1 00:00:03,400 --> 00:00:05,840 The mini-break is nothing less than complete submission to 2 00:00:05,840 --> 00:00:07,360 ungovernable chaos. 3 00:00:07,360 --> 00:00:08,680 For once you leave the house, 4 00:00:08,680 --> 00:00:10,680 how the flip can a cat be expected to find food, 5 00:00:10,680 --> 00:00:12,200 shelter and adequate entertainment? 6 00:00:12,200 --> 00:00:13,920 In short , once you leave the borders. 7 00:00:13,920 --> 00:00:16,360 How the heck can you locate the Guccis? 8 00:00:16,360 --> 00:00:18,400 But do not unsheathe your secret fury 9 00:00:18,400 --> 00:00:20,560 for I, the barely human Richard Ayoade, 10 00:00:20,560 --> 00:00:22,880 am here to make your short-haul holiday game 11 00:00:22,880 --> 00:00:25,760 the stuff of dreams that could one day become anecdotes! 12 00:00:25,760 --> 00:00:28,160 I, while saddled with some of the available people 13 00:00:28,160 --> 00:00:30,080 in the world of entertainment, 14 00:00:30,080 --> 00:00:31,760 am going to savagely barrel you 15 00:00:31,760 --> 00:00:35,240 through the colossally clustered mini-break. 16 00:00:35,240 --> 00:00:39,240 This is travel without mercy. 17 00:00:39,480 --> 00:00:43,480 Tonight, 48 hours in the city that affixed a "Pest" to its "Buda". 18 00:00:44,640 --> 00:00:48,640 3.7 mill cats congregate in the Hungarian capital each year 19 00:00:49,000 --> 00:00:52,480 to take its waters and bask in bohemian beauty. 20 00:00:52,480 --> 00:00:54,320 SHE SNEEZES 21 00:00:54,320 --> 00:00:56,520 Joining me to shoulder the burden is writer, comedian 22 00:00:56,520 --> 00:00:57,800 and actor Aisling Bea. 23 00:00:57,800 --> 00:00:58,960 Barmy army. 24 00:00:58,960 --> 00:01:02,760 Together, we will take a train staffed by youths. 25 00:01:02,760 --> 00:01:05,000 They grow up so fast, Richard. 26 00:01:05,000 --> 00:01:07,240 ..behave like ruddy students, 27 00:01:07,240 --> 00:01:09,160 and brook aural assault. 28 00:01:09,160 --> 00:01:12,400 Where the heck are these meaty pancakes? 29 00:01:12,400 --> 00:01:14,680 We're here! But should we have come? 30 00:01:14,680 --> 00:01:16,440 Checkmate. 31 00:01:16,440 --> 00:01:20,440 I'm not focusing, yeah? I'm presenting. 32 00:01:22,880 --> 00:01:25,120 In a manner that's very much off screen, 33 00:01:25,120 --> 00:01:28,840 we traverse the 906 miles twixt Britain and Hungary 34 00:01:28,840 --> 00:01:31,720 before thudding down in its principal vill. 35 00:01:31,720 --> 00:01:34,600 Part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire for 50 years, 36 00:01:34,600 --> 00:01:36,560 it withstood 40 years of communism 37 00:01:36,560 --> 00:01:40,360 before the final indignity of our two-day occupation. 38 00:01:40,360 --> 00:01:42,400 So, Richard, why Budapest? 39 00:01:42,400 --> 00:01:46,400 A full answer awaits outside of this frame. 40 00:01:50,760 --> 00:01:54,120 Budapest was so named on 17th November 1873, 41 00:01:54,120 --> 00:01:57,080 when the three settlements of Pest, Buda and Obuda 42 00:01:57,080 --> 00:01:59,520 were united into a megacity. 43 00:01:59,520 --> 00:02:01,320 Let's weaponise the stat cannon. 44 00:02:01,320 --> 00:02:03,720 Hungary is home to 1,500 thermal springs, 45 00:02:03,720 --> 00:02:05,320 450 public baths, 46 00:02:05,320 --> 00:02:08,680 eight indigenous grape varieties and six different types of paprika. 47 00:02:08,680 --> 00:02:10,960 It's the birthplace of the Biro and the Rubik's Cube, 48 00:02:10,960 --> 00:02:13,640 as well as being the very place in which vitamin C was discovered, 49 00:02:13,640 --> 00:02:17,640 which makes it something of a personal pilgrimage. 50 00:02:18,920 --> 00:02:21,000 The cash-strapped mini-breaker 51 00:02:21,000 --> 00:02:23,160 can broker 48 hours of Buda biz 52 00:02:23,160 --> 00:02:25,520 for just over 61,000 HUF, 53 00:02:25,520 --> 00:02:29,520 aka 180 GBP. 54 00:02:30,000 --> 00:02:32,320 To give us the illusion of authenticity, 55 00:02:32,320 --> 00:02:34,200 I've checked us into a hostel. 56 00:02:34,200 --> 00:02:37,080 I've been assured it's probably safe. 57 00:02:37,080 --> 00:02:40,960 Look. In you go. What sort of weekend break have you led me into? 58 00:02:40,960 --> 00:02:43,200 You're more than welcome. Thank you. 59 00:02:43,200 --> 00:02:45,160 Richard, my bag's so heavy. 60 00:02:45,160 --> 00:02:48,680 The Lavender Circus offers alarmingly low-priced accommodation. 