1 00:00:02,500 --> 00:00:05,219 Queen Victoria didn't get out much. 2 00:00:05,260 --> 00:00:07,490 She certainly never saw most of her empire. 3 00:00:07,540 --> 00:00:09,770 So I'm on the journey she never took, 4 00:00:09,820 --> 00:00:14,496 from the tea plantations of Darjeeling to the skyscrapers of Hong Kong, 5 00:00:14,540 --> 00:00:18,692 the jungles of Borneo with their rubber trees and sago worms... 6 00:00:19,740 --> 00:00:22,015 head-hunters, and orang-utans. 7 00:00:22,060 --> 00:00:24,369 I've been to Ghana, the Gold Coast, 8 00:00:24,420 --> 00:00:28,413 with its handsome castles and their slave dungeons... 9 00:00:30,940 --> 00:00:33,977 and I've followed the slave story to the rainforests of Jamaica 10 00:00:34,020 --> 00:00:35,658 where they found their freedom. 11 00:00:37,860 --> 00:00:40,579 And I've landed on the foggy rock of Newfoundland, 12 00:00:40,620 --> 00:00:45,375 where the Transatlantic cable shrank the empire so we could run the world from home. 13 00:00:45,420 --> 00:00:47,411 So where am I going next? 14 00:00:47,460 --> 00:00:49,451 Miles away 15 00:01:27,220 --> 00:01:30,815 I'm headed halfway round the world to a country so beautiful, 16 00:01:30,860 --> 00:01:34,057 the first British settlers couldn't believe their luck when they saw it. 17 00:01:34,100 --> 00:01:36,614 What a shame there were some people already living there. 18 00:01:36,660 --> 00:01:38,139 Let's see if they'll hutch up. 19 00:01:38,180 --> 00:01:40,933 So, I'm off to New Zealand, to the Bay of Islands. 20 00:01:43,060 --> 00:01:45,574 New Zealand has a North and a South Island, 21 00:01:45,620 --> 00:01:47,850 and we're at the tip of the North Island. 22 00:01:47,900 --> 00:01:51,176 It's supposed to have the second bluest sky in the world. 23 00:01:51,220 --> 00:01:53,097 Do you think they're pleased about that? 24 00:01:53,140 --> 00:01:55,210 Or is it a bit annoying to come second? 25 00:01:55,260 --> 00:01:58,138 Are you looking at it now, thinking, "I've seen bluer"? 26 00:02:00,780 --> 00:02:05,251 No one's sure, but they think the first settlers only came here about a thousand years ago. 27 00:02:06,140 --> 00:02:08,176 They migrated from Eastern Polynesia, 28 00:02:08,220 --> 00:02:11,337 and it's those Polynesians who became the Maori. 29 00:02:13,540 --> 00:02:17,579 They were hunters, they were fishermen, and they were warriors. 30 00:02:17,620 --> 00:02:20,578 (Shouting in Maori) 31 00:02:20,620 --> 00:02:22,497 (Chanting in Maori) 32 00:02:33,020 --> 00:02:37,810 And on this bay was a little Maori village with a name that means Sweet Blue Penguin. 33 00:02:37,860 --> 00:02:39,816 But it's called Russell now. 34 00:02:39,860 --> 00:02:43,773 It became a whaling station in the 1800s, and was the first European settlement. 35 00:02:43,820 --> 00:02:46,129 It was full of drunken sailors and convicts. 36 00:02:46,180 --> 00:02:50,139 It was so scary and violent, they called it the Hellhole of the Pacific. 37 00:02:51,340 --> 00:02:55,970 It's a tourist place now. The most scary thing is teenagers who won't get out the stupid way 38 00:02:56,020 --> 00:02:57,976 (Car horn) 39 00:02:59,820 --> 00:03:03,335 It's all very gingham pincushion now, very spruced up. 40 00:03:03,860 --> 00:03:07,899 But then, it was a big, filthy old jumble of Maori and European buildings, 41 00:03:07,940 --> 00:03:11,694 all jammed together, with bars and brothels and guns. 42 00:03:11,740 --> 00:03:14,015 Bit like the Wild West, but with scenery. 43 00:03:21,780 --> 00:03:24,578 But not far from where the drunks and deserters of Russell 44 00:03:24,620 --> 00:03:27,657 were crashing in and out of swing doors, was a more peaceful place. 45 00:03:27,700 --> 00:03:29,691 A place where you didn't need to fight, 46 00:03:29,740 --> 00:03:34,734 where you could take a breath and feel that perhaps, the worst of your struggles were over. 47 00:03:40,340 --> 00:03:42,615 This is Waipu. 48 00:03:42,660 --> 00:03:45,128 Thousands of miles away, in the Highlands of Scotland, 49 00:03:45,180 --> 00:03:48,809 thousands of families were being cleared off their land to make way for sheep farming, 50 00:03:48,860 --> 00:03:52,569 and many people were forced to emigrate or starve. 51 00:03:52,620 --> 00:03:56,090 In 1817, Norman McLeod, a Highland minister, 52 00:03:56,140 --> 00:04:00,770 set out with his family and followers to a new life in Nova Scotia in Canada, 53 00:04:00,820 --> 00:04:04,495 where they would have land and freedom to worship how they wanted. 54 00:04:04,540 --> 00:04:07,418 But the winters were hard there, and when crops failed, 55 00:04:07,460 --> 00:04:09,530 and potato blight led to famine, 56 00:04:09,580 --> 00:04:13,255 they built ships, and, led again by Norman, then in his 60s, 57 00:04:13,300 --> 00:04:15,336 they sailed to Australia. 58 00:04:15,380 --> 00:04:18,099 But the Gold Rush had put the price of land out of their reach, 59 00:04:18,140 --> 00:04:21,291 and they set sail for the last time, and landed here, 60 00:04:21,340 --> 00:04:23,695 in Waipu. 61 00:04:29,820 --> 00:04:34,496 And so, 30 years after he'd left Scotland with those first brave emigrants, 62 00:04:34,540 --> 00:04:38,249 Norman McLeod and his people found what they were looking for. 63 00:04:38,300 --> 00:04:42,452 A place where they could farm and settle and worship how they pleased. 64 00:04:42,500 --> 00:04:46,812 A place that looked very like the Highland landscape they'd left behind. 65 00:04:46,860 --> 00:04:48,976 And they did settle, and they thrived. 66 00:04:49,020 --> 00:04:51,454 They have thousands of descendants in New Zealand. 67 00:04:51,500 --> 00:04:53,491 So it was worth it, in the end, 68 00:04:53,540 --> 00:04:56,373 for all those McLeods and McLeans, and McKenzies, 69 00:04:56,420 --> 00:04:59,059 turning their back on everything they knew, 70 00:04:59,100 --> 00:05:01,091 making that great migration, 71 00:05:01,140 --> 00:05:04,496 taking their beliefs and their hopes and their language 72 00:05:04,540 --> 00:05:06,815 all the way to the other side of the world. 73 00:05:19,220 --> 00:05:21,211 (Shouting in Maori) 74 00:05:24,540 --> 00:05:27,293 But New Zealand wasn't just a haven for emigrants. 75 00:05:27,340 --> 00:05:28,978 It was the land of the Maori. 76 00:05:29,020 --> 00:05:31,011 (Whistling) 77 00:05:40,700 --> 00:05:44,170 And Honay, whose travel company puts on these displays, 78 00:05:44,220 --> 00:05:47,371 has a mission to make people aware of not just their culture, 79 00:05:47,420 --> 00:05:49,411 but their whole history. 80 00:05:56,220 --> 00:05:59,530 So, Honay, the Maori people were here before the white people came. 81 00:05:59,580 --> 00:06:01,969 What was it like? 82 00:06:02,020 --> 00:06:04,534 It must have been beautiful. 83 00:06:04,580 --> 00:06:06,571 There were no fences... 84 00:06:07,580 --> 00:06:09,571 there were no walls, 85 00:06:09,620 --> 00:06:12,180 there were no boundaries. 86 00:06:12,220 --> 00:06:14,973 Everything was open, from the sky, 87 00:06:15,020 --> 00:06:16,817 to the sea, to the land. 88 00:06:16,860 --> 00:06:19,090 It was the sacred house of the Nga Puhi people. 89 00:06:19,140 --> 00:06:23,099 And, by the way, welcome to our house. 90 00:06:23,140 --> 00:06:24,334 Kia ora. 91 00:06:25,500 --> 00:06:28,173 So, what happened when the white people first came? 92 00:06:28,700 --> 00:06:30,338 - It was a good time. - Mm. 93 00:06:30,380 --> 00:06:33,417 Our ancestors saw the potential 94 00:06:33,460 --> 00:06:37,453 for a new type of economic development, internationally. 95 00:06:37,500 --> 00:06:39,536 Mm. So was it reasonably beneficial?. 96 00:06:39,580 --> 00:06:41,491 Very beneficial. 97 00:06:41,540 --> 00:06:44,771 And how long did that state go on for? 98 00:06:44,820 --> 00:06:47,050 Until the Treaty of Waitangi. 99 00:06:47,900 --> 00:06:48,889 (Shouting in Maori) 100 00:06:48,940 --> 00:06:53,058 OK, the Treaty of Waitangi, which was signed in February 1840, 101 00:06:53,100 --> 00:06:55,568 is an agreement between the Maori and the British. 102 00:06:55,620 --> 00:06:57,690 Two versions, one in each language. 103 00:06:57,740 --> 00:07:01,619 It aimed to give protection to the Maori and allow for British settlement. 104 00:07:01,660 --> 00:07:04,811 But there is no direct translation between the two languages, 105 00:07:04,860 --> 00:07:08,375 and both sides seemed to have slightly different understandings 106 00:07:08,420 --> 00:07:10,456 of the meaning of the words used. 107 00:07:11,260 --> 00:07:14,058 The Treaty of Waitangi, in the words of our ancestors, 108 00:07:14,100 --> 00:07:16,375 we retain our "tino rangatiratanga" - 109 00:07:16,420 --> 00:07:17,614 our sovereignty, 110 00:07:17,660 --> 00:07:20,220 and our right to "mamaki tamata" - 111 00:07:20,260 --> 00:07:24,458 to look after the new tribes that are coming here. 112 00:07:24,500 --> 00:07:26,570 And what was the British interpretation? 113 00:07:26,620 --> 00:07:28,576 - The British interpretation? - Mm. 114 00:07:28,620 --> 00:07:31,612 Was that our people would hand over all sovereignty, 115 00:07:31,660 --> 00:07:33,173 and everything to the Queen. 116 00:07:33,220 --> 00:07:36,417 And that's really completely the reverse. 117 00:07:36,460 --> 00:07:41,090 For some reason, the British thought that we really needed them to look after us. 118 00:07:41,660 --> 00:07:43,651 I know, I keep hearing this! 119 00:07:43,700 --> 00:07:46,055 - (Laughs) Every country we go to. - For some reason. 120 00:07:46,100 --> 00:07:49,809 However, we didn't need no one to look after us. 121 00:07:49,860 --> 00:07:52,852 - I know. - We had done a marvellous job of doing that 122 00:07:52,900 --> 00:07:56,336 long before first contact with a European. 123 00:07:56,380 --> 00:07:59,736 To go from the top of the pecking order 124 00:08:01,020 --> 00:08:04,171 - to the bottom...in 150 years. - Mm. 125 00:08:04,220 --> 00:08:08,577 It might take us another 150 years to get back to the top, 126 00:08:08,620 --> 00:08:12,135 but yep, it will eventually happen. 127 00:08:14,820 --> 00:08:18,210 Pecking order. The British had to have a pecking order. 128 00:08:18,260 --> 00:08:20,171 And they had to be at the top. 129 00:08:20,220 --> 00:08:24,054 Treaties might be in two languages, but the important one would be English. 