1 00:00:50,462 --> 00:00:55,013 I begin my crossing of Saudi Arabia On what my "Arab Gazette" tells me 2 00:00:55,182 --> 00:00:58,333 Is the start of Fifth National Cleaning Week. 3 00:00:58,502 --> 00:01:01,778 It's the start of my third Circumnavigating week 4 00:01:01,942 --> 00:01:04,410 And i've already lost Passepartout. 5 00:01:04,582 --> 00:01:09,702 He's not been allowed to film my journey From the Mecca bypass to the port of Dubai. 6 00:01:11,742 --> 00:01:16,020 On the first day, I see hardly any life Except for the occasional camel 7 00:01:16,182 --> 00:01:21,734 And a filling station where the temperature Registers 122 degrees Fahrenheit. 8 00:01:21,902 --> 00:01:24,370 The desert roads are a driver's dream, 9 00:01:24,542 --> 00:01:28,376 Modern six-lane highways Almost entirely empty. 10 00:01:28,542 --> 00:01:32,251 700 miles later, at Riyadh, The hottest capital on earth, 11 00:01:32,422 --> 00:01:35,380 I rent a car to take me to the Qatari border. 12 00:01:35,542 --> 00:01:40,297 There I am stranded until I get a lucky lift Into the Emirates. 13 00:01:40,462 --> 00:01:46,651 Then it's a taxi to rejoin Passepartout In Dubai at 2.30 on a Monday morning. 14 00:01:46,822 --> 00:01:50,451 I've travelled 1,347.5 miles, 15 00:01:50,622 --> 00:01:54,581 The equivalent of London to the Black Sea, In one weekend. 16 00:02:00,102 --> 00:02:03,936 That I had arrived in Dubai at all Was a small triumph. 17 00:02:04,102 --> 00:02:09,893 I'm even more cheered when I look out Onto a lively and cosmopolitan waterfront. 18 00:02:14,582 --> 00:02:17,574 And, at last, my first sight of a dhow. 19 00:02:17,742 --> 00:02:23,658 I'm told it's only crossword-loving Western Romantics who still call them dhows. 20 00:02:23,822 --> 00:02:28,338 To everyone here, they are launches Or coastal craft. 21 00:02:31,222 --> 00:02:36,899 The dhows are loaded in town with everything From livestock to laxatives. 22 00:02:38,222 --> 00:02:42,500 Best of all, from my point of view, The port seems full of them. 23 00:02:52,022 --> 00:02:54,661 My contact, Kamis, who works at the port, 24 00:02:54,822 --> 00:02:58,940 Tells me the trading season has just resumed After the monsoon. 25 00:02:59,102 --> 00:03:02,731 There are dhows heading down To Somalia and Zanzibar. 26 00:03:02,902 --> 00:03:05,735 And he's found one going my way, too. 27 00:03:05,902 --> 00:03:08,257 Allons y, Passepartout. 28 00:03:19,462 --> 00:03:21,418 Captain? 29 00:03:24,542 --> 00:03:26,772 Hello, good afternoon. 30 00:03:26,942 --> 00:03:30,730 - How are you? - Very well. You speak English? 31 00:03:30,902 --> 00:03:32,574 - Yes. - Good. 32 00:03:32,742 --> 00:03:37,179 - Where are you going to? Bombay? - I'm going to Bombay, yes. 33 00:03:37,342 --> 00:03:41,415 - I need a boat to take me to Bombay. - Oh, yes, why not? 34 00:03:41,582 --> 00:03:44,255 - Yes, why not? - That's confident. 35 00:03:44,422 --> 00:03:48,893 Unfortunately, I also have four other people. 36 00:03:49,062 --> 00:03:52,418 - They come with me. - Altogether five people? 37 00:03:52,582 --> 00:03:57,212 Five of us and a few cases And some equipment. 38 00:03:57,382 --> 00:04:02,217 Tomorrow you bring all your cases And baggage, you bring on the boat. 39 00:04:02,382 --> 00:04:05,613 - When do you leave? - We sail the day after tomorrow, 40 00:04:05,782 --> 00:04:08,979 But you bring your baggage Tomorrow evening. 41 00:04:09,142 --> 00:04:11,258 OK, you ready your baggage. 42 00:04:11,422 --> 00:04:15,700 How long will you take to Bombay? It is important I know. 43 00:04:15,862 --> 00:04:18,581 From here? Only six days. 44 00:04:18,742 --> 00:04:21,575 Six days? You are absolutely sure? 45 00:04:21,742 --> 00:04:24,893 - Yes. - May we have a look? Is that OK? 46 00:04:25,062 --> 00:04:27,940 - Can I inspect? - OK, you come with me. 47 00:04:28,102 --> 00:04:31,492 - Charming gentleman. - Come here all together. 48 00:04:31,662 --> 00:04:34,813 I'd have preferred tomorrow to the day after, 49 00:04:34,982 --> 00:04:37,621 But it's a firm and friendly offer. 50 00:04:37,782 --> 00:04:40,091 This is my cabin, sir. Come here. 51 00:04:44,542 --> 00:04:47,420 This is my bed of the captain. 52 00:04:47,582 --> 00:04:51,700 - And this bed is of the chief officer. - He has a bigger bed than you. 53 00:04:51,862 --> 00:04:54,660 We know who runs this ship, I see! 54 00:04:54,822 --> 00:04:58,258 - We go forward now. - I want to see the guest suite. 55 00:05:02,102 --> 00:05:06,254 By my calculations, these are the only Two beds among a crew of 18. 56 00:05:06,422 --> 00:05:09,732 Maybe this accounts For the friendly atmosphere. 57 00:05:14,422 --> 00:05:18,335 - What's this? What is in here? - The storerooms. 58 00:05:18,502 --> 00:05:21,096 I don't fancy sleeping down there. 