1 00:00:03,000 --> 00:00:06,000 For the past 20 years I've driven hundreds of thousands of miles 2 00:00:06,000 --> 00:00:08,760 to uncover the history of these islands. 3 00:00:11,200 --> 00:00:14,640 But now it's time for a different approach. 4 00:00:14,640 --> 00:00:18,600 I'm going to turn the engine off, and leave the car behind. 5 00:00:21,000 --> 00:00:22,640 Instead, I'm going to walk. 6 00:00:27,280 --> 00:00:31,280 My walks will uncover the richest history from our finest landscapes 7 00:00:31,280 --> 00:00:33,920 in a way that's only possible on foot. 8 00:00:38,120 --> 00:00:41,840 This time, I've come to a quiet corner of the south-east - 9 00:00:41,840 --> 00:00:45,320 the fields, woodland and the Downs of Kent and East Sussex. 10 00:00:47,000 --> 00:00:50,280 But 500 years ago, this most unlikely of areas 11 00:00:50,280 --> 00:00:52,840 echoed with the noise of industry 12 00:00:52,840 --> 00:00:57,120 and dripped with the intrigue of political upheaval. 13 00:00:57,120 --> 00:01:00,720 And the architect of that upheaval was none other than the towering figure 14 00:01:00,720 --> 00:01:04,800 of England's most fascinating monarch, Henry VIII. 15 00:01:17,120 --> 00:01:20,280 This historical quest takes me on a walk through an area 16 00:01:20,280 --> 00:01:22,560 we know as the Weald. 17 00:01:22,560 --> 00:01:25,120 On a sunny day, there can't be many other parts of the country 18 00:01:25,120 --> 00:01:26,200 so enchanting. 19 00:01:28,760 --> 00:01:32,360 My four-day walk starts in Kent with the great estates of 20 00:01:32,360 --> 00:01:33,920 Penshurst and Hever, 21 00:01:33,920 --> 00:01:37,480 both central to the bloody game of Tudor politics. 22 00:01:40,200 --> 00:01:41,440 Deeper into the Weald, 23 00:01:41,440 --> 00:01:45,720 and day two reveals the remains of a Tudor Industrial Revolution. 24 00:01:47,080 --> 00:01:49,640 Into Sussex, and Ashdown Forest, 25 00:01:49,640 --> 00:01:53,720 spectacular walking territory now, but once a playground 26 00:01:53,720 --> 00:01:55,920 for a sporting king. 27 00:01:55,920 --> 00:02:00,120 Finally, over the South Downs to Lewes, and the orgy of destruction 28 00:02:00,120 --> 00:02:03,200 that defined the final years of Henry's reign. 29 00:02:09,560 --> 00:02:14,120 But here in Penshurst village, just ten miles south of the M25, 30 00:02:14,120 --> 00:02:16,560 I'm starting with a seismic change 31 00:02:16,560 --> 00:02:19,120 that began in the early years of Henry's reign. 32 00:02:20,480 --> 00:02:24,480 The young Henry came to the throne in the year 1509, 33 00:02:24,480 --> 00:02:27,120 and immediately he married Catherine of Aragon, 34 00:02:27,120 --> 00:02:29,280 which is what his dad Henry VII wanted 35 00:02:29,280 --> 00:02:33,000 because it helped cement a European alliance. 36 00:02:33,000 --> 00:02:36,920 So, in a way, you could say that that marriage was a hangover 37 00:02:36,920 --> 00:02:41,360 from the old order, an order that Henry was about to turn on its head. 38 00:02:46,000 --> 00:02:48,280 He may have been famous for his fearsome rage 39 00:02:48,280 --> 00:02:50,440 and many marriages but, more importantly, 40 00:02:50,440 --> 00:02:54,280 he transformed English society, especially the make-up 41 00:02:54,280 --> 00:02:56,120 of the royal court. 42 00:02:57,200 --> 00:03:01,000 It was a brutal and bitter process, and it began right here 43 00:03:01,000 --> 00:03:04,680 at Penshurst Place some ten years into Henry's reign. 44 00:03:05,680 --> 00:03:07,920 So I've arranged to meet my friend, 45 00:03:07,920 --> 00:03:10,640 top historical novelist Philippa Gregory, 46 00:03:10,640 --> 00:03:14,680 to find out what happened to Henry's first high-profile victim. 47 00:03:16,000 --> 00:03:18,840 Hi, how lovely to see you! 48 00:03:18,840 --> 00:03:20,320 Well, I'm so glad you've come here, 49 00:03:20,320 --> 00:03:22,560 it's one of the great show houses of Kent 50 00:03:22,560 --> 00:03:25,360 and it's one of the places where, in a sense, there's a turning point 51 00:03:25,360 --> 00:03:28,800 for the whole of Henry's reign, and it happens right here. 52 00:03:30,280 --> 00:03:34,000 By Henry's reign, Penshurst was in the hands of Edward Stafford, 53 00:03:34,000 --> 00:03:37,480 better known as the Duke of Buckingham, a top aristocrat 54 00:03:37,480 --> 00:03:40,200 with a pedigree stretching back centuries. 55 00:03:42,840 --> 00:03:46,720 And, in 1519, Henry arrived here at Penshurst, 56 00:03:46,720 --> 00:03:49,800 honoured guest at one of the events of the age. 57 00:03:54,280 --> 00:03:56,200 Wow! 58 00:03:56,200 --> 00:03:58,280 That is some roof, isn't it? 59 00:03:58,280 --> 00:04:00,320 Isn't it fabulous? 60 00:04:00,320 --> 00:04:02,920 You could throw a bit of a party in here, couldn't you? 61 00:04:02,920 --> 00:04:05,840 Well, they did throw an amazing party in here in 1519. 62 00:04:05,840 --> 00:04:08,000 The Duke of Buckingham put on the biggest, 63 00:04:08,000 --> 00:04:11,120 most expensive party, probably, that Henry had ever seen. 64 00:04:11,120 --> 00:04:16,000 It cost £1 million in today's money and it lasted for ten days. 65 00:04:16,000 --> 00:04:18,200 So what did he want out of Henry? 66 00:04:18,200 --> 00:04:22,120 I think he wanted to demonstrate his luxury and his extent 67 00:04:22,120 --> 00:04:26,840 of his wealth, and it was really a terrible, terrible mistake. 68 00:04:26,840 --> 00:04:27,680 Because? 69 00:04:27,680 --> 00:04:30,760 Because what Henry saw was how many retainers he had, 70 00:04:30,760 --> 00:04:34,840 how much power he had, how grand he was - as grand as a king. 71 00:04:34,840 --> 00:04:39,000 This hall is not unlike Westminster Palace and immediately 72 00:04:39,000 --> 00:04:41,000 Henry's paranoia about his subjects 73 00:04:41,000 --> 00:04:43,120 just really became too strong for him. 74 00:04:43,120 --> 00:04:45,200 So what happened to Buckingham? 75 00:04:45,200 --> 00:04:46,480 Well, the worst thing. 76 00:04:46,480 --> 00:04:50,120 Henry had him accused of conspiring for the king's death 77 00:04:50,120 --> 00:04:53,640 and prophesying the king's death, and those are both treasons. 78 00:04:53,640 --> 00:04:57,640 So he was tried before a jury of his peers the very next year 79 00:04:57,640 --> 00:04:58,920 after this party. 80 00:04:58,920 --> 00:04:59,280 And? 81 00:04:59,280 --> 00:05:01,360 The year after that he was executed. 82 00:05:03,520 --> 00:05:06,280 Buckingham was the first to fall foul of Henry's ability 83 00:05:06,280 --> 00:05:09,640 to find treason in his own court. 84 00:05:09,640 --> 00:05:12,600 His execution was a demonstration of how things would now be, 85 00:05:12,600 --> 00:05:17,800 because by 1520, the confident young king was becoming a suspicious, 86 00:05:17,800 --> 00:05:19,000 brutal monarch. 87 00:05:23,080 --> 00:05:26,760 In my opinion, Henry goes from this point to a real paranoid anxiety 88 00:05:26,760 --> 00:05:31,640 about the aristocracy, about the old order that had links to the royal family, 89 00:05:31,640 --> 00:05:33,640 that had these huge retainers, 90 00:05:33,640 --> 00:05:37,120 that had enormous wealth, and that he felt might challenge him. 91 00:05:37,120 --> 00:05:41,160 So what's Henry's role in bringing about a new order? 92 00:05:41,160 --> 00:05:44,040 Well, he deliberately attacks the aristocrats. 