1 00:00:02,300 --> 00:00:07,020 A century ago, Britain's rail network was the envy of the world. 2 00:00:07,020 --> 00:00:09,460 You could get a train from almost anywhere... 3 00:00:10,700 --> 00:00:13,260 ..to almost anywhere else. 4 00:00:13,260 --> 00:00:15,700 But many of these lines were considered unprofitable, 5 00:00:15,700 --> 00:00:17,740 and in the 1960s, 6 00:00:17,740 --> 00:00:21,340 Dr Beeching was recruited by the government to come up with 7 00:00:21,340 --> 00:00:24,860 a plan that would stop the railways from haemorrhaging money. 8 00:00:24,860 --> 00:00:26,780 He famously brought the axe down on 9 00:00:26,780 --> 00:00:31,220 over 4,000 miles of track and 2,000 stations. 10 00:00:31,220 --> 00:00:35,380 Almost overnight, 30% of the network was closed down. 11 00:00:37,860 --> 00:00:40,540 50 years on, I'm going on a journey 12 00:00:40,540 --> 00:00:42,700 to discover just a few of those lost lines. 13 00:00:52,140 --> 00:00:55,740 I'm walking the old Ruabon to Barmouth line, 14 00:00:55,740 --> 00:00:59,540 which connected the heart of England to the untamed wilderness of 15 00:00:59,540 --> 00:01:00,740 Wales... 16 00:01:00,740 --> 00:01:03,380 ..the beauty of Snowdonia. 17 00:01:03,380 --> 00:01:07,620 I'll visit the country's most famous aqueduct in order to discover 18 00:01:07,620 --> 00:01:11,300 what the Romans taught us when it came to building railways. 19 00:01:11,300 --> 00:01:13,900 I'll seek out living history. 20 00:01:13,900 --> 00:01:16,860 "I've got a dead body here," he said to me. 21 00:01:16,860 --> 00:01:19,060 Good Lord, the chap had collapsed and died on the train. 22 00:01:19,060 --> 00:01:20,300 We had to take him out here. 23 00:01:20,300 --> 00:01:22,580 We had him standing in the office over there. 24 00:01:22,580 --> 00:01:26,340 Once I reach the coast, I'll marvel at one of the oldest and most 25 00:01:26,340 --> 00:01:29,660 spectacular viaducts still in use in Britain. 26 00:01:29,660 --> 00:01:33,860 And at the end of it, I look forward to a rather nice seaside town. 27 00:01:39,300 --> 00:01:43,660 I'm in search of one of the great lost railways of Wales, 28 00:01:43,660 --> 00:01:48,340 and to get there, I need to cross the Cefn Mawr Viaduct. 29 00:01:48,340 --> 00:01:52,820 And the only way to cross it and reach my starting point is by train. 30 00:01:52,820 --> 00:01:56,740 In the 1840s, railway companies started offering low cost 31 00:01:56,740 --> 00:01:59,700 excursions so that working men and their families could travel 32 00:01:59,700 --> 00:02:02,780 to parts of the UK they may have never seen before. 33 00:02:02,780 --> 00:02:06,140 And trips like this became available to everyone. 34 00:02:06,140 --> 00:02:09,620 Now the line I'm looking for was one of the first to take 35 00:02:09,620 --> 00:02:13,300 passengers from the busy, industrial heartland of England deep 36 00:02:13,300 --> 00:02:16,660 into Wales, with its dramatic scenery. 37 00:02:20,380 --> 00:02:23,340 I'll be walking the Ruabon to Barmouth line, 38 00:02:23,340 --> 00:02:26,700 55 miles of track bed that winds through the rugged 39 00:02:26,700 --> 00:02:28,860 countryside to the beautiful Cardigan Bay. 40 00:02:35,060 --> 00:02:37,540 This is the starting point for my journey. 41 00:02:37,540 --> 00:02:40,900 In its heyday, this station was a hive of activity. 42 00:02:40,900 --> 00:02:43,060 It was a terminus with a goods depot, 43 00:02:43,060 --> 00:02:45,300 a marshalling yard and a turntable. 44 00:02:45,300 --> 00:02:49,500 But sadly, by 1974, after the wave of Beeching cuts, 45 00:02:49,500 --> 00:02:52,260 it was reduced to an unstaffed halt. 46 00:02:52,260 --> 00:02:55,500 There's a photo of it a good few decades ago now. 47 00:02:55,500 --> 00:02:57,940 There's a lot missing. 48 00:02:57,940 --> 00:03:00,980 There's a whole station building gone from that side. 49 00:03:00,980 --> 00:03:03,180 There's a canopy no longer here. 50 00:03:03,180 --> 00:03:05,740 That's still the original station building, though. 51 00:03:08,580 --> 00:03:09,820 Now it's just quiet. 52 00:03:15,660 --> 00:03:20,100 The lost railway line I'm looking for splits away from the mainline 53 00:03:20,100 --> 00:03:23,140 just outside of Ruabon station here. 54 00:03:23,140 --> 00:03:26,420 But it's been shut down for 50 years, 55 00:03:26,420 --> 00:03:31,300 so whether or not I'll find exactly where it splits, I don't know. 56 00:03:31,300 --> 00:03:33,020 I'm game for giving it a shot. 57 00:03:50,500 --> 00:03:52,740 Now the thing about lost railway lines is, 58 00:03:52,740 --> 00:03:55,660 for the most part, they're not there any more, they are lost. 59 00:03:55,660 --> 00:03:58,460 So, it can be quite tricky to find them. 60 00:03:58,460 --> 00:04:02,300 But if you know what you're looking for, there are clues out there. 61 00:04:02,300 --> 00:04:06,860 Now looking at my map, I think... 62 00:04:06,860 --> 00:04:09,460 Well, this is a bit deceptive, cos there's water down here, 63 00:04:09,460 --> 00:04:12,860 but if you come across with me, it doesn't go anywhere. 64 00:04:12,860 --> 00:04:16,420 It stops there in a bit of a kind of mucky puddle. 65 00:04:16,420 --> 00:04:18,700 Now I don't think that is a waterway. 66 00:04:18,700 --> 00:04:21,060 I think this is water that's just filled up. 67 00:04:21,060 --> 00:04:22,420 I think this is the line. 68 00:04:22,420 --> 00:04:25,220 This is definitely the first thing I've come across 69 00:04:25,220 --> 00:04:27,780 that says I'm on track. 70 00:04:27,780 --> 00:04:30,820 So, Barmouth, at the very end of the line, 71 00:04:30,820 --> 00:04:33,420 should be about 55 miles away down there. 72 00:04:35,500 --> 00:04:36,620 Pretty sure I'm right. 73 00:04:39,940 --> 00:04:43,740 It's hard to imagine walking through this overgrowth, but this was 74 00:04:43,740 --> 00:04:48,020 part of the track bed that leads to a small station called Acrefair. 75 00:04:48,020 --> 00:04:51,060 There's absolutely no trace of it now, though. 76 00:04:53,580 --> 00:04:54,580 Hoi! 77 00:04:56,700 --> 00:05:01,340 So, I've come down and I thought there might be some old clues. 78 00:05:01,340 --> 00:05:04,580 I don't know, some piles of old railway ballast or some old 79 00:05:04,580 --> 00:05:07,980 sleepers or something, but, no, there's nothing down here. 80 00:05:07,980 --> 00:05:10,900 When it's gone, it's gone. 81 00:05:10,900 --> 00:05:12,980 Especially here. 82 00:05:12,980 --> 00:05:16,660 I'm confident elsewhere on the line there will be some bigger clues. 83 00:05:18,220 --> 00:05:20,900 Taking a slight detour from the old track bed, 84 00:05:20,900 --> 00:05:24,260 I want to see what life was like before the railways by 85 00:05:24,260 --> 00:05:27,940 exploring this region's star attraction. 86 00:05:27,940 --> 00:05:31,060 Now this is the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct. 87 00:05:31,060 --> 00:05:33,420 This has been here for over 200 years. 88 00:05:34,460 --> 00:05:36,380 It was built by Thomas Telford, 89 00:05:36,380 --> 00:05:39,180 pretty much the grandfather of civil engineering. 