61 00:02:48,680 --> 00:02:50,040 Oh, God! 62 00:02:50,040 --> 00:02:53,240 The four flights of stairs allows us time to ponder the extremely 63 00:02:53,240 --> 00:02:56,360 unlikely possibility that there's a catch. 64 00:02:56,360 --> 00:02:57,920 Oh, look! 65 00:02:57,920 --> 00:03:00,240 This looks kind of quirky. 66 00:03:00,240 --> 00:03:01,520 Thank you. 67 00:03:01,520 --> 00:03:05,520 There's a traditional bottle of... Bleach. ..bleach there. 68 00:03:05,840 --> 00:03:09,840 That's important. You'll need that. 69 00:03:10,080 --> 00:03:13,000 En-suite sleeping quarters are available 70 00:03:13,000 --> 00:03:15,880 pre-etched from bespoke scribblings from its proprietor. 71 00:03:15,880 --> 00:03:19,880 OK. This is a tough night-time wee. 72 00:03:22,080 --> 00:03:23,840 Oh, wow! 73 00:03:23,840 --> 00:03:27,840 This doesn't look budget at all. 74 00:03:28,040 --> 00:03:32,040 This is too low. 75 00:03:33,560 --> 00:03:36,560 My room's lovely, actually. What's yours like? 76 00:03:36,560 --> 00:03:39,280 It is highly dangerous. It wouldn't pass UK building regs. 77 00:03:39,280 --> 00:03:41,720 It's like the set of Roman Polanski's The Tenant, 78 00:03:41,720 --> 00:03:44,400 and that's a reference no-one's going to get. 79 00:03:44,400 --> 00:03:46,960 But before we can cop the city's culture, 80 00:03:46,960 --> 00:03:48,920 we must first master Hungarian, 81 00:03:48,920 --> 00:03:52,920 one of the hardest languages for native English speakers to learn. 82 00:03:53,040 --> 00:03:55,720 Waiting, as if by appointment, 83 00:03:55,720 --> 00:03:59,080 is our poker-faced Fungarian tour guide Miklos. 84 00:03:59,080 --> 00:04:01,120 Aisling. Miklos. 85 00:04:01,120 --> 00:04:02,920 Richard. Rich-ard! 86 00:04:02,920 --> 00:04:05,760 I've been saying it wrong my whole life? No, 87 00:04:05,760 --> 00:04:09,160 but the Hungarian way is that. OK. Yes. 88 00:04:09,160 --> 00:04:12,560 The stress is always on the first syllable. On the first. 89 00:04:12,560 --> 00:04:13,800 So you would go, 90 00:04:13,800 --> 00:04:16,560 SUPER-califragilistic expialidocious! 91 00:04:16,560 --> 00:04:18,080 Exactly. OK. 92 00:04:18,080 --> 00:04:21,000 'With an hour to conquer its ten dialects, 93 00:04:21,000 --> 00:04:24,760 '18 noun cases and 14 vowel sounds...' 94 00:04:24,760 --> 00:04:27,160 Oh-oh. We're like the Teletubbies. 95 00:04:27,160 --> 00:04:30,400 Ee-ee. You could probably lose that vowel, I'd say. 96 00:04:30,400 --> 00:04:33,640 'Miklos starts to get our linguistic shiz tight.' 97 00:04:33,640 --> 00:04:36,960 TRANSLATION: 98 00:04:36,960 --> 00:04:38,920 HE REPEATS THE PHRASE HALTINGLY 99 00:04:38,920 --> 00:04:40,560 All the best. 100 00:04:40,560 --> 00:04:41,840 Never mind, Rich-ard. OK. 101 00:04:41,840 --> 00:04:45,840 Finally, when you drink, you want to say cheers... 102 00:04:46,400 --> 00:04:48,920 RICHARD REPEATS THE PHRASE 103 00:04:48,920 --> 00:04:51,280 That's how everything sounds after you start drinking. 104 00:04:51,280 --> 00:04:54,280 How do I say thank you? Koszonom. Koszonom. 105 00:04:54,280 --> 00:04:56,200 I'm never going to forget that. 106 00:04:56,200 --> 00:04:58,480 Now we've achieved near fluency, 107 00:04:58,480 --> 00:05:01,200 we start lining our eyeballs with landmarks. 108 00:05:01,200 --> 00:05:04,040 Miklos insists that we document these momentous moments 109 00:05:04,040 --> 00:05:06,000 by attaching a smartphone to a stick 110 00:05:06,000 --> 00:05:09,880 and turning the lens on our very selves in a selfie tour. 111 00:05:09,880 --> 00:05:13,320 So now we are approaching the parliament. Mm-hm. 112 00:05:13,320 --> 00:05:17,320 You might ask why such a small country has such a huge parliament. 113 00:05:17,720 --> 00:05:19,200 Corruption. 114 00:05:19,200 --> 00:05:20,360 No! Oh. 115 00:05:20,360 --> 00:05:22,720 Because it was built in 1896, 116 00:05:22,720 --> 00:05:26,600 when Hungary was three times as big as it is now. 117 00:05:26,600 --> 00:05:30,160 Part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. 118 00:05:30,160 --> 00:05:32,600 So if you'd like to take a selfie... 119 00:05:32,600 --> 00:05:35,200 It just feels like an Ozzy Osbourne album cover. 120 00:05:35,200 --> 00:05:37,560 You should look happier. 121 00:05:37,560 --> 00:05:38,920 I am looking happy. 