93 00:05:44,040 --> 00:05:47,040 He cuts down the numbers of armies they can have standing, 94 00:05:47,040 --> 00:05:51,160 and what he does is he really identifies himself with the new men, 95 00:05:51,160 --> 00:05:53,960 so he promotes people from not just the middle classes, 96 00:05:53,960 --> 00:05:56,240 but quite lowly people, he picks out... 97 00:05:56,240 --> 00:05:59,840 He talent-spots people, people like Thomas Cromwell, 98 00:05:59,840 --> 00:06:01,720 people like Cardinal Wolsey, 99 00:06:01,720 --> 00:06:04,560 people like Thomas Boleyn from Hever Castle. 100 00:06:06,400 --> 00:06:10,840 Hever Castle and the Boleyn family, two names for ever linked with 101 00:06:10,840 --> 00:06:12,640 the Tudor age. 102 00:06:12,640 --> 00:06:14,680 They're also next on my historic route 103 00:06:14,680 --> 00:06:16,520 through the Kentish countryside. 104 00:06:19,960 --> 00:06:22,920 But why have Hever's owners become synonymous 105 00:06:22,920 --> 00:06:25,280 with Henry's new social order? 106 00:06:25,280 --> 00:06:27,600 That's what I hope to find out as I head west, 107 00:06:27,600 --> 00:06:30,560 following the Eden Valley for four miles, 108 00:06:30,560 --> 00:06:34,760 from the old money of Penshurst to the new world of the Boleyn family. 109 00:06:38,160 --> 00:06:41,240 The locals round here call this path the Coach Road, 110 00:06:41,240 --> 00:06:44,840 although, actually, it's from a long time before coaches. 111 00:06:44,840 --> 00:06:48,360 This used to be the main line of communication 112 00:06:48,360 --> 00:06:51,200 between Penshurst and Hever Castle. 113 00:06:53,280 --> 00:06:57,760 My route between these two big estates has hardly changed in 500 years. 114 00:06:57,760 --> 00:07:00,720 It's a bit of a treat for all modern walkers. 115 00:07:02,120 --> 00:07:05,920 Penshurst and Hever are still the area's dominant landowners, 116 00:07:05,920 --> 00:07:09,200 and they've managed to preserve the original Coach Road that 117 00:07:09,200 --> 00:07:10,200 connected them. 118 00:07:28,080 --> 00:07:30,920 All right, this is just a tidgy little path now, 119 00:07:30,920 --> 00:07:33,000 but it was once a major thoroughfare. 120 00:07:38,760 --> 00:07:42,160 They say that this path was eroded by century after century 121 00:07:42,160 --> 00:07:47,080 of people's feet and horses' hooves and pigs' trotters and so on, 122 00:07:47,080 --> 00:07:49,200 but, look at this. 123 00:07:49,200 --> 00:07:50,520 That's solid rock, isn't it? 124 00:07:50,520 --> 00:07:52,600 There must have been some engineering. 125 00:07:55,840 --> 00:07:57,040 It's quite creepy, isn't it? 126 00:07:58,320 --> 00:08:01,160 I'm coming up to the edge of the Hever estate. 127 00:08:03,280 --> 00:08:07,320 500 years ago, this was the way to one of the burgeoning powerhouses 128 00:08:07,320 --> 00:08:09,000 of Tudor England. 129 00:08:09,000 --> 00:08:12,520 And, who knows, maybe Henry himself once rode along this very track? 130 00:08:14,560 --> 00:08:16,320 He certainly would have had a good reason 131 00:08:16,320 --> 00:08:18,880 because while he was still married to Catherine of Aragon, 132 00:08:18,880 --> 00:08:21,560 Hever was the home of his most famous squeeze, 133 00:08:21,560 --> 00:08:23,480 Thomas Boleyn's daughter Anne. 134 00:08:28,440 --> 00:08:32,920 Look at that! It's like something out of a fantasy novel, isn't it? 135 00:08:32,920 --> 00:08:36,200 Got this symmetrical castle with the moat and the drawbridge 136 00:08:36,200 --> 00:08:40,120 and these immaculate lawns. It's even got a flag there. 137 00:08:40,120 --> 00:08:44,320 You can just imagine a handsome young prince riding up, 138 00:08:44,320 --> 00:08:46,320 setting everyone's hearts aflutter 139 00:08:46,320 --> 00:08:49,600 and then riding off with the beautiful girl, can't you? 140 00:08:51,360 --> 00:08:53,000 Well, that's the fairy tale, 141 00:08:53,000 --> 00:08:56,800 but were Henry and Anne really besotted with each other, 142 00:08:56,800 --> 00:09:00,320 or was Anne simply a pawn in her father's efforts to influence 143 00:09:00,320 --> 00:09:01,320 Henry's court? 144 00:09:03,280 --> 00:09:06,080 Helping me find out at Anne's childhood home 145 00:09:06,080 --> 00:09:07,920 is historian Tracy Borman, 146 00:09:07,920 --> 00:09:10,520 a specialist in the role of Tudor women. 147 00:09:10,520 --> 00:09:12,880 What were the Boleyns like? 148 00:09:12,880 --> 00:09:15,720 The Boleyns were really part of the new order. 149 00:09:15,720 --> 00:09:19,200 Thomas Boleyn was hugely popular with Henry VIII. 150 00:09:19,200 --> 00:09:23,920 But he was from trade, he wasn't from the old aristocracy, 151 00:09:23,920 --> 00:09:28,560 and he was, sort of, a relatively new member of the court scene, 152 00:09:28,560 --> 00:09:30,280 but Henry loved him. 153 00:09:31,440 --> 00:09:34,720 And Thomas didn't just have one, he had two secret weapons - 154 00:09:34,720 --> 00:09:36,160 his daughters. 155 00:09:37,560 --> 00:09:40,000 In the early 1520s it was Mary, not Anne, 156 00:09:40,000 --> 00:09:42,160 who first became the king's mistress. 157 00:09:44,720 --> 00:09:48,640 But with Thomas to oversee things, tactics were rather different 158 00:09:48,640 --> 00:09:51,760 once Henry's eye had come to settle on the younger Boleyn daughter. 159 00:09:55,120 --> 00:09:59,240 Do you think Henry actually loved Anne Boleyn? 160 00:09:59,240 --> 00:10:02,320 I think Henry was certainly infatuated by Anne. 161 00:10:02,320 --> 00:10:05,080 I also think there is an element of wanting what he couldn't have. 162 00:10:05,080 --> 00:10:08,280 Anne kept Henry at bay for seven years. 163 00:10:08,280 --> 00:10:10,560 He was a great hunter, it was the thrill of the chase. 164 00:10:10,560 --> 00:10:13,080 She didn't give herself to him during those seven years? 165 00:10:13,080 --> 00:10:14,520 She didn't, she didn't, you know? 166 00:10:14,520 --> 00:10:18,320 It was the mid-1520s when she first really came to his attention, 167 00:10:18,320 --> 00:10:20,960 and for seven long years she held him at bay, 168 00:10:20,960 --> 00:10:23,000 which was quite a feat, you know? 169 00:10:23,000 --> 00:10:25,640 He had many mistresses, he was a great romancer, 170 00:10:25,640 --> 00:10:28,160 he was the King of England, for goodness' sake! 171 00:10:28,160 --> 00:10:31,440 What evidence do we have that he was so besotted by her? 172 00:10:31,440 --> 00:10:35,120 We have this series of fantastic letters that Henry wrote to Anne. 173 00:10:35,120 --> 00:10:38,240 In this first one here he talks of being in great agony, 174 00:10:38,240 --> 00:10:41,480 you know, having been stricken with the dart of love, 175 00:10:41,480 --> 00:10:44,440 and one of the later ones here, clearly something has happened 176 00:10:44,440 --> 00:10:46,240 by this stage between Henry and Anne, 177 00:10:46,240 --> 00:10:49,920 because he talks about wishing himself in his sweetheart's arms, 178 00:10:49,920 --> 00:10:51,920 especially late at night, you know. 179 00:10:51,920 --> 00:10:54,360 "I'm now writing this shorter letter to you at this time 180 00:10:54,360 --> 00:10:57,600 "because of some pain in my head, wishing myself, 181 00:10:57,600 --> 00:11:00,160 "especially at evening, in my sweetheart's arms, 182 00:11:00,160 --> 00:11:04,640 "whose pretty dukkys I trust shortly to kiss." 183 00:11:04,640 --> 00:11:05,480 Indeed. 