1 00:01:47,960 --> 00:01:51,589 The South Pacific. The first Europeans to sail these waters 2 00:01:51,680 --> 00:01:57,152 took back to their chilly northern homes stories of islands of paradise, 3 00:01:57,240 --> 00:01:59,629 where the warm sea abounds with fish, 4 00:01:59,720 --> 00:02:03,793 coconuts drop from the trees and life is easy. 5 00:02:09,760 --> 00:02:12,399 The islands lie thickest in the southwest. 6 00:02:12,480 --> 00:02:15,392 But the explorers soon found that the people who lived here, 7 00:02:15,480 --> 00:02:19,519 were far from gentle innocents wandering through a garden of Eden. 8 00:02:19,600 --> 00:02:22,672 Some were head... hunters, others cannibals. 9 00:02:22,760 --> 00:02:27,470 And they were all haunted, even tormented, by their gods. 10 00:02:27,560 --> 00:02:29,710 (Drumming) 11 00:02:42,640 --> 00:02:46,189 The people of Melanesia, as this part of the world is called, 12 00:02:46,280 --> 00:02:49,317 created numberless images of their spirits. 13 00:02:49,400 --> 00:02:52,949 They constructed them from bark cloth, they wove them from fibre, 14 00:02:53,040 --> 00:02:56,396 they carved them in wood and hung them with human hair. 15 00:02:56,480 --> 00:02:58,471 Some resembled human beings, 16 00:02:58,560 --> 00:03:02,599 some creatures that have never been seen in the natural world. 17 00:03:04,120 --> 00:03:06,076 (Pipes) 18 00:03:17,760 --> 00:03:19,876 (Pipes and screeching) 19 00:03:35,000 --> 00:03:36,752 (Drumming and handclaps) 20 00:03:47,360 --> 00:03:51,512 Many of the people who created these things stopped doing so long ago. 21 00:03:51,600 --> 00:03:55,798 Their islands were small and easily policed by government officers and missionaries 22 00:03:55,880 --> 00:03:58,917 but there are also large islands in the South Pacific, 23 00:03:59,000 --> 00:04:04,472 some so big that even today, few outsiders have visited the people living in the interior. 24 00:04:04,560 --> 00:04:07,552 0ne such lies in the New Hebrides, Malekula. 25 00:04:10,680 --> 00:04:16,312 The only roads in Malekula run round the coast and then only in short, unconnected lengths. 26 00:04:16,400 --> 00:04:20,393 Inland, rivers alone break the carpet of dense jungle. 27 00:04:22,760 --> 00:04:25,479 Villages are very difficult to see from the air, 28 00:04:25,560 --> 00:04:29,030 so deeply buried are they in the tall forest. 29 00:04:34,960 --> 00:04:38,270 That brown spot is, in fact, the roof of a hut. 30 00:04:38,360 --> 00:04:41,352 All that can be seen of a whole settlement. 31 00:04:46,880 --> 00:04:51,556 This is the hut and also the highest point of Malekula. 32 00:04:52,400 --> 00:04:55,915 Only a handful of outsiders have ever been here. 33 00:04:56,000 --> 00:04:59,436 And the reason is not difficult to discover. The journey is not an easy one. 34 00:04:59,520 --> 00:05:05,436 You have to wade across river 26 times... I know cos I counted them. 35 00:05:05,520 --> 00:05:08,751 And climb up very steep, muddy slopes. 36 00:05:08,840 --> 00:05:11,877 And it rains. And if it rains heavily, 37 00:05:11,960 --> 00:05:15,111 well, you may come up here thinking you're gonna spend days, 38 00:05:15,200 --> 00:05:19,796 and end up spending weeks, because the rivers will become impassable. 39 00:05:19,880 --> 00:05:24,271 But it's a marvellous place to be because this is not so much a village, 40 00:05:24,360 --> 00:05:28,353 as a great ritual centre, a holy place. 41 00:05:28,440 --> 00:05:33,355 These huge log gongs, this is the mother gong, 42 00:05:33,440 --> 00:05:36,716 sound through these mountains to the many people 43 00:05:36,800 --> 00:05:42,432 who have their huts scattered in the forest and who will come here for the big ceremonies. 44 00:05:42,520 --> 00:05:46,035 It's planted with special ceremonial plants. 45 00:05:46,120 --> 00:05:48,793 This is the tanket, the croton plant, 46 00:05:48,880 --> 00:05:53,192 which is an essential part of many of the ritual sacrifices. 47 00:05:54,160 --> 00:05:58,995 Over here they are food plants... bananas, paw paws, coconut, 48 00:05:59,080 --> 00:06:03,710 cassava, yam, taro, bread fruit, but there are not just food plants. 