1 00:00:46,247 --> 00:00:51,605 Singapore by night. Time to say goodbye To the Yugoslavs who brought me here. 2 00:00:51,767 --> 00:00:54,839 Sorry I didn't finish the painting. 3 00:00:55,007 --> 00:00:57,680 - Bye-bye. - Bye-bye! 4 00:00:57,847 --> 00:01:00,236 Thank you, chief engineer man! 5 00:01:00,407 --> 00:01:03,365 The cleanest engine room in the business! 6 00:01:09,847 --> 00:01:13,806 I'm late. My connection to Hong Kong May have already sailed, 7 00:01:13,967 --> 00:01:16,720 But at this moment it seems unimportant, 8 00:01:16,887 --> 00:01:19,799 Such is the effect of a Yugoslav farewell. 9 00:01:22,367 --> 00:01:24,039 I gather there's a rush. 10 00:01:24,207 --> 00:01:26,323 Passepartout is not so cheerful. 11 00:01:26,487 --> 00:01:31,038 The connecting boat has sailed, But she's lying four miles off Singapore 12 00:01:31,207 --> 00:01:33,482 And if we can get there, we'll board! 13 00:01:33,647 --> 00:01:37,196 It's nice to see you all again. We've missed you. 14 00:01:37,367 --> 00:01:41,326 Missed someone to carry The sound equipment! 15 00:01:42,647 --> 00:01:46,083 So this is Singapore, gateway to the Orient. 16 00:01:46,247 --> 00:01:47,839 Or is it Leicester? 17 00:01:48,007 --> 00:01:51,795 I thought I'd see the world on this trip. I can't see a thing! 18 00:01:53,487 --> 00:01:57,366 This is the second time i've been to Singapore and not seen it! 19 00:01:57,527 --> 00:02:00,678 - I went through the airport... - No Raffles Hotel. 20 00:02:00,847 --> 00:02:05,637 After a sobering dash across The busiest harbour i've ever seen, 21 00:02:05,807 --> 00:02:08,605 We come to rest below a wall of solid steel. 22 00:02:08,767 --> 00:02:11,406 Watch your back against the gangway! 23 00:02:15,247 --> 00:02:18,922 Lit up, far above me, Are the words Neptune Diamond, 24 00:02:19,087 --> 00:02:21,760 Up to now, just a name in a phone message. 25 00:02:21,927 --> 00:02:26,159 It's 3.15 in the morning and i've made it! 26 00:02:41,047 --> 00:02:44,357 I've reached the southernmost point Of the journey, 27 00:02:44,527 --> 00:02:46,757 Just 100 miles from the equator. 28 00:02:46,927 --> 00:02:51,045 I've turned the corner And am heading north for the first time. 29 00:02:52,607 --> 00:02:58,318 And, for the first time since Jeddah, I feel optimism creeping into my bones. 30 00:02:58,487 --> 00:03:02,480 It may not be pretty, This floating metal island, but it is fast. 31 00:03:04,967 --> 00:03:09,324 Phileas Fogg found a captain Who could do the 1,400 miles to Hong Kong, 32 00:03:09,527 --> 00:03:11,802 "In six days, at most." 33 00:03:11,967 --> 00:03:14,925 Our captain promises 67 hours. 34 00:03:18,087 --> 00:03:19,645 And this is our captain. 35 00:03:19,807 --> 00:03:23,925 He's a Geordie, Norman Tuddenham, The only European in the crew, 36 00:03:24,087 --> 00:03:26,920 But he has his wife Pat for company. 37 00:03:30,967 --> 00:03:36,087 Here we are in the middle of the South China Sea with a Singaporean crew, 38 00:03:36,247 --> 00:03:40,365 But the room here seems very much Like a little bit of Britain. 39 00:03:40,527 --> 00:03:45,282 Is it very common for the wives of captains To be allowed on board? 40 00:03:45,447 --> 00:03:49,918 Years ago, it used to be Only the senior personnel was on, 41 00:03:50,087 --> 00:03:51,998 But now a lot more wives travel 42 00:03:52,167 --> 00:03:57,605 And it's good for them to know what Their husbands do and their problems. 43 00:03:57,767 --> 00:04:02,636 It's like two lives And sometimes wives can't cope with that. 44 00:04:02,807 --> 00:04:06,959 - And children, too. - How many children have you got? 45 00:04:07,127 --> 00:04:09,721 I have two, but they're grown up now. 46 00:04:15,887 --> 00:04:21,803 160 miles off the coast of Vietnam, and the Wind is hitting the ship at 50 miles an hour. 47 00:04:21,967 --> 00:04:24,845 It's typhoon season on the South China Sea. 48 00:04:25,007 --> 00:04:30,684 There's a tropical storm heading north after us And a very severe developing to the east. 49 00:04:40,247 --> 00:04:44,081 These ships are massive enough To withstand most weathers. 50 00:04:44,247 --> 00:04:46,397 They may be modern and soulless, 51 00:04:46,567 --> 00:04:53,086 But on a day like today, I'm glad Of every bit of technology we can afford. 52 00:04:53,247 --> 00:04:56,922 How do you view the fact That there seems to be a trend 53 00:04:57,087 --> 00:05:00,602 Towards much more automation On these ships now? 54 00:05:00,767 --> 00:05:04,806 In ten years, how many people Will be running a ship like this? 55 00:05:04,967 --> 00:05:08,198 I think you're looking for An educated monkey, one. 56 00:05:08,367 --> 00:05:10,403 Something like that. 57 00:05:10,567 --> 00:05:15,687 We seem to find it difficult to understand The operations of ship owners. 58 00:05:15,847 --> 00:05:19,999 Everything is commercial nowadays. The old standard has gone. 59 00:05:20,167 --> 00:05:24,877 Maybe it's good, I don't know, but it's gone. Now we're electronic experts. 60 00:05:25,047 --> 00:05:29,723 I've got a technical chief engineer And a technical chief officer. 61 00:05:29,887 --> 00:05:33,880 I have to remember whether to go Left or right or quick or fast. 62 00:05:34,047 --> 00:05:37,164 I've got to remember that money is the thing. 63 00:05:37,327 --> 00:05:40,285 That's all the ship was built for, To make cash. 64 00:05:40,447 --> 00:05:45,441 Everybody else gets involved in their work On the ship, I'm interested in money. 65 00:05:45,607 --> 00:05:48,724 It feels like being in the fast lane Of a motorway. 66 00:05:48,887 --> 00:05:52,562 You seem to pass everything else. Does anything pass you? 67 00:05:52,727 --> 00:05:56,720 Only another container ship And we try not to let that happen. 68 00:05:56,887 --> 00:06:01,324 We're so fast, basically faster Than most ships at sea, 69 00:06:01,487 --> 00:06:03,762 That stopping is our problem. 70 00:06:03,927 --> 00:06:09,877 Going to Hong Kong, I have to decide 47 miles before getting to a pilot. 