130 00:08:24,100 --> 00:08:27,695 Maoris might have very nice buildings, but we didn't want to live in them. 131 00:08:27,740 --> 00:08:29,776 We wanted the proper white colonial ones 132 00:08:29,820 --> 00:08:33,574 we'd built in all the countries we'd blagged our way into. 133 00:08:33,620 --> 00:08:35,815 I think there's two things going on. 134 00:08:35,860 --> 00:08:39,057 0ne is a sense of entitlement, that the people who are native to these places 135 00:08:39,100 --> 00:08:42,331 are just minding them till the British can get there, 136 00:08:42,380 --> 00:08:44,371 and the other is a sense of superiority, 137 00:08:44,420 --> 00:08:47,218 based not just on the fact that Britain is a civilised nation 138 00:08:47,260 --> 00:08:49,091 and knows how things should be done, 139 00:08:49,140 --> 00:08:52,894 but that we are white, they are dark, like Africans, 140 00:08:52,940 --> 00:08:57,889 and like Africans, the Maori are perceived as savage and slightly less than human. 141 00:09:04,900 --> 00:09:06,936 Russell's more or less a tourist place now. 142 00:09:06,980 --> 00:09:11,258 To get an idea of how the whole European-Maori hoo-ha played out, 143 00:09:11,300 --> 00:09:14,497 we have to go to somewhere bigger, so we're going to Auckland. 144 00:09:14,540 --> 00:09:16,895 It all looks very English, doesn't it? 145 00:09:16,940 --> 00:09:19,693 Just a strange lack of pensioners picnicking in lay-bys, 146 00:09:19,740 --> 00:09:22,777 and no stripy plastic bags caught in the trees. 147 00:09:33,540 --> 00:09:35,451 And here we are, Auckland, 148 00:09:35,500 --> 00:09:40,051 always turning up in the top five cities in the world for quality of life. 149 00:09:44,300 --> 00:09:46,370 0ne in five people own a boat here. 150 00:09:46,420 --> 00:09:51,448 As opposed to where I live, where one in five people have an asthma inhaler. 151 00:09:51,500 --> 00:09:53,695 It's a big centre for sailing and adventure sports, 152 00:09:53,740 --> 00:09:56,300 there's hundreds of ways of getting hurt, getting wet 153 00:09:56,340 --> 00:09:58,410 or just scaring the pants off yourself. 154 00:09:58,460 --> 00:10:02,373 It's got three harbours, two mountain ranges, a rainforest, loads of volcanoes... 155 00:10:02,420 --> 00:10:05,651 That's one. Mount Victoria, dormant, I'm hoping. 156 00:10:05,700 --> 00:10:09,659 And lots of middle-aged men trying to prove something. Whoa 157 00:10:11,620 --> 00:10:13,451 There's those nice white houses again. 158 00:10:15,700 --> 00:10:20,012 But although Auckland has this almost too English look about it, without the litter, 159 00:10:20,060 --> 00:10:25,418 and a lot of the big, lumpy public buildings that at home, we prefer to cover in pigeons, 160 00:10:26,540 --> 00:10:32,456 it is very cosmopolitan, it doesn't feel like somewhere that's bogged down in the past. 161 00:10:34,140 --> 00:10:37,257 The population's very mixed. 50% are European, 162 00:10:37,300 --> 00:10:40,292 and the rest are a mixture of Asians and Polynesians, 163 00:10:40,340 --> 00:10:42,808 and about 10% are Maori. 164 00:10:42,860 --> 00:10:46,409 And they are integrated, but there still is a huge amount of controversy 165 00:10:46,460 --> 00:10:48,894 about the Waitangi Treaty and about the Maori. 166 00:10:49,940 --> 00:10:53,535 Some people think they're hard done by and deserve to be recompensed, 167 00:10:53,580 --> 00:10:56,048 and there's another view that they get too many hand-outs, 168 00:10:56,100 --> 00:10:57,738 and they don't work hard enough. 169 00:10:57,780 --> 00:11:00,658 This isn't something people are afraid to talk about, by the way. 170 00:11:00,700 --> 00:11:03,931 (Man on radio) ..0800 RadioLIVE, 0800 723465. 171 00:11:03,980 --> 00:11:05,811 Maori have made a huge contribution here. 172 00:11:05,860 --> 00:11:09,170 Sure, we've got problems, but they're nowhere near as bad as Lindsay makes out. 173 00:11:09,220 --> 00:11:10,972 (Second man) And we get sick and tired... 174 00:11:11,020 --> 00:11:14,137 (Victoria) I'm here to take part in Willie Jackson's radio show. 175 00:11:14,180 --> 00:11:16,535 (Woman) I'm a Maori businesswoman. (Man) Yes. 176 00:11:16,580 --> 00:11:19,811 (Woman) I pay my damn taxes. We're not all on welfare, not all useless. 177 00:11:19,860 --> 00:11:21,498 But, no, no, no, I never said that. 178 00:11:21,540 --> 00:11:23,610 - You implied it. - I applaud people like you. No! 179 00:11:23,660 --> 00:11:26,618 (Victoria) That's Willie. He's an MP. He's left-wing. 180 00:11:26,660 --> 00:11:29,857 - That's Lindsay Perrigo. He's not. - (Woman) We're not all on welfare... 181 00:11:29,900 --> 00:11:33,051 (Victoria) And that's me. And I'll be lucky to get a word in edgeways. 182 00:11:33,100 --> 00:11:35,694 You see, I'm part of...my ancestors. 183 00:11:35,740 --> 00:11:37,332 He doesn't give a stuff about his. 184 00:11:37,380 --> 00:11:39,769 - And that's how, unfortunately... - You know... 185 00:11:39,820 --> 00:11:41,333 ..some of them think. 186 00:11:41,380 --> 00:11:45,168 (Victoria) Lindsay seems very right-wing, but I think a lot if it's just to be annoying. 187 00:11:45,220 --> 00:11:46,448 (Woman) We've heard a lot... 188 00:11:46,500 --> 00:11:50,049 (Victoria) Don't you think he looks like Comic Book Man in The Simpsons? 189 00:11:50,100 --> 00:11:53,058 The problem is, too many of you want to be paid to breed 190 00:11:53,100 --> 00:11:56,490 kids who are not wanted and who get bashed up and killed. 191 00:11:56,540 --> 00:11:59,179 Who are the families killing their kids, Willie? 192 00:11:59,220 --> 00:12:02,815 (Victoria) Did he just say too many Maoris are killing their kids? He did, didn't he? 193 00:12:02,860 --> 00:12:04,976 Too many Maori are killing their kids. 194 00:12:05,020 --> 00:12:06,897 OK, and they're all on welfare. 195 00:12:06,940 --> 00:12:09,659 - Too many are on welfare. - They're having kids, 196 00:12:09,700 --> 00:12:13,136 they are being paid by the taxpayer to have kids that they don't want. 197 00:12:13,180 --> 00:12:15,410 It's tribalism versus individualism 198 00:12:15,460 --> 00:12:17,451 and there's an historic showdown here, 199 00:12:17,500 --> 00:12:20,492 and if you guys don't move away from tribalism, you're stuffed. 200 00:12:20,540 --> 00:12:22,178 No, no. Tribalism's important. 201 00:12:22,220 --> 00:12:25,610 You seem to think that you did us a great favour by coming here. 202 00:12:25,660 --> 00:12:28,333 Yes, we did. We saved you from yourselves. 203 00:12:28,380 --> 00:12:31,019 - We were killing each other? - Stopped you eating each other. 204 00:12:31,060 --> 00:12:34,336 (Victoria) You can't say that on the radio. Wouldn't get this with Ken Bruce. 205 00:12:34,380 --> 00:12:36,940 - ..enjoying life. - I've got to move on. Sorry. 206 00:12:36,980 --> 00:12:39,210 - You weren't keen on that. - No, that was a good call. 207 00:12:39,260 --> 00:12:41,330 - You need to hear that. - I agree with a lot... 208 00:12:41,380 --> 00:12:43,530 - Take that on board. - Don't patronise me. 209 00:12:43,580 --> 00:12:44,979 Oh, Willie! 210 00:12:45,020 --> 00:12:47,580 (Victoria) I think Lindsay's a lot nicer than he makes out. 211 00:12:47,620 --> 00:12:49,417 My worry is that when he leaves here, 212 00:12:49,460 --> 00:12:51,496 he'll be sat at home on his own with a Pot Noodle. 213 00:12:51,540 --> 00:12:55,658 Our people, unlike other indigenous people, wanted to work with the British, 214 00:12:55,700 --> 00:12:59,010 we trusted them with the Treaty of Waitangi, they betrayed us, Victoria. 215 00:12:59,060 --> 00:13:01,574 - You should be ashamed of yourself. - I am, thoroughly. 216 00:13:01,620 --> 00:13:05,613 Yes. But they make a joke of it, cos that's how they treat the indigenous people. 217 00:13:05,660 --> 00:13:07,776 Get off the grievance gravy train. 218 00:13:07,820 --> 00:13:10,050 (Victoria) 0oh. Grievance gravy train. I like that. 219 00:13:10,100 --> 00:13:13,775 Do they have trains here, or just boats? Should that be grievance gravy boat? 220 00:13:13,820 --> 00:13:15,811 No, forget that he's brown and I'm white... 221 00:13:15,860 --> 00:13:19,170 (Victoria) Lindsay, I wouldn't care if you were navy blue, just stop talking 222 00:13:19,220 --> 00:13:21,211 And I know you like Mario Lanza. Let's have some. 223 00:13:22,740 --> 00:13:27,575 # Lonely as a desert breeze 224 00:13:27,620 --> 00:13:32,136 # I may wander where I please # 225 00:13:32,180 --> 00:13:35,058 No, that's not me. Though there was something about that debate 226 00:13:35,100 --> 00:13:37,933 that made me wish I was dangling by my ankles off a high bridge. 227 00:13:37,980 --> 00:13:42,292 # Just to rest awhile # 228 00:13:44,620 --> 00:13:47,373 This is Tasmania, it's part of Australia. 229 00:13:47,420 --> 00:13:51,971 It's an island 125 miles to the south of the eastern side of the continent, 230 00:13:52,020 --> 00:13:55,137 and this is where the first settlers came in the 1800s, 231 00:13:55,180 --> 00:13:57,250 but not by choice. 232 00:13:57,300 --> 00:13:59,291 It was called Van Diemen's Land then 233 00:13:59,340 --> 00:14:01,615 and it was very popular with the British, 234 00:14:01,660 --> 00:14:04,618 not so much because of the scenery or the fresh air, 235 00:14:04,660 --> 00:14:07,857 but because it was a very, very long way away from Britain. 236 00:14:12,580 --> 00:14:15,856 And if you had a load of convicts you didn't have room for at home, 237 00:14:15,900 --> 00:14:19,131 you could ship them out here, sweep them under the colonial carpet, 238 00:14:19,180 --> 00:14:21,171 and forget about them. 239 00:14:25,780 --> 00:14:29,568 This is Hobart, it's the biggest city in Tasmania, it's the capital. 240 00:14:33,420 --> 00:14:36,810 Every tourist destination has to have a logo or catchphrase. 241 00:14:36,860 --> 00:14:40,899 Auckland's was "City of Sails". As in boats, not jumble. 242 00:14:41,980 --> 00:14:45,211 Tasmania's, because of its relatively unspoilt environment, 243 00:14:45,260 --> 00:14:47,535 is "Island of Rejuvenation". 244 00:14:48,580 --> 00:14:50,810 That's why I'm stood out here in the freezing cold. 245 00:14:50,860 --> 00:14:53,055 There's beautiful fresh air and a nice view, 246 00:14:53,100 --> 00:14:55,534 but, nope, still 53. 