1
00:00:03,600 --> 00:00:06,080
I've been travelling the world
for the past 25 years.


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I've met so many people
in so many countries


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that everyone thinks of me as the
man who's been everywhere.


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But in all these years, there's
been one big gap in my passport.


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Nothing less than the fifth
largest country on Earth.


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A country blessed with
a melting pot of peoples


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and an abundance of resources.


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A country that's risen
almost out of nowhere


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to become a 21st century superpower.


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It's the host of the next World Cup
and the next Olympic Games.


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It's a country whose time has come.


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How can I say I've seen the world
when I haven't seen Brazil?


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OK, waterfall, we defy you!


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We defy you!


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Pedro Alvares Cabral,
the Portuguese sea captain,


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reputed to be the first European
ever to set foot in Brazil


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did so completely by accident,


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when he was blown off course
in April 1500


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while trying to round Africa.


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The Portuguese who followed him
found indigenous people here,


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some of them cannibals, but not
enough of them to work


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the vast plantations of sugar,
cotton and tobacco that they set up,


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so they imported slaves,
by the million, from Africa.


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It is this improbable mix of African
slaves, indigenous people


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and relatively few Europeans
that created


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some of the essential
characteristics of Brazilian life.


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Food, dance, music,
a multiplicity of religions,


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and I will be sampling all of them
as I travel through the north-east,


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where Brazil was born.


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Where Brazil juts out towards Africa


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lie the cities that grew
rich on slave labour.


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I'm starting in Sao Luis,
capital of Maranhao State.


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It's the time of Festas Juninas,
when the religious rituals


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of Europe and Africa come together


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in a typically Brazilian
celebration.


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In Sao Luis, there is a particular
festival that takes its name


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from a slave-inspired celebration
called Bumba-Meu-Boi, Jump My Bull.


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It's in the back-streets
of this once-rich city


39
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that I find out more.


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Bumba-Meu-Boi is part-Pantomime,
part-pageant,


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and here in Floresta, one of the
poorest neighbourhoods in Sao Luis,


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they take it very seriously.


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Augusto Mendes, an English teacher
in the city, thinks the people here


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are closest of all to the
real spirit of Bumba-Meu-Boi.


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How long would they prepare,
Augusto, the dance,


46
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the music and all that?


47
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How long would they spend preparing?


48
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Some groups, in particular
the Floresta Group,


49
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began in April or May.


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So that's about two months, nearly.


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This house in Tome de Souza street
is the home of the two people


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whose drive and energy
keeps everyone going.


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'A 92-year-old called, rather
wonderfully, Apolonio Melonio,


54
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'and his wife, Nadir,
who's somewhat younger.'


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Tell me about this ceremony tonight.


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TRANSLATION: Tonight is the
Bumba-Meu-Boi baptism.


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We'll baptise the bull
you see here.


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The baptism is part of our
Bumba-Meu-Boi ritual.


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It's part of the devotion
we have for our saints,


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particularly St John.


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According to tradition,


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the bull can only leave here for
the main show after being baptised.


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This is Mestre Apolonio who
got this whole thing together


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here in Floresta.


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How old were you when you
saw your first Bumba-Meu-Boi?


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TRANSLATION: The first time I took
part in a Bumba-Meu-Boi group


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I was only eight years old
and that was way back in 1926.


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I knew then and there it was going
to be my mission in life.


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It has been an honour to meet you.


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I look forward to seeing your
footwork on the dance floor later.


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TRANSLATION: Ah, I can't dance
like this any more.


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I don't have the stamina.


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Starting already!


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My legs aren't up to it.


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If they were, I'd be out there
dancing with the rest.


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The ceremony, in which some play
animals, some play humans,


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is based on a 200 year old tale.


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It involves a slave stealing
and killing a cow,


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to remove the tongue, for which
his pregnant wife is desperate.


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The slave is threatened with death,
but at the last minute,


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the bull is miraculously
resurrected and everyone is happy.


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As St John's Day draws closer,
more and more people


83
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crowd round the altar to witness
the baptism of the bull.


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THEY PRAY IN PORTUGUESE


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And firecrackers announce
it's midnight.


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FIRECRACKERS BANG


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And this is just the beginning
of the celebration.


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We will be back here.


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When slavery was abolished
in Brazil in 1888,


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the cotton and sugar-based
economy of Sao Luis,


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deprived of cheap labour,
nose-dived.


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Now, thanks to nearby mineral
resources,


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confidence is growing again.


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But just across the bay
is Alcantara,


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a once fabulously rich town
which never recovered.


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I'm taking this rather long
trip across the sands


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to get the ferry boat
to take me to Alcantara.


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Normally, it would leave
from Sao Luis itself,


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which is over there, but it's low
tide, so they have to leave


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from right out here
on the sand banks.


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More charming, I think.


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Alcantara has the lazy,
laid-back appeal


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of somewhere whose best days
are over.


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But what days they must have been.


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It was once the state capital
and the ghostly remains


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of its great mansions give some
impression of the riches


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accumulated by the plantation
owners over nearly 300 years.


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This is the "Pelourinho" or pillory
- whipping post, as it was called,


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where slaves were punished, and they
were also bought and sold here.


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It has recently been estimated
that of the 11 million slaves


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brought from Africa to the Americas,
over 40% came to Brazil,


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six times as many as went
to the United States.


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They worked here in tobacco
and sugar plantations


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and created the wealth that enabled
their masters to build this,


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a little bit of Europe on the other
side of the Atlantic.


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Alcantara must once have been a
fine place to live, a ruler's town.


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Now the best they can do is to
gather the old stones and leave them


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for the tourists to wonder at what
went right, and what went wrong.


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The beaches of Brazil are the
country's great public playgrounds


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and the north-east has some
of the biggest of them all.


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Big enough for people
to drive up and down them,


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which is what myself
and my friend Augusto,


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and hundreds of other locals,
like to do on a weekend.


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By mid-morning,
the cars are parked up,


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the chairs and tables set out,


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and the beach soon resembles
a sort of semi-naked suburbia,


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a family backyard
that's open to everybody.


128
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Today is a Sunday.


129
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but religion and pleasure
seem to mix quite comfortably.


130
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Do people go to the church first
and then go to the beach?


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They go to the church, pray,


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and come here,
and forget their problems,


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and forget their job.


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Yeah, yeah.


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Girl-watching,
I learn from Augusto,


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is, rather like train-spotting,


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largely practiced
by adolescent boys.


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I'd seen some of them
at a cafe by the roadside,


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passing round a pair of binoculars,


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scanning the beach like naval
officers looking for U-boats.


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00:10:25,600 --> 00:10:28,880
And, he tells me bashfully,
there's a glossary of girl-watching,


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full of fruity metaphors.


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If the girl has a big bum,
we call her Melon Woman.


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OK. big bum, Melon Woman.


145
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And watermelon,
if she has big, big...


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Big, big, big hips, or...


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Yes.


148
00:10:48,600 --> 00:10:50,240
Buttocks. OK, yeah, hips. Yes.


149
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Watermelon, big hips.


150
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And pear woman,
because of the shape,


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like a guitar.


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Oh, right.
It's the same shape.


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SHRIEKING


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00:11:01,560 --> 00:11:02,960
Wow!


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This noise is everywhere.


156
00:11:05,400 --> 00:11:06,680
Yes, everywhere.


157
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People come to dance
and eat something,


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have fun together
with family or friends.


159
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In Brazil, it doesn't matter


160
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if you make a lot of noise from your
sound system, nobody worries.


161
00:11:23,040 --> 00:11:25,440
In England, people would say
"Sssh, quieten down."


162
00:11:25,440 --> 00:11:26,480
Oh, yes?


163
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In Brazil, you are tolerant.


164
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Everybody can do noise everywhere.


165
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Do people from all different
backgrounds, rich and poor,


166
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come to the beach?


167
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Does everybody, even though
they might have a big house,


168
00:11:46,960 --> 00:11:49,960
come to the beach with
the poorer people?


169
00:11:49,960 --> 00:11:53,720
Yes, poor people come by bus
and rich people come by car,


170
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and invite many friends,
so they come together.


171
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Very big social thing
for people in the city.


172
00:12:09,320 --> 00:12:10,680
'A couple of days later,


173
00:12:10,680 --> 00:12:15,760
'Augusto and I are back in Floresta
for the climax of Bumba-Meu-Boi.'


174
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So this is the time when all
the various groups come together


175
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and they show the rest of the city
what they have been preparing?


176
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Today is a big night
for the many groups here


177
00:12:26,000 --> 00:12:29,280
because we celebrate
St Peter's Day.


178
00:12:29,280 --> 00:12:30,640
Yeah.


