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00:00:03,720 --> 00:00:06,360
Don't you think it's astounding

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00:00:06,360 --> 00:00:10,040
that our planet
supports seven billion of us...

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00:00:10,040 --> 00:00:12,040
BABIES' CRIES

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..and counting?

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This programme
contains some strong language

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Learning to survive in a crowded
world is our biggest challenge.

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But there's one corner where we're
already well on our way to adapting.

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Welcome to India.

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Over one in six in the world
live here,

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and to make ends meet,

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more of us are moving to the city
than anywhere else on Earth.

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TRANSLATION:

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We're resourceful

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and highly resilient.

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It's just as well.

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We need all our ingenuity
to create a space we can call home.

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If you want to know how to succeed
in this new, unchecked urban world,

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come and take a look over here.

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Who DOESN'T like gold?

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We'll show you how,
no matter how dense the crowd,

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we can carve out a home
and build our future.

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This programme contains
some strong language.

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00:01:36,360 --> 00:01:38,600
Come and meet a 23-year-old guy

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who's come to the megacity of
Kolkata, looking to make it big.

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Imran is known to everyone as Kaale
and lives in this crumbling house

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in the heart of the city's
jewellery-making district.

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Kaale has come here in search
of gold, and he's not the only one.

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This old district is crammed
with over 800 workshops,

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where goldsmiths create
the original Indian bling.

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Gold jewellery has long been
the must-have adornment
for Indian women,

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and doubles up
as an instant emergency fund.

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It's our insurance policy,
but far better to look at.

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If you add it all together,

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Indian housewives hold 11%
of the globe's gold stocks.

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That's more than the reserves
of the US, Germany, Switzerland

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and the IMF put together.

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With night-time temperatures
regularly over 30 degrees C,

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Kaale and his friends prefer
the street to their stifling room.

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He and his closest colleagues
get up at three to work,

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while the city briefly sleeps.

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Kaale and his fellow gold sweepers
have an agreement,

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allocating them a couple of streets
each to scour for particles of gold.

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The first step after sweeping

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is this traditional
gold-rush technique.

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The most closely-guarded part
of Kaale's alchemy

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is carried out
on the roof above his room.

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Now, if you want know how to make
gold out of dirt, listen up.

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Take one bowl of sweepings,

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reduce to a fine silt by panning...

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..add a good slug of nitric acid,

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before putting on the heat
for just a few seconds.

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Next, give the acid and mercury
a thorough mix with your hand.

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Once the mercury has attracted all
the gold, remove it from the pan...

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..and return to the heat
to boil off the mercury.

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Kaale's room is controlled
by one man, Naukada.

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He's recruited the panners
for their specialist skills,

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learnt in their home city of Agra,
700 miles away.

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Kaale's not the only panner
frustrated with the price
he's getting for his gold.

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Many of the panners are resigned
to their position under Naukada,

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but Kaale has bigger ambitions.

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With 1.2 billion of us here,

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all looking to make
the best possible livelihood,

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you've got to be very canny

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at finding your niche
ahead of anyone else,

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and that can mean looking
in the most unlikely of places.

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Take Versova beach,
on the northern edge of Mumbai.

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This barren strip of sand
hardly suggests big opportunity,

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but 50 years ago,
new arrivals from Rajasthan

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made a surprising discovery.

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Anil's grandfather realised
that fresh water on a beach

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made it perfect for growing
the desert crops from back home.

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The sand-loving, bittersweet
vegetable fenugreek,

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known as methi,
immediately flourished,

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growing its tasty sprouts
in just three days.

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A solid family business was born.

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Today,
there are 32 methi farmers here,

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many with four or five employees,

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and they've been granted a licence
to cultivate this municipal beach.

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Others have followed, providing
services to the growing community.

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But the houses these recent arrivals
have built on the sand are illegal.

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Father to one of the 40 families
calling the beach their home

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is Rajesh.

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He came here
after falling for his wife Sevita.

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4-year-old Vaishnavi has
an 8-year-old brother, Harsh.

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They've both been brought up
on the beach,

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unlike their father, who grew up in
his well-to-do parents' apartment.

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But then he fell in love.

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Sevita is from a poor family
and has a limp from childhood polio.

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This was so unacceptable,
Rajesh's father also made sure

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his son lost the job
he'd secured him at Mumbai airport.

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Rajesh now works from home,

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so Sevita expects him to do his fair
share of the early-morning chores.

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My son is going to school now. Bye.

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Bye. Bye.

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Sevita has a part-time job
as a cleaner

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for a middle-class family
in the city.

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But to earn a bit more on the side,

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she deals in the beach's
home-grown speciality.

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The family's main business, however,

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is doubling up their home as
a local pub for the methi farmers.

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The only drink on offer
is cane liquor.

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Rajesh doesn't have a liquor licence

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and his illegal business has
landed him in jail once already.