59 00:05:21,262 --> 00:05:25,813 - We can, perhaps, sleep out here? - Yes, sleep here. Sleep on the cargo. 60 00:05:25,982 --> 00:05:27,654 Shall we look at the deck? 61 00:05:27,822 --> 00:05:30,290 This is indeed the Black Hole of Dubai. 62 00:05:30,462 --> 00:05:34,819 Sleeping anywhere, Even on sacks of cargo, was preferable. 63 00:05:43,502 --> 00:05:50,294 It's 100 degrees next morning at the world's Largest, probably only, dhow shipyard. 64 00:05:50,462 --> 00:05:54,501 They make reproductions Of medieval European trading ships, 65 00:05:54,662 --> 00:05:56,220 Which is what dhows are. 66 00:06:21,742 --> 00:06:26,099 In England, you'd only see scenes like this In a working museum. 67 00:06:26,262 --> 00:06:30,414 In Dubai, it represents the solid face Of commercial success. 68 00:06:30,582 --> 00:06:35,531 Dhow cargos provided a lifeline for Iran In the recent war with Iraq. 69 00:06:35,702 --> 00:06:39,377 The dhow trade is still flourishing After 500 years. 70 00:06:52,782 --> 00:06:58,573 If I'm to be six days at sea, I'll need to take provisions, but what? 71 00:06:58,742 --> 00:07:02,576 It'll be hot and there are no luxuries Like refrigeration. 72 00:07:02,742 --> 00:07:04,460 Start simple. 73 00:07:04,622 --> 00:07:07,455 I need some rice. I'm going on a dhow. 74 00:07:07,622 --> 00:07:11,854 I need rice for five people for a week. 75 00:07:12,022 --> 00:07:16,254 What is that? Is that basic? It looks like the rice we get at home. 76 00:07:18,822 --> 00:07:21,211 Yes, OK. 77 00:07:21,382 --> 00:07:24,499 Do you want a bag? This one? 78 00:07:24,662 --> 00:07:27,893 - You've got some in a bag! - Indian basmati. 79 00:07:28,062 --> 00:07:31,975 - How much is a bag? - 90 dirham. 80 00:07:32,142 --> 00:07:35,452 - That's good. Is that the cheapest? - No, the most. 81 00:07:35,622 --> 00:07:37,340 - The best? - Yes, best one. 82 00:07:37,502 --> 00:07:40,414 - That's the one from Pakistan. - Cheap, that. 83 00:07:43,262 --> 00:07:46,459 I think I will take a sack of that. How much was it? 84 00:07:46,622 --> 00:07:49,534 - It's 90 dirham. - 90 dirham. 85 00:07:49,702 --> 00:07:53,695 Which is, actually, more than I thought. It's about £15. 86 00:07:53,862 --> 00:07:58,378 I suppose that's all right. £15 for five people. 87 00:08:00,262 --> 00:08:03,174 OK. I need ten dirham change, please. 88 00:08:03,342 --> 00:08:04,934 Thank you. 89 00:08:05,102 --> 00:08:07,741 I hope you like rice! 90 00:08:15,982 --> 00:08:20,055 Preceded by the provisions - Crates of mineral water, 91 00:08:20,222 --> 00:08:26,457 Yards of toilet paper, tins of tuna chunks, Everything the western traveller needs - 92 00:08:26,622 --> 00:08:31,742 I board our dhow, Al-Sharma, Which means candle light in Arabic. 93 00:08:34,022 --> 00:08:36,980 It's my 18th day out of England, 94 00:08:37,142 --> 00:08:39,531 The day Fogg reached Bombay. 95 00:08:39,702 --> 00:08:43,251 Ahead lies an experience Nothing has prepared me for. 96 00:08:43,422 --> 00:08:48,815 As you can see from my outfit, I look like A junior minister on a fact finding tour. 97 00:08:50,862 --> 00:08:54,696 The captain has made sure The place is scrupulously clean. 98 00:08:54,862 --> 00:08:59,492 He assures me the paint work has been Washed not just with ordinary water, 99 00:08:59,662 --> 00:09:01,254 But with drinking water! 100 00:09:05,822 --> 00:09:08,017 It is all very strange. 101 00:09:08,182 --> 00:09:12,300 We are setting off for six days at sea, Out of radio contact, 102 00:09:12,462 --> 00:09:14,817 On a boat with not a lifebelt in sight 103 00:09:14,982 --> 00:09:17,701 And a crew who don't speak English. 104 00:09:22,382 --> 00:09:27,661 We're heading out into the Persian Gulf Where nine years of war are just ending. 105 00:09:27,822 --> 00:09:30,211 No wonder I didn't sleep last night! 106 00:09:42,862 --> 00:09:47,253 Getting rough. Those waves are 1.5 feet, definitely. 107 00:10:00,822 --> 00:10:05,100 The dhow operates almost entirely On human effort. 108 00:10:05,262 --> 00:10:10,461 The only machine on board Is the 280 h.p. British-made diesel engine. 109 00:10:10,622 --> 00:10:14,820 Everything else is done by hand, With everyone helping out. 110 00:10:14,982 --> 00:10:19,021 Teamwork isn't an option here. It's a matter of survival. 111 00:10:38,662 --> 00:10:41,051 (RHYTHMIC CHANTING) 112 00:11:06,542 --> 00:11:09,739 Everyone is terribly keen To make us comfortable. 113 00:11:09,902 --> 00:11:15,738 As protection from the heat, a tarpaulin is Raised above the sacks of dates and pistachios 114 00:11:15,902 --> 00:11:20,054 Which make up the floor Of our first-class deck accommodation. 115 00:11:27,022 --> 00:11:29,582 Captain Hassan, endlessly obliging, 116 00:11:29,742 --> 00:11:34,691 Flags down a passing colleague en route From Bombay for a weather forecast. 117 00:11:56,262 --> 00:11:59,572 - What was that? - This is our company launch. 118 00:11:59,742 --> 00:12:03,860 I was asking to him How the weather is in Bombay. 119 00:12:04,022 --> 00:12:07,173 - He says it's OK, nobody afraid. - Nobody afraid. 120 00:12:07,342 --> 00:12:10,175 - It's OK. - The weather is OK and the sea is OK. 121 00:12:10,342 --> 00:12:12,537 He would say that, wouldn't he?! 122 00:12:12,702 --> 00:12:16,331 They say nobody is afraid. They say it is OK. 123 00:12:16,502 --> 00:12:20,654 - This is our company line. - He's coming back on the same route? 124 00:12:20,822 --> 00:12:22,414 He's coming from Bombay. 125 00:12:22,582 --> 00:12:25,972 Will we see many more ships on the way? Woah! 126 00:12:26,142 --> 00:12:27,734 Please, careful. 127 00:12:27,902 --> 00:12:32,578 - Is that the... You have one other boat? - One more, yeah. 128 00:12:32,742 --> 00:12:35,620 So now we can relax till we get to Bombay? 129 00:12:35,782 --> 00:12:37,454 The weather's good? 130 00:12:37,622 --> 00:12:40,534 Everything is OK. He say nobody afraid. 131 00:12:40,702 --> 00:12:44,615 The sea looks harmless, as though Never a wave broke in anger, 132 00:12:44,782 --> 00:12:48,457 Yet I learned the captain's brother Drowned on this route 133 00:12:48,622 --> 00:12:52,581 When his dhow went down in a storm With all hands lost. 134 00:12:52,742 --> 00:12:57,452 The weather isn't the only danger. We're approaching the Strait of Hormuz. 135 00:12:57,622 --> 00:13:00,500 Assuming we miss the mines From the Gulf War, 136 00:13:00,662 --> 00:13:04,575 We still have to negotiate at night Without lights or radar 137 00:13:04,742 --> 00:13:07,859 One of the most tortuous channels In the world. 138 00:13:09,022 --> 00:13:11,297 Beyond the Strait lies the Gulf of Oman 139 00:13:11,462 --> 00:13:15,694 And four days on the wide unprotected waters Of the Arabian Sea. 140 00:13:22,222 --> 00:13:24,690 I'm trying to get everybody's name. 141 00:13:24,862 --> 00:13:27,899 I want all the names. You write your name, Anwar. 142 00:13:29,822 --> 00:13:32,177 - You're Mohammed. - Yes, Mohammed. 143 00:13:32,342 --> 00:13:36,335 - And you are the father of... - Yes, my son, Anwar. 144 00:13:36,502 --> 00:13:39,460 - I am father. - Anwar is very good, yeah. 145 00:13:39,622 --> 00:13:46,619 And Mohammed, you said... Tell me about Your brothers. You've got three brothers. 146 00:13:46,782 --> 00:13:49,012 Four brothers. 147 00:13:49,182 --> 00:13:51,935 What do they all do? 148 00:13:52,102 --> 00:13:55,139 One is in port in my country. 149 00:13:55,302 --> 00:14:00,217 - The second is in ship. Helmsman. - Helmsman, yes. 150 00:14:00,382 --> 00:14:02,976 - My number three. - You are number three. 151 00:14:03,142 --> 00:14:06,020 Yes, and number four is Captain Hassan. 152 00:14:06,182 --> 00:14:09,413 So, you are the brother of the captain? 153 00:14:09,582 --> 00:14:12,142 It's all wheels within wheels here. 154 00:14:12,302 --> 00:14:17,774 And everyone here Is from the same part of India? 155 00:14:17,942 --> 00:14:20,581 Same country. Manui. 156 00:14:20,742 --> 00:14:23,939 - Yeah? - Manui, our country name is Manui. 157 00:14:24,102 --> 00:14:25,854 - Name is? - Manui. 158 00:14:26,022 --> 00:14:31,540 Will you write down, Anwar, The country where you all come from? 159 00:14:33,262 --> 00:14:36,493 - But you are from Gujarat? Is that right? - Yeah. 160 00:14:36,662 --> 00:14:42,532 The Gujarat part of India. Mohammed, Where did you learn to speak English? 161 00:14:42,702 --> 00:14:47,298 Yes, I was before a sailor on big ship, Tanker ship. 162 00:14:47,462 --> 00:14:49,373 You learnt as a sailor? 163 00:14:49,542 --> 00:14:52,579 British ship. Tanker. Oil tanker. 164 00:14:52,742 --> 00:14:57,577 You went on British ships? So, you've been on long journeys? 165 00:14:57,742 --> 00:15:01,621 - Yeah. - Which do you like best? 166 00:15:01,782 --> 00:15:06,333 A big tanker going to Hong Kong or Brazil, 167 00:15:06,502 --> 00:15:09,380 Or this boat? Which do you like best? 168 00:15:09,542 --> 00:15:13,615 This I like, but big tanker is plenty money. 169 00:15:13,782 --> 00:15:17,138 They pay you more on a tanker than on here? 170 00:15:17,302 --> 00:15:21,215 - Tanker pay? - Tanker pay good? 171 00:15:21,382 --> 00:15:22,701 Very good. 172 00:15:22,862 --> 00:15:25,695 - Is this pay good? - No, rotten! 173 00:15:25,862 --> 00:15:27,295 300 only. 174 00:15:27,462 --> 00:15:32,377 - 300... What would that be? Dirham? - Rupees. 175 00:15:32,542 --> 00:15:35,534 - Indian rupees. - 300 rupees for the journey. 176 00:15:35,702 --> 00:15:38,341 Tanker, you get 1,100 rupees. 177 00:15:38,502 --> 00:15:40,493 Yet you still like it here? 178 00:15:40,662 --> 00:15:42,857 - Yes, I like. - You must be crazy! 179 00:15:43,022 --> 00:15:46,094 - You're crazy, Mohammed! - No, this is good life! 180 00:15:46,262 --> 00:15:48,298 - Yes. - What is so good? 181 00:15:48,462 --> 00:15:53,536 - Why do you like it? - Good climate and all my countrymen. 182 00:15:53,702 --> 00:15:57,456 It's because you've got your son, Your brother, your uncle. 183 00:15:57,622 --> 00:16:00,090 - All your family. - Yes, same family! 184 00:16:11,222 --> 00:16:13,736 Dhow life takes some getting used to. 185 00:16:13,902 --> 00:16:19,659 I must remember that the sun sets fast and Once it's gone there are no electric lights. 186 00:16:19,822 --> 00:16:22,700 That's why I'm making my bed at teatime. 187 00:16:23,702 --> 00:16:26,978 I haven't done anything like this For a long time. 188 00:16:51,862 --> 00:16:54,422 It's all the exercise I get all day. 189 00:16:54,582 --> 00:16:58,291 It's the equivalent to a very short jog... 190 00:16:59,782 --> 00:17:01,898 ...for a one-legged man. 191 00:17:13,582 --> 00:17:15,220 There we are. 192 00:17:15,382 --> 00:17:19,853 It may all look a bit odd, But I had to get this in Dubai 193 00:17:20,022 --> 00:17:23,810 In about two hours flat The night before we left. 194 00:17:26,742 --> 00:17:32,214 They don't have camping shops, Which I didn't realise until quite late on. 195 00:17:32,382 --> 00:17:38,252 So, there was a lot of hanging round shopping Malls and going into bedding shops. 196 00:17:38,422 --> 00:17:40,413 All this is a real mishmash. 197 00:17:40,582 --> 00:17:44,052 I rather like my little Embroidered pillow, though. 198 00:17:44,222 --> 00:17:47,658 Very nice, but hardly your butch camping gear. 199 00:17:47,822 --> 00:17:50,655 And... This is an extra blanket, 200 00:17:50,822 --> 00:17:55,293 But it is so hot - it's sort of Above 90 at night as well - 201 00:17:55,462 --> 00:17:58,056 So I think i'll just... Start with that. 202 00:17:58,222 --> 00:18:00,338 Doesn't look too bad. 203 00:18:00,502 --> 00:18:03,255 As long as I don't get a puncture. 204 00:18:18,302 --> 00:18:20,213 (ENGINE STOPS) 205 00:18:28,462 --> 00:18:31,499 Captain, why have we stopped? 206 00:18:31,662 --> 00:18:35,860 Sorry, the plastic bag Is broken of the water pipe. 207 00:18:36,022 --> 00:18:39,298 - The plastic tube in the engine? - Yes. It is broken. 208 00:18:39,462 --> 00:18:43,137 - That's the water that cools the engine? - Yes. 209 00:18:44,742 --> 00:18:48,257 It's hot down there. A blast of hot air. 210 00:19:00,182 --> 00:19:02,173 You put it on like this. 211 00:19:06,702 --> 00:19:11,537 What the well-dressed dhow purser Is wearing in 1988. 212 00:19:12,902 --> 00:19:15,132 - It's back to front. - Is it? 213 00:19:16,142 --> 00:19:18,531 What do you mean back to front? 214 00:19:19,542 --> 00:19:21,339 Oh, it's inside out. 215 00:19:26,942 --> 00:19:29,775 Fashion advisors! See, a whistle. 216 00:19:29,942 --> 00:19:35,141 Very complicated. You have to unscrew this And stick a gas cylinder in 217 00:19:35,302 --> 00:19:37,577 And then it goes... PSSH! 218 00:19:42,022 --> 00:19:45,856 Why are you all putting life jackets On at the moment? 219 00:19:47,142 --> 00:19:50,259 Why are you all putting life jackets on? 220 00:19:50,422 --> 00:19:53,698 They tell me it's just a piece of pump gone. 221 00:19:53,862 --> 00:19:58,777 He's not even putting the life jacket on! He's abandoning ship straight away! 222 00:19:58,942 --> 00:20:01,615 Osman, what is the problem? 223 00:20:01,782 --> 00:20:04,137 - Sharks. - I know there are sharks. 224 00:20:05,542 --> 00:20:08,659 This is the Straits of Hormuz, everybody! 225 00:20:08,822 --> 00:20:14,055 Those metallic things going by are just... Flotsam and jetsam. 226 00:20:23,422 --> 00:20:26,175 (ENGINE KICKS INTO LIFE) 227 00:20:35,102 --> 00:20:37,741 - You had to do it yourself? - Yeah. 228 00:20:37,902 --> 00:20:40,780 - It's finished now. - It's OK? New bit of pipe? 229 00:20:40,942 --> 00:20:44,935 Yes, we had a spare. It is all right now. 230 00:20:45,102 --> 00:20:48,299 You're confident for the rest of the journey? 231 00:20:48,462 --> 00:20:51,215 They said to start it. We go ahead and start. 232 00:20:51,382 --> 00:20:53,737 - OK, sir? - Yes, now it is OK. 233 00:20:53,902 --> 00:20:57,451 - It has worked out. - No problem. 234 00:21:10,142 --> 00:21:15,296 After what feels like an eternity, The engine note builds encouragingly 235 00:21:15,462 --> 00:21:17,851 And the pump begins working again. 236 00:21:57,822 --> 00:22:01,053 What's this doing here? Ah, yes. 237 00:22:03,262 --> 00:22:05,776 A bit more interesting last night. 238 00:22:05,942 --> 00:22:08,934 Pitching and tossing In the middle of the night. 239 00:22:09,102 --> 00:22:12,492 Lots of dreams About testing fairground equipment. 240 00:22:12,662 --> 00:22:18,020 Also much colder. I couldn't find my blanket In the middle of the night. 241 00:22:18,182 --> 00:22:21,652 Went off to the loo, which is quite perilous. 242 00:22:21,822 --> 00:22:24,541 Lose a lot of men overboard that way. 243 00:22:24,702 --> 00:22:27,341 Got the old towel out. 244 00:22:30,142 --> 00:22:34,613 We're not even in the big sea yet. That's promised for 11.00. 245 00:22:35,382 --> 00:22:37,498 I'm quite decent. 246 00:22:42,262 --> 00:22:44,856 So a new pattern of life begins. 247 00:22:45,022 --> 00:22:47,661 Up at first light and a visit to the loo. 248 00:22:47,822 --> 00:22:52,179 The plumbing is basic. They favour the hole in the barrel system. 249 00:22:52,342 --> 00:22:55,812 Using it is nowhere near as alarming As getting to it. 250 00:22:55,982 --> 00:23:00,419 The approach is scorchingly hot by day And suicidal at night, 251 00:23:00,582 --> 00:23:04,370 But once installed, One enjoys direct contact with nature. 252 00:23:04,542 --> 00:23:09,775 This is rather a shock and causes my bowels To lock solid for three days. 253 00:23:35,542 --> 00:23:38,181 Breakfast is over by 7.00. 254 00:23:38,342 --> 00:23:41,175 By 7.30, they are preparing the lunch. 255 00:23:55,022 --> 00:23:58,059 Anwar crushes chillies on a stone slab, 256 00:23:58,222 --> 00:24:01,851 Whilst Ali Mamoun, the cook, washes the rice. 257 00:24:10,302 --> 00:24:14,261 The hut on his left Is not an open-plan dog kennel, 258 00:24:14,422 --> 00:24:19,701 But the galley, from which he produces Three meals for 22 people every day. 259 00:24:27,262 --> 00:24:30,891 Navigation techniques are... Traditional. 260 00:24:31,062 --> 00:24:35,499 Satellite has not yet superseded The sextant and the notebook. 261 00:24:36,662 --> 00:24:41,816 It looks quaint, but it's disconcerting To think our lives depend on it. 262 00:24:41,982 --> 00:24:45,019 Everything about this boat poses the question - 263 00:24:45,182 --> 00:24:48,618 Just how much technology is really necessary? 264 00:24:50,102 --> 00:24:53,572 The Al-Sharma crew Live simply but efficiently. 265 00:24:53,742 --> 00:24:58,532 Everything they do works, which is more Than can be said for living in London. 266 00:25:27,622 --> 00:25:31,774 Back in the captain's cabin, Deyji Ramji begins the slow process 267 00:25:31,942 --> 00:25:36,732 Of transferring from sextant to notebook To a faded British Admiralty chart 268 00:25:36,902 --> 00:25:40,099 The information as to where we actually are. 269 00:25:43,262 --> 00:25:45,776 57.31 longitude. 270 00:25:47,302 --> 00:25:50,533 Resources are limited, but always shared. 271 00:25:50,702 --> 00:25:53,614 Their food quickly becomes our food, too. 272 00:25:53,782 --> 00:25:58,219 Captain, how many people cook? How many people make this? 273 00:25:58,382 --> 00:26:02,261 - Only one people. - Only one? That is Ali Mamoun. 274 00:26:02,422 --> 00:26:05,175 - His name Ali Mamoun. - He's very good. 275 00:26:05,902 --> 00:26:10,532 - Is this rice? - Sag. Sag. 276 00:26:10,702 --> 00:26:16,140 There's sag in there. I know sag. We have sag in England and kasiri. 277 00:26:16,302 --> 00:26:19,055 - Kasiri and sag. - Kasiri and sag. 278 00:26:19,222 --> 00:26:23,056 This Indian piece. Its name is bombula, bombula. 279 00:26:23,222 --> 00:26:27,977 It looks like a bean to me, but it isn't. This is a good piece? 280 00:26:28,142 --> 00:26:31,054 - Yes, good piece. - What will this do to me? 281 00:26:31,222 --> 00:26:34,214 It's a good piece. I buy it from Bombay. 282 00:26:34,382 --> 00:26:35,895 Mmm. 283 00:26:36,062 --> 00:26:38,292 It is from Bombay. Try this. 284 00:26:38,462 --> 00:26:41,101 It is vegetable? It's not meat? 285 00:26:41,262 --> 00:26:44,538 - You like it? - Yes, it's good. It tastes like meat. 286 00:26:44,702 --> 00:26:47,216 - But it's not. Is it a vegetable? - Yes. 287 00:26:47,382 --> 00:26:51,261 - Bomla. Tastes sort of meaty. - Bombala. 288 00:26:52,862 --> 00:26:56,537 - Do you eat meat? - Yes, but not cow. 289 00:26:56,702 --> 00:26:58,738 - Not cow. - Hen. Chicken. 290 00:26:58,902 --> 00:27:00,221 Chicken. 291 00:27:00,382 --> 00:27:03,818 - Sea goat, he goat, but not cow. - You eat sea goat? 292 00:27:03,982 --> 00:27:06,542 - She goat. - Oh, she goat! 293 00:27:06,702 --> 00:27:09,296 Yes, but not cow and not buffalo. 294 00:27:09,462 --> 00:27:12,022 Yes, we are nobody's buffalo! 295 00:27:12,182 --> 00:27:18,337 And the other one is sheep. Sheep is good, uh? You know sheep? 296 00:27:18,502 --> 00:27:21,096 - The other one is sheep. - Sheep. 297 00:27:21,262 --> 00:27:25,540 - Is goat good? - Yes. Drink this in buttermilk. 298 00:27:25,702 --> 00:27:30,617 - We buy it from Dubai. - Dubai? 299 00:27:30,782 --> 00:27:35,856 Put inside the buttermilk and put the kasiri In and eat, OK? 300 00:27:36,022 --> 00:27:39,139 You put a bit of buttermilk in. 301 00:27:40,062 --> 00:27:42,098 A bit like that. 302 00:27:45,102 --> 00:27:48,253 - Buttermilk in, and then... - Put in kasiri. 303 00:27:53,222 --> 00:27:56,498 - Very good. - Mix it all in. 304 00:27:59,262 --> 00:28:03,733 There we are, i've got all the buttermilk In with the kasiri. 305 00:28:03,902 --> 00:28:07,781 - It is cold. - It is cold? Yes? 306 00:28:09,382 --> 00:28:14,410 - I'm turning into Billy Bunter. - Now you eat it properly, OK? 307 00:28:14,902 --> 00:28:16,654 All right. 308 00:28:18,742 --> 00:28:23,896 When I make a noise like Kasim at the end Of it, i'll know i've had a good meal! 309 00:28:30,862 --> 00:28:34,537 - Now you're like Dahwood. - Dahwood is the quartermaster. 310 00:28:34,702 --> 00:28:37,580 Same like him. Tall man! 311 00:28:37,742 --> 00:28:41,974 Tall, rather good-looking man, I think. 312 00:28:42,142 --> 00:28:43,814 Like me. 313 00:28:45,822 --> 00:28:50,691 So good is the food that our tins Of tuna chunks remain unopened. 314 00:28:50,862 --> 00:28:52,659 (CHANTING) 315 00:29:02,902 --> 00:29:05,655 We move agonisingly slowly, 316 00:29:05,822 --> 00:29:09,132 A little over 200 miles every 24 hours. 317 00:29:09,302 --> 00:29:12,612 But I must just get used to not hurrying. 318 00:29:26,982 --> 00:29:30,338 With the last meal of the day over by 5.30, 319 00:29:30,502 --> 00:29:34,290 There is little else to do But prepare for bed again. 320 00:29:54,502 --> 00:29:58,654 The bathroom accommodation, Like everything else, is shared. 321 00:29:58,822 --> 00:30:03,020 It's the kitchen in the morning And the laundry in the afternoon. 322 00:30:03,182 --> 00:30:05,377 The Gujaratis are expert bathers 323 00:30:05,542 --> 00:30:08,932 And they regard my first efforts Highly critically. 324 00:30:12,302 --> 00:30:14,213 (LAUGHTER) 325 00:30:31,702 --> 00:30:34,978 I think it's my towel They are laughing at here. 326 00:30:50,222 --> 00:30:52,782 Eventually, I lose the studio audience, 327 00:30:52,942 --> 00:30:57,572 But not Passepartout, who has the cheek To claim he's shooting the sunset. 328 00:30:57,742 --> 00:31:01,940 Cheek is possibly an unfortunate term, But you know what I mean. 329 00:31:21,942 --> 00:31:25,139 Third day, or is it the fourth day On the dhow? 330 00:31:25,302 --> 00:31:28,294 The pace changes so little, it's hard to tell. 331 00:31:40,902 --> 00:31:46,534 The galley do try to ring the changes And today they're making chips, just for us. 332 00:31:46,702 --> 00:31:50,138 I can't imagine the crew Forsaking chapatis for these 333 00:31:50,302 --> 00:31:53,533 Any more than eating The tuna chunks we offer them. 334 00:31:53,702 --> 00:31:56,057 But there are things they do like. 335 00:31:56,222 --> 00:31:58,417 You put them on like that. 336 00:32:00,062 --> 00:32:01,381 OK? 337 00:32:03,582 --> 00:32:05,857 How is that, Kasim? All right? 338 00:32:06,022 --> 00:32:09,094 Now, prepare yourself for Bruce Springsteen. 339 00:32:09,262 --> 00:32:13,699 It may have a serious effect, but tell me To stop if you don't like it. 340 00:32:15,662 --> 00:32:17,493 You like it? 341 00:32:17,662 --> 00:32:19,175 Good beat? 342 00:32:23,422 --> 00:32:28,815 This must be the oddest audience for "The Wild, the Innocent and the E Street Shuffle"! 343 00:32:29,582 --> 00:32:31,493 It's good, isn't it? 344 00:32:42,462 --> 00:32:45,101 Tweak the sound up a bit, see what happens. 345 00:32:48,462 --> 00:32:50,134 Unbelievable! 346 00:32:50,302 --> 00:32:52,293 What this man can take! 347 00:32:52,462 --> 00:32:57,252 It's full volume now. Kasim, are you all right in there?! 348 00:33:04,262 --> 00:33:07,220 A lot of saxophone, honking saxophone there! 349 00:33:07,982 --> 00:33:11,895 New Jersey heart-rending stuff, isn't it? 350 00:33:15,342 --> 00:33:19,972 After the Springsteen concert, A different rhythm establishes itself. 351 00:33:20,142 --> 00:33:22,781 Hot, but without urgency. 352 00:33:22,942 --> 00:33:27,413 The sort of day when the sight of a seabird Is a newsworthy event. 353 00:33:35,422 --> 00:33:40,098 So we pass out of the Gulf of Oman And into the Arabian Sea. 354 00:33:40,262 --> 00:33:43,698 As the day grows hotter and the birds fewer, 355 00:33:43,862 --> 00:33:46,581 I dream verses of "The Ancient Mariner". 356 00:33:46,742 --> 00:33:50,212 "Day after day, day after day, 357 00:33:50,382 --> 00:33:52,657 "We struck nor breath nor motion 358 00:33:52,822 --> 00:33:56,974 "As idle as a painted ship Upon a painted ocean." 359 00:34:12,302 --> 00:34:13,974 But we are not alone. 360 00:34:14,142 --> 00:34:18,374 A squadron of dolphins, Probably as bored as us, buzzes the bows. 361 00:34:18,542 --> 00:34:20,578 (WHISTLING CALLS) 362 00:34:57,342 --> 00:34:59,412 (CHANTING) 363 00:35:19,622 --> 00:35:23,217 Kasim gives thanks to Allah For another day safely over. 364 00:35:23,382 --> 00:35:26,101 And by 8.00, I am asleep. 365 00:35:28,022 --> 00:35:30,980 If Allah is still on our side the next morning, 366 00:35:31,142 --> 00:35:34,373 I'll be a few dozen miles Further round the world. 367 00:35:42,342 --> 00:35:44,697 Allah must be in a benevolent mood. 368 00:35:44,862 --> 00:35:48,980 For the first time, conditions are right For the sail to be raised. 369 00:35:49,142 --> 00:35:54,694 Captain Hassan mucks in with the crew, as he Expects the cabin boys and Kasim to do, too, 370 00:35:54,862 --> 00:36:00,937 Although at first Kasim has lighter duties, Such as blessing the sail using incense. 371 00:36:10,062 --> 00:36:12,701 (ALL SINGING) 372 00:36:22,582 --> 00:36:27,372 With their tall T-shirts, carefully packed Trousers and wide smiles, 373 00:36:27,542 --> 00:36:31,501 The crew resembles an eager chorus From a Christmas panto. 374 00:36:31,662 --> 00:36:34,699 The jollity disguises slow, back-breaking work. 375 00:37:57,782 --> 00:37:59,579 Very good! 376 00:38:02,222 --> 00:38:03,940 Amazing. 377 00:38:04,102 --> 00:38:08,254 Quite a feat. Very clever. Everyone knows what to do. 378 00:38:08,422 --> 00:38:10,617 I saw you were doing your bit. 379 00:38:20,582 --> 00:38:24,052 Once the sail is hoisted, I look hopefully over the side 380 00:38:24,222 --> 00:38:28,340 For some tangible proof of its effect On our speed. 381 00:38:28,502 --> 00:38:33,132 It may push us over the eight knots Average - less than ten miles per hour. 382 00:38:33,302 --> 00:38:35,736 Might even bring us early into Bombay. 383 00:38:37,982 --> 00:38:41,736 By now, a city or land of any kind Seems a remote concept. 384 00:38:41,902 --> 00:38:45,975 I miss neither. I am adapting very happily To life on a dhow. 385 00:38:46,142 --> 00:38:52,138 I feel safe, unrushed and, apart from Pistachios in my back at night, relaxed. 386 00:39:00,782 --> 00:39:02,454 Oh, dear. 387 00:39:02,622 --> 00:39:05,011 Well, so much for the idyll. 388 00:39:05,182 --> 00:39:08,857 Last night was a bit Of a long night of the soul. 389 00:39:09,022 --> 00:39:13,174 Lovely night, clear skies, stars, Moon on the water. 390 00:39:13,342 --> 00:39:21,613 Perfect! About three hours into it I was Struck by either Bombay Bum or Dhow Dose. 391 00:39:22,622 --> 00:39:27,491 Something entered my digestive system That wasn't wanted there. 392 00:39:27,662 --> 00:39:32,497 So, I made three trips, no less, To the pulpit over there. 393 00:39:32,662 --> 00:39:36,575 The dhow is busy at night. They're up doing things. 394 00:39:36,742 --> 00:39:39,210 Every time I went by, "Hello, Michael!" 395 00:39:39,382 --> 00:39:42,374 On the second trip, I only just made it in time. 396 00:39:42,542 --> 00:39:46,979 They were having a meal. "Michael, come sit down. Chapati?" 397 00:39:47,142 --> 00:39:52,296 So the realities aren't always Quite as nice as the romance. 398 00:39:55,342 --> 00:40:01,781 Dhow travel can be tough. Oh, dear, Just the thought of a chapati makes me... 399 00:40:03,182 --> 00:40:05,650 ...makes me want to go home! 400 00:40:09,702 --> 00:40:14,378 In my state of distress, everything On the boat is tinged with menace. 401 00:40:14,542 --> 00:40:19,457 Is this man baiting a fish hook or preparing For hideous marine surgery? 402 00:40:19,622 --> 00:40:23,217 Is there anything I can do about it if he is? 403 00:40:23,382 --> 00:40:26,021 Oh, if only I'd listened to Alan Whicker! 404 00:40:33,502 --> 00:40:38,451 If I lie still and no one mentions food, I think I can hold out. 405 00:40:43,422 --> 00:40:45,811 Unfortunately, i've chosen a bad day. 406 00:40:45,982 --> 00:40:49,372 We're entering the shallow coastal waters Off India 407 00:40:49,542 --> 00:40:52,010 And food is suddenly everywhere. 408 00:40:54,582 --> 00:40:56,493 (SHOUTING) 409 00:41:53,382 --> 00:41:55,179 What kind of fish is it? 410 00:41:55,342 --> 00:41:57,219 - Gedri. - It's a gedri. 411 00:41:57,382 --> 00:42:00,021 Before was an arbrous. 412 00:42:00,182 --> 00:42:02,138 Arbrous before. 413 00:42:02,302 --> 00:42:07,296 Just my luck, the day I'm off my food. Two of the biggest fish you've caught. 414 00:42:07,462 --> 00:42:10,693 - Chicken of the sea. - That is chicken of the sea? 415 00:42:12,102 --> 00:42:16,414 Today I feel a curious affinity With the chicken of the sea. 416 00:42:16,582 --> 00:42:20,177 It looks as if we're both being dealt with In the same way. 417 00:42:21,262 --> 00:42:23,981 I can't bear it! Argh! 418 00:42:26,662 --> 00:42:30,416 Ohh! This is not for prime time television. 419 00:42:31,902 --> 00:42:34,462 This is for indigestion, I hope he knows. 420 00:42:35,182 --> 00:42:39,460 Walk on the... Argh... Englishman! 421 00:42:43,982 --> 00:42:48,851 I tell you, it's terrible pain! You would not believe! 422 00:42:49,022 --> 00:42:54,858 Being ill and suddenly Kasim Comes and walks all over me! 423 00:42:58,182 --> 00:43:02,016 I think he's going to do a marathon. I think it is 26 miles. 424 00:43:04,982 --> 00:43:10,375 It's all right on the lower part of the leg, But when he gets on the upper part it's... 425 00:43:10,542 --> 00:43:12,578 Argh! 426 00:43:13,542 --> 00:43:18,741 It certainly makes me forget the pain I have! 427 00:43:26,222 --> 00:43:28,531 A dhow is no place to be ill. 428 00:43:28,702 --> 00:43:33,571 There's nowhere comfortable, Nowhere cool, nowhere to hide. 429 00:43:33,742 --> 00:43:39,374 Simple luxuries become appealing, like A decent bed and a room that stays still. 430 00:43:39,542 --> 00:43:45,060 All I want now is for the journey to end And for me to be somewhere else. 431 00:44:08,702 --> 00:44:11,535 Now then, let me put that in there. 432 00:44:15,382 --> 00:44:17,418 There we are. So... 433 00:44:19,582 --> 00:44:24,861 ...we've done that bit. South wind. We crossed the Tropic of Cancer again. 434 00:44:25,022 --> 00:44:27,582 We crossed it once in the Red Sea. 435 00:44:29,102 --> 00:44:32,333 So, look, i've got to do all that. 436 00:44:32,502 --> 00:44:37,735 Down there... And right across there. 437 00:44:37,902 --> 00:44:40,416 Just as well I'm not doing it by dhow. 438 00:44:40,582 --> 00:44:43,699 Still... It's Madagascar. 439 00:44:43,862 --> 00:44:46,660 - Have you been? - You can get to Madagascar. 440 00:44:46,822 --> 00:44:50,098 In a dhow? Just a sailboat, no engine? 441 00:44:50,262 --> 00:44:53,937 You've been to Madagascar? That's a long way. 442 00:44:54,102 --> 00:44:57,333 India to Madagascar, how many days? 443 00:44:59,342 --> 00:45:02,652 - Er... 52. - 52 days? 444 00:45:03,902 --> 00:45:08,692 - From sail, sail. - I know, just from sail. 445 00:45:08,862 --> 00:45:10,739 No engine, yeah. 446 00:45:10,902 --> 00:45:15,737 I see, you go down there with the winds, Like the Trade Winds, yeah. 447 00:45:16,982 --> 00:45:21,976 The captain has decided we cannot make Bombay before the customs office shuts. 448 00:45:22,142 --> 00:45:28,297 So I must resign myself and my undisciplined Stomach to a seventh night at sea. 449 00:45:36,022 --> 00:45:40,732 We who boarded the dhow With such eagerness in Dubai 450 00:45:40,902 --> 00:45:43,939 Now strain for a first glimpse of India. 451 00:45:52,422 --> 00:45:57,018 The Indian Ensign goes up as if to reconfirm National responsibilities 452 00:45:57,182 --> 00:45:59,377 After a week of independence. 453 00:45:59,542 --> 00:46:03,091 The mood on board Becomes businesslike and a little tense 454 00:46:03,262 --> 00:46:06,732 As we draw closer To the powerful skyline of Bombay. 455 00:46:07,822 --> 00:46:12,100 The customs officers will go over A dhow from Dubai very thoroughly. 456 00:46:12,262 --> 00:46:15,538 It's the main route For smuggling gold into India. 457 00:46:15,702 --> 00:46:18,262 (RHYTHMIC CHANTING) 458 00:46:56,022 --> 00:47:00,891 The ship's lifeboat, which would have been Totally inadequate for 22 people, 459 00:47:01,062 --> 00:47:04,020 Is lowered, with much helpful advice, 460 00:47:04,182 --> 00:47:07,413 Into waters which give murkiness A bad name. 461 00:47:12,942 --> 00:47:16,059 Time to go. Bye, Suliman. Bye, Suliman II. 462 00:47:16,222 --> 00:47:18,782 Bye, Yusef. Bye, Mohammed. 463 00:47:18,942 --> 00:47:21,775 Goodbye! Bye-bye. Bye, Yacoub. 464 00:47:23,062 --> 00:47:25,053 Bye-bye, Kasim! 465 00:47:28,742 --> 00:47:32,576 Thanks very much! You are very nice people. Very good crew! 466 00:47:32,742 --> 00:47:35,575 I will always sail with you. Thank you! 467 00:47:37,782 --> 00:47:39,773 Anwar! 468 00:47:39,942 --> 00:47:44,857 You carry on. You will be an admiral of the fleet! 469 00:48:05,742 --> 00:48:11,055 I know i've felt rotten and I know we've been Nearly eight days at sea instead of six, 470 00:48:11,222 --> 00:48:14,658 But I am very sad to leave Captain Hassan And his crew. 471 00:48:14,822 --> 00:48:20,818 We trusted our lives to these people and they Responded with generosity and openness. 472 00:48:21,422 --> 00:48:24,459 I know I shall never again on this journey 473 00:48:24,622 --> 00:48:27,978 Enjoy such simple, Straightforward friendships 474 00:48:28,142 --> 00:48:30,736 As I made with the crew of the Al-Sharma. 475 00:48:30,902 --> 00:48:36,932 At this moment, it is almost impossible To accept that i'll never see them again.