179
00:12:30,640 --> 00:12:34,160
It's the most important day
here for the Maranhao people, yeah.


180
00:12:34,160 --> 00:12:36,800
'Clutching their emu feathers
and their costumes,


181
00:12:36,800 --> 00:12:39,960
'the people of Floresta
take the bus to the city.'


182
00:12:41,040 --> 00:12:44,640
'There's an air of nervousness
as the time approaches


183
00:12:44,640 --> 00:12:46,960
'for their moment in
the public spotlight.'


184
00:13:03,080 --> 00:13:06,240
'They needn't have worried.
Their performance is fantastic.


185
00:13:06,240 --> 00:13:09,760
'As I watch Nadir and the troupe
take the stage,


186
00:13:09,760 --> 00:13:13,800
'I'm really moved by the spirit and
the quality of their performance.


187
00:13:13,800 --> 00:13:16,240
'They tell the story
as it should be told.


188
00:13:16,240 --> 00:13:19,360
'With their richly-embroidered
costumes,


189
00:13:19,360 --> 00:13:22,440
'and original and inventive masks,
there's a real feeling


190
00:13:22,440 --> 00:13:25,480
'of a community creating
something out of nothing.'


191
00:13:42,160 --> 00:13:45,280
'The Florestans may come from one
of the poorest parts of the city,


192
00:13:45,280 --> 00:13:49,560
'but tonight, as they take over
the old streets of Sao Luis,


193
00:13:49,560 --> 00:13:51,360
'they shine the brightest.'


194
00:13:54,920 --> 00:13:57,280
There's one thing Augusto
will not let me leave


195
00:13:57,280 --> 00:13:59,600
this part of the north-east
without seeing,


196
00:13:59,600 --> 00:14:01,880
and that's the extraordinary
landscape


197
00:14:01,880 --> 00:14:05,160
of the Lencois Maranhenses
National Park,


198
00:14:05,160 --> 00:14:07,040
200 miles south of Sao Luis.


199
00:14:20,880 --> 00:14:24,800
A rare combination of strong winds,
shifting sands,


200
00:14:24,800 --> 00:14:28,280
and heavy rainfall has created
a unique landscape.


201
00:14:28,280 --> 00:14:32,080
Monster sand-dunes, blown
50 kilometres inland from the sea,


202
00:14:32,080 --> 00:14:35,440
are advancing over the surrounding
countryside at the rate


203
00:14:35,440 --> 00:14:36,880
of 200 metres a year.


204
00:14:37,920 --> 00:14:41,280
But what makes the National Park
so special are not just


205
00:14:41,280 --> 00:14:45,640
the shifting, whispering sands,
but the water that falls on them.


206
00:14:45,640 --> 00:14:48,520
Augusto, if this was the Sahara
all this would be a mirage,


207
00:14:48,520 --> 00:14:50,440
but the water is real.


208
00:14:50,440 --> 00:14:52,360
So it rains a lot here, does it?


209
00:14:52,360 --> 00:14:53,680
A lot here, yes.


210
00:14:53,680 --> 00:14:57,000
In March, April and May,


211
00:14:57,000 --> 00:14:59,760
and in August until December
is our dry season.


212
00:14:59,760 --> 00:15:01,240
Yeah.


213
00:15:02,800 --> 00:15:05,440
So these sand dunes, are they sort
of moving all the time,


214
00:15:05,440 --> 00:15:07,520
moving inland, I suppose, as well?


215
00:15:08,680 --> 00:15:12,720
Yes, every day the landscapes change
because of the wind that comes


216
00:15:12,720 --> 00:15:16,880
from the ocean, and the dunes
form many shapes.


217
00:15:16,880 --> 00:15:19,720
So it's never, from one day to the
next, it's never quite the same.


218
00:15:19,720 --> 00:15:20,760
Never.


219
00:15:20,760 --> 00:15:22,160
That must be a big selling point.


220
00:15:22,160 --> 00:15:24,640
The only National Park in the world
where whenever you go,


221
00:15:24,640 --> 00:15:27,120
whichever day you go,
it will be different.


222
00:15:30,400 --> 00:15:32,440
'Mind you, on a day like today,


223
00:15:32,440 --> 00:15:36,040
'you rather wish it would
stay like this for ever.'


224
00:15:46,400 --> 00:15:50,000
My next destination takes me
down the coast to Recife,


225
00:15:50,000 --> 00:15:53,560
capital of the resource-rich
state Pernambuco.


226
00:15:53,560 --> 00:15:55,120
It was originally Dutch,


227
00:15:55,120 --> 00:15:59,880
whose particular brand of hard-line
Calvinism didn't go down well,


228
00:15:59,880 --> 00:16:02,160
and it passed to the Portuguese,
who made much money


229
00:16:02,160 --> 00:16:06,760
from its location as Brazil's
nearest point to Europe and Africa.


230
00:16:08,400 --> 00:16:12,240
Much of its trade has passed to
a super-port down the coast,


231
00:16:12,240 --> 00:16:15,200
but Recife remains Brazil's
fourth biggest city,


232
00:16:15,200 --> 00:16:19,600
with an increasingly
lively cultural scene.


233
00:16:19,600 --> 00:16:21,240
I'm with Paulo Andre,


234
00:16:21,240 --> 00:16:25,720
a music promoter who is dedicated
to selling Recife to the world.


235
00:16:25,720 --> 00:16:29,480
You know, we are culturally
and musically very strong


236
00:16:29,480 --> 00:16:32,960
and I believe one day it's going
to be like, let's say,


237
00:16:32,960 --> 00:16:37,720
tango to Buenos Aires or fado to
Portugal or jazz to New Orleans.


238
00:16:41,720 --> 00:16:44,120
Statues celebrate music
and musicians


239
00:16:44,120 --> 00:16:46,960
like the country singer,
Luiz Gonzaga.


240
00:16:50,280 --> 00:16:54,200
The walls and streets of the city
are covered with striking images,


241
00:16:54,200 --> 00:16:57,880
unselfconscious, expressive
and seemingly tolerated,


242
00:16:57,880 --> 00:16:59,760
however obscure they may be.


243
00:17:02,840 --> 00:17:07,280
'Paulo takes me to see a wall that's
become the private sketchbook


244
00:17:07,280 --> 00:17:10,240
'of 24-year-old artist
Derlon Almeida.'


245
00:17:10,240 --> 00:17:15,640
So is this official art or is
this graffiti, under the wire?


246
00:17:15,640 --> 00:17:22,560
TRANSLATION: It's bit of both, it all
depends on the wall and the space.


247
00:17:22,560 --> 00:17:25,920
If they're unused or derelict,
we don't bother to ask


248
00:17:25,920 --> 00:17:28,120
for permission, but if
the wall has an owner


249
00:17:28,120 --> 00:17:30,600
then we'll ask for permission.


250
00:17:32,680 --> 00:17:35,360
And where do the ideas come from,
like this one, for instance?


251
00:17:35,360 --> 00:17:41,360
TRANSLATION: It's everything
going on around me in Brazil


252
00:17:41,360 --> 00:17:45,240
that I see in my day to day routine
that influences my art.


253
00:17:45,240 --> 00:17:48,440
Pitu is a popular local brand
of cachaca,


254
00:17:48,440 --> 00:17:52,160
and the fish symbolises Recife
because we're on the coast -


255
00:17:52,160 --> 00:17:54,520
fish are very common here.


256
00:17:54,520 --> 00:17:57,160
So I've played around with
these two elements


257
00:17:57,160 --> 00:17:59,960
and brought them together
to create a new creature


258
00:17:59,960 --> 00:18:02,200
and hopefully put in a
bit of humour as well.


259
00:18:03,800 --> 00:18:06,320
I haven't seen so far a fish drinking
Pitu, but this case...


260
00:18:06,320 --> 00:18:08,960
This case it is the first time,
very good, surreal image.


261
00:18:08,960 --> 00:18:12,280
I would like him to come to London
and do something in my street,


262
00:18:12,280 --> 00:18:13,880
I know just the wall...


263
00:18:16,480 --> 00:18:20,480
'The anarchic, surrealist spirit
is not confined to street art.'


264
00:18:22,080 --> 00:18:26,640
'This sculpture park by the sea
wall was officially opened


265
00:18:26,640 --> 00:18:30,200
'in the year 2000 to mark
a great national celebration.'


266
00:18:30,200 --> 00:18:31,600
Whose work is this?


267
00:18:31,600 --> 00:18:36,640
This is the work of one
of the most important


268
00:18:36,640 --> 00:18:38,760
visual artists of Pernambuco.


269
00:18:38,760 --> 00:18:41,000
His name is Francisco Brenan.


270
00:18:41,000 --> 00:18:42,280
Yeah.


