1 00:00:02,300 --> 00:00:06,900 A century ago, Britain's rail network was the envy of the world. 2 00:00:06,900 --> 00:00:10,500 You could get a train from almost anywhere... 3 00:00:10,500 --> 00:00:11,860 ..to almost anywhere else. 4 00:00:13,020 --> 00:00:16,220 But many of these lines were considered unprofitable, 5 00:00:16,220 --> 00:00:17,940 and in the 1960s, 6 00:00:17,940 --> 00:00:21,020 Dr Beeching was recruited by the government to come up with a 7 00:00:21,020 --> 00:00:24,660 plan that would stop the railways from haemorrhaging money. 8 00:00:24,660 --> 00:00:28,700 He famously brought the axe down on over 4,000 miles of track, 9 00:00:28,700 --> 00:00:31,020 and 2,000 stations. 10 00:00:31,020 --> 00:00:35,020 Almost overnight, 30% of the network was closed down. 11 00:00:37,780 --> 00:00:39,260 50 years on, 12 00:00:39,260 --> 00:00:43,060 I'm going on a journey to discover just a few of those lost lines. 13 00:00:51,540 --> 00:00:54,500 I'll be walking the Penrith to Cockermouth line in Cumbria. 14 00:00:56,620 --> 00:01:00,340 I'll get an insight into the mining industry that thrived here... 15 00:01:00,340 --> 00:01:01,820 That's got to be lead, isn't it? 16 00:01:01,820 --> 00:01:04,980 I'll follow in the footsteps of the region's first tourists... 17 00:01:04,980 --> 00:01:07,620 This is magic! Woo-hoo-hoo! 18 00:01:07,620 --> 00:01:10,540 And I'll seek out some of the relics of the past... 19 00:01:10,540 --> 00:01:13,140 This is brilliant. This is just what I wanted to see! 20 00:01:13,140 --> 00:01:15,420 And finally, experience what the Lakes' 21 00:01:15,420 --> 00:01:20,060 most famous guide-book writer described as "the ultimate view". 22 00:01:39,140 --> 00:01:41,420 I'm here at Penrith Station. 23 00:01:41,420 --> 00:01:45,660 It's on the main line between London and Glasgow, and once upon a time, 24 00:01:45,660 --> 00:01:48,820 you would have changed here for what was one of Britain's 25 00:01:48,820 --> 00:01:50,860 most popular branch lines. 26 00:01:50,860 --> 00:01:54,100 Only now, 50 years on, it's become one of Britain's 27 00:01:54,100 --> 00:01:56,260 great lost railways, 28 00:01:56,260 --> 00:01:58,500 and I've come to rediscover it. 29 00:02:01,900 --> 00:02:03,220 Like so many lines, 30 00:02:03,220 --> 00:02:07,540 it was built to transport freight from Britain's industrial heartland 31 00:02:07,540 --> 00:02:12,020 to the Cumbrian coast, some 40 miles or so in that direction, 32 00:02:12,020 --> 00:02:16,500 but it's what lies in-between those points that interests me. 33 00:02:16,500 --> 00:02:18,700 They used to call it Lakeland. 34 00:02:18,700 --> 00:02:21,620 Nowadays, we know it as the Lake District. 35 00:02:25,100 --> 00:02:28,860 I'm walking the Penrith to Cockermouth line in Cumbria, 36 00:02:28,860 --> 00:02:32,220 closely following its 31.5 mile stretch, 37 00:02:32,220 --> 00:02:36,380 that passes through some of the most stunning countryside in Britain. 38 00:02:39,780 --> 00:02:43,620 This old branch line is called the CKP, and was opened only for goods 39 00:02:43,620 --> 00:02:48,660 traffic in 1864, carrying minerals like iron ore, lead, and coal, 40 00:02:48,660 --> 00:02:51,100 from the ten major mines operating in 41 00:02:51,100 --> 00:02:53,420 West Cumberland and South Durham. 42 00:02:57,660 --> 00:03:00,020 The line cost much more than anticipated, 43 00:03:00,020 --> 00:03:03,300 and while the mineral traffic wasn't as lucrative as predicted, 44 00:03:03,300 --> 00:03:07,180 the passenger and goods traffic made the CKP profitable. 45 00:03:07,180 --> 00:03:09,940 Penrith Station today sees passenger and freight trains, 46 00:03:09,940 --> 00:03:14,660 but what I want to know is where to pick up the branch line that's been lost. 47 00:03:14,660 --> 00:03:18,340 To help me get along my way, I've come to meet Ken Harper, 48 00:03:18,340 --> 00:03:21,780 who started working here as a youngster in 1965, 49 00:03:21,780 --> 00:03:25,380 and back then, his official job title was Signal Box Lad. 50 00:03:28,260 --> 00:03:29,340 Hello. 51 00:03:29,340 --> 00:03:31,780 How do you do? Thanks for meeting me here. 52 00:03:31,780 --> 00:03:34,660 So, this is where you used to work here? 53 00:03:34,660 --> 00:03:36,660 I worked in the signal box at that end. 54 00:03:36,660 --> 00:03:38,860 So, yes, it was rather exciting at the time. 55 00:03:38,860 --> 00:03:40,820 Was it? Do you remember what it was like? Oh, yeah. 56 00:03:40,820 --> 00:03:42,500 I was learning to be a signalman, 57 00:03:42,500 --> 00:03:44,460 but assisting the signalman at the same time. 58 00:03:44,460 --> 00:03:46,780 You were the learning on the job? Learning on the job. 59 00:03:46,780 --> 00:03:49,460 What've you got here, Ken? This was part of the signalling system. 60 00:03:49,460 --> 00:03:53,060 To ensure that trains didn't meet on a single line, and crash 61 00:03:53,060 --> 00:03:57,820 into each other, the driver had to be in possession of a key token. 62 00:03:57,820 --> 00:04:00,420 So, what would this do then? You handed this to the driver? 63 00:04:00,420 --> 00:04:03,860 The signalman gets that out of the machine in the signal box, with the 64 00:04:03,860 --> 00:04:07,940 agreement of the signalman at the other end, puts it into the pouch, 65 00:04:07,940 --> 00:04:11,580 gives it to the driver of the train, to go onto the single line, and then 66 00:04:11,580 --> 00:04:15,420 as the train goes past, he would hand it to the driver like that. 67 00:04:15,420 --> 00:04:19,100 So then that way, no-one else was allowed onto that section of line. Exactly. 68 00:04:19,100 --> 00:04:22,620 And it was a sackable offence for him to go on the single line without the key. 69 00:04:22,620 --> 00:04:25,060 Well, understandably. I mean, that's a huge safety risk. 70 00:04:25,060 --> 00:04:26,140 Yes, exactly. 71 00:04:26,140 --> 00:04:28,540 Well, if I wanted to start walking the old line, 72 00:04:28,540 --> 00:04:30,220 where do I need to get started? 73 00:04:30,220 --> 00:04:33,940 Right. If you walk across here, then the actual junction from the main 74 00:04:33,940 --> 00:04:38,580 line to the Keswick line is about half a mile that ways. 75 00:04:38,580 --> 00:04:40,980 OK, so I will need to be heading up there, 76 00:04:40,980 --> 00:04:43,180 and then I'm going to be looking to branch out west. 77 00:04:43,180 --> 00:04:44,940 Branches out off to the right, yes. Oh, yeah. 78 00:04:44,940 --> 00:04:47,540 It's a bit overgrown now, but I'm sure you'll spot it there. 79 00:04:47,540 --> 00:04:51,300 I feel like I'm living civilisation behind, then, and heading off into the wilderness. 80 00:04:51,300 --> 00:04:54,420 It's a great unknown, but I'm sure you'll be OK! 81 00:05:03,300 --> 00:05:05,500 And because this is still operated main line, 82 00:05:05,500 --> 00:05:08,740 I've had to take a little detour, out from around the station, 83 00:05:08,740 --> 00:05:11,020 to get back here, but the station is just there. 84 00:05:15,860 --> 00:05:18,620 When the branch line first opened in 1864, 85 00:05:18,620 --> 00:05:20,820 obviously, none of this was here. 86 00:05:20,820 --> 00:05:24,420 All of this was dug out, for the motorway to be built. 87 00:05:24,420 --> 00:05:29,220 Back then, it was just a slow incline out from the station, 88 00:05:29,220 --> 00:05:30,940 and away up into the hills. 