49 00:06:03,800 --> 00:06:07,076 There also grow other plants that otherwise are only found 50 00:06:07,160 --> 00:06:10,391 in some remote parts of these mountains, but whose blossoms 51 00:06:10,480 --> 00:06:16,237 and whose leaves are essential for many of the rites that are held here. 52 00:06:16,320 --> 00:06:19,630 No woman is allowed anywhere inside this enclosure 53 00:06:19,720 --> 00:06:25,955 and I myself may not pass an invisible line which crosses the path just here. 54 00:06:26,040 --> 00:06:30,079 For beyond lies the entrance to the namao, 55 00:06:30,160 --> 00:06:36,190 a house that is shielded from view by this palisade of leaves. 56 00:06:36,280 --> 00:06:41,274 The namao is the men's sacred house where all the important tribal decisions are taken, 57 00:06:41,360 --> 00:06:43,954 where the great ceremonials are held. 58 00:06:44,040 --> 00:06:49,194 No stranger, no white man has ever seen inside a namao. 59 00:06:49,280 --> 00:06:53,558 And so we only know what is in there from what the men themselves tell us. 60 00:06:53,640 --> 00:06:57,872 One thing is quite certain. Inside, there are great quantities of carvings 61 00:06:57,960 --> 00:07:00,758 and sculptures of all kinds. 62 00:07:02,000 --> 00:07:05,117 Mulumulanassar is the most important man here. 63 00:07:05,200 --> 00:07:08,158 He knows more about the supernatural world than anyone else 64 00:07:08,240 --> 00:07:12,279 and he will decide whether we may see any sculptures from the namao. 65 00:07:12,360 --> 00:07:15,193 A man becomes important by sacrificing pigs 66 00:07:15,280 --> 00:07:19,990 in a series of rituals that only the most dedicated can complete in his lifetime. 67 00:07:20,080 --> 00:07:22,640 The spirits require not just ordinary pigs, 68 00:07:22,720 --> 00:07:25,792 but tuskers that have been specially mutilated. 69 00:07:27,040 --> 00:07:30,510 This is the most valuable kind. Its upper tooth was knocked out 70 00:07:30,600 --> 00:07:34,593 so that its lower tusk could grow in a complete circle. 71 00:07:35,720 --> 00:07:41,238 Mulumulanassar during his long life has sacrificed over 300 pigs. 72 00:07:41,320 --> 00:07:43,550 By doing so he's reached such a high grade 73 00:07:43,640 --> 00:07:47,838 and become so holy that he is already partly dead, 74 00:07:47,920 --> 00:07:51,595 already spending some of his time in the next world among the spirits. 75 00:07:51,680 --> 00:07:54,638 It's through him that they convey their wishes to the living. 76 00:08:07,560 --> 00:08:11,348 Without warning, a Numpuki spirit has come out of the namao. 77 00:08:11,440 --> 00:08:15,956 Normally, this only happens on a day one month after the death of an important man. 78 00:08:20,000 --> 00:08:23,436 More men emerge from the sacred enclosure. 79 00:08:28,840 --> 00:08:30,751 These are Metenyeli boards. 80 00:08:30,840 --> 00:08:34,799 The staring eyes represent the unblinking gaze of a dead man. 81 00:08:34,880 --> 00:08:38,236 For this is the spirit face that glares down on a boy 82 00:08:38,320 --> 00:08:42,108 during the painful, terrifying rites of his initiation. 83 00:08:51,880 --> 00:08:55,793 Mulumulanassar is permitting us to see much more than we could have hoped. 84 00:08:55,880 --> 00:08:59,111 It was out of the question that we should go inside the namao 85 00:08:59,200 --> 00:09:03,113 but now its sacred objects are being brought out to us. 86 00:09:04,360 --> 00:09:06,954 The people tell us the names of each of them. 87 00:09:07,040 --> 00:09:09,600 These are Nangar. 88 00:09:11,280 --> 00:09:13,271 This, Nimelaloks. 89 00:09:14,320 --> 00:09:17,153 They're made from clay and cobwebs. 90 00:09:17,240 --> 00:09:20,949 Some incorporate the curving tusks of sacrificed pigs. 91 00:09:21,040 --> 00:09:24,669 All undoubtedly are used in the long ceremonial dramas 92 00:09:24,760 --> 00:09:28,992 that are enacted in the namao, the cult house. 93 00:09:33,640 --> 00:09:35,596 We are taken to an outlying hut. 94 00:09:35,680 --> 00:09:37,033 This is not the namao, 95 00:09:37,120 --> 00:09:41,318 but a place where other sacred objects are being stored. 