271
00:18:42,280 --> 00:18:46,360
And this was done in 2000,
because of the 500 years of Brazil.


272
00:18:46,360 --> 00:18:47,720
Yeah.


273
00:18:47,720 --> 00:18:51,600
And at the time there was a note
in the newspapers saying that


274
00:18:51,600 --> 00:18:55,200
the wife of the mayor didn't like
so much this big sculpture


275
00:18:55,200 --> 00:18:59,840
because it looked like a male
genital organ, and it was...


276
00:18:59,840 --> 00:19:03,480
Except that's a bit bigger!


277
00:19:03,480 --> 00:19:06,720
Yes, you know, maybe the biggest one,
but the mayor


278
00:19:06,720 --> 00:19:11,440
went in the newspaper office with
a gun and threatened the journalist,


279
00:19:11,440 --> 00:19:16,160
so in the end, the sculpture is here,
but he lost the next election.


280
00:19:16,160 --> 00:19:19,040
Great story of penis envy.


281
00:19:21,080 --> 00:19:22,880
But Recife also has sculptures


282
00:19:22,880 --> 00:19:25,480
that show the darker side
of Brazil's history.


283
00:19:26,680 --> 00:19:31,440
Just like many countries in South
and Central America, Brazil was


284
00:19:31,440 --> 00:19:37,760
under a dictatorship, and this is
a monument in honour of the people


285
00:19:37,760 --> 00:19:42,280
who were arrested, tortured,
sometimes exiled and even killed.


286
00:19:42,280 --> 00:19:43,560
It's very powerful.


287
00:19:43,560 --> 00:19:46,920
It was almost 20 years
of dictatorship,


288
00:19:46,920 --> 00:19:49,880
and this is the position that they
used to torture people.


289
00:19:51,120 --> 00:19:53,560
What kind of people did
the dictators torture?


290
00:19:53,560 --> 00:19:56,640
People related to
the Communist Party.


291
00:19:56,640 --> 00:20:00,720
And also artists used to get
arrested, you know,


292
00:20:00,720 --> 00:20:02,640
because of the message.


293
00:20:02,640 --> 00:20:04,440
Critical of the government, yeah.


294
00:20:04,440 --> 00:20:09,560
Like, I have an uncle. He was a
medical student, and he was arrested.


295
00:20:09,560 --> 00:20:13,960
He stayed in a penitentiary, so it's
part of the story of my family, too.


296
00:20:15,880 --> 00:20:19,520
That's a very sad
part of Brazil's history.


297
00:20:19,520 --> 00:20:20,720
Yeah.


298
00:20:22,440 --> 00:20:27,000
'In the heart of Recife is a fine,
old railway station.


299
00:20:27,000 --> 00:20:32,200
'It was built 150 years
ago for the EFCP,


300
00:20:32,200 --> 00:20:35,080
'Estrada de Ferro Central
Pernambuco,


301
00:20:35,080 --> 00:20:38,000
'with British steel
and French style.


302
00:20:38,000 --> 00:20:42,560
'It's long been closed, but inside,
under the original Victorian canopy,


303
00:20:42,560 --> 00:20:45,080
'I get the chance to indulge
in a touch of nostalgia.'


304
00:20:46,840 --> 00:20:50,760
It's a little bit
of Great Britain left in Pernambuco.


305
00:20:50,760 --> 00:20:53,800
This is it. Great Western...


306
00:20:53,800 --> 00:20:56,000
..Brazilian Railway.


307
00:20:56,000 --> 00:20:59,120
It's the kind of thing that
you find all over the world,


308
00:20:59,120 --> 00:21:01,360
that the British have left behind,
is railways.


309
00:21:01,360 --> 00:21:04,600
I mean, are there any other legacies
of the British in Brazil that


310
00:21:04,600 --> 00:21:06,360
still exist that you can think of?


311
00:21:06,360 --> 00:21:09,640
Yes. Here in Recife, we still have
the British Country Club,


312
00:21:09,640 --> 00:21:10,960
which is a social club.


313
00:21:10,960 --> 00:21:12,640
Oh, right. Still called British?


314
00:21:12,640 --> 00:21:14,640
Still called British Country Club.


315
00:21:14,640 --> 00:21:18,480
We also have the British cemetery,
but I think the British are


316
00:21:18,480 --> 00:21:23,640
responsible for the biggest Brazilian
passion of all time, which is soccer.


317
00:21:23,640 --> 00:21:28,720
It was started in Brazil by a British
guy who showed the Brazilians,


318
00:21:28,720 --> 00:21:30,960
and that became our biggest passion.


319
00:21:30,960 --> 00:21:34,080
That's quite something, isn't it?
That's something worth remembering.


320
00:21:34,080 --> 00:21:36,400
I mean, railways don't seem to have
left much of a mark,


321
00:21:36,400 --> 00:21:39,200
but soccer, yeah,
that's pretty impressive.


322
00:21:54,720 --> 00:21:58,040
Across the bay is Olinda,
founded in 1535,


323
00:21:58,040 --> 00:22:00,360
and one of the oldest cities
in Brazil.


324
00:22:01,680 --> 00:22:04,880
The streets have an intimate,
old colonial feel.


325
00:22:06,280 --> 00:22:08,880
Nice way to end the day Paulo,
thank you!


326
00:22:08,880 --> 00:22:10,360
Yeah, Michael, it was a great day!


327
00:22:10,360 --> 00:22:14,880
A place like this, a grocery shop
where you can buy nappies, cheese


328
00:22:14,880 --> 00:22:18,440
and get a drink, is this sort of
familiar kind of place in Brazil?


329
00:22:18,440 --> 00:22:22,000
Yes, this a typical Bodega where you
can shop during the day, you know,


330
00:22:22,000 --> 00:22:25,120
for stuff for the house, food,
but also, of course,


331
00:22:25,120 --> 00:22:28,160
Brazilians are heavy drinkers and
they like beer, so at the end


332
00:22:28,160 --> 00:22:32,320
of the day you come for a cachaca or
a beer, just like in England


333
00:22:32,320 --> 00:22:35,440
people go to a pub,
the Brazilians go to a Bodega


334
00:22:35,440 --> 00:22:38,240
and then you can eat a sandwich
with cheese or salami.


335
00:22:38,240 --> 00:22:43,040
They also sell CDs
of the local bands and paintings.


336
00:22:44,240 --> 00:22:45,840
Great picture.


337
00:22:45,840 --> 00:22:49,240
As you can see, the bottle
in Brazil is big,


338
00:22:49,240 --> 00:22:51,800
so it has to carry lots of beer.


339
00:22:51,800 --> 00:22:55,000
Yes, well, cheers! Should we tell
the camera to switch off?


340
00:22:55,000 --> 00:22:57,280
Yes. Probably! Good night!


341
00:23:01,120 --> 00:23:04,160
'But Paulo has one more
surprise for me.'


342
00:23:04,160 --> 00:23:08,480
Another typical night on the streets
of Brazil, music everywhere.


343
00:23:08,480 --> 00:23:11,920
But what's the music
we're going to hear tonight?


344
00:23:11,920 --> 00:23:14,080
Is this a particularly local thing?


345
00:23:14,080 --> 00:23:19,640
It is, Michael. It's a forro night
with the, played with the rabeca,


346
00:23:19,640 --> 00:23:23,840
which is a kind of fiddle, and,
of course, we are in the end of


347
00:23:23,840 --> 00:23:27,840
our Sao Joao, St John season
where forro is the sound track.


348
00:23:27,840 --> 00:23:28,920
Forro, yeah.


349
00:23:28,920 --> 00:23:32,040
I read somewhere that it was
a mishearing of the English word


350
00:23:32,040 --> 00:23:37,920
"For All" which the English railway
people and the employers provided


351
00:23:37,920 --> 00:23:41,760
music for everyone to dance to,
and it was called "For All".


352
00:23:41,760 --> 00:23:43,680
Is that true or is it a myth?


353
00:23:43,680 --> 00:23:44,920
I think it's a myth.


354
00:23:44,920 --> 00:23:49,240
It comes from "Forrobodo"
which is a word that means "party".


355
00:23:49,240 --> 00:23:52,440
You know, "Let's go to a forrobodo"
means "Let's go party" -


356
00:23:52,440 --> 00:23:54,800
let's go dance, hear music,
have drinks,


357
00:23:54,800 --> 00:23:58,440
so it's a short word for forrobodo.


358
00:24:01,200 --> 00:24:03,800
'The forro they dance here
requires a loose, sinuous,


359
00:24:03,800 --> 00:24:07,720
'gyration of the hips, which
I can only stand and admire.'


360
00:24:15,160 --> 00:24:19,240
'But, as Paulo warned me earlier -
in Brazil, everybody dances.'


361
00:24:39,320 --> 00:24:43,360
I'm leaving the high life
of the cities behind for a while,


362
00:24:43,360 --> 00:24:46,560
for a glimpse of life
in the interior.


363
00:24:46,560 --> 00:24:49,240
Well, I'm 500 miles inland
from the coast now


364
00:24:49,240 --> 00:24:52,320
in the hot, dry, hard outback
of north-east Brazil.


365
00:24:52,320 --> 00:24:54,320
They call this the Sertao.


366
00:24:54,320 --> 00:24:56,760
It's cowboy country,
land of the vaqueiros,


367
00:24:56,760 --> 00:25:00,560
and I'm here for an event called
Pega de Boi, Catch The Bull.


368
00:25:02,360 --> 00:25:04,160
Says it all, really.


369
00:25:19,160 --> 00:25:21,240
In a world of cars
and pick-up trucks,


370
00:25:21,240 --> 00:25:25,160
the old-style cowboy is becoming
a threatened species,


371
00:25:25,160 --> 00:25:28,880
but these vaqueiros are staunchly
proud of their traditions.


372
00:25:28,880 --> 00:25:32,720
Pega de Boi is a chance to show
their skills, win some money,


373
00:25:32,720 --> 00:25:37,400
and for a while at least, relieve
the loneliness of life in the bush.


374
00:25:37,400 --> 00:25:40,320
BAND PLAYS BRAZILIAN MUSIC


375
00:25:56,360 --> 00:26:00,280
Families and friends do their best
to create a party atmosphere.


376
00:26:01,720 --> 00:26:05,880
But some of the cowboys are
much older than I'd expected.


377
00:26:05,880 --> 00:26:09,480
Men with tired eyes
and deeply lined faces.


378
00:26:15,040 --> 00:26:16,840
When the time comes
to chase the bull,


379
00:26:16,840 --> 00:26:19,360
they protect themselves from
the viciously spiky scrub,


380
00:26:19,360 --> 00:26:23,080
with the leather equivalent
of a suit of armour.


381
00:26:24,960 --> 00:26:27,560
I'm told that, despite this
comprehensive protection,


382
00:26:27,560 --> 00:26:30,840
some of the cowboys will
deliberately leave a strap untied


383
00:26:30,840 --> 00:26:32,360
or a hand revealed,


384
00:26:32,360 --> 00:26:35,880
as drops of blood are seen as
a badge of courage.


385
00:26:37,880 --> 00:26:40,200
The man behind Pega de Boi


386
00:26:40,200 --> 00:26:43,480
is a whippet-thin 70-year-old
called Julio.


387
00:26:43,480 --> 00:26:46,480
Of shrewd eye, and seemingly
insatiable energy,


388
00:26:46,480 --> 00:26:50,000
he's totally committed
to the old way of life.


389
00:26:50,000 --> 00:26:53,880
Julio, were you born into
a family of cowboys?


390
00:26:53,880 --> 00:26:57,720
TRANSLATION: I was born into a cowboy
family, grew up a cowboy,


391
00:26:57,720 --> 00:26:59,600
and still am one.


392
00:26:59,600 --> 00:27:02,800
I'm proud to call myself a cowboy,
it's a good profession.


393
00:27:02,800 --> 00:27:04,440
How dangerous is it?


394
00:27:04,440 --> 00:27:07,480
You seem to have got a... on your
head, here. What happened there?


395
00:27:07,480 --> 00:27:13,920
TRANSLATION: Yes, it's dangerous.
I got kicked in the head by a cow!


396
00:27:16,320 --> 00:27:18,120
I was nursing a wound she had,


397
00:27:18,120 --> 00:27:20,880
and forgot to tie her legs up
and she kicked me.


398
00:27:22,360 --> 00:27:24,560
But I don't blame the cow!


399
00:27:26,960 --> 00:27:30,400
'The vaqueiros do have a political
and social ally


400
00:27:30,400 --> 00:27:33,840
'in the shape of Tiago Cancio,
a local politician


401
00:27:33,840 --> 00:27:38,440
'whose father gave up the life
of a priest to become a cowboy.'


402
00:27:38,440 --> 00:27:43,720
Tiago, what makes the vaqueiros
of the Sertao here special?


403
00:27:43,720 --> 00:27:46,840
Are they different from the rest of
the cowboys in Brazil?


404
00:27:48,440 --> 00:27:53,520
TRANSLATION: The vaqueiro
is unique to the Sertao.


405
00:27:55,400 --> 00:27:58,440
They risk their lives
to earn a crust.


406
00:27:58,440 --> 00:28:01,600
They ride headlong into the jungle
to chase wild bulls


407
00:28:01,600 --> 00:28:05,200
and round up cattle, they're
very courageous and fearless.


408
00:28:08,040 --> 00:28:10,600
'Everyone's ready now
for the climax of the day.'


409
00:28:10,600 --> 00:28:12,280
'With shouts of celebration,


410
00:28:12,280 --> 00:28:16,200
'the five young bulls are released
from their makeshift paddock.'


411
00:28:16,200 --> 00:28:19,960
CROWD CHEERS


412
00:28:21,920 --> 00:28:25,600
'They're given 15 minutes
to get away before, at last,


413
00:28:25,600 --> 00:28:28,000
'the cowboys are allowed
to chase them.'


414
00:28:29,720 --> 00:28:32,200
CROWD CHEERS


415
00:28:37,920 --> 00:28:41,320
The lucky ones who catch the bulls
can claim cash prizes.


416
00:28:46,680 --> 00:28:50,600
Hey! Good, it's started.
They're off!


417
00:28:59,240 --> 00:29:02,760
Almost 45 minutes pass
before a bull is spotted,


418
00:29:02,760 --> 00:29:06,480
captured and led out of the scrub
and down the hill.


419
00:29:09,520 --> 00:29:13,400
The prize is claimed by two of
youngest riders in the pack,


420
00:29:13,400 --> 00:29:16,800
which must be a good sign
for the profession.


421
00:29:16,800 --> 00:29:18,920
Despite some outward appearances,


422
00:29:18,920 --> 00:29:22,920
perhaps there is a new generation
of cowboys waiting in the wings.


423
00:29:27,920 --> 00:29:31,600
From the hot, dry heartland,
it's time to retrace my steps


424
00:29:31,600 --> 00:29:35,160
to the coast, and the city
that is the undisputed jewel


425
00:29:35,160 --> 00:29:38,880
of the north-east, and one of the
most exciting in all Brazil.


426
00:29:38,880 --> 00:29:39,960
Salvador.


427
00:29:41,560 --> 00:29:45,760
It lies on the Baia de Todos os
Santos - All Saints Bay -


428
00:29:45,760 --> 00:29:49,280
which gives its name
to the state of Bahia.


429
00:29:50,680 --> 00:29:55,000
For over 200 years, Salvador
was the capital of Brazil,


430
00:29:55,000 --> 00:29:58,200
as sugar and cotton production
made Bahia fabulously rich.


431
00:30:00,320 --> 00:30:03,280
Salvador may have ceded its
capital status first to Rio,


432
00:30:03,280 --> 00:30:07,560
then to Brasilia, but it remains
the third largest city in Brazil.


433
00:30:07,560 --> 00:30:11,400
Of its population of
nearly 3,500,000,


434
00:30:11,400 --> 00:30:14,680
82% are of black descent,


435
00:30:14,680 --> 00:30:18,280
making Salvador the biggest
African city outside Africa.


436
00:30:26,800 --> 00:30:30,560
'My guide is Sofia, daughter
of Irish-Brazilian parents,


437
00:30:30,560 --> 00:30:34,880
'and currently studying
architecture and city planning.


438
00:30:34,880 --> 00:30:39,080
'The most eye-catching architecture
in Salvador is religious,


439
00:30:39,080 --> 00:30:43,000
'reflecting the enormous wealth
of the Catholic church.'


440
00:30:43,000 --> 00:30:45,840
So it is about the beginning of
the 18th century all this was done?


441
00:30:45,840 --> 00:30:47,920
All this was done, yeah.


442
00:30:47,920 --> 00:30:54,160
So then, was a lot of money coming
into Brazil from sugar?


443
00:30:54,160 --> 00:30:59,040
Sugar, tobacco, coffee and gold.


444
00:30:59,040 --> 00:31:01,920
'Gold, for which this church
of St Francis


445
00:31:01,920 --> 00:31:04,960
'is an extraordinary
gesture of thanks.'


446
00:31:04,960 --> 00:31:06,880
Wow!


447
00:31:06,880 --> 00:31:08,920
The effect is incredible.


448
00:31:08,920 --> 00:31:11,800
I haven't seen anything
really quite like that.


449
00:31:11,800 --> 00:31:14,600
It's just the sheer,
the sort of scale, isn't it?


450
00:31:14,600 --> 00:31:17,160
There's not a bit of wall
that's not been covered.


451
00:31:19,040 --> 00:31:20,560
A lot of gold, there.


452
00:31:20,560 --> 00:31:21,800
A lot of gold.


453
00:31:23,000 --> 00:31:25,240
But it's to show the world


454
00:31:25,240 --> 00:31:27,680
that Brazil was one of the
main producers of gold.


455
00:31:27,680 --> 00:31:31,440
Sort of showing, "This is what
we've got, plenty of this."


456
00:31:31,440 --> 00:31:33,920
More where that came from,
sort of thing, yeah.


457
00:31:33,920 --> 00:31:36,680
'It's a powerful display
of self-confidence.'


458
00:31:38,720 --> 00:31:42,520
'Religion in Salvador expresses
itself in many different ways,


459
00:31:42,520 --> 00:31:44,640
'as I learn when Sofia takes me


460
00:31:44,640 --> 00:31:46,960
'to another grand
18th century church.


461
00:31:46,960 --> 00:31:49,520
'The church of Our Lord of Bonfim.'


462
00:31:50,520 --> 00:31:53,920
People in Bahia are very
superstitious,


463
00:31:53,920 --> 00:31:57,480
especially in Salvador, so people
will come here every first Friday


464
00:31:57,480 --> 00:31:59,120
of the month to make their wishes,


465
00:31:59,120 --> 00:32:01,720
people even bring their cars
here to be blessed, you know.


466
00:32:01,720 --> 00:32:03,760
So basically anything can be
blessed?


467
00:32:03,760 --> 00:32:06,120
Anything can be blessed.


468
00:32:06,120 --> 00:32:07,400
Your TV?


469
00:32:07,400 --> 00:32:08,520
Maybe.


470
00:32:08,520 --> 00:32:09,920
Possibly. Your mobile?


471
00:32:09,920 --> 00:32:12,840
'The blessing is embodied
in these strips of ribbon,


472
00:32:12,840 --> 00:32:15,440
'called fitas do Bonfim.'


473
00:32:15,440 --> 00:32:18,480
'You wear one round your wrist
and make a wish,


474
00:32:18,480 --> 00:32:21,600
'which will only be granted
when the ribbon falls apart.


475
00:32:21,600 --> 00:32:23,800
'In some cases,
this can take months.


476
00:32:25,120 --> 00:32:27,360
'Inside the church,
faith and superstition


477
00:32:27,360 --> 00:32:29,280
'make more bizarre bedfellows.'


478
00:32:31,400 --> 00:32:34,000
Oh, good heavens.
This is very, very strange.


479
00:32:36,400 --> 00:32:38,560
What are all these? Wax, are they?


480
00:32:38,560 --> 00:32:42,560
This is basically people who got ill,
they bring the part of the body


481
00:32:42,560 --> 00:32:46,840
which was ill and it got cured,


482
00:32:46,840 --> 00:32:49,840
so they have all these wax pieces.


483
00:32:49,840 --> 00:32:51,280
Yeah.


484
00:32:51,280 --> 00:32:55,200
All the different parts of the body
that were cured.


485
00:32:57,960 --> 00:33:01,120
A little cluster of hearts
up there. That's very strange.


486
00:33:01,120 --> 00:33:05,560
Really is. It's like a kind of
gruesome shop, but again,


487
00:33:05,560 --> 00:33:09,000
this is very powerful,
these photos around here.


488
00:33:09,000 --> 00:33:14,160
The photos are of people who either
made promises to get cured


489
00:33:14,160 --> 00:33:20,080
or to get into universities
or achieved what they want.


490
00:33:20,080 --> 00:33:22,040
They come here with the photographs.


491
00:33:22,040 --> 00:33:24,960
Yeah. So they believe
that the devotion,


492
00:33:24,960 --> 00:33:28,040
by coming here to this church
has changed their lives, basically.


493
00:33:28,040 --> 00:33:29,880
Yeah.


494
00:33:29,880 --> 00:33:33,200
Has cured them, has enabled them
to become successful in exams


495
00:33:33,200 --> 00:33:34,920
and business and all that.


496
00:33:34,920 --> 00:33:36,080
Exactly. Wow.


497
00:33:55,600 --> 00:33:59,480
Everywhere in Salvador I'm reminded
of the city's African roots.


498
00:33:59,480 --> 00:34:03,240
These figures in a lake in the
centre of town are Orishas,


499
00:34:03,240 --> 00:34:04,880
the gods of Candomble.


500
00:34:06,080 --> 00:34:07,480
Candomble is a religion


501
00:34:07,480 --> 00:34:11,200
that fuses the African spirit
world with Catholicism.


502
00:34:11,200 --> 00:34:14,320
Officially banned until the 1960s,


503
00:34:14,320 --> 00:34:16,600
its popularity is now countrywide.


504
00:34:19,760 --> 00:34:22,480
Well, I'm all dressed in white,
because I'm going to something,


505
00:34:22,480 --> 00:34:26,200
I've never done before, which is
to witness a Candomble ceremony,


506
00:34:26,200 --> 00:34:30,120
this African animist ceremony.


507
00:34:31,600 --> 00:34:34,640
It's going to take place in here
and the Pai-de-santo is,


508
00:34:34,640 --> 00:34:38,720
first of all, I think he's
going to read my fortune,


509
00:34:38,720 --> 00:34:41,480
or the buzios, they call them,
the cowry shells.


510
00:34:41,480 --> 00:34:44,920
So I might find out something very
unpleasant, or pleasant, who knows?


511
00:34:46,440 --> 00:34:51,840
'The Pai-de-santo, Father
of the Saints, is called John.


512
00:34:51,840 --> 00:34:55,680
'He's the local Candomble priest
and this is his house.


513
00:34:55,680 --> 00:34:58,920
'And in case you wonder,
we've never met before.'


514
00:35:05,000 --> 00:35:11,280
TRANSLATION: Orishas open the table
with good faith.


515
00:35:11,280 --> 00:35:14,680
Oxossi opens your table and talks
about the struggles in your life.


516
00:35:14,680 --> 00:35:18,680
You are an intelligent man, a man
that fought hard to accomplish


517
00:35:18,680 --> 00:35:22,960
your goals and today you have
the opportunity to show


518
00:35:22,960 --> 00:35:25,680
to the world much information
and all your knowledge.


519
00:35:30,440 --> 00:35:31,920
Casado?


520
00:35:31,920 --> 00:35:33,760
Married?


521
00:35:33,760 --> 00:35:35,080
Yeah.


522
00:35:36,360 --> 00:35:38,360
Bambino? Tres, quatro?


523
00:35:38,360 --> 00:35:39,760
Three or four children?


524
00:35:39,760 --> 00:35:40,880
Three.


525
00:35:40,880 --> 00:35:42,280
Tres?


526
00:35:42,280 --> 00:35:43,600
Tres.


527
00:35:46,480 --> 00:35:51,640
I hope you don't think this is
disrespectful, Pai-de-santo,


528
00:35:51,640 --> 00:35:54,440
but I have to ask for my countrymen.


529
00:35:54,440 --> 00:35:58,000
Will England ever win
the World Cup again?


530
00:36:00,280 --> 00:36:05,680
HE CHANTS IN PORTUGUESE


531
00:36:32,880 --> 00:36:35,840
Exu diz no jogo que nao.


532
00:36:37,400 --> 00:36:39,080
Thank you!


533
00:36:39,080 --> 00:36:41,720
There we are,
we can save ourselves the trouble!


534
00:37:00,120 --> 00:37:03,960
'The Candomble ceremony takes
place in Pao Joao's front room.'


535
00:37:05,880 --> 00:37:08,840
'It's confusing,
and at times mystifying,


536
00:37:08,840 --> 00:37:10,760
'but that seems to be the point.'


537
00:37:25,600 --> 00:37:28,600
'The participants, representing
the various orishas,


538
00:37:28,600 --> 00:37:31,280
'dance themselves into a
trance-like state,


539
00:37:31,280 --> 00:37:33,800
'until they feel their bodies
are inhabited


540
00:37:33,800 --> 00:37:35,120
'by the spirit of the gods.


541
00:37:35,120 --> 00:37:36,880
'Unlike our western rituals,


542
00:37:36,880 --> 00:37:40,280
'their performance is never
the same twice.


543
00:37:40,280 --> 00:37:44,640
'No-one knows exactly what will
happen when the drums begin.'


544
00:38:34,800 --> 00:38:38,000
'The people of north-east Brazil
love noise and colour.


545
00:38:38,000 --> 00:38:42,120
'The two come together in Salvador's
Pelourinho area


546
00:38:42,120 --> 00:38:44,880
'under the name of Olodum.


547
00:38:44,880 --> 00:38:47,160
'It's short for Olodumare,


548
00:38:47,160 --> 00:38:49,640
'the god of gods of the Yoruba
people of Nigeria.'


549
00:38:52,840 --> 00:38:55,720
'Olodum is the name of a social
initiative to bring


550
00:38:55,720 --> 00:38:59,200
'a sense of achievement to the
street children of Salvador.'


551
00:39:01,560 --> 00:39:04,960
'It teaches them the art of African
drumming and through that,


552
00:39:04,960 --> 00:39:08,160
'respect for the land
of their ancestors.


553
00:39:08,160 --> 00:39:11,400
'They've taken over the streets
of Old Salvador this morning


554
00:39:11,400 --> 00:39:14,440
'without telling anybody,
but that's Brazil for you.


555
00:39:14,440 --> 00:39:18,440
'And they have recruited
some rather old children.'


556
00:39:18,440 --> 00:39:20,120
This is Pacote.


557
00:39:20,120 --> 00:39:23,000
He's going to initiate me
on the ways of Olodum.


558
00:39:23,000 --> 00:39:24,800
OK, Pacote, take it away!


559
00:39:24,800 --> 00:39:26,240
Vou ensinar voce...


560
00:39:29,960 --> 00:39:32,440
Life goes on,
this is the middle of the street.


561
00:39:32,440 --> 00:39:34,920
A batida do coracao.


562
00:39:34,920 --> 00:39:37,280
Oh, the beat of the heart.


563
00:39:37,280 --> 00:39:39,200
My heart's going
boom-boom-boom-boom!


564
00:39:46,560 --> 00:39:48,520
Isso.


565
00:39:53,280 --> 00:39:55,000
OK, OK.


566
00:40:42,440 --> 00:40:44,560
'I'm getting the hang of this.


567
00:40:44,560 --> 00:40:46,760
'Time for a touch
of the Keith Moons.'


568
00:41:07,080 --> 00:41:09,760
'Having rather disgraced
myself on the drums,


569
00:41:09,760 --> 00:41:13,400
'I look for some solace in the
pleasures of Bahian cuisine.'


570
00:41:18,680 --> 00:41:22,400
Like religion,
the food is a fusion of cultures,


571
00:41:22,400 --> 00:41:26,040
combining African, Portuguese
and indigenous influences.


572
00:41:26,040 --> 00:41:29,600
Given the abundance of seafood,
it's a welcome change


573
00:41:29,600 --> 00:41:33,800
from the meaty fare that most
Brazilians seem to prefer.


574
00:41:33,800 --> 00:41:38,560
The personification of Bahian
cooking is Aldaci dos Santos,


575
00:41:38,560 --> 00:41:40,320
known to all as "Dada".


576
00:41:40,320 --> 00:41:43,320
From selling snacks on the beach,
she has risen to become


577
00:41:43,320 --> 00:41:47,400
an inspirational restaurateur
and chef to the famous.


578
00:41:47,400 --> 00:41:50,200
Who better to turn
to for consolation?


579
00:41:52,320 --> 00:41:57,240
This is Dada, who is a superb...
one of the great cooks


580
00:41:57,240 --> 00:41:59,880
of Salvador and Bahian cuisine.


581
00:41:59,880 --> 00:42:04,600
And I am a great eater of all food,
and Dada's going to show me round,


582
00:42:04,600 --> 00:42:10,720
buy some food at the market and then
we are going to cook and then eat.


583
00:42:10,720 --> 00:42:13,760
Vamos agora conhecer
o mercado do peixe.


584
00:42:13,760 --> 00:42:14,880
OK.


585
00:42:14,880 --> 00:42:16,440
OK? Mercado do peixe.


586
00:42:16,440 --> 00:42:19,240
Do peixe. OK, so we are at
the fish market, let's go!


587
00:42:20,880 --> 00:42:22,440
Mercado do peixe.


588
00:42:27,160 --> 00:42:28,480
He's had too much fish!


589
00:42:28,480 --> 00:42:30,320
DADA LAUGHS


590
00:42:44,880 --> 00:42:46,280
Delicia!


591
00:42:49,680 --> 00:42:53,640
Think she's going to make a moqueca,
which is a classic fish stew.


592
00:42:55,920 --> 00:42:56,960
Polvo.


593
00:42:56,960 --> 00:42:58,200
Octopus, yeah.


594
00:42:59,920 --> 00:43:01,200
Gosh, fresh mud crabs.


595
00:43:01,200 --> 00:43:02,760
Caranguejo. Caranguejo.


596
00:43:02,760 --> 00:43:05,840
They're alive, they look as though
they're about a thousand years old!


597
00:43:11,960 --> 00:43:13,400
Ah, that's better, yeah.


598
00:43:15,800 --> 00:43:18,280
Mmm. Marvellous.


599
00:43:34,480 --> 00:43:37,720
So these, you cook with them,
you bathe in them


600
00:43:37,720 --> 00:43:40,560
and you make tea with them.


601
00:43:45,880 --> 00:43:47,200
I feel better already!


602
00:43:47,200 --> 00:43:49,120
OK!


603
00:43:51,720 --> 00:43:53,680
Fantastic, yeah.


604
00:43:53,680 --> 00:43:55,560
SHE LAUGHS


605
00:43:58,880 --> 00:44:00,640
SHE LAUGHS


606
00:44:07,640 --> 00:44:09,480
Made a pig's ear of that one(!)


607
00:44:13,960 --> 00:44:16,320
Do you want a hand?


608
00:44:16,320 --> 00:44:18,000
SHE SHRIEKS WITH LAUGHTER


609
00:44:22,480 --> 00:44:24,560
This is an Olympic sport!


610
00:44:24,560 --> 00:44:26,160
Oh, Michael!


611
00:44:26,160 --> 00:44:28,080
Oh-oh-oh!


612
00:44:41,440 --> 00:44:44,240
I can't believe I'm going to
eat a meal after this, as well.


613
00:44:44,240 --> 00:44:46,480
I've eaten a meal just
going around the market.


614
00:44:47,840 --> 00:44:51,560
Can I ask you, Dada,
how did you first learn to cook?


615
00:44:51,560 --> 00:44:56,480
TRANSLATION: I started cooking
when I was five.


616
00:44:56,480 --> 00:45:01,440
I was working with my mother as a
housekeeper in a large family house,


617
00:45:01,440 --> 00:45:04,600
getting paid by the day
in order to earn a living.


618
00:45:05,720 --> 00:45:09,360
My mother and I would find work on
these large farms in the country


619
00:45:09,360 --> 00:45:13,720
because we didn't have our own place
to live so we had to earn our keep.


620
00:45:13,720 --> 00:45:16,680
When I cooked, it felt
like I was whole.


621
00:45:16,680 --> 00:45:20,960
I was a child, but I didn't
have a proper childhood


622
00:45:20,960 --> 00:45:24,680
because I had to work from an
early age, and when I cooked,


623
00:45:24,680 --> 00:45:28,440
mixing all the spices
and the food in my kitchen,


624
00:45:28,440 --> 00:45:32,480
it was like heaven to me,
it was my fantasy world.


625
00:45:37,080 --> 00:45:40,440
Now you are a successful
business woman, Dada,


626
00:45:40,440 --> 00:45:44,480
do you still enjoy cooking
as much as you did?


627
00:45:44,480 --> 00:45:45,600
Mais.


628
00:45:45,600 --> 00:45:46,640
More?


629
00:45:46,640 --> 00:45:47,800
Muito mais.


630
00:45:47,800 --> 00:45:50,680
TRANSLATION: Each day that goes by,
I like it more and more.


631
00:45:50,680 --> 00:45:54,240
The kitchen and cooking for me
is like having sex.


632
00:45:54,240 --> 00:45:58,240
When cooking, I feel fulfilled as
if I was having a great orgasm.


633
00:45:58,240 --> 00:46:01,440
It must be exhausting
every time you make a meal.


634
00:46:01,440 --> 00:46:05,240
TRANSLATION: No, not really,
I get more tired making love.


635
00:46:06,720 --> 00:46:11,400
What is it about your food
that makes it very special?


636
00:46:11,400 --> 00:46:17,600
TRANSLATION: All the ingredients are
fresh and bought with a lot of care,


637
00:46:17,600 --> 00:46:20,520
but I think the main thing for me


638
00:46:20,520 --> 00:46:24,120
is the transformation
that love brings about.


639
00:46:24,120 --> 00:46:29,040
When I cook, I cook for real,
it comes from inside Dada,


640
00:46:29,040 --> 00:46:33,560
from inside my heart, so it's love
that transforms the flavours.


641
00:46:36,360 --> 00:46:39,440
Oh, fantastic!


642
00:46:39,440 --> 00:46:42,880
Fantastic, yes.


643
00:46:42,880 --> 00:46:44,640
Beautiful!


644
00:46:44,640 --> 00:46:47,640
Look, I cut that!


645
00:46:47,640 --> 00:46:49,560
A calombreta?


646
00:46:49,560 --> 00:46:50,960
I cut that bit.


647
00:46:50,960 --> 00:46:52,560
It's not cut very well.


648
00:46:52,560 --> 00:46:54,200
OK, Michael!


649
00:46:54,200 --> 00:46:58,960
Wow! Oh! Ha-ha-ha!


650
00:47:01,200 --> 00:47:02,280
Mmm. Comer um peixe?


651
00:47:02,280 --> 00:47:03,600
Oh, wow!


652
00:47:03,600 --> 00:47:07,040
'Some guide books I'd read were a
bit sniffy about Dada's restaurant,


653
00:47:07,040 --> 00:47:10,040
'suggesting success had spoiled her.


654
00:47:10,040 --> 00:47:13,080
'But for me, Dada has been
responsible for the best meal


655
00:47:13,080 --> 00:47:14,800
'I've yet had in the north-east.


656
00:47:14,800 --> 00:47:17,600
'She's a remarkable women,
who you feel can do anything


657
00:47:17,600 --> 00:47:19,240
'she sets herself to.'


658
00:47:19,240 --> 00:47:21,360
You're a very good advert
for your own cooking.


659
00:47:21,360 --> 00:47:25,120
'Except perhaps for one thing she
really needs to be able to do -


660
00:47:25,120 --> 00:47:26,520
'clone herself.'


661
00:47:26,520 --> 00:47:28,680
Comida deliciosa.


662
00:47:28,680 --> 00:47:30,280
Muito obrigada.


663
00:47:30,280 --> 00:47:32,480
Meus comprimentos ao chefe!


664
00:47:32,480 --> 00:47:34,240
Muito obrigada.


665
00:47:43,160 --> 00:47:46,600
'One of the poorest areas of
Salvador is called Liberdade.


666
00:47:46,600 --> 00:47:49,080
'It's where the freed slaves
came to live


667
00:47:49,080 --> 00:47:51,200
'after the abolition of slavery.


668
00:47:51,200 --> 00:47:54,880
'It's still an area of shanty towns,
or favelas,


669
00:47:54,880 --> 00:47:57,760
'like this one called
Vale das Pedrinhas.


670
00:47:57,760 --> 00:47:59,760
'The Valley of Stones.


671
00:47:59,760 --> 00:48:03,600
'I've come here to see something
that Salvador has introduced


672
00:48:03,600 --> 00:48:05,720
'to the rest of Brazil
and the world.'


673
00:48:16,800 --> 00:48:19,800
'On the roof of one of the grander
houses in the favela,


674
00:48:19,800 --> 00:48:21,520
'they're practising a dance


675
00:48:21,520 --> 00:48:24,240
'that grew from a self-defensive
fighting style.


676
00:48:24,240 --> 00:48:28,480
'It's now the second biggest
participation sport in Salvador.


677
00:48:28,480 --> 00:48:31,000
'It's fast and fluent
and it's called capoeira.'


678
00:48:41,600 --> 00:48:45,600
'If you're really good at capoeira
you can become a master or Mestre,


679
00:48:45,600 --> 00:48:49,680
'and the trim, 66-year-old who's
playing this one-stringed berimbau


680
00:48:49,680 --> 00:48:50,840
'is very good at it.'


681
00:48:53,200 --> 00:48:55,160
'He's called Mestre Boa Gente.


682
00:48:55,160 --> 00:48:57,920
'Though he's lived in the Valley
of Stones all his life,


683
00:48:57,920 --> 00:49:01,000
'he's travelled the world
as a spokesman for his sport.'


684
00:49:10,120 --> 00:49:12,760
The movements that you
do in capoeira,


685
00:49:12,760 --> 00:49:16,840
where do the movements come from,
where did they originate?


686
00:49:16,840 --> 00:49:23,320
TRANSLATION: The capoeira movements
all come from Africa,


687
00:49:23,320 --> 00:49:25,560
from African culture.


688
00:49:25,560 --> 00:49:30,480
The moves are called jingas and were
brought by African slaves to Brazil.


689
00:49:34,280 --> 00:49:38,440
They also come from Candomble, which
is the first Brazilian religion.


690
00:49:41,480 --> 00:49:47,760
When people take on the spirit
of their gods, their orishas,


691
00:49:47,760 --> 00:49:51,320
they use their bodies
to express their orishas,


692
00:49:51,320 --> 00:49:55,200
so out of that are born the moves
you see in capoeira.


693
00:49:55,200 --> 00:49:56,720
Xango, ela faz isso.


694
00:49:58,120 --> 00:50:02,400
Entao, olha, quando voce vem
pra capoeira,


695
00:50:02,400 --> 00:50:04,760
voce ja ta bem flexivel.


696
00:50:04,760 --> 00:50:06,200
Entende, como voce.


697
00:50:06,200 --> 00:50:10,200
Voce ja ta... Eu to conversando
e voce ja ta ai...


698
00:50:10,200 --> 00:50:12,600
Isso ai, isso! E...


699
00:50:14,720 --> 00:50:16,080
Do you like dance?


700
00:50:16,080 --> 00:50:17,160
Dance? Yeah.


701
00:50:17,160 --> 00:50:18,240
Samba?


702
00:50:18,240 --> 00:50:20,280
I do my own version.


703
00:50:20,280 --> 00:50:22,960
Isso.


704
00:50:28,720 --> 00:50:30,720
LAUGHTER


705
00:50:30,720 --> 00:50:33,280
That's the Scottish bit!


706
00:50:33,280 --> 00:50:36,280
Muito legal. Cade a palma, galera?


707
00:50:39,640 --> 00:50:41,240
'That was the easy bit.


708
00:50:41,240 --> 00:50:44,840
'The Mestre now takes me across
the road to the radio station


709
00:50:44,840 --> 00:50:49,960
'he runs for a live, on-air grilling
on Valley of Stones Radio.'


710
00:50:49,960 --> 00:50:52,600
# Esperanca e fe


711
00:50:52,600 --> 00:50:55,600
# Mais o mundo nao e... #


712
00:50:55,600 --> 00:50:59,880
TRANSLATION: Michael, you're a very
famous man, not only in England


713
00:50:59,880 --> 00:51:03,680
but all over the world.
You're an actor, a presenter.


714
00:51:03,680 --> 00:51:06,720
Have you ever thought of going
into politics as a councillor,


715
00:51:06,720 --> 00:51:09,640
Member of Parliament
or maybe even President?


716
00:51:11,000 --> 00:51:13,280
We don't have a President! But...


717
00:51:13,280 --> 00:51:16,000
Suas fas votando em voce,
voce ta eleito.


718
00:51:16,000 --> 00:51:19,920
Maybe I could be Queen,
but that's taken already!


719
00:51:19,920 --> 00:51:24,200
TRANSLATION: What do you
think of gay marriage?


720
00:51:24,200 --> 00:51:26,600
It's a big topic here in Brazil.


721
00:51:26,600 --> 00:51:28,920
I am up for gay marriage.


722
00:51:28,920 --> 00:51:31,480
If people love each other,
look after each other,


723
00:51:31,480 --> 00:51:33,960
as long as they support each other


724
00:51:33,960 --> 00:51:37,120
it doesn't matter
what they do in bed.


725
00:51:37,120 --> 00:51:39,160
Olha ai, Elvis Presley, o.


726
00:51:41,440 --> 00:51:44,480
# It's now or never


727
00:51:44,480 --> 00:51:45,840
I hate this one.


728
00:51:45,840 --> 00:51:47,200
# Come hold me tight


729
00:51:47,200 --> 00:51:49,040
This is my least favourite
Elvis ever.


730
00:51:49,040 --> 00:51:51,440
# Kiss me, my darling... #


731
00:51:52,680 --> 00:51:58,000
'This definitely has to be one of my
more surreal radio moments.'


732
00:51:58,000 --> 00:52:03,880
# Tomorrow will be too late


733
00:52:03,880 --> 00:52:06,840
# It's now or never


734
00:52:08,000 --> 00:52:10,920
# My love can't wait. #


735
00:52:16,080 --> 00:52:19,760
'The Mestre has an endless,
irrepressible energy.


736
00:52:19,760 --> 00:52:23,320
'Fresh from his afternoon show,
he's out on the streets,


737
00:52:23,320 --> 00:52:26,880
'mobilising participants
for the evening's capoeira fest.'


738
00:52:42,520 --> 00:52:46,320
'The shanty buildings around,
the roar of a nearby highway,


739
00:52:46,320 --> 00:52:49,720
'and the smell of a stagnant stream
are all forgotten,


740
00:52:49,720 --> 00:52:53,240
'as the shining, sweating,
white-toothed smiling Mestre


741
00:52:53,240 --> 00:52:56,120
'infects everyone
with his enthusiasm.


742
00:52:56,120 --> 00:52:58,360
'His work is known across Brazil,


743
00:52:58,360 --> 00:53:01,880
'yet he still stays true to the
favela in which he grew up.'


744
00:53:06,640 --> 00:53:12,040
'Home for the remarkable Mestre Boa
Gente remains the Valley of Stones.'


745
00:53:30,960 --> 00:53:33,640
North and west of Salvador
is the Reconcavo,


746
00:53:33,640 --> 00:53:37,440
an area which borders
All Saints Bay.


747
00:53:37,440 --> 00:53:41,120
The towns I'm going to visit there,
Cachoeira and St Felix,


748
00:53:41,120 --> 00:53:44,280
grew rich from the produce
of fertile soils,


749
00:53:44,280 --> 00:53:46,960
watered by the many rivers
that drain into the bay.


750
00:53:49,600 --> 00:53:52,640
This is some of the most
productive land in the country.


751
00:53:52,640 --> 00:53:56,680
I pass sugar-cane plantations,
smaller than they once were,


752
00:53:56,680 --> 00:54:00,920
but still contributing
to a buoyant local economy.


753
00:54:00,920 --> 00:54:05,160
Where the river Paraguacu divides
Cachoeira from St Felix,


754
00:54:05,160 --> 00:54:07,320
I cross the bridge


755
00:54:07,320 --> 00:54:10,320
to find evidence of another
one-time source of wealth


756
00:54:10,320 --> 00:54:12,360
at the Danneman Cigar Factory.


757
00:54:12,360 --> 00:54:15,400
'Danneman's survived the decline
in the tobacco industry


758
00:54:15,400 --> 00:54:18,160
'by concentrating
on a high-end product.


759
00:54:18,160 --> 00:54:21,960
'It's currently run by
Dutchman Hans Leusen.'


760
00:54:21,960 --> 00:54:25,920
Is the old legend that it's rolled
on the thigh of the ladies


761
00:54:25,920 --> 00:54:28,120
who make the cigar,
has that any credibility?


762
00:54:29,400 --> 00:54:33,200
Credibility is always there,
but in the past,


763
00:54:33,200 --> 00:54:38,000
the girls were making the
wrap on leaves on the legs,


764
00:54:38,000 --> 00:54:40,720
but the cigars have never been
made on the legs.


765
00:54:40,720 --> 00:54:43,440
So it is not a question you can say


766
00:54:43,440 --> 00:54:46,400
"There is Maria or there is
Matilda". That's not true.


767
00:54:46,400 --> 00:54:48,960
Yes? Like you can feel. No, no.


768
00:54:48,960 --> 00:54:50,800
There's a story.


769
00:54:52,520 --> 00:54:56,680
Can you tell me a little bit about
how Bahia and the north-east


770
00:54:56,680 --> 00:54:58,320
is seen by the rest of Brazil?


771
00:54:58,320 --> 00:55:00,280
They always say bad things
about the north,


772
00:55:00,280 --> 00:55:01,600
especially the north-east.


773
00:55:01,600 --> 00:55:04,440
But it is not true,
the people work hard,


774
00:55:04,440 --> 00:55:08,640
but they have a way of life
based on this tropical sun, yes?


775
00:55:08,640 --> 00:55:11,520
So if you can't do it today,
you do it tomorrow.


776
00:55:11,520 --> 00:55:15,360
In Sao Paulo, you have to run,
you have to do it today,


777
00:55:15,360 --> 00:55:19,000
so there is a big difference
between the south and the north,


778
00:55:19,000 --> 00:55:24,440
but I prefer the north, where people
still understand how is life,


779
00:55:24,440 --> 00:55:27,160
because here on Wednesday
you start to talk about


780
00:55:27,160 --> 00:55:30,240
how you are going to spend
your weekend, yes?


781
00:55:45,040 --> 00:55:47,840
There was a time when the wealth
of Salvador depended on


782
00:55:47,840 --> 00:55:50,000
the sailing ships
that carried the goods


783
00:55:50,000 --> 00:55:52,120
down from its rich hinterland.


784
00:55:52,120 --> 00:55:55,120
The boats were called Saveiros.


785
00:55:55,120 --> 00:55:58,200
In the 1950s, there were thousands
of them working the bay.


786
00:55:58,200 --> 00:56:00,520
Now there's only a
precious handful left,


787
00:56:00,520 --> 00:56:02,120
and I'm on one of them.


788
00:56:03,400 --> 00:56:05,800
The two men who are my fellow
crew members today are,


789
00:56:05,800 --> 00:56:07,480
in their own way,


790
00:56:07,480 --> 00:56:10,920
passionate about preserving
the last of the Saveiros.


791
00:56:10,920 --> 00:56:14,320
One is a trim, dapper and
successful local artist


792
00:56:14,320 --> 00:56:16,280
called Bel Borba.


793
00:56:16,280 --> 00:56:20,320
His larger-than-life companion
is Malaca, an engineer by trade.


794
00:56:20,320 --> 00:56:23,200
If the Brazilians have a
word for extrovert,


795
00:56:23,200 --> 00:56:25,520
Malaca would be its embodiment.


796
00:56:25,520 --> 00:56:29,120
'But I'm sure they don't.
Brazilian means extrovert.'


797
00:56:29,120 --> 00:56:32,800
How important do you think it is
to save these boats


798
00:56:32,800 --> 00:56:35,280
and why is it important?


799
00:56:35,280 --> 00:56:37,440
HE ASKS QUESTION IN PORTUGUESE


800
00:56:38,720 --> 00:56:44,200
TRANSLATION: Because it's
400 years of history.


801
00:56:44,200 --> 00:56:46,880
Bahia is summed up in these boats.


802
00:56:46,880 --> 00:56:49,360
The Saveiro was crucial,
not just the boat


803
00:56:49,360 --> 00:56:51,680
but the way of life it represented.


804
00:56:53,120 --> 00:56:54,800
The handcrafts, the carpenters,


805
00:56:54,800 --> 00:56:58,520
there's a whole working
history around the Saveiro.


806
00:56:58,520 --> 00:57:02,760
It's pure culture,
400 years of history and beauty.


807
00:57:04,640 --> 00:57:07,600
'They seem to have their priorities
right, these two.


808
00:57:07,600 --> 00:57:09,360
'Is this a Bahian thing?'


809
00:57:09,360 --> 00:57:12,360
People from Rio and all that, I've
heard them say Bahians are lazy.


810
00:57:12,360 --> 00:57:14,200
What do you think about that?


811
00:57:17,760 --> 00:57:23,000
TRANSLATION: No, we're not,
we just work in our own way.


812
00:57:23,000 --> 00:57:27,360
Bahians are very caring -
we're just not stressed out.


813
00:57:27,360 --> 00:57:31,240
How can you be stressed out with all
this natural beauty around you?


814
00:57:31,240 --> 00:57:34,800
We don't know the meaning
of the word stress.


815
00:57:34,800 --> 00:57:37,160
'Are they jealous of people
from Rio?'


816
00:57:37,160 --> 00:57:39,920
HE SPEAKS PORTUGUESE


817
00:57:46,040 --> 00:57:47,840
This is an old joke.


818
00:57:47,840 --> 00:57:50,920
The carioca invites you
to have lunch at his house,


819
00:57:50,920 --> 00:57:52,560
but don't give you the address.


820
00:57:52,560 --> 00:57:54,120
Oh, right!


821
00:57:58,200 --> 00:58:01,400
Next time, I'll be heading inland,
to a very different world.


822
00:58:01,400 --> 00:58:03,960
A world before booming Brazil.


823
00:58:03,960 --> 00:58:06,440
Indeed, a world before there
was a Brazil at all.


824
00:58:08,080 --> 00:58:11,120
I'll be exploring
the wonders of Amazonia.


825
00:58:13,400 --> 00:58:15,680
It's a region which is still
home to remote tribes,


826
00:58:15,680 --> 00:58:19,760
as well as sophisticated
city dwellers.


827
00:58:19,760 --> 00:58:22,640
And I'll be finding out how the
demands of modern Brazil


828
00:58:22,640 --> 00:58:25,480
are affecting the lives of those
living in the largest


829
00:58:25,480 --> 00:58:27,480
rainforest in the world.


830
00:58:51,920 --> 00:58:54,960
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