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Too much.

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Rajesh has few other options,

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and so reckons the risk
is one worth taking.

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Besides, right now
he has more immediate worries.

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There's a rumour
that the local council - the BMC -

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are preparing
for one of their periodic evictions

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of the families
squatting on the beach.

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We're certainly hard-working,

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but having our heads down
doesn't mean we're cut off.

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Keeping our eyes open
to the world around us

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might just give us
that all-important edge.

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In the jewellery district, the
gold sweepers take a close interest

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in the global spot price of gold.

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A shift in value has
a direct impact on their earnings,

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though not in the way
you might expect.

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With the price of gold
at an all-time high,

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and fewer customers for jewellery,

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there's far less gold dust
on the streets.

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For Kaale, this means his dream
of escaping the landlord's
cramped dormitory

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and setting up on his own
has got harder still.

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But he has an idea,
and is up earlier than ever.

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He plans to bypass his landlord by
dealing in a different kind of dirt.

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The gold dust
washed off the goldsmiths' bodies,

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and swept from their floors,

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eventually ends up with
all the other muck - in the drains.

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Working flat out for 20 minutes,

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Kaale dredges enough sludge
to fill six bags.

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They dredge three more drains

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before Kaale and his friends
call it a night.

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To shift the night's haul,

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Kaale makes a call
to one of the large-scale refiners.

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Kaale's plan to cut out his landlord
in the house seems set.

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At last, the buyer, Javed,
does turn up,

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but he's playing it very cool.

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JAVED:

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Once Javed's happy there's gold
in the mud, negotiations can begin.

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If we've got a good business idea,
we're not the type of people

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to let paperwork and the law
get in the way.

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Over 90% of our working population
earn their money off the books,

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generating two thirds of our GDP.

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Ironically, that includes
selling knocked-off books,

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something the entrepreneurs
where YOU come from
might not be so happy about.

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Steve Jobs, Steve Jobs,

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00:22:01,800 --> 00:22:03,480
and Deepak Chopra, Life After Death.

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Meet Salman, who earns his living
selling the books
to Mumbai commuters.

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Salman works the prime retail space
of this busy junction

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with a bunch of friends, who have
a strict profit-sharing agreement.

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Salman started out
selling newspapers on the streets
when he was nine,

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before spotting there were better
returns in paperbacks

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turned out
by the city's top backstreet press.

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Hi, sir. Novels?

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Black marketeers like Salman
and the gang are easy targets.

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Salman's friend Ajay ended up here

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after an accident with a haymaking
machine back in his village.

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Ajay consistently tops
the cooperative's sales rankings,

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guaranteeing his popularity.

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Salman and some of his family
currently sleep

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in a municipal gardens
next to the junction.

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PHONE RINGS

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While Salman mainly sleeps out,
close to his work,

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his mum lives at home,
just outside the city.

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Like mums everywhere,
she worries for him and his future.

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CHILD: Good night!

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Let me take you to a secret place
across the mighty Ganges.

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On this abandoned riverbank,

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hundreds work in an underground,
yet highly organised industry.

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Welcome to Kolkata's
very own gold rush.

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This is where Javed's
brought the drain sludge

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that he purchased from Kaale
in the jewellery district.

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He and his family are major players
around these parts.

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Javed's hopes of transforming
the sludge into cold, hard cash

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relies on the skill
of his 20 employees.

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Before the gold can be extracted,
the sludge must be prepared.

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The sieving is supervised
by Javed's father Abdul,

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head of the family firm.

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The only mechanised phase
of the process follows.

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See? This is very good, fine powder.

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The finely-ground mud is ready
for Javed's casino.

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This labour-intensive
wooden sluice technology

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00:30:36,920 --> 00:30:39,920
is straight
from 19th-century California,

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using water
hauled by hand from the Ganges.

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When conjuring gold from mud,
there's no beating the human touch.

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A vigorous brushing

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dislodges the precious sediment
from the grooves in the wood.

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Air is blasted
into the charcoal-fired crucible

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00:31:41,720 --> 00:31:46,160
to force up the temperature
and drive off any impurities.

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00:32:07,760 --> 00:32:12,800
The solidified ranga bowls are then
heated to an even higher temperature

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00:32:12,800 --> 00:32:17,280
in a handmade oven for several
hours, to burn off the mercury.

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00:32:41,640 --> 00:32:45,280
A small disc of alloyed
silver and gold is all that's left.

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00:32:46,800 --> 00:32:52,800
Javed's brother Nabil refines it
piece by piece, using nitric acid.

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00:32:57,040 --> 00:33:00,680
A final smelting produces,
at long last,

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pure 24-carat gold.

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Earning cash is always
the top priority,

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00:33:34,240 --> 00:33:37,160
but making a home is also crucial.

