1 00:00:04,900 --> 00:00:09,580 Britain's railways were once the envy of the world. 2 00:00:09,580 --> 00:00:15,020 You could get a train from almost anywhere to almost anywhere else. 3 00:00:16,980 --> 00:00:21,420 They were the network that supported an industrial superpower. 4 00:00:21,420 --> 00:00:22,660 Here we go. 5 00:00:22,660 --> 00:00:23,780 EXPLOSION 6 00:00:25,820 --> 00:00:27,860 I've never seen anything like that. 7 00:00:27,860 --> 00:00:32,740 But today, 4,000 stations and 8 00:00:32,740 --> 00:00:35,860 8,000 miles of track lie silent. 9 00:00:35,860 --> 00:00:38,060 This station feels truly lost. 10 00:00:41,220 --> 00:00:45,660 So I'm setting off to discover more of Britain's lost railways. 11 00:00:47,580 --> 00:00:50,420 Wow. This is something else. 12 00:00:52,180 --> 00:00:53,380 They tell a story... 13 00:00:53,380 --> 00:00:54,420 Look at this! 14 00:00:54,420 --> 00:00:56,060 ..of how we once lived... 15 00:00:56,060 --> 00:00:58,220 Oh, I love that. 16 00:00:58,220 --> 00:01:01,300 ..and how we once worked. 17 00:01:01,300 --> 00:01:03,980 This is one heck of a piece of engineering. 18 00:01:03,980 --> 00:01:08,580 And they help reveal how our world has changed today. 19 00:01:08,580 --> 00:01:10,060 Yes! 20 00:01:18,980 --> 00:01:21,980 This time I'm in Derbyshire. 21 00:01:21,980 --> 00:01:23,780 Matlock to be precise. 22 00:01:25,300 --> 00:01:28,420 The start point of Peak Rail. 23 00:01:28,420 --> 00:01:32,060 Four miles of steam heritage railway. 24 00:01:32,060 --> 00:01:35,340 And all that's left of a quite remarkable railway line. 25 00:01:46,220 --> 00:01:50,020 I've come to explore perhaps the most unlikely and outrageous 26 00:01:50,020 --> 00:01:52,740 railway line ever built in Britain. 27 00:01:52,740 --> 00:01:56,820 They had to tackle some of the most challenging terrain imaginable. 28 00:01:56,820 --> 00:02:00,300 And this wasn't just some small rural branch line. 29 00:02:00,300 --> 00:02:05,340 This was the express route between London and Manchester! 30 00:02:05,340 --> 00:02:09,700 This is the story of an ambitious railway company that built a main 31 00:02:09,700 --> 00:02:13,420 line through the heart of what's now the Peak District National Park. 32 00:02:15,180 --> 00:02:16,420 From Matlock, 33 00:02:16,420 --> 00:02:19,940 I'll be following a line that was tough to design and 34 00:02:19,940 --> 00:02:22,900 even tougher to complete, all the way to Buxton. 35 00:02:25,140 --> 00:02:29,660 But 50 years after its closure, the legacy of this railway remains 36 00:02:29,660 --> 00:02:34,540 etched into the Derbyshire landscape and it's become perhaps 37 00:02:34,540 --> 00:02:37,740 the most celebrated lost line in the country. 38 00:02:40,340 --> 00:02:43,780 Here we go. Just drop that in there. 39 00:02:43,780 --> 00:02:45,900 Woo! That's an inferno in there. 40 00:02:47,620 --> 00:02:50,180 How much coal will you go through on your journey here compared 41 00:02:50,180 --> 00:02:52,140 to what they might have been doing back in the day 42 00:02:52,140 --> 00:02:55,340 when they were running steam engines on this line? 43 00:02:55,340 --> 00:02:57,820 I think probably a fifth of what the real railway 44 00:02:57,820 --> 00:02:59,340 would have used. 45 00:02:59,340 --> 00:03:02,420 They were bigger engines, they were heavier trains, 46 00:03:02,420 --> 00:03:04,620 and they had a much more aggressive timetable. 47 00:03:04,620 --> 00:03:07,900 So the speeds that they would go at would be higher than we do. 48 00:03:09,340 --> 00:03:10,940 Speedy or not, 49 00:03:10,940 --> 00:03:16,180 since 1997, Peak Rail has brought steam back to this short section 50 00:03:16,180 --> 00:03:17,180 of my route. 51 00:03:18,220 --> 00:03:20,460 WHISTLE BLASTS 52 00:03:21,620 --> 00:03:25,380 It brings me to the edge of the Peak District National Park 53 00:03:25,380 --> 00:03:28,460 and a very important spot for the company that first built 54 00:03:28,460 --> 00:03:31,100 this line over 150 years ago. 55 00:03:36,220 --> 00:03:39,700 Rowsley South Station is where I'm meeting Peak Rail's 56 00:03:39,700 --> 00:03:41,580 project director, Paul Tomlinson. 57 00:03:42,820 --> 00:03:44,180 Oh, hello. Hi, Rob. 58 00:03:44,180 --> 00:03:45,460 Pleased to meet you. 59 00:03:45,460 --> 00:03:47,660 And welcome to Peak Rail. I mean, it's popular. 60 00:03:47,660 --> 00:03:49,820 We have people getting on and off the carriages. 61 00:03:49,820 --> 00:03:50,980 Yes, absolutely. 62 00:03:50,980 --> 00:03:53,820 I mean, we carry something like 45,000 people a year 63 00:03:53,820 --> 00:03:56,740 and we have aspirations to do an awful lot better 64 00:03:56,740 --> 00:03:58,460 than that in the future. 65 00:03:59,580 --> 00:04:02,500 I'm stopping here because Rowsley South today 66 00:04:02,500 --> 00:04:05,340 is a railway treasure trove, 67 00:04:05,340 --> 00:04:10,220 and Paul is an expert in the whole history of this line. 68 00:04:10,220 --> 00:04:15,140 This is a Class 25 locomotive diesel electric. 69 00:04:15,140 --> 00:04:19,660 It's of a type that was starting to appear in some numbers 70 00:04:19,660 --> 00:04:24,020 on this line around the time of its closure. Lovingly restored, I'd say. 71 00:04:24,020 --> 00:04:27,380 So, yes, they've made a superb job of it. 72 00:04:27,380 --> 00:04:29,100 For over a century, 73 00:04:29,100 --> 00:04:33,820 this was the locomotive depot of the Midland Railway Company. 74 00:04:33,820 --> 00:04:38,060 On that very same spot today is Peak Rail's own engine shed. 75 00:04:39,140 --> 00:04:40,980 This is the centre of our empire. 76 00:04:40,980 --> 00:04:42,700 This is the workshops. 77 00:04:42,700 --> 00:04:44,660 This is lovely, Paul. This is what I want to see. 78 00:04:44,660 --> 00:04:47,620 It smells good in here as well. It most definitely does. 79 00:04:47,620 --> 00:04:49,820 Well, tell me a bit about the history of this line. 80 00:04:49,820 --> 00:04:51,740 It's not straightforward, is it? 81 00:04:51,740 --> 00:04:55,140 Well, basically, it comes down to the rivalry between the 82 00:04:55,140 --> 00:04:58,100 Midland Railway and the London and North Western Railway. 83 00:04:58,100 --> 00:05:00,860 So this was built by the Midland Railway. Indeed it was. 84 00:05:00,860 --> 00:05:03,420 And the Midland were determined to get a main line through 85 00:05:03,420 --> 00:05:05,420 from London to Manchester. 86 00:05:05,420 --> 00:05:08,820 The London North Western had already done it, but the Midland, well, 87 00:05:08,820 --> 00:05:11,020 they were determined to match them. 88 00:05:11,020 --> 00:05:15,260 And that meant coming through the Peak District. 89 00:05:15,260 --> 00:05:19,300 By the mid 19th century, the London and North Western controlled a route 90 00:05:19,300 --> 00:05:22,380 from London Euston to Manchester. 91 00:05:22,380 --> 00:05:25,340 But with their headquarters in Derbyshire, the Midlands 92 00:05:25,340 --> 00:05:28,300 set their sights on a route that would connect Manchester 93 00:05:28,300 --> 00:05:30,620 with London St Pancras. 94 00:05:30,620 --> 00:05:33,340 But it wasn't for the faint-hearted. 95 00:05:33,340 --> 00:05:36,500 When you look at the landscape and you see it on a map, 96 00:05:36,500 --> 00:05:40,740 you see that you've got river valleys, steep river valleys, 97 00:05:40,740 --> 00:05:43,140 and the railway was kind of crisscrossing all of that. 98 00:05:43,140 --> 00:05:46,260 Yes, it was. And in the northern part of the line, 99 00:05:46,260 --> 00:05:50,660 there is this six-mile stretch where you have six tunnels 100 00:05:50,660 --> 00:05:53,340 and bridges in a very short space. 