89 00:05:37,540 --> 00:05:40,300 This is where I leave the main line out of Penrith. 90 00:05:42,740 --> 00:05:44,660 We'll just start through here. 91 00:05:44,660 --> 00:05:46,020 This has gotta got to be it. 92 00:05:48,020 --> 00:05:49,500 Yes. 93 00:05:49,500 --> 00:05:55,220 That is where the branch line originally split off, 94 00:05:55,220 --> 00:05:57,700 and it is quite a climb out of Penrith. 95 00:06:01,660 --> 00:06:04,500 I'm heading west through Blencow towards Troutbeck. 96 00:06:04,500 --> 00:06:09,220 There's very little left of the old branch line around here. 97 00:06:09,220 --> 00:06:12,380 Sadly, much has been taken back by nature, 98 00:06:12,380 --> 00:06:14,060 used as a public footpath, 99 00:06:14,060 --> 00:06:17,420 or redeveloped for other purposes, like a golf course. 100 00:06:20,860 --> 00:06:23,860 So, trying to follow the path that the railway took is not going 101 00:06:23,860 --> 00:06:26,300 to be an easy task. 102 00:06:26,300 --> 00:06:28,260 A little track here. 103 00:06:28,260 --> 00:06:31,660 I reckon that track's been there a while, because I can see remnants 104 00:06:31,660 --> 00:06:35,540 of some stone there, and all this stuff's just been left here. 105 00:06:37,100 --> 00:06:38,860 This very possibly could be... 106 00:06:40,380 --> 00:06:42,740 I think it is, though. There's little clues here. 107 00:06:42,740 --> 00:06:45,380 Yeah. Look at the shape of this. 108 00:06:45,380 --> 00:06:49,020 To me, that's saying that is the keystone in the top of an 109 00:06:49,020 --> 00:06:50,420 arch bridge. 110 00:06:50,420 --> 00:06:53,540 I reckon this is what's left of a 111 00:06:53,540 --> 00:06:57,180 demolished stone arch railway bridge, 112 00:06:57,180 --> 00:06:59,220 on our line, 113 00:06:59,220 --> 00:07:01,340 which went across this gap here. 114 00:07:02,620 --> 00:07:04,580 There's another clue up there, I think. 115 00:07:04,580 --> 00:07:07,660 You've got what looks like a fairly modern house behind, 116 00:07:07,660 --> 00:07:08,700 from the brickwork. 117 00:07:08,700 --> 00:07:10,300 See this little hut, here? 118 00:07:10,300 --> 00:07:12,740 That is much older brickwork there. 119 00:07:12,740 --> 00:07:15,260 That would have been right alongside the railway itself, 120 00:07:15,260 --> 00:07:17,860 that's some kind of railway maintenance hut, there. 121 00:07:22,340 --> 00:07:25,460 I'm a few miles beyond the old Troutbeck Station, 122 00:07:25,460 --> 00:07:27,060 which has completely vanished. 123 00:07:31,420 --> 00:07:35,620 But what does exist somewhere around here is a lost relic of 124 00:07:35,620 --> 00:07:37,060 Victorian architecture. 125 00:07:39,300 --> 00:07:43,740 Now, what better way to be brought west into true Lake District 126 00:07:43,740 --> 00:07:46,980 landscape than this - 127 00:07:46,980 --> 00:07:49,220 the Mosedale Viaduct. 128 00:07:49,220 --> 00:07:51,740 It's absolutely beautiful. 129 00:07:51,740 --> 00:07:55,380 You're building a railway, you want to keep a straight, flat route, 130 00:07:55,380 --> 00:07:57,580 so unsurprising here in the Lake District, 131 00:07:57,580 --> 00:08:02,780 there are viaducts like this to help keep it as flat as they can. 132 00:08:02,780 --> 00:08:07,540 This is an abandoned piece of Victorian engineering, 133 00:08:07,540 --> 00:08:11,780 that's isolated in the middle of a farmer's field here. 134 00:08:11,780 --> 00:08:13,220 Nobody gets to see it. 135 00:08:15,300 --> 00:08:17,260 It's too beautiful to be lost! 136 00:08:18,940 --> 00:08:20,260 Oh, it's gorgeous. 137 00:08:21,380 --> 00:08:23,900 Look at these brick arches! 138 00:08:23,900 --> 00:08:27,740 I've never seen a bad example of a 139 00:08:27,740 --> 00:08:31,620 Victorian brick, arched railway viaduct. 140 00:08:33,420 --> 00:08:37,180 In the 1990s, the fate of the Mosedale Viaduct hung in the 141 00:08:37,180 --> 00:08:41,940 balance when British Rail decided to demolish it as a defunct 142 00:08:41,940 --> 00:08:45,980 piece of infrastructure, but in 1997, 143 00:08:45,980 --> 00:08:51,860 those plans were abandoned due to considerable pressure from a campaign to reinstate the 144 00:08:51,860 --> 00:08:54,860 Penrith to Keswick line, and personally, 145 00:08:56,580 --> 00:08:57,940 I'm very thankful for that. 146 00:09:07,860 --> 00:09:10,620 Coming to this side of the viaduct, 147 00:09:10,620 --> 00:09:14,580 train passengers would've been faced with the first big peak 148 00:09:14,580 --> 00:09:17,700 of the Lake District along this line - Blencathra. 149 00:09:21,660 --> 00:09:25,300 As I follow the line through this dramatic landscape, I'll find 150 00:09:25,300 --> 00:09:29,540 out just how challenging it was to build a railway through it. 151 00:09:29,540 --> 00:09:33,020 Railways and the Lake District don't combine at all. 152 00:09:41,300 --> 00:09:45,580 I'm 13 miles into my journey on the Penrith to Cockermouth line. 153 00:09:45,580 --> 00:09:49,220 This was one of Britain's most popular branch lines for tourism, 154 00:09:49,220 --> 00:09:51,860 and you can see why. 155 00:09:51,860 --> 00:09:54,660 I've deviated from the track slightly so I can capture my 156 00:09:54,660 --> 00:09:58,140 route from a different perspective. 157 00:09:58,140 --> 00:09:59,660 There it is - Mosedale Viaduct. 158 00:09:59,660 --> 00:10:03,180 And actually, if you use a little bit of imagination, 159 00:10:03,180 --> 00:10:08,100 you can see where the line came through from Penrith, 160 00:10:08,100 --> 00:10:10,140 heading up the valley towards Keswick. 161 00:10:10,140 --> 00:10:15,180 Imagine puffs of steam snaking their way through the valley here. 162 00:10:15,180 --> 00:10:17,380 But I'm not just here for the views. 163 00:10:17,380 --> 00:10:19,580 I'm meeting Steve Birkinshaw, 164 00:10:19,580 --> 00:10:23,140 a man who has an affinity with these surrounding peaks. 165 00:10:24,340 --> 00:10:29,540 Steve holds the world record for running up all 214 of these fells, 166 00:10:29,540 --> 00:10:32,860 in just six days and 13 hours! 167 00:10:32,860 --> 00:10:34,340 Steve! Hello. 168 00:10:34,340 --> 00:10:35,980 Hello! Good to meet you! 169 00:10:35,980 --> 00:10:37,380 Good to see you. 170 00:10:37,380 --> 00:10:39,860 Take a pew, have a rest! Thank you. 171 00:10:39,860 --> 00:10:42,220 How's that? Yeah, great. 172 00:10:42,220 --> 00:10:45,300 What more could you ask for, running on the fells on a day like today? 173 00:10:45,300 --> 00:10:47,500 In my mind, a fell is a hill. 174 00:10:47,500 --> 00:10:50,780 Is it as simple as that? Just another word for it? I think so. 175 00:10:50,780 --> 00:10:52,620 It's a hill in the Lake District. 176 00:10:52,620 --> 00:10:55,460 OK. And fell running is basically running anywhere you like 177 00:10:55,460 --> 00:10:57,020 on these areas. 178 00:10:57,020 --> 00:10:59,780 And how popular is fell running up in these parts? 179 00:10:59,780 --> 00:11:02,140 These parts, it's really popular, yeah. 180 00:11:02,140 --> 00:11:06,140 I guess it's been a part of the culture since Victorian years. 181 00:11:06,140 --> 00:11:09,020 Is that because more and more people were coming in? 182 00:11:09,020 --> 00:11:11,660 Yeah, so people were coming in because of the railways. 183 00:11:11,660 --> 00:11:15,020 They wanted to go walking on the fells, and they needed guides. 