184 00:11:05,480 --> 00:11:07,240 He didn't mean that kind of duckie, did he? 185 00:11:07,240 --> 00:11:08,240 He certainly didn't! 186 00:11:13,640 --> 00:11:17,280 Henry and Anne's love story has become a romantic classic, 187 00:11:17,280 --> 00:11:20,400 retold and embellished by each and every generation. 188 00:11:24,000 --> 00:11:28,560 But behind his racy writing, Henry had a serious purpose. 189 00:11:28,560 --> 00:11:29,880 He was chasing the male heir 190 00:11:29,880 --> 00:11:33,520 that his first wife Catherine had failed to produce. 191 00:11:33,520 --> 00:11:36,440 Thomas Boleyn knew that and, unlike his neighbour, 192 00:11:36,440 --> 00:11:40,520 the Duke of Buckingham, he managed the fiery-tempered king well 193 00:11:40,520 --> 00:11:43,760 and positioned his younger daughter very well. 194 00:11:47,360 --> 00:11:49,520 Anne Boleyn would never have got where she did 195 00:11:49,520 --> 00:11:53,640 if it hadn't been for one thing - her dad's money. 196 00:11:53,640 --> 00:11:56,440 So the question now is, "Where did that come from?" 197 00:12:06,384 --> 00:12:10,184 My walking quest to reveal the extraordinary transformation 198 00:12:10,184 --> 00:12:11,864 that took place here in the Weald 199 00:12:11,864 --> 00:12:15,184 has already shown me how fast people could rise and fall 200 00:12:15,184 --> 00:12:17,344 in the court of Henry VIII. 201 00:12:19,304 --> 00:12:22,624 But all this politicking, all the machinery of patronage, 202 00:12:22,624 --> 00:12:26,024 would have ground to a halt if hadn't been for one simple thing - 203 00:12:26,024 --> 00:12:27,504 money. 204 00:12:27,504 --> 00:12:29,304 The court around King Henry VIII 205 00:12:29,304 --> 00:12:31,744 was full of rich, showy people, 206 00:12:31,744 --> 00:12:36,464 and if you were an aspiring family who wanted to break into that charmed circle, 207 00:12:36,464 --> 00:12:39,104 you had to splash the cash. 208 00:12:39,104 --> 00:12:42,184 But where were you going to get it from? 209 00:12:42,184 --> 00:12:44,504 The old way was simply to inherit. 210 00:12:44,504 --> 00:12:48,024 But today I'm exploring an incredible new path to riches 211 00:12:48,024 --> 00:12:50,144 and power in Tudor England. 212 00:12:52,264 --> 00:12:56,464 Having spent the night in Cowden, day two of my walk winds south, 213 00:12:56,464 --> 00:12:59,224 crossing from Kent into East Sussex 214 00:12:59,224 --> 00:13:01,544 to the edge of the great Ashdown Forest. 215 00:13:04,784 --> 00:13:05,904 Back in the open air. 216 00:13:07,184 --> 00:13:12,144 Unbelievably, while Henry was chopping and changing his courtiers, 217 00:13:12,144 --> 00:13:14,064 the whole of this quiet area 218 00:13:14,064 --> 00:13:17,464 resounded to the noise of heavy manufacturing. 219 00:13:17,464 --> 00:13:20,824 Almost three centuries before the Industrial Revolution, 220 00:13:20,824 --> 00:13:25,264 the Weald was the setting for an era-defining transformation - 221 00:13:25,264 --> 00:13:29,624 the rise of a major iron industry. 222 00:13:29,624 --> 00:13:30,744 Hi, Jeremy! 223 00:13:30,744 --> 00:13:32,184 Hi, Tony! 224 00:13:32,184 --> 00:13:34,384 There are few traces of that industry left today, 225 00:13:34,384 --> 00:13:36,784 but I've wandered a mile north of Cowden 226 00:13:36,784 --> 00:13:39,504 as I've been invited to drop in on Crippenden Manor. 227 00:13:39,504 --> 00:13:43,224 It was built just after 1600 with new industrial wealth, 228 00:13:43,224 --> 00:13:46,544 and it's retained a few clues from its past. 229 00:13:49,424 --> 00:13:50,424 This is it? 230 00:13:50,424 --> 00:13:51,864 This is it, yes. 231 00:13:51,864 --> 00:13:53,064 Wow... It's a cannon. 232 00:13:53,064 --> 00:13:57,584 It's a cannon. A 16th century cannon. And what is more it was made locally. 233 00:13:57,584 --> 00:14:01,264 I didn't realise that they made weapons around here? 234 00:14:01,264 --> 00:14:03,744 They did, it was a big industry in Tudor times. 235 00:14:03,744 --> 00:14:04,824 And it's made of...? 236 00:14:04,824 --> 00:14:08,104 Cast iron. And that was one of the new things about it. 237 00:14:08,104 --> 00:14:10,064 It was a new type of gun. 238 00:14:10,064 --> 00:14:13,304 Iron was cheaper than bronze, much easier to get hold of, 239 00:14:13,304 --> 00:14:15,664 and that was the big advantage. 240 00:14:15,664 --> 00:14:17,624 We don't know what it's doing here? 241 00:14:17,624 --> 00:14:21,144 Well, we do know what it's doing here - the gun itself was a reject. 242 00:14:21,144 --> 00:14:24,544 We know because various features on it indicate that. 243 00:14:24,544 --> 00:14:30,504 For example here, you've a sizable blemish on the side of the gun. 244 00:14:30,504 --> 00:14:32,944 Clearly, there was a fault in the casting. 245 00:14:32,944 --> 00:14:35,904 Up at the front here, you've got these holes, 246 00:14:35,904 --> 00:14:39,824 and these rather badly damaged pieces at the front. 247 00:14:39,824 --> 00:14:43,984 It was discarded because of something going wrong in the casting. 248 00:14:45,704 --> 00:14:47,944 Ironically, the Crippenden cannon's failure 249 00:14:47,944 --> 00:14:52,504 means it's still here in the Weald, 450 years after it was cast. 250 00:14:54,304 --> 00:14:58,264 But dozens more like it would have been in use at the many forts 251 00:14:58,264 --> 00:15:01,304 Henry had built to protect the south coast. 252 00:15:01,304 --> 00:15:05,544 The king himself was encouraging the expansion of a new economy. 253 00:15:08,544 --> 00:15:09,984 Why? Why here? 254 00:15:09,984 --> 00:15:12,784 Well, the answer is in my pocket... 255 00:15:12,784 --> 00:15:15,064 That. Which is iron ore. 256 00:15:16,384 --> 00:15:19,824 The sort of iron ore you'd find locally. 257 00:15:19,824 --> 00:15:21,184 It's... Well, feel it. 258 00:15:22,304 --> 00:15:24,544 It's quite distinctly heavy, isn't it? 259 00:15:24,544 --> 00:15:26,144 It is, isn't it? 260 00:15:26,144 --> 00:15:30,024 'Rocks like this were extracted from thin seams of iron ore, 261 00:15:30,024 --> 00:15:31,624 'just below ground level. 262 00:15:31,624 --> 00:15:35,264 'These seams which were laid down millions of years ago 263 00:15:35,264 --> 00:15:37,784 'were soon found right across the Weald.' 264 00:15:37,784 --> 00:15:41,744 In Henry VIII's time, who would have been involved in this industry? 265 00:15:41,744 --> 00:15:43,544 It was a money-making business, really. 266 00:15:43,544 --> 00:15:47,584 Local landowners like Thomas Boleyn and his brother, for example, 267 00:15:47,584 --> 00:15:51,424 they were either lessees or owners of iron works. 268 00:15:51,424 --> 00:15:53,224 And to help me on my way, 269 00:15:53,224 --> 00:15:56,904 Jeremy's giving me a copy of an iron industry map. 270 00:15:56,904 --> 00:16:00,824 An 18th century plan of the site that produced the Crippenden cannon. 271 00:16:00,824 --> 00:16:02,264 Thank you very much. And you can have your iron back. 272 00:16:02,264 --> 00:16:04,064 Thank you. 273 00:16:04,064 --> 00:16:04,864 Cheers, Jeremy. Bye! 274 00:16:04,864 --> 00:16:05,864 Cheerio. 275 00:16:11,384 --> 00:16:14,704 The Boleyn family were quick to invest in the new industry, 276 00:16:14,704 --> 00:16:19,584 but over time the likes of merchants and even clergymen got involved, 277 00:16:19,584 --> 00:16:20,904 producing not just weapons, 278 00:16:20,904 --> 00:16:24,584 but agricultural and domestic iron products, too. 279 00:16:25,784 --> 00:16:29,464 By the end of Henry's reign, the Weald was intensely exploited 280 00:16:29,464 --> 00:16:32,224 with 50 furnaces and forges. 