101 00:05:53,340 --> 00:05:56,820 Six bridges, six tunnels over a six-mile stretch of track? 102 00:05:56,820 --> 00:05:59,020 Some of the tunnels are very short, 103 00:05:59,020 --> 00:06:02,420 but that doesn't mean that they're any less demanding to build. 104 00:06:02,420 --> 00:06:05,100 Does that tell you a little bit about just how profitable 105 00:06:05,100 --> 00:06:06,820 the railways could have been at that time? 106 00:06:06,820 --> 00:06:07,980 Oh, absolutely. 107 00:06:07,980 --> 00:06:11,140 It was all about money, because at the end of the day, 108 00:06:11,140 --> 00:06:14,060 the people who were building and operating these railways 109 00:06:14,060 --> 00:06:16,100 were not railway enthusiasts. 110 00:06:16,100 --> 00:06:18,420 They were hard-nosed businessmen. 111 00:06:18,420 --> 00:06:20,620 But it has given me what I'm assuming is going 112 00:06:20,620 --> 00:06:23,340 to be a very enjoyable walk, though, Paul. Most definitely. 113 00:06:23,340 --> 00:06:25,140 It is beautiful scenery, 114 00:06:25,140 --> 00:06:28,740 even if - as a Derbyshire person - I say so myself, and I'm sure 115 00:06:28,740 --> 00:06:30,260 you'll really enjoy it. 116 00:06:30,260 --> 00:06:34,420 But before I explore the old Midland line at ground level... 117 00:06:37,420 --> 00:06:38,620 ..I've had an idea. 118 00:06:39,900 --> 00:06:42,820 Hey. Can I jump in? 119 00:06:42,820 --> 00:06:48,140 To see just what those Victorian railway engineers were facing, 120 00:06:48,140 --> 00:06:49,700 I'm taking to the air. 121 00:06:50,780 --> 00:06:51,780 We're away. 122 00:06:53,380 --> 00:06:55,100 Ooh, lovely. 123 00:06:57,460 --> 00:07:01,140 So we're going to be flying around 600 or 700 feet above ground level, 124 00:07:01,140 --> 00:07:03,060 which puts us somewhere in the region of 125 00:07:03,060 --> 00:07:05,340 1,800 feet above sea level. 126 00:07:05,340 --> 00:07:08,820 Pilot Sean Humphrey has been getting a bird's-eye view of the 127 00:07:08,820 --> 00:07:12,380 Peak District landscape for the past ten years. 128 00:07:12,380 --> 00:07:14,380 It is just spectacular up here. 129 00:07:16,380 --> 00:07:19,180 The area to our left-hand side over there is commonly known 130 00:07:19,180 --> 00:07:20,540 as the White Peak area. 131 00:07:20,540 --> 00:07:23,580 Covers most of the area pretty much from where we are down to the bottom 132 00:07:23,580 --> 00:07:25,780 edge of the Peak District, just the north of Derby. 133 00:07:25,780 --> 00:07:28,020 And White Peak - why was it known as White Peak? 134 00:07:28,020 --> 00:07:31,180 It's known as the White Peak area predominantly for all the limestone. 135 00:07:31,180 --> 00:07:33,940 Because the landscape here, then, what you get is this almost flat 136 00:07:33,940 --> 00:07:37,300 plain of just beautiful, lush greenery in these fields 137 00:07:37,300 --> 00:07:40,940 and then these really quite deep valleys. Yeah. 138 00:07:40,940 --> 00:07:43,460 Probably 150 to 200-foot deep in some places. 139 00:07:43,460 --> 00:07:47,700 It makes for really dramatic scenery. It does. 140 00:07:47,700 --> 00:07:53,420 The River Wye, below us now, cut one valley through the limestone, 141 00:07:53,420 --> 00:07:56,700 and it was chosen by the Midland Railway as their route across 142 00:07:56,700 --> 00:07:58,740 the White Peak. 143 00:07:58,740 --> 00:08:00,140 There it is. Look. 144 00:08:00,140 --> 00:08:03,860 This beautiful juxtaposition of nature with water carving out 145 00:08:03,860 --> 00:08:06,700 this squiggly path through. And the railway trying to keep 146 00:08:06,700 --> 00:08:09,020 it as straight as possible for obvious reasons. 147 00:08:09,020 --> 00:08:11,660 It's such a contrast between the two. 148 00:08:11,660 --> 00:08:15,180 Just goes to show almost how ludicrous this line was to try 149 00:08:15,180 --> 00:08:18,100 and build a railway line through this kind of landscape here. 150 00:08:18,100 --> 00:08:19,780 Very much so. 151 00:08:19,780 --> 00:08:23,060 But the railway's first challenge was to get permission to 152 00:08:23,060 --> 00:08:24,500 build here at all. 153 00:08:25,740 --> 00:08:28,300 We're coming up on Chatsworth House now the left-hand side. 154 00:08:28,300 --> 00:08:30,500 Unmistakable, really. Look at that. 155 00:08:30,500 --> 00:08:32,540 One of the most famous country houses in Britain. 156 00:08:32,540 --> 00:08:35,100 The Duke of Derbyshire was an avid supporter of the railways, 157 00:08:35,100 --> 00:08:37,660 but he didn't want any of the railways coming through his land. 158 00:08:37,660 --> 00:08:38,940 "Not in my back yard." 159 00:08:38,940 --> 00:08:41,060 Nope. "Not in my back yard." Nimbyism at its best. 160 00:08:43,660 --> 00:08:46,460 Luckily, the Duke of Devonshire's neighbour 161 00:08:46,460 --> 00:08:48,740 was a little more welcoming. 162 00:08:48,740 --> 00:08:50,940 This is Haddon Hall? It is. 163 00:08:50,940 --> 00:08:53,180 The Duke of Rutland allowed the railway to be built, 164 00:08:53,180 --> 00:08:56,580 but wanted to use tunnels so that he couldn't see the smoke and steam 165 00:08:56,580 --> 00:08:58,220 going through his land. 166 00:09:00,500 --> 00:09:03,940 The tunnel actually passes within 100 metres of the 167 00:09:03,940 --> 00:09:05,860 Duke of Rutland's home. 168 00:09:05,860 --> 00:09:08,060 Just trying to figure out where it might have gone. 169 00:09:08,060 --> 00:09:11,020 I can't see any sign of a railway tunnel going through. 170 00:09:11,020 --> 00:09:12,340 And that's exactly the point. 171 00:09:12,340 --> 00:09:15,660 He allowed the railway to be built, but using tunnels so he couldn't see 172 00:09:15,660 --> 00:09:18,420 the smoke and the steam. He obviously did a very good job. 173 00:09:19,940 --> 00:09:21,140 Coming up... 174 00:09:21,140 --> 00:09:23,420 First beast is in the pen. 175 00:09:23,420 --> 00:09:27,060 ..I see how the railway changed Bakewell's original industry. 176 00:09:29,260 --> 00:09:30,580 And I'm on two wheels... 177 00:09:30,580 --> 00:09:31,980 Woo! 178 00:09:31,980 --> 00:09:34,780 ..for the country's prettiest viaduct. 179 00:09:34,780 --> 00:09:37,100 Oh, yeah. What a spot. 180 00:09:42,900 --> 00:09:45,860 OK, Rob, so I'm now going to drop you off at the Bakewell Showground 181 00:09:45,860 --> 00:09:49,100 just to the south of the town of Bakewell. 182 00:09:49,100 --> 00:09:53,540 I'm in Derbyshire, exploring a very dramatic railway that once 183 00:09:53,540 --> 00:09:56,340 crossed the heart of the Peak District. 184 00:09:57,660 --> 00:10:00,140 What a beautiful part of the country. 185 00:10:01,500 --> 00:10:02,620 Touchdown. 186 00:10:02,620 --> 00:10:05,020 That was wonderful. 187 00:10:05,020 --> 00:10:08,300 Sean's brought me to the town of Bakewell, 188 00:10:08,300 --> 00:10:12,260 the only significant town inside the Peak District. 189 00:10:12,260 --> 00:10:16,460 And back in the day, the only major town on my lost railway routes 190 00:10:16,460 --> 00:10:18,380 between Matlock and Buxton. 191 00:10:21,300 --> 00:10:25,300 Bakewell today is an absolute hub for the national park. 192 00:10:27,100 --> 00:10:31,700 But that's just the very latest chapter in Bakewell's long history. 193 00:10:33,300 --> 00:10:37,140 The railway reached Bakewell in 1862, but the main aim 194 00:10:37,140 --> 00:10:40,220 of this line was always to whisk passengers straight 195 00:10:40,220 --> 00:10:43,940 through this region to get to Manchester or to London. 