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00:33:37,160 --> 00:33:40,360
It provides the stability
we hope will nurture

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00:33:40,360 --> 00:33:43,800
the success and wealth
of the next generation.

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00:33:43,800 --> 00:33:45,600
On the beach in Mumbai,

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00:33:45,600 --> 00:33:49,240
today is Rajesh and Sevita's
wedding anniversary.

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00:33:49,240 --> 00:33:52,200
It's nine years
since they moved here,

203
00:33:52,200 --> 00:33:55,520
after their controversial
love marriage,

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00:33:55,520 --> 00:33:58,000
and even though money is tight,

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00:33:58,000 --> 00:34:00,640
Rajesh is determined
to buy Sevita a present.

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00:34:30,960 --> 00:34:35,560
Splashing out on a new sari means
that Rajesh needs more credit

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00:34:35,560 --> 00:34:37,240
to restock his pub.

208
00:34:37,240 --> 00:34:40,680
He drops a call
to his local money lender,

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00:34:40,680 --> 00:34:43,720
who he already owes
a substantial sum.

210
00:35:02,800 --> 00:35:07,520
The money lender relents
and lets Rajesh extend his loan.

211
00:35:07,520 --> 00:35:12,360
Failing to keep up his repayments
now would have serious consequences.

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00:35:30,240 --> 00:35:33,960
Rajesh now desperately needs to get
the pub back up and running

213
00:35:33,960 --> 00:35:35,760
and stimulate some cash flow.

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00:35:39,800 --> 00:35:41,240
Once dusk falls,

215
00:35:41,240 --> 00:35:46,480
he can safely make his rendezvous
with his illicit liquor supplier.

216
00:36:30,040 --> 00:36:31,960
Word has already got out

217
00:36:31,960 --> 00:36:36,240
that the best-value bar
on the beach is back in business.

218
00:36:36,240 --> 00:36:42,360
Rajesh's strategy is to corner
the no-frills end of the market.

219
00:36:56,760 --> 00:37:01,040
With the customers
having drunk their pockets dry,

220
00:37:01,040 --> 00:37:03,040
Rajesh calls time at the bar,

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00:37:03,040 --> 00:37:06,000
so he can present Sevita
with her surprise.

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CHILD: # Happy birthday to you
Dear mummy, dear papa! #

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00:37:45,960 --> 00:37:49,800
But such harmony on the beach
could be short-lived.

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00:37:49,800 --> 00:37:52,440
The residents
of new luxury apartments

225
00:37:52,440 --> 00:37:55,160
want squatters like Rajesh moved on,

226
00:37:55,160 --> 00:37:57,320
and they're not alone.

227
00:37:57,320 --> 00:37:59,200
Methi farmer Anil's family

228
00:37:59,200 --> 00:38:02,800
built illegally themselves
when they first arrived,

229
00:38:02,800 --> 00:38:05,840
but they've since been given
the right to remain,

230
00:38:05,840 --> 00:38:11,080
and the growing competition
over space explains their antipathy
towards newer arrivals.

231
00:38:54,640 --> 00:38:59,040
Kaale is still in the room he shares
with 15 other gold sweepers,

232
00:38:59,040 --> 00:39:01,720
all under the control
of their landlord.

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00:39:08,240 --> 00:39:12,440
But he's just heard about a room
that's come available nearby.

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00:39:12,440 --> 00:39:17,120
Perhaps this is the moment he's
been waiting for to make his escape.

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00:40:29,640 --> 00:40:32,480
2,000 rupees a month
isn't unreasonable,

236
00:40:32,480 --> 00:40:35,320
but on top of food
and other outgoings,

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00:40:35,320 --> 00:40:37,520
it's well out of Kaale's reach.

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00:40:37,520 --> 00:40:41,920
Somehow, he needs to radically
improve the returns

239
00:40:41,920 --> 00:40:43,760
for his drain sludge.

240
00:40:47,920 --> 00:40:50,960
Down at the sludge refinery
by the Ganges,

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00:40:50,960 --> 00:40:53,600
the workers turn up
at first light...

242
00:40:55,200 --> 00:40:59,480
..while their boss Javed can enjoy
a more leisurely approach.

243
00:41:05,440 --> 00:41:07,080
First things first -

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00:41:07,080 --> 00:41:08,640
breakfast.

245
00:42:46,320 --> 00:42:48,640
Kaale has come down to the refinery

246
00:42:48,640 --> 00:42:52,040
with fresh determination
after seeing the room.

247
00:43:02,600 --> 00:43:06,680
He's realised that, as a newcomer
to the drain sludge business,

248
00:43:06,680 --> 00:43:10,800
he must play tough if he's ever
going to be paid a fair amount.

249
00:44:20,000 --> 00:44:24,040
There's a mounting panic among
residents of the beach in Mumbai.