184 00:11:15,020 --> 00:11:17,780 And the guides then had races between them to see their 185 00:11:17,780 --> 00:11:19,980 pecking order - see who was the best. 186 00:11:19,980 --> 00:11:22,300 So, it became part of the local shows. 187 00:11:22,300 --> 00:11:24,100 To me, it's just freedom. 188 00:11:24,100 --> 00:11:25,860 I can just run where I want to. 189 00:11:25,860 --> 00:11:29,900 I think you're up amongst the guys who have done the most fells 190 00:11:29,900 --> 00:11:31,180 the fastest, aren't you? 191 00:11:31,180 --> 00:11:36,020 Yes, and I hold the record for going round all 214 Lake District 192 00:11:36,020 --> 00:11:38,020 fells as fast as possible. 193 00:11:38,020 --> 00:11:39,660 Which is how long? Six and a half days. 194 00:11:41,020 --> 00:11:42,740 That's really quick! 195 00:11:42,740 --> 00:11:46,020 Yeah! You must have been exhausted after that. 196 00:11:46,020 --> 00:11:48,380 Well, it took a lot out of me, actually, yeah. 197 00:11:48,380 --> 00:11:50,620 Took two years to recover from that! Goodness me! 198 00:11:50,620 --> 00:11:52,980 Back to full fitness now. And you're back out here? Yeah. 199 00:11:52,980 --> 00:11:54,220 So, where's your route now? 200 00:11:54,220 --> 00:11:57,500 I'm pretty much going straight back down. Are you? Steve, really nice to meet you. 201 00:11:57,500 --> 00:11:59,540 Good to see you, yeah. Thank you very much indeed. 202 00:11:59,540 --> 00:12:02,060 Nice to talk to you. Yeah. Enjoy the rest of your run. 203 00:12:04,340 --> 00:12:07,620 I'm back on the track now, and this section has been re-purposed 204 00:12:07,620 --> 00:12:09,860 as a Lake District Park walkway, 205 00:12:09,860 --> 00:12:14,740 and dotted along it are still some wonderful reminders of the old line. 206 00:12:14,740 --> 00:12:15,860 Old railwayman's hut. 207 00:12:17,060 --> 00:12:20,060 Bit of storage and shelter for the men working out on the line. 208 00:12:21,700 --> 00:12:26,540 At one point, there were 135 under and overbridges between 209 00:12:26,540 --> 00:12:31,060 Penrith and Cockermouth, which tells you just how difficult it 210 00:12:31,060 --> 00:12:35,420 must have been to create a route through this mountainous landscape. 211 00:12:37,580 --> 00:12:38,580 Right. 212 00:12:40,420 --> 00:12:43,780 This looks like it's going to be difficult to get through. 213 00:12:43,780 --> 00:12:45,660 In fact, it says "No Access". 214 00:12:45,660 --> 00:12:49,380 So, it was a matter of time, really, before I was going to come up against something likethis. 215 00:12:49,380 --> 00:12:52,940 This area has suffered some severe floods over the last decade or so, 216 00:12:52,940 --> 00:12:57,540 and as far as I'm aware, a lot of the trail up here was 217 00:12:57,540 --> 00:13:00,860 really quite badly damaged, almost washed away. 218 00:13:00,860 --> 00:13:04,060 So, that's as far as I can go up here. 219 00:13:04,060 --> 00:13:07,940 So, back round and a bit of a detour, I guess. 220 00:13:16,100 --> 00:13:19,540 There's a lot of local campaigning to get this track reinstated 221 00:13:19,540 --> 00:13:23,420 as a railway, so I've arranged to meet park ranger Cath Johnson, 222 00:13:23,420 --> 00:13:25,340 of the Lake District Park Authority, 223 00:13:25,340 --> 00:13:28,140 to find out what this trail means to the local community. 224 00:13:29,300 --> 00:13:31,100 Nice to see you. Yeah. Nice to meet you. 225 00:13:31,100 --> 00:13:34,420 So, this is why I couldn't come across along there. Yes. 226 00:13:34,420 --> 00:13:37,660 So, you can see, there's a very big bridge missing here. 227 00:13:37,660 --> 00:13:43,420 So, December 2015, Storm Desmond hit Cumbria, and this bridge here 228 00:13:43,420 --> 00:13:47,660 was knocked clean off its abutments, and just left as wreckage. 229 00:13:47,660 --> 00:13:49,980 That just happened in a 24-hour period. 230 00:13:49,980 --> 00:13:53,540 So, they were there on Saturday morning, and by Sunday morning, they'd gone. 231 00:13:53,540 --> 00:13:54,820 Goodness me. Yeah. 232 00:13:54,820 --> 00:13:59,020 This was one of the biggest record storms. 233 00:13:59,020 --> 00:14:02,420 Unprecedented levels, historically. 234 00:14:02,420 --> 00:14:05,180 It was just devastation, really. 235 00:14:05,180 --> 00:14:07,380 It must be such a tough time for the community. 236 00:14:07,380 --> 00:14:10,500 Well, the significance of this path was it was just such a jewel 237 00:14:10,500 --> 00:14:11,700 in the crown. 238 00:14:11,700 --> 00:14:14,420 It's a level route, people's children have learned to 239 00:14:14,420 --> 00:14:17,580 cycle on this route, but people with limited mobility as well, 240 00:14:17,580 --> 00:14:22,740 you know, so trampers, all-terrain scooters, wheelchair access. 241 00:14:22,740 --> 00:14:25,260 Cyclists, runners - you name it. 242 00:14:25,260 --> 00:14:27,900 So, the loss was really felt by the community. 243 00:14:27,900 --> 00:14:30,700 Do you think the line here would ever be reinstated as a 244 00:14:30,700 --> 00:14:32,420 railway line, back through here? 245 00:14:32,420 --> 00:14:36,660 Well, it's not within the realms of impossibility that we would 246 00:14:36,660 --> 00:14:40,620 see some sort of transport system using this route in the future, 247 00:14:40,620 --> 00:14:44,980 and that could be anything - you know, something like 248 00:14:44,980 --> 00:14:48,820 driverless pods, in fact, could be seen using the route, probably. 249 00:14:48,820 --> 00:14:51,380 There's a thought! There's a thought! 250 00:14:51,380 --> 00:14:55,620 This possibly could become some kind of futuristic transportation 251 00:14:55,620 --> 00:14:57,620 along this route. Well, it's a possibility. 252 00:14:57,620 --> 00:14:58,740 Tell you what, 253 00:14:58,740 --> 00:15:01,500 I'm going to ponder on that as I continue on my journey, Cath. 254 00:15:01,500 --> 00:15:04,060 Well, thanks very much. OK. Yeah. Nice to meet you. 255 00:15:07,700 --> 00:15:08,980 Driverless pods. 256 00:15:08,980 --> 00:15:11,300 Sounds very Jurassic Park. 257 00:15:11,300 --> 00:15:14,900 While the future is uncertain, we can be sure about the past, 258 00:15:14,900 --> 00:15:18,300 and I'm meeting bridge expert John Mather to find out more 259 00:15:18,300 --> 00:15:20,220 about the man who designed this line, 260 00:15:20,220 --> 00:15:23,500 pioneering engineer, Thomas Bouch. 261 00:15:23,500 --> 00:15:24,740 Mind if I join you here? 262 00:15:24,740 --> 00:15:27,220 This a nice little spot, isn't it? It's absolutely gorgeous. 263 00:15:27,220 --> 00:15:30,740 This is one of Thomas Bouch's original bridges 264 00:15:30,740 --> 00:15:34,100 on the Cockermouth-Keswick-Penrith line. 265 00:15:34,100 --> 00:15:37,380 He designed three railways within Cumbria. 266 00:15:37,380 --> 00:15:39,980 All of them were well-built, 267 00:15:39,980 --> 00:15:43,540 and altogether, he designed over 300 miles of railways, 268 00:15:43,540 --> 00:15:45,060 and some large bridges, 269 00:15:45,060 --> 00:15:47,700 within Northern England and Southern Scotland. 270 00:15:47,700 --> 00:15:50,020 So, let's talk about this particular bridge, 271 00:15:50,020 --> 00:15:52,780 cos this is quite an iconic bridge, really, isn't it? It's a classic. 272 00:15:52,780 --> 00:15:54,980 The inverse bowstring truss bridge. 273 00:15:54,980 --> 00:15:58,220 I mean, it looks a little bit like an arch underneath the bridge. 