196 00:10:43,940 --> 00:10:47,860 So how much of an impact did this railway line have on towns 197 00:10:47,860 --> 00:10:49,380 like this? 198 00:10:49,380 --> 00:10:51,260 160 years ago, 199 00:10:51,260 --> 00:10:54,940 Blackwell's main industry was farming. 200 00:10:54,940 --> 00:10:58,580 And despite the rise of tourism and the loss of the railway, 201 00:10:58,580 --> 00:11:00,380 farming still rules here. 202 00:11:02,660 --> 00:11:06,340 Today is Monday, and that means market day. 203 00:11:07,780 --> 00:11:11,100 But this market isn't about fruit and veg. 204 00:11:14,700 --> 00:11:16,940 All right, here we go. 205 00:11:16,940 --> 00:11:18,740 First beast is in the pen. 206 00:11:20,420 --> 00:11:23,700 MAN QUICKLY AUCTIONING 207 00:11:27,620 --> 00:11:29,380 Sold! 208 00:11:29,380 --> 00:11:33,460 I don't know how much that sold for, but it sounds like it was sold. 209 00:11:33,460 --> 00:11:38,540 Trading like this has been going on in Bakewell for hundreds of years. 210 00:11:38,540 --> 00:11:40,660 And not just cows, either. 211 00:11:45,020 --> 00:11:50,060 But to find out what impact having a railway made here, I'm meeting 212 00:11:50,060 --> 00:11:53,580 someone who's Bakewell through and through. 213 00:11:53,580 --> 00:11:55,260 Janet, hello. Hello, Rob. 214 00:11:55,260 --> 00:11:57,140 Nice to meet you. Very nice to meet you. 215 00:11:58,500 --> 00:12:01,180 That's an impressive operation you've got going on in there. 216 00:12:01,180 --> 00:12:02,540 I wish it WAS mine. 217 00:12:03,660 --> 00:12:05,500 Yes, it is very impressive. 218 00:12:06,580 --> 00:12:10,580 Janet Bailey is the manager of Bakewell's Agricultural Society, 219 00:12:10,580 --> 00:12:14,380 now celebrating its 200th birthday. 220 00:12:14,380 --> 00:12:17,580 How important was the arrival of the railway into Bakewell? 221 00:12:17,580 --> 00:12:19,060 Vastly important. 222 00:12:19,060 --> 00:12:21,020 And it left a great big hole when it went. 223 00:12:21,020 --> 00:12:24,020 You can imagine farmers, for instance, they could transport 224 00:12:24,020 --> 00:12:26,220 stock and take their stock to market on the train. 225 00:12:26,220 --> 00:12:29,740 Lots of the farmers relied on nearby railway lines to get their milk 226 00:12:29,740 --> 00:12:31,540 to wherever it was going. 227 00:12:32,860 --> 00:12:36,020 Throughout the whole railway age - and ever since - 228 00:12:36,020 --> 00:12:41,620 Bakewell's centrepiece event has been the annual agricultural show. 229 00:12:41,620 --> 00:12:43,980 Do you look forward to it every year? Ah, absolutely. 230 00:12:43,980 --> 00:12:46,500 I mean, I'm a Bakewell girl. 231 00:12:46,500 --> 00:12:49,340 Been associated with the show since I was that big. 232 00:12:49,340 --> 00:12:52,220 But it was the arrival of the Midland Railway that turned 233 00:12:52,220 --> 00:12:55,820 the show from a local event into a rural festival. 234 00:12:57,060 --> 00:12:58,220 I can show you this. 235 00:12:58,220 --> 00:13:01,820 This is a history book of the Bakewell Show and there you can see 236 00:13:01,820 --> 00:13:04,620 cheapday excursion tickets to the Bakewell Show 1958. 237 00:13:04,620 --> 00:13:07,420 This is what this is - an advert by British Railways. Exactly. 238 00:13:07,420 --> 00:13:09,900 And there's another one here which has got the timetable 239 00:13:09,900 --> 00:13:12,660 to and from Bakewell to various places like Matlock and... 240 00:13:12,660 --> 00:13:16,340 Look here, so they're offering to bring in people from all stations 241 00:13:16,340 --> 00:13:18,700 within a rail distance of 60 miles around. 242 00:13:18,700 --> 00:13:20,900 Yeah. That's a huge area to cover. 243 00:13:20,900 --> 00:13:24,100 So you're getting all these people in, and would these be extra special 244 00:13:24,100 --> 00:13:27,220 trains they'd put on? Extra special trains just for Bakewell Show. 245 00:13:27,220 --> 00:13:29,580 Look at that - "Travel in rail comfort." 246 00:13:29,580 --> 00:13:33,300 So this would have been bringing in thousands of people. 247 00:13:33,300 --> 00:13:36,100 And then, of course, you had the trains which would bring 248 00:13:36,100 --> 00:13:39,340 the livestock for the farmers to show, etc... 249 00:13:39,340 --> 00:13:42,820 So, yeah, the railway was important to us. Yeah. 250 00:13:44,860 --> 00:13:49,300 So before I leave Bakewell, I need to find where the Midland Railway 251 00:13:49,300 --> 00:13:52,620 once brought thousands of people into the town. 252 00:13:54,940 --> 00:13:56,620 OK. Here we are. 253 00:13:56,620 --> 00:13:59,780 This is the old station building at Bakewell. 254 00:14:00,900 --> 00:14:06,740 From 1862, it was possible to reach here by rail from London. 255 00:14:06,740 --> 00:14:11,060 Now this old photo here was taken just before this line closed. 256 00:14:11,060 --> 00:14:14,460 You can still see exactly where we are. 257 00:14:14,460 --> 00:14:18,220 I mean, the main difference is the track has all been taken up. 258 00:14:18,220 --> 00:14:20,940 This canopy is now gone. 259 00:14:20,940 --> 00:14:24,620 But you can see on the building where that was with these triangular 260 00:14:24,620 --> 00:14:26,820 zigzags across the top. 261 00:14:26,820 --> 00:14:30,020 That's the stone arch bridge in the background back there. 262 00:14:30,020 --> 00:14:31,620 That's still there. 263 00:14:31,620 --> 00:14:36,020 What, 50-odd years ago, if I stood here now, I'd have been in danger 264 00:14:36,020 --> 00:14:38,220 of being hit by a train. 265 00:14:38,220 --> 00:14:41,580 This station had been around for five years before the Midland 266 00:14:41,580 --> 00:14:45,500 finally completed their line north to Manchester. 267 00:14:45,500 --> 00:14:50,980 But from the beginning, Bakewell had some first-class waiting rooms. 268 00:14:50,980 --> 00:14:54,100 Now I'm looking for something very specific here. 269 00:14:55,820 --> 00:14:57,860 I think that must be it. 270 00:14:57,860 --> 00:15:00,660 This is the crest of the Duke of Rutland. 271 00:15:00,660 --> 00:15:04,540 Now the Duke may have been vehemently opposed to seeing trains 272 00:15:04,540 --> 00:15:08,940 crossing his land, but I'm told he was perfectly happy to get 273 00:15:08,940 --> 00:15:11,620 on and off of those trains from here. 274 00:15:11,620 --> 00:15:15,660 This railway and this station gave him easy access 275 00:15:15,660 --> 00:15:17,020 straight to London. 276 00:15:22,060 --> 00:15:27,340 As for me, though, I'm heading north, where the old line has become one 277 00:15:27,340 --> 00:15:30,420 of the most well-trodden routes in the area. 278 00:15:32,620 --> 00:15:36,820 This is now a shining example of how a disused railway 279 00:15:36,820 --> 00:15:39,740 can be reborn into something new. 280 00:15:39,740 --> 00:15:42,340 There's one thing you can guarantee about an old railway - 281 00:15:42,340 --> 00:15:44,140 it's going to be nice and flat. 282 00:15:44,140 --> 00:15:49,860 And so the old Midland line has become a very easy way to explore 283 00:15:49,860 --> 00:15:52,140 the rugged landscape of the Peaks. 284 00:15:54,820 --> 00:15:59,900 8½ miles of my route is now called the Monsal Trail - 285 00:15:59,900 --> 00:16:05,060 perfect for walkers, or in my case today, for cyclists. 286 00:16:05,060 --> 00:16:07,580 Hi, Rob. How are you doing? Good, thank you. 287 00:16:07,580 --> 00:16:10,340 Good day for a little cycling. It's fantastic. 288 00:16:10,340 --> 00:16:13,820 Trail ranger Dave Watts has been developing the old railway's 289 00:16:13,820 --> 00:16:16,180 new purpose for 29 years. 