122 00:05:38,920 --> 00:05:42,320 That's Richard, like, at Christmas. 123 00:05:42,320 --> 00:05:44,880 'And what could almost pass for a montage, 124 00:05:44,880 --> 00:05:47,680 'we clicked through the Museum of Ethnography...' 125 00:05:47,680 --> 00:05:49,040 OK, ready? 126 00:05:49,040 --> 00:05:52,240 '..celebrated socialist poet Attila Jozsef, 127 00:05:52,240 --> 00:05:55,200 'and leading homicide detective Columbo, 128 00:05:55,200 --> 00:05:58,120 'rev'd here because of Peter Falk's Hungarian ancestry, 129 00:05:58,120 --> 00:06:02,120 'and shared surname with the 19th-century politician.' 130 00:06:02,600 --> 00:06:04,400 You come this side. There we go. 131 00:06:04,400 --> 00:06:06,000 Looking straight up... 132 00:06:06,000 --> 00:06:08,040 CAMERA SHUTTER CLICKS 133 00:06:08,040 --> 00:06:11,800 Wow. That's a great selfie. 134 00:06:11,800 --> 00:06:13,200 Get the bridge in? 135 00:06:13,200 --> 00:06:15,840 Within two hours, we've almost wiped the city dry 136 00:06:15,840 --> 00:06:19,800 with out infernal wand... 137 00:06:19,800 --> 00:06:21,680 ..leaving one last site to scope, 138 00:06:21,680 --> 00:06:23,840 the Hadik Memorial. 139 00:06:23,840 --> 00:06:27,360 A popular spot for students. Before their exams, 140 00:06:27,360 --> 00:06:30,680 they come here and they touch a sensitive part of the horse 141 00:06:30,680 --> 00:06:33,400 and they think it will bring luck. 142 00:06:33,400 --> 00:06:35,360 If you look up 143 00:06:35,360 --> 00:06:37,800 and you see the shiniest part, 144 00:06:37,800 --> 00:06:41,280 you will see what... Because people have been rubbing it. 145 00:06:41,280 --> 00:06:43,680 Give me a leg-up, Richard. 146 00:06:43,680 --> 00:06:45,120 Oh, great! 147 00:06:45,120 --> 00:06:46,480 You made it. 148 00:06:46,480 --> 00:06:50,480 The last Hungarian word we are going to learn is "tok". 149 00:06:50,720 --> 00:06:52,960 "Tok"? What's "tok"? That sounds cute. 150 00:06:52,960 --> 00:06:55,040 Since it belongs to the horse, 151 00:06:55,040 --> 00:06:56,680 and horse is "lo"... Lo. Lo. 152 00:06:56,680 --> 00:06:58,920 The lo tok... 153 00:06:58,920 --> 00:07:01,640 Away, now, that's "horse balls", is it? 154 00:07:01,640 --> 00:07:03,920 You said that. I don't use such words. 155 00:07:03,920 --> 00:07:07,040 Take the selfie stick. There we go. OK. 156 00:07:07,040 --> 00:07:08,680 Get the lo toks in. 157 00:07:08,680 --> 00:07:10,880 Please, let's not cheat on this. 158 00:07:10,880 --> 00:07:13,160 There's a lot of horse to get in here. OK. 159 00:07:13,160 --> 00:07:16,480 I think my head's in the way of the undercarriage. 160 00:07:16,480 --> 00:07:18,000 Thank you very much. 161 00:07:18,000 --> 00:07:19,760 It was great fun. 162 00:07:19,760 --> 00:07:22,440 Mikloz, as they say in Budapest... 163 00:07:22,440 --> 00:07:26,440 SHE ATTEMPTS TO SPEAK HUNGARIAN 164 00:07:26,480 --> 00:07:29,720 Understandably famished, fatigued and frightened, 165 00:07:29,720 --> 00:07:32,200 our vowels ached for the appeasement of lunch, 166 00:07:32,200 --> 00:07:36,200 located a 20-min taxi trundle towards Buda's oldest part. 167 00:07:36,960 --> 00:07:39,120 Well, look at this. 168 00:07:39,120 --> 00:07:40,680 This looks ruddy rustic. 169 00:07:40,680 --> 00:07:44,680 Kehli Vendeglo have been ladling out authentic Hungarian fare to 170 00:07:45,000 --> 00:07:49,000 locals and Caucasian film actors since 1899. 171 00:07:49,520 --> 00:07:53,440 This is a roll call. Roger Moore looks exhausted. 172 00:07:53,440 --> 00:07:55,560 But why Charles Bronson on a horse? 173 00:07:55,560 --> 00:07:57,160 Who's Charles Bronson? 174 00:07:57,160 --> 00:07:58,520 Deathwish, please. 175 00:07:58,520 --> 00:07:59,960 Man's films. High School Musical? 176 00:07:59,960 --> 00:08:01,120 About men. 177 00:08:01,120 --> 00:08:02,720 Killing other men. 178 00:08:02,720 --> 00:08:04,240 Oh, classic men! 179 00:08:04,240 --> 00:08:06,120 HE SPEAKS HUNGARIAN 180 00:08:06,120 --> 00:08:07,640 Si. Um... 181 00:08:07,640 --> 00:08:09,800 SHE STUTTERS 182 00:08:09,800 --> 00:08:12,040 You can do it. Push through. 183 00:08:12,040 --> 00:08:16,040 SHE SPEAKS HUNGARIAN HALTINGLY 184 00:08:16,720 --> 00:08:18,480 HE REPLIES IN HUNGARIAN 185 00:08:18,480 --> 00:08:20,240 Oh. Koszonom. 186 00:08:20,240 --> 00:08:24,080 Yes, Kszonom. Yes. 187 00:08:24,080 --> 00:08:26,800 With the accent on substantial, 188 00:08:26,800 --> 00:08:29,840 we perused the paprika'd provisions. 189 00:08:29,840 --> 00:08:32,400 I would recommend the fisherman's soup... 190 00:08:32,400 --> 00:08:35,880 I could eat that, because I'm famously a pescatarian, Richard. 191 00:08:35,880 --> 00:08:38,720 Is there any dead animal that you'd like to eat here, Richard? 192 00:08:38,720 --> 00:08:41,400 Yes, please. Don't let me put you off. 193 00:08:41,400 --> 00:08:43,760 Yes. I think I'll just have some... 194 00:08:43,760 --> 00:08:47,120 I'm just going to have some meaty pancakes. 195 00:08:47,120 --> 00:08:48,840 SHE SNIGGERS 196 00:08:48,840 --> 00:08:50,320 What's in them? 197 00:08:50,320 --> 00:08:54,320 Could be anything at this stage of the day. 198 00:08:54,600 --> 00:08:56,240 Can you... 199 00:08:56,240 --> 00:08:58,960 THEY PLAY A TRADITIONAL TUNE 200 00:08:58,960 --> 00:09:00,320 Wow. 201 00:09:00,320 --> 00:09:02,080 This is good. 202 00:09:02,080 --> 00:09:03,120 Ohh! 203 00:09:03,120 --> 00:09:04,520 Hey, guys! 204 00:09:04,520 --> 00:09:08,520 The guy with the bass has got a harder job, though. 205 00:09:09,960 --> 00:09:11,360 This is good. 206 00:09:11,360 --> 00:09:12,840 All these faces. 207 00:09:12,840 --> 00:09:15,880 It is a montage sequence in a Sherlock Holmes... 208 00:09:15,880 --> 00:09:18,840 Puts you into a bit of a frenzy, like I want to eat like... 209 00:09:18,840 --> 00:09:20,480 Yeah. 210 00:09:20,480 --> 00:09:24,480 TEMPO INCREASES 211 00:09:26,360 --> 00:09:28,400 What are you meant to do? 212 00:09:28,400 --> 00:09:30,680 Are we meant to continue as if we're talking? 213 00:09:30,680 --> 00:09:34,120 Or are we just meant to listen? Oh, yeah, which is respectful? 214 00:09:34,120 --> 00:09:36,960 OK. Uh... 215 00:09:36,960 --> 00:09:38,440 That was great. Whoo! 216 00:09:38,440 --> 00:09:40,440 Thank you very much. Thank you so much. 217 00:09:40,440 --> 00:09:42,640 Koszonom... 218 00:09:42,640 --> 00:09:45,520 Koszonom. You're welcome. Very good. 219 00:09:45,520 --> 00:09:47,160 Koszonom. 220 00:09:47,160 --> 00:09:51,160 Where the heck are these meaty pancakes? 221 00:09:52,320 --> 00:09:53,880 To tide us over, 222 00:09:53,880 --> 00:09:56,480 we spoon through Hungary's national dish, 223 00:09:56,480 --> 00:10:00,480 goulash and fish soup. 224 00:10:00,760 --> 00:10:03,080 Oh, yeah, it's nice. It's good. 225 00:10:03,080 --> 00:10:06,240 Then we thunder on with marrowbone in gingham napkins, 226 00:10:06,240 --> 00:10:07,680 cabbage noodles, 227 00:10:07,680 --> 00:10:10,000 bread mounted with garlic, 228 00:10:10,000 --> 00:10:13,160 and, at long last, my meaty pancakes. 229 00:10:13,160 --> 00:10:14,280 Hmm. 230 00:10:14,280 --> 00:10:15,960 Well? 231 00:10:15,960 --> 00:10:18,760 I can see why they don't specify the meat. 232 00:10:18,760 --> 00:10:22,560 A funny dish, where they cover it in a bucket of sauce 233 00:10:22,560 --> 00:10:25,600 and you're like, "Something's amiss here." Yeah. 234 00:10:25,600 --> 00:10:27,560 It's like when you go into someone's house 235 00:10:27,560 --> 00:10:31,160 and there's a smell of bleach, you're like, "Who was killed here?" 236 00:10:31,160 --> 00:10:33,120 You've just described my house. 237 00:10:33,120 --> 00:10:34,680 OK, here we go. 238 00:10:34,680 --> 00:10:38,680 OK. BOTH: One, two, three... 239 00:10:39,680 --> 00:10:41,960 Thank you very much. He had it anyway. 240 00:10:41,960 --> 00:10:43,880 In his hands. Thank you very much. 241 00:10:43,880 --> 00:10:46,520 I'm actually just now not feeling like much of a feminist. 242 00:10:46,520 --> 00:10:50,520 Could you get this? It's fine. Although that is steep(!) 243 00:10:54,880 --> 00:10:56,640 Fuller than is wise, 244 00:10:56,640 --> 00:11:00,640 we waddle on in search of steep gradients. 245 00:11:04,360 --> 00:11:06,520 Established 1870. 246 00:11:06,520 --> 00:11:08,720 1.5 metres a second. Pff! 247 00:11:08,720 --> 00:11:11,440 I love it when you drop a fact on me, Richard. 248 00:11:11,440 --> 00:11:15,440 I have absolutely filled the fat bucket to overflow. 249 00:11:15,440 --> 00:11:18,280 I'm drinking every little bit of dribble that comes out. 250 00:11:18,280 --> 00:11:21,640 Please. Don't drink direct from the fat bucket. 251 00:11:21,640 --> 00:11:25,640 SHE LAUGHS 252 00:11:28,080 --> 00:11:29,880 180 steps later, 253 00:11:29,880 --> 00:11:32,720 we've arrived in the Buda Castle district, 254 00:11:32,720 --> 00:11:35,600 a World Heritage Site riddled with historic squares, 255 00:11:35,600 --> 00:11:37,720 palaces and vantage points. 256 00:11:37,720 --> 00:11:40,960 Aisling, if you had to make a sweeping generalisation 257 00:11:40,960 --> 00:11:44,240 about this city based on the view, what would it be? 258 00:11:44,240 --> 00:11:47,120 They're hiding something. 259 00:11:47,120 --> 00:11:48,920 Wow. 260 00:11:48,920 --> 00:11:52,920 That is like a Jeremy Kyle assessment. 261 00:11:56,920 --> 00:11:59,800 As evening cloaks our crumbling flesh, 262 00:11:59,800 --> 00:12:03,240 we see what goes down in Pest post-pm. 263 00:12:03,240 --> 00:12:05,360 Since the magical noughties, 264 00:12:05,360 --> 00:12:07,960 ruin pubs started to self-perpetuate in the 265 00:12:07,960 --> 00:12:11,080 long-abandoned buildings of the Jewish Quarter. 266 00:12:11,080 --> 00:12:14,160 We've descended on the original, Szimpla Kert. 267 00:12:14,160 --> 00:12:15,680 Hello. Hello. 268 00:12:15,680 --> 00:12:19,680 THEY SPEAK HUNGARIAN 269 00:12:19,960 --> 00:12:23,600 Two? It's brutal when they answer in English. 270 00:12:23,600 --> 00:12:25,400 Unicum, the local libation, 271 00:12:25,400 --> 00:12:27,680 is made from over 40 herbs and spices, 272 00:12:27,680 --> 00:12:31,680 originally brewed as an indigestion tonic for Emperor Joseph II in 1790 273 00:12:32,280 --> 00:12:36,280 by his physician Dr Zwack. It, for some reason, still exists. 274 00:12:36,880 --> 00:12:39,000 We'll be back for more in a bit. 275 00:12:39,000 --> 00:12:43,000 We're absolute legends. We're going to... 276 00:12:43,640 --> 00:12:45,520 INDISTINCT 277 00:12:45,520 --> 00:12:47,360 Everyone's having a laugh. 278 00:12:47,360 --> 00:12:51,360 I do not like going out. 279 00:12:51,360 --> 00:12:53,240 This is terrific. 280 00:12:53,240 --> 00:12:56,240 These are very unfortunately named shots, 281 00:12:56,240 --> 00:13:00,200 Unicum, which I would have thought could have done with a rebranding. 282 00:13:00,200 --> 00:13:01,880 It is a shame. 283 00:13:01,880 --> 00:13:05,880 You ready? Sip in... One, two, three. 284 00:13:10,240 --> 00:13:13,560 Jesus, Mary and Joseph and all of his carpenter friends! 285 00:13:13,560 --> 00:13:14,840 Come on. 286 00:13:14,840 --> 00:13:17,080 As well as its smooth aftertaste, 287 00:13:17,080 --> 00:13:20,240 Unicum also contains the dormant spirit of Danny Dyer. 288 00:13:20,240 --> 00:13:22,320 IMITATING DANNY: "Danny won! Danny won! 289 00:13:22,320 --> 00:13:23,800 "Lads, lads, lads. 290 00:13:23,800 --> 00:13:25,080 "Barmy army." 291 00:13:25,080 --> 00:13:27,520 Knock it down. No, I'm not knocking it down. 292 00:13:27,520 --> 00:13:29,320 What am I, on your hen do? Yeah! 293 00:13:29,320 --> 00:13:31,520 It's the nearest I'll get to a hen do any time soon. 294 00:13:31,520 --> 00:13:34,320 Come on. Please. There's still hope. There's not much. Please... 295 00:13:34,320 --> 00:13:36,160 That is not a drink for fun. 296 00:13:36,160 --> 00:13:38,400 I've done all I need to do here. 297 00:13:38,400 --> 00:13:41,400 If you leave me here with one shot glass and one empty, 298 00:13:41,400 --> 00:13:45,400 it'll look from afar like an Adele video. 299 00:13:45,560 --> 00:13:47,120 You've just sold me. 300 00:13:47,120 --> 00:13:50,760 But before the strings swell and we fade to black and white, 301 00:13:50,760 --> 00:13:53,720 the day calls it a night. 302 00:13:53,720 --> 00:13:55,880 In the park that may well be called two, 303 00:13:55,880 --> 00:13:58,120 at least three things will happen. 304 00:13:58,120 --> 00:14:00,160 This thing... # Do-do-do-do-do! # 305 00:14:00,160 --> 00:14:01,840 This thing... 306 00:14:01,840 --> 00:14:03,280 And this thing. 307 00:14:03,280 --> 00:14:09,000 I feel my suffering has only just begun. 308 00:14:13,040 --> 00:14:17,040 In the previous half of our now iconic barrel through Budapest, 309 00:14:17,080 --> 00:14:19,200 we mastered its tongue... 310 00:14:19,200 --> 00:14:20,920 HE SPEAKS HUNGARIAN HALTINGLY 311 00:14:20,920 --> 00:14:22,160 All the best. 312 00:14:22,160 --> 00:14:24,160 ..captured our own image... 313 00:14:24,160 --> 00:14:26,640 It just feels like an Ozzy Osbourne album cover. 314 00:14:26,640 --> 00:14:28,080 ..and necked this nip. 315 00:14:28,080 --> 00:14:30,880 SHE COUGHS 316 00:14:30,880 --> 00:14:33,040 Day two starts with my customary quest 317 00:14:33,040 --> 00:14:37,040 for healing waters and board games. 318 00:14:38,320 --> 00:14:41,440 One mil per annum schlep to the Szechenyi baths. 319 00:14:41,440 --> 00:14:45,240 Its high mineral content supposedly aids degenerative joint illnesses, 320 00:14:45,240 --> 00:14:47,320 so I suggest we make a pre-emptive strike. 321 00:14:47,320 --> 00:14:51,320 LAUGHTER 322 00:14:51,600 --> 00:14:55,040 Ignoring the crowd's crass calls for me to unstrap my bangers, 323 00:14:55,040 --> 00:14:57,600 we plunge in. 324 00:14:57,600 --> 00:14:59,960 This is the most visited attraction in Budapest. 325 00:14:59,960 --> 00:15:03,320 You can tell that because of all the people. I don't like this. 326 00:15:03,320 --> 00:15:05,040 There's a lot of flesh on display. 327 00:15:05,040 --> 00:15:07,400 You've managed to keep a bit of dignity there. 328 00:15:07,400 --> 00:15:10,320 I've given people so much, why should I give them my naked body? 329 00:15:10,320 --> 00:15:12,920 Don't give them any more. 330 00:15:12,920 --> 00:15:14,400 Since the Romans, 331 00:15:14,400 --> 00:15:16,800 bathing in hot springs has become unquestioned, 332 00:15:16,800 --> 00:15:19,240 and in order to make the practice even more baffling, 333 00:15:19,240 --> 00:15:23,240 locals have started to combine it with chess. 334 00:15:24,080 --> 00:15:26,960 You're white, so you've got the advantage. 335 00:15:26,960 --> 00:15:30,040 I don't want this to be.... 336 00:15:30,040 --> 00:15:31,840 Oh! Sorry. 337 00:15:31,840 --> 00:15:33,280 Don't go there. 338 00:15:33,280 --> 00:15:36,880 This is the queen, the most powerful piece on the board. 339 00:15:36,880 --> 00:15:40,040 It can move this way, that way... OK. ..that way. 340 00:15:40,040 --> 00:15:42,160 So, this is Beyonce. Sure. 341 00:15:42,160 --> 00:15:43,960 This is Jay Z. This is Jay Z. 342 00:15:43,960 --> 00:15:46,640 Jay Z can only move one at a time. Less powerful. Yeah. OK. 343 00:15:46,640 --> 00:15:50,080 OK, I'll go one... OK. Now your move. 344 00:15:50,080 --> 00:15:52,080 By the way, do you feel any better? 345 00:15:52,080 --> 00:15:56,080 I don't really, despite the high incidence of magnesium in the water. 346 00:15:56,320 --> 00:15:59,120 Do you feel like you're suffering less? No. 347 00:15:59,120 --> 00:16:03,120 I feel my suffering has only just begun. 348 00:16:03,360 --> 00:16:06,880 Before my Breton top shrinks ever tighter round my bosom, 349 00:16:06,880 --> 00:16:10,880 we split this zone to cop some chimney cake, a local speciality. 350 00:16:12,800 --> 00:16:14,400 Hello. Hello. 351 00:16:14,400 --> 00:16:17,000 My young colleague knows how to order. 352 00:16:17,000 --> 00:16:21,000 SHE SPEAKS HUNGARIAN HALTINGLY 353 00:16:23,160 --> 00:16:26,560 You don't have to sound old. 354 00:16:26,560 --> 00:16:30,560 Cone-shaped dough is basted in butter and roasted on a spit. 355 00:16:31,160 --> 00:16:32,720 Traditionally served sweet, 356 00:16:32,720 --> 00:16:34,960 there's a controversial new savoury slant 357 00:16:34,960 --> 00:16:36,280 to the chimney cake scene. 358 00:16:36,280 --> 00:16:40,280 We decide to order a brace of options. 359 00:16:40,320 --> 00:16:43,360 Aisling, I'm bang out of huf. Got any? 360 00:16:43,360 --> 00:16:45,480 Have I got huf? Yes, I do. 361 00:16:45,480 --> 00:16:47,560 Lay some huf down. I've got some huf. 362 00:16:47,560 --> 00:16:50,080 Don't flash your huf in my face. 2,770. 363 00:16:50,080 --> 00:16:52,080 Whoa, that's a lot of huf. That's a lot of huf. 364 00:16:52,080 --> 00:16:54,200 Koszonom. Koszonom. Koszonom. 365 00:16:54,200 --> 00:16:55,760 Koszonom. Thank you. 366 00:16:55,760 --> 00:16:57,480 Ohh! 367 00:16:57,480 --> 00:16:59,960 Mm-mm-mmm! 368 00:16:59,960 --> 00:17:01,520 We're lucky to have got this spot. 369 00:17:01,520 --> 00:17:04,120 I do feel like a bit of a chump without the ice cream bit. 370 00:17:04,120 --> 00:17:06,880 I'm going to start with ham, and I'll feed back. 371 00:17:06,880 --> 00:17:09,560 If you did it the other way round, I'd think you were a psychopath. 372 00:17:09,560 --> 00:17:13,560 That's a bit like a Subway. Mm-hm. This... 373 00:17:15,520 --> 00:17:19,000 ..like a standard 99. Could I...? Yeah, of course. Could I? 374 00:17:19,000 --> 00:17:21,200 My funnel's good, but I do get worried I might... 375 00:17:21,200 --> 00:17:23,840 It's also known as a funnel cake. ..go into it and get a bit... 376 00:17:23,840 --> 00:17:27,440 That's the only trouble with getting in. 377 00:17:27,440 --> 00:17:30,640 It's hard to eat. You're making elegant work of it. 378 00:17:30,640 --> 00:17:34,640 I think sometimes you either have class or you don't. You know? 379 00:17:37,200 --> 00:17:40,120 Before our digestive tracts take us to task, 380 00:17:40,120 --> 00:17:42,600 we head for the frankly ethereal Children's Railway, 381 00:17:42,600 --> 00:17:44,720 where all jobs apart from the driver - 382 00:17:44,720 --> 00:17:47,080 because what child wants to be an engine driver? - 383 00:17:47,080 --> 00:17:48,800 are discharged by kids. 384 00:17:48,800 --> 00:17:50,200 Here we go. 385 00:17:50,200 --> 00:17:52,000 Look at this stone-faced killer. Order. 386 00:17:52,000 --> 00:17:53,840 Hello, young man. 387 00:17:53,840 --> 00:17:57,040 SHE SPEAKS HUNGARIAN 388 00:17:57,040 --> 00:18:01,040 I have no doubt in my mind that all of these children are ghosts. 389 00:18:03,360 --> 00:18:05,640 Oh! 390 00:18:05,640 --> 00:18:07,640 Oh! Oh, hello. Hello. 391 00:18:07,640 --> 00:18:09,440 I'm going to try not to be patronising. OK. 392 00:18:09,440 --> 00:18:13,440 You work on the train? Very good! 393 00:18:16,120 --> 00:18:19,000 Originally set up for the youth wing of the Communist Party 394 00:18:19,000 --> 00:18:20,480 to promote teamwork, 395 00:18:20,480 --> 00:18:24,480 this piece of juve-nalia has been chuffing through Buda since 1948. 396 00:18:25,840 --> 00:18:27,480 Oooh! 397 00:18:27,480 --> 00:18:31,480 Ehh-ehh! 398 00:18:33,720 --> 00:18:37,080 The ticket? Oh, yes. Thank you. 399 00:18:37,080 --> 00:18:39,920 I don't know if I agree with child labour. Thank you. 400 00:18:39,920 --> 00:18:42,200 No, I don't think they're paid, so is it labour? 401 00:18:42,200 --> 00:18:45,080 Do you get money to work here? 402 00:18:45,080 --> 00:18:47,480 Er, no. What have women fought for, 403 00:18:47,480 --> 00:18:51,200 only to have our daughters working on trains for free? 404 00:18:51,200 --> 00:18:53,040 This is your daughter? Yeah. 405 00:18:53,040 --> 00:18:57,040 Well, this is an embarrassing way to meet up again. Mm. 406 00:18:59,760 --> 00:19:01,800 HE SPEAKS HUNGARIAN 407 00:19:01,800 --> 00:19:03,400 I think he might be talking to us. 408 00:19:03,400 --> 00:19:06,120 Yes, I think that means the buffet car is closed. 409 00:19:06,120 --> 00:19:10,120 So we should leave. 410 00:19:12,320 --> 00:19:15,840 Bye. Bye. Thank you, children friends. 411 00:19:15,840 --> 00:19:17,680 Let's just step across these tracks. 412 00:19:17,680 --> 00:19:21,680 Yeah, that's normally worked out well for people, hasn't it(?) 413 00:19:25,920 --> 00:19:29,920 They grow up so fast, Richard. 414 00:19:31,360 --> 00:19:33,040 To fully leverage our position 415 00:19:33,040 --> 00:19:35,080 at the drizzle-doused apex of Janos Hill, 416 00:19:35,080 --> 00:19:36,560 the highest peak in Budapest, 417 00:19:36,560 --> 00:19:40,560 we head for the adult-operated Zugliget chairlift. 418 00:19:42,480 --> 00:19:45,760 OK, straight in. Down. OK, down. Sit. 419 00:19:45,760 --> 00:19:47,560 Oh, God! 420 00:19:47,560 --> 00:19:51,560 Ow! Ow! That's my shin. 421 00:19:53,320 --> 00:19:54,880 Ohh! 422 00:19:54,880 --> 00:19:58,880 Look at that view. 423 00:19:58,920 --> 00:20:01,480 There's some great gobbing opportunities from up here, 424 00:20:01,480 --> 00:20:03,240 if we were punks. Yeah. 425 00:20:03,240 --> 00:20:05,800 Were you ever one of those kids, one of those teenagers, 426 00:20:05,800 --> 00:20:07,120 who used to spit? 427 00:20:07,120 --> 00:20:10,400 Well, I did come from Ipswich, but no. 428 00:20:10,400 --> 00:20:13,240 You do not want to have an argument at the top of this. No. 429 00:20:13,240 --> 00:20:16,640 Because it's 1km. 15 mins. 430 00:20:16,640 --> 00:20:18,880 That's a long sulk. I've done it. 431 00:20:18,880 --> 00:20:21,800 You've sat in a sulk for that long? I've gone days. 432 00:20:21,800 --> 00:20:25,800 "No, no, it's fine. Fine, I'm fine." Is something wrong? 433 00:20:25,800 --> 00:20:28,760 Seems like you're putting that on me. 434 00:20:28,760 --> 00:20:31,120 Do you...? Sorry, I was just trying to read. It's just... 435 00:20:31,120 --> 00:20:32,680 Do you want to talk about something? 