247 00:15:00,300 --> 00:15:03,053 I know I sound like some old Nelly, saying, "0oh, it's lovely fresh air," 248 00:15:03,100 --> 00:15:05,819 but it does feel like the cleanest place in the world. 249 00:15:05,860 --> 00:15:08,294 And I don't just mean compared with places like London, 250 00:15:08,340 --> 00:15:10,649 which is like having an old net curtain over your face. 251 00:15:10,700 --> 00:15:13,851 Even coming from Newfoundland, you can notice the difference. 252 00:15:15,900 --> 00:15:18,858 And I've just realised why it looks English but not. 253 00:15:18,900 --> 00:15:21,175 It's that there's no people. 254 00:15:21,220 --> 00:15:22,414 There's nobody about. 255 00:15:22,460 --> 00:15:26,294 Anywhere this pretty at home would be awash with ramblers with maps round their necks 256 00:15:26,340 --> 00:15:29,537 and coach parties of biddies looking for a sit-down. 257 00:15:29,580 --> 00:15:31,172 And it is pretty, isn't it? 258 00:15:31,220 --> 00:15:34,178 It's like Midsomer Murders without the acting. 259 00:15:34,220 --> 00:15:36,893 You know real travellers are very sniffy about tourists, 260 00:15:36,940 --> 00:15:39,818 and they come back from places and go, "Oh, it was full of tourists"? 261 00:15:39,860 --> 00:15:42,215 Well, I am one of those tourists that places are full of, 262 00:15:42,260 --> 00:15:45,138 and I'm quite unashamed about it, cos I really like being a tourist. 263 00:15:45,180 --> 00:15:47,410 I like being told what to do and what to look at, 264 00:15:47,460 --> 00:15:50,338 and I'll go and look at any museum, Bakelite, ball bearings, 265 00:15:50,380 --> 00:15:52,496 I love any place where there's a lady in a mobcap 266 00:15:52,540 --> 00:15:54,610 pretending to be somebody from the olden days. 267 00:15:54,660 --> 00:15:59,654 And I really like real places, and I especially like prisons. 268 00:15:59,700 --> 00:16:04,649 I think there's something about going to the actual place where somebody was kept 269 00:16:04,700 --> 00:16:08,136 to stand on the stones, to stand in the cell, 270 00:16:08,180 --> 00:16:10,455 to be within those walls, 271 00:16:11,180 --> 00:16:15,014 and think that, you know, any of us could have ended up in one of those places, 272 00:16:15,060 --> 00:16:17,858 especially coming to somewhere like Australia or Tasmania, 273 00:16:17,900 --> 00:16:20,778 and you know that so many British convicts were transported there, 274 00:16:20,820 --> 00:16:24,051 for really quite small crimes, things I've done myself, like shoplifting. 275 00:16:24,100 --> 00:16:26,250 You don't need to know that, but I've told you now. 276 00:16:26,300 --> 00:16:30,976 Things like stealing a loaf of bread, or taking a hanky, or keeping somebody's laundry. 277 00:16:31,020 --> 00:16:34,330 And they were sent so many miles, 278 00:16:34,380 --> 00:16:36,940 and ended up... 279 00:16:36,980 --> 00:16:39,255 in that tiny space. 280 00:16:49,620 --> 00:16:52,532 For the convicts shipped halfway round the world to Australia, 281 00:16:52,580 --> 00:16:54,730 the odds of escaping were never very high. 282 00:16:54,780 --> 00:16:58,295 But here on this peninsula, they shrank to almost zero. 283 00:16:58,340 --> 00:17:00,695 This prison, Port Arthur, 284 00:17:00,740 --> 00:17:03,015 is surrounded on three sides by water. 285 00:17:03,060 --> 00:17:05,335 It would take a day to row back to Hobart. 286 00:17:05,380 --> 00:17:08,292 And the tiny spit of land that joins it to the mainland 287 00:17:08,340 --> 00:17:10,331 was heavily guarded by savage dogs. 288 00:17:10,380 --> 00:17:12,894 And in case anybody was tempted to swim for it, 289 00:17:12,940 --> 00:17:18,253 the men were told, though it wasn't true, that the waters were shark-infested. 290 00:17:22,660 --> 00:17:24,776 We've seen this all over the empire, 291 00:17:24,820 --> 00:17:29,336 a beautiful landscape with a big, old, incongruous box plonked on it, 292 00:17:29,380 --> 00:17:31,496 British bricks and iron bars. 293 00:17:31,540 --> 00:17:33,849 Port Arthur was modelled on Pentonville, 294 00:17:33,900 --> 00:17:38,018 but in Pentonville, you at least had the chance of news from the outside world. 295 00:17:38,060 --> 00:17:40,893 You were behind bars, but you were at home. 296 00:17:40,940 --> 00:17:43,374 The prisoners who landed here to start their sentence 297 00:17:43,420 --> 00:17:46,617 must have felt they'd arrived at the end of the world. 298 00:17:46,660 --> 00:17:49,174 (Woman) When they arrive, they're marched off the ship, 299 00:17:49,220 --> 00:17:52,257 and they're read about an hour and half's worth of regulations, 300 00:17:52,300 --> 00:17:54,211 all of which they're expected to remember, 301 00:17:54,260 --> 00:17:55,693 - on pain of punishment. - Yeah. 302 00:17:55,740 --> 00:17:58,971 Julia, who works here, said it's mainly the tough guys who got sent here. 303 00:17:59,020 --> 00:18:00,692 The persistent reoffenders. 304 00:18:00,740 --> 00:18:03,459 But it still seems a bit drastic. 305 00:18:03,500 --> 00:18:05,570 - They're marched down to here... - Yeah. 306 00:18:05,620 --> 00:18:08,498 ..where they were given their clothes, banged up in a cell, 307 00:18:08,540 --> 00:18:12,453 with a wooden door with a little hatch in it, that your food would be put through. 308 00:18:13,740 --> 00:18:16,618 Those walls are the cell walls. 309 00:18:16,660 --> 00:18:19,220 That's the width of the cell. 310 00:18:19,260 --> 00:18:24,414 In the middle of all this openness, they were confined in the smallest possible space. 311 00:18:24,460 --> 00:18:27,657 They work from dawn till dusk, 312 00:18:27,700 --> 00:18:30,339 felling enormous trees, 150 feet long, 313 00:18:30,380 --> 00:18:32,814 carrying them bodily out of the forest. 314 00:18:32,860 --> 00:18:35,328 - Are they chained up while they're doing that? - They are. 315 00:18:35,380 --> 00:18:37,655 And they might also be sent to the quarries, 316 00:18:37,700 --> 00:18:41,852 where they're quarrying the stone to build the buildings for Port Arthur. 317 00:18:41,900 --> 00:18:44,698 In later periods, if they're exceptionally badly behaved, 318 00:18:44,740 --> 00:18:46,537 they're sent off round to the coal mines. 319 00:18:46,580 --> 00:18:48,536 What was the general length of the sentence? 320 00:18:48,580 --> 00:18:52,050 A lot of men came here with anything from seven to 21 years. 321 00:18:52,100 --> 00:18:56,457 But if they kept reoffending, time was simply added to their sentence. 322 00:18:56,500 --> 00:18:58,889 And some men were here for 40 years. 323 00:18:58,940 --> 00:19:02,569 It wasn't all adults. There was a separate block for young offenders. 324 00:19:02,620 --> 00:19:06,374 The British Empire's first juvenile detention centre. 325 00:19:06,420 --> 00:19:08,934 (Julia) A lot of the boys were street kids, 326 00:19:08,980 --> 00:19:11,414 from the slums of England's industrial cities. 327 00:19:11,460 --> 00:19:14,020 - And how old were they? - The youngest was nine. 328 00:19:14,060 --> 00:19:18,770 That was young James Lynch, who was transported for stealing three boxes of toys. 329 00:19:20,660 --> 00:19:22,252 - It's not exactly heroin, is it? - No. 330 00:19:24,100 --> 00:19:26,375 When you hear about these really harsh conditions, 331 00:19:26,420 --> 00:19:30,095 you always want someone to have done something ingenious and got away. 332 00:19:30,140 --> 00:19:32,813 We know about someone who nearly got away, Billy Hunt. 333 00:19:32,860 --> 00:19:35,658 (Julia) Billy Hunt was an actor by trade. (Victoria) Mm. 334 00:19:35,700 --> 00:19:39,534 And he escaped and made his way to Eaglehawk Neck. 335 00:19:39,580 --> 00:19:43,016 And not far from Eaglehawk Neck, he found a dead kangaroo. 336 00:19:43,060 --> 00:19:45,494 So he skinned the kangaroo, and put the hide on, 337 00:19:45,540 --> 00:19:47,974 and decided he was going to hop across Eaglehawk Neck. 338 00:19:48,020 --> 00:19:51,137 So he put the kangaroo skin on, and he's hopping across the Neck, 339 00:19:51,180 --> 00:19:53,375 but one of the soldiers on duty thought, 340 00:19:53,420 --> 00:19:56,218 "Mm. That looks like a delicious addition to tonight's menu," 341 00:19:56,260 --> 00:19:59,935 and raised his rifle, and Billy Hunt threw off the kangaroo skin... 342 00:19:59,980 --> 00:20:02,938 - "Don't shoot." - And said, "Don't shoot! It's only Billy Hunt!" 343 00:20:02,980 --> 00:20:04,254 - That's brilliant. - Yeah. 344 00:20:04,300 --> 00:20:06,131 - So he never got away? - He didn't get away. 345 00:20:06,180 --> 00:20:07,977 - What was he in for? - Nothing serious. 346 00:20:08,020 --> 00:20:09,578 - Overacting. - Yes! 347 00:20:14,220 --> 00:20:18,179 A lot of the convicts in Tasmania were already damaged and brutalised 348 00:20:18,220 --> 00:20:20,654 by the flogging that was a routine punishment. 349 00:20:20,700 --> 00:20:24,739 And they can't have felt they had much to lose by trying to get away. 350 00:20:24,780 --> 00:20:27,533 But one escape attempt had shocking consequences. 351 00:20:27,580 --> 00:20:33,098 In September 1822, a convict work party felling trees turned on their overseer, 352 00:20:33,140 --> 00:20:37,258 stole a boat and rowed across the harbour and vanished into the forest. 353 00:20:44,300 --> 00:20:47,133 Greenhill and his friend Travis led the way. 354 00:20:47,180 --> 00:20:52,015 At the end of the first day, they baked flour and water over the fire, and ate it. 355 00:20:52,060 --> 00:20:55,609 But the flour had been laced with something to stop the prisoners hoarding it, 356 00:20:55,660 --> 00:20:59,016 and it made them hallucinate, which didn't really help what was to follow. 357 00:20:59,060 --> 00:21:01,733 At the end of the first week, they'd eaten all their rations, 358 00:21:01,780 --> 00:21:04,931 and they took their kangaroo-skin jackets and roasted them over the fire, 359 00:21:04,980 --> 00:21:06,572 and ate them. 360 00:21:06,620 --> 00:21:09,657 The next night, a man, Kenelly, said to another man, Pearce, 361 00:21:09,700 --> 00:21:12,260 that he was so hungry he could eat a man. 362 00:21:12,300 --> 00:21:15,770 And Greenhill, obviously not famed for his sense of humour, went, "Mm." 363 00:21:15,820 --> 00:21:18,857 And he gathered them together and he said, "I think we should eat a man, 364 00:21:18,900 --> 00:21:21,460 "but I think we should agree that we will all do it." 365 00:21:22,420 --> 00:21:25,537 That night, one of the men, Dalton, was lying by the fire, asleep. 366 00:21:25,580 --> 00:21:28,538 They came up with an axe, hit him over the head, killed him. 367 00:21:28,580 --> 00:21:31,048 They roasted his heart and liver over the fire, 368 00:21:31,100 --> 00:21:35,935 and they chopped up the rest of him and put it in their pockets for tomorrow's packed lunch. 369 00:21:35,980 --> 00:21:38,938 The next day, they drew lots to see who should be killed. 370 00:21:38,980 --> 00:21:40,971 It was a man called Thomas Bodenham. 371 00:21:41,020 --> 00:21:43,215 He knelt by the fire, to make his peace with God, 372 00:21:43,260 --> 00:21:46,536 they bonked him on the head with an axe, killed him, and ate him. 373 00:21:46,580 --> 00:21:48,855 They walked on through the forest. 374 00:21:49,860 --> 00:21:52,249 Travis is bitten on the foot by a deadly snake, 375 00:21:52,300 --> 00:21:54,814 and lies down and says, "Just leave me. I want to die." 376 00:21:54,860 --> 00:21:57,499 Well, they don't want to leave him, because he's dinner. 377 00:21:57,540 --> 00:21:59,770 So they pick him up, drag him a little bit further, 378 00:21:59,820 --> 00:22:02,254 his foot turns black, he says he can't walk any further, 379 00:22:02,300 --> 00:22:04,291 Greenhill looks down on him, 380 00:22:04,340 --> 00:22:07,173 kills him, cries, eats him. 381 00:22:07,940 --> 00:22:09,851 So then there's only two of them left. 382 00:22:09,900 --> 00:22:11,891 There's Greenhill and Pearce. 383 00:22:11,940 --> 00:22:14,613 So that night, they're sitting on either side of the fire, 384 00:22:14,660 --> 00:22:16,651 they're staring at each other. 385 00:22:16,700 --> 00:22:20,488 They know whichever one falls asleep first has had it. 386 00:22:21,540 --> 00:22:26,170 Hours pass. Eventually, Greenhill's eyes start to close. 387 00:22:26,220 --> 00:22:29,337 He's asleep on the ground with the axe under his head. 388 00:22:29,380 --> 00:22:32,816 Pearce tiptoes over, takes the axe from under his head, 389 00:22:32,860 --> 00:22:35,294 hits him, kills him, eats his arm, 390 00:22:35,340 --> 00:22:38,537 eats his leg, runs into a field, screaming mad, 391 00:22:38,580 --> 00:22:41,048 and is just tearing into a lamb, 392 00:22:41,100 --> 00:22:43,739 when he's arrested by a sheep farmer with a gun. 393 00:22:45,820 --> 00:22:47,811 They took Pearce back to the prison 394 00:22:47,860 --> 00:22:50,977 and he told them the story of the cannibalism and they didn't believe him. 395 00:22:51,020 --> 00:22:54,899 They thought it was a cover story for all the others that had escaped and were still alive. 396 00:22:54,940 --> 00:22:57,534 A year later, he escaped again, 397 00:22:57,580 --> 00:22:59,696 and ate another convict. 398 00:22:59,740 --> 00:23:01,173 And then they believed him. 399 00:23:07,620 --> 00:23:10,339 Don't worry. They're only peanut butter. 400 00:23:21,340 --> 00:23:25,174 The convicts who served their sentences and didn't eat each other's arms and legs 401 00:23:25,220 --> 00:23:26,778 or dress up as kangaroos, 402 00:23:26,820 --> 00:23:31,416 often chose to settle here rather than take that long, hazardous journey home to Britain. 403 00:23:31,460 --> 00:23:34,657 But Australia was a huge, unknown continent. 404 00:23:34,700 --> 00:23:37,134 The interior was unmapped and unexplored. 405 00:23:37,940 --> 00:23:41,819 The state of Victoria was hugely rich, because of its gold fields. 406 00:23:41,860 --> 00:23:46,172 And the money was there for a big expedition that would unlock the secrets of the interior 407 00:23:46,220 --> 00:23:50,771 and show the rest of the world that they were a knowledgeable and sophisticated society. 408 00:23:50,820 --> 00:23:54,051 The expedition was led by two men, Burke and Wills, 409 00:23:54,100 --> 00:23:59,732 and it was a risky trip to undertake with no bush survival skills amongst the party. 410 00:23:59,780 --> 00:24:02,453 Les Hiddens is an expert in the outback, 411 00:24:02,500 --> 00:24:05,014 and he thinks it was doomed before it started. 412 00:24:06,020 --> 00:24:08,580 They put this thing together and it was like a circus. 413 00:24:08,620 --> 00:24:13,774 Because there was camels and the entourage went for something like a quarter of a mile. 414 00:24:13,820 --> 00:24:17,256 They even carried along, you know, gallons and gallons of rum. 415 00:24:17,300 --> 00:24:20,212 For the camels, not for the men! Right? 416 00:24:20,260 --> 00:24:23,616 They even had fold-up boats and things in case they found an inland sea. 417 00:24:23,660 --> 00:24:26,128 That was a pretty common thought process in those days. 418 00:24:26,180 --> 00:24:28,011 - There must be a sea in the middle? - Yeah. 419 00:24:28,060 --> 00:24:32,576 Because the rivers seemed to indicate that there would be something feeding the rivers. 420 00:24:32,620 --> 00:24:34,656 And as they went across the countryside, 421 00:24:34,700 --> 00:24:38,932 they had this quaint idea of spreading Englishness to the natives, you see? 422 00:24:38,980 --> 00:24:40,174 - Yeah. - And what they did, 423 00:24:40,220 --> 00:24:43,371 they gave away to the local Aboriginals, 424 00:24:44,060 --> 00:24:46,096 - Union Jack handkerchiefs. - Very useful. 425 00:24:50,300 --> 00:24:52,530 They were aiming to get from Melbourne 426 00:24:52,580 --> 00:24:55,777 all the way to the undiscovered north coast. 427 00:24:55,820 --> 00:24:58,937 They travelled with all the horses and the camels up to Cooper's Creek, 428 00:24:58,980 --> 00:25:00,971 where they set up a base camp. 429 00:25:01,020 --> 00:25:05,298 Then Burke and Wills carried on, leaving the others behind to wait for them. 430 00:25:05,340 --> 00:25:08,730 They did reach the coast, but it took a lot longer than they thought. 431 00:25:08,780 --> 00:25:12,216 And by the time they returned to the camp, the main party had left. 432 00:25:12,260 --> 00:25:16,731 Burke and Wills never found the food and water that the others had buried against their return, 433 00:25:16,780 --> 00:25:19,499 and having no idea how to survive in this environment, 434 00:25:19,540 --> 00:25:21,849 within a month, both had starved to death. 435 00:25:21,900 --> 00:25:25,176 But as Les was telling me, if they'd known what to look for in the bush, 436 00:25:25,220 --> 00:25:26,448 they could have survived. 437 00:25:26,500 --> 00:25:29,776 But there were, of course, along the way, different foods and things 438 00:25:29,820 --> 00:25:33,335 that they could have eaten if they'd taken note and been familiar with them. 439 00:25:33,380 --> 00:25:35,177 - Like what? - Well, these things... 440 00:25:35,220 --> 00:25:38,451 Here's a thing called the bloodwood apple. It grows on a eucalypt tree. 441 00:25:38,500 --> 00:25:41,298 - You can see the leaves of the eucalypt. - Yeah. Yeah. 442 00:25:41,340 --> 00:25:43,410 And we just snap that off. 443 00:25:44,460 --> 00:25:48,419 - OK. Now... - (Victoria laughs) Ha. 444 00:25:48,460 --> 00:25:52,055 - Watch your foot. - Yeah. I'd like to keep my leg, if possible. 445 00:25:53,500 --> 00:25:58,130 That there is a little grub. It turns into a moth eventually and finds his way out. 446 00:25:58,180 --> 00:26:00,250 Oh, I'm vegetarian. 447 00:26:00,300 --> 00:26:03,497 But if it's an insect that's eaten vegetables. 448 00:26:03,540 --> 00:26:07,658 - So it's made of a veg... Yeah. OK. - That's right. He's vegetarian, too. 449 00:26:08,180 --> 00:26:12,059 All right? And you can actually eat the surround inside there, as well. 450 00:26:12,100 --> 00:26:14,978 Yeah. I wouldn't be rushing to collect them. 451 00:26:15,780 --> 00:26:18,089 - They're quite bitter. - Yeah, well, that's... 452 00:26:18,140 --> 00:26:20,256 - You've got it on your nose. - That's a young one. 453 00:26:20,300 --> 00:26:22,018 - Is it? - Mm. 454 00:26:22,060 --> 00:26:24,335 - And this other thing... - Bit like balsawood. 455 00:26:24,380 --> 00:26:26,974 Yeah, it does a bit, doesn't it? Or a bit like coconut. 456 00:26:27,020 --> 00:26:29,136 It's not quite as nice as that. Mm. 457 00:26:29,180 --> 00:26:32,092 And this thing here grows off the vine. They call it the bush banana. 458 00:26:32,140 --> 00:26:35,655 But, erm, just try some of those seed pods there. 459 00:26:38,260 --> 00:26:41,172 - They're like cucumber or melon seeds. - Well, I don't... 460 00:26:41,220 --> 00:26:43,688 - No, they're like tiny peas. - They're like peas. 461 00:26:43,740 --> 00:26:46,129 - You want some more? - Do you know, actually, I don't. 462 00:26:46,180 --> 00:26:48,250 (Les laughs) 463 00:26:51,540 --> 00:26:53,815 The British had arrived here as jailers 464 00:26:53,860 --> 00:26:57,933 with a convict population that had to be controlled by hanging and flogging. 465 00:26:57,980 --> 00:27:01,814 Next it was the terrain that had to be tamed and brought under control, 466 00:27:01,860 --> 00:27:04,169 mapped and measured and divided. 467 00:27:04,220 --> 00:27:06,609 It was strange and harsh and inhospitable. 468 00:27:06,660 --> 00:27:08,491 It had to be made manageable. 469 00:27:08,540 --> 00:27:12,249 And it was the telegraph cable that would cross flood plains and deserts 470 00:27:12,300 --> 00:27:17,055 and lick this country into shape and bring it into line with the rest of the empire. 471 00:27:17,100 --> 00:27:22,379 Another expedition set out, led by telegraph superintendent Charles Todd from Greenwich, 472 00:27:22,420 --> 00:27:25,810 to find a straight, overland route for the cable to follow. 473 00:27:25,860 --> 00:27:30,138 A gap in the mountains was found and that became the site of a little telegraph station 474 00:27:30,180 --> 00:27:32,136 and one of the first white settlements. 475 00:27:32,180 --> 00:27:37,652 It was by some springs and they named it after Mr Todd's wife, Mrs Todd, Alice. 476 00:27:50,740 --> 00:27:52,935 It might have looked like and empty country 477 00:27:52,980 --> 00:27:57,258 to the surveyors and linemen trying to lay the telegraph cable but it wasn't. 478 00:27:57,300 --> 00:27:59,291 There were people here already. 