274 00:15:58,220 --> 00:16:00,860 What's the advantage of having it under rather than over the top? 275 00:16:00,860 --> 00:16:05,540 It makes the bridge more stable, cos the train and carriages 276 00:16:05,540 --> 00:16:09,940 are above the bridge, so the dead load is within the structure. 277 00:16:09,940 --> 00:16:11,420 So, the centre of gravity is lower. 278 00:16:11,420 --> 00:16:12,500 That's right, yeah. 279 00:16:12,500 --> 00:16:14,660 And the actual structure is so light. 280 00:16:14,660 --> 00:16:15,820 It's so slender. 281 00:16:15,820 --> 00:16:18,700 Railways and Lake District don't combine at all. 282 00:16:18,700 --> 00:16:22,660 However, Thomas Bouch was such an ambitious and innovative engineer, 283 00:16:22,660 --> 00:16:25,540 he decided he could do it. 284 00:16:25,540 --> 00:16:29,940 Through force of character and some incredible innovative engineering, 285 00:16:29,940 --> 00:16:32,820 he managed to weave the railway line through some 286 00:16:32,820 --> 00:16:34,940 dreadful mountainous scenery. 287 00:16:36,900 --> 00:16:40,580 Thomas Bouch was, without doubt, an expert engineer. 288 00:16:40,580 --> 00:16:42,740 He was even knighted for his achievements, 289 00:16:42,740 --> 00:16:45,820 but this tale has a sour end. 290 00:16:45,820 --> 00:16:48,900 15 years after he completed the CKP line, 291 00:16:48,900 --> 00:16:52,060 he built the Tay Bridge in Dundee. 292 00:16:52,060 --> 00:16:53,460 The poor materials, 293 00:16:53,460 --> 00:16:59,460 unskilled labour and bad maintenance all led to tragic disaster in 1879. 294 00:17:00,780 --> 00:17:04,860 During a fierce storm, the bridge collapsed while a train was 295 00:17:04,860 --> 00:17:07,820 travelling over it, and 75 people died. 296 00:17:12,460 --> 00:17:15,860 Thomas Bouch was ultimately held responsible. 297 00:17:15,860 --> 00:17:19,660 He died ten months later, with his reputation in tatters. 298 00:17:21,820 --> 00:17:23,220 It's a pity, really, 299 00:17:23,220 --> 00:17:26,460 that he hadn't stopped once he built some of his good bridges. 300 00:17:26,460 --> 00:17:28,900 He's remembered now for all the wrong reasons. 301 00:17:28,900 --> 00:17:30,100 For the Tay Bridge disaster? 302 00:17:30,100 --> 00:17:31,180 Exactly, yeah. 303 00:17:31,180 --> 00:17:34,580 He could've been celebrated and feted for the schemes he did 304 00:17:34,580 --> 00:17:36,860 in Cumbria, I do believe. 305 00:17:41,220 --> 00:17:45,220 Building these lines was bold and ambitious, and I'm keen to 306 00:17:45,220 --> 00:17:49,060 continue on this journey to see more of this old line. 307 00:17:49,060 --> 00:17:51,100 Keswick is a busy market town, 308 00:17:51,100 --> 00:17:54,020 surrounded by mountains like Skiddaw. 309 00:17:54,020 --> 00:17:57,580 The well-preserved station platform reveals more about how the 310 00:17:57,580 --> 00:18:00,380 railways and hotels worked hand-in-hand. 311 00:18:06,820 --> 00:18:10,140 The closer you get... Yeah. 312 00:18:10,140 --> 00:18:12,340 Loads of it still intact. 313 00:18:12,340 --> 00:18:15,420 That whole canopy is exactly the same. 314 00:18:15,420 --> 00:18:18,060 The railway track curves off round to the right. 315 00:18:18,060 --> 00:18:19,780 That's great. 316 00:18:19,780 --> 00:18:24,020 The Keswick Hotel is right behind the station here, purposefully so. 317 00:18:24,020 --> 00:18:26,980 I'm here to meet Bob, who's going to give me a bit more history 318 00:18:26,980 --> 00:18:30,380 about the hotel and the station here in Keswick, 319 00:18:30,380 --> 00:18:33,620 and how much of a hub Keswick was for tourists in the Lake District. 320 00:18:39,180 --> 00:18:40,900 Bob, very, very nice to meet you. 321 00:18:40,900 --> 00:18:42,260 Well, this is lovely, isn't it? 322 00:18:42,260 --> 00:18:47,260 It's a famous spot, this, and the second of January, 1875, 323 00:18:47,260 --> 00:18:50,860 was a red letter day, cos that's the day the first train came... 324 00:18:50,860 --> 00:18:53,020 From Penrith... ..from Penrith... 325 00:18:53,020 --> 00:18:54,700 ..here into Keswick. 326 00:18:54,700 --> 00:18:56,500 On to Cockermouth. On to Cockermouth. 327 00:18:56,500 --> 00:19:01,660 And I suppose every schoolchild in Keswick was here - half the town. 328 00:19:01,660 --> 00:19:04,780 An enormous cheer when the train stopped, you know? 329 00:19:04,780 --> 00:19:05,980 Absolutely! 330 00:19:05,980 --> 00:19:07,500 It was a big moment, wasn't it? 331 00:19:07,500 --> 00:19:09,820 It's putting Keswick firmly on the map. 332 00:19:09,820 --> 00:19:11,020 Absolutely. 333 00:19:11,020 --> 00:19:12,460 Was there an element, then, 334 00:19:12,460 --> 00:19:16,700 that the railway was helping to sell the dream of the Lake District? 335 00:19:16,700 --> 00:19:20,180 I'm sure it was, although the initial reason was some 336 00:19:20,180 --> 00:19:23,180 businessmen who wanted to make money, that was the railway 337 00:19:23,180 --> 00:19:26,060 they were thinking of, but the tourism element increased. 338 00:19:26,060 --> 00:19:28,900 That just made it easier for people to get here. It did. 339 00:19:28,900 --> 00:19:32,540 And there were lots of hidden freedoms as well, 340 00:19:32,540 --> 00:19:34,100 which people don't often talk about. 341 00:19:34,100 --> 00:19:35,500 I mean, for example, 342 00:19:35,500 --> 00:19:37,900 you've got a bigger choice of a boyfriend or a girlfriend. 343 00:19:37,900 --> 00:19:40,540 I mean, I'm quite certain that quite a few people used the 344 00:19:40,540 --> 00:19:43,220 railways to have one girlfriend in Keswick, and one in Penrith, 345 00:19:43,220 --> 00:19:45,220 and that made sure they never met, you see? 346 00:19:45,220 --> 00:19:47,420 Yes, it was a real freedom. 347 00:19:47,420 --> 00:19:50,180 So, first of all, then, was upper-class tourists. Yes. 348 00:19:50,180 --> 00:19:52,980 If you take, for example, the design of this platform, 349 00:19:52,980 --> 00:19:55,300 at this far end here there's a big door, 350 00:19:55,300 --> 00:19:58,020 and that goes into this new hotel, and the first-class 351 00:19:58,020 --> 00:20:01,620 passengers could go straight from that without getting wet. 352 00:20:01,620 --> 00:20:04,020 With the canopy over them. Yeah, indeed. 353 00:20:04,020 --> 00:20:07,780 One person who came across was the Kaiser himself, Wilhelm, 354 00:20:07,780 --> 00:20:09,700 and he brought his cars with him - 355 00:20:09,700 --> 00:20:11,740 the Yellow Earl. They were all painted yellow. 356 00:20:11,740 --> 00:20:14,860 And he must have used the railways to get the cars here. 357 00:20:14,860 --> 00:20:17,620 Were there other famous people who stayed here at Keswick? 358 00:20:17,620 --> 00:20:19,820 Well, we know Winston Churchill was here. 359 00:20:19,820 --> 00:20:25,060 The Royals, of course - 1956, the present queen, she was here, 360 00:20:25,060 --> 00:20:27,900 and was photographed in front of, of course, the hotel. 361 00:20:27,900 --> 00:20:31,980 Well, as the railways allows all those early tourists to head 362 00:20:31,980 --> 00:20:35,100 off into the Lake District, I'm going to continue my journey 363 00:20:35,100 --> 00:20:36,140 through as well, Bob. 364 00:20:36,140 --> 00:20:37,460 Thanks very much. Bye-bye now. 365 00:20:41,100 --> 00:20:44,900 This illustrious building, and its adjoining platform, 366 00:20:44,900 --> 00:20:49,060 gives me a snapshot of the exceptional standard of this Victorian route. 367 00:20:53,420 --> 00:20:56,940 And it's no surprise to learn that, as a consequence, 368 00:20:56,940 --> 00:21:01,100 Keswick has retained its reputation as a go-to destination. 369 00:21:06,740 --> 00:21:09,620 But it wasn't just tourists that the railways brought in - 370 00:21:09,620 --> 00:21:12,220 it was industry that put the Lakes on the map. 371 00:21:12,220 --> 00:21:17,260 The railway suddenly arrived, and altered the whole scheme of things. 372 00:21:24,780 --> 00:21:27,140 I'm in the tourist town of Keswick, 373 00:21:27,140 --> 00:21:30,180 walking the old Penrith to Cockermouth line. 374 00:21:30,180 --> 00:21:33,140 I want to take a look at a curious instrument that, 375 00:21:33,140 --> 00:21:36,540 because it was so heavy, relied entirely on the railways for 376 00:21:36,540 --> 00:21:39,700 its transportation and its success. 377 00:21:39,700 --> 00:21:42,340 This is it, is it? This is it. 378 00:21:42,340 --> 00:21:45,260 This is the work of Joseph Richardson, 379 00:21:45,260 --> 00:21:47,220 a local stonemason in this area. 380 00:21:47,220 --> 00:21:50,460 He became very interested in the musical properties of the 381 00:21:50,460 --> 00:21:51,540 Skiddaw stone. 382 00:21:51,540 --> 00:21:53,340 That mountain range, or mountain group... 383 00:21:53,340 --> 00:21:56,020 Skiddaw is the mountain range, and on Skiddaw, 384 00:21:56,020 --> 00:21:58,540 you find hornfel stones, which are what these are. 385 00:21:58,540 --> 00:22:00,860 Ooh, there's a sound! 386 00:22:01,980 --> 00:22:04,380 The hornfel is a metamorphic rock, 387 00:22:04,380 --> 00:22:07,420 and to get the musical stones to actually play, 388 00:22:07,420 --> 00:22:10,420 you need a rock that the grains are really close to one another, 389 00:22:10,420 --> 00:22:12,660 to carry the vibration through the stone. 390 00:22:12,660 --> 00:22:17,700 And so, 1827, Richardson starts playing a little bit with the 391 00:22:17,700 --> 00:22:20,340 stone and becomes completely obsessed. 392 00:22:20,340 --> 00:22:22,980 13 years later, this is the product. 393 00:22:22,980 --> 00:22:24,740 13 years?! 13 years. 394 00:22:24,740 --> 00:22:26,620 Can I have a little... Certainly! 395 00:22:31,060 --> 00:22:33,340 But you have to give it quite a bang. 396 00:22:37,180 --> 00:22:39,620 That sounds beautifully in-tune, I have to say! 397 00:22:39,620 --> 00:22:41,900 Is that what took Richardson so long? 398 00:22:41,900 --> 00:22:45,180 Making sure that the tone was absolutely perfect on all of these stones? 399 00:22:45,180 --> 00:22:48,700 That is the real skill behind what he was doing. Wow. 400 00:22:48,700 --> 00:22:51,100 So, was this quite successful, then, once it was finished? 401 00:22:51,100 --> 00:22:52,620 It was hugely successful. 402 00:22:52,620 --> 00:22:56,100 Joseph Richardson and his son set off on a three-week tour, 403 00:22:56,100 --> 00:22:58,020 and they didn't come back for three years, 404 00:22:58,020 --> 00:22:59,940 travelling all the way through Europe by train. 405 00:22:59,940 --> 00:23:02,020 They'd take this around with them? 406 00:23:02,020 --> 00:23:04,420 Yep. You can imagine the weight of these stones. 407 00:23:04,420 --> 00:23:05,500 Yeah, I know. 408 00:23:05,500 --> 00:23:08,140 I doubt if they had roadies back then, either, helping them out! 409 00:23:08,140 --> 00:23:10,660 Do you think this would've had a bit of a reputation, then, and 410 00:23:10,660 --> 00:23:14,060 people would've been quite excited, "Oh, I've heard about this! We need to go see it!" 411 00:23:14,060 --> 00:23:15,300 Everybody was very excited. 412 00:23:15,300 --> 00:23:17,780 The boys actually went to do a performance at 413 00:23:17,780 --> 00:23:22,180 Buckingham Palace and had to give an encore for it. 414 00:23:22,180 --> 00:23:23,260 Wow. 415 00:23:23,260 --> 00:23:26,420 And I've never heard rocks sound like this before. 416 00:23:26,420 --> 00:23:28,060 Just lovely harmonies there. 417 00:23:32,700 --> 00:23:34,020 Absolutely beautiful. 418 00:23:34,020 --> 00:23:36,500 Thank you so much for showing this to me, Becks. Not a problem. 419 00:23:36,500 --> 00:23:37,500 This is lovely. 420 00:23:44,380 --> 00:23:48,380 I'm leaving Keswick now, and trying to get back onto the old line, 421 00:23:48,380 --> 00:23:51,100 but some parts of it have either completely vanished, 422 00:23:51,100 --> 00:23:53,220 or are totally hidden from view. 423 00:23:55,740 --> 00:23:59,540 I want to make sure I really can find where it went. 424 00:23:59,540 --> 00:24:01,460 Here we go. Keswick. 425 00:24:01,460 --> 00:24:06,220 There's the station, which is behind me, there. 426 00:24:06,220 --> 00:24:08,820 So, from the station it does bend round to the right, 427 00:24:08,820 --> 00:24:13,860 which means, I think, it probably hugged this line through here. 428 00:24:15,020 --> 00:24:18,260 So, I think I need to be back just along these trees. 429 00:24:23,980 --> 00:24:25,540 Here we go. 430 00:24:25,540 --> 00:24:30,500 Whenever you've got a bit that's built up suddenly, like this here, 431 00:24:30,500 --> 00:24:32,820 that says to me "railway embankment". 432 00:24:36,380 --> 00:24:37,580 I'm back on track. 433 00:24:43,020 --> 00:24:46,780 I'm 20 miles along the old line from Penrith to Cockermouth, 434 00:24:46,780 --> 00:24:49,780 tracing the route to the old mining village of Braithwaite 435 00:24:49,780 --> 00:24:52,540 to check out the now defunct Force Crag Mine. 436 00:24:53,780 --> 00:24:56,740 This area was once an industrial landscape, 437 00:24:56,740 --> 00:25:00,020 and the railway at the bottom of the valley in Braithwaite played 438 00:25:00,020 --> 00:25:02,860 a big part in moving all the lead and zinc mined here. 439 00:25:05,140 --> 00:25:07,140 Waiting for me is Ian Tyler, 440 00:25:07,140 --> 00:25:11,940 a man who had the explosive task of blasting the rocks with dynamite. 441 00:25:13,060 --> 00:25:14,340 It's quite a walk, that, Ian! 442 00:25:14,340 --> 00:25:15,380 Aye, it is, isn't it? 443 00:25:15,380 --> 00:25:16,420 LAUGHTER 444 00:25:16,420 --> 00:25:18,420 Good to meet you. Yeah. I made it! 445 00:25:18,420 --> 00:25:20,380 So, this is Force Crag mine? 446 00:25:20,380 --> 00:25:23,020 Well, basically you're looking at Lob's Mill, 447 00:25:23,020 --> 00:25:27,260 which was the first real, properly-constructed workplace. 448 00:25:27,260 --> 00:25:29,500 What minerals were coming out of the hillside here? 449 00:25:29,500 --> 00:25:32,020 Lead, zinc, and barite. 450 00:25:32,020 --> 00:25:36,300 Well, part of the challenge here must have always been getting the 451 00:25:36,300 --> 00:25:38,980 mineral from the mine here, 452 00:25:38,980 --> 00:25:42,780 to export it out to where it could be sold and be useful. 453 00:25:42,780 --> 00:25:46,260 Yeah. We got the mineral, but we couldn't get it away! 454 00:25:46,260 --> 00:25:47,460 It was difficult. 455 00:25:48,740 --> 00:25:50,940 Well, it is quite isolated up here, isn't it? Yep. 456 00:25:50,940 --> 00:25:53,740 We've got a two-mile road, which you've enjoyed walking this morning. 457 00:25:53,740 --> 00:25:54,860 I have. I have. 458 00:25:54,860 --> 00:26:00,180 The railway suddenly arrived and altered the whole scheme of things. 459 00:26:00,180 --> 00:26:05,940 Now, we've got access to heavy carriage and moving things away. 460 00:26:05,940 --> 00:26:08,020 Before, it was a horse and cart. 461 00:26:08,020 --> 00:26:10,740 Well, where are you going to go with a horse and cart? 462 00:26:10,740 --> 00:26:15,060 You know, one cart only carries a tonne, tonne and a quarter. 463 00:26:15,060 --> 00:26:18,900 So, when the railways did arrive here, Braithwaite was the 464 00:26:18,900 --> 00:26:21,420 station where all this mineral would be loaded, would it? 465 00:26:21,420 --> 00:26:23,860 Yeah. But along with mines all around, as well. Yeah. 466 00:26:23,860 --> 00:26:30,140 Just in this valley, there were ten major mines and quarries, you know? 467 00:26:30,140 --> 00:26:32,980 So, this was a real industrial landscape. 468 00:26:34,380 --> 00:26:36,580 There's some lovely machinery behind us here, now. 469 00:26:36,580 --> 00:26:39,060 I imagine there's quite a bit more to see down below, is there? 470 00:26:39,060 --> 00:26:41,380 Absolutely, yeah. The mill is completely full. 471 00:26:41,380 --> 00:26:43,340 I'd love to go and see it if we can, yeah. Off we go. 472 00:26:43,340 --> 00:26:45,340 Careful down here. Yep, thank you. 473 00:26:45,340 --> 00:26:47,540 This is all... Just give me your arm. I've got you. 474 00:26:47,540 --> 00:26:48,940 I've got you. Aye, you're a good man. 475 00:26:48,940 --> 00:26:50,260 I can feel the strength in that. 476 00:26:50,260 --> 00:26:51,260 Whoa! 477 00:26:53,220 --> 00:26:56,060 It's beautifully tranquil and peaceful here at the moment. 478 00:26:56,060 --> 00:26:58,260 But back when those mines were operating, 479 00:26:58,260 --> 00:27:00,420 I imagine it was really quite different. 480 00:27:00,420 --> 00:27:01,820 Absolutely. 481 00:27:01,820 --> 00:27:04,060 Oh, that's great, all of this, Ian. 482 00:27:04,060 --> 00:27:05,100 Here we go! 483 00:27:07,860 --> 00:27:10,100 I just need a second to take all of this in, Ian. 484 00:27:11,140 --> 00:27:12,540 There's a lot of it in one place. 485 00:27:12,540 --> 00:27:14,340 It's quite cramped in here, isn't it? 486 00:27:14,340 --> 00:27:15,940 Yeah, and noisy. 487 00:27:15,940 --> 00:27:18,580 Oh! The mill, then, was all about, what? 488 00:27:18,580 --> 00:27:21,100 Crushing and processing what was coming out of the mine? 489 00:27:21,100 --> 00:27:24,300 And separating the minerals from the rock. 490 00:27:24,300 --> 00:27:29,660 OK. That's... All we're doing is making it into proper, 491 00:27:29,660 --> 00:27:32,820 workable mineral to leave to go to the railway. 492 00:27:32,820 --> 00:27:36,980 So, you would have lead, you'd have barite, and zinc. That's it. 493 00:27:38,740 --> 00:27:42,020 I was happy to be given the full tour through this wonderfully 494 00:27:42,020 --> 00:27:46,220 preserved mill, and I can tell Ian misses the days of blowing up 495 00:27:46,220 --> 00:27:47,380 rocks in the mines here. 496 00:27:47,380 --> 00:27:49,860 Enjoy your walk back down the road. 497 00:27:49,860 --> 00:27:51,260 I will. Don't get lost. 498 00:27:51,260 --> 00:27:53,540 You've given me so much enjoyment, seeing all this, Ian. 499 00:27:53,540 --> 00:27:55,380 Thank you very much indeed. 500 00:27:58,580 --> 00:28:01,460 And now, I'm getting back on track, and heading over to 501 00:28:01,460 --> 00:28:04,660 Braithwaite so I can see where all those minerals were loaded up. 502 00:28:05,740 --> 00:28:08,620 As a tourist coming to Lake District today, 503 00:28:08,620 --> 00:28:12,660 to enjoy picturesque walks, and this famous scenery, 504 00:28:12,660 --> 00:28:15,500 it's easy to ignore the fact that, for centuries, 505 00:28:15,500 --> 00:28:18,740 tourists coming here would have experienced heavy industry as 506 00:28:18,740 --> 00:28:22,580 part of this landscape from the likes of the Force Crag Mine. 507 00:28:22,580 --> 00:28:26,820 Just look and listen at how quiet it is here now. 508 00:28:27,860 --> 00:28:29,980 But just here... 509 00:28:32,140 --> 00:28:35,740 ..is the old Braithwaite Station - 510 00:28:35,740 --> 00:28:40,220 what has now been converted into this picture-perfect cottage. 511 00:28:40,220 --> 00:28:43,260 It's private property, so I've been given special access. 512 00:28:43,260 --> 00:28:46,460 But look, you can see the edge of the platform, right here, 513 00:28:46,460 --> 00:28:49,660 and this is where all the minerals from the mines in the 514 00:28:49,660 --> 00:28:53,500 surrounding valleys here would have been delivered and consolidated, 515 00:28:53,500 --> 00:28:56,700 to be loaded onto heavy freight trains, 516 00:28:56,700 --> 00:29:00,180 to be taken off around the country for further processing. 517 00:29:00,180 --> 00:29:04,420 It is a world away from what we've got here now. 518 00:29:04,420 --> 00:29:08,100 But it's a really important part of this area's history. 519 00:29:13,460 --> 00:29:16,100 I'm three-quarters of the way into my journey now, 520 00:29:16,100 --> 00:29:20,100 and heading to my first taste of what this region is renowned for - 521 00:29:20,100 --> 00:29:22,340 stunning lakeside views. 522 00:29:26,420 --> 00:29:29,300 There are 16 bodies of water in this region, 523 00:29:29,300 --> 00:29:32,980 but only one of them is traditionally called a lake. 524 00:29:32,980 --> 00:29:36,700 Lake Bassenthwaite is the fourth largest in the country. 525 00:29:39,980 --> 00:29:46,220 In 1965, construction started on one of the main east to west coast roads 526 00:29:46,220 --> 00:29:49,260 in the north of England - the A66. 527 00:29:49,260 --> 00:29:52,260 It's this road just beside me here. 528 00:29:52,260 --> 00:29:55,700 Now, the railways often took the most efficient route through 529 00:29:55,700 --> 00:30:01,500 the landscape, and so when the old CKP line closed down in 1966, 530 00:30:01,500 --> 00:30:05,900 it was the obvious choice to build a road following the same route. 531 00:30:05,900 --> 00:30:08,820 In fact, for much of its length through the Lake District, 532 00:30:08,820 --> 00:30:13,220 the A66 is built right on top of the old CKP line, 533 00:30:13,220 --> 00:30:16,140 including this stretch here, 534 00:30:16,140 --> 00:30:18,940 alongside the stunning Bassenthwaite Lake. 535 00:30:21,140 --> 00:30:25,500 The rapid growth in car ownership in the 1960s meant road networks 536 00:30:25,500 --> 00:30:27,780 were being extended all over Britain. 537 00:30:27,780 --> 00:30:30,780 People were swapping train journeys for car journeys at an 538 00:30:30,780 --> 00:30:31,780 alarming rate. 539 00:30:32,980 --> 00:30:36,420 The railways were suffering a dramatic drop in passenger use, 540 00:30:36,420 --> 00:30:39,820 and the way to stem the huge losses was for the axe to fall on 541 00:30:39,820 --> 00:30:43,460 over 50% of the stations across the network. 542 00:30:43,460 --> 00:30:46,820 It simply wasn't profitable to run routes like this any more. 543 00:31:07,500 --> 00:31:11,500 Following this old track bed, I'm hoping to find a lost relic 544 00:31:11,500 --> 00:31:16,020 of the old railway, but 52 years on since this line was closed, 545 00:31:16,020 --> 00:31:18,420 you never know if any of it will still exist. 546 00:31:21,700 --> 00:31:26,020 That's the thing with these old railway lines - sometimes it is a nice, smooth path, 547 00:31:26,020 --> 00:31:31,420 other times, you have to work a little bit harder to find the route. 