71 00:06:10,047 --> 00:06:13,483 That is 37 miles to slow down To manoeuvring speed 72 00:06:13,647 --> 00:06:18,038 And then ten miles to get down to the pilot, Down to stop, or whatever. 73 00:06:20,487 --> 00:06:23,559 Hong Kong in the early hours of Day 42. 74 00:06:23,727 --> 00:06:27,879 By the skin of our teeth, we missed One of the worst storms in years, 75 00:06:28,047 --> 00:06:29,924 Typhoon Tess. 76 00:06:31,367 --> 00:06:37,476 Talking of near misses, a container blew up On the Diamond as she left Hong Kong later. 77 00:06:39,687 --> 00:06:43,475 But Capt Tuddenham Has delivered me speedily and efficiently 78 00:06:43,647 --> 00:06:47,606 To one of the most speedy And efficient ports in the world. 79 00:06:55,967 --> 00:07:01,485 Feeling anything but speedy and efficient, I unload myself at 8.00 in the morning. 80 00:07:01,647 --> 00:07:05,083 I'd expected to be met, But the weather has made me late 81 00:07:05,247 --> 00:07:08,796 And I resign myself To arriving in Hong Kong the hard way. 82 00:07:15,767 --> 00:07:19,521 But a day of surprises Is only just beginning. 83 00:07:34,327 --> 00:07:37,478 Good morning, Mr Palin, Welcome to Hong Kong. 84 00:07:37,647 --> 00:07:41,686 Sir, there is a champagne service for you, If you'd like it. 85 00:07:41,847 --> 00:07:45,556 I've been trying To write this into the script for weeks! 86 00:07:45,727 --> 00:07:48,525 - Thank you very much. - You're welcome, sir. 87 00:07:49,887 --> 00:07:54,165 Quarter to nine. Time to start on this. 88 00:07:55,207 --> 00:08:00,281 After... Ten days at sea, Your habits change a bit. 89 00:08:00,447 --> 00:08:03,644 You tend to drink earlier and earlier. 90 00:08:04,607 --> 00:08:08,043 You can take as long as you want. Oops, hey! 91 00:08:16,487 --> 00:08:22,278 As I look out, the shining, impassive faces Of wealth and power stare unblinkingly back. 92 00:08:22,447 --> 00:08:25,723 Do I really want to be back in all this? 93 00:08:25,887 --> 00:08:30,483 What the hell, for now i'll swallow A few principles and think of England! 94 00:08:34,967 --> 00:08:38,960 Mr Palin, five minutes, Arrival in the Peninsula. 95 00:08:39,687 --> 00:08:44,078 Ah, this looks more like it - Like China, I mean. 96 00:08:44,847 --> 00:08:50,240 I shouldn't sound so surprised, as Hong Kong Is and always was a Chinese city, 97 00:08:50,407 --> 00:08:53,797 Despite some plausible attempts To prove otherwise. 98 00:08:56,727 --> 00:09:01,278 The Peninsula Hotel, one of the oldest Surviving colonial buildings, 99 00:09:01,447 --> 00:09:04,200 Has offered the best for over 60 years. 100 00:09:04,367 --> 00:09:06,244 Inside, one enters a palace, 101 00:09:06,447 --> 00:09:11,157 A glittering reminder that whatever excess The rest of the world can offer, 102 00:09:11,327 --> 00:09:13,045 Hong Kong will cap it. 103 00:09:15,527 --> 00:09:17,518 Good morning. Palin. 104 00:09:17,687 --> 00:09:20,247 Welcome to the Peninsula, sir. 105 00:09:20,407 --> 00:09:23,479 - Thank you very much. - Just sign here, please. 106 00:09:23,647 --> 00:09:25,797 - Just sign here? - Yes, sir. 107 00:09:25,967 --> 00:09:28,720 Do they know i've come off a container ship? 108 00:09:28,887 --> 00:09:31,401 - Your room number will be 417. - Thanks. 109 00:09:31,567 --> 00:09:34,320 I feel like a floating piece of wreckage. 110 00:09:34,487 --> 00:09:39,117 I am afraid that one of my bags That has worked so well so far, 111 00:09:39,287 --> 00:09:42,563 The strap broke as I arrived in Hong Kong. 112 00:09:42,727 --> 00:09:45,958 - Could you get it repaired? - Sure, we'll do that. 113 00:09:48,007 --> 00:09:50,965 This is the wrong room. This looks like the bar! 114 00:09:51,127 --> 00:09:53,436 - For me? - Yes, sir. 115 00:09:53,607 --> 00:09:56,679 We wish for you To enjoy everything here, sir. 116 00:09:56,847 --> 00:10:00,920 I've had so many days at sea, This is like sensory deprivation... 117 00:10:01,087 --> 00:10:04,363 - You can enjoy it. - It's like a fix. Thank you. 118 00:10:04,527 --> 00:10:08,406 - Is the room satisfactory for you? - It looks wonderful, yes. 119 00:10:08,567 --> 00:10:11,877 Oh, it's a bed. It looks like a chorus line! 120 00:10:12,047 --> 00:10:15,323 The waiter has saved these In your room for you. 121 00:10:15,487 --> 00:10:19,241 - Champagne. - I haven't drunk any for ten minutes. 122 00:10:19,407 --> 00:10:21,637 Thanks very much. 123 00:10:24,647 --> 00:10:28,720 What to do first? I can't ring home. It's 2 a.m. 124 00:10:31,167 --> 00:10:33,397 I'll just have an orange juice. 125 00:10:37,087 --> 00:10:39,442 "Mr Michael Palin". 126 00:10:39,607 --> 00:10:42,883 Extraordinary coincidence. That's my name. 127 00:10:44,327 --> 00:10:49,082 "'Hong Kong Tatler' requests the pleasure Of the company of Mr Michael Palin 128 00:10:49,247 --> 00:10:54,958 "at a cocktail reception to celebrate the halfway Point of 'Around the World in 80 Days'." 129 00:10:56,287 --> 00:10:58,960 Oh, dear, I hoped I was anonymous. 130 00:11:02,087 --> 00:11:03,725 Black tie. 131 00:11:06,527 --> 00:11:10,281 Before I surrender myself To the temptations of the city, 132 00:11:10,447 --> 00:11:13,803 I ring and check The next onward connection to China. 133 00:11:13,967 --> 00:11:16,720 There's a ferry to Canton on Monday morning 134 00:11:16,887 --> 00:11:20,641 Which gives me time To go to this mysterious party. 135 00:11:20,807 --> 00:11:24,083 - Can you make me a suit by tomorrow? - Sure. 136 00:11:24,247 --> 00:11:27,239 - Tomorrow, four o'clock? - Four, yes. Any time. 137 00:11:27,407 --> 00:11:30,638 - i'll take your measurements. - Now? 138 00:11:30,807 --> 00:11:33,640 - Now, yes. - Wonderful. Instant tailoring. 139 00:11:33,807 --> 00:11:35,718 This is the way. 140 00:11:41,447 --> 00:11:45,281 I see you've had a few famous customers. Harold Wilson. 141 00:11:45,447 --> 00:11:48,120 Getting his suit. George Michael. 142 00:11:48,287 --> 00:11:49,845 24.5 sleeves. 143 00:11:50,007 --> 00:11:55,001 Any time George Michael and Harold Wilson Share a place... Dr Kissinger! 144 00:11:55,167 --> 00:11:58,045 I think I'm fairly stock size, aren't I? 145 00:11:58,207 --> 00:12:01,005 Derek Nimmo! Ohh, g-hosh! 146 00:12:05,127 --> 00:12:09,803 Oh, I would so frightfully like a suit. 147 00:12:09,967 --> 00:12:12,959 Why do they all come to you? 148 00:12:13,127 --> 00:12:15,766 Because I am getting good name, sir. 149 00:12:15,927 --> 00:12:18,487 Good word of mouth, that's your secret. 150 00:12:18,647 --> 00:12:21,844 Who was in yesterday? Any crowned heads of state? 151 00:12:22,007 --> 00:12:25,397 The world has been here! David Bowie. 152 00:12:32,047 --> 00:12:36,165 - You like? - I quite like a double breasted. 153 00:12:36,327 --> 00:12:38,477 Which did David Bowie have? 154 00:12:38,647 --> 00:12:41,559 - This one. - The Classic, yes. 155 00:12:41,727 --> 00:12:43,285 Two buttons. 156 00:12:44,607 --> 00:12:48,441 I'm going to be a bit different. I'll go for the Contemporary. 157 00:12:48,607 --> 00:12:52,680 - One suit. - And I need a white shirt... 158 00:12:52,847 --> 00:12:55,486 - and a bow tie. - When you need? Monday? 159 00:12:55,647 --> 00:12:58,798 No, I need it tomorrow to go with this gear. 160 00:12:58,967 --> 00:13:01,879 - OK. - I need it same time tomorrow afternoon. 161 00:13:02,047 --> 00:13:06,165 The shirt will be ready tomorrow And the suit will be fitted today. 162 00:13:06,327 --> 00:13:10,036 Right, so I write my name here. It says, "Name and rank." 163 00:13:10,207 --> 00:13:13,483 - Yes. - I don't have a rank, really. 164 00:13:13,647 --> 00:13:17,276 ...Palin, presenter third class. 165 00:13:20,927 --> 00:13:25,796 On the streets of Kowloon, I can escape The world of schedules and deadlines 166 00:13:25,967 --> 00:13:27,366 And watch local life. 167 00:13:34,967 --> 00:13:36,764 (BIRDS TWITTER) 168 00:13:36,927 --> 00:13:41,125 It's exhilarating and unfamiliar, Especially in the bird market. 169 00:13:41,287 --> 00:13:45,075 A long street offers feathered friends For all your needs - 170 00:13:45,247 --> 00:13:48,284 Singing, eating, fighting or just a chat. 171 00:13:48,447 --> 00:13:50,438 Hello! Hello! 172 00:13:50,607 --> 00:13:53,485 I've been in a sketch with you once. 173 00:13:53,647 --> 00:13:55,365 Yes, I 'ave. 174 00:13:55,527 --> 00:13:57,404 Do you know John Cleese? 175 00:13:57,567 --> 00:14:01,401 John Cleese used to Thump you up and down on a counter! 176 00:14:02,087 --> 00:14:04,317 They think I'm mad. Quite right. 177 00:14:04,487 --> 00:14:06,762 It's a cross between a zoo and a club. 178 00:14:06,927 --> 00:14:11,125 People walk their birds just to enjoy The company of other birds. 179 00:14:11,287 --> 00:14:13,926 - Is it like taking the dog for a walk? - Yes. 180 00:14:14,087 --> 00:14:17,636 - Strange people. - Are these songbirds? 181 00:14:17,807 --> 00:14:21,038 - Yes, but not now. - That's because we're on TV. 182 00:14:21,207 --> 00:14:23,767 I can hear a lot of others singing here. 183 00:14:23,927 --> 00:14:26,487 Does others singing make yours sing? 184 00:14:26,647 --> 00:14:28,683 Yes, but it's too young. 185 00:14:28,847 --> 00:14:32,044 Vocal chords have got to grow yet. 186 00:14:38,047 --> 00:14:42,279 So, the grasshoppers are food for the birds. 187 00:14:42,447 --> 00:14:46,645 The small ones just take some meat. The big ones eat the whole thing. 188 00:14:46,807 --> 00:14:49,401 - Live? Just wriggling about? - Yeah. 189 00:14:50,247 --> 00:14:53,398 Are grasshoppers a delicacy, Or just a basic food? 190 00:14:53,567 --> 00:14:55,956 - It's one of the basic foods. - Is it? 191 00:14:56,127 --> 00:14:58,402 Have you ever eaten grasshoppers? 192 00:14:58,567 --> 00:15:01,798 No. I know Thai people Like flying grasshoppers. 193 00:15:01,967 --> 00:15:03,798 Thai people like them. 194 00:15:11,447 --> 00:15:14,723 My new-found Francis of Assisi role Receives a setback 195 00:15:14,887 --> 00:15:17,685 When a cockatoo takes a fancy to my trousers. 196 00:15:17,847 --> 00:15:21,965 A friendly peck turns into A full-blooded assault on the kneecap! 197 00:15:22,127 --> 00:15:25,278 I'd hate to see what would happen If I was in shorts! 198 00:15:26,487 --> 00:15:28,682 I want the evidence to be shown! 199 00:15:28,847 --> 00:15:31,600 I've only got three pairs of trousers! 200 00:15:31,767 --> 00:15:33,564 Now they're aertex! 201 00:15:38,207 --> 00:15:42,439 Hong Kong, like New York, Is a city of constant movement. 202 00:15:42,607 --> 00:15:46,600 On the water, sampans, barges And cruise liners fight for space 203 00:15:46,767 --> 00:15:51,363 With the Star Ferries connecting Hong Kong island with the mainland. 204 00:15:52,727 --> 00:15:57,562 On land, old Glaswegian trams, A derided form of transport in Britain, 205 00:15:57,727 --> 00:15:59,479 Enjoy a heady retirement. 206 00:15:59,647 --> 00:16:03,083 The only way, I think, to visit one's tailor. 207 00:16:05,367 --> 00:16:08,439 I was... I'm having a double-breasted? 208 00:16:08,607 --> 00:16:11,758 - Yes, but this is basic fitting. - Oh, I see. 209 00:16:12,807 --> 00:16:15,367 Am I Henry Kissinger's shape? 210 00:16:15,527 --> 00:16:18,519 - I think he's more bigger. - He's a bigger man. 211 00:16:18,687 --> 00:16:21,326 Whereabouts? Frontal area. 212 00:16:21,487 --> 00:16:24,047 - How's the shoulders? - That's fine. 213 00:16:24,207 --> 00:16:26,675 - Sleeves? - That feels OK. 214 00:16:26,847 --> 00:16:29,042 Seems OK to you? 215 00:16:29,207 --> 00:16:32,961 I like a looser one. I like a little bit more room. 216 00:16:33,127 --> 00:16:36,961 It's a long way to come for a suit, But I like Hong Kong, 217 00:16:37,127 --> 00:16:39,277 So I could get all my clothes here. 218 00:16:39,447 --> 00:16:42,041 - This is... - You are happy? 219 00:16:42,207 --> 00:16:47,042 I think so. It's difficult to tell. If you Can make it a bit looser, it's fine. 220 00:16:53,207 --> 00:16:57,280 After such a hectic day, I think I might Spend a quiet evening in. 221 00:16:57,447 --> 00:17:00,120 But it does seem a waste of Hong Kong, 222 00:17:00,287 --> 00:17:05,315 Where an enormous amount of electricity Goes into luring out the night-time punters. 223 00:17:07,367 --> 00:17:11,440 Happy Valley racecourse, One of the colony's legends. 224 00:17:11,607 --> 00:17:16,886 Bang in the middle of the city, It's a spectacular setting and a success. 225 00:17:18,487 --> 00:17:23,845 Hi, Chris. Chris Collings, you're the racing Correspondent in the local paper. 226 00:17:24,007 --> 00:17:26,475 Explain this phenomenon to me. 227 00:17:26,647 --> 00:17:31,562 It looks the most prosperous racetrack In the world. Is there money in racing? 228 00:17:31,727 --> 00:17:37,882 Certainly is. It is the only game in town As far as the local people are concerned. 229 00:17:38,047 --> 00:17:42,279 The turnover last season Was about 28.8 billion Hong Kong dollars. 230 00:17:42,447 --> 00:17:45,598 (CHRIS) The Jockey Club is non-profit making. 231 00:17:45,767 --> 00:17:49,555 The money goes into a charity. They build hospitals, parks. 232 00:17:49,727 --> 00:17:52,400 They do a lot of good for the community. 233 00:17:52,567 --> 00:17:57,322 This is the first twilight meeting This season - afternoon start. 234 00:17:57,487 --> 00:18:00,206 There will be 30,000-40,000 people here. 235 00:18:00,367 --> 00:18:03,598 There's no live telecast today So everyone's here. 236 00:18:03,767 --> 00:18:06,122 Why is horse racing so popular? 237 00:18:06,287 --> 00:18:10,280 They have a history of gambling. The Chinese like to bet. 238 00:18:10,447 --> 00:18:14,565 Go to casinos in Macao And there are people there 24 hours a day. 239 00:18:14,727 --> 00:18:17,287 They've just got a love for horse racing. 240 00:18:17,447 --> 00:18:21,759 Have you got a tip for the? Maybe the 6.30 would be best. 241 00:18:21,927 --> 00:18:25,363 I've no idea at all. Something that will make me money. 242 00:18:25,527 --> 00:18:28,166 Hopefully, Super Gear will be all right. 243 00:18:28,327 --> 00:18:30,682 Super Gear, right. 244 00:18:30,847 --> 00:18:33,520 So, number eight, Super Gear. 245 00:18:33,687 --> 00:18:35,518 Here we go. 246 00:18:37,167 --> 00:18:42,719 Hello, I'd like $100 to win On number eight, Race Six. 247 00:18:43,447 --> 00:18:45,836 And I'm going to also try... 248 00:18:46,607 --> 00:18:48,165 Yup. 249 00:18:48,327 --> 00:18:51,763 And... I'm losing money here, you know. 250 00:18:51,927 --> 00:18:57,399 And i'll try $100 to win on number five, Fantastic Season. 251 00:18:57,567 --> 00:18:59,683 200... Yes, there you are. 252 00:18:59,847 --> 00:19:01,599 Thank you. 253 00:19:01,767 --> 00:19:05,646 Not funny. It's a serious business for me, Losing money. 254 00:19:09,727 --> 00:19:14,960 The Sport of Kings transferred lock, Stock and barrel to the Orient. 255 00:19:15,127 --> 00:19:19,917 It's no longer the British, but Australians, New Zealanders and the Chinese 256 00:19:20,087 --> 00:19:23,716 Who produce the bulk of the owners, Trainers and horses. 257 00:19:25,367 --> 00:19:31,397 This confident atmosphere was captured Months before the student uprising in China. 258 00:19:31,567 --> 00:19:35,082 Happy Valley may never be As happy as this again. 259 00:19:35,247 --> 00:19:40,037 (C0MMENTARY) In the stalls, They're ready and racing... 260 00:19:59,327 --> 00:20:03,036 Super Gear is in fourth position, tucked in. 261 00:20:03,207 --> 00:20:05,596 Where is number five? 262 00:20:13,767 --> 00:20:17,316 Come on! Come on! Still in fourth! 263 00:20:20,967 --> 00:20:23,276 Eight has gone up to second! 264 00:20:28,207 --> 00:20:30,926 That's Super Gear! He's going to win! 265 00:20:36,047 --> 00:20:38,242 He's going to win! Ha ha! 266 00:20:41,087 --> 00:20:45,399 At one fell swoop, i've won More than on the last 12 Grand Nationals! 267 00:20:45,567 --> 00:20:48,206 - Is an error. - There's an error? Oh, dear. 268 00:20:52,047 --> 00:20:53,639 Tension. 269 00:20:58,487 --> 00:21:02,560 Seven hundred? Wow! Thank you very much. 270 00:21:02,727 --> 00:21:07,084 £57 sterling! Hong Kong, here I come! 271 00:21:07,247 --> 00:21:10,922 And it's too dark for Passepartout To follow me! 272 00:21:16,687 --> 00:21:19,565 Sunday morning, seven weeks out of London, 273 00:21:19,727 --> 00:21:23,276 And I'm taking a day trip To the island of Cheung Chow. 274 00:21:23,447 --> 00:21:26,245 It's been called the Hong Kong Riviera 275 00:21:26,407 --> 00:21:31,083 And it does have a seductive mixture Of the Orient and the Mediterranean. 276 00:21:45,247 --> 00:21:48,956 It's also home to a friend of mine, Basil Pao, 277 00:21:49,127 --> 00:21:53,723 An artist, designer, photographer And complete renaissance Chinaman. 278 00:21:53,887 --> 00:21:58,802 For BBC expenses, I am hoping to lure him To Shanghai with me 279 00:21:58,967 --> 00:22:01,720 As interpreter and travelling companion. 280 00:22:01,887 --> 00:22:04,606 We have come to spoil your Sunday. 281 00:22:04,767 --> 00:22:07,327 All right. Who are these people? 282 00:22:07,487 --> 00:22:11,036 - This is Passepartout. - Oh, they're with you, are they? 283 00:22:11,207 --> 00:22:16,156 They're with me, unfortunately, but if we Walk, we may lose them in the crowd. 284 00:22:16,327 --> 00:22:18,318 It's great to see you! 285 00:22:21,127 --> 00:22:25,359 - Hello, darling, I'm home! - Honey, I'm home... With 40 people! 286 00:22:25,527 --> 00:22:29,839 Besides seeing Basil and Pat again, There is another celebration. 287 00:22:30,007 --> 00:22:36,162 I am about to meet their first child, Sonia, Who is exactly as old as my journey. 288 00:22:36,327 --> 00:22:39,603 Oh, dear. Hello, darling! 289 00:22:40,367 --> 00:22:42,198 Shall I take her? 290 00:22:42,367 --> 00:22:45,245 See how Basil handles... Very good. 291 00:22:45,407 --> 00:22:48,160 She has lots of hair. 292 00:22:48,327 --> 00:22:53,845 Now, don't tell me. 43 days old. That's great. 293 00:22:54,007 --> 00:22:58,159 - Good thing she's got Mum's eyes. - i'll bore you in years to come. 294 00:22:58,327 --> 00:23:00,795 Michael, a glass of champagne? 295 00:23:00,967 --> 00:23:05,438 A glass of champagne? Twist my arm. If you insist. 296 00:23:05,607 --> 00:23:08,679 - Right, i'll... - Want me to? 297 00:23:10,287 --> 00:23:15,042 So, she was born on September 25th, What time? 298 00:23:15,207 --> 00:23:20,440 Around 5.30 Hong Kong time, So there's seven hours difference. 299 00:23:20,607 --> 00:23:24,998 Seven hours behind would be... About the time our train left 300 00:23:25,167 --> 00:23:27,362 Victoria Station. 301 00:23:27,527 --> 00:23:30,121 Can I take you back, please, as a present? 302 00:23:30,287 --> 00:23:31,925 As a present! 303 00:23:33,407 --> 00:23:37,764 - Hello, Sonia. - He's an old softie, your Uncle Michael. 304 00:23:37,927 --> 00:23:41,283 Here we go. To you both and to Sonia. 305 00:23:41,447 --> 00:23:42,926 Welcome to our home. 306 00:23:43,087 --> 00:23:46,602 And to anyone else Who has been on the road 43 days! 307 00:23:49,407 --> 00:23:53,036 You don't mind me taking Basil away to China For a few days? 308 00:23:53,207 --> 00:23:56,802 I think he would be very... He'd be very useful. 309 00:23:56,967 --> 00:23:58,958 How are you with the language? 310 00:23:59,127 --> 00:24:01,436 The only problem would be dialects. 311 00:24:01,607 --> 00:24:04,326 As you go through, dialects will change. 312 00:24:04,487 --> 00:24:08,639 They will speak in the same language, But different slang, 313 00:24:08,807 --> 00:24:15,758 To the point where my mother and my father Lived maybe 30 kilometres from each other, 314 00:24:15,927 --> 00:24:17,918 Their ancestral villages, 315 00:24:18,087 --> 00:24:23,445 And they can't understand a single word If they speak their local dialect. 316 00:24:23,607 --> 00:24:28,123 - What about road signs, station signs? - The written is the same. 317 00:24:28,287 --> 00:24:30,642 The written has always been the same. 318 00:24:30,807 --> 00:24:35,722 The thing with the dialects Is that most of it cannot be written. 319 00:24:35,887 --> 00:24:38,799 Cantonese, Which you hear everywhere here, 320 00:24:38,967 --> 00:24:41,197 Most of it you can't write. 321 00:24:44,407 --> 00:24:47,558 After this brief reminder Of things back home, 322 00:24:47,727 --> 00:24:50,241 Like family life and lazy Sundays, 323 00:24:50,407 --> 00:24:52,159 It's back into Hong Kong. 324 00:24:52,327 --> 00:24:55,637 Somewhere in those canyons, A suit is waiting for me! 325 00:24:55,807 --> 00:24:59,277 (MAN) Christian is giving the party. 326 00:24:59,447 --> 00:25:01,358 Thank you very much. 327 00:25:02,527 --> 00:25:07,362 And this is my wife, Liz Hodgson, Who is Associate Editor of the "Tatler". 328 00:25:07,527 --> 00:25:10,280 - Ah, got the plug in then? - Yes! 329 00:25:13,167 --> 00:25:17,206 The guests are mostly foreigners Who have done well in Hong Kong. 330 00:25:17,367 --> 00:25:22,316 The club is named after their second Favourite topic of conversation - 1997. 331 00:25:22,487 --> 00:25:26,844 China has always used Hong Kong For foreign exchange. 332 00:25:27,007 --> 00:25:29,202 I spend about one hour travelling. 333 00:25:29,367 --> 00:25:31,562 Their favourite topic is money. 334 00:25:31,727 --> 00:25:34,161 Everyone here is obsessed by money. 335 00:25:34,327 --> 00:25:40,084 People do work hard. Put them together And if you can pay for it, you can get it. 336 00:25:40,247 --> 00:25:43,842 He was paying About 6,000 Hong Kong a month. 337 00:25:44,007 --> 00:25:48,558 No, I can bargain for 2 million... 2.5 million. 338 00:25:48,727 --> 00:25:51,036 - 2.5. - At 2.5, it's worthwhile. 339 00:25:51,207 --> 00:25:55,041 Is China the Golden Apple That everyone wants to get at? 340 00:25:55,207 --> 00:25:56,845 Is there much money there? 341 00:25:57,007 --> 00:25:59,885 No money at all. There is not a lot to be made. 342 00:26:00,047 --> 00:26:02,561 Yes, it is really ridiculous. 343 00:26:02,727 --> 00:26:04,922 (THEY SPEAK IN A CHINESE DIALECT) 344 00:26:05,647 --> 00:26:10,960 It is pretty clear that Hong Kong's future Lies with the business community. 345 00:26:11,127 --> 00:26:15,325 If they stay on after '97, Then things won't change much. 346 00:26:15,487 --> 00:26:17,955 But if they decide to go... 347 00:26:18,647 --> 00:26:20,558 I was a bit wrecked! 348 00:26:20,727 --> 00:26:25,005 It was a very fast boat. It did 24 knots, Or almost 30 miles an hour, 349 00:26:25,167 --> 00:26:29,922 And the captain was very cool. He was British. 350 00:26:30,087 --> 00:26:34,638 He said, "Oh, there's a storm Coming in from the east. This is severe. 351 00:26:34,807 --> 00:26:39,483 "Severe tropical storm, could be a typhoon. And a small one from the west." 352 00:26:39,647 --> 00:26:45,836 I think if we'd left 12 hours later from Singapore, I probably would have died. 353 00:26:46,007 --> 00:26:47,963 So, when are you leaving? 354 00:26:48,127 --> 00:26:50,277 We leave tomorrow morning. 355 00:26:55,647 --> 00:26:58,559 The catamaran for Canton pulls in at 8.00. 356 00:26:58,727 --> 00:27:04,882 It isn't the fashionable way to leave Hong Kong, but it's a great introduction to China. 357 00:27:12,727 --> 00:27:14,683 China, here we come! 358 00:27:22,647 --> 00:27:25,081 I'm very badly prepared for China. 359 00:27:25,247 --> 00:27:29,604 I know nothing about it, but I think It's too late to start reading now! 360 00:27:29,767 --> 00:27:33,203 It's impossible to prepare for it. It'll surprise you. 361 00:27:33,367 --> 00:27:37,440 You know how in some countries It's rude to cross your legs, 362 00:27:37,607 --> 00:27:40,963 Is there anything in China One should avoid doing? 363 00:27:41,127 --> 00:27:45,279 No, they've been around too long, They do anything now. 364 00:27:45,447 --> 00:27:49,645 This Chinese-operated ferry Was built in Norway two years ago. 365 00:27:49,807 --> 00:27:53,482 It's capable of a brisk 30 knots, But it has to keep slowing 366 00:27:53,647 --> 00:27:57,799 For all manner of vessels Coming at us down the Pearl River. 367 00:28:06,287 --> 00:28:08,960 One of the recurring delights of travel 368 00:28:09,127 --> 00:28:12,722 Is that countries a few miles apart Can look so different. 369 00:28:12,887 --> 00:28:16,516 Hong Kong seems glamorous Beside its prospective owner, 370 00:28:16,687 --> 00:28:20,441 Like a well-dowried bride About to marry beneath her. 371 00:28:22,807 --> 00:28:25,560 China is still in another era. 372 00:28:39,167 --> 00:28:43,399 Three hours after leaving Hong Kong, We are walking out into China, 373 00:28:43,567 --> 00:28:46,923 At Canton, now called Guangzhou. 374 00:28:47,087 --> 00:28:50,124 I have the feeling Of entering this vast country 375 00:28:50,287 --> 00:28:53,359 Through one of the smallest Of its back doors. 376 00:28:53,527 --> 00:28:57,315 - Chinese soil. - They'll probably give you hassle here. 377 00:28:57,487 --> 00:28:59,478 Oh, dear. I'll need my passport. 378 00:28:59,647 --> 00:29:02,684 I don't think i've done anything To worry about. 379 00:29:02,847 --> 00:29:05,998 I'm not a member Of any proscribed organisations. 380 00:29:06,167 --> 00:29:09,364 I did declare diarrhoea on my health form. 381 00:29:10,607 --> 00:29:14,885 The homely terminal is one of the bonuses Of not travelling by air. 382 00:29:15,047 --> 00:29:17,356 The uniforms are Ruritanian, 383 00:29:17,527 --> 00:29:19,597 The fittings Dickensian. 384 00:29:24,127 --> 00:29:29,884 As one would expect in a country of over A billion people, there are no staff shortages. 385 00:29:30,047 --> 00:29:32,800 We are dealt with briskly and efficiently 386 00:29:32,967 --> 00:29:37,597 And this is the first port of entry Where we've been allowed to film! 387 00:29:41,247 --> 00:29:46,719 We are let into the People's Republic In 40 minutes flat, another world record! 388 00:29:52,727 --> 00:29:55,958 Our hotel, the White Swan, Isn't easy to miss. 389 00:29:56,127 --> 00:30:01,042 It's the real thing, a real replica Of a western luxury hotel, 390 00:30:01,207 --> 00:30:04,483 Complete with bellhops, A roof-top golf range 391 00:30:04,647 --> 00:30:07,081 And a cold running waterfall. 392 00:30:15,767 --> 00:30:19,806 My 16th-floor window looks out Over the wooded island of Shamian, 393 00:30:19,967 --> 00:30:23,357 On which foreign traders Were confined 200 years ago. 394 00:30:23,527 --> 00:30:27,998 Nowadays, one can go anywhere, Provided they know where you are. 395 00:30:30,207 --> 00:30:33,517 The constant movement of people Reminds me of India. 396 00:30:33,687 --> 00:30:37,566 The Chinese move purposefully, Intent on getting somewhere. 397 00:30:37,727 --> 00:30:42,847 There isn't much of the drifting Curiousness of Indian street life. 398 00:30:43,527 --> 00:30:48,521 And there isn't a quieter rush hour Anywhere, but for how long? 399 00:30:48,687 --> 00:30:54,159 Just imagine the difference on the day These people trade their cycles in for Toyotas. 400 00:31:09,767 --> 00:31:11,917 This may look like a day at the zoo, 401 00:31:12,087 --> 00:31:15,841 But it's a night at one of Canton's Most famous restaurants. 402 00:31:16,007 --> 00:31:18,475 There's really only one ingredient. 403 00:31:18,647 --> 00:31:21,400 I don't understand a word of it! 404 00:31:22,967 --> 00:31:26,243 There's a large variety here. "Fried Snake... 405 00:31:26,407 --> 00:31:30,082 - "Stewed, three different..." - Three different snakes? 406 00:31:30,247 --> 00:31:32,841 - Yeah. - We don't want three. 407 00:31:33,007 --> 00:31:38,365 "Deep fried snake, Snake skin with mushrooms..." 408 00:31:38,527 --> 00:31:42,884 - You can have slices, or shreds... - It's all the same, really. 409 00:31:43,047 --> 00:31:46,084 All the way through, it's all the same. 410 00:31:46,247 --> 00:31:48,602 Which is the best? Let's lash out. 411 00:31:48,767 --> 00:31:54,922 I don't want people to say, "You had snake? Did you have the head? Oh, blimey!" 412 00:31:55,087 --> 00:31:58,716 I think we should have some soup And then stir fried. 413 00:31:58,887 --> 00:32:01,845 - OK. - Just a taster. 414 00:32:02,007 --> 00:32:04,396 And maybe snake balls? 415 00:32:04,567 --> 00:32:06,319 I mean... Minced... 416 00:32:06,487 --> 00:32:10,162 I'll give it a try! If they can find 'em, I'll eat 'em! 417 00:32:16,207 --> 00:32:20,041 What is special is that Many of these snakes are venomous. 418 00:32:20,207 --> 00:32:24,962 This, I'm told, adds to the flavour, If not the life expectancy of the chefs. 419 00:32:27,967 --> 00:32:31,039 Gourmet parties come here From across the border, 420 00:32:31,207 --> 00:32:34,677 For good snake Is one thing Hong Kong doesn't have. 421 00:32:34,847 --> 00:32:39,079 - Is everybody here eating snake? - I think so. 422 00:32:44,687 --> 00:32:49,966 Ah, here comes our food. From the way it's moving, it looks underdone. 423 00:32:58,487 --> 00:33:00,478 Which one do you fancy, Mike? 424 00:33:00,647 --> 00:33:04,322 None of them at all, Basil, at the moment. 425 00:33:04,487 --> 00:33:06,637 (SNAKE HISSES) 426 00:33:07,767 --> 00:33:12,238 What do we choose them on? Stripes? Nice design? 427 00:33:12,407 --> 00:33:16,844 I don't really like seeing what I eat first. I've always been like that. 428 00:33:17,007 --> 00:33:21,797 Having cows brought in the restaurant, Little lambs... I'd rather not. 429 00:33:21,967 --> 00:33:25,357 - Shall we say any one? - They look the same to me. 430 00:33:28,607 --> 00:33:30,404 What are we having? 431 00:33:30,567 --> 00:33:33,127 - One each? - One long one. 432 00:33:33,287 --> 00:33:35,403 I couldn't eat a whole snake! 433 00:33:36,087 --> 00:33:38,078 What is he doing now? 434 00:33:39,007 --> 00:33:41,885 He is taking out the gall bladder. 435 00:33:42,047 --> 00:33:46,165 That's the gall bladder? And is that nasty or nice? 436 00:33:46,327 --> 00:33:48,921 It is supposed to be a delicacy. 437 00:33:49,087 --> 00:33:51,043 He's going to kill it now. 438 00:33:51,207 --> 00:33:54,404 He's disembowelled it and now he'll kill it! 439 00:33:54,567 --> 00:33:58,242 It's like the Middle Ages. They used to do this to bishops! 440 00:34:01,087 --> 00:34:04,204 It's like going to an abattoir to get a meal. 441 00:34:04,367 --> 00:34:08,360 Yes. I suppose If you have been around for 4,000 years, 442 00:34:08,527 --> 00:34:11,564 There aren't too many things You haven't done. 443 00:34:11,727 --> 00:34:13,479 That snake... 444 00:34:17,207 --> 00:34:19,801 The head is still wriggling about! 445 00:34:19,967 --> 00:34:23,198 - Oh, that's quite... - Nasty, isn't it, Michael? 446 00:34:23,367 --> 00:34:25,642 It's a little bit unpleasant. 447 00:34:27,767 --> 00:34:32,443 - He's doing it skilfully, I must say. - It's a first for me, too. 448 00:34:32,607 --> 00:34:37,522 If that had been a lamb, or he'd taken The top off a squirrel or a budgie, 449 00:34:37,687 --> 00:34:39,643 People would be... 450 00:34:42,007 --> 00:34:44,521 Just some ice cream for me, please. 451 00:34:44,687 --> 00:34:49,442 Ten minutes later, it all looks so different. 452 00:34:51,647 --> 00:34:54,844 There it is! This is the shredded... 453 00:34:55,927 --> 00:34:59,397 - This is the shredded braised... - Shredded cobra? 454 00:34:59,567 --> 00:35:03,480 - Cobra! - Shredded cobra. This is a first! 455 00:35:03,647 --> 00:35:07,765 Double first. First day in China And first time eating snake. 456 00:35:07,927 --> 00:35:12,125 Ah, this is the braised snake's belly 457 00:35:12,287 --> 00:35:13,845 With mushrooms. 458 00:35:14,007 --> 00:35:17,238 That looks too like what I saw on the floor. 459 00:35:17,407 --> 00:35:18,999 I'll try this. 460 00:35:19,167 --> 00:35:20,839 I hope it doesn't bite. 461 00:35:21,007 --> 00:35:23,805 Actually, we can't get this in Hong Kong. 462 00:35:23,967 --> 00:35:27,039 We can't get Most of these dishes in Hong Kong. 463 00:35:28,407 --> 00:35:31,001 Why can't you get this in Hong Kong? 464 00:35:31,167 --> 00:35:34,477 There really isn't one restaurant... 465 00:35:34,647 --> 00:35:37,115 I suppose, in part because of supply. 466 00:35:37,287 --> 00:35:42,566 Here, you know, They come from the provinces next door. 467 00:35:42,727 --> 00:35:47,642 Poisonous snakes From the mountains and hills, etc. 468 00:35:47,807 --> 00:35:54,280 The buyers go out there and get them From the villagers who catch them. 469 00:35:54,447 --> 00:35:57,723 - They catch... - They catch wild snakes? 470 00:35:57,887 --> 00:35:59,878 - Yes. - So these are free range? 471 00:36:00,047 --> 00:36:04,882 The free range ones taste better. I guess they've had more exercise. 472 00:36:06,567 --> 00:36:08,080 Great. Lovely. 473 00:36:12,367 --> 00:36:15,916 Next morning, We take the early express to Shanghai. 474 00:36:16,687 --> 00:36:19,440 It's an overnight journey of 1,100 miles. 475 00:36:19,607 --> 00:36:25,079 Recently, a train on this route Was delayed 40 hours by a landslide! 476 00:36:25,247 --> 00:36:30,275 If this happens again, I miss my boat Connections in Shanghai and Tokyo, 477 00:36:30,447 --> 00:36:33,439 But Basil and I leave full of hope. 478 00:36:50,687 --> 00:36:54,236 There are class divisions Even on Chinese trains. 479 00:36:54,407 --> 00:36:59,037 We are in "soft class", Reserved for top party officials, 480 00:36:59,207 --> 00:37:01,482 Generals and successful businessmen. 481 00:37:01,647 --> 00:37:05,401 - Want the bottom or top? - I just want to sit for a moment. 482 00:37:05,567 --> 00:37:08,525 - Right. - But i'll go up on the top. 483 00:37:08,687 --> 00:37:14,125 The majority of the passengers face A 35-hour journey on wooden benches, 484 00:37:14,287 --> 00:37:19,122 Whilst us softies enjoy good food And faintly Edwardian luxury. 485 00:37:19,287 --> 00:37:22,996 Very nice, yes. I see you are going on a journey! 486 00:37:23,167 --> 00:37:26,796 Not very far And you will be extremely uncomfortable. 487 00:37:37,927 --> 00:37:40,725 (SPEAKS IN MANDARIN) 488 00:37:43,887 --> 00:37:46,685 (CHINESE ORCHESTRAL MUSIC) 489 00:38:05,047 --> 00:38:07,959 This is yet another class - intermediate. 490 00:38:08,127 --> 00:38:13,247 They look like seasoned travellers, Settling neatly into very little space. 491 00:38:13,407 --> 00:38:16,240 They all seem to have things to do. 492 00:38:16,407 --> 00:38:19,604 This is friendly class, this is. 493 00:38:19,767 --> 00:38:24,887 One lady wanted to practise the English She'd learnt from the BBC World Service. 494 00:38:25,047 --> 00:38:28,801 - Where do you live? - I live in Shanghai. 495 00:38:28,967 --> 00:38:34,883 The people who are travelling in this car, Will they all be going to Shanghai? 496 00:38:35,047 --> 00:38:38,198 - Yes. - Where are you going? Back home? 497 00:38:38,407 --> 00:38:44,801 I will first go back home. I am staying In Shanghai and living in Shanghai. 498 00:38:44,967 --> 00:38:49,722 - Then I will... With my sister... - This is your sister? Hello. 499 00:38:49,887 --> 00:38:55,200 Next year, I will leave Shanghai To study in Australia. 500 00:38:55,367 --> 00:38:59,201 - Australia? - Yes, the Sydney College of English. 501 00:38:59,367 --> 00:39:01,642 - You are going to Australia? - Yes. 502 00:39:14,327 --> 00:39:19,845 There we are! There is A railway employee about every 250 yards, 503 00:39:20,007 --> 00:39:22,362 Standing to attention with his flag. 504 00:39:22,527 --> 00:39:25,883 One thing they're not short of - people. 505 00:39:28,447 --> 00:39:34,283 Public works is obviously still a big thing here. Building roads, new railways. 506 00:39:35,487 --> 00:39:38,718 Well, construction is big. 507 00:39:38,887 --> 00:39:40,525 Very big now. 508 00:39:49,567 --> 00:39:53,526 Later in the day, as we pull Into the station at Zhen-Zhou, 509 00:39:53,687 --> 00:39:58,636 An unexpected opportunity arises To collect another of my proofs of travel. 510 00:39:59,967 --> 00:40:02,606 In this case, Terry Gilliam's roof tile. 511 00:40:03,727 --> 00:40:05,763 They've got some roof tiles. 512 00:40:11,087 --> 00:40:16,161 The way to the roof is blocked by an object Which makes it even more of an adventure. 513 00:40:16,327 --> 00:40:19,797 This is China, Where they still build steam engines. 514 00:40:25,527 --> 00:40:28,963 I have to take a Chinese roof tile Back to Terry Gilliam. 515 00:40:29,127 --> 00:40:33,200 I can kill two birds with one stone. Look, above the steam engine. 516 00:40:39,167 --> 00:40:42,000 I can get in the steam engine And get the tile. 517 00:40:44,767 --> 00:40:48,282 Magnificent! And one Chinese roof tile! 518 00:40:56,487 --> 00:41:00,685 I feel like Richard Leakey with the skull Of the first Homo erectus. 519 00:41:00,847 --> 00:41:04,203 As befits a station tile, It is absolutely filthy, 520 00:41:04,367 --> 00:41:07,598 But cleaned, I can wrap it safely in my laundry. 521 00:41:15,807 --> 00:41:21,040 The galley, meanwhile, is preparing one Of the best meals i've ever had on a train. 522 00:41:27,967 --> 00:41:32,722 There are five chefs for one coach, But if this is what they produce, 523 00:41:32,887 --> 00:41:36,641 It's one of the strongest arguments Against labour saving! 524 00:41:36,807 --> 00:41:38,525 The menu is adventurous. 525 00:41:38,687 --> 00:41:42,600 Though snake is off, They do have crispy duck's gizzards. 526 00:41:43,127 --> 00:41:46,005 He said I could bring back A Chinese roof tile. 527 00:41:46,167 --> 00:41:49,477 He also said I could bring back Two types of cholera. 528 00:41:49,647 --> 00:41:51,603 I thought I'd give that a miss. 529 00:41:51,767 --> 00:41:54,600 I said, "If I do, you're the first i'll kiss." 530 00:41:54,767 --> 00:41:59,124 Many of my fellow diners Are Chinese from Taiwan. 531 00:41:59,287 --> 00:42:02,643 This year, the Taiwanese Have been allowed back in 532 00:42:02,807 --> 00:42:06,766 For the first time since they fled From Communism in 1949. 533 00:42:06,927 --> 00:42:09,680 They have evidently prospered. 534 00:42:11,447 --> 00:42:14,041 It's a staff canteen, as well, mind you. 535 00:42:14,207 --> 00:42:16,801 Most passengers can't afford it. 536 00:42:16,967 --> 00:42:21,677 They eat from polystyrene lunch boxes Which end up strewn over the line. 537 00:42:57,447 --> 00:43:01,599 As dusk gives way To a spectacular South Chinese sunset, 538 00:43:01,767 --> 00:43:04,998 I get talking to another Occupant of the soft class. 539 00:43:05,167 --> 00:43:08,284 She seemed the nearest thing To a Chinese yuppie. 540 00:43:08,447 --> 00:43:12,235 - Where do you live? - I come from Shanghai, of course. 541 00:43:12,407 --> 00:43:15,638 And where have you just been on the train? 542 00:43:15,807 --> 00:43:20,756 Oh, we just went to the Canton Fair, The 64th Canton Fair. 543 00:43:20,927 --> 00:43:25,239 And it closed down on November 5th, 544 00:43:25,407 --> 00:43:29,719 So we are... We are coming back to Shanghai. 545 00:43:29,887 --> 00:43:33,926 - Why were you at the fair? - Oh, just doing some business. 546 00:43:34,087 --> 00:43:36,885 - Do some business. - Buying or selling? 547 00:43:37,047 --> 00:43:39,925 - Selling. - You are obviously busy. 548 00:43:40,087 --> 00:43:41,759 Yeah, very busy. 549 00:43:41,927 --> 00:43:45,886 Do you have a boyfriend Or a regular man friend? 550 00:43:46,047 --> 00:43:47,366 Yes. 551 00:43:47,527 --> 00:43:50,439 Good. Do you expect to get married soon? 552 00:43:51,647 --> 00:43:53,239 I don't know. 553 00:43:54,127 --> 00:43:56,846 Would you like to be married soon? 554 00:43:57,007 --> 00:44:01,558 Not very soon, Because I have my own career to pursue. 555 00:44:01,727 --> 00:44:08,485 I want to do some... Unusual things before I get married. 556 00:44:08,647 --> 00:44:13,596 If there was only one question you wanted To ask someone coming from Britain, 557 00:44:13,767 --> 00:44:15,325 What would you ask me? 558 00:44:15,487 --> 00:44:17,603 Yeah, only one question? 559 00:44:18,487 --> 00:44:21,843 Do you carry an umbrella with you every day? 560 00:44:23,047 --> 00:44:25,720 - Is that true or not? - No. 561 00:44:25,887 --> 00:44:30,517 If I set out with an umbrella, I'd lose it within a day! 562 00:44:30,687 --> 00:44:33,360 No, I don't. I just get wet. 563 00:44:33,527 --> 00:44:36,360 Ah, just get wet! OK. 564 00:44:57,727 --> 00:45:02,926 You inscrutable Chinese. You're all the same, aren't you? 565 00:45:03,087 --> 00:45:07,000 Yes. I am getting the swing of this. 566 00:45:09,527 --> 00:45:11,199 What do you think of that, eh? 567 00:45:16,047 --> 00:45:19,722 The morning after the night before In Jianxi Province 568 00:45:19,887 --> 00:45:22,117 And the first cold day of my journey. 569 00:45:22,287 --> 00:45:26,280 Eight days ago, I was in Singapore, Almost on the equator. 570 00:45:26,447 --> 00:45:28,597 Now I'm 2,000 miles further north 571 00:45:28,767 --> 00:45:33,477 And in a four-season climate For the first time since crossing the Alps. 572 00:45:46,287 --> 00:45:49,677 There is a small army Of 50 staff on this train. 573 00:45:49,847 --> 00:45:51,439 I'm not sure what they do. 574 00:45:51,607 --> 00:45:56,397 Yesterday, I saw one energetically Sloshing a mop up and down our corridor. 575 00:45:56,567 --> 00:45:59,559 Didn't seem to do the carpet any good at all! 576 00:46:30,487 --> 00:46:33,206 The light outside is becoming softer. 577 00:46:33,367 --> 00:46:35,642 The countryside is golden brown. 578 00:46:35,807 --> 00:46:39,004 After six weeks in the tropics, it's a shock. 579 00:46:39,167 --> 00:46:43,080 I never expected The Chinese landscape to look familiar. 580 00:46:53,487 --> 00:46:55,842 (SPEAKS IN MANDARIN) 581 00:46:57,847 --> 00:47:01,556 The on-train DJ announces request time. 582 00:47:01,727 --> 00:47:06,118 Armed with Billy Joel and a Mozart flute Concerto, I go to try my luck. 583 00:47:06,287 --> 00:47:11,600 She hadn't heard of Mozart, but at least The lyrics aren't ideologically unsound. 584 00:47:11,767 --> 00:47:15,043 It's much better Than listening to it on cassette. 585 00:47:15,207 --> 00:47:18,916 Will this go all the way? Will everyone on the train hear it? 586 00:47:19,087 --> 00:47:21,806 - Yes. - An audience of hundreds. 587 00:47:28,727 --> 00:47:31,560 (M0ZARTFLUTE C0NCERT0) 588 00:47:49,687 --> 00:47:53,362 To my considerable surprise, I have crossed China on time. 589 00:47:53,527 --> 00:47:56,644 For once, I allow myself To be quietly confident. 590 00:48:08,167 --> 00:48:12,604 We have still to reach Shanghai, of course, And find the boat to Japan, 591 00:48:12,767 --> 00:48:16,237 And I'm not even halfway round the world yet, 592 00:48:16,407 --> 00:48:20,082 But it looks like it's going to be A nice day tomorrow.