290 00:16:18,420 --> 00:16:20,740 How popular is the Monsal trail here? 291 00:16:20,740 --> 00:16:23,300 It is extremely popular. You're probably looking at 292 00:16:23,300 --> 00:16:26,780 over 320,000 visitors annually. 293 00:16:26,780 --> 00:16:29,700 Are you really? To this trail alone. Huge numbers. 294 00:16:29,700 --> 00:16:32,980 That must be a massive win for you guys for the national park. 295 00:16:32,980 --> 00:16:35,460 It is. And what a great way to come and visit and explore 296 00:16:35,460 --> 00:16:37,100 the Peak District. Exactly. 297 00:16:37,100 --> 00:16:39,780 If you're a walker or a cyclist, or even a horse rider, 298 00:16:39,780 --> 00:16:41,660 it is extremely safe. Yes. 299 00:16:41,660 --> 00:16:44,500 For cyclists, it's a great way for families to bring 300 00:16:44,500 --> 00:16:45,740 their kids into cycling. 301 00:16:45,740 --> 00:16:49,500 If you're less able, it's flat for wheelchair users, pushing a baby 302 00:16:49,500 --> 00:16:51,820 in a buggy. It's a dream, isn't it? It's so accessible. 303 00:16:51,820 --> 00:16:54,380 That's the beauty of the railway. They're always nice and flat. 304 00:16:54,380 --> 00:16:56,220 They've done the hard work. Exactly. 305 00:16:57,340 --> 00:16:59,100 Now we've come to Great Longstone Station. 306 00:16:59,100 --> 00:17:00,380 Ah-ha. Yes. 307 00:17:00,380 --> 00:17:01,980 A little bit of infrastructure here. 308 00:17:01,980 --> 00:17:05,580 Yeah. And you see how nature's actually taken over these platforms. 309 00:17:05,580 --> 00:17:09,420 And just to our left, which looks like a grand house, was the private 310 00:17:09,420 --> 00:17:12,020 access for a Mr Marples - 311 00:17:12,020 --> 00:17:15,540 a Sheffield lawyer, Midland Railway director - 312 00:17:15,540 --> 00:17:18,660 and this was for him to have his own private access-cum-waiting room. 313 00:17:18,660 --> 00:17:20,100 His own private access? 314 00:17:20,100 --> 00:17:22,580 So your normal punters would be coming through the station. 315 00:17:22,580 --> 00:17:26,220 Yeah, normal people from Great Longstone, Little Longstone. 316 00:17:26,220 --> 00:17:30,020 But what an ornate station it was. It is a beautiful station. 317 00:17:30,020 --> 00:17:34,260 And this private waiting room here is not too shabby either, is it? 318 00:17:34,260 --> 00:17:38,060 No. Honestly, these trees wouldn't have obscured the building itself. 319 00:17:38,060 --> 00:17:39,620 All this would've been open. 320 00:17:39,620 --> 00:17:41,060 Lovely gardens here probably. 321 00:17:41,060 --> 00:17:43,500 And his visitors could disembark the train, 322 00:17:43,500 --> 00:17:46,300 access Mr Marples' property... Goodness me. 323 00:17:46,300 --> 00:17:50,900 ..and it's thought the train would stop at the station and then pull 324 00:17:50,900 --> 00:17:54,180 forward to accommodate Mr Marples' guests. 325 00:17:56,020 --> 00:17:59,060 I mean, that is proper influence and clout, isn't it? 326 00:17:59,060 --> 00:18:00,940 When you can get a train company to do that. 327 00:18:00,940 --> 00:18:04,260 Mind you, if you're a director of that train company. Yeah. 328 00:18:04,260 --> 00:18:06,100 The world's your Oyster. 329 00:18:06,100 --> 00:18:07,700 Times have changed, though. 330 00:18:07,700 --> 00:18:09,460 Yeah, try getting that these days. 331 00:18:09,460 --> 00:18:10,460 Good luck! 332 00:18:12,940 --> 00:18:14,620 Leaving Great Longstone, 333 00:18:14,620 --> 00:18:18,860 the geology of the Peak District begins to change as we reach 334 00:18:18,860 --> 00:18:23,100 the engineering highlights of the old railway line. 335 00:18:23,100 --> 00:18:25,460 We're now entering Headstone Cutting. 336 00:18:25,460 --> 00:18:27,180 It's all change here, isn't it? 337 00:18:27,180 --> 00:18:29,460 All of sudden you get those views out across. Yeah. 338 00:18:29,460 --> 00:18:32,300 So now we're coming to a limestone area of the Peak District. 339 00:18:32,300 --> 00:18:35,020 Here we go. Great slabs of limestone here. 340 00:18:35,020 --> 00:18:37,060 Look how deep this cutting gets. 341 00:18:37,060 --> 00:18:39,780 For much of the past 50 years, 342 00:18:39,780 --> 00:18:43,060 this cutting has been closed off to the public. 343 00:18:43,060 --> 00:18:46,220 A lost world from the days of the railway. 344 00:18:46,220 --> 00:18:47,860 This is amazing. 345 00:18:49,900 --> 00:18:52,140 Just think of the effort it would have taken to blast 346 00:18:52,140 --> 00:18:55,380 and dig your way through here for the railway, originally. 347 00:18:55,380 --> 00:18:56,580 Ah! Stunning. 348 00:18:57,820 --> 00:19:03,300 In 2011, Dave and his National Park colleagues set about clearing 349 00:19:03,300 --> 00:19:07,660 and reopening this cutting, along with what it leads to. 350 00:19:08,900 --> 00:19:12,060 This is the Headstone cutting because we're just entering here. 351 00:19:12,060 --> 00:19:13,980 This is Headstone Tunnel. Headstone Tunnel. 352 00:19:15,220 --> 00:19:17,700 It's enormous, this tunnel, Dave. It is. 353 00:19:17,700 --> 00:19:19,900 Woo! A good echo, too. 354 00:19:21,460 --> 00:19:25,820 Headstone Tunnel took the railway underneath Monsal Head, 355 00:19:25,820 --> 00:19:30,540 the high ground, which now gives the Monsal Trail its name. 356 00:19:30,540 --> 00:19:31,660 Let's have a look, then. 357 00:19:32,700 --> 00:19:34,060 How long is this tunnel? 358 00:19:34,060 --> 00:19:36,540 It's 505 metres. 359 00:19:36,540 --> 00:19:38,740 It's the longest of our four tunnels. 360 00:19:38,740 --> 00:19:41,460 It feels like you would've had a double track coming through. 361 00:19:41,460 --> 00:19:42,860 Yeah, a double track. 362 00:19:42,860 --> 00:19:45,060 These arches here, which you can see, 363 00:19:45,060 --> 00:19:48,060 were refuges for workers to escape a steam train coming down. 364 00:19:48,060 --> 00:19:50,860 Yes. If they're working down here and the train comes through. 365 00:19:50,860 --> 00:19:53,780 And you've got all this brick lining all the way across, as well, 366 00:19:53,780 --> 00:19:56,380 which is just beautiful, isn't it? Victorian brick. 367 00:19:56,380 --> 00:19:59,060 Blue brick, which is just facing the bedrock. 368 00:19:59,060 --> 00:20:00,860 It's not actually holding anything up. 369 00:20:00,860 --> 00:20:03,340 I mean, these railway engineers knew what they were doing. 370 00:20:03,340 --> 00:20:05,300 This was the best of the best. 371 00:20:05,300 --> 00:20:08,860 Yes. Yeah. They've left this fantastic legacy, really. 372 00:20:10,300 --> 00:20:14,180 But as railway legacies go, there are few better known 373 00:20:14,180 --> 00:20:16,940 than the one at the end of this tunnel. 374 00:20:22,420 --> 00:20:24,100 Ah, yes! 375 00:20:24,100 --> 00:20:25,220 What a spot. 376 00:20:26,420 --> 00:20:31,020 Standing tall over the River Wye is the Headstone Viaduct. 377 00:20:32,420 --> 00:20:33,420 Wow. 378 00:20:34,900 --> 00:20:36,780 We're straight out of the tunnel. 379 00:20:36,780 --> 00:20:39,860 One engineering feat onto another one here. 380 00:20:39,860 --> 00:20:42,380 Can you imagine when the trains were running through here come 381 00:20:42,380 --> 00:20:43,980 out of that tunnel... Yeah. 382 00:20:43,980 --> 00:20:46,580 ..and just come through to this view... From complete darkness, 383 00:20:46,580 --> 00:20:48,780 and then you get all of this. 384 00:20:48,780 --> 00:20:51,460 That is picture-perfect view, that is, isn't it? 385 00:20:51,460 --> 00:20:52,900 Absolutely stunning. 