479 00:27:59,340 --> 00:28:03,049 Not the poor savages, the "black fellas" of my school geography book, 480 00:28:03,100 --> 00:28:06,809 thinly scattered and on the verge of extinction, 481 00:28:06,860 --> 00:28:12,696 but tribe after tribe all over Australia, people with a rich culture, a stable society, 482 00:28:12,740 --> 00:28:16,415 who didn't need artificial constructs like fences or houses 483 00:28:16,460 --> 00:28:19,816 because they knew more than the whites ever would about their own land 484 00:28:19,860 --> 00:28:22,010 and how to live with its rhythms. 485 00:28:23,780 --> 00:28:26,499 My guide in Alice Springs was Arthur Archie. 486 00:28:26,540 --> 00:28:29,259 His own family suffered at the hands of the white settlers 487 00:28:29,300 --> 00:28:33,179 and he told me how the Aborigine lived before their lives were disrupted. 488 00:28:34,260 --> 00:28:38,253 (Arthur) Aboriginal people was resourcing what Mother Nature had to give. 489 00:28:38,300 --> 00:28:43,818 They had to know exactly about where the food was, where the water was, 490 00:28:43,860 --> 00:28:47,739 the food chain that was above...what was above ground, what was below ground. 491 00:28:48,420 --> 00:28:52,652 Then they had to know all about the climate. They had to know the seasons 492 00:28:52,700 --> 00:28:57,057 because if we don't look after the land and everything that comes from it, 493 00:28:57,100 --> 00:29:00,137 then we don't survive. 494 00:29:00,180 --> 00:29:03,058 Even though they can utilise the things of today, 495 00:29:03,100 --> 00:29:06,615 like the motor vehicle or the telephone, everything like that. 496 00:29:06,660 --> 00:29:09,811 But where the home and where the heart is is back in the country. 497 00:29:10,900 --> 00:29:13,733 There was nothing as conciliatory as the Waitangi treaty 498 00:29:13,780 --> 00:29:16,374 between the white Australian and the Aborigine. 499 00:29:16,420 --> 00:29:19,218 They called them "black fellas". They could be shot on sight 500 00:29:19,260 --> 00:29:21,569 if they were in groups of six or more. 501 00:29:21,620 --> 00:29:25,374 Some were even poisoned, offered rations laced with strychnine, 502 00:29:25,420 --> 00:29:28,651 described by an official as, "Something to keep them niggers quiet." 503 00:29:28,700 --> 00:29:32,056 Even within Arthur's lifetime, the native Australian could still be someone 504 00:29:32,100 --> 00:29:34,534 to be feared and destroyed. 505 00:29:34,580 --> 00:29:38,539 Arthur, what do you think it was that meant when white people arrived, 506 00:29:39,300 --> 00:29:44,249 the Aborigines did not find a way of overcoming them and repelling them? 507 00:29:44,300 --> 00:29:48,896 Well, the Aboriginal people, the only thing they had was spears and boomerangs. 508 00:29:48,940 --> 00:29:50,931 Yeah. So they didn't have guns or anything? 509 00:29:50,980 --> 00:29:52,732 They never had guns. 510 00:29:52,780 --> 00:29:55,817 So it was just total massacres took place. 511 00:29:55,860 --> 00:29:58,420 Not only with the men but also women and children. 512 00:29:58,460 --> 00:30:00,815 Anything that was running or moving was shot down. 513 00:30:00,860 --> 00:30:04,250 My grandfather, if it wasn't a certain lagoon, 514 00:30:04,300 --> 00:30:06,495 where 400 men got shot, 515 00:30:06,540 --> 00:30:09,577 and there was him and a couple of others who, if that lagoons wasn't full, 516 00:30:09,620 --> 00:30:12,771 when they jumped in and swam under water and got out of the way of the bullets, 517 00:30:12,820 --> 00:30:15,414 then I wouldn't be sitting here talking to you today. 518 00:30:21,300 --> 00:30:25,293 We'll never really know how many Aborigines were here or how many died. 519 00:30:25,900 --> 00:30:28,972 They think, in the first hundred or so years of British occupation, 520 00:30:29,020 --> 00:30:31,818 at least 20,000 may have been killed. 521 00:30:31,860 --> 00:30:36,058 It wasn't till 1967 that they were even included in the census 522 00:30:36,100 --> 00:30:39,376 and given full, legal status as Australian citizens. 523 00:30:45,140 --> 00:30:49,497 Australia Day is the celebration of Captain Cook landing at Botany Bay, 524 00:30:49,540 --> 00:30:52,816 but for some Aborigines, that will always be a day of mourning. 525 00:31:12,980 --> 00:31:16,495 This is Ballarat, Australia's biggest inland city. 526 00:31:16,540 --> 00:31:20,453 It has wide streets, big buildings, and although the architecture 527 00:31:20,500 --> 00:31:23,412 would have looked familiar to anyone arriving from the old country, 528 00:31:23,460 --> 00:31:25,257 there was a new spirit here. 529 00:31:25,300 --> 00:31:28,053 The buildings were posh but it didn't matter if you weren't. 530 00:31:28,100 --> 00:31:32,218 A public school education or a title were no use to you here. 531 00:31:32,260 --> 00:31:36,856 What counted was industry, determination, a willingness to take a punt. 532 00:31:37,500 --> 00:31:40,412 A convict who'd served his time had as much chance as anybody 533 00:31:40,460 --> 00:31:42,451 of making his way in the world. 534 00:31:42,500 --> 00:31:45,173 Especially here because here, in Victoria, 535 00:31:45,220 --> 00:31:49,372 in Ballarat in 1851, someone found gold 536 00:31:49,420 --> 00:31:52,571 and, suddenly, not just ex-cons but labourers 537 00:31:52,620 --> 00:31:56,090 and farm hands were chucking in their jobs and heading this way. 538 00:31:56,140 --> 00:31:58,779 Gold fever was catching and the word was out. 539 00:31:58,820 --> 00:32:01,653 If you could get here and had the strength to hold a pickaxe, 540 00:32:01,700 --> 00:32:04,214 you could be one of the lucky ones who made their fortune 541 00:32:04,260 --> 00:32:06,216 and set themselves up for life. 542 00:32:06,260 --> 00:32:09,172 People came vast distances, burning their bridges, 543 00:32:09,220 --> 00:32:15,136 and they couldn't be sure till they got here that the whole gold story was actually true. 544 00:32:18,220 --> 00:32:22,008 There's a brilliant book about the Ballarat gold fields by Robyn Annear. 545 00:32:22,060 --> 00:32:23,778 It's part of her family history. 546 00:32:23,820 --> 00:32:27,574 Her pregnant great-great grandmother made that very journey. 547 00:32:27,620 --> 00:32:32,455 So imagine people travelling across the world on this incredibly hazardous voyage 548 00:32:32,500 --> 00:32:35,378 on the strength of what may have turned out to be a rumour. 549 00:32:35,420 --> 00:32:38,298 So they were incredibly relieved when they turned up and, er... 550 00:32:38,340 --> 00:32:40,729 - They were digging. - People told them, "It's true," 551 00:32:40,780 --> 00:32:43,738 and even showed them gold dust from their pockets. 552 00:32:43,780 --> 00:32:48,979 And I imagine a huge sea of tents, like a huge rock festival. 553 00:32:49,020 --> 00:32:52,376 - There was certainly lots of mud, so... - And really inflated prices? 554 00:32:52,420 --> 00:32:56,095 Yeah. Not quite so much nudity as you'd see at a rock festival. 555 00:32:56,140 --> 00:32:58,734 - No but we had huge beards, didn't we? - Lots of beards, yeah. 556 00:32:58,780 --> 00:33:01,055 - So you tipped up, paid for your permit... - Yep. 557 00:33:01,100 --> 00:33:05,969 - ..you marked out your spot and got going. - Yes, your claim. You got going. 558 00:33:06,020 --> 00:33:08,329 They heard the gold fields before they saw them. 559 00:33:08,380 --> 00:33:10,974 (Victoria) What could you hear? (Robyn) The sounds of picks 560 00:33:11,020 --> 00:33:15,775 but also the sounds of people washing the gold-carrying dirt on the creek banks. 561 00:33:15,820 --> 00:33:19,574 - So thousands of people. - What did you do, rinse it out? 562 00:33:19,620 --> 00:33:21,975 You rinsed it out. You swivelled it back and forth. 563 00:33:22,020 --> 00:33:25,137 - And then you saw a little glint? - You start off with a trough full of gravel 564 00:33:25,180 --> 00:33:27,410 and you end up, in the space of a few minutes, 565 00:33:27,460 --> 00:33:32,329 with just a tiny bit of sand and, if you're lucky, a glint of gold. 566 00:33:32,380 --> 00:33:34,336 - A lot made fortunes. - Did they? 567 00:33:34,380 --> 00:33:39,613 Some made enough to, you know, buy a farm, basically, and that was their aim. 568 00:33:39,660 --> 00:33:42,299 So it really set people up for life 569 00:33:42,340 --> 00:33:46,219 and not just a life like they'd had before but a whole new life. 570 00:34:00,100 --> 00:34:02,773 This is the capital of Victoria, Melbourne. 571 00:34:02,820 --> 00:34:05,175 It was built on the profits of the gold rush. 572 00:34:05,220 --> 00:34:07,415 Built all of a piece on a grid system. 573 00:34:08,100 --> 00:34:10,170 No squares, no crescents. 574 00:34:10,860 --> 00:34:13,613 The buildings and the details were classical 575 00:34:13,660 --> 00:34:18,734 but there was no old English wonkiness, no little alleys or funny angles. 576 00:34:18,780 --> 00:34:23,649 It was recognisably British but bigger, better, breezier. 577 00:34:30,300 --> 00:34:33,656 0ne of the oldest buildings in Melbourne is the jail. 578 00:34:35,020 --> 00:34:37,932 It's a museum now and, in each cell, 579 00:34:37,980 --> 00:34:41,609 they have the death mask of an inmate, of a hanged prisoner. 580 00:34:42,860 --> 00:34:46,899 They'd cut them down, shave their heads and make the mask. 581 00:34:48,180 --> 00:34:51,968 And using phrenology, which is reading the bumps on the skull, 582 00:34:52,020 --> 00:34:55,535 they would try and determine the character of the hanged man. 583 00:34:56,740 --> 00:35:00,210 They might even come to the conclusion that he'd had criminal tendencies. 584 00:35:10,820 --> 00:35:14,449 Now that is the most famous inmate of the old jail, 585 00:35:14,500 --> 00:35:17,333 hanged here on the 11th November 1880. 586 00:35:17,380 --> 00:35:21,009 Police murderer, bushranger, political rabble-rouser. 587 00:35:21,060 --> 00:35:24,814 That is Ned Kelly, aged 25. 588 00:35:26,300 --> 00:35:29,576 He was an Irish Catholic and the son of a convict, 589 00:35:29,620 --> 00:35:32,771 so that was two strikes against him with the authorities. 590 00:35:32,820 --> 00:35:35,937 He ambushed and shot dead three policemen. 591 00:35:35,980 --> 00:35:39,609 He was declared an outlaw which meant anybody could shoot him on sight. 592 00:35:39,660 --> 00:35:44,256 But he had a lot of supporters who believed the Irish were victimised by the police 593 00:35:44,300 --> 00:35:47,053 and he dodged the law and was in hiding for two years. 594 00:35:49,060 --> 00:35:51,290 He was captured, in the end, after a shoot-out, 595 00:35:51,340 --> 00:35:54,138 in this armour he'd made from bits of iron plough. 596 00:35:55,020 --> 00:35:57,488 The bullets bounced of his head and chest 597 00:35:57,540 --> 00:36:00,418 but the police shot his legs out from under him... 598 00:36:02,580 --> 00:36:06,459 and he was taken to Melbourne where he was sentenced to death by hanging. 599 00:36:07,580 --> 00:36:09,935 And that's where they hanged him. 600 00:36:09,980 --> 00:36:13,450 They love him here, Ned Kelly. There's books about him and paintings. 601 00:36:13,500 --> 00:36:16,173 (Woman) So many people have been asking me about this story. 602 00:36:16,220 --> 00:36:18,097 (Victoria) Even his mother gets a look in. 603 00:36:18,140 --> 00:36:20,131 I'm Mrs Kelly, all right. 604 00:36:20,180 --> 00:36:23,490 I'll tell you the real story of what happened to me, 605 00:36:24,340 --> 00:36:27,696 my boys and our family... 606 00:36:27,740 --> 00:36:32,052 (Victoria) Not really his mother, obviously, because his mother would be about 138. 607 00:36:32,100 --> 00:36:34,660 Government, police, 608 00:36:34,700 --> 00:36:36,691 landowners. 609 00:36:37,220 --> 00:36:39,211 Mostly all English here, 610 00:36:39,260 --> 00:36:41,694 just the same as back home in Ireland. 611 00:36:41,740 --> 00:36:43,935 All trying to keep us in our place. 612 00:36:46,460 --> 00:36:49,020 It's the armour that people remember, I think. 613 00:36:49,060 --> 00:36:52,097 I doubt if most people could recognise Ned Kelly's face. 614 00:36:52,140 --> 00:36:55,928 And there must be loads of other bushrangers and rebels who are forgotten. 615 00:36:55,980 --> 00:36:58,813 But there's sympathy for Ned still and I think it is the armour. 616 00:36:58,860 --> 00:37:01,693 I think that's what's given him his iconic status. 617 00:37:01,740 --> 00:37:04,937 I know he was a rebel and I'm sure he had a genuine grievance 618 00:37:04,980 --> 00:37:07,540 but this is the image that's on all the souvenirs. 619 00:37:07,580 --> 00:37:12,370 I know because I went in the gift shop and bought the soap and the matches. 620 00:37:12,420 --> 00:37:16,254 I'm standing the other side of the prison laundry wall when they dropped my boy. 621 00:37:18,140 --> 00:37:22,497 His final words were, "I suppose it had to come to this. 622 00:37:24,580 --> 00:37:26,252 "Such is life." 623 00:37:37,180 --> 00:37:41,458 I think Australians projected onto Ned Kelly the qualities they wished for themselves. 624 00:37:41,500 --> 00:37:45,539 Rebelliousness, independence, a refusal to bow to authority. 625 00:37:45,580 --> 00:37:49,175 It was a new country and that required a new hero. 626 00:38:01,660 --> 00:38:05,175 We probably all know someone who emigrated to Australia with their family 627 00:38:05,220 --> 00:38:08,735 in the '50s and '60s for the work and the opportunities. 628 00:38:10,620 --> 00:38:14,295 What you may never have heard about are the British orphans who came here, 629 00:38:14,340 --> 00:38:19,460 sourced from care homes and orphanages, sailing away from damp, old England 630 00:38:19,500 --> 00:38:23,891 to an exciting life in a sunny country some of them had never even heard of. 631 00:38:24,700 --> 00:38:27,533 0ne of those orphans was Harold Hague, and Margaret Humphreys 632 00:38:27,580 --> 00:38:30,572 of the Child Migrant Trust knows of lots of children like Harold, 633 00:38:30,620 --> 00:38:34,056 whose school day was interrupted by an exciting event. 634 00:38:34,660 --> 00:38:39,939 So you were often called into the hall where there'd be 50 or 60 children 635 00:38:39,980 --> 00:38:42,813 and someone would come along and say, "Now put your hand up 636 00:38:42,860 --> 00:38:46,739 "those that would like to go to Australia because in Australia, the weather's hot, 637 00:38:46,780 --> 00:38:49,931 "you get sweets, you go to school on horses." 638 00:38:49,980 --> 00:38:53,734 And this wonderful picture was given to the children 639 00:38:53,780 --> 00:38:56,578 around, "Wouldn't life be great there?" 640 00:38:56,620 --> 00:38:58,929 And some put their hands up. 641 00:38:59,540 --> 00:39:04,694 All I can remember is this man in a suit came to see me one day 642 00:39:04,740 --> 00:39:07,732 and said, erm, "Would you like to go to Australia? 643 00:39:08,740 --> 00:39:12,972 "It's a terrific place. The sun shines all day, every day." 644 00:39:13,020 --> 00:39:14,817 And so I said yes. 645 00:39:14,860 --> 00:39:18,057 I think there were two things, really. 646 00:39:18,100 --> 00:39:21,456 One is that the kids mainly thought Australia was just round the corner 647 00:39:21,500 --> 00:39:24,651 and they could go for a weekend and get back. 648 00:39:24,700 --> 00:39:27,533 So that was a huge shock, when they were on the boat for six weeks. 649 00:39:27,580 --> 00:39:31,050 And some kids really just thought they were going to be able to swim back home. 650 00:39:34,140 --> 00:39:37,337 It was never explained to the children that there was no contingency 651 00:39:37,380 --> 00:39:39,530 for them to come back if they didn't like it, 652 00:39:39,580 --> 00:39:43,175 that there were no loving families with horses waiting to adopt them. 653 00:39:43,220 --> 00:39:46,735 They were headed for orphanages and they were only being sent out at all 654 00:39:46,780 --> 00:39:48,816 because it saved the British government money 655 00:39:48,860 --> 00:39:53,092 and it was an easy way of increasing the white Australian population. 656 00:39:54,900 --> 00:39:59,257 But for some children like Harold, the deception went much further than that. 657 00:39:59,300 --> 00:40:02,212 He then said, "Well, you know you're an orphan. 658 00:40:02,260 --> 00:40:06,094 "Your parents are dead and you've got no family here. 659 00:40:06,140 --> 00:40:09,098 "There's nothing in England for you. You might as well go." 660 00:40:09,140 --> 00:40:13,452 - And were your parents dead? - No. No. I didn't know that then. 661 00:40:14,420 --> 00:40:16,888 My parents broke up during the war 662 00:40:16,940 --> 00:40:23,175 and my mother had no option but to find somewhere to put me in care. 663 00:40:23,220 --> 00:40:26,974 So when they told you, you had no family here, you just believed them. 664 00:40:27,020 --> 00:40:29,250 - You had no reason not to. - I had no reason not to. 665 00:40:29,300 --> 00:40:30,972 - Mm. - No. 666 00:40:32,180 --> 00:40:36,332 When Harold sailed to Australia, he had a living sister he knew nothing about 667 00:40:36,380 --> 00:40:38,371 and two living parents. 668 00:40:38,900 --> 00:40:41,972 When investigating his story, Margaret uncovered details 669 00:40:42,020 --> 00:40:45,296 of not just children like Harold being told they were orphans 670 00:40:45,340 --> 00:40:48,889 but parents of children in care being told their child had died 671 00:40:48,940 --> 00:40:51,249 when, in fact, the child's name had been changed 672 00:40:51,300 --> 00:40:54,019 and the child put on a boat to Melbourne. 673 00:40:54,060 --> 00:40:56,449 By the time Harold had found out about his family 674 00:40:56,500 --> 00:41:00,288 and Margaret had tracked down the whereabouts of his mother, it was too late. 675 00:41:00,340 --> 00:41:01,739 She was dead. 676 00:41:01,780 --> 00:41:05,853 He lived all those years without her and he has no photograph of her. 677 00:41:06,820 --> 00:41:10,017 These bravely smiling, waving, trusting children 678 00:41:10,060 --> 00:41:13,848 were doubled-crossed by two governments working in tandem for their own ends, 679 00:41:13,900 --> 00:41:15,891 conned and lied to. 680 00:41:15,940 --> 00:41:21,139 Sailing so hopefully to a life of loneliness and neglect, often, abuse sometimes. 681 00:41:21,180 --> 00:41:24,456 Marching into a country where it would take more than a pair of boxing gloves 682 00:41:24,500 --> 00:41:26,331 to fight for their rights. 683 00:41:26,380 --> 00:41:30,817 Some of them even now don't know their own real names or own a passport 684 00:41:30,860 --> 00:41:34,899 and however hard Margaret works to try and reunite them with their families, 685 00:41:34,940 --> 00:41:38,455 for many of the child migrants, it is going to be too late. 686 00:41:51,700 --> 00:41:54,737 Queen Victoria was doing jolly well with her world domination. 687 00:41:54,780 --> 00:41:58,295 She had her tea coming in from India, her convicts going out to Australia. 688 00:41:58,340 --> 00:42:02,333 It was world bingo. She only needed one more continent to shout, "Empire" 689 00:42:04,420 --> 00:42:07,093 What continent were we waiting for? Africa. 690 00:42:07,820 --> 00:42:11,096 They'd left it a bit late. It was nearly 1860 691 00:42:11,140 --> 00:42:14,291 and they still hadn't really got anywhere further than the edges. 692 00:42:14,340 --> 00:42:16,774 This is the Zambezi river in Zambia. 693 00:42:16,820 --> 00:42:21,257 It runs from central Africa through six countries on its way to the Indian 0cean, 694 00:42:21,300 --> 00:42:26,579 and in 1858, fuelled by that Victorian fervour to explore and catalogue, 695 00:42:26,620 --> 00:42:30,977 the British government funded an expedition to penetrate into southeastern Africa 696 00:42:31,020 --> 00:42:33,011 and open up the Zambezi. 697 00:42:33,060 --> 00:42:36,097 Africa held an intense fascination for people at home. 698 00:42:36,140 --> 00:42:38,131 They called it the dark continent 699 00:42:38,180 --> 00:42:41,536 and there was huge curiosity about what was in the interior. 700 00:42:43,500 --> 00:42:47,971 I don't know why I'm bothering to take these pictures. I'm hopeless at taking pictures. 701 00:42:48,020 --> 00:42:51,057 I'll get these home and there'll just be a setting sun out of focus 702 00:42:51,100 --> 00:42:53,330 and some ripples where there's about to be a hippo 703 00:42:53,380 --> 00:42:56,372 or some bubbles where there's just been one. 704 00:42:57,540 --> 00:43:01,169 The only way I could get a good picture of a hippo would be to invite it onto this boat, 705 00:43:01,220 --> 00:43:03,415 sit it down and buy it a lager. 706 00:43:03,460 --> 00:43:05,496 Thank God for postcards. 707 00:43:07,500 --> 00:43:12,051 The man who led the Zambezi expedition was not only an explorer and scientist, 708 00:43:12,100 --> 00:43:15,058 but a missionary who believed his calling was to bring Christianity 709 00:43:15,100 --> 00:43:18,012 to the Africans he would meet on his travels. 