281 00:16:32,224 --> 00:16:36,224 But today you have to look carefully to find the clues in the landscape. 282 00:16:41,024 --> 00:16:42,944 That's quite a sight, isn't it? 283 00:16:42,944 --> 00:16:45,384 Tucked away behind the back of a little lane. 284 00:16:47,024 --> 00:16:51,424 In 1500, there would have been no more than a stream here. 285 00:16:51,424 --> 00:16:53,384 The creation of Cowden Furnace, though, 286 00:16:53,384 --> 00:16:57,664 led to a perfectly straight dam wall being constructed, 287 00:16:57,664 --> 00:17:01,184 still evident at the end of the pond. 288 00:17:01,184 --> 00:17:05,904 It gathered enough water to power the production of 200 tons of iron a year. 289 00:17:07,384 --> 00:17:10,344 This valley would have been an industrial complex, 290 00:17:10,344 --> 00:17:14,544 but today, it's quite a challenge to work out. 291 00:17:15,904 --> 00:17:18,144 Right, it says Furnace Pond. 292 00:17:18,144 --> 00:17:22,784 So that's a bit of a clue, isn't it? 293 00:17:22,784 --> 00:17:26,224 Actually, it should be the other way round, 294 00:17:26,224 --> 00:17:30,664 so if I compare it with Jeremy's map... 295 00:17:33,144 --> 00:17:35,784 Beautiful, isn't it? 296 00:17:35,784 --> 00:17:40,744 So, yeah, that's the flat bit there - 297 00:17:40,744 --> 00:17:44,864 that must be the dam with the furnace behind it, 298 00:17:44,864 --> 00:17:47,784 so it must be over in this direction here somewhere. 299 00:17:53,744 --> 00:17:57,824 Sadly, at the end of Furnace Pond in Cowden, 300 00:17:57,824 --> 00:18:01,664 all the iron industry buildings disappeared over 200 years ago. 301 00:18:05,704 --> 00:18:08,584 What really intrigues me is this quarry. 302 00:18:08,584 --> 00:18:12,824 Because the furnaces were made of stone. 303 00:18:12,824 --> 00:18:15,304 So, it seems to me quite plausible 304 00:18:15,304 --> 00:18:20,144 that they could have got the stone for that furnace from here. 305 00:18:20,144 --> 00:18:22,904 And the other thing is that the slag, the residue, 306 00:18:22,904 --> 00:18:27,344 they just chucked away, and it was left lying all over the place. 307 00:18:27,344 --> 00:18:31,464 So if I poke around for a bit, I hopefully... 308 00:18:32,584 --> 00:18:37,104 Presenters always find it straight away on telly, don't they? 309 00:18:37,104 --> 00:18:41,024 Yay! There you are, got my presenter's badge. 310 00:18:41,024 --> 00:18:42,824 Bit of slag. 311 00:18:47,064 --> 00:18:49,424 The innovation behind this entire economy 312 00:18:49,424 --> 00:18:51,904 was the blast furnace itself. 313 00:18:51,904 --> 00:18:56,224 It allowed iron to be produced on an industrial scale for the first time. 314 00:18:58,544 --> 00:19:00,064 Far from leading the way, though, 315 00:19:00,064 --> 00:19:04,464 England had to import the furnace technology, and the skilled workers, 316 00:19:04,464 --> 00:19:06,784 from across the Channel. 317 00:19:06,784 --> 00:19:09,544 But being close to the Continent, close to London, 318 00:19:09,544 --> 00:19:13,864 and with plenty of iron ore, the Weald was ideally positioned. 319 00:19:15,304 --> 00:19:16,704 By the late 16th century, 320 00:19:16,704 --> 00:19:19,824 iron was a multi-million pound business in modern terms, 321 00:19:19,824 --> 00:19:23,984 making its leaders new fortunes, and showing that under Henry, 322 00:19:23,984 --> 00:19:27,624 the national economy was about more than just farming. 323 00:19:35,784 --> 00:19:38,704 Leaving Cowden, I'm also leaving Kent, 324 00:19:38,704 --> 00:19:42,504 as this valley marks the point where I cross over into East Sussex. 325 00:19:43,544 --> 00:19:47,104 And I'm entering a place where industrial history 326 00:19:47,104 --> 00:19:49,064 is definitely not the attraction. 327 00:19:58,984 --> 00:20:00,544 Look at this path now. 328 00:20:00,544 --> 00:20:03,144 Beautifully clear across this field. 329 00:20:03,144 --> 00:20:07,464 Well maintained. Not a nettle in sight, used regularly. 330 00:20:08,744 --> 00:20:11,984 Welcome to the world of Winnie the Pooh! 331 00:20:15,184 --> 00:20:18,024 My path is passing close to Cotchford Farm, 332 00:20:18,024 --> 00:20:20,944 once the home of AA Milne. 333 00:20:20,944 --> 00:20:24,584 He was born in London and spent years working as a playwright, 334 00:20:24,584 --> 00:20:27,864 but a move to the country in 1925 335 00:20:27,864 --> 00:20:31,944 inspired the magical world of Pooh Bear and his friends. 336 00:20:33,304 --> 00:20:36,464 Milne wrote the stories for his young son Christopher Robin, 337 00:20:36,464 --> 00:20:41,184 but the inspiration and ideas for Pooh's adventures came from this, 338 00:20:41,184 --> 00:20:42,864 their local landscape. 339 00:20:44,624 --> 00:20:47,704 Including the ever popular Pooh Bridge. 340 00:20:52,984 --> 00:20:55,824 And anyone with an affection for the Pooh stories 341 00:20:55,824 --> 00:20:58,904 will know that a simple accident with a fir cone 342 00:20:58,904 --> 00:21:02,344 led to the discovery of a much-loved game. 343 00:21:07,344 --> 00:21:08,944 "That's funny," said Pooh. 344 00:21:08,944 --> 00:21:13,144 "I dropped it on the other side... and it came out on this side! 345 00:21:14,184 --> 00:21:17,344 "I wonder if it would do it again?" 346 00:21:17,344 --> 00:21:20,464 It did. It kept on doing it. 347 00:21:20,464 --> 00:21:23,584 And that was the beginning of the game called Poohsticks, 348 00:21:23,584 --> 00:21:25,264 which Pooh invented, 349 00:21:25,264 --> 00:21:29,424 and which he and his friends used to play on the edge of the forest. 350 00:21:31,704 --> 00:21:33,824 Right, c'mon. Other side. 351 00:21:35,064 --> 00:21:36,344 Let's see him come out. 352 00:21:39,264 --> 00:21:41,304 My money's on the big one. 353 00:21:41,304 --> 00:21:43,704 Yay. There's one! Yes! 354 00:21:44,944 --> 00:21:48,824 But you see that water there, how it's reddy-brown? 355 00:21:48,824 --> 00:21:55,344 That's a clear indication there's iron in the underlying rocks there. 356 00:21:57,984 --> 00:22:02,064 Even here, on the edge of Pooh's magical Hundred Acre Wood, 357 00:22:02,064 --> 00:22:05,584 there are signs of the area's real past. 358 00:22:05,584 --> 00:22:09,824 Believe it or not, the home of Poohsticks was once a Tudor forge! 359 00:22:12,944 --> 00:22:15,984 All over here would have been flooded, all that field, 360 00:22:15,984 --> 00:22:19,104 right down probably as far as the digger. 361 00:22:19,104 --> 00:22:22,784 And the water would have been held back by a dam that was here. 362 00:22:22,784 --> 00:22:27,304 You can see a bit of it now, and all the rest is eroded. 363 00:22:27,304 --> 00:22:30,264 And there would have been a forge here. 364 00:22:30,264 --> 00:22:32,504 I can't imagine that Winnie the Pooh 365 00:22:32,504 --> 00:22:35,784 would have been particularly pleased by the noise of a hammer 366 00:22:35,784 --> 00:22:38,064 slamming down on red hot iron. 367 00:22:38,064 --> 00:22:40,784 Eeyore would have been furious. 368 00:22:45,704 --> 00:22:47,824 It's time for me to leave Pooh, his friends, 369 00:22:47,824 --> 00:22:50,024 and the iron-masters behind me. 370 00:22:52,224 --> 00:22:55,744 It's strange to think of the Weald as an industrial powerhouse, 371 00:22:55,744 --> 00:22:58,984 and to be fair, it was a short-lived role for the area. 372 00:23:01,104 --> 00:23:03,904 Iron was found elsewhere, cheap coal too. 373 00:23:03,904 --> 00:23:07,344 And just 200 years after it had arrived, 374 00:23:07,344 --> 00:23:11,264 the industry that changed the face of the south east disappeared. 