96 00:09:43,720 --> 00:09:48,316 All these things are so ritually powerful that no woman or child may see them. 97 00:09:48,400 --> 00:09:52,632 It may be that the women too have images of their own in houses of their own, 98 00:09:52,720 --> 00:09:56,190 but I, as a man, will never be told about that. 99 00:09:56,800 --> 00:09:59,917 These boards form the ceiling of the initiation hut 100 00:10:00,000 --> 00:10:03,709 where boys are confined for a whole year. 101 00:10:03,800 --> 00:10:05,472 - Rambaramp? - Rambaramp. 102 00:10:05,560 --> 00:10:07,118 Him? 103 00:10:09,040 --> 00:10:11,713 And these are the most spectacular of all. 104 00:10:15,320 --> 00:10:21,668 A Rambaramp is an effigy of a dead man painted with designs that proclaim his status. 105 00:10:21,760 --> 00:10:24,149 Its head is his actual skull, 106 00:10:24,240 --> 00:10:28,199 fleshed out with clay, mixed with vegetable fibre. 107 00:10:28,280 --> 00:10:31,875 Mulumulanassar takes us to a special place in the village. 108 00:10:31,960 --> 00:10:34,474 Here, beneath a shroud of painted bark, 109 00:10:34,560 --> 00:10:36,710 lies the body of his son. 110 00:10:43,360 --> 00:10:46,511 Above, symbols of fruit bats and doves. 111 00:10:46,600 --> 00:10:48,477 His son died six months earlier. 112 00:10:48,560 --> 00:10:50,152 The body is now headless 113 00:10:50,240 --> 00:10:53,198 for the skull has been removed and made into a Rambaramp, 114 00:10:53,280 --> 00:10:56,955 which will be displayed in a great funeral ceremony. 115 00:11:15,160 --> 00:11:19,597 The rites are being held for six other men as well as Mulumulanassar's son. 116 00:11:19,680 --> 00:11:23,639 It is the biggest funeral ceremony to be held for decades. 117 00:11:25,320 --> 00:11:29,313 The women have assembled carrying branches of croton leaves. 118 00:11:53,360 --> 00:11:56,716 Specially large yams have been grown for the occasion. 119 00:11:56,800 --> 00:12:00,588 They will be presented to the spirits of the dead men. 120 00:12:10,840 --> 00:12:13,638 This is Iblabnambump from a nearby village. 121 00:12:13,720 --> 00:12:15,438 The only man in all these mountains 122 00:12:15,520 --> 00:12:18,671 who has has reached a rank higher than Mulumulanassar. 123 00:12:18,760 --> 00:12:21,228 He alone knows the full rituals. 124 00:12:21,320 --> 00:12:25,233 Without a man of his rank, the ceremony could not be held. 125 00:12:25,320 --> 00:12:29,279 When he and Mulumulanassar are dead, there may be none who knows 126 00:12:29,360 --> 00:12:33,353 how to perform a similar service for their spirits. 127 00:12:34,720 --> 00:12:37,712 A long screen of leaves has been put up in front of the namao 128 00:12:37,800 --> 00:12:41,793 and above it, mysterious figures begin to dance. 129 00:12:46,120 --> 00:12:49,874 The people call these in pidgin, Pikinini Blong Rambaramp. 130 00:12:49,960 --> 00:12:51,712 The children of the Rambaramp. 131 00:12:51,800 --> 00:12:55,839 Their dances may be the acting out of one of the myths of creation 132 00:12:55,920 --> 00:12:58,832 in which they took part in a titanic battle. 133 00:12:58,920 --> 00:13:03,357 But no outsider knows exactly what this puppet play does mean. 134 00:13:24,480 --> 00:13:27,836 And now the Rambaramps appear. 135 00:13:27,920 --> 00:13:29,876 (Drumming) 136 00:13:32,920 --> 00:13:35,070 (Drumming stops, singing) 137 00:13:40,920 --> 00:13:43,832 More and more are brought out from behind the screen 138 00:13:43,920 --> 00:13:46,480 until there are seven standing in a row. 139 00:14:08,480 --> 00:14:11,233 0fferings are piled up in front of the Rambaramps, 140 00:14:11,320 --> 00:14:14,551 and their living relatives lament before them. 141 00:14:14,640 --> 00:14:17,279 (Mournful singing) 142 00:14:37,640 --> 00:14:40,598 0nly very high ranking men like Iblabnambump 143 00:14:40,680 --> 00:14:45,993 are entitled to carry such a ceremonial spear or perform such dances as this, 144 00:14:46,080 --> 00:14:50,119 the dance of a man hawk on its way to heaven. 145 00:14:52,080 --> 00:14:54,913 The spirits of the dead have at last received their due 146 00:14:55,000 --> 00:14:57,753 in yams, pantomime and dance. 147 00:14:57,840 --> 00:15:02,038 They can now rest in peace in the land below the sea. 148 00:15:10,240 --> 00:15:15,234 Five hundred miles away to the northwest, still in Melanesia, the Solomon Islands. 149 00:15:15,320 --> 00:15:17,390 Here things are very different. 