90 00:05:39,180 --> 00:05:41,820 And it's the longest and tallest 91 00:05:41,820 --> 00:05:44,300 navigable aqueduct in the whole of Britain. 92 00:05:46,380 --> 00:05:50,260 I'm meeting Peter Jones and Lynda Slater of the Canal & River Trust, 93 00:05:50,260 --> 00:05:53,460 to find out how the railways impacted on the waterways. 94 00:05:53,460 --> 00:05:55,420 Come on board. Thank you very much. 95 00:05:55,420 --> 00:05:58,300 Have a good look at the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct. 96 00:06:03,940 --> 00:06:06,300 Now we've got the Cefn Mawr Viaduct just behind us there, 97 00:06:06,300 --> 00:06:09,860 and here we are on the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct. Yes. Yes. 98 00:06:09,860 --> 00:06:11,620 How important were the canals around 99 00:06:11,620 --> 00:06:14,220 here then before all the railways arrived? 100 00:06:14,220 --> 00:06:17,820 They actually shipped all the cargo around the country into the docks. 101 00:06:17,820 --> 00:06:20,700 So before the railways, the canals were the arteries of industry, were 102 00:06:20,700 --> 00:06:23,460 they? They were the original superhighway. The superhighways. 103 00:06:23,460 --> 00:06:25,660 It was just all about speed, wasn't it? 104 00:06:25,660 --> 00:06:28,380 River and road just wasn't enough. It was all about the timescale. 105 00:06:28,380 --> 00:06:30,860 Taking large loads in a shorter space of time. 106 00:06:30,860 --> 00:06:33,340 And it was profitable, was it? Oh, yes. 107 00:06:33,340 --> 00:06:36,100 It was going from not being able to move any industry anywhere, 108 00:06:36,100 --> 00:06:38,460 to being able to take whatever you liked across the world. 109 00:06:38,460 --> 00:06:41,500 What happened with the canals, then, when the railways came in and 110 00:06:41,500 --> 00:06:44,820 took over that industrial transportation? 111 00:06:44,820 --> 00:06:46,660 Well, it quite quickly turned into 112 00:06:46,660 --> 00:06:49,180 a tourism attraction, you know, with boat trips. 113 00:06:49,180 --> 00:06:52,580 Did it, even then? They did. So it's always been a hotspot. 114 00:06:52,580 --> 00:06:55,220 And, of course, it's convenient to England. 115 00:06:55,220 --> 00:06:58,780 It's on the border, it's a different country, different language. 116 00:06:58,780 --> 00:07:01,540 And so there was something almost... Exotic. ..exotic, 117 00:07:01,540 --> 00:07:04,300 yeah, mystical about coming abroad. Oh, yeah. Yeah. 118 00:07:04,300 --> 00:07:06,860 So we're talking here, kind of middle of the 19th century? 119 00:07:06,860 --> 00:07:09,380 Yeah, the Victorian era, yes. 120 00:07:09,380 --> 00:07:11,780 And people still do it in their, what, thousands? 121 00:07:11,780 --> 00:07:14,380 In their thousands. Thousands, yeah. Absolute thousands. 122 00:07:14,380 --> 00:07:17,340 We see nearly 500,000 visitors a year to come see the aqueduct. 123 00:07:17,340 --> 00:07:19,020 Yeah. 500,000 a year? Yeah. 124 00:07:19,020 --> 00:07:22,020 Now that it's a World Heritage site, it's just gone "boom." 125 00:07:22,020 --> 00:07:25,460 Goodness me. Yeah. Amazing. It's quite disconcerting. 126 00:07:25,460 --> 00:07:28,740 I've been chatting to you there and then I turn around and look. 127 00:07:28,740 --> 00:07:30,780 Yeah, it's a drop, isn't it? 128 00:07:30,780 --> 00:07:32,780 Birds flying beneath us. 129 00:07:32,780 --> 00:07:36,020 That's 126ft down. It's nicknamed, "the stream in the sky". 130 00:07:36,020 --> 00:07:37,460 Just because you do just feel like 131 00:07:37,460 --> 00:07:40,220 you're in the middle of, you know, flying across. Completely. 132 00:07:40,220 --> 00:07:43,420 Well, it's beautiful, and it's magnificent, 133 00:07:43,420 --> 00:07:46,500 and thank you to Mr Thomas Telford. Yes, oh, yeah. Definitely. 134 00:07:51,180 --> 00:07:54,660 I'm walking from an engineering marvel of the canals 135 00:07:54,660 --> 00:07:59,140 to a once lost but now found piece of this line's railway history. 136 00:07:59,140 --> 00:08:02,380 Train railway enthusiasts do have model railways. 137 00:08:02,380 --> 00:08:04,700 You've taken that to the next level here. 138 00:08:04,700 --> 00:08:07,340 It's like having your hobby in your back garden. 139 00:08:14,960 --> 00:08:17,600 I'm about six miles into my journey, 140 00:08:17,600 --> 00:08:21,480 walking the lost railway line from Ruabon to Barmouth in Wales, 141 00:08:21,480 --> 00:08:24,200 and I'm heading to the picturesque town of Llangollen. 142 00:08:27,200 --> 00:08:29,520 Before the advent of the railways, 143 00:08:29,520 --> 00:08:31,960 the concept of tourism was very much 144 00:08:31,960 --> 00:08:34,200 reserved for the upper classes - 145 00:08:34,200 --> 00:08:36,360 the affluent few who could 146 00:08:36,360 --> 00:08:38,520 afford vast, elaborate, 147 00:08:38,520 --> 00:08:41,120 cultural tours around the country 148 00:08:41,120 --> 00:08:43,280 by stagecoach at the time. 149 00:08:43,280 --> 00:08:44,800 But the railways, 150 00:08:44,800 --> 00:08:46,960 they were affordable. 151 00:08:46,960 --> 00:08:49,400 And so suddenly, travel became 152 00:08:49,400 --> 00:08:51,280 available to the working classes. 153 00:08:53,560 --> 00:08:56,640 Taking a trip across the border to North Wales would have been 154 00:08:56,640 --> 00:08:59,640 an entirely new experience for Victorian tourists, 155 00:08:59,640 --> 00:09:03,080 with its foreign landscapes, language and culture. 156 00:09:03,080 --> 00:09:05,480 Even now, as I follow the lost track bed, 157 00:09:05,480 --> 00:09:08,400 this feels like a hidden, magical place. 158 00:09:10,080 --> 00:09:12,280 Esteemed writers such as Shelley, 159 00:09:12,280 --> 00:09:15,600 Wordsworth and Byron were all inspired to visit. 160 00:09:15,600 --> 00:09:20,280 And later, when the railways passed nearby, the tourists followed. 161 00:09:20,280 --> 00:09:23,920 This is Plas Newydd in Llangollen. 162 00:09:23,920 --> 00:09:28,640 It is famously the former home of two upper class women who 163 00:09:28,640 --> 00:09:32,480 eloped from Ireland at the end of the 18th century to escape 164 00:09:32,480 --> 00:09:34,440 the prospect of arranged marriages, 165 00:09:34,440 --> 00:09:38,000 against the will of their influential and wealthy families. 166 00:09:38,000 --> 00:09:41,040 Lady Eleanor Butler and Miss Sarah Ponsonby 167 00:09:41,040 --> 00:09:44,720 became known as the Ladies of Llangollen. 168 00:09:44,720 --> 00:09:49,600 And the romantic lifestyle that they lived here became a source of 169 00:09:49,600 --> 00:09:53,760 intrigue and curiosity to all of those who visited the area. 170 00:09:58,680 --> 00:10:01,680 It's quite a dramatic front to a house here. 171 00:10:01,680 --> 00:10:04,640 You can't help but be impressed by it in some way. 172 00:10:05,760 --> 00:10:10,920 It's not just the house on its own - it's all of this, the gardens, 173 00:10:10,920 --> 00:10:13,720 but then beyond as well, that sets this house in context. 