375 00:23:17,864 --> 00:23:21,624 For me tomorrow, it's on to the great Ashdown Forest, 376 00:23:21,624 --> 00:23:24,024 and the Tudor sport of kings. 377 00:23:33,144 --> 00:23:36,264 It's day three of my walk through the Weald. 378 00:23:36,264 --> 00:23:38,984 Having spent the night in the village of Hartfield, 379 00:23:38,984 --> 00:23:43,584 I'm heading for a cup of tea in the tiny hamlet of Colemans Hatch. 380 00:23:43,584 --> 00:23:47,864 Yesterday I was uncovering the traces of the incredible 381 00:23:47,864 --> 00:23:51,184 iron industry that made such an impact here 500 years ago. 382 00:23:52,704 --> 00:23:57,144 Today I'm going to leave the sweat and noise of the furnaces behind 383 00:23:57,144 --> 00:24:01,064 to take a look at another one of Henry VIII's legacies. 384 00:24:01,064 --> 00:24:04,344 This is the Ashdown Forest, which has remained pretty much 385 00:24:04,344 --> 00:24:07,024 untouched for the last thousand years. 386 00:24:07,024 --> 00:24:10,944 And all this area here, as we've seen, was completely 387 00:24:10,944 --> 00:24:15,144 turned on its head by the Tudor iron industry. 388 00:24:15,144 --> 00:24:19,944 But here has remained virtually pristine. I want to find out why. 389 00:24:22,424 --> 00:24:27,464 Ashdown today remains the biggest public space in south-east England. 390 00:24:27,464 --> 00:24:31,224 It sits across a sandy ridge at the top of the High Weald. 391 00:24:31,224 --> 00:24:34,744 Reaching 200 metres high in places, 392 00:24:34,744 --> 00:24:37,384 the forest makes for some great walking. 393 00:24:42,144 --> 00:24:44,104 That's pretty nice, isn't it? 394 00:24:44,104 --> 00:24:46,664 I sometimes forget how spectacular 395 00:24:46,664 --> 00:24:49,704 some of the views in southern England are. 396 00:24:49,704 --> 00:24:54,944 That's Kent there, where I've come from, and over there's Surrey. 397 00:24:54,944 --> 00:24:59,024 You see the ridge of the North Downs? 398 00:24:59,024 --> 00:25:00,224 All very nice. 399 00:25:01,504 --> 00:25:03,784 Morning! 400 00:25:03,784 --> 00:25:06,544 But Ashdown doesn't seem like much of a forest, 401 00:25:06,544 --> 00:25:10,264 at least not in the modern, densely wooded sense. 402 00:25:10,264 --> 00:25:13,784 Ashdown though is as true a forest as you could hope to find. 403 00:25:13,784 --> 00:25:17,864 It was the Normans who first introduced the concept. 404 00:25:17,864 --> 00:25:20,344 For them, a forest wasn't defined by what grew in it, 405 00:25:20,344 --> 00:25:25,904 but by a strict set of rules governing what went on in it, 406 00:25:25,904 --> 00:25:27,744 be it woodland, heath or grass. 407 00:25:27,744 --> 00:25:30,864 Applied to vast tracts of land, 408 00:25:30,864 --> 00:25:34,384 these rules were designed above all 409 00:25:34,384 --> 00:25:38,144 to support a very important activity - hunting. 410 00:25:38,144 --> 00:25:40,504 And if there's one thing we know about Henry VIII, 411 00:25:40,504 --> 00:25:44,664 it's that he loved hunting almost as much as he loved women. 412 00:25:44,664 --> 00:25:47,784 So I'm heading to one of the forest's landmarks, 413 00:25:47,784 --> 00:25:50,704 and one of its finest viewpoints, 414 00:25:50,704 --> 00:25:52,944 because to this day, it's got a distinct connection 415 00:25:52,944 --> 00:25:54,304 with the Tudor king. 416 00:25:54,304 --> 00:25:55,304 Hi, Chris. 417 00:25:55,304 --> 00:25:56,664 Hello, Tony. How are you? 418 00:25:56,664 --> 00:25:59,024 All right. This is King's Standing, isn't it? 419 00:25:59,024 --> 00:26:00,664 It is, yes. 420 00:26:00,664 --> 00:26:04,504 I've read that this was the site of Henry VIII's hunting lodge. 421 00:26:04,504 --> 00:26:05,424 Is that right? 422 00:26:05,424 --> 00:26:06,784 Well, apparently so. 423 00:26:06,784 --> 00:26:09,344 We don't know that Henry VIII ever came here. 424 00:26:09,344 --> 00:26:10,024 Oh! 425 00:26:10,024 --> 00:26:11,744 It's a great shame, isn't it? 426 00:26:11,744 --> 00:26:13,384 But we're pretty certain 427 00:26:13,384 --> 00:26:17,704 that there was something here at least from the 14th century onwards. 428 00:26:17,704 --> 00:26:20,144 What do you mean, there was something here? 429 00:26:20,144 --> 00:26:23,584 Well, the name Standing is a good clue. 430 00:26:23,584 --> 00:26:27,424 We think that standings in relation to a forest where 431 00:26:27,424 --> 00:26:31,024 they are hunting deer would have been somewhere where they came and 432 00:26:31,024 --> 00:26:36,144 the hunters, their followers, they would have been here perhaps under a 433 00:26:36,144 --> 00:26:40,944 shelter and they'd have watched the deer being driven past and shot at. 434 00:26:40,944 --> 00:26:42,584 You can imagine being a king, 435 00:26:42,584 --> 00:26:45,344 standing here looking at all the deer below you. 436 00:26:45,344 --> 00:26:47,864 Absolutely, it would have been a fantastic spectacle. 437 00:26:47,864 --> 00:26:49,224 It's a great view. 438 00:26:49,224 --> 00:26:50,224 Absolutely. 439 00:26:52,584 --> 00:26:56,504 Here, just a day's ride from London, the great and the good of the Tudor 440 00:26:56,504 --> 00:27:02,344 world had 14,000 acres to hunt in. A day with Henry and his entourage 441 00:27:02,344 --> 00:27:05,864 would have been the greatest networking opportunity of the age. 442 00:27:05,864 --> 00:27:10,144 But for the king himself, hunting was pure escapism, 443 00:27:10,144 --> 00:27:13,584 away from the prying eyes of court life. 444 00:27:13,584 --> 00:27:17,344 So it's no surprise that hunting trips often became thinly veiled 445 00:27:17,344 --> 00:27:20,144 excuses to court a chosen lady. 446 00:27:20,144 --> 00:27:23,144 For the seven years of their courtship 447 00:27:23,144 --> 00:27:26,024 it's believed that Anne Boleyn rode out alongside Henry 448 00:27:26,024 --> 00:27:27,344 on several occasions. 449 00:27:28,744 --> 00:27:30,704 And even when she wasn't there, 450 00:27:30,704 --> 00:27:32,984 we know Henry was still thinking of her. 451 00:27:34,504 --> 00:27:37,984 "To cause you yet oftener to remember me, 452 00:27:37,984 --> 00:27:43,504 "I send you, by the bearer of this, a buck killed late last night 453 00:27:43,504 --> 00:27:44,944 "by my own hand, 454 00:27:44,944 --> 00:27:50,224 "hoping that when you eat of it you may think of the hunter." 455 00:27:51,584 --> 00:27:53,304 Is it true you get snakes up here? 456 00:27:53,304 --> 00:27:56,144 It is indeed. You get adders. 457 00:27:56,144 --> 00:27:58,304 What, the little diamond-backed ones? 458 00:27:58,304 --> 00:28:00,504 That's right and occasionally some black adders. 459 00:28:00,504 --> 00:28:02,144 You're winding me up! 460 00:28:02,144 --> 00:28:05,424 No, when we were out here earlier on we did actually see 461 00:28:05,424 --> 00:28:06,944 a black adder. 462 00:28:10,144 --> 00:28:12,504 The rules of the forest allowed locals 463 00:28:12,504 --> 00:28:15,864 limited rights to gather wood and graze their animals, 464 00:28:15,864 --> 00:28:18,984 which helped maintain the sporting terrain. 465 00:28:21,344 --> 00:28:23,544 It was a low-key form of land management 466 00:28:23,544 --> 00:28:26,064 that had worked very well for generations. 467 00:28:31,264 --> 00:28:33,864 But for the first time under Henry, 468 00:28:33,864 --> 00:28:37,424 there was now real pressure on the land of the forest. 469 00:28:37,424 --> 00:28:39,504 The iron industry was all around 470 00:28:39,504 --> 00:28:42,544 and looking enviously at the undeveloped Ashdown. 471 00:28:43,704 --> 00:28:46,704 Here was land where more iron ore could be found. 472 00:28:46,704 --> 00:28:49,424 And to keep the furnaces burning? 473 00:28:49,424 --> 00:28:53,424 Well, the forest had tons and tons of timber. 474 00:28:55,384 --> 00:28:57,224 It's up here somewhere, I promise. 475 00:28:57,224 --> 00:29:01,424 So Chris is leading me to the western edge of Ashdown, 476 00:29:01,424 --> 00:29:06,624 to show me the decisive action Henry took to ensure the forest's future. 477 00:29:08,544 --> 00:29:10,984 OK, Tony, this is what I've brought you to see. 478 00:29:10,984 --> 00:29:13,344 Strewth! You don't often see something like this 479 00:29:13,344 --> 00:29:14,144 sticking out of a forest, do you? 480 00:29:14,144 --> 00:29:16,544 No. This is the pale. 481 00:29:16,544 --> 00:29:19,464 This originally surrounded all of Ashdown Forest. 482 00:29:19,464 --> 00:29:20,344 What's a pale? 483 00:29:20,344 --> 00:29:26,184 It comes from the word palisade and it means the bank and ditch 484 00:29:26,184 --> 00:29:28,904 and the fence that surrounded the forest. 485 00:29:28,904 --> 00:29:32,384 Its main function was to keep deer in and poachers out. 486 00:29:32,384 --> 00:29:34,544 How long has there been something like this here? 487 00:29:34,544 --> 00:29:37,224 Well, the original pale was built by the Normans. 488 00:29:37,224 --> 00:29:40,904 So we're going back to perhaps the 13th century. 489 00:29:40,904 --> 00:29:44,184 This pale was probably built by Henry VIII. 490 00:29:44,184 --> 00:29:47,184 We have a record in 1521 where he commands 491 00:29:47,184 --> 00:29:50,304 that the pale around Ashdown is rebuilt. 492 00:29:50,304 --> 00:29:52,464 The whole thing is about 26 miles. 493 00:29:52,464 --> 00:29:55,824 So you might have had a bank up to say about here 494 00:29:55,824 --> 00:29:58,944 and then sticks all the way around. 495 00:29:58,944 --> 00:30:00,184 Yes. 496 00:30:00,184 --> 00:30:02,544 Why do you think Henry saw the need to do this? 497 00:30:02,544 --> 00:30:06,784 Maybe he liked hunting, and I think the most important thing, 498 00:30:06,784 --> 00:30:08,024 it's a status symbol. 499 00:30:11,584 --> 00:30:13,984 So here, in the face of modern industry, 500 00:30:13,984 --> 00:30:19,024 the modernising king was keen to preserve one of the old traditions. 501 00:30:19,024 --> 00:30:21,624 If he hadn't acted to save his hunting land, 502 00:30:21,624 --> 00:30:24,984 the forest we still enjoy today might have been overrun 503 00:30:24,984 --> 00:30:26,144 centuries ago. 504 00:30:34,184 --> 00:30:36,624 As I leave the wild heathland of the forest, 505 00:30:36,624 --> 00:30:40,784 I'm heading south-west through delightful Sussex villages 506 00:30:40,784 --> 00:30:42,664 like Fairwarp and Buxted. 507 00:30:43,824 --> 00:30:46,184 The landscape becomes cosier, more gentle, 508 00:30:46,184 --> 00:30:49,944 and there's a noticeable return to the world of agriculture. 509 00:30:53,184 --> 00:30:55,344 Look at those. Aren't they fantastic? 510 00:30:55,344 --> 00:30:58,304 Anyone who's been to this part of England 511 00:30:58,304 --> 00:31:01,864 will be familiar with that sight - oast houses! 512 00:31:01,864 --> 00:31:05,864 They were used to dry the hops when they'd just been harvested. 513 00:31:05,864 --> 00:31:10,904 They're an icon of East Sussex and Kent. Elegant, unmistakable. 514 00:31:10,904 --> 00:31:12,304 Love them! 515 00:31:16,064 --> 00:31:18,824 But oast houses are more than just cute little objects 516 00:31:18,824 --> 00:31:21,064 that you stick on the front of a tourist brochure. 517 00:31:21,064 --> 00:31:23,664 They're symbols of another revolution 518 00:31:23,664 --> 00:31:25,784 that took place in Henry's time. 519 00:31:25,784 --> 00:31:29,504 Not an industrial revolution or a political one - 520 00:31:29,504 --> 00:31:31,664 a beer revolution! 521 00:31:33,744 --> 00:31:37,544 It's well known that Henry and his friends enjoyed a good drink. 522 00:31:37,544 --> 00:31:40,264 It's less known that the traditional hops of Kent 523 00:31:40,264 --> 00:31:43,504 and East Sussex are nothing of the sort. 524 00:31:43,504 --> 00:31:47,264 In fact, they're a foreign import brought in from the Netherlands 525 00:31:47,264 --> 00:31:51,144 with the foreigners now working in the booming local economy. 526 00:31:53,584 --> 00:31:56,704 But to really understand the drinking revolution 527 00:31:56,704 --> 00:32:00,064 that resulted, I'm dropping in on a brewing expert 528 00:32:00,064 --> 00:32:03,864 at a 600-year-old inn, here in the village of Blackboys. 529 00:32:06,944 --> 00:32:09,784 It's called the Blackboys. Is that a slavery thing? 530 00:32:09,784 --> 00:32:10,824 No. Well, I hope not. 531 00:32:10,824 --> 00:32:15,864 We think it's derived from the Tudor iron industry, 532 00:32:15,864 --> 00:32:19,664 where the charcoal burners would have come in for a drink 533 00:32:19,664 --> 00:32:24,584 with rather sooted black faces and it got the nickname from that. 534 00:32:24,584 --> 00:32:28,104 It's odd, this thing about beer, because I had always assumed 535 00:32:28,104 --> 00:32:31,584 that beer was the quintessential English drink. 536 00:32:31,584 --> 00:32:33,824 In those days they would have been drinking ale. 537 00:32:33,824 --> 00:32:35,304 So what's the difference? 538 00:32:35,304 --> 00:32:38,344 Ale is an alcoholic beverage produced from barley 539 00:32:38,344 --> 00:32:39,904 without the use of hops, 540 00:32:39,904 --> 00:32:43,264 whereas beer, from the Flemish "bier", is an alcoholic beverage 541 00:32:43,264 --> 00:32:45,504 brewed from barley with the use of hops. 542 00:32:45,504 --> 00:32:49,824 We first saw beer in 1400, imported from Europe. 543 00:32:49,824 --> 00:32:53,384 But we were actually growing hops in 1520 in this country. 544 00:32:53,384 --> 00:32:55,784 Do we have any idea what the ale that they would have been 545 00:32:55,784 --> 00:32:59,184 drinking around here before Tudor times would have been like? 546 00:32:59,184 --> 00:33:03,304 Well, we do. This is actually produced without hops. 547 00:33:03,304 --> 00:33:08,024 It has in it a herb called sweet gale or bog myrtle. 548 00:33:08,024 --> 00:33:15,664 And this really is the nearest thing you'll get to the sort of ale 549 00:33:15,664 --> 00:33:19,824 that was being drunk in the Middle Ages. 550 00:33:19,824 --> 00:33:20,304 Cheers! 551 00:33:20,304 --> 00:33:21,384 Your good health. 552 00:33:21,384 --> 00:33:23,864 Right, this is the old ale... 553 00:33:26,024 --> 00:33:27,424 Mmm... 554 00:33:27,424 --> 00:33:30,664 It's like one of those rather sweet 555 00:33:30,664 --> 00:33:34,944 bottled beers that you used to drink when I started drinking in the '60s. 556 00:33:34,944 --> 00:33:37,504 Yes, very sweet and without that characteristic hop. 557 00:33:37,504 --> 00:33:38,584 Yeah. 558 00:33:38,584 --> 00:33:42,624 And as for the beer brewed here since Tudor times, well, you 559 00:33:42,624 --> 00:33:46,624 only have to walk into any pub in the land to sample that. 560 00:33:46,624 --> 00:33:50,664 Hopped beer has hardly changed in 500 years. 561 00:33:50,664 --> 00:33:54,544 Well, I'll certainly be eternally grateful to our Tudor forebears 562 00:33:54,544 --> 00:33:56,664 and their little bit of Flemish magic. 