150 00:15:17,480 --> 00:15:20,790 White explorers first came here back in the 16th century, 151 00:15:20,880 --> 00:15:24,998 and European influence today is almost overwhelming. 152 00:15:28,680 --> 00:15:33,356 This is Lao lagoon, where the people have built artificial islands of coral blocks 153 00:15:33,440 --> 00:15:36,432 in order to escape from the mosquitoes of the mainland 154 00:15:36,520 --> 00:15:41,036 and, in the old days, to give themselves protection from marauding head... hunters. 155 00:15:41,120 --> 00:15:46,638 Even here, one of the remoter parts of the Solomons' Western influence is all pervasive. 156 00:15:46,720 --> 00:15:49,188 (Children singing) 157 00:17:00,080 --> 00:17:03,356 In the old days, the Solomon Islanders built cult houses 158 00:17:03,440 --> 00:17:05,829 just as they do in the New Hebrides. 159 00:17:05,920 --> 00:17:10,675 The last traditional priest in Lao lagoon took me into his. 160 00:17:20,400 --> 00:17:23,119 There was only one sculpture to be seen. 161 00:17:23,200 --> 00:17:27,352 A crudely carved image of a bird cut out from a plank. 162 00:17:27,440 --> 00:17:32,036 The priest said that he sometimes came to sit here and chant the old songs 163 00:17:32,120 --> 00:17:34,156 but few people ever joined him. 164 00:17:37,640 --> 00:17:39,596 Beyond the cold fireplace, 165 00:17:39,680 --> 00:17:43,275 a simply carved post containing the skull of his father 166 00:17:43,360 --> 00:17:47,638 and a battered tin trunk in which he said there were other human bones. 167 00:17:47,720 --> 00:17:49,950 But once the spirit houses of the Solomons 168 00:17:50,040 --> 00:17:53,919 were filled with images as splendid as any in the Pacific. 169 00:17:54,000 --> 00:17:56,230 Images of the gods. 170 00:17:57,320 --> 00:18:01,950 The gods give manna, supernatural power. 171 00:18:02,040 --> 00:18:07,319 If a warrior is strong, if a chief is wise, it is because he has manna. 172 00:18:07,400 --> 00:18:09,311 Animals and even inanimate things 173 00:18:09,400 --> 00:18:14,190 like strangely shaped stones or dangerous reefs possess manna. 174 00:18:14,280 --> 00:18:16,555 It is neither good nor bad. 175 00:18:16,640 --> 00:18:18,278 It is power. 176 00:18:18,360 --> 00:18:22,797 But it all derives from the spirits and unless they're given sacrifices, 177 00:18:22,880 --> 00:18:24,836 they might deny it to a man. 178 00:18:29,720 --> 00:18:32,598 Some spirits are those of long... dead ancestors. 179 00:18:32,680 --> 00:18:35,353 0thers have never inhabited a human body. 180 00:18:35,440 --> 00:18:38,671 Spirits for example, from the realm of the sea. 181 00:18:41,240 --> 00:18:43,959 It is such a one as this that a man must placate 182 00:18:44,040 --> 00:18:49,990 if he is to ensure success in his hunt for bonito fish, dolphins or turtles. 183 00:19:01,240 --> 00:19:05,870 And the help of spirits may be gained not only by ceremonies in the spirit house 184 00:19:05,960 --> 00:19:08,713 but by enacting, in dance and mime, 185 00:19:08,800 --> 00:19:14,158 the story of a fishing expedition in which a sea spirit comes to the aid of men. 186 00:19:14,240 --> 00:19:16,196 (Singing) 187 00:19:43,560 --> 00:19:49,078 A turtle has been spotted and now the boats must quickly encircle it with nets. 188 00:20:03,720 --> 00:20:05,676 (Singing) 189 00:20:27,680 --> 00:20:29,671 Splashing makes a noise underwater, 190 00:20:29,760 --> 00:20:34,072 which frightens the turtle and drives it towards the nets. 191 00:21:19,000 --> 00:21:22,356 (Singing continues) 192 00:21:53,240 --> 00:21:55,196 (Excited cheering) 193 00:21:59,640 --> 00:22:01,392 (Whooping) 194 00:22:06,160 --> 00:22:09,596 Not a big turtle but nonetheless a cause for jubilation. 195 00:22:09,680 --> 00:22:13,673 It will provide food for a whole family for days. 196 00:22:18,520 --> 00:22:20,750 If you live on an island in a lagoon, 197 00:22:20,840 --> 00:22:23,354 the one thing you lack is fresh water. 198 00:22:23,440 --> 00:22:26,716 And so every day the lagoon people go across to the mainland 199 00:22:26,800 --> 00:22:29,360 to collect it and to wash. 200 00:22:29,440 --> 00:22:32,000 (Children singing) 201 00:23:27,280 --> 00:23:29,510 In the old days, this was the one time 202 00:23:29,600 --> 00:23:33,070 when head... hunters from the interior could creep up unseen 203 00:23:33,160 --> 00:23:36,391 on the islanders from the lagoon and kill. 204 00:23:36,480 --> 00:23:41,554 A head was a head whether it belonged to a warrior or a woman or a child. 