174 00:10:16,120 --> 00:10:19,000 While the ladies, with their unconventional romantic 175 00:10:19,000 --> 00:10:21,880 relationship, were trying to escape the spotlight, 176 00:10:21,880 --> 00:10:25,240 in the years since their deaths their unique story has enthralled 177 00:10:25,240 --> 00:10:29,000 hundreds of thousands of visitors brought here by the railways. 178 00:10:31,680 --> 00:10:34,760 Tourists have continued to flock here... 179 00:10:36,320 --> 00:10:40,800 ..attracted by this really quite seductive, 180 00:10:40,800 --> 00:10:43,280 idyllic surroundings and... 181 00:10:44,560 --> 00:10:47,080 ..the legacy of romanticism left here. 182 00:10:56,160 --> 00:11:00,920 I've just popped back down the hill to join the line again, which really 183 00:11:00,920 --> 00:11:05,080 hugs the River Dee here, all the way along the Dee Valley. 184 00:11:06,400 --> 00:11:08,840 So as I'm making my way west, 185 00:11:08,840 --> 00:11:11,480 I'm just coming up into the centre of Llangollen here. 186 00:11:16,040 --> 00:11:19,120 When this section of the line opened in 1861, 187 00:11:19,120 --> 00:11:22,920 it was busy with freight trains carrying coal and slate. 188 00:11:22,920 --> 00:11:25,360 A year later, when it opened to passengers, 189 00:11:25,360 --> 00:11:30,320 thousands of visitors started to pour into this picturesque town. 190 00:11:30,320 --> 00:11:32,720 The reason all the visitors come here today, 191 00:11:32,720 --> 00:11:36,400 the same reason all the Victorian tourists flocked here, 192 00:11:36,400 --> 00:11:40,400 it's the peacefulness, the tranquillity of these surroundings. 193 00:11:40,400 --> 00:11:44,120 And Llangollen's really turned its hand at making money from that. 194 00:11:44,120 --> 00:11:48,640 There's loads of hotels and restaurants, ice cream shops here. 195 00:11:48,640 --> 00:11:51,880 But one way these modern-day tourists can really 196 00:11:51,880 --> 00:11:55,400 experience what the Victorians had, is just over here. 197 00:12:00,760 --> 00:12:05,200 Llangollen was, and still is, a popular tourist destination. 198 00:12:05,200 --> 00:12:08,880 But the Beeching cuts in the 1960s meant this beautiful old 199 00:12:08,880 --> 00:12:13,280 station became a victim of the unprofitable line it was on. 200 00:12:13,280 --> 00:12:16,760 The last passenger train ran through here in 1965. 201 00:12:16,760 --> 00:12:21,200 The track was pulled up and the rest of it just left to rot and ruin. 202 00:12:24,680 --> 00:12:29,720 A group of passionate and dedicated volunteers re-found this lost line 203 00:12:29,720 --> 00:12:32,520 and have lovingly rebuilt ten miles of it. 204 00:12:41,040 --> 00:12:43,400 Is this a hobby that's become a profession? Yeah. 205 00:12:43,400 --> 00:12:45,560 It was a hobby, it's become a life, that's for sure. 206 00:12:45,560 --> 00:12:46,840 It's become a life. Yeah. 207 00:12:46,840 --> 00:12:48,800 The hobby's very demanding, 208 00:12:48,800 --> 00:12:52,800 but it's like having your hobby in your back garden. 209 00:12:52,800 --> 00:12:54,560 You know, my back garden's here. 210 00:12:54,560 --> 00:12:56,080 This is where I play. 211 00:12:56,080 --> 00:12:57,360 This is where I like to be. 212 00:12:57,360 --> 00:13:00,280 I love the fact that you use the word play, cos I mean 213 00:13:00,280 --> 00:13:04,920 people do, you know, train railway enthusiasts do have model railways. 214 00:13:04,920 --> 00:13:06,880 You've taken that to the next level here. 215 00:13:06,880 --> 00:13:09,720 For me, OK, it's a very serious play. 216 00:13:09,720 --> 00:13:11,680 It stems probably from childhood, 217 00:13:11,680 --> 00:13:14,280 because my father was personally interested in spotting the 218 00:13:14,280 --> 00:13:18,080 trains, and he'd shown me all this at a very early age. 219 00:13:18,080 --> 00:13:20,800 Do you have a love for the railway as well now? 220 00:13:20,800 --> 00:13:23,440 Yes. It was my second date with my husband 221 00:13:23,440 --> 00:13:26,640 was a footplate ride in December, on a Santa special. 222 00:13:26,640 --> 00:13:27,760 And he said to me, 223 00:13:27,760 --> 00:13:30,520 "If you don't like this, then we're not going to go any further." 224 00:13:30,520 --> 00:13:33,200 And I was on a footplate in freezing cold weather in December, with 225 00:13:33,200 --> 00:13:34,960 people I didn't know and a man I'd met once. 226 00:13:34,960 --> 00:13:37,560 And look at you, you're still here, so you must have enjoyed it! 227 00:13:37,560 --> 00:13:40,640 And I did, I loved it. So it's a very special experience 228 00:13:40,640 --> 00:13:42,960 going on the footplate, I've got to say. 229 00:13:42,960 --> 00:13:46,280 Do you see yourself as a kind of custodian in this period? Yeah. 230 00:13:46,280 --> 00:13:49,240 I'm keen on making sure we preserve all the original elements, 231 00:13:49,240 --> 00:13:51,080 like the old clocks and the lamps 232 00:13:51,080 --> 00:13:54,000 and things that have stemmed from the old period. 233 00:13:54,000 --> 00:13:56,200 But it's those things that when people come in here, 234 00:13:56,200 --> 00:13:57,880 you see their faces light up... Yeah. 235 00:13:57,880 --> 00:14:00,080 ..when they come and they see the station like this. 236 00:14:00,080 --> 00:14:02,240 It's gotta be a working museum serving a purpose, 237 00:14:02,240 --> 00:14:03,720 and letting people, you know, 238 00:14:03,720 --> 00:14:05,160 transport themselves from one end 239 00:14:05,160 --> 00:14:06,320 of the valley to the other. 240 00:14:06,320 --> 00:14:08,560 Well, hey, I'm very much looking forward to my journey 241 00:14:08,560 --> 00:14:09,840 along the route here. 242 00:14:15,480 --> 00:14:18,320 Railway enthusiasts Quentin and Liz McGuinness 243 00:14:18,320 --> 00:14:22,120 have been spearheading this monumental task. 244 00:14:22,120 --> 00:14:25,920 Quentin and Liz have breathed new life into this lost railway. 245 00:14:25,920 --> 00:14:28,760 People come from all around the world to get a taste of this 246 00:14:28,760 --> 00:14:31,080 great British age of steam. 247 00:14:32,360 --> 00:14:35,680 And now, the moment I've been waiting for, a chance to 248 00:14:35,680 --> 00:14:39,440 enjoy the line the same way the Victorian tourists would have done. 249 00:14:47,160 --> 00:14:49,080 Here we go. 250 00:14:49,080 --> 00:14:51,480 That sounds ominous. Tunnels... 251 00:14:54,000 --> 00:14:55,520 ..and into the Wild West. 252 00:14:57,640 --> 00:15:00,240 The scenery out here just keeps surprising me. 253 00:15:00,240 --> 00:15:01,360 And it's... 254 00:15:02,760 --> 00:15:04,040 ..truly beautiful. 255 00:15:05,880 --> 00:15:07,720 50 years on since its closure, 256 00:15:07,720 --> 00:15:10,080 this line is now busy and profitable again. 257 00:15:11,240 --> 00:15:14,840 I know Quentin and Liz would love to extend it further and claw 258 00:15:14,840 --> 00:15:17,680 back some more of its history, but the land it would need to 259 00:15:17,680 --> 00:15:22,480 pass through is now privately owned and it would cost millions. 260 00:15:22,480 --> 00:15:26,280 For now, I'm happy to sit back and enjoy this beautifully 261 00:15:26,280 --> 00:15:29,320 restored ten mile stretch, that seems to get more and more 262 00:15:29,320 --> 00:15:31,440 remote the further down the line we go. 263 00:15:52,720 --> 00:15:57,200 Now this is very obviously the end of the line as far as the Llangollen 264 00:15:57,200 --> 00:16:01,680 Heritage Railway folk are concerned, so I'm back on foot. 265 00:16:01,680 --> 00:16:06,120 But it doesn't take too much now to figure out where the line continues. 266 00:16:06,120 --> 00:16:07,880 It's straight along. 267 00:16:07,880 --> 00:16:09,040 It's all here to see. 268 00:16:12,240 --> 00:16:14,960 I'm about a third of the way into my journey now, 269 00:16:14,960 --> 00:16:16,760 and heading west towards Lake Bala. 270 00:16:19,720 --> 00:16:21,920 Although I thought I was following the line, 271 00:16:21,920 --> 00:16:24,040 I'm beginning to wonder if I've taken a wrong turn. 272 00:16:27,640 --> 00:16:30,640 I've had to check my map a couple of times along here to make sure that I 273 00:16:30,640 --> 00:16:34,280 am still following the old railway line, because... 274 00:16:35,560 --> 00:16:37,920 ..well, I'm in people's gardens here. 275 00:16:39,320 --> 00:16:41,560 So it does feel a bit odd. 276 00:16:41,560 --> 00:16:46,600 It feels like I shouldn't be here, but this is definitely the 277 00:16:46,600 --> 00:16:50,360 old route of the line, and this is absolutely a public right of way. 278 00:16:51,680 --> 00:16:56,160 So as long as I've got the River Dee on my right-hand side here, 279 00:16:56,160 --> 00:16:57,920 I know I'm following the line. 280 00:17:06,440 --> 00:17:10,480 Now this is the first bit of kind of hidden clue along this railway I've 281 00:17:10,480 --> 00:17:13,040 come across, that this was the railway, 282 00:17:13,040 --> 00:17:14,760 cos I keep wanting to remind myself. 283 00:17:14,760 --> 00:17:17,680 Look at this little stone wall built in here. 284 00:17:17,680 --> 00:17:19,680 Just keeping back the earth from 285 00:17:19,680 --> 00:17:22,080 where the tracks would have gone along here. 286 00:17:22,080 --> 00:17:24,720 In fact, actually you can see a lot... There's loads along here. 287 00:17:24,720 --> 00:17:26,400 Look at this. 288 00:17:26,400 --> 00:17:28,320 You know, this isn't natural. 289 00:17:28,320 --> 00:17:31,800 I mean, it's all covered in moss now because you haven't got 290 00:17:31,800 --> 00:17:35,680 trains rolling through here every day. 291 00:17:37,960 --> 00:17:40,920 These stones haven't seen trains through here for decades. 292 00:17:43,320 --> 00:17:45,440 Rolling stone gathers no moss. 293 00:17:46,440 --> 00:17:48,240 And these are covered in moss, 294 00:17:48,240 --> 00:17:49,960 cos there's been no rolling stock. 295 00:17:51,320 --> 00:17:55,120 You've got all this old railway ballast under me here as well, 296 00:17:55,120 --> 00:17:58,360 that this path's made out of. 297 00:17:58,360 --> 00:18:00,600 You know, that was keeping the track in place. 298 00:18:02,000 --> 00:18:03,400 It's those little clues. 299 00:18:05,040 --> 00:18:06,840 I'm stepping out of the wilderness 300 00:18:06,840 --> 00:18:09,720 into what used to be the old Bala Junction. 301 00:18:09,720 --> 00:18:13,600 And believe it or not, it's another section of restored track. 302 00:18:13,600 --> 00:18:16,800 Perhaps this railway's not so lost after all. 303 00:18:16,800 --> 00:18:19,880 I'm actually quite happy I can give my legs a bit of a rest, 304 00:18:19,880 --> 00:18:23,600 as I catch a ride and head a few miles up to Llangower Station. 305 00:18:27,920 --> 00:18:31,920 The reopening of two heritage lines on this old route is 306 00:18:31,920 --> 00:18:36,320 testament to the area's continued popularity as a tourist attraction. 307 00:18:36,320 --> 00:18:39,720 And that's no surprise with the beauty of its lakeside scenery. 308 00:18:45,400 --> 00:18:49,640 Unlike the full-sized Llangollen line, this is a narrow gauge 309 00:18:49,640 --> 00:18:52,800 track, meaning smaller locomotives and carriages. 310 00:18:52,800 --> 00:18:55,280 It almost feels like a model railway. 311 00:19:04,840 --> 00:19:08,200 As I follow the track bed of this Ruabon to Barmouth line, 312 00:19:08,200 --> 00:19:12,280 I'll meet up with a railway veteran who has some unusual stories to tell 313 00:19:12,280 --> 00:19:15,800 about his 50 years as a signal box controller. 314 00:19:15,800 --> 00:19:18,440 "I've got a dead body here," he said to me. 315 00:19:18,440 --> 00:19:21,200 And we had a corpse here all day. All day with you? Yeah. 316 00:19:32,240 --> 00:19:36,520 I'm following the lost railway line from Ruabon to Barmouth. 317 00:19:36,520 --> 00:19:39,520 I'm about halfway into my journey and I've hitched a ride on 318 00:19:39,520 --> 00:19:43,520 this restored heritage line, to take me to Llangower Station, 319 00:19:43,520 --> 00:19:48,000 which was once a busy stop for hundreds of children. 320 00:19:50,680 --> 00:19:53,000 At the beginning of the 20th century, 321 00:19:53,000 --> 00:19:55,640 the future looked bleak for the Welsh language. 322 00:19:55,640 --> 00:19:57,360 Speaking English seemed to dominate 323 00:19:57,360 --> 00:20:00,200 every aspect of life outside the home. 324 00:20:00,200 --> 00:20:03,280 So places like the Glan-Llyn Activity Centre were set up 325 00:20:03,280 --> 00:20:06,480 all over Wales to protect its culture and traditions. 326 00:20:08,200 --> 00:20:13,200 By 1953, children were being sent on the railways to this remote lakeside 327 00:20:13,200 --> 00:20:16,800 station, where they'd board a boat to take them across to the centre. 328 00:20:19,840 --> 00:20:22,200 I'm here to meet Llinas Jones Williams 329 00:20:22,200 --> 00:20:24,880 to find out why these centres were so crucial. 330 00:20:24,880 --> 00:20:26,800 SHE SPEAKS WELSH 331 00:20:26,800 --> 00:20:29,120 I'm sorry, I don't fully understand everything there. 332 00:20:29,120 --> 00:20:31,320 No, that's fine. But will you teach me some Welsh? 333 00:20:31,320 --> 00:20:33,120 I will indeed. Good. Can we do it in the canoe? 334 00:20:33,120 --> 00:20:35,000 Let's do it in the canoe, yeah. Thank you. OK. 335 00:20:35,000 --> 00:20:36,800 It's the best way to learn a new language. 336 00:20:36,800 --> 00:20:39,200 How do you say "canoe" in Welsh? A canoe. 337 00:20:43,280 --> 00:20:45,440 It's pretty calm out today, isn't it? 338 00:20:45,440 --> 00:20:47,040 Well, I'm glad actually. 339 00:20:47,040 --> 00:20:49,720 We're quite lucky in Glan-Llyn cos in Glan-Llyn we've got the bay, 340 00:20:49,720 --> 00:20:53,160 which is quite sheltered. Let's get out and have a look. OK. 341 00:20:58,680 --> 00:21:02,120 Would the kids arriving here at Glan-Llyn, 342 00:21:02,120 --> 00:21:05,880 when it first opened, would they have been arrived by rail? 343 00:21:05,880 --> 00:21:09,840 Yes, and the first camp was held in Glan-Llyn in 1950. 344 00:21:09,840 --> 00:21:13,560 So the first resident would have arrived from all around Wales 345 00:21:13,560 --> 00:21:15,800 and they would have travelled up by train. 346 00:21:15,800 --> 00:21:18,640 So imagine the excitement of being, you know, 347 00:21:18,640 --> 00:21:24,240 12, 13 and you would have travelled for hours from Swansea or 348 00:21:24,240 --> 00:21:27,160 Cardiff, or Haverford West, or whatever. 349 00:21:27,160 --> 00:21:30,040 So tell me about the Glan-Llyn Centre, then. 350 00:21:30,040 --> 00:21:34,800 Glan-Llyn is run by an organisation called the Urdd, Urdd Gobaith Cymru. 351 00:21:34,800 --> 00:21:40,840 And that was set up in 1922, because Welsh needed to be preserved. 352 00:21:40,840 --> 00:21:45,080 Basically there was a threat to it dying out altogether. 353 00:21:45,080 --> 00:21:49,320 At the time, all education was through the medium of English, 354 00:21:49,320 --> 00:21:52,560 and it was only a few decades earlier that they system of 355 00:21:52,560 --> 00:21:54,520 the "Welsh not" had been in place. 356 00:21:54,520 --> 00:21:56,840 The "Welsh not"? What's the "Welsh not?" 357 00:21:56,840 --> 00:22:02,080 Well, the "Welsh not" was a fairly cruel system that children in 358 00:22:02,080 --> 00:22:05,080 Wales were punished for speaking in Welsh. 359 00:22:05,080 --> 00:22:09,120 Say, for example, if a teacher heard one of the children speaking Welsh 360 00:22:09,120 --> 00:22:13,720 within the school grounds, then they would have to wear a plaque, like 361 00:22:13,720 --> 00:22:18,320 a wooden plaque, with the letters "WN" that stood for "Welsh not". 362 00:22:18,320 --> 00:22:20,520 And then if another child was caught, 363 00:22:20,520 --> 00:22:23,400 this plaque would be passed from child to child and whoever 364 00:22:23,400 --> 00:22:28,520 had the plaque at the end of the day would get caned six times. 365 00:22:28,520 --> 00:22:31,040 So, you... So basically, they were trying to kind of 366 00:22:31,040 --> 00:22:33,760 punish the Welsh language out of them, you know? 367 00:22:33,760 --> 00:22:37,280 Oh, my word. So it was through force. Yeah. 368 00:22:37,280 --> 00:22:40,400 The arrival of the railways wasn't always positive. 369 00:22:40,400 --> 00:22:44,200 As they provided easier access for English-speaking tourists, they 370 00:22:44,200 --> 00:22:47,640 may well have played a part in the declining use of the Welsh language. 371 00:22:57,400 --> 00:22:59,440 Back on the Heritage line here, 372 00:22:59,440 --> 00:23:03,680 finishing off my journey to the end of Lake Bala. 373 00:23:03,680 --> 00:23:07,480 So I've got a good idea of what it was like to ride the trains 374 00:23:07,480 --> 00:23:10,960 along here, but I'm about to meet a chap now who can tell me what 375 00:23:10,960 --> 00:23:14,480 it was like working on the old Ruabon to Barmouth line, 376 00:23:14,480 --> 00:23:19,280 cos he's worked every single station when it was running. 377 00:23:22,560 --> 00:23:26,040 One of the most crucial jobs on the railways fell to a dedicated 378 00:23:26,040 --> 00:23:29,760 group of men whose love for the job knew no bounds... 379 00:23:29,760 --> 00:23:31,520 ..the signalmen. 380 00:23:31,520 --> 00:23:33,560 And after 50 years on the job, 381 00:23:33,560 --> 00:23:36,960 I'm betting John Roberts will have some stories to tell. 382 00:23:36,960 --> 00:23:38,560 Well, look at it, it's beautiful! 383 00:23:38,560 --> 00:23:40,440 Similar to what it was when it was running on 384 00:23:40,440 --> 00:23:42,680 British Rail and the Great Western. Is it? 385 00:23:42,680 --> 00:23:46,400 And the instruments are exactly the same as when I started here in 1947. 386 00:23:46,400 --> 00:23:50,600 I was 15 years of age and the wages I was earning at that time 387 00:23:50,600 --> 00:23:53,240 was short of £2 - £1.90... 388 00:23:53,240 --> 00:23:55,280 That's... ..for a 48 hour week. 389 00:23:55,280 --> 00:23:58,080 I thought you were going to say per day. No, no, per week. For the week? 390 00:23:58,080 --> 00:23:59,960 Yeah, £1.90 a week. 391 00:23:59,960 --> 00:24:03,680 It's a very active job, isn't it? It's not just signalman. 392 00:24:03,680 --> 00:24:06,160 You're called into action in all different ways. 393 00:24:06,160 --> 00:24:10,960 Yeah, called into action, yeah. We were called GPs, General Purpose. 394 00:24:10,960 --> 00:24:13,520 That's a good name for it. Yeah, it was, yeah. 395 00:24:13,520 --> 00:24:16,480 One morning the guard called me over, "John, come here," he said. 396 00:24:16,480 --> 00:24:20,720 And he said to me, "I've got a dead body here," he said to me. 397 00:24:20,720 --> 00:24:23,200 Good Lord, the chap had collapsed and died on the train. 398 00:24:23,200 --> 00:24:24,800 We had to take him out here, we had 399 00:24:24,800 --> 00:24:27,440 him standing in the office over there for all day. 400 00:24:27,440 --> 00:24:29,200 That's not in the job description. 401 00:24:29,200 --> 00:24:34,080 It's not in the job description that, no, it wasn't. No. Yeah. 402 00:24:34,080 --> 00:24:37,160 When the old Ruabon to Barmouth line closed, 403 00:24:37,160 --> 00:24:38,880 how did it affect the community? 404 00:24:38,880 --> 00:24:41,480 Well, it hardly affected them, did it? You know. Really? 405 00:24:41,480 --> 00:24:44,200 Maybe it affected local merchants for awhile, 406 00:24:44,200 --> 00:24:46,560 as far as the passenger people went along. 407 00:24:46,560 --> 00:24:48,760 Adequate bus service was provided. 408 00:24:48,760 --> 00:24:50,560 And what about you? How did it affect you? 409 00:24:50,560 --> 00:24:51,720 How did it affect me? Yeah. 410 00:24:51,720 --> 00:24:54,520 Well as I say, I had to move, didn't I? Yeah. Yeah. 411 00:24:54,520 --> 00:24:56,440 I had to pack it in around this area 412 00:24:56,440 --> 00:24:59,680 and go back to Ruabon and Shrewsbury to work. 413 00:24:59,680 --> 00:25:01,680 I love characters like John. 414 00:25:01,680 --> 00:25:05,400 They're the heartbeat that keeps the history of the lost railways alive. 415 00:25:05,400 --> 00:25:06,920 Thank you so much, indeed. 416 00:25:06,920 --> 00:25:08,520 Really, really nice to meet you. 417 00:25:12,880 --> 00:25:15,040 I'm now heading along the old track 418 00:25:15,040 --> 00:25:16,560 to Dolgellau, Snowdonia, 419 00:25:16,560 --> 00:25:18,600 which is a nine mile hike 420 00:25:18,600 --> 00:25:21,240 into the rugged countryside. 421 00:25:21,240 --> 00:25:24,360 Signs of the old railway are few and far between, 422 00:25:24,360 --> 00:25:28,600 but every now and then you stumble across an obvious reminder. 423 00:25:28,600 --> 00:25:32,800 Now I wondered what I might come across when I got to here. 424 00:25:34,280 --> 00:25:35,280 So this... 425 00:25:36,960 --> 00:25:39,640 ..there's really not much of it left here now, 426 00:25:39,640 --> 00:25:41,680 but this is Drws-y-Nant Station. 427 00:25:41,680 --> 00:25:44,720 You can see, look, we've got platforms on either side here. 428 00:25:44,720 --> 00:25:47,040 There was never much here in the first place. 429 00:25:47,040 --> 00:25:49,560 I mean, look around, there's no houses. 430 00:25:49,560 --> 00:25:53,360 There never were any real houses around here. There's no industry. 431 00:25:53,360 --> 00:25:56,360 There's not really any buildings at all, which begs the question, what 432 00:25:56,360 --> 00:26:01,480 on earth would you need a station for in the middle of nowhere? 433 00:26:03,160 --> 00:26:05,560 I guess it's almost like a local bus stop, 434 00:26:05,560 --> 00:26:10,680 where you might have picked up the occasional passenger who was, 435 00:26:10,680 --> 00:26:14,560 I don't know, maybe went for a walk and decided to get the train back. 436 00:26:14,560 --> 00:26:18,800 When you see just how remote this station is, 437 00:26:18,800 --> 00:26:21,280 or was, you can start 438 00:26:21,280 --> 00:26:23,080 to understand that this line wasn't 439 00:26:23,080 --> 00:26:24,800 always that economically viable... 440 00:26:26,480 --> 00:26:29,720 ..especially once cars and trucks arrived as well. 441 00:26:33,080 --> 00:26:36,080 This wilderness would have felt extremely alien 442 00:26:36,080 --> 00:26:38,040 to 19th century tourists. 443 00:26:38,040 --> 00:26:40,400 It's no wonder this part of deepest, 444 00:26:40,400 --> 00:26:44,040 darkest Wales is often referred to as the Wild West. 445 00:26:49,880 --> 00:26:54,840 The area just off the line in this direction here was called Mawddwy, 446 00:26:54,840 --> 00:26:58,680 And it became infamous in the 16th century because of a band of 447 00:26:58,680 --> 00:27:03,480 red-headed thieves who were nicknamed The Red Bandits. 448 00:27:03,480 --> 00:27:07,480 I mean, they were effectively highwaymen terrorising locals 449 00:27:07,480 --> 00:27:09,560 and people passing through, 450 00:27:09,560 --> 00:27:12,760 and the reason they could get away with such lawless behaviour 451 00:27:12,760 --> 00:27:16,280 for so long was just because of how remote it is out here. 452 00:27:16,280 --> 00:27:21,800 There are very few towns or villages between Bala and Dolgellau. 453 00:27:21,800 --> 00:27:25,320 I mean, this pretty much was the Welsh Wild West. 454 00:27:26,760 --> 00:27:30,840 Fortunately, 200 years later when the railways did arrive, 455 00:27:30,840 --> 00:27:34,480 they took the fear out of travelling by offering a secure, 456 00:27:34,480 --> 00:27:37,960 safer passage, turning this intimidating landscape 457 00:27:37,960 --> 00:27:40,560 into a leisurely sightseeing journey. 458 00:27:44,440 --> 00:27:48,320 I've now arrived at the market town of Dolgellau. 459 00:27:48,320 --> 00:27:51,560 There's no trace of the original station that served this town. 460 00:27:51,560 --> 00:27:53,440 It was demolished in the '70s. 461 00:27:53,440 --> 00:27:57,320 But in its heyday, the railway attracted hundreds of paying 462 00:27:57,320 --> 00:28:00,600 tourists, and the locals were eager to demonstrate a different 463 00:28:00,600 --> 00:28:04,240 culture, which in turn encouraged the economy to thrive. 464 00:28:07,320 --> 00:28:09,120 Towards the end of the 18th century, 465 00:28:09,120 --> 00:28:13,360 it was noted by tourists visiting the area that many of the women were 466 00:28:13,360 --> 00:28:19,960 still wearing costume from a good 50 or 60 years earlier, if not more. 467 00:28:19,960 --> 00:28:24,440 In particular, the large, red tweed coats and mannish black hats. 468 00:28:25,600 --> 00:28:32,120 By the 1830s, this look had become recognised as Welsh national 469 00:28:32,120 --> 00:28:37,120 costume, and a lot of that was due to the fact that Welsh gentry 470 00:28:37,120 --> 00:28:41,760 at the time decided there was a need for more national identity. 471 00:28:41,760 --> 00:28:45,720 Almost a manufactured identity to be used on souvenirs and on 472 00:28:45,720 --> 00:28:49,120 postcards to satisfy visiting tourists. 473 00:28:49,120 --> 00:28:52,480 And it's an identity that's still strong today. 474 00:28:53,880 --> 00:28:56,920 It wasn't just the sight of these unusually dressed women that 475 00:28:56,920 --> 00:28:59,120 surprised the early tourists here. 476 00:28:59,120 --> 00:29:02,480 They may have been taken back by the unlikely Welsh sounds too. 477 00:29:02,480 --> 00:29:06,840 The triple harp was also adopted as a symbol of Wales. 478 00:29:06,840 --> 00:29:09,360 I've come to meet Mair Ifans. 479 00:29:13,160 --> 00:29:15,600 Wow, that's lovely. This is it, then, this is a triple harp. 480 00:29:15,600 --> 00:29:17,120 Which is the Welsh instrument. 481 00:29:17,120 --> 00:29:19,720 There would have been a harper in most pubs. 482 00:29:19,720 --> 00:29:21,920 People would dance and they would, you know, 483 00:29:21,920 --> 00:29:24,280 do clog dancing and that type of thing as well, you know. 484 00:29:24,280 --> 00:29:26,840 Oh, lovely. But because it was associated with pubs and so on, 485 00:29:26,840 --> 00:29:29,400 it became the instrument of devils. Did it? 486 00:29:29,400 --> 00:29:33,200 You know, we think of harps being music of angels. We do. 487 00:29:33,200 --> 00:29:37,080 Then after the religious people in Wales during the 19th century, 488 00:29:37,080 --> 00:29:40,720 they wanted them burnt in Bala, for example. 489 00:29:40,720 --> 00:29:42,000 Goodness me. 490 00:29:42,000 --> 00:29:46,760 Because it was creating these urges in people in the pubs to go dancing. 491 00:29:46,760 --> 00:29:49,720 It was having a detrimental influence to society. 492 00:29:49,720 --> 00:29:52,000 Yes. Terrible, terrible, it was. 493 00:29:52,000 --> 00:29:56,240 And people maybe getting to hear about this exotic place in 494 00:29:56,240 --> 00:30:01,040 the west, and coming on holiday on the trains and... 495 00:30:01,040 --> 00:30:04,360 To come and experience some of that exotic... Exoticness! 496 00:30:04,360 --> 00:30:07,640 So then it is exotic, you know, it is foreign, you know? 497 00:30:07,640 --> 00:30:09,960 I would love it if you could play me a tune. 498 00:30:09,960 --> 00:30:12,600 I'll play you a tune called The Bellisle March. 499 00:30:44,120 --> 00:30:48,360 Leaving Dolgellau behind, it's easy to find your way back onto 500 00:30:48,360 --> 00:30:52,000 the old railway line really, cos you just head towards the river. 501 00:30:52,000 --> 00:30:54,560 This is the River Mawddach. 502 00:30:54,560 --> 00:31:00,200 And unsurprisingly, this has now become the Mawddach trail. 503 00:31:00,200 --> 00:31:02,560 The thing that I find quite interesting is, how the 504 00:31:02,560 --> 00:31:08,160 modern roads tend to follow the same route as the old railway line. 505 00:31:08,160 --> 00:31:12,400 And the old railway line, for almost the entire length of this 506 00:31:12,400 --> 00:31:15,600 particular line, follow the route of the water. 507 00:31:16,800 --> 00:31:19,600 The water is the path of least resistance 508 00:31:19,600 --> 00:31:22,080 through all these valleys and hills. 509 00:31:22,080 --> 00:31:27,840 And now it takes me up to Penmaenpool on my way to Barmouth. 510 00:31:31,560 --> 00:31:35,600 As I continue to retrace the route taken by Victorian tourists, 511 00:31:35,600 --> 00:31:38,720 I share the excitement they would have felt. 512 00:31:38,720 --> 00:31:40,800 They came across this bridge, 513 00:31:40,800 --> 00:31:45,280 possibly about to experience the seaside for the very first time. 514 00:31:59,640 --> 00:32:02,800 I'm three quarters of the way along this lost railway line, 515 00:32:02,800 --> 00:32:06,000 between Ruabon and Barmouth on the Welsh coast. 516 00:32:06,000 --> 00:32:09,200 I'm walking the old track, which is now the Mawddach trail, 517 00:32:09,200 --> 00:32:11,720 and I'm approaching Penmaenpool Station. 518 00:32:11,720 --> 00:32:14,720 There's not much left of it, but it's not too difficult to 519 00:32:14,720 --> 00:32:17,200 work out where the platform used to exist. 520 00:32:18,520 --> 00:32:20,920 That's it, that's perfect. 521 00:32:20,920 --> 00:32:23,480 So you've got the bridge here, I mean that's just off, 522 00:32:23,480 --> 00:32:26,720 and all these hills are exactly the same, they've not changed. 523 00:32:26,720 --> 00:32:30,560 And yes, there's the signal box there that's hidden behind here. 524 00:32:30,560 --> 00:32:33,120 But I'm stood in the middle of a car park now. 525 00:32:33,120 --> 00:32:36,200 If I take myself back to the time of this photo, I'd have had 526 00:32:36,200 --> 00:32:39,320 a whacking great big steam engine coming right at me here, look. 527 00:32:39,320 --> 00:32:40,480 "Toot, toot!" 528 00:32:50,360 --> 00:32:53,920 I reckon this is Penmaenpool Station here. 529 00:32:53,920 --> 00:32:56,520 It looks like the back of a station, 530 00:32:56,520 --> 00:32:59,560 coming onto where the platforms would have been here. 531 00:32:59,560 --> 00:33:01,520 I'm pretty sure that is. 532 00:33:07,160 --> 00:33:10,160 Good afternoon. How we doing? Good, thank you. Beer? 533 00:33:10,160 --> 00:33:12,400 Yes, please. Thank you very much. Just one second. 534 00:33:12,400 --> 00:33:16,440 So that building just next door, is that the old station here? It is. 535 00:33:16,440 --> 00:33:18,240 Right at the bottom end, the two-storey one, 536 00:33:18,240 --> 00:33:19,960 used to be accommodation. 537 00:33:19,960 --> 00:33:24,000 The middle was the ticket office/parcel office, lost property. 538 00:33:24,000 --> 00:33:27,120 And this end was the waiting room. There's not much sign of it out here 539 00:33:27,120 --> 00:33:28,840 now. It's not railway traffic you get now. 540 00:33:28,840 --> 00:33:31,520 There's not much. We keep waiting, but we don't hear anything now. 541 00:33:31,520 --> 00:33:33,560 No more steam trains coming past your window. No. 542 00:33:33,560 --> 00:33:36,120 The signal's still there. But, yeah, it would have been great. 543 00:33:36,120 --> 00:33:38,800 Yeah, it would have been much nicer with the railway, I think. Yeah. 544 00:33:38,800 --> 00:33:40,080 I'm going to go and enjoy this. 545 00:33:40,080 --> 00:33:42,440 Thank you very much indeed. Good health. Cheers. Thank you. 546 00:33:50,800 --> 00:33:54,400 Even though this line was closed 53 years ago, 547 00:33:54,400 --> 00:33:57,280 some of the old structures have been put to good use. 548 00:34:02,520 --> 00:34:06,600 Rhys Gwynn works for the national parks, and has been responsible for 549 00:34:06,600 --> 00:34:09,960 re-purposing this old signal box for nature lovers. 550 00:34:09,960 --> 00:34:13,240 Rhys. Hello, Rob. How are you? 551 00:34:13,240 --> 00:34:16,000 Nice to meet you. OK, pleased to meet you. Welcome to the signal box. 552 00:34:16,000 --> 00:34:18,920 Thank you very much. Yeah. Yeah, there's not much that would tell you 553 00:34:18,920 --> 00:34:20,760 it's a signal box. It's still in the 554 00:34:20,760 --> 00:34:23,240 colours of the Great Western Railway, on the outside. Yeah. 555 00:34:23,240 --> 00:34:25,680 But apart from that, apart from the signal box, 556 00:34:25,680 --> 00:34:28,080 there's not an awful lot left. 557 00:34:28,080 --> 00:34:30,320 Why was the decision taken to re-purpose it as you have? 558 00:34:30,320 --> 00:34:34,320 It was empty for awhile, so I decided to basically off-load 559 00:34:34,320 --> 00:34:39,280 all the skulls and bits and bobs of animals that I had at home, 560 00:34:39,280 --> 00:34:41,520 and I thought, "Oh, I'll create an exhibition here." 561 00:34:41,520 --> 00:34:43,240 I mean, it is a fantastic route. 562 00:34:43,240 --> 00:34:47,520 And, I mean, the view that you've got out here is just spectacular. 563 00:34:47,520 --> 00:34:53,440 Would there be any particular effect on the nature here, 564 00:34:53,440 --> 00:34:56,680 because of the railway that used to be here? 565 00:34:56,680 --> 00:35:00,160 With the old steam trains, so much vacuum behind the train as it 566 00:35:00,160 --> 00:35:03,520 whizzes along, that it draws in seed behind it. 567 00:35:03,520 --> 00:35:06,640 So often you get a progression of a plant species down the line 568 00:35:06,640 --> 00:35:07,840 following the train. 569 00:35:07,840 --> 00:35:09,720 And I suppose the other aspect is that, 570 00:35:09,720 --> 00:35:12,880 although it looks very wooded now, there weren't any trees at all. 571 00:35:12,880 --> 00:35:16,960 But now, it's a bit of a haven for wildlife. 572 00:35:16,960 --> 00:35:21,400 Is this area of particular interest to bird watchers and naturalists? 573 00:35:21,400 --> 00:35:23,600 Well, it does draw people in. 574 00:35:23,600 --> 00:35:28,080 So the people we get in here, they're either bird enthusiasts 575 00:35:28,080 --> 00:35:30,960 or naturalists, or they're railway enthusiasts very often as well. 576 00:35:30,960 --> 00:35:34,440 Cos we had a lot of people coming in who remembered the trains. 577 00:35:34,440 --> 00:35:38,400 And in fact, one of our ex-seasonal wardens remembered coming 578 00:35:38,400 --> 00:35:43,640 here as a child to have his hair cut by the signalman in here. 579 00:35:43,640 --> 00:35:46,200 What? Whilst it was operating as a railway? Yes. 580 00:35:46,200 --> 00:35:48,400 This was an operating signal box? Yeah. Yeah. 581 00:35:48,400 --> 00:35:50,680 He'd come and get his hair cut? Come and get his hair cut. 582 00:35:50,680 --> 00:35:53,520 Well, as things were done in those days, yeah. I love that. 583 00:35:56,000 --> 00:35:58,280 All over the country there are many 584 00:35:58,280 --> 00:36:02,680 colourful stories relating to signal boxes just like this one. 585 00:36:02,680 --> 00:36:05,880 In 1948, there were over 10,000 of them, 586 00:36:05,880 --> 00:36:09,120 but sadly today, just under 500 are left. 587 00:36:10,400 --> 00:36:14,160 My journey from Ruabon to Barmouth is nearing an end. 588 00:36:14,160 --> 00:36:18,960 I'm rejoining the Mawddach trail for the last few miles to the coast. 589 00:36:18,960 --> 00:36:23,320 Here at Arthog, what's now a really quiet stretch of the estuary 590 00:36:23,320 --> 00:36:25,800 was once a hive of activity. 591 00:36:25,800 --> 00:36:27,680 Back in the late 1800s, 592 00:36:27,680 --> 00:36:32,320 a mini gold rush here saw around 500 men at its peak employed to 593 00:36:32,320 --> 00:36:37,720 search for this precious metal, and they did a pretty good job too. 594 00:36:37,720 --> 00:36:40,240 In today's money, an estimated 595 00:36:40,240 --> 00:36:44,560 60 million pounds' worth of gold was mined here. 596 00:36:44,560 --> 00:36:49,000 And because of its scarcity and difficulty of extraction, it's 597 00:36:49,000 --> 00:36:53,480 still thought of as one of the most sought-after golds in the world. 598 00:36:53,480 --> 00:36:58,160 Now, finally, after 55 miles by canal, canoe, 599 00:36:58,160 --> 00:37:03,000 on foot and on two glorious heritage railway lines, I can feel the 600 00:37:03,000 --> 00:37:06,120 landscape opening up as I approach the west coast of Wales. 601 00:37:11,200 --> 00:37:12,960 It's the end of the line. 602 00:37:14,200 --> 00:37:16,880 All I need to do now is head across 603 00:37:16,880 --> 00:37:19,800 the estuary north into Barmouth itself. 604 00:37:19,800 --> 00:37:22,560 And the reason I can do that is because of this. 605 00:37:26,160 --> 00:37:27,600 The Barmouth Bridge. 606 00:37:30,280 --> 00:37:32,520 At just under 700m long, 607 00:37:32,520 --> 00:37:36,760 this remarkable structure is a masterpiece of engineering. 608 00:37:36,760 --> 00:37:40,800 It's survived 150 years of the sea lashing at its feet, 609 00:37:40,800 --> 00:37:45,280 two world wars, a stray naval mine, and an attack of marine 610 00:37:45,280 --> 00:37:49,800 woodworm, and it's still in use today, taking visitors right 611 00:37:49,800 --> 00:37:53,960 into the middle of town just as it did over 100 years ago. 612 00:37:56,200 --> 00:37:59,000 What I really love about this bridge is that 613 00:37:59,000 --> 00:38:02,600 it's almost entirely made out of timber. 614 00:38:02,600 --> 00:38:06,440 These handrails are made out of timber, this walkway is timber. 615 00:38:06,440 --> 00:38:09,200 And look here, even the beams that the rails themselves are 616 00:38:09,200 --> 00:38:12,560 bolted down to are all made out of timber. 617 00:38:12,560 --> 00:38:16,200 Now this is the longest timber bridge in Wales, 618 00:38:16,200 --> 00:38:19,440 and it's one of the oldest that's still in use in Britain. 619 00:38:20,520 --> 00:38:23,360 I'm quite excited to be coming across it. 620 00:38:23,360 --> 00:38:26,200 But I'm also excited to be here because... 621 00:38:26,200 --> 00:38:28,960 ..I'm almost at the seaside. 622 00:38:28,960 --> 00:38:33,320 But I reckon the excitement I've got here now is only a fraction 623 00:38:33,320 --> 00:38:37,560 of the excitement that some of those working class Victorian 624 00:38:37,560 --> 00:38:41,440 families, making their way over here from England, 625 00:38:41,440 --> 00:38:45,680 might have been feeling as they came across this bridge, 626 00:38:45,680 --> 00:38:50,520 possibly about to experience the seaside for the very first time. 627 00:38:56,480 --> 00:39:00,320 Barmouth grew up around its ship building and fishing industries. 628 00:39:00,320 --> 00:39:02,520 But since the arrival of the railways, 629 00:39:02,520 --> 00:39:06,160 guest houses and hotels sprung up everywhere to cater for the 630 00:39:06,160 --> 00:39:10,000 thousands of visitors that came from far and wide. 631 00:39:10,000 --> 00:39:13,600 It's easy to see why early Victorian tourists were attracted to 632 00:39:13,600 --> 00:39:16,920 this place, but I wonder WHO they were. 633 00:39:16,920 --> 00:39:19,200 To find out more, I've come to speak to Janet Griffith 634 00:39:19,200 --> 00:39:21,120 here at the Sailors' Institute. 635 00:39:22,880 --> 00:39:27,120 Barmouth was well known for tourism and though recently I heard 636 00:39:27,120 --> 00:39:32,200 that Barmouth was known, not for bed and breakfast, but for people 637 00:39:32,200 --> 00:39:36,080 actually coming and renting places even then. 638 00:39:36,080 --> 00:39:39,720 And the lady of the house would cook the food for them. 639 00:39:39,720 --> 00:39:42,400 And in a 1911 census, 640 00:39:42,400 --> 00:39:49,000 there was 130 ladies' boarding houses that were registered. 641 00:39:49,000 --> 00:39:51,040 So they wanted to come on long holidays? 642 00:39:51,040 --> 00:39:53,600 Oh, yes, they absolutely came on long holidays. 643 00:39:53,600 --> 00:39:56,280 A lot would come for four weeks. 644 00:39:56,280 --> 00:39:58,200 They would come as a family, 645 00:39:58,200 --> 00:40:03,080 the husband would then go back by rail for work and then come 646 00:40:03,080 --> 00:40:07,440 back at weekends, and that's how they used the train an awful lot. 647 00:40:07,440 --> 00:40:10,760 And of course, they used to put on special trains as well from the 648 00:40:10,760 --> 00:40:15,960 Midlands especially. Unfortunately, Mr Beeching is the one who cut that. 649 00:40:15,960 --> 00:40:19,760 Sadly. Actually, I used to use that railway. Did you? 650 00:40:19,760 --> 00:40:24,880 Yes, because I lived in Birmingham and my parents lived here. 651 00:40:24,880 --> 00:40:27,680 I was wondering if you could help me understand where the majority of 652 00:40:27,680 --> 00:40:29,920 those tourists might have been coming from? 653 00:40:29,920 --> 00:40:34,000 Yes, I've got this photocopy of all the boarding houses 654 00:40:34,000 --> 00:40:37,720 that were in the area at the time. There's some more. 655 00:40:37,720 --> 00:40:43,280 All these people on this date were visiting Barmouth. 656 00:40:43,280 --> 00:40:48,760 About 40% of the people who came here as visitors were from 657 00:40:48,760 --> 00:40:54,200 the Midlands, but there was an equal number of 40% that came from 658 00:40:54,200 --> 00:40:57,160 the North West, which was Liverpool and Manchester. 659 00:40:57,160 --> 00:41:00,160 80% were from the Midlands and the North West. 660 00:41:00,160 --> 00:41:05,440 So, I mean, in a way fairly local as we might see it today, local. 661 00:41:05,440 --> 00:41:07,480 Back then, not at all local. 662 00:41:07,480 --> 00:41:10,560 Well, listen, I'm going to go and, well, 663 00:41:10,560 --> 00:41:13,200 experience what a lot of these guys came here for. 664 00:41:13,200 --> 00:41:15,800 I'm going to head to the beach, finish off my journey. 665 00:41:22,480 --> 00:41:26,280 Seeing the effect the railways had on people and communities 666 00:41:26,280 --> 00:41:30,000 here has been a journey of discovery for me. 667 00:41:30,000 --> 00:41:34,040 Despite the Beeching cuts of the 1960s and the closure of this 668 00:41:34,040 --> 00:41:38,200 line, there's still a yearning for the glorious age of steam. 669 00:41:40,400 --> 00:41:45,240 What confirms this for me is that out of the 189 stations in 670 00:41:45,240 --> 00:41:49,400 Wales that were closed, 32 have since reopened. 671 00:41:55,920 --> 00:41:59,520 For centuries, tourists and holiday-makers have been making 672 00:41:59,520 --> 00:42:03,240 their way through North Wales here to Barmouth, 673 00:42:03,240 --> 00:42:08,160 drawn by the allure of the dramatic mountainous landscapes inland, 674 00:42:08,160 --> 00:42:12,720 and the vast expansive beaches here on the coast. 675 00:42:13,880 --> 00:42:18,280 But it was the railways coming here that opened up all of this to 676 00:42:18,280 --> 00:42:22,320 all people, making it an affordable journey. 677 00:42:22,320 --> 00:42:25,440 Without the railways, I doubt that Barmouth, 678 00:42:25,440 --> 00:42:28,680 nor the scenic route here from Ruabon, 679 00:42:28,680 --> 00:42:33,360 would ever have become the hotbed for tourism that it still is today. 680 00:42:45,520 --> 00:42:47,120 Subtitles by Red Bee Media