386 00:20:56,140 --> 00:20:58,780 When it was built, the Midland Railway was said 387 00:20:58,780 --> 00:21:00,620 to have ruined the valley. 388 00:21:02,700 --> 00:21:05,100 But that opinion didn't last for long. 389 00:21:07,060 --> 00:21:10,980 And Monsal Dale today, with its man-made addition, 390 00:21:10,980 --> 00:21:14,180 is one of the most famous sights in Derbyshire. 391 00:21:17,580 --> 00:21:18,660 Coming up... 392 00:21:18,660 --> 00:21:20,380 It's not exactly how we picture 393 00:21:20,380 --> 00:21:21,980 our national parks today. 394 00:21:21,980 --> 00:21:24,180 ..I find that the Peak District was once full 395 00:21:24,180 --> 00:21:26,100 of more than just railways. 396 00:21:26,100 --> 00:21:28,900 We're entering the kiln here now. We are. 397 00:21:28,900 --> 00:21:33,700 And I discover why one tiny valley needed a very big station. 398 00:21:33,700 --> 00:21:36,020 Nearly everybody descended on Millers Dale. 399 00:21:43,310 --> 00:21:46,750 In the heart of Derbyshire, I've been seeing how the old 400 00:21:46,750 --> 00:21:50,710 Midland Railway engineered its way through a famous landscape. 401 00:21:53,270 --> 00:21:57,790 In 1951, the Peak District became this country's very first national 402 00:21:57,790 --> 00:22:03,510 park, which means that for its first 17 years or so, you had an express 403 00:22:03,510 --> 00:22:06,590 railway thundering through the heart of it. 404 00:22:06,590 --> 00:22:10,550 It's not exactly how we picture our national parks today. 405 00:22:11,950 --> 00:22:15,870 But the truth is, the Midland Railway was just one chapter 406 00:22:15,870 --> 00:22:18,190 in a rich industrial history 407 00:22:18,190 --> 00:22:20,750 that's been part of the Peak's story for centuries. 408 00:22:22,950 --> 00:22:26,390 This is the remains of Monsal Dale station. 409 00:22:26,390 --> 00:22:30,230 It's quite clear that this is the stone edge of the platform here. 410 00:22:30,230 --> 00:22:33,750 But it's hard to figure out exactly the configuration of how the station 411 00:22:33,750 --> 00:22:34,870 would have been. 412 00:22:36,270 --> 00:22:42,910 What I do know is that the track ran so close to this steep valley 413 00:22:42,910 --> 00:22:47,830 on this side here, they had to build the platform on this side 414 00:22:47,830 --> 00:22:51,590 out of wood, sticking out over the edge of this drop. 415 00:22:54,230 --> 00:22:56,030 And that is quite a drop. 416 00:22:58,470 --> 00:23:01,710 In its final years, this station brought walkers 417 00:23:01,710 --> 00:23:03,630 into the new national park. 418 00:23:06,190 --> 00:23:09,910 It was a far cry from one of its earlier roles of bringing 419 00:23:09,910 --> 00:23:14,830 workers to the local cotton mill, but this rural area 420 00:23:14,830 --> 00:23:18,470 was where it all began for the Industrial Revolution. 421 00:23:18,470 --> 00:23:22,390 The world's very first factories weren't in big cities - 422 00:23:22,390 --> 00:23:26,390 they were powered by the rivers of Derbyshire. 423 00:23:26,390 --> 00:23:27,910 Right next to my route, 424 00:23:27,910 --> 00:23:31,110 Litton Mill was up and running a full 80 years 425 00:23:31,110 --> 00:23:33,950 before the railway was built. 426 00:23:33,950 --> 00:23:36,750 It's a really lovely spot down here now. 427 00:23:39,110 --> 00:23:42,870 But the truth is that Litton Mill had an appalling reputation 428 00:23:42,870 --> 00:23:45,830 for cruelty and hardship when it was in full swing. 429 00:23:48,510 --> 00:23:52,510 Litton recruited children from orphanages and workhouses. 430 00:23:53,790 --> 00:23:57,470 The tales of what went on here are claimed to have inspired Dickens 431 00:23:57,470 --> 00:23:59,390 when he wrote Oliver Twist. 432 00:24:00,710 --> 00:24:05,510 And when the mill finally closed in the 1970s, these buildings stood 433 00:24:05,510 --> 00:24:07,510 empty for decades. 434 00:24:11,230 --> 00:24:12,350 But not any more. 435 00:24:13,390 --> 00:24:15,430 Hello. Hi. Hello. Good morning. 436 00:24:15,430 --> 00:24:18,750 Just out for a walk, are you? Just going off with Lenny. 437 00:24:18,750 --> 00:24:20,790 You guys live here, do you? 438 00:24:20,790 --> 00:24:23,550 Yeah, we do. And were you aware this is the old mill 439 00:24:23,550 --> 00:24:26,030 when you moved in? Have you lived here for a while? 440 00:24:26,030 --> 00:24:28,510 We've lived here nine years. Nine years. 441 00:24:28,510 --> 00:24:32,190 And were you aware of the fact that this did have a huge industrial 442 00:24:32,190 --> 00:24:33,390 history when you moved in? 443 00:24:33,390 --> 00:24:36,590 Yes. It's not a very nice past, either. 444 00:24:36,590 --> 00:24:40,550 And in fact, when we first moved here, the first night, dropping 445 00:24:40,550 --> 00:24:43,230 off to sleep, and suddenly I could hear singing 446 00:24:43,230 --> 00:24:45,070 and I'm thinking, "Where is that coming from? 447 00:24:45,070 --> 00:24:46,910 "Is it some kids in the village?" 448 00:24:46,910 --> 00:24:49,390 And then I realised it wasn't the kids in the village at all. 449 00:24:49,390 --> 00:24:53,710 It was children - from the past, I'm guessing - singing. 450 00:24:53,710 --> 00:24:56,390 And I've heard it several times. Goodness me. 451 00:24:56,390 --> 00:24:57,870 It gives you chills, doesn't it? 452 00:24:57,870 --> 00:25:00,310 It was a bit spooky. 453 00:25:00,310 --> 00:25:02,910 And there's still a surprising amount of the old mill that's 454 00:25:02,910 --> 00:25:04,990 been left behind. 455 00:25:04,990 --> 00:25:09,230 We're right up alongside this fast-moving river along here. 456 00:25:09,230 --> 00:25:11,150 It's a natural supply of energy. 457 00:25:11,150 --> 00:25:15,390 Exactly. Originally, it was a water wheel. 458 00:25:15,390 --> 00:25:19,870 Luckily, it was made to travel down those big pipes 459 00:25:19,870 --> 00:25:22,390 and drive those turbines. 460 00:25:22,390 --> 00:25:26,270 And then the water continued on under the mill and away. 461 00:25:27,310 --> 00:25:31,670 And the railway's on the other side of the river just up here, is it? 462 00:25:31,670 --> 00:25:35,030 Just about above where the cliffs are. You've got the tree line. 463 00:25:35,030 --> 00:25:39,750 I remember as a child catching the train in Buxton to Millers Dale, 464 00:25:39,750 --> 00:25:43,150 with my jam sandwiches and a bottle of water for the day, a shilling 465 00:25:43,150 --> 00:25:44,590 return on the train, 466 00:25:44,590 --> 00:25:45,830 and then as I got older, 467 00:25:45,830 --> 00:25:48,350 I was catching that London connection, 468 00:25:48,350 --> 00:25:50,630 but getting off in Derby to meet my boyfriend. 469 00:25:50,630 --> 00:25:52,350 Oh, hello. 470 00:25:52,350 --> 00:25:54,990 And missing half a lesson from school to do it. 471 00:25:54,990 --> 00:25:56,470 Did you?! 472 00:25:56,470 --> 00:25:59,870 Incidentally, I've only just found this out. 473 00:26:03,030 --> 00:26:06,190 Which sounds like my cue to be moving on. 474 00:26:09,190 --> 00:26:13,430 Derbyshire is now a renowned beauty spot, but it's filled 475 00:26:13,430 --> 00:26:16,150 with the remnants of successive industrial eras. 476 00:26:19,230 --> 00:26:21,750 And just over a mile down the line, 477 00:26:21,750 --> 00:26:25,910 I'm reaching a point that I've particularly wanted to see. 478 00:26:26,950 --> 00:26:30,950 In order to bridge the 200-metre gap at Millers Dale, 479 00:26:30,950 --> 00:26:35,510 the Midland Railway built an impressive viaduct. 