436 00:20:32,680 --> 00:20:35,080 It just feels like your silence is very loud. 437 00:20:35,080 --> 00:20:37,120 Ohh! Why don't you just say what's on your mind, 438 00:20:37,120 --> 00:20:38,560 rather than telling me how I feel? 439 00:20:38,560 --> 00:20:41,880 Oh, you're good at it! You're so clever at that. Thank you. 440 00:20:41,880 --> 00:20:45,880 Ohh! You must be a nightmare to be married to. Oh, it's tough. 441 00:20:47,640 --> 00:20:51,240 After a further 15 minutes of unmotivated personal attacks, 442 00:20:51,240 --> 00:20:54,480 I feel the reassuring sensation of foliage underfoot. 443 00:20:54,480 --> 00:20:57,040 SHE HUMS 444 00:20:57,040 --> 00:21:00,440 Are we about to sweep into someone's garden? 445 00:21:00,440 --> 00:21:03,680 1970 was a bad year for whoever bought this property. 446 00:21:03,680 --> 00:21:06,000 They must have gone, "Oh, come on!" 447 00:21:06,000 --> 00:21:09,200 I've actually really enjoyed this little trip. I loved it. 448 00:21:09,200 --> 00:21:12,720 The only thing that could have made this more connective 449 00:21:12,720 --> 00:21:15,840 to inner peace would be if we were colouring in a little book, 450 00:21:15,840 --> 00:21:19,840 maybe an ironic picture book of Tom Hiddleston. 451 00:21:20,440 --> 00:21:22,080 Land looms below, 452 00:21:22,080 --> 00:21:25,840 and our protracted dangle comes to a merciful end. 453 00:21:25,840 --> 00:21:28,160 Off we get. 454 00:21:28,160 --> 00:21:29,760 Thank you. 455 00:21:29,760 --> 00:21:31,520 Hey, high-five. 456 00:21:31,520 --> 00:21:34,400 Nailed it. 457 00:21:34,400 --> 00:21:38,160 With our remaining time in Budapest slipping through our clammy mitts, 458 00:21:38,160 --> 00:21:40,880 we decide to swivel the lens on our sorry selves 459 00:21:40,880 --> 00:21:43,400 for a final soul-sapping snap. 460 00:21:43,400 --> 00:21:46,520 Richard, where the hell are we? St Stephen's Basilica. 461 00:21:46,520 --> 00:21:49,680 Finished in 1905. Took 50 years cos the central dome kept collapsing. 462 00:21:49,680 --> 00:21:53,680 It's also got a 9.5-tonne bell. Document it. 463 00:21:53,920 --> 00:21:57,920 Move on. We're out of here. 464 00:21:59,800 --> 00:22:03,400 After a trim trawl to the tune of ?4.70, 465 00:22:03,400 --> 00:22:04,720 we have little left to do 466 00:22:04,720 --> 00:22:08,720 but recount our vast accomplishments in this most Buda of pests. 467 00:22:08,840 --> 00:22:11,520 Koszonom, Richard. 468 00:22:11,520 --> 00:22:12,720 Well... 469 00:22:12,720 --> 00:22:16,720 let's see if Hungarian champagne is as good as everyone says. Mm! 470 00:22:17,400 --> 00:22:20,320 Cos the word on the street is that it's average. 471 00:22:20,320 --> 00:22:22,240 I'm sure it's good. I can't drink champagne. 472 00:22:22,240 --> 00:22:24,480 It's too associated with fun and revelry. 473 00:22:24,480 --> 00:22:28,440 Let us commence our assessment. 474 00:22:28,440 --> 00:22:29,520 First of all, 475 00:22:29,520 --> 00:22:32,920 I feel like Budapest brought its 'A' game architecturally. 476 00:22:32,920 --> 00:22:35,360 I've enjoyed the diffidence of the people. 477 00:22:35,360 --> 00:22:37,920 If I knew what "diffidence" was, I'd absolutely high-five you. 478 00:22:37,920 --> 00:22:40,920 Thank you. The Children's Railway. Yes. 479 00:22:40,920 --> 00:22:43,800 Why are they not at school? Why are they not getting paid? 480 00:22:43,800 --> 00:22:45,120 Why are they all ghosts? 481 00:22:45,120 --> 00:22:46,880 Why did they turn their heads round 360? 482 00:22:46,880 --> 00:22:49,160 Why did they open their mouths and they had black tongues? 483 00:22:49,160 --> 00:22:50,960 Why were their backs all stitched? 484 00:22:50,960 --> 00:22:54,200 I got a chill just there, Richard, even thinking about those children. 485 00:22:54,200 --> 00:22:57,000 No, they were good lads. Would you like to "cheers"? 486 00:22:57,000 --> 00:22:59,560 This is my one Hungarian phrase I remembered. 487 00:22:59,560 --> 00:23:03,560 Egeszsegere. To better times. To better times. 488 00:23:04,040 --> 00:23:08,040 Next time, a Canarian caper round Tenerife with Lena Dunham. 489 00:23:09,000 --> 00:23:13,000 There! Yes! Yes. Yes. 490 00:23:25,760 --> 00:23:32,000 Subtitles by Ericsson 491 00:23:32,000 --> 00:23:33,000