205 00:23:42,760 --> 00:23:46,753 This construction is one of the last relics of those old savage days. 206 00:23:46,840 --> 00:23:49,308 Today this is a game. 207 00:23:49,400 --> 00:23:52,870 A century ago it was a way for warriors to steel their nerves 208 00:23:52,960 --> 00:23:55,190 and train themselves for bravery. 209 00:24:14,240 --> 00:24:16,549 Those days are not so long past. 210 00:24:16,640 --> 00:24:20,189 Even in 1912, there were plenty of men in the Solomons 211 00:24:20,280 --> 00:24:24,239 who needed no encouragement or coaching to demonstrate to a missionary, 212 00:24:24,320 --> 00:24:27,517 who was also an enthusiastic amateur film... maker, 213 00:24:27,600 --> 00:24:30,160 how they set out on head... hunting raids 214 00:24:30,240 --> 00:24:33,630 in tomakos, the black sea... going canoes 215 00:24:33,720 --> 00:24:37,315 which they paddled for hundreds of miles through the islands. 216 00:24:45,720 --> 00:24:48,029 (Excited shouting) 217 00:24:51,080 --> 00:24:55,073 Even then the people had enough skulls to set up on poles 218 00:24:55,160 --> 00:24:58,038 so that the triumphant warriors could dance around them 219 00:24:58,120 --> 00:25:02,193 just as they used to do when they returned from a successful raid. 220 00:25:03,520 --> 00:25:09,231 The men wore on their heads discs cut from the shells of giant clams 221 00:25:09,320 --> 00:25:12,756 and overlain with a filigree pattern of turtle shell 222 00:25:12,840 --> 00:25:16,469 designed and cut with the greatest delicacy. 223 00:25:21,360 --> 00:25:25,114 They carried dancing shields made of plaited cane 224 00:25:25,200 --> 00:25:29,557 and covered with a mosaic of pearl shell cut from nautilus. 225 00:25:33,760 --> 00:25:38,709 Their paddles too were often carved with designs of ancestral spirits, 226 00:25:38,800 --> 00:25:42,713 shown squatting in the position in which a man used to be buried. 227 00:25:42,800 --> 00:25:47,078 Almost everything connected with the sea was richly decorated. 228 00:25:54,800 --> 00:25:58,793 A dolphin spirit made of blackened wood and inlaid with pearl shell, 229 00:25:58,880 --> 00:26:01,758 a technique that was a Solomon speciality. 230 00:26:06,440 --> 00:26:08,715 The Muzomuzu, the all... seeing god 231 00:26:08,800 --> 00:26:11,678 which they fixed to the prow of their head... hunting canoes, 232 00:26:11,760 --> 00:26:16,231 whose gaze was so ferocious that none would dare cross in front of it. 233 00:26:22,640 --> 00:26:27,156 In all the Solomons today, one seaworthy tomako still survives. 234 00:26:27,240 --> 00:26:30,073 It can still reach speeds of 15 knots or more 235 00:26:30,160 --> 00:26:34,995 just as it did when it was one of the most feared craft in the Pacific. 236 00:26:53,000 --> 00:26:57,391 Tomakos were up to 50 feet long and could carry 40 warriors. 237 00:26:57,480 --> 00:27:00,199 They were made from planks only half an inch thick 238 00:27:00,280 --> 00:27:05,354 sewn together edge to edge with split cane and sealed with the pulp of putty nuts. 239 00:27:05,440 --> 00:27:08,716 The old man who made this one is now over eighty. 240 00:27:08,800 --> 00:27:11,268 These are cowry shells, aren't they? 241 00:27:11,360 --> 00:27:13,828 Do they have a special meaning, these? 242 00:27:17,920 --> 00:27:21,117 - They are custom decoration. - They are custom decoration? 243 00:27:21,200 --> 00:27:27,355 But supposing a tomako did not have those, why would that be wrong? 244 00:27:33,440 --> 00:27:36,796 It's... A tomako would be regarded as ugly. 245 00:27:36,880 --> 00:27:39,189 As ugly? Yes, I see. 246 00:27:46,360 --> 00:27:51,718 These are decorations after raids in several places. 247 00:27:51,800 --> 00:27:54,678 They are... He place here for that, er, thing. 248 00:27:54,760 --> 00:27:57,228 After head... hunting? You must have? 249 00:28:04,280 --> 00:28:05,793 (Singing) 250 00:28:10,160 --> 00:28:13,630 0ne craft flourishes if anything more vigorously than ever... 251 00:28:13,720 --> 00:28:15,950 the making of shell money. 252 00:28:16,040 --> 00:28:21,717 Small pieces of rock oyster shell are roughly chipped into discs with stone hammers. 253 00:28:29,920 --> 00:28:32,673 Then they are ground smooth and flat. 254 00:28:38,440 --> 00:28:41,432 Each little disc of shell has a hole drilled in its centre 255 00:28:41,520 --> 00:28:44,193 using a bow drill tipped with flint. 256 00:28:44,280 --> 00:28:48,114 The most sought... after and therefore most valuable shell is deep pink. 257 00:28:48,200 --> 00:28:51,795 It's difficult to get but you can turn ordinary white ones pink 258 00:28:51,880 --> 00:28:54,792 simply by putting them on a hot stone. 259 00:28:56,880 --> 00:29:00,998 Then they are strung and given a final smoothing. 260 00:29:02,080 --> 00:29:04,640 And from the one or two villages that make it, 261 00:29:04,720 --> 00:29:08,554 shell money is traded to places as far away as parts of New Guinea, 262 00:29:08,640 --> 00:29:11,074 a thousand miles to the west. 263 00:29:11,160 --> 00:29:14,789 Here in the Solomons, it is still essential currency for many transactions 264 00:29:14,880 --> 00:29:17,553 and particularly in weddings. 265 00:29:24,000 --> 00:29:28,232 The family of a young man is coming to one of the islands in Lao lagoon 266 00:29:28,320 --> 00:29:30,675 to claim a bride for him. 267 00:29:37,000 --> 00:29:39,798 The wedding party have brought with them shell money, 268 00:29:39,880 --> 00:29:45,273 the bride wealth which the bridegroom's family must, by tradition, pay to the bride's parents 269 00:29:45,360 --> 00:29:47,396 as part of the wedding settlement. 270 00:29:47,480 --> 00:29:52,349 Each of these belts is worth about L100 in European currency. 271 00:29:55,480 --> 00:29:59,234 There are also necklaces of dolphin teeth. 272 00:30:21,400 --> 00:30:26,030 The bride is decked with the riches that she has brought to her parents. 273 00:30:30,640 --> 00:30:34,599 As everywhere else, weddings are times of mixed feelings. 274 00:30:34,680 --> 00:30:39,196 Husbands rejoice to get wives but fathers grieve to lose daughters. 275 00:30:39,280 --> 00:30:41,794 (Man wailing) 276 00:31:00,520 --> 00:31:02,511 After this traditional ceremony, 277 00:31:02,600 --> 00:31:06,912 the couple will have their marriage consecrated in a Christian church. 278 00:31:15,320 --> 00:31:19,552 For over a century now, Christianity has been preached throughout Melanesia 279 00:31:19,640 --> 00:31:22,712 and that, together with European influence in general 280 00:31:22,800 --> 00:31:26,634 has meant that most of the old religions and practices have disappeared. 281 00:31:27,400 --> 00:31:33,077 But now, in the wake of Christianity, new, strange religions have begun to emerge. 282 00:31:33,160 --> 00:31:38,393 Odd amalgams of Western practices and the old traditional ones. 283 00:31:38,480 --> 00:31:41,995 Behind me is the southern coast of Guadalcanal in the Solomons 284 00:31:42,080 --> 00:31:45,914 and there, 20 years ago a man named Moro had a vision. 285 00:31:46,000 --> 00:31:51,950 As a result of it he founded a new religion which today has several thousand followers. 286 00:31:52,040 --> 00:31:55,510 We sent a message down to Moro to ask if we might visit him 287 00:31:55,600 --> 00:31:59,718 but we have no idea what sort of reception we're going to get. 288 00:33:05,280 --> 00:33:07,271 (Shouting) 289 00:33:24,480 --> 00:33:26,436 Welcome. How do you do? 290 00:33:29,880 --> 00:33:32,394 - Some more people? - Some more come later time. 291 00:33:32,480 --> 00:33:33,833 - Later? - Yeah, later. 292 00:33:33,920 --> 00:33:36,195 - You come first? - I come first now. 293 00:33:37,960 --> 00:33:39,916 (Talking in native language) 294 00:33:43,320 --> 00:33:46,118 - All right, we go? - Yes, please. 295 00:33:46,200 --> 00:33:47,952 Thank you. 296 00:33:52,800 --> 00:33:58,079 (All) # God save our gracious queen 297 00:33:58,160 --> 00:34:03,871 # Long live our noble queen 298 00:34:03,960 --> 00:34:08,829 # God save our queen 299 00:34:08,920 --> 00:34:14,711 # Send her victorious 300 00:34:14,800 --> 00:34:20,352 # Happy and glorious 301 00:34:20,440 --> 00:34:26,072 # Long to reign over us 302 00:34:26,160 --> 00:34:31,473 # God save the queen 303 00:34:32,240 --> 00:34:38,190 # Send her victorious 304 00:34:38,280 --> 00:34:43,798 # Happy and glorious 305 00:34:43,880 --> 00:34:49,557 # Long to reign over us 306 00:34:49,640 --> 00:34:55,351 # God save the queen # 307 00:35:01,160 --> 00:35:03,116 - We will go, please. - Thank you. 308 00:35:03,200 --> 00:35:04,553 There. 