710 00:43:18,060 --> 00:43:20,255 He had spent almost 30 years in Africa. 711 00:43:20,300 --> 00:43:25,215 He was the first European to cross the entire African continent from west to east. 712 00:43:25,260 --> 00:43:27,330 He was David Livingstone. 713 00:43:27,380 --> 00:43:30,213 In 1842 he began a four-year expedition 714 00:43:30,260 --> 00:43:33,377 to find a route from the upper Zambezi to the coast. 715 00:43:33,420 --> 00:43:37,129 His overriding purpose was to establish a navigable trade route. 716 00:43:37,180 --> 00:43:41,571 This was part of his ongoing campaign to end the slave trade in Africa. 717 00:43:41,620 --> 00:43:44,657 He'd been appalled to find that, although it was abolished in Britain, 718 00:43:44,700 --> 00:43:46,895 it was still flourishing in Africa. 719 00:43:47,660 --> 00:43:50,128 If he could open up this river as a trade route 720 00:43:50,180 --> 00:43:53,968 then that would, perhaps, offer alternative ways of making a living. 721 00:43:54,020 --> 00:43:56,534 He called the Zambezi God's Highway 722 00:43:56,580 --> 00:44:01,449 and, God willing, he would follow this mighty river all the way to the Indian 0cean. 723 00:44:03,060 --> 00:44:04,413 Well, God was willing 724 00:44:04,460 --> 00:44:06,928 because it does go all the way to the sea. 725 00:44:06,980 --> 00:44:12,657 The only problem is that just about here there's a bit of a dro-o-o-p 726 00:44:23,900 --> 00:44:29,532 But, you know, once you've navigated that 400-foot drop, and you're out of hospital, 727 00:44:29,580 --> 00:44:32,731 it's fairly plain sailing all the way to the coast, 728 00:44:32,780 --> 00:44:34,611 if you like white-water rafting. 729 00:44:34,660 --> 00:44:37,857 If only Livingstone had realised adventure sports were the future, 730 00:44:37,900 --> 00:44:40,539 he could have told the traders, "Get rid of the slaves. 731 00:44:40,580 --> 00:44:43,572 "Get some rubber boats and a few life jackets." 732 00:44:47,740 --> 00:44:51,972 David Livingstone was the first white man to set eyes on this spectacular waterfall 733 00:44:52,020 --> 00:44:54,659 and in what must have been by now a kneejerk reaction, 734 00:44:54,700 --> 00:44:57,339 he named the falls after Queen Victoria. 735 00:44:57,380 --> 00:45:01,339 The people who lived here had cheekily given them their own name some time before. 736 00:45:01,380 --> 00:45:04,497 Mosi-oa-Tunya, "the smoke that thunders." 737 00:45:04,540 --> 00:45:07,498 And what they thought of a Scottish missionary renaming them 738 00:45:07,540 --> 00:45:11,692 after a Queen they'd never heard of who'd never see them, we don't know. 739 00:45:17,540 --> 00:45:19,895 (Elephant trumpets) 740 00:45:22,180 --> 00:45:25,855 This whole area by the side of the Zambezi is a game reserve now. 741 00:45:25,900 --> 00:45:28,778 Unlike poor old Dr Livingstone, who was here for years, 742 00:45:28,820 --> 00:45:31,857 you can do a Victoria Falls safari package in two days, 743 00:45:31,900 --> 00:45:33,618 and see the white rhinos. 744 00:45:33,660 --> 00:45:35,935 That's them. They're called Victoria and Albert. 745 00:45:35,980 --> 00:45:37,732 I've just renamed them. 746 00:45:37,780 --> 00:45:39,657 They may already have names but I don't care. 747 00:45:39,700 --> 00:45:42,055 I'm British, they're rhinos, they can't stop me. 748 00:45:45,780 --> 00:45:48,419 Livingstone led the way but it was a difficult climate 749 00:45:48,460 --> 00:45:50,530 for the British who wanted to settle. 750 00:45:50,580 --> 00:45:55,210 The first Europeans here built a township on the banks of the Zambezi, near the falls, 751 00:45:55,260 --> 00:45:58,252 but it was low-lying and marshy and malarial. 752 00:45:58,300 --> 00:46:02,532 So they moved to higher ground, to Constitution Hill, renamed - 753 00:46:02,580 --> 00:46:06,892 can nobody ever stick with the same name anywhere? - renamed Livingstone. 754 00:46:09,700 --> 00:46:12,134 It became the capital of Northern Rhodesia 755 00:46:12,180 --> 00:46:14,455 but when the capital was moved to Lusaka in 1935, 756 00:46:14,500 --> 00:46:16,889 it faded a bit and not much went on. 757 00:46:16,940 --> 00:46:18,692 But now it's really busy. 758 00:46:18,740 --> 00:46:22,130 Because of the situation in Zimbabwe, it's picking up a lot of the falls tourism 759 00:46:22,180 --> 00:46:24,091 that used to go to that side of the river. 760 00:46:24,140 --> 00:46:27,098 And because of adventure sports and the link with Livingstone, 761 00:46:27,140 --> 00:46:30,098 it appeals to quite a wide range of visitors. 762 00:46:34,180 --> 00:46:37,809 I know these churches might look a bit out of place, not very African, 763 00:46:37,860 --> 00:46:41,136 but those first English missionaries, perhaps that was all they could draw, 764 00:46:41,180 --> 00:46:43,774 square with a pointy roof. "Here you are, build that." 765 00:46:45,180 --> 00:46:47,694 Wait till he's gone then paint it. 766 00:46:47,740 --> 00:46:50,937 This was my last chance to do some shopping. I've been all over the world 767 00:46:50,980 --> 00:46:54,450 and all I've bought is two fridge magnets and some Ned Kelly matches. 768 00:47:02,940 --> 00:47:04,419 (Man) This is tobacco... 769 00:47:04,460 --> 00:47:06,655 Livingstone has this huge market 770 00:47:06,700 --> 00:47:10,056 and it's down here where most of the Africans used to live in colonial times. 771 00:47:10,100 --> 00:47:13,172 The white people were up on the hill, away from the heat and the flies. 772 00:47:13,220 --> 00:47:17,452 But Lukson, who's our guide, says it's not like that now. He lives on top of the hill. 773 00:47:17,500 --> 00:47:20,219 It's got all the things you would see in Skipton or Leicester - 774 00:47:20,260 --> 00:47:23,536 fuzzy nylon slippers and aprons and people shouting abuse 775 00:47:23,580 --> 00:47:25,571 because we were filming them without asking, 776 00:47:25,620 --> 00:47:28,578 but it's got a lot of stalls with foods I wouldn't be able to put a name to 777 00:47:28,620 --> 00:47:31,339 and none of the packaging we're cursed with in the UK. 778 00:47:32,380 --> 00:47:34,496 What's that, Lukson? 779 00:47:34,540 --> 00:47:39,568 This is, er, maize, pounded maize. They've just removed, er, the chaff. 780 00:47:39,620 --> 00:47:42,692 I don't think the Atkins diet has caught on here in a big way. 781 00:47:42,740 --> 00:47:45,413 Any carb under threat would be very safe here. 782 00:47:45,460 --> 00:47:48,691 Stall after stall is maize, millet, tapioca. 783 00:47:49,220 --> 00:47:51,575 I wonder if they know the proper way to serve tapioca? 784 00:47:51,620 --> 00:47:54,976 Add a teaspoon of rosehip syrup and stir vigorously till pink. 785 00:47:58,580 --> 00:48:00,775 Lukson took me to a traditional herbalist. 786 00:48:00,820 --> 00:48:03,459 It wasn't the easiest place to film, as you'll see. 787 00:48:03,500 --> 00:48:06,298 And also, we got into some very tricky areas. 788 00:48:06,940 --> 00:48:09,329 Can I just ask you what some of these things are for? 789 00:48:09,380 --> 00:48:12,338 - No problem. You can ask. - Erm, the tortoise shell. 790 00:48:12,380 --> 00:48:16,896 We use this for people who come with blood from nose. Blood. 791 00:48:16,940 --> 00:48:19,010 (Lukson) Bleeding. (Victoria) Oh, bleeding. 792 00:48:19,060 --> 00:48:21,176 - How do you give it to them? - Put it on the fire... 793 00:48:21,220 --> 00:48:24,371 - (Lukson) Inhale the smoke. - The smoke of a burning tortoise shell. 794 00:48:24,420 --> 00:48:28,333 - And is this snake skin? - (Stallholder) Yes, is a snake. Python. 795 00:48:28,380 --> 00:48:31,531 - (Victoria) What's that for? - We take this 796 00:48:31,580 --> 00:48:33,855 - if you have a problem in your ear. - Yeah. 797 00:48:33,900 --> 00:48:37,370 We usually put that to your ear, then it will be OK. 798 00:48:37,420 --> 00:48:40,856 Do people come with spiritual problems and depression? 799 00:48:40,900 --> 00:48:43,858 - Do they come with everything? - Er, of course. 800 00:48:43,900 --> 00:48:48,178 (Victoria laughs) So what is the most common problem that people come with? 801 00:48:48,220 --> 00:48:50,495 - Problem of "garonde". - On the anus? 802 00:48:50,540 --> 00:48:52,974 - Aha. - Ah, problem of the anus. 803 00:48:53,020 --> 00:48:54,738 (Lukson) OK. (Victoria) Haemorrhoids? 804 00:48:54,780 --> 00:48:56,691 - (Stallholder) Yes. - That's what you mean? 805 00:48:56,740 --> 00:49:01,973 Yes. There is very, very few problems which I fail... 806 00:49:02,020 --> 00:49:04,614 (Victoria) You can't deal with? (Lukson) Just name one. 807 00:49:04,660 --> 00:49:08,255 - Like HIV and AIDS. - (Victoria) HIV. 808 00:49:08,300 --> 00:49:11,019 - (Lukson) OK, you can't cure that? - I don't manage. 809 00:49:11,060 --> 00:49:13,779 - Er, what are the feathers for? - (Stallholder) Er, this... 810 00:49:13,820 --> 00:49:17,210 (Lukson) This is for cleaning. (Victoria) That's your duster. 811 00:49:17,260 --> 00:49:20,332 It's not a remedy. What are these things in here? 812 00:49:20,380 --> 00:49:24,373 (Stallholder) This is special for women. (Victoria) 0h-oh. 813 00:49:24,420 --> 00:49:29,619 If a lady have got a problem to her vagina. 814 00:49:29,660 --> 00:49:32,220 - 0oh, dear. - If she's very big. 815 00:49:32,260 --> 00:49:35,809 - 0h, please. - She can get this and put it... 816 00:49:35,860 --> 00:49:39,170 - I'm not listening. - Then the body will be squeezed. 817 00:49:39,220 --> 00:49:41,211 Yeah. Lovely. So, please, can we go now? 818 00:49:46,100 --> 00:49:49,934 Is everything here grown locally or are things brought in? 819 00:49:49,980 --> 00:49:53,177 Lots of the things are grown local and some of them are from the bush. 820 00:49:53,220 --> 00:49:55,893 - What's that? It's like bits of wood. - This is a delicious... 821 00:49:55,940 --> 00:49:58,215 - Yes. It's like beetroot - Beetroot. Is it? 822 00:49:58,260 --> 00:50:02,651 Yeah but it's from the bush, it's not cultivated. It's a very good vegetable. 823 00:50:02,700 --> 00:50:06,090 - It's like Viagra also. (Laughs) - It's like Viagra? Is it? 824 00:50:06,140 --> 00:50:09,052 (Victoria) Is that why it's so popular? (Lukson) Yeah. Maybe. 825 00:50:09,100 --> 00:50:11,455 - You want us to get some? - It'd be wasted on me, darling. 