480 00:26:35,510 --> 00:26:37,830 But for well over a century now, 481 00:26:37,830 --> 00:26:39,510 the standout feature... 482 00:26:41,310 --> 00:26:43,310 ..is that there are two of them. 483 00:26:45,350 --> 00:26:46,510 Walking along here, 484 00:26:46,510 --> 00:26:50,790 I'm on the original viaduct that was built for when this line opened. 485 00:26:50,790 --> 00:26:53,070 But right alongside me here, 486 00:26:53,070 --> 00:26:57,670 the newer viaduct, which came along just over 40 years later. 487 00:26:59,030 --> 00:27:04,590 Now, if you stop and have a look, you can see they both 488 00:27:04,590 --> 00:27:06,870 have these stonework piers 489 00:27:06,870 --> 00:27:10,150 built from limestone and gritstone. 490 00:27:10,150 --> 00:27:12,710 The main difference is up top. 491 00:27:12,710 --> 00:27:19,470 The original viaduct has these beautiful, huge iron arches 492 00:27:19,470 --> 00:27:22,790 on its spans as it crosses the river below. 493 00:27:22,790 --> 00:27:26,310 But across the way, the new viaduct used a material that had come on 494 00:27:26,310 --> 00:27:29,830 leaps and bounds during that 40-year period. 495 00:27:29,830 --> 00:27:34,070 A material that was more reliable, and had better strength qualities - 496 00:27:34,070 --> 00:27:35,230 steel. 497 00:27:37,430 --> 00:27:41,630 But the question is, why did the quiet valley of Millers Dale 498 00:27:41,630 --> 00:27:42,870 need two viaducts? 499 00:27:45,510 --> 00:27:50,750 The answer - on the other side - is Millers Dale Station, the largest 500 00:27:50,750 --> 00:27:53,630 station anywhere between Derby and Manchester. 501 00:27:54,790 --> 00:27:57,350 And it's here that I'm meeting someone who's known 502 00:27:57,350 --> 00:27:59,590 this place since childhood. 503 00:27:59,590 --> 00:28:02,190 Harry. Hello. Hi, Rob. 504 00:28:02,190 --> 00:28:04,390 Nice to meet you. Very nice to meet you. 505 00:28:04,390 --> 00:28:06,950 Well, even though there's no trains coming through these days, 506 00:28:06,950 --> 00:28:09,150 it's still quite busy here at Millers Dale, isn't it? 507 00:28:09,150 --> 00:28:12,270 People coming through all the time now, almost like the old days. 508 00:28:12,270 --> 00:28:13,910 Well, why was it such a major station? 509 00:28:13,910 --> 00:28:16,710 Because we've got these platforms that we can see here. 510 00:28:16,710 --> 00:28:18,270 Did it extend further than that? 511 00:28:18,270 --> 00:28:21,710 Yeah, it started out as a two-platform station and finished 512 00:28:21,710 --> 00:28:23,590 up as a five-platform station. 513 00:28:23,590 --> 00:28:27,830 The only five-platform station outside of a major city in the UK, 514 00:28:27,830 --> 00:28:30,630 in the middle of the Peak District - seems rather stupid, doesn't it? 515 00:28:30,630 --> 00:28:32,590 It does. So why were there five platforms? 516 00:28:32,590 --> 00:28:36,270 Well, you had the busy quarrying industry right down the line. 517 00:28:36,270 --> 00:28:39,430 You've got the mills at Millers Dale, Litton Mills, 518 00:28:39,430 --> 00:28:44,030 Cressbrook, coal deliveries were made to here, so materials and goods 519 00:28:44,030 --> 00:28:48,110 had to come in. So this was a real hub of industry. Absolutely. 520 00:28:48,110 --> 00:28:51,870 And to have express trains stopping here as well between Manchester 521 00:28:51,870 --> 00:28:54,910 and London was quite exceptional, I think, for such a 522 00:28:54,910 --> 00:28:56,950 small community, you know. Yeah. 523 00:28:56,950 --> 00:28:59,710 You know, nearly everybody descended on Millers Dale. 524 00:29:00,870 --> 00:29:05,110 In the final years of the railway's life, Harry's father was both 525 00:29:05,110 --> 00:29:07,990 station booking clerk and sub postmaster for 526 00:29:07,990 --> 00:29:12,230 Millers Dale Post Office, based right next to the platform. 527 00:29:13,350 --> 00:29:16,110 Do you remember being up and around here as a kid? Oh, yeah. 528 00:29:16,110 --> 00:29:18,990 Yeah, coming on here, watching the trains go in and out. 529 00:29:18,990 --> 00:29:21,030 I would come over and sometimes help the porters, 530 00:29:21,030 --> 00:29:23,190 sometimes get in the way of the porters, you know? 531 00:29:23,190 --> 00:29:25,190 Yeah, I remember it very fondly. 532 00:29:25,190 --> 00:29:28,390 So that's my father back in '67. 533 00:29:28,390 --> 00:29:31,230 Inside the booking hall and the Post Office counter. 534 00:29:31,230 --> 00:29:33,190 There's the rack of tickets behind. 535 00:29:33,190 --> 00:29:34,990 He looks very happy and jolly. 536 00:29:34,990 --> 00:29:36,230 I bet everybody knew him, 537 00:29:36,230 --> 00:29:38,190 and I bet he knew almost everyone around as well. 538 00:29:38,190 --> 00:29:39,310 Oh, yeah, without doubt. 539 00:29:39,310 --> 00:29:42,310 I can even remember the days when as a sub postmaster he would deliver 540 00:29:42,310 --> 00:29:44,190 the post on Christmas Day. There you go. 541 00:29:44,190 --> 00:29:46,110 I mean, that's commitment, isn't it? 542 00:29:46,110 --> 00:29:48,230 Yeah. It was just a perfect community. 543 00:29:51,830 --> 00:29:56,270 But, as Harry says, Millers Dale's importance didn't just stem 544 00:29:56,270 --> 00:29:59,030 from passengers and locals. 545 00:29:59,030 --> 00:30:01,030 And there's one giant local industry 546 00:30:01,030 --> 00:30:04,590 I still haven't investigated. 547 00:30:04,590 --> 00:30:09,510 Old films at the Midland Railway show this industry in action. 548 00:30:09,510 --> 00:30:14,270 Long trains, wagon after wagon filled with the spoils 549 00:30:14,270 --> 00:30:16,910 of this region's natural resource - 550 00:30:16,910 --> 00:30:17,910 limestone. 551 00:30:21,110 --> 00:30:25,150 Right next to the railway line here. Look at this. 552 00:30:25,150 --> 00:30:28,310 It looks like something straight out of a sci-fi movie. 553 00:30:28,310 --> 00:30:30,990 It's actually a Victorian lime kiln. 554 00:30:30,990 --> 00:30:36,430 Giant structures like this were used to turn local limestone into 555 00:30:36,430 --> 00:30:42,710 quicklime, used to fertilise soil, make cement, steel and even glass. 556 00:30:42,710 --> 00:30:46,750 And the process started at the very top of the kiln. 557 00:30:46,750 --> 00:30:48,310 Hello. Hello. 558 00:30:48,310 --> 00:30:52,390 Here to meet me is Peak District archaeologist Anna Badcock. 559 00:30:52,390 --> 00:30:55,430 So we're right on top of one of the lime kilns here. 560 00:30:55,430 --> 00:30:58,230 We are. There's two, actually, side by side. 561 00:30:58,230 --> 00:31:01,030 And they were constructed in the late 1860s. 562 00:31:01,030 --> 00:31:02,990 So shortly after the railway was built. 563 00:31:02,990 --> 00:31:04,710 That's not a coincidence then, is it? No. 564 00:31:04,710 --> 00:31:06,630 Because they're built right alongside. 565 00:31:06,630 --> 00:31:08,230 They're here because of the railways. 566 00:31:08,230 --> 00:31:12,830 The railway allowed that limestone industry to just mushroom 567 00:31:12,830 --> 00:31:16,350 because of access to fuel, which could be brought in on the railway 568 00:31:16,350 --> 00:31:19,510 and then access to markets with the product at the end. 569 00:31:19,510 --> 00:31:23,750 So then if quicklime comes out the bottom, what's going into the top 570 00:31:23,750 --> 00:31:27,550 to make that? So, blocks of limestone, various sizes. 571 00:31:27,550 --> 00:31:31,830 So these wagons would be loaded with the limestone and the fuel 572 00:31:31,830 --> 00:31:33,470 and they'd just go round. 573 00:31:33,470 --> 00:31:35,150 Tip in. And tip in. 574 00:31:35,150 --> 00:31:37,790 And the Peak District is known for being an area 575 00:31:37,790 --> 00:31:39,270 abundant with limestone. 576 00:31:39,270 --> 00:31:41,510 So that would have been locally sourced? Yeah. 577 00:31:41,510 --> 00:31:44,510 The evidence of quarrying is just everywhere all around us. 578 00:31:44,510 --> 00:31:47,030 And so those faces that you can see in the distance... 579 00:31:47,030 --> 00:31:50,790 Yeah, the sheer stone faces here. Yeah. So that's all human-made. 580 00:31:53,230 --> 00:31:57,270 This one site could produce 50 tonnes of quicklime a day, 581 00:31:57,270 --> 00:32:01,750 but only once workers had stepped inside to set the kilns and ensure 582 00:32:01,750 --> 00:32:04,310 a temperature of 1,000 degrees C. 583 00:32:05,630 --> 00:32:08,470 You can see how it's been cut through solid rock, can't you? 584 00:32:09,710 --> 00:32:11,190 Can we go in? Yeah. 585 00:32:15,870 --> 00:32:19,910 So this is the eye of the kiln and this is where wood would be laid 586 00:32:19,910 --> 00:32:22,590 to set the fire to start it all off. OK. 587 00:32:22,590 --> 00:32:26,470 And then can you imagine layers of limestone and coal, limestone, 588 00:32:26,470 --> 00:32:28,670 coal, stacked all the way... 589 00:32:28,670 --> 00:32:30,430 All the way to the top where we were earlier. 590 00:32:30,430 --> 00:32:32,430 Where we were earlier. All the way through. 591 00:32:32,430 --> 00:32:35,150 And it would slowly burn up. 592 00:32:35,150 --> 00:32:38,710 And it's the same on this side. Exactly. It's a mirror image. 593 00:32:38,710 --> 00:32:41,390 That little thing's a toot hole. 594 00:32:41,390 --> 00:32:43,710 So that's where they would have tested the temperature, 595 00:32:43,710 --> 00:32:46,870 make sure it's firing at the right temperature. 596 00:32:46,870 --> 00:32:48,670 I think that's coal. 597 00:32:48,670 --> 00:32:50,310 That is coal. That is the fuel. 598 00:32:50,310 --> 00:32:52,470 That's from the last time this would've been fired up. 599 00:32:52,470 --> 00:32:53,830 That's a bit of old coal. Yep. 600 00:32:53,830 --> 00:32:55,870 Goodness me. Still here. 601 00:32:55,870 --> 00:32:58,510 And then underneath, this is where the quicklime would come out. 602 00:32:58,510 --> 00:33:01,710 It is. So it would be shovelled out into barrows and then out 603 00:33:01,710 --> 00:33:04,070 onto the railway. Straight on to the railway. 604 00:33:04,070 --> 00:33:05,750 Yeah. Couldn't be any closer. 605 00:33:05,750 --> 00:33:08,070 I mean, it's not the best working conditions. 606 00:33:08,070 --> 00:33:10,750 It would be horrible. Hot, smoky, 607 00:33:10,750 --> 00:33:14,510 and you've got... Dusty and then it's caustic, 608 00:33:14,510 --> 00:33:17,950 so the quicklime will burn your skin. 609 00:33:17,950 --> 00:33:19,910 So it must have been really, actually, 610 00:33:19,910 --> 00:33:21,830 very horrible working conditions. 611 00:33:21,830 --> 00:33:26,590 The fires were finally put out at this kiln in 1944, just seven 612 00:33:26,590 --> 00:33:30,630 years before this land of heavy industry was transformed 613 00:33:30,630 --> 00:33:33,070 into our very first national park. 614 00:33:34,510 --> 00:33:35,910 Coming up... 615 00:33:35,910 --> 00:33:39,030 There's a 3,000bhp engine in there. 616 00:33:39,030 --> 00:33:43,190 ..I find a railway industry that's alive and massive. 617 00:33:44,230 --> 00:33:45,230 Oh! 618 00:33:46,630 --> 00:33:50,830 And in Buxton, I run into the Midland Railways' arch rival. 619 00:33:50,830 --> 00:33:54,030 And their station is still here! 620 00:34:00,910 --> 00:34:03,470 Well, there is no doubt about it. 621 00:34:03,470 --> 00:34:08,350 The simplest route between London and Manchester is definitely not 622 00:34:08,350 --> 00:34:11,310 through all this, but the Midland Railway 623 00:34:11,310 --> 00:34:14,030 built their line here anyway. 624 00:34:14,030 --> 00:34:16,510 And mighty impressive it's been, too. 625 00:34:18,310 --> 00:34:22,230 I've been crossing the Peak District by following a quite 626 00:34:22,230 --> 00:34:23,950 remarkable lost railway. 627 00:34:25,190 --> 00:34:28,230 But before my journey ends in Buxton, there's one 628 00:34:28,230 --> 00:34:32,750 more Derbyshire industry to see, and this one's alive and well. 629 00:34:38,230 --> 00:34:42,630 Tunstead is the largest limestone operation in the UK. 630 00:34:44,310 --> 00:34:48,070 Work's been going on here for almost a century. 631 00:34:48,070 --> 00:34:52,830 And right alongside, a short section of railway is still working, too. 632 00:34:54,550 --> 00:34:57,510 So this is still part of the old Midland Railway 633 00:34:57,510 --> 00:34:59,710 that is in operation. 634 00:34:59,710 --> 00:35:02,070 That's right. The railway has been here since the late 1800s. 635 00:35:02,070 --> 00:35:03,270 TRAIN HORN TOOTS 636 00:35:03,270 --> 00:35:05,470 And this train that's just blown its horn now 637 00:35:05,470 --> 00:35:08,190 will be going through the batch loader plant. 638 00:35:08,190 --> 00:35:11,830 When the rest of my line closed in 1968, 639 00:35:11,830 --> 00:35:15,430 a few miles looping around the quarry was kept open to carry 640 00:35:15,430 --> 00:35:17,550 freight to Buxton and beyond. 641 00:35:19,670 --> 00:35:24,150 Tunstead manager John Fotherby now controls 9km 642 00:35:24,150 --> 00:35:29,110 of quarry sidings, five separate loading plants, and four locomotives. 643 00:35:30,270 --> 00:35:34,830 So this engine here weighs about 130 tonnes and there's a 644 00:35:34,830 --> 00:35:38,150 3,000bph engine in there. 645 00:35:38,150 --> 00:35:41,070 The trains that go out of here go to two and a half thousand 646 00:35:41,070 --> 00:35:44,190 tonne gross. So each one of these wagons is fairly sizable, 647 00:35:44,190 --> 00:35:47,150 as well, then. This wagon here, when it's fully laden, 648 00:35:47,150 --> 00:35:49,110 will be 90 tonne in total. 649 00:35:49,110 --> 00:35:52,870 This whole train will take 45 trucks off the road. Wow. 650 00:35:52,870 --> 00:35:55,230 The amount of pollution that would chuck out compared 651 00:35:55,230 --> 00:35:57,830 to one train delivery is unbelievable. 652 00:35:57,830 --> 00:36:00,590 The limestone is then processed into lime. 653 00:36:00,590 --> 00:36:02,150 Where does that end up? 654 00:36:02,150 --> 00:36:05,630 Lime product ends up in your toothpaste, in your food, 655 00:36:05,630 --> 00:36:08,870 but major construction the lime's been used in 656 00:36:08,870 --> 00:36:12,670 is the Mersey Gateway that's recently opened in Liverpool. 657 00:36:12,670 --> 00:36:16,510 The Shard, O2 Arena - it ends up literally everywhere. 658 00:36:18,310 --> 00:36:21,670 Concrete and cement for constructions all around the country 659 00:36:21,670 --> 00:36:26,630 are made with limestone from here, and one more train load 660 00:36:26,630 --> 00:36:28,190 is about to be filled. 661 00:36:29,270 --> 00:36:31,470 So that's going to be quite noisy up there, isn't it? 662 00:36:31,470 --> 00:36:33,750 Dumping loads of tonnes of limestone. It's going to 663 00:36:33,750 --> 00:36:36,430 be a very noisy affair and we're going to have to get 664 00:36:36,430 --> 00:36:38,590 out of this area very shortly. 665 00:36:39,790 --> 00:36:43,990 Luckily, the control room is on hand, from where you can survey 666 00:36:43,990 --> 00:36:45,830 the whole process. 667 00:36:45,830 --> 00:36:47,630 Go ahead, Dave. Set her off. 668 00:36:48,750 --> 00:36:51,070 Ooh. Hello. 669 00:36:51,070 --> 00:36:53,950 Straight away, there's rumble. 