309 00:35:07,520 --> 00:35:09,272 Good day. 310 00:35:16,840 --> 00:35:18,558 Thank you. 311 00:35:26,480 --> 00:35:29,677 Good day. This is very kind of you. 312 00:35:29,760 --> 00:35:32,593 (Pipes playing) 313 00:36:56,280 --> 00:36:58,589 We would like to give you a hearty welcome... 314 00:36:58,680 --> 00:37:04,312 Moro's spokesman is David, once a fully... trained teacher in a missionary school. 315 00:37:04,400 --> 00:37:11,192 And we would like to let you know the main history of this island Isatab. 316 00:37:12,280 --> 00:37:18,753 In the beginning there was nothing but darkness. 317 00:37:18,840 --> 00:37:23,356 It was Irogali the creator. 318 00:37:23,440 --> 00:37:29,197 Irogali came down to the dry land and form three eggs. 319 00:37:30,240 --> 00:37:32,435 Two of the eggs hatched 320 00:37:32,520 --> 00:37:35,432 and there were two dogs. 321 00:37:35,520 --> 00:37:42,153 Irogali named them Lauwala and Lauwili. 322 00:37:43,040 --> 00:37:48,592 And there were people without mouth, limbs, 323 00:37:48,680 --> 00:37:50,830 and a voice appeared. 324 00:37:51,640 --> 00:37:58,751 These people's work is to keep the life and the power exist in the island. 325 00:38:02,880 --> 00:38:05,440 - Will you translate for me? - Yes, sir. 326 00:38:06,600 --> 00:38:11,196 Moro, and all people from this village. 327 00:38:11,280 --> 00:38:13,032 (Translates) 328 00:38:16,000 --> 00:38:21,154 I would like to thank you on behalf of all my companions 329 00:38:21,240 --> 00:38:23,959 for this great welcome that you have given us. 330 00:38:24,040 --> 00:38:26,793 (David translates) 331 00:38:26,880 --> 00:38:32,079 We know very little in London, where I come from, 332 00:38:32,160 --> 00:38:35,197 about the house of memories here. 333 00:38:35,280 --> 00:38:37,555 (Translates) 334 00:38:37,640 --> 00:38:42,714 And of all the things that you are teaching your people. 335 00:38:42,800 --> 00:38:45,394 (Translates) 336 00:38:45,920 --> 00:38:51,278 And I give you my thanks and my greetings from all the people that I represent 337 00:38:51,360 --> 00:38:53,920 for welcoming us so handsomely. 338 00:38:55,000 --> 00:38:58,390 (Translates) 339 00:39:05,240 --> 00:39:07,276 Thank you very much indeed. 340 00:39:08,560 --> 00:39:10,232 Thank you, Moro. 341 00:39:10,320 --> 00:39:11,275 Thank you. 342 00:39:12,160 --> 00:39:15,072 Moro's vision had come to him in a trance. 343 00:39:15,160 --> 00:39:19,517 Irogali the creator, had told him to disregard the Christian god 344 00:39:19,600 --> 00:39:22,512 and revive the old ways that were dying. 345 00:39:22,600 --> 00:39:27,958 The people must learn once more how to weave and carve and fish in the traditional manner. 346 00:39:28,040 --> 00:39:31,032 They must once again become men blong custom, 347 00:39:31,120 --> 00:39:32,951 for that was their birthright. 348 00:39:33,040 --> 00:39:35,793 Those ways are their ways. 349 00:39:35,880 --> 00:39:38,440 (Singing) 350 00:39:56,480 --> 00:39:58,436 But this revival of old crafts 351 00:39:58,520 --> 00:40:02,559 does not mean that everything from the outside world should be ignored. 352 00:40:02,640 --> 00:40:05,234 The people should take just what suited them. 353 00:40:05,320 --> 00:40:09,518 The white men had special cult houses that they called museums 354 00:40:09,600 --> 00:40:12,273 where they venerated treasures from the past. 355 00:40:12,360 --> 00:40:16,512 Very well, the people of Makaruka wanted to do just the same sort of thing, 356 00:40:16,600 --> 00:40:19,068 so they too should build such a place. 357 00:40:19,160 --> 00:40:22,630 But a stranger might only go into this house of memories 358 00:40:22,720 --> 00:40:25,598 if he showed proper reverence to the ancient gods 359 00:40:25,680 --> 00:40:28,353 and discarded his alien Western clothes 360 00:40:28,440 --> 00:40:32,877 and like everybody else in the settlement, wore only custom clothes. 