548 00:31:31,420 --> 00:31:33,820 You can't get away from the fact that I'm right alongside the 549 00:31:33,820 --> 00:31:35,180 busy A66 here. 550 00:31:36,660 --> 00:31:40,060 Cars, vans, lorries continuously streaming past. 551 00:31:44,660 --> 00:31:49,540 Now somewhere up here, I'm expecting to find Bassenthwaite Station. 552 00:31:49,540 --> 00:31:54,740 I've seen some photos of it, but I've no idea what state it's 553 00:31:54,740 --> 00:31:57,740 going to be in now, or if it's there at all. 554 00:31:57,740 --> 00:32:00,540 It could've been completely ripped down and demolished, 555 00:32:00,540 --> 00:32:02,380 but that's all part of the fun. 556 00:32:02,380 --> 00:32:03,740 It's part of the adventure. 557 00:32:16,380 --> 00:32:17,460 This is man-made. 558 00:32:17,460 --> 00:32:18,500 That's not natural. 559 00:32:18,500 --> 00:32:21,580 That is...big old stone bricks. 560 00:32:21,580 --> 00:32:23,260 That's platform, maybe? 561 00:32:23,260 --> 00:32:24,780 Embankment? 562 00:32:24,780 --> 00:32:27,740 Let's have a look, confirm that... Ooh, yeah. Ugh. 563 00:32:27,740 --> 00:32:29,580 Confirm that in a sec. This is great. 564 00:32:29,580 --> 00:32:32,700 This is old railway archaeology through here! 565 00:32:36,900 --> 00:32:38,460 So, this is the station, 566 00:32:38,460 --> 00:32:41,100 and that little brick wall that's now sunk into the ground there, 567 00:32:41,100 --> 00:32:44,020 I reckon would've been the edge of the platform, so the railway would 568 00:32:44,020 --> 00:32:46,340 have been down there, dug out. 569 00:32:47,900 --> 00:32:50,220 I'm so pleased there's something left. 570 00:32:50,220 --> 00:32:54,580 Let's see if I can compare this against how it was when there 571 00:32:54,580 --> 00:32:56,460 was a railway here. 572 00:32:57,980 --> 00:33:00,180 Do you know what? It is actually from roughly here. 573 00:33:00,180 --> 00:33:02,700 You've got the two windows just down the end there. 574 00:33:02,700 --> 00:33:06,300 You've got this row of maybe five or six windows just in here, 575 00:33:06,300 --> 00:33:08,020 and this gable sticks out. 576 00:33:08,020 --> 00:33:09,260 This is excellent! 577 00:33:09,260 --> 00:33:10,740 This is exactly it. 578 00:33:10,740 --> 00:33:13,900 These are the little surprises that I absolutely love finding 579 00:33:13,900 --> 00:33:16,420 along the route here, cos they are genuine surprises. 580 00:33:16,420 --> 00:33:19,620 When you do find any kind of remnants, it's nice, 581 00:33:19,620 --> 00:33:22,980 it's special, and it kind of brings the line back to life for you. 582 00:33:22,980 --> 00:33:24,900 You've got to do your work, you know, 583 00:33:24,900 --> 00:33:27,380 you've got to put your homework in and a bit of physical work 584 00:33:27,380 --> 00:33:30,380 to get here as well, but it's so worth it. 585 00:33:41,220 --> 00:33:44,740 Swapping the railway bed for the roads, I'll finish the final 586 00:33:44,740 --> 00:33:49,060 leg of my journey in the same style as the wealthy Victorian tourists. 587 00:33:49,060 --> 00:33:51,780 This is magic! Woo-hoo-hoo! 588 00:34:02,060 --> 00:34:04,260 I'm nearing the end of my walk along 589 00:34:04,260 --> 00:34:06,700 the Penrith to Cockermouth line in Cumbria, 590 00:34:06,700 --> 00:34:10,700 which cuts through 31 miles of the most stunning Lake District scenery. 591 00:34:12,620 --> 00:34:14,380 I've arrived in Cockermouth, 592 00:34:14,380 --> 00:34:17,620 on the western edge of the Lake District National Park. 593 00:34:17,620 --> 00:34:20,500 Now, freight trains would've continued another eight miles 594 00:34:20,500 --> 00:34:23,380 or so out to the coast, but for most tourists, 595 00:34:23,380 --> 00:34:27,820 this was the end of the line, which is rather apt, really, 596 00:34:27,820 --> 00:34:31,780 because the man who encouraged many of those early tourists to 597 00:34:31,780 --> 00:34:34,740 come to the Lakes in the first place actually came from here. 598 00:34:37,980 --> 00:34:40,180 Cockermouth is an ancient market town 599 00:34:40,180 --> 00:34:43,300 where romantic poet William Wordsworth was born, 600 00:34:43,300 --> 00:34:44,860 and spent his young adult life. 601 00:34:47,740 --> 00:34:50,460 He brought the wonders of the Lake District into the hearts and 602 00:34:50,460 --> 00:34:52,940 minds of people everywhere. 603 00:34:52,940 --> 00:34:56,460 He even published a guide-book for the Lakes in 1820. 604 00:34:56,460 --> 00:34:59,740 Now, this little book was undoubtedly responsible for 605 00:34:59,740 --> 00:35:02,420 the early influx of tourists to the area. 606 00:35:02,420 --> 00:35:05,900 All right. With the line running through here, 607 00:35:05,900 --> 00:35:09,900 this is where Cockermouth Station once was. 608 00:35:09,900 --> 00:35:13,900 I mean, there's very little, if any sign at all of it here now, 609 00:35:13,900 --> 00:35:17,340 but the trains would have come in here from Penrith, 610 00:35:17,340 --> 00:35:21,620 and then headed off towards Workington in that direction. 611 00:35:21,620 --> 00:35:26,260 And the main reason so many tourists ventured as far as this is 612 00:35:26,260 --> 00:35:29,220 because by the 20th century, the station here had been 613 00:35:29,220 --> 00:35:33,540 cleverly renamed "Cockermouth for Buttermere." 614 00:35:33,540 --> 00:35:37,380 Buttermere has always been one of the most revered lakes in the 615 00:35:37,380 --> 00:35:41,180 whole of the Lake District, so to follow in the footsteps of 616 00:35:41,180 --> 00:35:44,380 those Victorian tourists, that's where I'm headed now. 617 00:35:47,220 --> 00:35:51,700 Buttermere is the unspoilt jewel in the crown of the Lake District, 618 00:35:51,700 --> 00:35:54,940 but it's ten miles away from where I am here in Cockermouth. 619 00:35:56,380 --> 00:35:58,940 Now, there was no railway to Buttermere, so, 620 00:35:58,940 --> 00:36:03,500 much like the tourists back in the 1920s and '30s might've done, 621 00:36:03,500 --> 00:36:07,220 I'm going to indulge in some new-fangled motor transport. 622 00:36:11,540 --> 00:36:12,940 This is beautiful, isn't it? 623 00:36:12,940 --> 00:36:16,180 Yeah. 1925 Humber 12/25. 624 00:36:16,180 --> 00:36:18,620 But this is exactly the type of vehicle that tourists coming 625 00:36:18,620 --> 00:36:21,220 up to the Lakes might have gone in to take their day trips? Yeah. 626 00:36:21,220 --> 00:36:23,740 It's not always as nice as today, but we have got... 627 00:36:23,740 --> 00:36:24,780 Oh, is this for me? Yep. 628 00:36:24,780 --> 00:36:26,300 Oh, yes, please! 629 00:36:26,300 --> 00:36:27,660 Have a jacket to keep you warm. 630 00:36:27,660 --> 00:36:30,140 That's made-to-measure, that, Chris! Lovely. Look at that! 631 00:36:34,380 --> 00:36:35,380 Take us away, Ken! 632 00:36:43,900 --> 00:36:46,540 So, hand-signals to indicate? 633 00:36:46,540 --> 00:36:48,180 Yeah. Everyone was used to that. 634 00:36:48,180 --> 00:36:51,100 We'd better just help everyone else on the roads are really used to it now! 635 00:36:51,100 --> 00:36:52,940 Well, yes, but I think they're looking at us, 636 00:36:52,940 --> 00:36:55,820 cos, you know, we've got some style to us. We do! 637 00:36:55,820 --> 00:36:58,300 I guess this is what it would've been seen as back then as well - 638 00:36:58,300 --> 00:36:59,780 travelling in style, this! 639 00:36:59,780 --> 00:37:01,940 Yeah, and this is for your richer traveller. 