563 00:33:56,664 --> 00:33:59,864 Certainly had a profound influence on me over the years. 564 00:33:59,864 --> 00:34:02,704 But as I seem by some eerie coincidence - cheers! - 565 00:34:02,704 --> 00:34:05,144 to have found myself in a bar, 566 00:34:05,144 --> 00:34:07,304 I think we'll knock today's walk on the head. 567 00:34:07,304 --> 00:34:10,344 One more day. Tomorrow, it's the South Downs 568 00:34:10,344 --> 00:34:13,144 and the greatest of all of Henry's legacies. 569 00:34:27,864 --> 00:34:29,384 I've been discovering 570 00:34:29,384 --> 00:34:32,144 that events here around the landscape of the Weald 571 00:34:32,144 --> 00:34:35,584 changed our history in the time of Henry VIII. 572 00:34:35,584 --> 00:34:38,944 But after three days walking from Kent into East Sussex, 573 00:34:38,944 --> 00:34:42,224 I'm on the home stretch. 574 00:34:42,224 --> 00:34:44,424 My route from Blackboys to Lewes 575 00:34:44,424 --> 00:34:47,864 heads south-west across the marshy Sussex levels, 576 00:34:47,864 --> 00:34:51,584 before reaching the sizeable bulk of the South Downs 577 00:34:51,584 --> 00:34:55,024 and my final destination of the county town. 578 00:34:58,104 --> 00:35:00,944 Of all the changes that took place in Henry's reign, 579 00:35:00,944 --> 00:35:05,144 there's one that sticks out and that is the Reformation. 580 00:35:05,144 --> 00:35:08,024 There can't be many moments in English history 581 00:35:08,024 --> 00:35:10,024 that had such a profound impact. 582 00:35:10,024 --> 00:35:12,384 And I'm off to the town of Lewes, 583 00:35:12,384 --> 00:35:14,864 because that was such an important centre 584 00:35:14,864 --> 00:35:19,504 for this dramatic and often violent transformation. 585 00:35:26,144 --> 00:35:28,864 The Reformation was the great religious schism 586 00:35:28,864 --> 00:35:31,864 that saw England part company with the Catholic faith, 587 00:35:31,864 --> 00:35:34,984 establishing itself as a Protestant kingdom. 588 00:35:36,544 --> 00:35:39,744 Henry forced this change through during the 1530s, 589 00:35:39,744 --> 00:35:43,344 the most tumultuous decade of his reign. 590 00:35:43,344 --> 00:35:46,144 It was a period when religion, politics 591 00:35:46,144 --> 00:35:49,664 and the king's personal life all collided. 592 00:36:00,184 --> 00:36:01,944 Seven miles out from Lewes, 593 00:36:01,944 --> 00:36:05,344 I'm crossing the broad floodplains of the Laughton Levels 594 00:36:05,344 --> 00:36:08,104 to find a remarkable snapshot of English life 595 00:36:08,104 --> 00:36:10,344 on the eve of the Reformation, 596 00:36:10,344 --> 00:36:13,584 because it was here at the start of the 1530s 597 00:36:13,584 --> 00:36:16,704 that the royal courtier Sir William Pelham 598 00:36:16,704 --> 00:36:21,064 chose to build himself the finest Tudor home in the area. 599 00:36:21,064 --> 00:36:22,104 Hello. 600 00:36:22,104 --> 00:36:23,744 Welcome to Laughton Place. 601 00:36:23,744 --> 00:36:25,144 Thank you very much. 602 00:36:25,144 --> 00:36:26,944 Very nice to see you. 603 00:36:28,024 --> 00:36:30,744 What you have to imagine on this site, 604 00:36:30,744 --> 00:36:35,224 roughly bounded by the hedges today, would have been a great house, 605 00:36:35,224 --> 00:36:37,624 pretty much on the scale of Hever Castle, in fact. 606 00:36:37,624 --> 00:36:38,744 Wow! 607 00:36:38,744 --> 00:36:41,784 And this is all that remains of it. 608 00:36:41,784 --> 00:36:46,664 Apart from its size, what's so particular about the architecture? 609 00:36:46,664 --> 00:36:50,184 Well, there's the brickwork, which was a newly discovered technology 610 00:36:50,184 --> 00:36:52,344 and still very expensive, 611 00:36:52,344 --> 00:36:56,984 but the real glory is the fantastic terracotta decoration on the tower 612 00:36:56,984 --> 00:36:59,224 as you can see here on this window. 613 00:36:59,224 --> 00:37:03,984 And this was the latest fashion in the Tudor court in the 1530s, 614 00:37:03,984 --> 00:37:05,824 very Italianate. 615 00:37:05,824 --> 00:37:08,224 I suppose this is the time when Henry VIII 616 00:37:08,224 --> 00:37:11,504 is seeing himself very much as a sort of Renaissance prince 617 00:37:11,504 --> 00:37:14,224 and wants to be surrounded by this kind of thing. 618 00:37:14,224 --> 00:37:16,304 Absolutely. So for Sir William Pelham 619 00:37:16,304 --> 00:37:18,104 deep in the Sussex countryside, 620 00:37:18,104 --> 00:37:21,264 he's really bringing the latest London fashions 621 00:37:21,264 --> 00:37:23,944 down to his house and going for it! 622 00:37:23,944 --> 00:37:26,024 But it wasn't a fashion that lasted, was it? 623 00:37:26,024 --> 00:37:29,704 No, it didn't, because in the 1530s, of course, Henry VIII 624 00:37:29,704 --> 00:37:33,304 decides to break away from the Roman Catholic Church 625 00:37:33,304 --> 00:37:35,304 and from that point onwards 626 00:37:35,304 --> 00:37:39,304 anything remotely Italianate becomes slightly suspicious. 627 00:37:40,344 --> 00:37:43,784 So just as this fashion statement was completed, 628 00:37:43,784 --> 00:37:47,104 it was overtaken by national events. 629 00:37:47,104 --> 00:37:51,704 After seven years of waiting, Henry got his wish in 1533 630 00:37:51,704 --> 00:37:53,744 and married Anne Boleyn. 631 00:37:55,184 --> 00:37:57,904 The Boleyn family had reached the very top. 632 00:37:59,184 --> 00:38:01,824 But in declaring his first marriage invalid, 633 00:38:01,824 --> 00:38:05,224 Henry was wilfully ignoring the Pope's orders, 634 00:38:05,224 --> 00:38:07,984 for which he was excommunicated. 635 00:38:09,384 --> 00:38:11,984 As I head into the final stage of my walk, 636 00:38:11,984 --> 00:38:18,544 England was heading for a religious and political revolution. 637 00:38:36,504 --> 00:38:39,824 It's only when you stop that you get the reward 638 00:38:39,824 --> 00:38:44,024 of the fantastic views up here on the South Downs. 639 00:38:44,024 --> 00:38:50,264 Over there's the High Weald and Ashdown Forest, where I was. 640 00:38:50,264 --> 00:38:55,184 And over there...is the Levels that I've just come from. 641 00:38:56,384 --> 00:38:57,904 Very nice. 642 00:38:59,624 --> 00:39:03,224 The South Downs, which stretch from Eastbourne to Winchester, 643 00:39:03,224 --> 00:39:04,944 look out towards Europe 644 00:39:04,944 --> 00:39:08,504 and the Catholic powerbase from which England was soon to break. 645 00:39:10,864 --> 00:39:13,264 With Henry and the Pope now at loggerheads 646 00:39:13,264 --> 00:39:17,144 and with a Protestant mood for reform sweeping the nation, 647 00:39:17,144 --> 00:39:18,584 there was strong support 648 00:39:18,584 --> 00:39:22,984 for the King becoming supreme head of an independent Church of England. 649 00:39:31,304 --> 00:39:34,464 Henry was the figurehead of the English Reformation, 650 00:39:34,464 --> 00:39:40,384 but its chief strategist was his new right-hand man, Thomas Cromwell. 651 00:39:40,384 --> 00:39:44,744 By 1534, the King's chief minister had become a policy maker, 652 00:39:44,744 --> 00:39:48,144 spin doctor and enforcer rolled into one. 653 00:39:51,104 --> 00:39:53,144 As the lowly son of a Putney brewer, 654 00:39:53,144 --> 00:39:57,424 Cromwell was the archetypal new man of Henry's court. 