361 00:40:58,720 --> 00:41:04,556 Reviving old dances is an important part of the life that Moro has planned for his people. 362 00:41:43,720 --> 00:41:47,713 20 years ago, anthropologists could find no sculpture whatever 363 00:41:47,800 --> 00:41:49,233 in this part of the island. 364 00:41:49,320 --> 00:41:51,311 All had been destroyed by missionaries 365 00:41:51,400 --> 00:41:55,393 or discarded by their Christian converts and carried away by visitors. 366 00:41:55,480 --> 00:41:57,710 Moro and his people had been forced, therefore, 367 00:41:57,800 --> 00:42:01,554 to reinvent the images they needed for their house of memories. 368 00:42:01,640 --> 00:42:05,030 Someone had seen labels on the exhibits in the white man's museums, 369 00:42:05,120 --> 00:42:07,759 so they provided the same here. 370 00:42:08,680 --> 00:42:12,832 "The memory of opposum. How the oppossum got plenty. " 371 00:42:12,920 --> 00:42:15,559 That is to say, brought wealth. 372 00:42:15,640 --> 00:42:22,273 The memory of Irogali the creator bird god that Moro saw in his trance. 373 00:42:25,920 --> 00:42:29,595 The memory of Lawili, the first man. 374 00:42:36,160 --> 00:42:40,233 From the house of memories, Moro took me to the most holy place of all. 375 00:42:40,320 --> 00:42:42,993 It is, in part, the community's treasury, 376 00:42:43,080 --> 00:42:46,755 for it's hung with hundreds of strings of shell money. 377 00:42:49,400 --> 00:42:53,473 - Well, what is this on the floor? - (Speaking local language) 378 00:42:58,320 --> 00:43:00,788 - It's, er... the island. - The island? 379 00:43:02,840 --> 00:43:06,355 And this one is oldest thing, huh? 380 00:43:08,720 --> 00:43:10,472 And this one? 381 00:43:15,800 --> 00:43:18,360 So that is... that is Irogali. 382 00:43:18,440 --> 00:43:20,158 I understand. 383 00:43:20,240 --> 00:43:22,435 And snakes? 384 00:43:22,520 --> 00:43:26,308 Are these ordinary snakes or are they spirit snakes? 385 00:43:27,680 --> 00:43:30,672 - They're not made by man. - They're not made by man? 386 00:43:30,760 --> 00:43:32,716 Picked by man but they're not made by man. 387 00:43:32,800 --> 00:43:35,792 - You mean you find them? - Find them from the ground. 388 00:43:35,880 --> 00:43:39,350 You found them in the ground. I see, so no man he cut this? 389 00:43:39,440 --> 00:43:41,396 - No one cut this. - No man. 390 00:43:48,280 --> 00:43:52,068 When we came out the people had assembled to hear Moro talk to me 391 00:43:52,160 --> 00:43:54,276 through David the interpreter. 392 00:43:54,360 --> 00:44:01,198 Why does Moro keep in the custom house these many things? 393 00:44:02,840 --> 00:44:06,435 He told me before when started that 394 00:44:06,520 --> 00:44:08,954 he would like to keep all these memories 395 00:44:09,040 --> 00:44:13,352 in order to prove that the people living in the island 396 00:44:13,440 --> 00:44:16,193 are true natives of the island. 397 00:44:16,280 --> 00:44:19,477 And it also shows that all these things 398 00:44:19,560 --> 00:44:24,315 will prove which line owns each part of the ground. 399 00:44:24,400 --> 00:44:29,633 Now, whenever they want to build business in the future nobody will pluck them out. 400 00:44:44,720 --> 00:44:48,156 This my land and I live in the land. 401 00:44:48,240 --> 00:44:50,754 Everything that is from the land is mine 402 00:44:50,840 --> 00:44:54,469 and anyone who wants it may... will pay for it. 403 00:44:55,560 --> 00:45:02,159 Why do Moro's people no longer wear any European clothes? 404 00:45:13,040 --> 00:45:17,158 This is to show how my people lived in the olden days. 405 00:45:22,680 --> 00:45:24,636 (# Pipes playing) 406 00:45:46,000 --> 00:45:50,630 All over the Pacific, people have lost the likenesses of their gods. 407 00:45:50,720 --> 00:45:53,473 It seems to many of them that in doing so 408 00:45:53,560 --> 00:45:56,233 they have lost their manna, their power, 409 00:45:56,320 --> 00:46:00,598 and that they will never regain their ancient dignity without it. 410 00:46:00,680 --> 00:46:06,357 So in Makaruka, Moro and his people are striving to create new images 411 00:46:06,440 --> 00:46:10,911 so that they may recapture some of the splendours of their past.