670 00:36:53,950 --> 00:36:58,150 That there is 66 tonne of material dropping into the wagon in one go. 671 00:36:58,150 --> 00:36:59,350 HE CHUCKLES 672 00:37:00,510 --> 00:37:03,870 Each wagon is filled in just five seconds 673 00:37:03,870 --> 00:37:06,030 as the train creeps forward. 674 00:37:09,470 --> 00:37:12,510 The whole train will be through here in about 20 minutes. 675 00:37:12,510 --> 00:37:14,390 Wow. 676 00:37:14,390 --> 00:37:19,270 But to get this far, a lot of work has already been done. 677 00:37:19,270 --> 00:37:23,630 A fleet of dumper trucks carry 100 tonnes of rock at a time, 678 00:37:23,630 --> 00:37:27,030 to where it's crushed, blended and carried to the railway 679 00:37:27,030 --> 00:37:28,470 sidings by conveyor. 680 00:37:32,190 --> 00:37:34,670 It's got a little platform here so we can get the best 681 00:37:34,670 --> 00:37:37,750 views in the house? Just for you today, you see. 682 00:37:37,750 --> 00:37:39,950 Gives us a brilliant view of the quarry. 683 00:37:39,950 --> 00:37:42,270 The size of this quarry, when you come up here, 684 00:37:42,270 --> 00:37:44,790 it's just phenomenal, isn't it? 685 00:37:44,790 --> 00:37:46,310 Yeah. This is massive. 686 00:37:46,310 --> 00:37:50,670 This whole site is about 2,000 acres in total. 687 00:37:50,670 --> 00:37:53,670 John's brought me to see the dramatic start 688 00:37:53,670 --> 00:37:55,870 of the quarrying process. 689 00:37:55,870 --> 00:37:58,630 There'll be a 45,000-tonne blast going off today. 690 00:37:58,630 --> 00:38:00,590 45,000 tonnes? 691 00:38:00,590 --> 00:38:01,950 In one blast? That's right. 692 00:38:01,950 --> 00:38:03,950 Yes, that's one of the smaller blasts we have here 693 00:38:03,950 --> 00:38:05,830 at Tunstead Quarry. 694 00:38:05,830 --> 00:38:09,190 So it's not the old plunger job to get the explosion going, is it? 695 00:38:09,190 --> 00:38:11,830 No, no, it's not going to be coyote looking for roadrunner 696 00:38:11,830 --> 00:38:14,070 with TNT there. 697 00:38:14,070 --> 00:38:16,510 No, it's all done by electronic explosives - 698 00:38:16,510 --> 00:38:18,790 electronic detonators - nowadays. 699 00:38:18,790 --> 00:38:22,070 It's actually ten tonnes of explosives used in this blast today. 700 00:38:22,070 --> 00:38:23,470 Is it really? Goodness. 701 00:38:23,470 --> 00:38:26,230 RADIO: Tend to all stations. 702 00:38:26,230 --> 00:38:27,550 SIREN WAILS 703 00:38:27,550 --> 00:38:29,750 That's the blasting siren now going off. 704 00:38:29,750 --> 00:38:31,590 Phil and his team are just getting ready now. 705 00:38:31,590 --> 00:38:34,150 There's a blasting supervisor there with the transmitter 706 00:38:34,150 --> 00:38:37,030 in his hands, ready to push the button. 707 00:38:37,030 --> 00:38:38,470 This is tense. 708 00:38:39,990 --> 00:38:43,030 RADIO CHATTER 709 00:38:52,550 --> 00:38:56,030 That is something. I've never seen anything like that. 710 00:38:56,030 --> 00:38:57,670 That was a good one today. 711 00:38:57,670 --> 00:39:00,630 Yeah, it seems to echo a little bit around the quarry, as well. 712 00:39:03,550 --> 00:39:05,110 Now the dust all cleared, 713 00:39:05,110 --> 00:39:07,310 you can see just what's come out of that rock face. 714 00:39:07,310 --> 00:39:11,710 What was a solid rock is now all this great big pile of rubble. 715 00:39:11,710 --> 00:39:14,870 That's right. A few trainloads of earth. Yeah, indeed. 716 00:39:14,870 --> 00:39:16,630 Prime limestone material. 717 00:39:21,350 --> 00:39:24,190 Just two miles from the giant quarry, 718 00:39:24,190 --> 00:39:27,670 perched on the very edge of the limestone plateau, 719 00:39:27,670 --> 00:39:31,550 is my destination - the spa town of Buxton. 720 00:39:34,070 --> 00:39:37,150 This feels like a well-deserved refreshment. 721 00:39:44,070 --> 00:39:46,510 Yep. That's definitely water. 722 00:39:46,510 --> 00:39:49,630 It's warmer than you might think, but I guess that's to be expected, 723 00:39:49,630 --> 00:39:51,070 coming up from the ground. 724 00:39:51,070 --> 00:39:54,950 Geothermal water certainly put Buxton on the map, 725 00:39:54,950 --> 00:39:58,870 but it was the railways that made the town what it is today. 726 00:40:00,430 --> 00:40:04,110 Just over 50 years ago, you'd have found the Midland Railway 727 00:40:04,110 --> 00:40:05,470 station right here. 728 00:40:07,030 --> 00:40:08,830 There's not much left of it. 729 00:40:10,630 --> 00:40:13,750 But we do know exactly what the station looked 730 00:40:13,750 --> 00:40:17,070 like because its twin is still with us. 731 00:40:18,910 --> 00:40:22,950 Buxton is where the Midland Railway ran into its arch rival - 732 00:40:22,950 --> 00:40:28,470 the London and North Western - and their station is still here. 733 00:40:31,510 --> 00:40:33,950 The Midland had hoped to build their line straight 734 00:40:33,950 --> 00:40:36,830 through Buxton to Manchester. 735 00:40:36,830 --> 00:40:40,670 But as they got here, the LNWR were finishing their own line 736 00:40:40,670 --> 00:40:42,510 to Buxton FROM Manchester. 737 00:40:44,750 --> 00:40:46,190 Look, you can see. 738 00:40:46,190 --> 00:40:50,270 London and North Western Railway Company carved in stone 739 00:40:50,270 --> 00:40:53,310 above this wonderfully intricate window. 740 00:40:58,270 --> 00:41:02,830 Both stations were designed by Joseph Paxton, who'd made his name 741 00:41:02,830 --> 00:41:05,510 creating the Crystal Palace in London. 742 00:41:06,910 --> 00:41:08,870 Perfect railway symmetry. 743 00:41:10,070 --> 00:41:15,230 Amazingly, they each had their grand opening on the same day in May 1863. 744 00:41:16,350 --> 00:41:21,310 The Midlands had their dinner at 2pm and the LNWR just an hour 745 00:41:21,310 --> 00:41:23,710 later at 3pm. 746 00:41:23,710 --> 00:41:26,510 Allegedly, Paxton made it along to both. 747 00:41:30,030 --> 00:41:34,030 In a quirk of Victorian railway building, Buxton ended up 748 00:41:34,030 --> 00:41:36,150 a terminus to two lines. 749 00:41:38,150 --> 00:41:41,870 But did that stop the Midland reaching Manchester? 750 00:41:41,870 --> 00:41:45,870 Oh, no. They simply backtracked down their own line and created 751 00:41:45,870 --> 00:41:48,750 a new route, missing out Buxton entirely. 752 00:41:51,270 --> 00:41:55,590 You've got to admire the Midlands' determination, but I don't think 753 00:41:55,590 --> 00:41:57,950 Buxton was any worse off. 754 00:41:57,950 --> 00:42:02,870 The population of the town tripled within just 20 years 755 00:42:02,870 --> 00:42:05,230 of the railways arriving. 756 00:42:05,230 --> 00:42:11,030 And the country got its second main line between London and Manchester - 757 00:42:11,030 --> 00:42:16,150 one full of the beauty and drama of the Peak District. 758 00:42:16,150 --> 00:42:19,710 That one's no longer with us, but what a train ride 759 00:42:19,710 --> 00:42:20,990 it must have been. 760 00:42:25,510 --> 00:42:26,750 Next time... 761 00:42:26,750 --> 00:42:29,950 It's the story of the very first railways. 762 00:42:29,950 --> 00:42:34,750 ..I'm in the northeast to see how coal kick-started the railway age. 763 00:42:34,750 --> 00:42:37,390 That could be 200 year old. 764 00:42:37,390 --> 00:42:40,070 I'll pay a visit to the 1820s... 765 00:42:40,070 --> 00:42:42,750 All the mechanics of this are right on show. 766 00:42:42,750 --> 00:42:47,390 ..and see how lost mining railways are getting a new lease of life. 767 00:42:47,390 --> 00:42:49,750 C'mon! Yeah! 768 00:43:13,950 --> 00:43:16,070 Subtitles by Red Bee Media