826 00:50:11,500 --> 00:50:13,491 (Both laugh) 827 00:50:14,420 --> 00:50:17,014 - I might take some home with me, though. - OK. 828 00:50:18,420 --> 00:50:20,729 Thank you. Thanks very much. 829 00:50:20,780 --> 00:50:22,577 The women carry the shopping. 830 00:50:43,340 --> 00:50:45,217 (Cock crows) 831 00:50:47,140 --> 00:50:51,053 For tourists who want more than white-water rafting and a big bag of Viagra, 832 00:50:51,100 --> 00:50:53,660 you can follow in the footsteps of David Livingstone 833 00:50:53,700 --> 00:50:58,820 and visit Toka Leya village where he met with the ruler of the falls, Chief Mukuni. 834 00:50:58,860 --> 00:51:02,011 As a non-believer, Livingstone could not be welcomed into the compound 835 00:51:02,060 --> 00:51:05,769 and had to sit with the chief outside under a mango tree. 836 00:51:05,820 --> 00:51:09,893 But it was two men from this tribe that went with Livingstone on his last expedition 837 00:51:09,940 --> 00:51:13,728 and, when he died in the jungle, carried his body all the way to the coast. 838 00:51:14,740 --> 00:51:18,528 There are descendants of those men still living in this village now 839 00:51:18,580 --> 00:51:22,016 and Bedyango, the High Priestess of the Toka Leya, who I met, 840 00:51:22,060 --> 00:51:26,895 is directly descended from the Chief Mukuni who had that meeting with Livingstone. 841 00:51:26,940 --> 00:51:29,056 (Drumbeats, singing and hollering) 842 00:51:31,700 --> 00:51:35,249 We walked to the mango tree where Livingstone and Bedyango's ancestor 843 00:51:35,300 --> 00:51:38,417 had sat and talked more than 150 years ago. 844 00:51:39,580 --> 00:51:44,051 - (Victoria) Did he sit under this tree? - Yes. He was received by the Chief Mukuni. 845 00:51:44,100 --> 00:51:46,170 Mipotola thirteen. 846 00:51:46,220 --> 00:51:48,097 - Number 13. Yes. - 13. 847 00:51:48,140 --> 00:51:50,290 And what's your father? Number 19? 848 00:51:50,340 --> 00:51:52,808 - Number 18. - 18. 849 00:51:52,860 --> 00:51:59,618 Because of Livingstone, do you think people here feel a bond with Great Britain? 850 00:51:59,660 --> 00:52:04,780 People here, they are happy because you follow the footprints of David Livingstone, 851 00:52:04,820 --> 00:52:07,971 - where he stepped. - Do they feel fond of the British? 852 00:52:08,020 --> 00:52:11,490 - No, no. - Fair enough. Just thought I should ask. 853 00:52:15,540 --> 00:52:17,258 This village is a tourist attraction. 854 00:52:17,300 --> 00:52:19,939 It's on all the websites. You can come here as part of a package. 855 00:52:19,980 --> 00:52:23,052 And the present Chief Mukuni is trying to strike that difficult balance 856 00:52:23,100 --> 00:52:27,457 between preserving their way of life and displaying it for the money it brings in. 857 00:52:27,500 --> 00:52:29,968 And they do now depend on tourism to survive. 858 00:52:30,020 --> 00:52:32,614 But it is a real village. It's not put on for tourists. 859 00:52:32,660 --> 00:52:35,493 They don't all go home on a bus at six o'clock. 860 00:52:35,540 --> 00:52:37,610 Bedyango is a genuine priestess. 861 00:52:37,660 --> 00:52:41,414 She performs rituals, she officiates for births and marriages. 862 00:52:41,460 --> 00:52:43,690 This isn't a Ned Kelly's mother situation. 863 00:52:43,740 --> 00:52:45,856 So you are encouraged to wander around 864 00:52:45,900 --> 00:52:48,972 but some bits are obviously more aimed at tourists than others 865 00:52:49,020 --> 00:52:52,330 and it's hard to know which are the mud huts you are allowed to peer into 866 00:52:52,380 --> 00:52:55,372 and which are just the mud huts people are living in. 867 00:52:55,420 --> 00:52:59,618 I might just say to Bedyango, "A few signposts wouldn't come amiss." 868 00:53:02,180 --> 00:53:04,171 (Child laughing) 869 00:53:28,100 --> 00:53:31,615 This train is only for tourists now. It's just for sightseeing. 870 00:53:31,660 --> 00:53:33,855 But it's a reminder of a man whose dream it was 871 00:53:33,900 --> 00:53:37,131 that the whole world should come under British rule. 872 00:53:37,180 --> 00:53:40,570 British, in this case, most definitely meaning white. 873 00:53:41,300 --> 00:53:45,054 The man was the fanatical empire builder, Cecil Rhodes. 874 00:53:45,100 --> 00:53:47,170 The man after who Rhodesia was named. 875 00:53:47,220 --> 00:53:51,099 Could have been worse. Could have been Northern and Southern Cecilia. 876 00:53:52,060 --> 00:53:56,053 And his dream was to build a railway that would run from Cape Town in South Africa 877 00:53:56,100 --> 00:53:57,931 to Egypt in the north, 878 00:53:57,980 --> 00:54:01,859 a lovely pink line linking all the British dominions. 879 00:54:01,900 --> 00:54:05,609 In his lifetime, the line only got as far as just south of the falls 880 00:54:05,660 --> 00:54:09,733 and even now there's a big section missing between Sudan and Uganda. 881 00:54:09,780 --> 00:54:12,248 So Rhodes was never able to see it used as he wished, 882 00:54:12,300 --> 00:54:15,610 as a method of getting white chaps in a hurry to where they were needed, 883 00:54:15,660 --> 00:54:17,571 to keep the natives in check. 884 00:54:18,260 --> 00:54:20,410 But this bridge was his idea. 885 00:54:23,180 --> 00:54:27,412 It was his dream to span the Zambezi at the falls with a railway bridge. 886 00:54:27,460 --> 00:54:31,851 It would have been easier to span the river a few miles upstream, where it's narrower, 887 00:54:31,900 --> 00:54:35,575 but Rhodes wanted the spray of the falls to hit the carriages, 888 00:54:35,620 --> 00:54:39,499 Rhodes not being the one who would have to clean the windows. 889 00:54:40,420 --> 00:54:44,333 So although he does seem to have been almost criminally and racially bonkers, 890 00:54:44,380 --> 00:54:46,575 we have to thank him for this. 891 00:54:47,500 --> 00:54:51,652 It was meant as a huge, imperial two fingers but let's take it for what it is, 892 00:54:51,700 --> 00:54:53,577 a wonderful piece of engineering, 893 00:54:53,620 --> 00:54:56,259 designed by the same man who built Sydney Harbour Bridge, 894 00:54:56,300 --> 00:54:59,610 to get you from one side of the Zambezi to the other. 895 00:55:12,780 --> 00:55:14,054 (Low rumbling) 896 00:55:14,100 --> 00:55:17,615 And here I am, making my way to my last destination, 897 00:55:17,660 --> 00:55:19,651 a place I've always wanted to see. 898 00:55:19,700 --> 00:55:22,658 I drove very near it on the Zimbabwe side a few years ago 899 00:55:22,700 --> 00:55:25,055 but we were filming and we didn't have time. 900 00:55:25,100 --> 00:55:29,935 This has been an extraordinary trip to make, a mad whistle-stop tour around the empire. 901 00:55:29,980 --> 00:55:33,052 I can't think of a better place to end it than here. 902 00:55:33,980 --> 00:55:38,178 And it's wonderful. You can see why Livingstone was so knocked out by it. 903 00:55:38,220 --> 00:55:41,735 All that fantastic spray and mist is over on the Zimbabwe side 904 00:55:41,780 --> 00:55:43,816 because, Sod's law, we're here in September 905 00:55:43,860 --> 00:55:47,773 when it dries up a bit on our side, so it's more of a single bath tap. 906 00:55:47,820 --> 00:55:51,176 But what the heck? It's still an incredible view. 907 00:55:53,180 --> 00:55:57,219 By the time of Queen Victoria's diamond jubilee in 1897, 908 00:55:57,260 --> 00:56:01,458 the British Empire had turned one fifth of the world's surface pink. 909 00:56:01,500 --> 00:56:05,459 and the Queen of England ruled over a quarter of the world's population. 910 00:56:05,500 --> 00:56:09,573 They used to say the sun never set on the British Empire and it didn't. 911 00:56:09,620 --> 00:56:13,329 When the sun went down in Blighty, it was only tea time in the Sandwich Islands, 912 00:56:13,380 --> 00:56:17,419 lunch time in Winnipeg and, in Western Samoa, they'd barely had breakfast. 913 00:56:17,460 --> 00:56:22,090 From Bombay to the Gambia, at any given moment, the sun had got his hat on 914 00:56:22,140 --> 00:56:24,290 and that hat was made in Britain. 915 00:56:26,260 --> 00:56:29,013 The more I've gone from country to country, 916 00:56:29,060 --> 00:56:32,575 the less I feel able to do any sort of clever, 917 00:56:32,620 --> 00:56:36,215 end-of-documentary, smarty-pants type summing up 918 00:56:36,260 --> 00:56:39,536 cos the empire isn't one thing, it's so many threads. 919 00:56:39,580 --> 00:56:43,368 If you go right back to the beginning, it's about state-sponsored piracy. 920 00:56:43,420 --> 00:56:45,331 It becomes about stuff. It's about cod, 921 00:56:45,380 --> 00:56:47,132 it's about cotton, it's about tea, 922 00:56:47,180 --> 00:56:49,933 it's about coffee, it's about slaves. 923 00:56:49,980 --> 00:56:52,335 It's about people, mainly men, chancing their arm, 924 00:56:52,380 --> 00:56:55,975 seizing their opportunity to have a life that isn't possible 925 00:56:56,020 --> 00:56:58,534 in a very class-bound, tiny little island. 926 00:56:58,580 --> 00:57:00,969 It becomes then about moral responsibility, 927 00:57:01,020 --> 00:57:04,376 about people feeling genuinely superior to other races, 928 00:57:04,420 --> 00:57:08,049 having a moral duty to teach them how to live and how to worship. 929 00:57:08,100 --> 00:57:11,649 By the time you get to the Victorian era, it's actually a brand, 930 00:57:11,700 --> 00:57:13,895 it's a concept, it's a selling point. 931 00:57:13,940 --> 00:57:17,569 By the '20s and '30s, it's a way of people leaving England, 932 00:57:17,620 --> 00:57:21,249 an England with no jobs or prospects, and they can go to somewhere in the empire, 933 00:57:21,300 --> 00:57:24,497 they can live a life that's more British than if they'd stayed in Britain. 934 00:57:24,540 --> 00:57:28,579 I've met people who think empire and the British are a jolly good thing. 935 00:57:28,620 --> 00:57:30,531 I've met people I could barely look in the eye 936 00:57:30,580 --> 00:57:33,253 because they say that we've stolen their country. 937 00:57:33,300 --> 00:57:35,734 So I don't know. All these threads come together 938 00:57:35,780 --> 00:57:41,412 and they're knitted into a big, shapeless, moth-eaten old woolly that is the empire 939 00:57:41,460 --> 00:57:45,214 and some people are very fond of it and some people want to chuck it in the bin. 940 00:57:45,260 --> 00:57:47,933 I don't know. I'm done. I'm going home.