655 00:39:57,424 --> 00:39:59,624 And the final destination of my walk 656 00:39:59,624 --> 00:40:03,264 is the perfect place to see Cromwell's work. 657 00:40:03,264 --> 00:40:07,024 In 1536, just three years into her marriage, 658 00:40:07,024 --> 00:40:11,464 Cromwell orchestrated the execution of the flirtatious Anne Boleyn, 659 00:40:11,464 --> 00:40:13,944 who'd failed to produce a male heir. 660 00:40:16,064 --> 00:40:18,144 But Cromwell's place in history 661 00:40:18,144 --> 00:40:21,824 comes as architect of the Dissolution of the Monasteries. 662 00:40:26,024 --> 00:40:27,624 The South Downs around Lewes 663 00:40:27,624 --> 00:40:31,784 would have once belonged to the priory of St Pancras. 664 00:40:31,784 --> 00:40:34,944 The priory was the richest religious house in Sussex 665 00:40:34,944 --> 00:40:40,264 and for 450 years it was the beating heart of the town. 666 00:40:40,264 --> 00:40:44,504 Cromwell's vision was to remove the Catholic threat of the monasteries 667 00:40:44,504 --> 00:40:47,064 and under the banner of religious reform 668 00:40:47,064 --> 00:40:51,304 bring about the greatest re-ordering of wealth and power since 1066. 669 00:40:52,544 --> 00:40:54,584 The Dissolution would allow Henry 670 00:40:54,584 --> 00:40:57,424 to complete his overhaul of Tudor society 671 00:40:57,424 --> 00:41:01,424 by reallocating land and property among his new court. 672 00:41:04,824 --> 00:41:09,144 But here in Lewes, things were rather personal for Cromwell. 673 00:41:09,144 --> 00:41:10,864 This was where he wanted 674 00:41:10,864 --> 00:41:13,864 to establish his own seat in the country. 675 00:41:13,864 --> 00:41:18,184 So, wherever possible, he'd preserve the priory's assets. 676 00:41:21,104 --> 00:41:26,064 But for the consecrated heart of the site it was a different story. 677 00:41:29,464 --> 00:41:32,784 It's really romantic to see all these ruins, 678 00:41:32,784 --> 00:41:35,064 but what would it have looked like originally? 679 00:41:35,064 --> 00:41:39,584 Well, you've got to imagine here a massive monastic complex. 680 00:41:39,584 --> 00:41:47,144 You would have had the great church of St Pancras lying just over there, 681 00:41:47,144 --> 00:41:49,824 something the size of Chichester Cathedral. 682 00:41:49,824 --> 00:41:52,184 Really?! So absolutely massive! 683 00:41:52,184 --> 00:41:53,304 Enormous. Yes. 684 00:41:53,304 --> 00:41:56,624 It would have been 100 metres long, 21 metres wide, 685 00:41:56,624 --> 00:41:59,944 with five bells in one of the bell towers 686 00:41:59,944 --> 00:42:02,984 and five chapels around the east end, 687 00:42:02,984 --> 00:42:06,824 all the other buildings that you see here associated with it. 688 00:42:12,424 --> 00:42:16,184 In November 1537, the last prior here 689 00:42:16,184 --> 00:42:18,504 voluntarily signed a document 690 00:42:18,504 --> 00:42:21,424 surrendering Lewes Priory to the government. 691 00:42:21,424 --> 00:42:24,944 Resisting Cromwell would have been tantamount to treason. 692 00:42:30,064 --> 00:42:33,584 The actual demolition itself must have been an enormous job. 693 00:42:33,584 --> 00:42:38,464 Yes. Thomas Cromwell's agent, Giovanni Portinari, 694 00:42:38,464 --> 00:42:43,424 and 17 men brought the whole of the monastic buildings down 695 00:42:43,424 --> 00:42:45,984 within eight to ten days! 696 00:42:45,984 --> 00:42:48,024 That's phenomenally quick! 697 00:42:48,024 --> 00:42:51,904 It is. You can see clearly here the way the walls 698 00:42:51,904 --> 00:42:56,384 have been undermined and brought down on themselves. 699 00:43:05,424 --> 00:43:08,784 Did Cromwell himself benefit from all this mayhem? 700 00:43:08,784 --> 00:43:10,664 Initially, of course, I think he did. 701 00:43:10,664 --> 00:43:13,824 He acquired large amounts of monastic property 702 00:43:13,824 --> 00:43:16,064 and he was at the height of his power. 703 00:43:16,064 --> 00:43:20,824 He had just arranged the marriage of Henry to Anne of Cleves, 704 00:43:20,824 --> 00:43:23,384 but the marriage was a disaster. 705 00:43:23,384 --> 00:43:26,024 His enemies gathered against him. 706 00:43:26,024 --> 00:43:28,504 Cromwell was charged with heresy 707 00:43:28,504 --> 00:43:31,544 and Henry had him executed in July 1540. 708 00:43:34,944 --> 00:43:38,864 It was Henry's fourth wife who really did for Cromwell. 709 00:43:38,864 --> 00:43:41,304 He'd successfully orchestrated the King's divorce 710 00:43:41,304 --> 00:43:44,464 from Catherine of Aragon, the downfall of Anne Boleyn 711 00:43:44,464 --> 00:43:47,784 and the marriage to the ill-fated Jane Seymour, 712 00:43:47,784 --> 00:43:52,464 but then it was the disastrous union with Anne of Cleves. 713 00:43:52,464 --> 00:43:57,024 Four wives and now a very unhappy king. 714 00:43:57,024 --> 00:43:59,664 In the febrile court of the paranoid Henry 715 00:43:59,664 --> 00:44:02,984 that was all the ammunition Cromwell's enemies needed. 716 00:44:05,664 --> 00:44:09,344 And here in Lewes there's a fabulous little twist. 717 00:44:09,344 --> 00:44:12,104 Cromwell's last act before his execution 718 00:44:12,104 --> 00:44:16,344 was to reluctantly support the King's divorce from Anne of Cleves. 719 00:44:16,344 --> 00:44:21,144 The divorce settlement awarded the German noblewoman this house, 720 00:44:21,144 --> 00:44:22,904 as well as the priory lodgings 721 00:44:22,904 --> 00:44:25,424 which Cromwell had snatched for himself 722 00:44:25,424 --> 00:44:27,664 straight after the Dissolution. 723 00:44:34,304 --> 00:44:38,944 Anne got no fewer than nine grand houses in Sussex. 724 00:44:38,944 --> 00:44:42,704 And guess what she got in Kent? Both Hever Castle 725 00:44:42,704 --> 00:44:44,944 and the Duke of Buckingham's old pad, 726 00:44:44,944 --> 00:44:48,864 the starting point of my journey, Penshurst Place. 727 00:44:48,864 --> 00:44:51,504 And she survived and lived to enjoy them 728 00:44:51,504 --> 00:44:56,504 long after Henry and Thomas Cromwell were in their graves. 729 00:44:59,144 --> 00:45:02,864 On this walk I've come across a host of Tudor players, 730 00:45:02,864 --> 00:45:04,944 and whether they were old money or new, 731 00:45:04,944 --> 00:45:07,104 they all shared the challenge 732 00:45:07,104 --> 00:45:09,664 of keeping on the right side of the king. 733 00:45:09,664 --> 00:45:13,584 Remarkably, Anne of Cleves never did fall out with Henry 734 00:45:13,584 --> 00:45:17,104 and she ended as one of the most unlikely winners 735 00:45:17,104 --> 00:45:20,984 in the course of a tumultuous 38-year reign. 736 00:45:27,184 --> 00:45:29,464 Henry died some eight years after 737 00:45:29,464 --> 00:45:33,144 his seismic Dissolution of the Monasteries had taken place, 738 00:45:33,144 --> 00:45:36,944 by which time the royal court had been transformed. 739 00:45:36,944 --> 00:45:41,064 As had the economy, society, even the landscape. 740 00:45:41,064 --> 00:45:43,504 And by breaking with Rome, 741 00:45:43,504 --> 00:45:47,304 he'd severed the relationship between England and Europe. 742 00:45:47,304 --> 00:45:51,184 Henry brought hundreds of years of medieval life 743 00:45:51,184 --> 00:45:54,464 to a decisive and often disruptive end 744 00:45:54,464 --> 00:45:58,464 and ushered in a new, very modern era. 745 00:45:58,464 --> 00:46:02,824 And 500 years ago, this little corner of England 746 00:46:02,824 --> 00:46:05,304 was at the heart of it all. 747 00:46:07,944 --> 00:46:10,104 If you want to follow in my footsteps, 748 00:46:10,104 --> 00:46:14,704 you can download a guide to my walk from -