250
00:44:24,040 --> 00:44:28,160
There's word that the council are
serious about their eviction threat

251
00:44:28,160 --> 00:44:30,360
and are sending over the bulldozers.

252
00:44:52,640 --> 00:44:55,760
But Rajesh has seen it all before.

253
00:45:04,560 --> 00:45:07,920
Faced with the risk
of losing everything,

254
00:45:07,920 --> 00:45:11,320
most people aren't
taking any chances.

255
00:45:23,960 --> 00:45:28,040
One of the council's security
guards is an old customer,

256
00:45:28,040 --> 00:45:32,080
with no qualms over ordering
a drink from the illegal pub.

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00:45:35,160 --> 00:45:38,520
He's not convinced
by Rajesh's preparation

258
00:45:38,520 --> 00:45:42,440
and tips him off that this time
the eviction IS for real.

259
00:46:06,040 --> 00:46:08,720
Rajesh has an added problem.

260
00:46:14,440 --> 00:46:17,520
If the cops find his booze
during the eviction,

261
00:46:17,520 --> 00:46:20,440
he would quickly end up
back in prison.

262
00:46:34,560 --> 00:46:38,120
Luckily for the future of
the family's home and possessions,

263
00:46:38,120 --> 00:46:41,800
Sevita's rushed back
from her job in time to help.

264
00:47:04,520 --> 00:47:08,000
Unlike Rajesh's upbringing
in a middle-class apartment,

265
00:47:08,000 --> 00:47:10,680
Sevita grew up
in illegal settlements.

266
00:47:39,160 --> 00:47:43,080
The money lender approaches
on his daily round.

267
00:49:50,640 --> 00:49:52,280
In just two hours,

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00:49:52,280 --> 00:49:57,560
the houses of 40 families have
been reduced to a jumbled mess.

269
00:50:04,680 --> 00:50:06,920
Kaale, in the jewellery district,

270
00:50:06,920 --> 00:50:11,880
is again using the brief hours
of quiet in the middle of the night.

271
00:50:20,960 --> 00:50:23,560
He's confident he's found a buyer

272
00:50:23,560 --> 00:50:26,520
who will pay properly
for the sludge.

273
00:51:12,520 --> 00:51:16,960
Kaale has a new plan to strengthen
his bartering position.

274
00:51:16,960 --> 00:51:19,520
Instead of letting the buyer
come to him,

275
00:51:19,520 --> 00:51:22,480
he'll take the sludge
to the buyer's own turf.

276
00:52:20,760 --> 00:52:23,000
The race across town has paid off.

277
00:52:23,000 --> 00:52:25,760
The new buyer, Akbar,
is still present.

278
00:52:28,280 --> 00:52:31,960
But will he offer more
than the 5,000 rupees Javed paid

279
00:52:31,960 --> 00:52:34,440
for this similar amount of sludge?

280
00:53:55,440 --> 00:53:59,080
On the beach, everyone is busy
rebuilding their homes

281
00:53:59,080 --> 00:54:02,880
in the exact same position
as before yesterday's demolition.

282
00:54:07,560 --> 00:54:10,040
The cops didn't find Rajesh's booze,

283
00:54:10,040 --> 00:54:13,120
and his dismantled house
survived unscathed.

284
00:54:14,480 --> 00:54:18,080
Rajesh himself has been off
helping some friends,

285
00:54:18,080 --> 00:54:21,680
leaving Sevita to reconstruct
their home alone.

286
00:54:51,440 --> 00:54:54,960
But there's a priority
neither can afford to ignore.

287
00:54:54,960 --> 00:54:58,840
Before the walls are even on,
the pub is back up and running,

288
00:54:58,840 --> 00:55:03,600
providing the income so crucial
for servicing their debt.

289
00:55:49,360 --> 00:55:52,760
Now Kaale's getting a better price
for his drain sludge,

290
00:55:52,760 --> 00:55:55,720
renting a room may be within reach.

291
00:56:01,200 --> 00:56:06,200
He's taking his dredging friends
along for a second viewing

292
00:56:06,200 --> 00:56:08,440
of the place offered
at 2,000 rupees a month.

293
00:57:19,160 --> 00:57:22,360
And on the beach,
there's a new contentment, too.

294
00:57:22,360 --> 00:57:25,360
The BMC like to flex
their muscles occasionally,

295
00:57:25,360 --> 00:57:28,040
but attention has now moved on.

296
00:57:36,760 --> 00:57:42,800
For Rajesh and Sevita, life on
the beach is never going to be easy.

297
00:57:42,800 --> 00:57:46,600
But, as adaptable,
resourceful survivors,

298
00:57:46,600 --> 00:57:51,840
they will always be able to provide
a home for their family,

299
00:57:51,840 --> 00:57:55,440
and with that comes hope
for a better future.

300
00:58:21,720 --> 00:58:24,560
Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd