 00:23:30,105
The 13storey Potala
was originally built in the 7th century
309
00:23:30,911 --> 00:23:34,347
It 's a quarter of a mile long
with over a 1000 rooms
310
00:23:36,231 --> 00:23:38,745
It was the winter residence of the Dalai Lama
311
00:23:38,791 --> 00:23:41,430
a centre for religious worship and training
312
00:23:41,471 --> 00:23:44,986
as well as housing Tibet's government
and huge civil service
313
00:23:46,991 --> 00:23:54,784
Tenzin Gyatso was enthroned as the 14th
Dalai Lama on the 22nd February 1940
314
00:23:55,631 --> 00:23:59,544
A life of austerity and strict scholarly pursuit
began for the five year old
315
00:23:59,591 --> 00:24:01,582
and his brother Lobsang
316
00:24:02,031 --> 00:24:06,900
I think, for him, being a normal child
and then suddenly becoming a monk
317
00:24:06,951 --> 00:24:10,227
and then coming up to Lhasa with His Holiness,
318
00:24:10,271 --> 00:24:17,143
and leaving the parents and suddenly going
into this huge Potala Palace and living there
319
00:24:17,871 --> 00:24:22,991
amidst the older monks who can be quite strict,
320
00:24:23,031 --> 00:24:26,865
and he used to often tell me
it wasn't that pleasant there.
321
00:24:27,951 --> 00:24:30,067
DALAI LAMA:
the elder brother stayed with me.
322
00:24:30,911 --> 00:24:32,902
We always played.
323
00:24:33,871 --> 00:24:36,260
And sometimes I bullied him,
324
00:24:36,311 --> 00:24:39,348
although he’s older than me.
325
00:24:40,751 --> 00:24:44,824
He used to talk about His Holiness being
quite naughty and mischievous.
326
00:24:45,391 --> 00:24:51,500
And that when he was naughty,
his tutors used to frighten Lobsang.
327
00:24:52,071 --> 00:24:58,260
And then His Holiness used to get into
a lot of very rich games, running around,
328
00:24:58,311 --> 00:25:00,950
and then feeding the birds
outside on the roofs.
329
00:25:00,991 --> 00:25:02,982
That was the greatest fun.
330
00:25:03,071 --> 00:25:07,383
Here were these two little boys
with the older attendants
331
00:25:07,431 --> 00:25:09,626
and huge dark rooms
332
00:25:09,671 --> 00:25:12,583
and it was very frightening for them.
333
00:25:13,671 --> 00:25:18,222
Coming from a village where you had
a lot of running around, freedom,
334
00:25:18,271 --> 00:25:20,227
and then suddenly you’re up there,
335
00:25:20,271 --> 00:25:23,343
it must have been quite intimidating for him.
336
00:25:24,671 --> 00:25:29,222
DALAI LAMA: So, then, I think once a month,
my mother cam.
337
00:25:30,551 --> 00:25:32,940
So when my mother cam, I'd feel very happy.
338
00:25:32,991 --> 00:25:37,462
Then my mother would depart,
and I'd feel a little...
339
00:25:39,431 --> 00:25:41,945
...a little uncomfortable, a little sad.
340
00:25:48,111 --> 00:25:50,102
While the young boy studied
341
00:25:50,151 --> 00:25:53,109
a monk regent took the role of
Tibet's temporal leader
342
00:25:53,151 --> 00:25:55,949
until the Dalai Lama
reached the age of majority
343
00:25:56,831 --> 00:26:01,063
Regent Retting seen here
with his enormous bodyguard Uttugba
344
00:26:01,111 --> 00:26:03,306
oversaw much of this power vacuum
345
00:26:03,871 --> 00:26:05,862
But his regime was seen as corrupt
346
00:26:06,351 --> 00:26:09,866
He was displaced and then imprisoned
after an attempted coup
347
00:26:10,231 --> 00:26:12,222
He died in jail
348
00:26:12,591 --> 00:26:15,708
The Dalai Lama had to wait
to take full political power
349
00:26:16,031 --> 00:26:19,706
but as the country's spiritual leader
he acted as a figurehead
350
00:26:20,431 --> 00:26:24,868
One of the five-year-old 's official duties
was attending cabinet meetings
351
00:26:24,911 --> 00:26:28,381
His strict routine only varied
for the important festival
352
00:26:29,831 --> 00:26:35,110
The festival of the Votive Offering took place
in the eastern courtyard of the Potala Palace
353
00:26:35,631 --> 00:26:37,940
It was a deeply significant solemn occasion
354
00:26:37,991 --> 00:26:42,109
in which all of the sins and bad events
from the previous year were purged
355
00:26:42,151 --> 00:26:44,142
clearing the way for the next
356
00:26:45,031 --> 00:26:48,580
The Yellow Hatted monks
of the Dalai Lama's own Namgyal monastery
357
00:26:48,631 --> 00:26:54,024
join the government and civil official as they
prostrate themselves in front of His Holiness
358
00:26:54,551 --> 00:26:57,588
Watching from the top floor is the Dalai Lama
359
00:27:01,431 --> 00:27:06,061
The main event of the Votive Offering
is the cham a Tantric dance
360
00:27:06,711 --> 00:27:10,989
Accompanied by drummers and trumpets
dancers emerge into the courtyard
361
00:27:12,031 --> 00:27:14,340
They have spent many hours in meditation
362
00:27:14,391 --> 00:27:17,906
envisaging themselves as the deity
they are about to perform
363
00:27:21,031 --> 00:27:26,105
Usur Nawang Tashi was one of these dancers
and later taught cham dancing
364
00:27:27,591 --> 00:27:30,981
TRANSLATOR: Now here are the Cham
dancers making their entrance.
365
00:27:32,031 --> 00:27:34,022
I have performed this dance myself.
366
00:27:43,271 --> 00:27:46,980
This is performed on the last day
of the Tibetan calendar year.
367
00:27:48,071 --> 00:27:52,587
As the new year’s approaching,
it's performed as an auspicious ritual
368
00:27:53,271 --> 00:27:58,186
to make sure that during the following year
there is enough rain when we need it,
369
00:27:58,231 --> 00:28:03,100
that no misfortunes happen, that we are
protected from any negative forces,
370
00:28:03,151 --> 00:28:05,619
and that there is peace in the world.
371
00:28:06,431 --> 00:28:08,706
That's why we perform the cham dance.
372
00:28:20,511 --> 00:28:24,982
This one with the horns in the middle is
the principal character of the cham dance,
373
00:28:25,031 --> 00:28:27,022
the Damchen Chohgyal.
374
00:28:30,671 --> 00:28:35,301
Ringed around him are 22 black hat dancers
and 16 masked dancers.
375
00:28:43,191 --> 00:28:48,424
Teaching the stag dance is very difficult,
especially as they start as young boys.
376
00:28:48,791 --> 00:28:50,782
I found it very hard myself.
377
00:28:53,391 --> 00:28:58,181
Although he look like an adult,
he’s actually a boy.
378
00:28:58,231 --> 00:29:02,019
He would probably be about 12, 13
or maybe even 14.
379
00:29:06,391 --> 00:29:09,861
I remember being very anxious and scared
during the performance
380
00:29:09,911 --> 00:29:11,902
in case we made a mistake
381
00:29:12,391 --> 00:29:16,384
because if you got anything wrong,
discipline was very strict.
382
00:29:16,871 --> 00:29:19,943
Even if you made a tiny mistake,
you'd be punished.
383
00:29:24,431 --> 00:29:27,946
Only young boys are agile enough
to perform this.
384
00:29:28,911 --> 00:29:31,106
Your cham teachers train you.
385
00:29:31,511 --> 00:29:34,230
Because the training involves a lot of kneeling,
386
00:29:34,271 --> 00:29:39,299
you'd get lots of cuts and bruises on your knees
and you'd get beatings too.
387
00:29:41,751 --> 00:29:45,426
Only through such strict training,
can you achieve perfection.
388
00:29:48,831 --> 00:29:53,666
When we began our training, and were learning
how to do the black hat dance,
389
00:29:53,711 --> 00:29:57,829
the repetitive arm and leg movements
made you very stiff.
390
00:29:58,671 --> 00:30:03,870
So stiff that it would be really uncomfortable
to sit cross-legged for the prayer sessions.
391
00:30:06,111 --> 00:30:09,069
the costumes were very heavy
and difficult to wear,
392
00:30:09,111 --> 00:30:12,660
but if you didn't wear them,
you'd look too puny.
393
00:30:12,711 --> 00:30:16,226
You wouldn't look the part,
so there was padding to beef you up.
394
00:30:17,311 --> 00:30:20,144
You'd get very stuffy inside the masks.
395
00:30:20,551 --> 00:30:22,940
the performance would last three hours
396
00:30:22,991 --> 00:30:26,586
and the whole affair
would be at least three hours.
397
00:30:28,951 --> 00:30:33,547
At the end of the ceremony
a cathartic fire purification rite is performed
398
00:30:33,591 --> 00:30:36,583
to ensure that the last traces of evil
are dispelled
399
00:30:38,151 --> 00:30:41,541
Now you can see they’re heating up oil
in a cauldron.
400
00:30:42,831 --> 00:30:45,299
Later they'll add rum or alcohol.
401
00:30:50,191 --> 00:30:53,706
In this ritual, you fill a human skull with alcohol
402
00:30:53,751 --> 00:30:56,424
and then you pour it into the boiling oil.
403
00:31:03,031 --> 00:31:04,783
(Prayer bells and chanting)
404
00:31:12,231 --> 00:31:15,621
Tibetan Buddhism differs from other types
because at its roots
405
00:31:15,671 --> 00:31:18,583
are the traditions of the earlier Bon religion
406
00:31:18,631 --> 00:31:22,863
Therefore, there’s a belief in gods
and celestial beings,
407
00:31:22,911 --> 00:31:29,350
but also there are various traditions that involve
all Tibetan society in their practice of Buddhism.
408
00:31:29,631 --> 00:31:34,102
the Tibetans believe that their prayers
can be given added power
409
00:31:34,151 --> 00:31:39,430
by being conducted
by means of a prayer wheel.
410
00:31:39,471 --> 00:31:41,462
Here’s a prayer wheel.
411
00:31:45,391 --> 00:31:47,382
Walking round the wheel
412
00:31:47,431 --> 00:31:52,459
means that my prayers have the power
of all the written prayers inside this wheel.
413
00:31:52,911 --> 00:31:54,344
Incredible.
414
00:31:54,391 --> 00:31:58,589
Also, there are flags, which have a similar
theme to prayers through repetition.
415
00:31:58,631 --> 00:32:00,622
And the mantras...
416
00:32:00,671 --> 00:32:03,981
are used to really gain merit
417
00:32:04,031 --> 00:32:07,262
and to help one on one’s path to enlightenment.
418
00:32:09,551 --> 00:32:11,940
(Chanting)
419
00:32:14,351 --> 00:32:17,627
Prayer wheel can contain
up to a mile of written prayers
420
00:32:18,151 --> 00:32:20,949
They are symbolically 'recited' with every turn
421
00:32:21,791 --> 00:32:26,307
Pilgrims earn merit and concentrate their minds
on the mantras they are reciting
422
00:32:26,351 --> 00:32:28,342
as the wheel turns
423
00:32:43,431 --> 00:32:48,459
The circular five mile walk which surrounded
Lhasa was known as the Lingkhor
424
00:32:49,431 --> 00:32:53,504
On the festival days pilgrims would start
walking early in the morning
425
00:32:56,151 --> 00:33:00,622
Artemisia scrub rhododendron
and juniper twigs were burnt
426
00:33:00,671 --> 00:33:02,946
and the air would be filled with incense
427
00:33:06,511 --> 00:33:09,230
A new Lingkhor has been created
at Mcleodganj.
428
00:33:09,271 --> 00:33:12,820
It surrounds the Dalai Lama's
own residence up there.
429
00:33:13,271 --> 00:33:16,707
This replaces the sacred path lost at Lhasa.
430
00:33:17,471 --> 00:33:19,462
Pilgrims now walk it.
431
00:33:19,511 --> 00:33:22,230
This is a particularly busy day. It's a festival day.
432
00:33:22,511 --> 00:33:24,900
these days they just walk,
433
00:33:24,951 --> 00:33:29,422
but in the past pilgrims
would prostrate themselves along the route
434
00:33:29,471 --> 00:33:31,860
and that was done rather like this.
435
00:33:31,911 --> 00:33:33,902
One simply stops, says a prayer...
436
00:33:34,751 --> 00:33:38,710
...and then one measures one’s Length
on the ground
437
00:33:38,751 --> 00:33:42,949
right the way down to the bottom and up again.
438
00:33:44,631 --> 00:33:46,462
And so one goes.
439
00:33:46,511 --> 00:33:48,502
Right around the path.
440
00:33:49,271 --> 00:33:51,990
I put my feet where my head was
and down I go again.
441
00:33:52,431 --> 00:33:58,620
Difficult process, but it was to show respect
and compassion for all thinking beings,
442
00:33:58,671 --> 00:34:01,265
to remove negative forces
443
00:34:01,311 --> 00:34:05,224
and to gain merit, to help one
on one’s path to enlightenment.
444
00:34:12,031 --> 00:34:15,228
Jampa Choedon was a young nun
living in Lhasa at the time
445
00:34:17,551 --> 00:34:21,260
This is the Lingkhor,
the long circuit just behind Chakpori Hill.
446
00:34:21,311 --> 00:34:24,621
This shot is taken of the section
just below Chakpori Hill.
447
00:34:25,671 --> 00:34:29,744
There used to be people carving mantras
on stones, making clay statues,
448
00:34:29,791 --> 00:34:33,420
and many places
where you could make incense offerings.
449
00:34:33,471 --> 00:34:36,269
There would be many people
walking the Lingkhor.
450
00:34:36,871 --> 00:34:40,659
Down here there would be people
doing the half-sideways prostrations
451
00:34:40,711 --> 00:34:42,781
as well as the forward prostrations.
452
00:34:45,591 --> 00:34:48,264
I didn't manage to do any sideways prostrations
453
00:34:48,311 --> 00:34:51,906
but I managed to do one circuit
doing the forward prostrations.
454
00:34:52,991 --> 00:34:54,982
Here they are making the descent.
455
00:34:55,031 --> 00:34:59,024
Sometimes when you were prostrating here,
you would nearly fall down.
456
00:34:59,911 --> 00:35:01,902
I did a Lingkhor circuit.
457
00:35:03,271 --> 00:35:05,262
I took six days and a morning.
458
00:35:05,551 --> 00:35:10,261
In the midday sun, you couldn't do
the prostrations, so you would have a rest.
459
00:35:11,431 --> 00:35:14,707
Friends would bring you a meal
so you would have a lunch break.
460
00:35:14,751 --> 00:35:17,743
People would normally get up early
and start at dawn.
461
00:35:23,551 --> 00:35:28,545
Jampa Tsultrim and Tenzin Choenyi Tara
also did the Lingkhor circuit
462
00:35:30,631 --> 00:35:34,943
When they used to do the old Lingkhor circuit,
it used to take about two hours.
463
00:35:36,071 --> 00:35:40,667
But during Buddhist festivals,
people weren't satisfied with merely walking it,
464
00:35:40,711 --> 00:35:43,623
they would prostrate themselves
all the way round.
465
00:35:44,831 --> 00:35:47,220
So as we were talking about this yesterday,
466
00:35:47,271 --> 00:35:51,662
it turns out that we both happen to have done
the full body-Length prostrations
467
00:35:51,711 --> 00:35:53,702
and made the full circuit.
468
00:35:55,391 --> 00:35:59,270
It would vary how long it would take
to do the full body-Length prostrations,
469
00:35:59,311 --> 00:36:01,302
depending on the individual.
470
00:36:02,071 --> 00:36:04,585
the fast ones would do it in three to four days,
471
00:36:05,951 --> 00:36:07,942
others might do it in short stages
472
00:36:08,591 --> 00:36:12,743
so it would take about seven to eight days
to do the full circuit.
473
00:36:15,111 --> 00:36:17,989
Wherever you ended the day,
you'd leave a mark
474
00:36:18,031 --> 00:36:20,545
and then you'd resume from there the next day.
475
00:36:23,711 --> 00:36:26,100
He said yesterday he did it in four days.
476
00:36:26,951 --> 00:36:30,660
the reason for doing the prostrations
is to accumulate merit
477
00:36:30,711 --> 00:36:33,305
and to cleanse yourself of your negativities.
478
00:36:34,391 --> 00:36:36,507
It's an entirely spiritual activity.
479
00:36:41,671 --> 00:36:45,903
Now here are some pilgrims
who have come from villages far away.
480
00:36:46,791 --> 00:36:48,986
they have come for the Monlam festival.
481
00:36:49,031 --> 00:36:53,229
You can see that they are carrying
their provisions in packs on their back.
482
00:36:55,351 --> 00:36:58,309
There were people coming from
all different directions.
483
00:37:00,191 --> 00:37:02,466
Some would beg, some would offer prayers
484
00:37:02,511 --> 00:37:05,264
and some would give alms to the beggars.
485
00:37:06,191 --> 00:37:08,182
One was free to do what one wished.
486
00:37:10,391 --> 00:37:13,986
You would give soup, tea or money
to earn merit.
487
00:37:16,551 --> 00:37:19,941
There’s somebody ladling out some tsampa
for the beggars.
488
00:37:23,431 --> 00:37:26,309
On the day to celebrate
the Buddha's enlightenment
489
00:37:26,351 --> 00:37:28,421
the Lingkhor is especially crowded
490
00:37:28,471 --> 00:37:30,462
Many people are begging for alms
491
00:37:31,111 --> 00:37:36,105
The giving of money food or tea
was very much part of the pilgrims’ practice
492
00:37:36,151 --> 00:37:38,142
and it still is today
493
00:37:39,191 --> 00:37:42,069
These days in Mcleodganj
the beggars are Indians
494
00:37:42,111 --> 00:37:45,660
and the pilgrims giving money
are Tibetan refugees
495
00:37:51,391 --> 00:37:56,306
On festival days the Cabinet and
senior civil official also walked the Lingkhor
496
00:37:56,951 --> 00:38:00,102
But they would get very hot
in their heavy ceremonial costumes
497
00:38:00,151 --> 00:38:03,461
and so would stop off at the British Mission
for a cup of tea
498
00:38:07,671 --> 00:38:12,381
Historically the British and Chinese
were officially represented in Tibet
499
00:38:12,431 --> 00:38:14,422
British pressure to allow trading
500
00:38:14,471 --> 00:38:18,225
had led to the establishment
of a new British Trade Mission in 1937
501
00:38:18,271 --> 00:38:22,742
and in the mid 1940s
a Chinese representative arrived in Lhasa
502
00:38:23,871 --> 00:38:28,740
Relations with the British were cordial
while they were more tense with the Chinese
503
00:38:30,271 --> 00:38:34,867
Dr Tsunglien Shen seen here
being welcomed by Jigme Terring
504
00:38:34,911 --> 00:38:36,867
the Tibetan finance minister
505
00:38:36,911 --> 00:38:40,267
was a representative
of the Chinese Nationalist government
506
00:38:40,911 --> 00:38:44,381
At home China was in the midst
of a bloody civil war
507
00:38:44,431 --> 00:38:46,865
between the Nationalists and the Communists
508
00:38:50,551 --> 00:38:54,510
Life in Lhasa continued
according to ancient custom and practice
509
00:38:54,551 --> 00:38:59,625
The Dalai Lama lived in the Potala during the
winter and the Norbulingka during the summer
510
00:38:59,671 --> 00:39:03,266
Twice a year the civil and religious hierarchy
accompanied him
511
00:39:03,311 --> 00:39:05,302
on his move from palace to palace
512
00:39:08,471 --> 00:39:10,939
Identified by the peacock feathered umbrella
513
00:39:10,991 --> 00:39:13,789
which accompanied his sedan chair
or palanquin
514
00:39:13,831 --> 00:39:18,222
the whole population of Lhasa
watched silently for a glimpse of His Holiness
515
00:39:29,791 --> 00:39:33,704
At the front of the procession,
there would be the lower rank officials,
516
00:39:33,751 --> 00:39:38,541
and they would get higher and higher
the nearer they got to His Holiness’s palanquin.
517
00:39:40,111 --> 00:39:43,945
the front column are the monk civil servants,
in order of importance,
518
00:39:43,991 --> 00:39:47,267
up to the cabinet ministers
who ride alongside His Holiness.
519
00:39:49,391 --> 00:39:54,704
Behind the palanquin are his two personal
tutors and then his immediate family members.
520
00:39:56,111 --> 00:39:59,786
the lay civil officials bring up the rear
at the end of the procession,
521
00:39:59,831 --> 00:40:02,345
according to one’s rank and position.
522
00:40:03,191 --> 00:40:08,219
It was the same protocol as when you would
have an official audience with His Holiness.
523
00:40:08,271 --> 00:40:12,264
As a junior civil servant, my turn
would come somewhere at the very end.
524
00:40:16,711 --> 00:40:18,827
I went to see the Dalai Lama many times.
525
00:40:19,231 --> 00:40:21,506
We would stand on both sides of the route.
526
00:40:23,591 --> 00:40:25,661
Because he travelled in a palanquin,
527
00:40:25,711 --> 00:40:28,623
you'd only be able to get
occasional glances of him.
528
00:40:31,551 --> 00:40:33,860
We used to also stand in line with the crowd
529
00:40:33,911 --> 00:40:38,587
and view... and get a blessing from His Holiness
while he was in the palanquin
530
00:40:38,631 --> 00:40:40,508
because everything was so silent,
531
00:40:41,231 --> 00:40:45,543
incense burning and people very quiet
and trying hard to get a glimpse of him.
532
00:40:46,631 --> 00:40:51,182
And at the end, they would have the army band
coming, which was more fun.
533
00:40:52,511 --> 00:40:55,264
A lot of excitement then.
534
00:40:58,671 --> 00:41:01,390
Oh, that young monk.
535
00:41:02,151 --> 00:41:05,348
I think, out of curiosity, looking.
536
00:41:06,071 --> 00:41:09,905
In any cash, from my childhood, from that age
537
00:41:09,951 --> 00:41:12,943
I always smiled with people, with public.
538
00:41:13,951 --> 00:41:16,590
So people also say they love my smile.
539
00:41:16,991 --> 00:41:22,304
So, whenever I looked like that,
the people expressed some kind of...
540
00:41:22,351 --> 00:41:24,342
What do you say?
541
00:41:24,391 --> 00:41:26,382
Expression of joy.
542
00:41:28,111 --> 00:41:31,421
I think around ten years old, around ten,
543
00:41:32,111 --> 00:41:38,220
when I look at this, I feel that people consider
the reincarnation of high lama.
544
00:41:38,551 --> 00:41:43,306
Actually, that young boy, I think,
only know how to play.
545
00:41:46,911 --> 00:41:48,902
So there is big contrast.
546
00:41:55,831 --> 00:42:00,063
These days there isn't quite the same spectacle
when the Dalai Lama travel
547
00:42:00,511 --> 00:42:02,866
Although lots of devotees turn out to see him
548
00:42:02,911 --> 00:42:05,584
his bodyguards are now armed
with walkie talkies
549
00:42:05,631 --> 00:42:08,828
and he travel in a modest
though bulletproof car
550
00:42:25,751 --> 00:42:29,539
Tibetan Buddhists have retained
much of their culture and religious practice
551
00:42:29,591 --> 00:42:31,582
since going into exile
552
00:42:31,631 --> 00:42:36,705
But life in Tibet before the Chinese occupation
was significantly different in many ways
553
00:42:43,911 --> 00:42:47,301
The Tibetan year
is marked by many religious festival
554
00:42:47,351 --> 00:42:51,060
Here at the Dalai Lama's own
Namgyal monastery,
555
00:42:51,111 --> 00:42:54,183
thousands of people gather to celebrate
New Year.
556
00:42:54,231 --> 00:42:57,382
This takes place in lath February, early March,
557
00:42:57,431 --> 00:43:02,824
but, sadly, far fewer festivals are
celebrated now than there were in Tibet.
558
00:43:06,751 --> 00:43:10,790
The King's New Year festival
celebrates the Dalai Lama's position
559
00:43:10,831 --> 00:43:12,901
as the ruler of both church and state
560
00:43:14,511 --> 00:43:19,141
The high official wear robes
whose design dates back to the 7th century
561
00:43:19,591 --> 00:43:22,503
Along with ancient ornaments
of amber and coral
562
00:43:22,551 --> 00:43:24,826
which had been traded along the silk route
563
00:43:24,871 --> 00:43:27,431
and had originally come from
the Mediterranean
564
00:43:29,231 --> 00:43:31,699
The turquoise charm boxes around their necks
565
00:43:31,751 --> 00:43:35,949
and the golden bar encased in turquoise
which reaches their waist
566
00:43:35,991 --> 00:43:37,982
is so heavy it must be carried
567
00:43:41,231 --> 00:43:46,021
The ordinary people of Lhasa gather at
the foot of the Potala to watch the sky dancing
568
00:43:46,551 --> 00:43:50,590
A spectacle in which a man scales a rope
up to a tall wooden mast
569
00:43:50,631 --> 00:43:54,704
stands precariously on a small platform
and then spins himself around
570
00:43:56,551 --> 00:44:01,579
The performer is traditionally a man from one
of the small villages in the region of Tsang
571
00:44:01,631 --> 00:44:05,988
It 's done in retribution for their resistance
to the rule of the 5th Dalai Lama
572
00:44:06,031 --> 00:44:09,262
There's a saying in Tsang
that mothers don't die from illnesses
573
00:44:09,311 --> 00:44:12,826
but from worry that their sons might be taken
for the sky dance
574
00:44:19,751 --> 00:44:21,662
The casting out of the votive offering
575
00:44:21,711 --> 00:44:25,226
was one of the biggest and most elaborate
of the celebrations
576
00:44:25,271 --> 00:44:29,150
This ceremonial military manoeuvre
was known as the coiling snake
577
00:44:29,751 --> 00:44:32,060
With civil official acting as marshal
578
00:44:32,151 --> 00:44:36,429
500 infantry in chain mail
move in a zigzag formation
579
00:44:36,471 --> 00:44:38,541
while another formation circles it
580
00:44:39,551 --> 00:44:41,940
Seemingly chaotic it was highly organised
581
00:44:41,991 --> 00:44:44,869
and the troops rehearsed for months
to perfect it
582
00:44:56,111 --> 00:44:59,581
Hundreds of monks arrive
carrying green drums and cymbal
583
00:45:08,551 --> 00:45:10,587
Next the torma are brought out
584
00:45:10,631 --> 00:45:15,989
Tall sculptures which have a grinning skull
on top and represent all evil spirits
585
00:45:19,391 --> 00:45:22,508
Wearing an ornate head dress
the Nechung oracle
586
00:45:22,551 --> 00:45:26,829
a monk who is chosen for his psychic powers
appears in a state of possession
587
00:45:27,711 --> 00:45:30,179
The oracle 's helmet and costume are so heavy
588
00:45:30,231 --> 00:45:34,509
that the medium can hardly walk in them
when he is not in a trancelike state
589
00:45:35,231 --> 00:45:38,701
He races around chaotically
chasing the tormas into a clearing
590
00:45:38,751 --> 00:45:43,302
accompanied by hundreds of monks
and most of the population of Lhasa
591
00:45:44,631 --> 00:45:48,226
When the oracle arrives
he shoots a burning arrow into bonfires
592
00:45:48,271 --> 00:45:51,547
which contain the evil spirits
and they're set ablaze
593
00:46:03,751 --> 00:46:08,427
Many of the religious festival had an additional
civil or governmental element
594
00:46:09,431 --> 00:46:13,709
At the review at Trapchi the Tibetan cavalry
assemble in front of the Cabinet
595
00:46:13,751 --> 00:46:15,742
and government official
596
00:46:15,791 --> 00:46:18,589
The cavalry wears chain mail
steel breast plates
597
00:46:18,631 --> 00:46:21,020
and helmets with peacock feathers on them
598
00:46:23,151 --> 00:46:27,906
The standard bearers wear special helmets
which have 'Allah ' inscribed on them in gold
599
00:46:27,951 --> 00:46:31,148
thought to date back to 8th century contact
with Arabs
600
00:46:31,991 --> 00:46:34,903
They carry tall lances
wrapped in painted banners
601
00:46:34,951 --> 00:46:38,466
said to have been given by the army
of Genghis Khan 's grandson
602
00:46:40,431 --> 00:46:42,422
The Cabinet wears ornate robes
603
00:46:42,471 --> 00:46:48,228
their fur trimmed hats have silk crowns with
ornaments on top of coral turquoise and gold
604
00:46:50,311 --> 00:46:55,431
A government official followed by four junibr
official makes his report to the Cabinet
605
00:46:55,471 --> 00:46:57,939
announcing the number of men and horses
606
00:46:58,711 --> 00:47:01,509
Shewo Dargye had to attend the review
every year
607
00:47:04,551 --> 00:47:08,339
these official functions tended to be
rather long, drawn out affairs.
608
00:47:08,991 --> 00:47:12,540
However, each one of us
had our own responsibilities to perform.
609
00:47:13,551 --> 00:47:15,542
As you can see here in the film,
610
00:47:15,591 --> 00:47:20,665
when we junior accountants had to present
the inspection report at the review at Trapchi.
611
00:47:22,191 --> 00:47:25,581
We had to give the full list of horsemen
and their equipment.
612
00:47:26,911 --> 00:47:31,507
So I'd feel very tens from early in the morning
as I had to present the report aloud,
613
00:47:31,551 --> 00:47:33,701
in front of a huge gathering of people.
614
00:47:38,111 --> 00:47:42,980
I would worry that I would make mistakes
and embarrass myself, so I felt scared.
615
00:47:47,311 --> 00:47:50,587
I'd be so terrified that time would just fly past.
616
00:47:53,711 --> 00:47:56,145
But when I had no responsibilities,
617
00:47:56,191 --> 00:47:59,786
the ceremony would get tedious
and seemed to go on forever.
618
00:48:02,431 --> 00:48:06,629
So we young ones would quietly sneak out
the back for a cigarette and a chat.
619
00:48:10,711 --> 00:48:15,831
Another military event the 'gallop round the
fort' was slightly more exciting to attend
620
00:48:18,231 --> 00:48:21,109
these are the special Monlam festival cavalry.
621
00:48:21,751 --> 00:48:24,140
Two Yaso generals command them.
622
00:48:24,191 --> 00:48:27,581
Together they are being prepared
to lead the presentation.
623
00:48:29,991 --> 00:48:32,300
There were three targets.
624
00:48:32,351 --> 00:48:35,502
the riders had to ride past, fire a gun,
625
00:48:35,551 --> 00:48:38,509
shoot an arrow and spear each one.
626
00:48:39,111 --> 00:48:44,026
If they managed to hit each of the targets,
they would be presented with a victory scarf.
627
00:48:49,471 --> 00:48:53,146
The targets are hung perilously close
to the spectators' heads
628
00:48:57,671 --> 00:49:02,062
There is frighteningly little crowd control
and serious accidents result
629
00:49:05,551 --> 00:49:09,339
Finally the competitors line up
to receive their prayer scarves
630
00:49:10,591 --> 00:49:14,061
The event ends when they perform
a special Mongolian salute
631
00:49:20,191 --> 00:49:22,386
Other pursuits were more gentle
632
00:49:22,951 --> 00:49:25,704
The people of Lhasa rich and poor alike
633
00:49:25,751 --> 00:49:29,630
took advantage of the summer festival
to enjoy their environment
634
00:49:31,391 --> 00:49:35,179
During the month of celebrations
to honour the Buddha's enlightenment
635
00:49:35,231 --> 00:49:39,986
the government ministers and official
are rowed around a lake to make offerings
636
00:49:40,031 --> 00:49:43,944
After they'd had their turn
the ordinary pilgrims were allowed a go
637
00:49:45,671 --> 00:49:48,743
It 's hard to believe that war was raging
in the rest of the world
638
00:49:48,791 --> 00:49:52,261
as the people of Lhasa set off
for their annual picnic season
639
00:49:58,591 --> 00:50:01,151
South of Lhasa there were many parks.
640
00:50:01,511 --> 00:50:04,628
During the first two weeks in May,
it was picnic season.
641
00:50:06,871 --> 00:50:10,420
the quality of the tent
depended on how rich you were.
642
00:50:12,191 --> 00:50:15,388
Poor people would just rig up a sheet
or a small tent.
643
00:50:15,431 --> 00:50:17,422
But everyone went.
644
00:50:19,751 --> 00:50:22,823
People might picnic for one day or for longer,
645
00:50:22,871 --> 00:50:26,989
but on the 15th, everybody would go
to their local place of worship
646
00:50:27,031 --> 00:50:29,022
and then come to the picnic.
647
00:50:33,191 --> 00:50:35,182
(Traditional singing)
648
00:50:42,111 --> 00:50:46,707
The Nationalist Kuomintang government
in China maintained its mission in Lhasa
649
00:50:46,751 --> 00:50:49,345
and even joined in with the Tibetan festival
650
00:50:49,791 --> 00:50:54,307
However at home the Communists were
growing in power and a civil war was raging
651
00:50:58,431 --> 00:51:01,901
You see the flag there?
It's the flag of the Chinese Kuomintang.
652
00:51:02,191 --> 00:51:07,743
In those days, the Chinese in Tibet were mainly
the official representatives of the Kuomintang.
653
00:51:08,471 --> 00:51:10,780
the present Chinese hadn't arrived yet.
654
00:51:13,151 --> 00:51:17,144
Here you can see some people
performing the incense burning ceremony.
655
00:51:17,991 --> 00:51:21,870
And here are some monks
playing the long horns and oboes.
656
00:51:23,591 --> 00:51:25,980
This is a group of Nangma musicians.
657
00:51:27,271 --> 00:51:29,546
they had their own musical association.
658
00:51:33,271 --> 00:51:38,265
I know one of them, the man wearing
dark glasses, he’s called Namgyal.
659
00:51:38,631 --> 00:51:41,543
He was a very well known musician in Lhasa.
660
00:51:42,991 --> 00:51:45,061
He was a brilliant harmonica player,
661
00:51:45,551 --> 00:51:48,668
he also played the Tibetan Lute
and other instruments.
662
00:51:50,151 --> 00:51:53,587
He was blind
and that's why he wore dark glasses.
663
00:51:54,551 --> 00:51:58,339
Everyone knew him by his nickname,
Namgyal No Eyes.
664
00:51:59,991 --> 00:52:01,982
(Traditional singing)
665
00:52:04,071 --> 00:52:08,064
Another important summer event
and one of the Dalai Lama's favourites
666
00:52:08,111 --> 00:52:11,706
was the annual opera festival
held at the Norbulingka Palace
667
00:52:12,551 --> 00:52:14,746
DALAI LAMA: During the summer
at Norbulingka,
668
00:52:14,791 --> 00:52:17,146
I think around July or August,
669
00:52:17,911 --> 00:52:20,027
was the summer festival.
670
00:52:20,071 --> 00:52:22,062
the folk dance,
671
00:52:22,711 --> 00:52:28,502
and also every day the military performance.
672
00:52:28,551 --> 00:52:33,227
So, like any other child,
I loved the military performance.
673
00:52:34,871 --> 00:52:38,261
they were well organised.
they were quite smart, like that.
674
00:52:43,831 --> 00:52:46,504
Opera, Tibetan unique opera.
675
00:52:47,991 --> 00:52:52,826
So, during that period, I have no lessons.
676
00:52:53,911 --> 00:52:55,902
Free holiday.
677
00:52:56,711 --> 00:53:01,262
Then my mother often cam,
because, during that period,
678
00:53:01,311 --> 00:53:08,661
my family stay in residence in Norbulingka.
679
00:53:09,711 --> 00:53:11,702
they stay there a few days.
680
00:53:13,191 --> 00:53:14,943
So, I'm very happy.
681
00:53:19,591 --> 00:53:22,059
Then, after five days, the festival finish.
682
00:53:23,671 --> 00:53:25,662
the next day my lessons started.
683
00:53:26,471 --> 00:53:28,462
At the same time, on the fifth day evening,
684
00:53:28,511 --> 00:53:30,502
my mother departs.
685
00:53:30,551 --> 00:53:32,542
So I feel very...
686
00:53:32,591 --> 00:53:34,582
Very sad.
687
00:53:36,271 --> 00:53:40,150
That's the child experience. Like that.
688
00:53:44,711 --> 00:53:46,588
For the commoners in Lhasa
689
00:53:46,631 --> 00:53:50,943
participation in some festival events
was not really a matter of choice
690
00:53:52,311 --> 00:53:54,063
For the wrestling and weight lifting
691
00:53:54,111 --> 00:53:58,309
the contestants were all from the
Dalai Lama's personal bodyguard regiment
692
00:53:58,351 --> 00:54:01,582
though it 's hard to believe
given their size and stature
693
00:54:04,351 --> 00:54:08,663
The wrestling was a particularly unpopular duty
as they had to wear loincloths
694
00:54:08,711 --> 00:54:12,101
It was deemed to be shameful
appearing semi-naked in public
695
00:54:12,151 --> 00:54:14,540
and especially in front of your superiors
696
00:54:15,871 --> 00:54:18,783
For most shyness meant
they were covered up quickly
697
00:54:18,831 --> 00:54:21,789
but some seemed to rather enjoy it
698
00:54:24,991 --> 00:54:28,666
At the same time as the horse race
is being conducted around the city
699
00:54:28,711 --> 00:54:30,702
there is also a foot race
700
00:54:31,271 --> 00:54:36,265
A motley group of men run in brightly coloured
outfits somewhat un enthusiastically
701
00:54:36,791 --> 00:54:40,670
The race is compulsory
and is performed as a duty to their landlords
702
00:54:47,791 --> 00:54:49,622
For the Tibetan aristocrats
703
00:54:49,671 --> 00:54:54,187
there were lots of social events to attend
at the British Mission or Dekyi Lingka
704
00:54:54,911 --> 00:54:57,505
In true colonial style tea was served
705
00:54:57,551 --> 00:54:59,542
and even darts were played
706
00:55:02,831 --> 00:55:06,744
Summer was a period where everybody
had a party to celebrate the summer
707
00:55:06,791 --> 00:55:08,668
and to be outdoors.
708
00:55:08,711 --> 00:55:12,101
This person playing the dart
is my grandmother's youngest...
709
00:55:13,191 --> 00:55:17,104
...one of the younger sisters
playing darts, yes.
710
00:55:20,471 --> 00:55:25,909
Now this looks like a party at the
British legation or the British Mission.
711
00:55:25,951 --> 00:55:27,942
the Dhkyi Lingka.
712
00:55:27,991 --> 00:55:29,982
It's a beautiful garden,
713
00:55:30,031 --> 00:55:33,341
and the servant at the back
is wearing the special costumes
714
00:55:33,391 --> 00:55:37,430
which servants in the Sikkim royal family
used to wear.
715
00:55:37,471 --> 00:55:42,420
So, I think very much
they wore this costume at the formal parties.
716
00:55:43,271 --> 00:55:48,140
And this looks very much like
the senior Mrs Lalu.
717
00:55:48,191 --> 00:55:51,627
See was a very special lady.
718
00:55:51,671 --> 00:55:53,980
See was actually a nun.
719
00:55:54,031 --> 00:55:59,469
And see fell in love with a member of
the 13th Dalai Lama's family.
720
00:56:00,271 --> 00:56:04,549
And, anyhow, see was very kind,
and see did everything on such a grand scale.
721
00:56:04,591 --> 00:56:08,584
And see used to visit once a year
722
00:56:08,631 --> 00:56:10,428
at our home.
723
00:56:11,591 --> 00:56:15,470
The British Mission closed
when India gained independence in 1947
724
00:56:17,911 --> 00:56:23,031
Tibet still had no status as an independent
nation and was not recognised internationally
725
00:56:23,871 --> 00:56:28,342
The civil war between the Communists
and the Nationalists in China continued
726
00:56:28,391 --> 00:56:31,781
The Tibetan government realised
that if the Communists won
727
00:56:31,831 --> 00:56:33,742
they would not tolerate their religion
728
00:56:33,791 --> 00:56:36,749
However they didn't want to be seen
to be taking sides
729
00:56:36,791 --> 00:56:40,386
so they politely asked the Nationalist Chinese
to leave Tibet
730
00:56:40,871 --> 00:56:46,343
They were sent off with the utmost courtesy with
parties and free transport to the Indian border
731
00:56:48,151 --> 00:56:50,540
The small Tibetan army was reorganised
732
00:56:50,591 --> 00:56:53,663
New regiments were formed
and they were reequipped
733
00:56:55,031 --> 00:56:58,103
In 1949 the Chinese civil war ended
734
00:56:58,151 --> 00:57:00,870
and the People 's Republic of China
was established
735
00:57:00,911 --> 00:57:02,902
under Mao Tsetung's chairmanship
736
00:57:04,191 --> 00:57:06,182
One of their first objectives
737
00:57:06,231 --> 00:57:09,746
was to bring Tibet back into
what they called the 'motherland'
738
00:57:09,791 --> 00:57:12,464
On the 6th October 1950,
739
00:57:13,191 --> 00:57:18,345
40,000 Chinese soldiers of the
People’s Liberation Army invaded Tibet.
740
00:57:19,071 --> 00:57:23,747
the small Tibetan army was quickly
overwhelmed and forced to surrender.
741
00:57:24,471 --> 00:57:27,861
the issue of the invasion was raised
with the United Nations
742
00:57:27,911 --> 00:57:29,867
but nothing was done.
743
00:57:29,911 --> 00:57:35,463
Indeed, the international community
did shamefully little to help Tibet in its plight.
744
00:57:36,191 --> 00:57:41,584
So, the Tibetans had nothing to do
but to negotiate with the Chinese.
745
00:57:41,631 --> 00:57:44,350
To do this they needed a sole ruler.
746
00:57:44,871 --> 00:57:48,386
So the Dalai Lama,
still with two years of training ahead of him,
747
00:57:48,431 --> 00:57:52,549
was rapidly given the power to rule in Tibet.
748
00:57:53,271 --> 00:58:01,110
Incredible this, a 16 year-old boy was suddenly
made the temporal and spiritual ruler of Tibet.
749
00:58:03,551 --> 00:58:07,624
The teenager acted quickly
and sent delegations to Britain and America
750
00:58:07,671 --> 00:58:11,061
But it was the height of the Col War
and they refused to help
751
00:58:11,671 --> 00:58:13,980
The Chinese however were happy to talk
752
00:58:14,631 --> 00:58:17,304
Fearful that Chinese troops
would invade Lhasa
753
00:58:17,351 --> 00:58:21,867
the Dalai Lama instructed Tibetan official
in Beijing to begin negotiations
754
00:58:22,551 --> 00:58:24,542
The 17point agreement
755
00:58:24,591 --> 00:58:27,867
in which Tibet was defined as being
part of the Chinese Motherland
756
00:58:27,911 --> 00:58:31,108
was signed in Beijing
without the Dalai Lama's consent
757
00:58:31,511 --> 00:58:34,105
The 'reunification ' as the Chinese called it
758
00:58:34,151 --> 00:58:39,225
was completed when the invading forces
reached Lhasa in October 1951
759
00:58:39,271 --> 00:58:41,262
and Tibet was conquered
760
00:58:42,911 --> 00:58:45,948
Samdhong Rinpoche was in Lhasa at the time
761
00:58:46,751 --> 00:58:55,750
At that time, there were quite a sizable number
of Chinese military persons
762
00:58:55,791 --> 00:58:59,386
arrived in Tibet.
763
00:58:59,431 --> 00:59:04,903
And they set up loudspeaker radio
in Lhasa town.
764
00:59:04,951 --> 00:59:11,982
So there was a lot of wires
going over the houses
765
00:59:12,031 --> 00:59:14,022
and there’s a big loudspeaker,
766
00:59:14,071 --> 00:59:21,341
so it was not a radio
but just propaganda through all the town
767
00:59:21,391 --> 00:59:23,302
covered by the loudspeakers.
768
00:59:26,431 --> 00:59:29,389
After the Chinese arrived in 1951,
769
00:59:29,431 --> 00:59:33,822
everyone felt that they had lost their way,
they didn't know what to do.
770
00:59:34,191 --> 00:59:37,581
There was a real feeling of tension
and uneasiness in Lhasa.
771
00:59:37,631 --> 00:59:41,146
the Chinese were becoming
more and more oppressive by the day.
772
00:59:41,631 --> 00:59:46,944
His Holiness was in a very difficult position,
in the face of the military power of the Chinese.
773
00:59:50,111 --> 00:59:52,102
Rather than resist Chinese rule
774
00:59:52,151 --> 00:59:55,621
the Dalai Lama attempts
to make the 17point agreement work
775
00:59:56,111 --> 00:59:58,671
As it was meant to allow
the Tibetan government
776
00:59:58,711 --> 01:00:00,622
to continue running its own country
777
01:00:00,671 --> 01:00:04,300
for the next three years he set about
introducing social and land reforms
778
01:00:04,351 --> 01:00:07,343
Attempting to 'propel Tibet
into the 20th century'
779
01:00:08,511 --> 01:00:13,027
However he still had ancient and highly
demanding spiritual duties to perform
780
01:00:13,551 --> 01:00:16,623
The Kalachakra ceremony or 'Wheel of Time'
781
01:00:16,671 --> 01:00:21,062
is one of the most complex systems
of theory and practice in Tibetan Buddhism
782
01:00:21,551 --> 01:00:26,102
The 17yearol Dalai Lama
was initiated into this Tantric tradition
783
01:00:26,151 --> 01:00:30,144
in front of hundreds of official and monks
at the Norbulingka Palace
784
01:00:31,111 --> 01:00:37,300
I think this is the first time
of Kalachakra initiation at Norbulingka.
785
01:00:38,351 --> 01:00:40,342
I think, 16, 17.
786
01:00:41,391 --> 01:00:47,102
I already took the responsibility
of temporal power.
787
01:00:52,071 --> 01:00:55,666
Oh, bless me, here comes His Holiness,
the Dalai Lama.
788
01:00:56,551 --> 01:00:59,782
Here he is receiving the Mandala offering
for a long life.
789
01:00:59,831 --> 01:01:03,221
He’s looking so young.
He’s not wearing glasses yet.
790
01:01:05,031 --> 01:01:07,022
He must be 16 or 17.
791
01:01:10,351 --> 01:01:14,549
Here is the Lord Abbot, the elder brother
of His Holiness, Lobsang Samten.
792
01:01:17,231 --> 01:01:19,222
It must be inside the Norbulingka.
793
01:01:19,951 --> 01:01:22,260
This is during the Kalachakra teachings.
794
01:01:25,671 --> 01:01:28,105
It looks like the people
are throwing scarves forward
795
01:01:28,151 --> 01:01:31,223
to request the teachings
after the Mandala ceremony.
796
01:01:34,311 --> 01:01:37,906
You'd say prayers,
then everyone would throw scarves forward.
797
01:01:40,831 --> 01:01:43,061
It was what everyone did in Tibet,
798
01:01:43,111 --> 01:01:45,625
but these days, His Holiness discourages it.
799
01:01:50,711 --> 01:01:55,944
In 1954 the Dalai Lama received an invitation
from the Chinese to go to Beijing
800
01:01:57,431 --> 01:02:00,901
Most Tibetans were against the idea
fearing for his safety
801
01:02:01,231 --> 01:02:03,791
The Dalai Lama however
was determined to go
802
01:02:03,831 --> 01:02:07,824
seeing it as an opportunity
to be able to talk to Chairman Mao in person
803
01:02:08,351 --> 01:02:12,185
Then I felt, not only me, but some officials
804
01:02:12,231 --> 01:02:14,222
some high officials...
805
01:02:15,271 --> 01:02:17,262
now two opinions.
806
01:02:18,151 --> 01:02:21,382
One opinion: Now this is the right time.
807
01:02:22,591 --> 01:02:24,582
Should go to Beijing
808
01:02:24,631 --> 01:02:27,464
and meet high officials, high leaders.
809
01:02:29,791 --> 01:02:33,864
And some were very much reluctant,
very much against.
810
01:02:34,751 --> 01:02:36,742
I think out of fear.
811
01:02:38,031 --> 01:02:42,821
My own opinion is now better go there.
812
01:02:47,391 --> 01:02:52,340
Eventually it was decided he could go
provided he returned within one year.
813
01:02:54,231 --> 01:02:58,429
His Holiness himself promised the people
he would return within the year.
814
01:03:02,791 --> 01:03:05,988
I heard that when he was about to cross
the Tsangpo River,
815
01:03:06,031 --> 01:03:09,148
people had come from Lhasa
in their finest clothes.
816
01:03:11,831 --> 01:03:16,302
In Tibet, it is a custom for women to dress up
for special journeys for good luck.
817
01:03:19,151 --> 01:03:22,621
they all crowded along the river bank,
looking very anxious.
818
01:03:23,351 --> 01:03:27,822
Some were even about to throw themselves
into the river in sorrow and desperation.
819
01:03:30,991 --> 01:03:36,384
This is actually departing Lhasa to China,
820
01:03:36,431 --> 01:03:38,422
I think, this one.
821
01:03:38,471 --> 01:03:41,349
You know, I like missions,
822
01:03:41,391 --> 01:03:43,382
all these modern things.
823
01:03:43,431 --> 01:03:45,422
So I love to visit China.
824
01:03:47,231 --> 01:03:49,699
But at the same time, not just like tourists,
825
01:03:49,751 --> 01:03:52,709
also have some responsibility.
826
01:03:53,911 --> 01:03:55,822
So not very certain.
827
01:03:55,871 --> 01:03:57,862
So all kinds of mixed feelings.
828
01:03:59,991 --> 01:04:01,982
Some hope, some doubts,
829
01:04:02,031 --> 01:04:04,022
some fears, some...
830
01:04:06,151 --> 01:04:08,142
Indecisive. Like that.
831
01:04:08,191 --> 01:04:10,182
And also some excitement.
832
01:04:11,511 --> 01:04:15,424
The Dalai Lama attended the
first National Chinese People 's congress
833
01:04:15,471 --> 01:04:18,543
which included ten seats
for the Tibetan delegation
834
01:04:18,591 --> 01:04:19,990
He was impressed by Mao
835
01:04:20,031 --> 01:04:24,547
and felt a great affinity with many of
the egalitarian principles of communism
836
01:04:24,591 --> 01:04:29,984
However at their last meeting Mao wasted
no time in giving his true opinion of Tibet
837
01:04:30,031 --> 01:04:32,147
and its future under Chinese rule
838
01:04:32,191 --> 01:04:36,662
As the Dalai Lama left Mao turned to him
and said 'Religion is poison '
839
01:04:40,711 --> 01:04:42,747
The Dalai Lama returned home
840
01:04:42,791 --> 01:04:47,148
News reached him that the Chinese authorities
in Eastern Tibet were confiscating lands
841
01:04:47,191 --> 01:04:51,389
belonging to monasteries
and redistributing them amongst themselves
842
01:04:52,111 --> 01:04:54,102
The situation deteriorated
843
01:04:54,151 --> 01:04:58,463
Fighting broke out between the Chinese army
and Tibetan freedom fighters
844
01:04:58,511 --> 01:05:01,184
and refugees began pouring into Lhasa
845
01:05:02,791 --> 01:05:08,104
In the midst of this tense atmosphere the Dalai
Lama still had to take his final monastic exams
846
01:05:09,431 --> 01:05:11,899
The main focus of which were public debates
847
01:05:21,831 --> 01:05:26,063
Debate is the rigorous discussion
of Buddha's teachings
848
01:05:26,111 --> 01:05:28,102
Everything is challenged
849
01:05:30,951 --> 01:05:35,183
Debate is an ancient tradition within Buddhism
which is still practised today
850
01:05:35,231 --> 01:05:37,028
Although the monks and now nuns
851
01:05:37,071 --> 01:05:40,984
are somewhat more vigorous in their style
than they were in the 1950s
852
01:05:41,031 --> 01:05:43,022
(Animated conversation)
853
01:05:51,711 --> 01:05:56,227
These monks are arguing over
their personal interpretation of Buddhist texts
854
01:05:57,071 --> 01:06:02,509
The skill is in arguing and using logic
and your own analysis to back up your points
855
01:06:03,271 --> 01:06:05,660
They are punctuated with claps of the hand
856
01:06:05,911 --> 01:06:07,902
The respondent must then reply
857
01:06:16,631 --> 01:06:19,623
the culmination of the Dalai Lama's
18 years of study
858
01:06:19,671 --> 01:06:22,902
was an examination for
a doctorate in Buddhist philosophy.
859
01:06:22,951 --> 01:06:27,024
This started with debates
at three of the largest monasteries in Tibet.
860
01:06:35,591 --> 01:06:38,708
Drepung Monastery
had 10000 resident monks
861
01:06:39,391 --> 01:06:43,270
8000 of them were squeezed into the square
to see the Dalai Lama
862
01:06:43,311 --> 01:06:46,747
as he arrived with his retinue
to take his first exam
863
01:06:53,071 --> 01:06:55,062
The monastery owned local estates
864
01:06:55,111 --> 01:06:59,741
and had some 20000 tied peasants
who worked the land and paid them taxes
865
01:07:00,391 --> 01:07:05,511
The revenue paid for the prayer sessions
and festival which dominated monastic life
866
01:07:06,431 --> 01:07:09,389
Feeding the monks for big events
like the examinations
867
01:07:09,431 --> 01:07:12,070
was a huge if somewhat rushed process
868
01:07:16,631 --> 01:07:19,099
The young monks run down
from the cookhouse
869
01:07:19,151 --> 01:07:23,542
carrying huge tubs of tsampa
for their brethren who are sitting in the square
870
01:07:25,191 --> 01:07:30,868
Tsampa is roasted barley flower mixed with
yak butter tea or water to make dough
871
01:07:41,951 --> 01:07:44,021
To celebrate His Holiness's presence
872
01:07:44,071 --> 01:07:47,188
the monks are also given prayer scarves
tea and money
873
01:07:55,431 --> 01:07:57,422
I am somewhere here.
874
01:07:57,471 --> 01:08:02,340
Somewhere amongst the second row
or third row, I should be.
875
01:08:02,391 --> 01:08:04,382
And this is a common sight.
876
01:08:04,431 --> 01:08:07,150
these are the government officials.
877
01:08:09,151 --> 01:08:16,865
Now His Holiness is offering the debate
to the two abbots.
878
01:08:19,311 --> 01:08:23,429
During his early life, he had to go to China,
879
01:08:23,471 --> 01:08:25,462
and he had to go to India.
880
01:08:25,511 --> 01:08:32,542
He had so many things to attend to,
he did not have time to study.
881
01:08:34,351 --> 01:08:38,264
Now, this abbot - top scholar. Mongolian.
882
01:08:38,311 --> 01:08:40,302
And also he...
883
01:08:42,831 --> 01:08:45,470
He asked a question very rapidly.
884
01:08:46,551 --> 01:08:48,542
(Mimics speed)
885
01:08:49,951 --> 01:08:52,749
So, I was a bit more nervous.
886
01:08:54,311 --> 01:08:57,747
So, I have little...
887
01:08:59,191 --> 01:09:03,742
...opportunity to think how to trick him.
888
01:09:05,471 --> 01:09:09,350
One top scholar very rapidly
used to put question after question.
889
01:09:09,391 --> 01:09:11,382
There’s no time!
890
01:09:12,231 --> 01:09:17,066
How to pretend, or how to defend like that.
891
01:09:18,231 --> 01:09:20,301
So, now, this is my turn at the debate.
892
01:09:23,111 --> 01:09:26,899
Of course we have received
a lot of teaching from His Holiness
893
01:09:26,951 --> 01:09:29,863
and we know he’s a very great scholar.
894
01:09:30,271 --> 01:09:34,628
But he was not joined in the monastic debate.
895
01:09:34,671 --> 01:09:39,825
We thought he may not be very sharp
in the debate.
896
01:09:39,911 --> 01:09:45,781
But, for the first time, we saw,
when he was examined by the abbots,
897
01:09:45,831 --> 01:09:49,141
he was brilliant,
898
01:09:49,191 --> 01:09:53,389
and absolutely sharp.
899
01:09:54,791 --> 01:09:59,945
Equal with those who were debating
in the monastery for a lifetime,
900
01:09:59,991 --> 01:10:04,587
and the abbots find it quite difficult
to debate with him.
901
01:10:11,551 --> 01:10:14,190
The next exam was at Sera Monastery
902
01:10:14,231 --> 01:10:17,303
The whole of the Dalai Lama's
government travelled with him
903
01:10:17,351 --> 01:10:21,264
allowing him to consult with them
about the growing tension in Lhasa
904
01:10:30,151 --> 01:10:34,030
At the same time he had to prepare for
the next series of debates
905
01:10:34,471 --> 01:10:37,986
But the abbots each had their own
individual style of arguing
906
01:10:41,471 --> 01:10:43,462
In Sera Monastery...
907
01:10:44,991 --> 01:10:47,380
You see, when you debate with the opponent,
908
01:10:49,991 --> 01:10:51,982
good scholar.
909
01:10:52,031 --> 01:10:54,306
Then their answer is something logical,
910
01:10:54,351 --> 01:11:01,780
or is something... valid and meaningful.
911
01:11:02,711 --> 01:11:06,021
In Sera Monastery, one abbot
was not that much of a scholar,
912
01:11:06,831 --> 01:11:08,025
not that top.
913
01:11:08,071 --> 01:11:10,585
So, you see, from my side, the preparation...
914
01:11:11,751 --> 01:11:15,585
If answer come this way:
Yes, this is the way to argue.
915
01:11:16,111 --> 01:11:23,142
If this way, answers come this kind of answer,
then, yes, already prepared.
916
01:11:23,871 --> 01:11:26,669
And his answer was an unexpected answer!
917
01:11:27,871 --> 01:11:31,261
So, then my tutor noticed that,
918
01:11:31,311 --> 01:11:34,542
and he very kindly stopped. Now finish.
919
01:11:36,551 --> 01:11:38,542
That was a tremendous relief.
920
01:11:46,871 --> 01:11:50,386
The last of the preliminary exams
was some distance from Lhasa
921
01:11:50,431 --> 01:11:52,422
at Ganden Monastery
922
01:11:53,191 --> 01:11:55,386
Ironically the examinations at Ganden
923
01:11:55,431 --> 01:11:58,628
proved to be a brief period of respite
for the Dalai Lama
924
01:12:01,351 --> 01:12:05,742
Thousands more refugees had fled the fighting
in the East and arrived in Lhasa
925
01:12:05,791 --> 01:12:09,306
A huge number were now camped around
the outskirts of the city
926
01:12:09,991 --> 01:12:14,462
Tensions with the occupying Chinese,
who'd been in Tibet for about nine years,
927
01:12:14,511 --> 01:12:15,864
were high.
928
01:12:15,911 --> 01:12:20,268
There were food shortages in Lhasa and
rumours about massacres in eastern Tibet
929
01:12:20,311 --> 01:12:23,508
and also rumours about
the destruction of sacred sites.
930
01:12:23,871 --> 01:12:27,989
Meanwhile, the Dalai Lama
still had his final exam to take.
931
01:12:30,711 --> 01:12:35,023
The Dalai Lama returned to Lhasa
and continued to prepare for his final exam
932
01:12:37,311 --> 01:12:40,826
Amidst increasingly disturbing reports
of Chinese atrocities
933
01:12:40,871 --> 01:12:43,339
he attempted to concentrate on his studies
934
01:12:43,671 --> 01:12:45,582
He took solace in Buddha's teachings
935
01:12:45,631 --> 01:12:48,429
that one's enemy is one's greatest teacher
936
01:12:48,471 --> 01:12:51,144
and to have compassion for all sentient beings
937
01:12:57,271 --> 01:12:59,421
The final exam was arranged to take place
938
01:12:59,471 --> 01:13:02,702
at the same time as
the Monlam New Year Festival
939
01:13:03,231 --> 01:13:08,100
There were 30000 monks in the city
and pilgrims were arriving from all over Tibet
940
01:13:10,071 --> 01:13:12,539
The Jokhang temple was full to bursting
941
01:13:12,951 --> 01:13:17,422
The cabinet civil official and all
the senior abbots and monks were present
942
01:13:22,071 --> 01:13:24,141
At that time, things were very tens.
943
01:13:24,511 --> 01:13:28,186
On the one hand, a very solemn
and grand ceremony was taking place.
944
01:13:28,231 --> 01:13:32,463
On the other hand, we were in
a very dangerous and tens situation.
945
01:13:35,071 --> 01:13:39,269
TENZIN CHOENYI TARA: There were a lot
of rumours about danger to his security.
946
01:13:39,831 --> 01:13:42,550
And the threat perception was very high.
947
01:13:43,471 --> 01:13:48,591
And, therefore, it was very tight security
arrangements than used to be there,
948
01:13:48,631 --> 01:13:50,747
and that was a bit annoying.
949
01:13:50,791 --> 01:13:52,782
And that was not...
950
01:13:54,711 --> 01:13:58,750
That was not in consonance with
the monastic atmosphere.
951
01:13:58,791 --> 01:14:02,670
So, a lot of soldiers with guns,
952
01:14:03,311 --> 01:14:07,224
and very attentive, with walkie-talkies.
953
01:14:07,271 --> 01:14:09,785
This is not familiar with the people.
954
01:14:10,431 --> 01:14:13,104
So that was tens,
955
01:14:13,511 --> 01:14:17,789
and also the joyful - these are going together.
956
01:14:19,311 --> 01:14:21,142
Gun emplacements were built.
957
01:14:21,191 --> 01:14:24,706
There were Chinese carrying rifles,
patrolling the rooftops opposite.
958
01:14:24,751 --> 01:14:28,141
Everyone, the government officials,
the clergy, the people
959
01:14:28,191 --> 01:14:31,149
were there for the religious function on the 13th.
960
01:14:31,191 --> 01:14:35,264
But they saw clearly the Chinese soldiers
walking around on the rooftops.
961
01:14:38,191 --> 01:14:40,864
I was involved in organising the event.
962
01:14:40,911 --> 01:14:45,063
In this emergency situation,
there was nothing we could do.
963
01:14:46,551 --> 01:14:51,750
We asked some of the monk officials
to disguise themselves as ordinary people
964
01:14:51,791 --> 01:14:54,510
and mingle with the public
and to act like spies.
965
01:14:58,991 --> 01:15:04,111
On the one hand, the ordinary people and the
aristocrats were all dressed up in their finest.
966
01:15:04,671 --> 01:15:09,825
On the other, right next door, the Chinese were
making elaborate military preparations,
967
01:15:09,871 --> 01:15:14,228
with soldiers carrying rifles
as if they might attack at any moment.
968
01:15:15,791 --> 01:15:21,263
It was unbelievable that these two extraordinary
situations could be happening at the same time.
969
01:15:23,631 --> 01:15:28,227
the position between the Chinese
and the Tibetans was becoming irreconcilable.
970
01:15:29,551 --> 01:15:32,429
It was an incredible situation that was unfolding.
971
01:15:33,751 --> 01:15:36,663
If you had told an outsider,
they wouldn't believe you.
972
01:15:36,711 --> 01:15:38,702
But that's how it was.
973
01:15:42,991 --> 01:15:44,868
DALAI LAMA: One aspect -
974
01:15:44,911 --> 01:15:47,903
the whole atmosphere is so tens.
975
01:15:49,911 --> 01:15:56,305
Many people actually felt whether
this big gathering can take place or not,
976
01:15:56,351 --> 01:15:58,148
because there was so much tension.
977
01:15:58,191 --> 01:16:00,659
But then everything go very smoothly.
978
01:16:00,711 --> 01:16:02,702
So everybody was very happy.
979
01:16:04,031 --> 01:16:06,340
My final examination was successful.
980
01:16:06,991 --> 01:16:08,982
I think very successful.
981
01:16:10,991 --> 01:16:17,021
And also, I myself, from the corner of my mind,
982
01:16:17,071 --> 01:16:21,542
another thing is, now no more lessons.
983
01:16:24,911 --> 01:16:28,699
The Dalai Lama returned to the Norbulingka
with his full retinue
984
01:16:28,751 --> 01:16:31,549
But this time he was accompanied by
armed guards
985
01:16:32,471 --> 01:16:36,862
Little did he know that this 1000yearol
ceremonial procession through Lhasa
986
01:16:36,911 --> 01:16:38,902
would be his last
987
01:16:39,631 --> 01:16:43,670
The Chinese Governor-General of Tibet
invited the Dalai Lama to see a dance troupe
988
01:16:43,711 --> 01:16:45,906
at the Chinese military headquarters
989
01:16:46,471 --> 01:16:48,541
In the name of dispensing with formality
990
01:16:48,591 --> 01:16:52,186
the Chinese requested that he attend
with unarmed bodyguards
991
01:16:52,911 --> 01:16:57,701
Worried that a refusal would worsen
the fragile situation the Dalai Lama accepted
992
01:16:57,751 --> 01:16:59,742
but the news soon spread
993
01:17:01,431 --> 01:17:04,468
the Tibetan people cam pouring into
the Norbulingka
994
01:17:04,511 --> 01:17:08,220
and their spokesman forced their way
into our official meetings.
995
01:17:08,831 --> 01:17:10,822
So His Holiness didn't go.
996
01:17:10,871 --> 01:17:14,466
This meant that any communication
between the Chinese and the Tibetans
997
01:17:14,511 --> 01:17:16,502
had completely broken down.
998
01:17:16,791 --> 01:17:21,103
As this had happened, everybody felt
it wasn't safe for His Holiness to stay.
999
01:17:22,271 --> 01:17:25,069
You could never tell what the Chinese might do.
1000
01:17:25,111 --> 01:17:28,023
So everyone wanted him to leave
as soon as possible.
1001
01:17:28,751 --> 01:17:32,710
Although that was what everyone was thinking
and what everybody wanted,
1002
01:17:32,751 --> 01:17:34,742
no-one dared say it out loud.
1003
01:17:35,351 --> 01:17:37,342
We were all terrified.
1004
01:17:38,831 --> 01:17:42,665
The Dalai Lama received news that the
Chinese were planning to attack the crowd
1005
01:17:42,711 --> 01:17:45,783
surrounding the Norbulingka
and bomb the building
1006
01:17:46,271 --> 01:17:50,662
Convinced that if he left the people would be
saved he decided he had to leave
1007
01:17:52,431 --> 01:17:58,142
Of course, topmost in my mind is fear,
1008
01:17:58,711 --> 01:18:00,702
sadness.
1009
01:18:01,471 --> 01:18:04,827
And almost the feeling of... desperate.
1010
01:18:09,591 --> 01:18:15,268
And also leaving some of my close friends.
1011
01:18:16,631 --> 01:18:22,388
Sweepers, or some monks,
who look after the temples,
1012
01:18:22,431 --> 01:18:24,991
or the libraries at Norbulingka.
1013
01:18:26,111 --> 01:18:28,102
And including my dog.
1014
01:18:30,631 --> 01:18:33,828
At the human level - very sad.
1015
01:18:33,871 --> 01:18:35,862
One factor.
1016
01:18:35,911 --> 01:18:37,902
Then also...
1017
01:18:40,351 --> 01:18:49,100
several thousand Tibetan
supposed a different Norbulingka.
1018
01:18:49,151 --> 01:18:51,221
So that was an additional worry.
1019
01:18:52,031 --> 01:18:57,059
If something happened,
then thousands of people will die.
1020
01:18:58,831 --> 01:19:03,700
Then also my own life is in danger.
1021
01:19:03,751 --> 01:19:08,108
One person 's future,
but the future of Tibet is also related.
1022
01:19:09,191 --> 01:19:13,230
So, therefore, anxiety,
1023
01:19:13,991 --> 01:19:17,779
fear, a little doubt, hesitation,
1024
01:19:18,631 --> 01:19:22,670
and sadness - all mixed.
1025
01:19:22,711 --> 01:19:24,224
Very much mixed.
1026
01:19:24,271 --> 01:19:28,549
That night the Dalai Lama
escaped from the Norbulingka
1027
01:19:28,591 --> 01:19:31,151
disguised as a Tibetan soldier
1028
01:19:36,551 --> 01:19:38,462
I had an indescribable feeling.
1029
01:19:38,511 --> 01:19:42,982
On the one hand, I was exultant
that His Holiness was able to leave.
1030
01:19:44,191 --> 01:19:47,467
On the other hand,
I was very sad when I saw him.
1031
01:19:49,511 --> 01:19:51,706
Unlike the usual protocol and fanfare,
1032
01:19:53,151 --> 01:19:55,540
he left wearing an ordinary brown uniform,
1033
01:19:56,271 --> 01:19:58,262
carrying a rifle, like a soldier.
1034
01:20:01,791 --> 01:20:05,420
DALAI LAMA: the next day,
we reached southern Tibet.
1035
01:20:06,751 --> 01:20:10,300
Then in fear of my life no longer.
1036
01:20:12,191 --> 01:20:19,700
Then we have no hesitation to criticise
our Chinese brothers and sisters.
1037
01:20:21,791 --> 01:20:26,262
While in Lhasa,
although sometimes we criticised,
1038
01:20:27,151 --> 01:20:31,144
but from one corner of our mind:
1039
01:20:33,511 --> 01:20:35,308
Be carful! Be carful! Be carful!
1040
01:20:35,351 --> 01:20:37,342
All that kind of situation.
1041
01:20:38,071 --> 01:20:40,744
As soon as we reached southern Tibet,
1042
01:20:41,751 --> 01:20:43,742
free from Chinese forces,
1043
01:20:44,871 --> 01:20:50,662
we get some... some extraordinary feeling.
1044
01:20:50,711 --> 01:20:52,463
Now free.
1045
01:20:53,151 --> 01:20:55,142
Freedom!
1046
01:20:56,351 --> 01:21:00,264
Two weeks later after an arduous journey
through the Himalayas
1047
01:21:00,311 --> 01:21:03,064
the Dalai Lama reached safety
in Northern India
1048
01:21:06,764 --> 01:21:11,076
That morning around dawn,
they began shelling the Norbulingka.
1049
01:21:13,204 --> 01:21:16,401
At around nine or ten, I went to Chakpori Hill
1050
01:21:17,084 --> 01:21:20,281
to the defensive position
I'd been assigned to monitor.
1051
01:21:21,524 --> 01:21:26,518
When I looked towards the Potala, I saw
there was a huge fire in the eastern wing.
1052
01:21:28,004 --> 01:21:30,199
Near the accounts section, a huge fire.
1053
01:21:35,484 --> 01:21:39,397
the cannon bombardment started from
the bottom of the hills upwards.
1054
01:21:39,444 --> 01:21:45,201
That was followed by the rat-tat-tat
of the machine-gun fire. It was relentless.
1055
01:21:48,324 --> 01:21:53,637
In any cash, eventually, even the Tsuglagkhang
was taken over and completely looted.
1056
01:21:56,524 --> 01:22:00,119
Everything except for the Jowo statue
and the Song Tsan Chapel.
1057
01:22:00,884 --> 01:22:02,875
It was left like an empty shell.
1058
01:22:02,924 --> 01:22:04,915
Everything else was destroyed.
1059
01:22:06,164 --> 01:22:11,079
It was taken over by the Chinese soldiers
and turned into... what's the word in Chinese?
1060
01:22:12,364 --> 01:22:14,355
A tro tay.
1061
01:22:15,804 --> 01:22:19,638
We weren't allowed in
because it was turned into a military barracks
1062
01:22:19,684 --> 01:22:21,675
and heavily guarded.
1063
01:22:25,604 --> 01:22:27,674
Then around four or five in the evening,
1064
01:22:27,724 --> 01:22:30,716
when I looked across
at the Rammakan Ferry crossing,
1065
01:22:30,764 --> 01:22:35,076
I saw large numbers of Tibetan horsemen,
foot soldiers and ordinary people.
1066
01:22:37,524 --> 01:22:40,436
Many of them were
from the Tibetan Volunteer Force.
1067
01:22:42,284 --> 01:22:44,559
Then the relentless bombardment began.
1068
01:22:45,964 --> 01:22:49,036
In the dust and smoke,
I saw people and horses falling.
1069
01:22:50,004 --> 01:22:53,201
the intense bombardment went on
for about an hour or two.
1070
01:22:53,804 --> 01:22:56,637
That day, over a thousand of our people
were killed.
1071
01:22:57,524 --> 01:22:59,594
I saw it all with my very own eyes.
1072
01:23:05,764 --> 01:23:07,277
The Tibetan Resistance
1073
01:23:07,324 --> 01:23:12,352
made up of freedom fighters and monks who
had taken up arms for the first time in their lives
1074
01:23:12,404 --> 01:23:14,395
were no match for the Chinese army
1075
01:23:15,244 --> 01:23:17,235
They surrendered after three days
1076
01:23:19,164 --> 01:23:21,200
The Tibetan government was abolished
1077
01:23:21,244 --> 01:23:24,839
and the Chinese systematically began
to destroy Tibetan society
1078
01:23:24,884 --> 01:23:27,193
and its Buddhist culture and traditions
1079
01:23:29,204 --> 01:23:31,877
Monasteries were looted and scriptures burnt
1080
01:23:32,804 --> 01:23:35,716
Nuns and monks were forced
to denounce their faith
1081
01:23:35,764 --> 01:23:39,279
They were also made to discard their robes
and grow their hair
1082
01:23:39,324 --> 01:23:41,633
They were even forced to marry each other
1083
01:23:42,524 --> 01:23:47,803
Class resentment amongst the peasants over
Tibet's feudal system was ruthlessly exploited
1084
01:23:47,844 --> 01:23:51,883
The government official and aristocrats
had their long hair shaved off
1085
01:23:51,924 --> 01:23:54,392
were imprisoned or forced to do menial jobs
1086
01:23:55,164 --> 01:23:59,680
They were subjected to public interrogation
sessions many resulting in death
1087
01:24:04,684 --> 01:24:08,279
The Indian government granted the Dalai Lama
political asylum
1088
01:24:08,324 --> 01:24:12,033
and 80000 refugees escaped from Tibet
to join him
1089
01:24:13,324 --> 01:24:17,237
He has lived here in Dharamsala
known as 'Little Lhasa' ever since
1090
01:24:21,004 --> 01:24:23,677
The Dalai Lama appealed to
the United Nations
1091
01:24:24,164 --> 01:24:27,076
calling on China to respect
the human rights of Tibetans
1092
01:24:27,124 --> 01:24:29,558
and their desire for self determination
1093
01:24:36,124 --> 01:24:39,719
Despite three resolutions adopted
by the UN General A assembly
1094
01:24:40,364 --> 01:24:43,720
the fact that thousands of monasteries
were destroyed
1095
01:24:43,764 --> 01:24:47,598
and hundreds of thousands of Tibetans
were imprisoned in labour camps
1096
01:24:47,644 --> 01:24:50,636
the international community
refused to intervene
1097
01:24:52,604 --> 01:24:55,482
It's tragic that Tibetans
have lost their homeland,
1098
01:24:55,524 --> 01:24:59,676
and with no tangible international intervention.
1099
01:24:59,724 --> 01:25:03,637
But, coming here, looking round,
one can see that despite everything
1100
01:25:03,684 --> 01:25:09,475
Tibetans retain their sense of national identity,
their culture and their pride.
1101
01:25:14,804 --> 01:25:19,878
Looking at these pictures
that you have here in front of me,
1102
01:25:19,924 --> 01:25:21,915
it's entirely a different world.
1103
01:25:24,204 --> 01:25:26,195
And, to me, it's very sad.
1104
01:25:28,724 --> 01:25:30,715
My grandfather wanted Tibet...
1105
01:25:30,924 --> 01:25:33,802
I get very emotional to talk about Tibet,
you know.
1106
01:25:35,524 --> 01:25:39,802
My grandfather wanted Tibet
to be with the outside world,
1107
01:25:41,284 --> 01:25:45,072
and to join the United Nations,
and to educate the Tibetans outside
1108
01:25:45,124 --> 01:25:47,115
and to be more with the modern world.
1109
01:25:48,164 --> 01:25:52,043
But his visions and his wishes,
1110
01:25:52,084 --> 01:25:54,996
and also the 13th Dalai Lama
and the 14th Dalai Lama,
1111
01:25:55,084 --> 01:25:58,759
had a wish that we must have contact
with the international world.
1112
01:25:58,804 --> 01:26:05,243
But, unfortunately, from our own side,
we were so blind,
1113
01:26:05,284 --> 01:26:09,243
and we knew nothing of the outside world.
1114
01:26:09,284 --> 01:26:12,879
We were just so engrossed in our little pond.
1115
01:26:13,884 --> 01:26:16,034
You know? So...
1116
01:26:16,684 --> 01:26:20,563
We knew nothing, what was happening
to the world, what could happen,
1117
01:26:20,964 --> 01:26:22,875
and so we lost our country.
1118
01:26:31,204 --> 01:26:34,514
the Dalai Lama advocates a middle way,
1119
01:26:34,564 --> 01:26:38,034
which means he wants Tibetans
to move back to Tibet
1120
01:26:38,084 --> 01:26:41,201
even if they become a minority within China,
1121
01:26:41,244 --> 01:26:45,157
but a minority with a degree of self-rule.
1122
01:26:45,724 --> 01:26:51,037
He remains determined that the dialogue
between the Chinese and the Tibetans
1123
01:26:51,084 --> 01:26:53,962
remains peaceful and positive.
1124
01:27:01,084 --> 01:27:03,075
Middle way approach is the best.
1125
01:27:03,524 --> 01:27:08,803
So the present Chinese government's policy
regarding different minorities,
1126
01:27:08,844 --> 01:27:10,562
particularly regarding Tibet,
1127
01:27:10,604 --> 01:27:14,722
is not healthy, or not good, for the long-run.
1128
01:27:15,404 --> 01:27:22,560
So new opinions, as is better awareness,
now coming.
1129
01:27:23,564 --> 01:27:26,522
So, therefore, basically, I'm hopeful.
1130
01:27:30,324 --> 01:27:32,315
Thank you.
1131
01:27:35,164 --> 01:27:38,474
Phuntsog Tsering escaped to India in 1959
1132
01:27:38,964 --> 01:27:41,353
He is now the Dalai Lama's personal tailor
1133
01:27:44,084 --> 01:27:48,521
Shewo Lobsang Dargye spent 15 years
in a Chinese prison in Lhasa
1134
01:27:49,044 --> 01:27:51,683
He escaped to India in 1985
1135
01:27:51,724 --> 01:27:56,240
and became the Chief Justice Commissioner
for the Tibetan Government in Exile
1136
01:27:57,244 --> 01:28:00,680
Usur Nawang Tashi escaped to India in 1959
1137
01:28:01,364 --> 01:28:04,083
He retired as a cham teacher in 1990
1138
01:28:06,604 --> 01:28:10,722
The Venerable Jampa Tsultrim served 20 years
in a Chinese prison in Lhasa
1139
01:28:11,284 --> 01:28:14,959
He escaped in 1980
and works for the Dalai Lama's private office
1140
01:28:17,884 --> 01:28:22,435
The Venerable Tenzin Choenyi Tara
escaped from Tibet in 1959
1141
01:28:22,484 --> 01:28:26,477
and worked for the Dalai Lama's private office
until he retired in 2003
1142
01:28:28,764 --> 01:28:32,279
Jampa Choedon was forced to give up
being a nun and marry a monk
1143
01:28:32,884 --> 01:28:34,875
She escaped to India in 1984
1144
01:28:38,044 --> 01:28:42,037
Professor Samdhong Rinpoche
escaped to India in 1959
1145
01:28:42,084 --> 01:28:45,679
He is now the Prime Minister
of the Tibetan Government in Exile
1146
01:28:47,204 --> 01:28:50,514
Namgyal Taklea left Tibet in 1956
1147
01:28:51,244 --> 01:28:54,156
She has lived in Switzerland
America and now India
1148
01:28:54,204 --> 01:28:56,638
working for the Tibetan Government in Exile