640 00:37:12,140 --> 00:37:15,900 Was it quite an established day trip, then, for tourists 641 00:37:15,900 --> 00:37:19,780 coming in on the train to get a car from Cockermouth to Buttermere? 642 00:37:19,780 --> 00:37:21,260 Yeah, they would've advertised. 643 00:37:21,260 --> 00:37:23,860 And you'd write a letter ahead, booking your place... 644 00:37:23,860 --> 00:37:25,420 OK, so well ahead! Yeah. 645 00:37:25,420 --> 00:37:28,540 When you arrive on the train, the man's there waiting for you 646 00:37:28,540 --> 00:37:30,020 to take you on your day trip. 647 00:37:30,020 --> 00:37:32,660 So, was this kind of day trip, and I guess access 648 00:37:32,660 --> 00:37:35,380 out into these more remote areas of the Lakes, 649 00:37:35,380 --> 00:37:38,620 the reserve of the rich and the affluent few? 650 00:37:38,620 --> 00:37:42,340 No, they had charabancs - ten or 12 people, squeeze them in. 651 00:37:42,340 --> 00:37:44,900 Those charabancs would have been, kind of middle classes, 652 00:37:44,900 --> 00:37:46,860 probably, being able to afford that. 653 00:37:46,860 --> 00:37:49,660 Unfortunately, the poor working classes just don't have that money 654 00:37:49,660 --> 00:37:52,420 to get out and about as much, unless you wanted to walk. 655 00:37:52,420 --> 00:37:55,020 If you can get the train to all those different train 656 00:37:55,020 --> 00:37:58,460 stations you've been stopping at, you could walk from one to the next. 657 00:38:02,380 --> 00:38:06,100 Hi. It makes people smile when it goes by, doesn't it? 658 00:38:06,100 --> 00:38:07,180 Everyone loves this! 659 00:38:10,500 --> 00:38:11,780 Look at this! 660 00:38:11,780 --> 00:38:15,260 This is why people wanted to get out of Cockermouth 661 00:38:15,260 --> 00:38:17,700 and come and see this, you know? 662 00:38:17,700 --> 00:38:20,260 I guess the motor car allowed you to do that. 663 00:38:20,260 --> 00:38:23,220 Yeah, and quicker than a horse would have done. Of course. 664 00:38:26,900 --> 00:38:28,420 This is magic! 665 00:38:31,100 --> 00:38:33,300 Woo-hoo-hoo! 666 00:38:39,140 --> 00:38:41,580 Amazing. Amazing. 667 00:38:44,380 --> 00:38:49,700 The tranquil surroundings of Buttermere are simply breathtaking. 668 00:38:49,700 --> 00:38:52,380 You can see why poets and writers have been attracted to this 669 00:38:52,380 --> 00:38:55,340 place for over 100 years. 670 00:38:57,620 --> 00:39:01,060 It's off the beaten track from the railways, but without them, 671 00:39:01,060 --> 00:39:04,860 many people would have never got to discover this unspoilt, 672 00:39:04,860 --> 00:39:07,260 natural beauty. 673 00:39:07,260 --> 00:39:10,580 One of the Lakes' most famous writers is Alfred Wainwright. 674 00:39:10,580 --> 00:39:13,860 He produced seven pictorial guide books on the Lakes that are 675 00:39:13,860 --> 00:39:16,540 still a go-to guide for tourists today. 676 00:39:16,540 --> 00:39:19,380 To tell me more about the man is Chris Jesty, 677 00:39:19,380 --> 00:39:22,340 who's been on a mission to retrace every path and fell 678 00:39:22,340 --> 00:39:24,060 that Wainwright ever documented. 679 00:39:25,500 --> 00:39:28,780 How much time did it take you to do the lot? 680 00:39:28,780 --> 00:39:30,620 Ten years and three weeks. Wow. 681 00:39:30,620 --> 00:39:35,140 It was from 2003 to 2013. 682 00:39:35,140 --> 00:39:39,020 Wainwright picked out 214 fells. 683 00:39:39,020 --> 00:39:43,420 You have re-walked every possible route? 684 00:39:43,420 --> 00:39:44,660 Yes, every route, 685 00:39:44,660 --> 00:39:47,660 and every path that was shown on the original - I've walked them. 686 00:39:47,660 --> 00:39:51,900 It sounds like an incredible amount of work that you undertook. 687 00:39:51,900 --> 00:39:55,060 Oh, well, you must remember I did nothing else for ten years. Mm. 688 00:39:55,060 --> 00:39:56,860 Was it an enjoyable experience? 689 00:39:56,860 --> 00:39:57,940 Oh, very. Yes. 690 00:39:57,940 --> 00:39:59,620 You know, a lot of people say, oh, 691 00:39:59,620 --> 00:40:01,820 they'd like to live on a farm or something. 692 00:40:01,820 --> 00:40:04,620 But at a farm, you see the same scenery every day, 693 00:40:04,620 --> 00:40:06,500 but I see different scenery every day. 694 00:40:06,500 --> 00:40:10,500 How did you come to be so involved in Wainwright's world? 695 00:40:10,500 --> 00:40:13,220 I first suggested to revise the books, I think, 696 00:40:13,220 --> 00:40:16,900 in about 1980, 697 00:40:16,900 --> 00:40:20,740 and he said he didn't want it done until after his death, 698 00:40:20,740 --> 00:40:22,940 and that was in 1991. 699 00:40:22,940 --> 00:40:26,300 And Haystacks was the place that he chose to have his ashes 700 00:40:26,300 --> 00:40:29,380 scattered when he died, because he thought that was the most 701 00:40:29,380 --> 00:40:32,340 interesting of all the Lakelands' summit areas. 702 00:40:32,340 --> 00:40:34,700 That was his favourite, then, was it? It was, yes. 703 00:40:34,700 --> 00:40:36,420 It's more interesting than some others. 704 00:40:36,420 --> 00:40:38,660 And lot of the mounts there's just nothing there at all. 705 00:40:38,660 --> 00:40:42,020 This makes me feel like I need to go and experience it somewhat myself. 706 00:40:42,020 --> 00:40:45,300 Yes. Chris, thank you very much for meeting me down here. 707 00:40:45,300 --> 00:40:47,740 The surroundings are just wonderful, aren't they? 708 00:40:47,740 --> 00:40:48,980 Oh, it's been a pleasure. 709 00:40:59,060 --> 00:41:01,660 And that's where I'm heading. 710 00:41:01,660 --> 00:41:07,500 The Lakes simply do not cease to impress...and inspire. 711 00:41:24,900 --> 00:41:26,540 There it is, look. 712 00:41:26,540 --> 00:41:31,380 Wainwright's favourite fell here in the Lake District - Haystacks. 713 00:41:31,380 --> 00:41:35,260 It is a fair way up, but it's got to be done. 714 00:41:35,260 --> 00:41:38,860 The Lake District is undoubtedly one of Britain's most distinct 715 00:41:38,860 --> 00:41:40,780 and popular places to visit. 716 00:41:40,780 --> 00:41:43,460 It has been for centuries. 717 00:41:43,460 --> 00:41:48,220 Before the railway, the upper class came by horse-drawn transportation, 718 00:41:48,220 --> 00:41:51,700 and so the arrival of the CKP line revolutionised the 719 00:41:51,700 --> 00:41:56,620 tourism industry here, bringing more people, and not just the elite. 720 00:41:56,620 --> 00:41:58,660 Now that the railway has gone, 721 00:41:58,660 --> 00:42:03,420 it's the motor car giving access to all this, to all people. 722 00:42:04,540 --> 00:42:09,620 So, whilst how tourists have arrived has shifted over time, 723 00:42:09,620 --> 00:42:13,300 why they come here has never changed, 724 00:42:13,300 --> 00:42:17,460 and I don't think there's any more I need say to explain that. 725 00:42:31,660 --> 00:42:35,220 Next time, I'll see why the lost Somerset and Dorset line 726 00:42:35,220 --> 00:42:37,220 brought financiers to their knees... 727 00:42:37,220 --> 00:42:41,260 It was this thick, boggy marshland. 728 00:42:41,260 --> 00:42:44,700 I'll make an unexpected discovery in a lost world... 729 00:42:44,700 --> 00:42:46,780 Oh, my goodness me! 730 00:42:46,780 --> 00:42:52,060 The labour intensity, along with the cash, would have been phenomenal. 731 00:42:53,140 --> 00:42:56,820 ..and I'll learn that cutting costs can cost lives. 732 00:42:56,820 --> 00:42:58,020 It killed people? 733 00:43:00,460 --> 00:43:04,140 Subtitles by Red Bee Media