1
00:00:40,927 --> 00:00:45,637
Zamboanga, on the southern tip
of the Philippines, is difficult to leave.

2
00:00:46,407 --> 00:00:48,796
This is partly because it has charm

3
00:00:48,967 --> 00:00:53,404
and partly because the sailing schedules
are completely unreliable.

4
00:00:54,047 --> 00:00:59,519
After several days of delay, we are booked
aboard the Danica Joy, bound for Borneo.

5
00:01:03,927 --> 00:01:09,604
Her bigger sister ship should do this run, but
she's laid up after a fire in the engine room.

6
00:01:09,767 --> 00:01:12,156
Still, beggars can't be choosers.

7
00:01:12,327 --> 00:01:16,923
Political tension between the Philippines
and Malaysia meant until a year ago

8
00:01:17,087 --> 00:01:21,080
there was no passenger service
across these seas at all.

9
00:01:23,607 --> 00:01:29,318
I'm sorry to be leaving Zamboanga - not just
because it's a very friendly, hospitable city,

10
00:01:29,487 --> 00:01:34,686
but because I'm leaving it via the Sulu Sea,
which has a fearsome reputation.

11
00:01:34,847 --> 00:01:39,557
The Sulu Sea is a frontier not just between
the Philippines and Malaysia,

12
00:01:39,727 --> 00:01:42,287
but between Christians and Muslims.

13
00:01:42,447 --> 00:01:46,838
They've been fighting over this area
for 400 years and it's still going on.

14
00:01:47,007 --> 00:01:51,762
In the paper yesterday, there were three incidents
provoked by Muslim-Christian tension.

15
00:01:51,927 --> 00:01:57,638
Add its reputation for piracy and smuggling
and... actually, I'm quite looking forward to it!

16
00:02:05,687 --> 00:02:08,520
There are no real grounds for my optimism.

17
00:02:08,687 --> 00:02:12,123
This is the dangerous end of the Philippines.

18
00:02:12,287 --> 00:02:17,884
Islamic terrorists are active. Foreigners are
warned to stay clear of the offshore islands.

19
00:02:18,047 --> 00:02:20,117
There we are. I just?

20
00:02:20,287 --> 00:02:23,165
I'm watched every inch of the way on board.

21
00:02:23,327 --> 00:02:26,922
Sure, yeah. Passenger, traveller. Moving on.

22
00:02:30,287 --> 00:02:31,879
Thank you.

23
00:02:42,207 --> 00:02:45,358
The head of the shipping line greets me.

24
00:02:45,527 --> 00:02:47,324
You're the boss!

25
00:02:47,487 --> 00:02:50,240
Is it me or is his smile a little nervous?

26
00:02:50,407 --> 00:02:53,126
- Full ship, is it?
- Yeah, yeah.

27
00:02:54,247 --> 00:02:57,876
The Filipinos love families
and they love farewells.

28
00:02:58,047 --> 00:03:03,201
A departure is never something to be
taken for granted. It's always an event.

29
00:03:18,687 --> 00:03:23,397
Amazingly enough, some of the other ferries
make our old tub look smart.

30
00:03:25,887 --> 00:03:29,357
It is, as the owner confirmed, a very full ship.

31
00:03:32,847 --> 00:03:37,443
I find myself a peaceful spot,
complete with local alarm clock.

32
00:03:37,607 --> 00:03:40,075
(COCK CROWS)

33
00:03:41,447 --> 00:03:45,645
Most of my human fellow passengers
are Filipinos going abroad

34
00:03:45,807 --> 00:03:49,277
to look for jobs not available
in the country they're leaving.

35
00:03:50,727 --> 00:03:56,518
0n the horizon, I can make out the islands
that travellers are warned to steer clear of.

36
00:03:57,887 --> 00:04:00,685
They run in a line across the Sulu Sea.

37
00:04:00,847 --> 00:04:05,682
They provide shelter for pirates and resistance
groups and mark our south-western course

38
00:04:05,847 --> 00:04:10,716
to Sandakan in the state of Sabah
on the island of Borneo.

39
00:04:13,967 --> 00:04:18,563
The Danica Joy was originally built
for placid inland waters.

40
00:04:19,567 --> 00:04:25,039
As the wind builds up on the open sea,
she begins to roll and pitch like a drunk.

41
00:04:25,887 --> 00:04:27,878
(RAPID GUNFIRE ON TV)

42
00:04:30,327 --> 00:04:36,163
There isn't a lot you can do to take your mind
off it - except watching violent kung fu videos

43
00:04:36,327 --> 00:04:38,716
or curling up and trying to sleep.

44
00:04:38,887 --> 00:04:42,084
(RAPID GUNFIRE ON TV)

45
00:04:44,447 --> 00:04:50,795
Being somewhat cowardly, I make for the bridge
to reassure myself that we're in good hands.

46
00:04:50,967 --> 00:04:57,156
Is it OK if I come in? Just to have a look
and see where we're going, how fast we're going.

47
00:04:57,327 --> 00:05:00,239
When we're going to get there.

48
00:05:00,407 --> 00:05:04,798
Indications are not promising.
There's not a uniform to be seen.

49
00:05:05,727 --> 00:05:07,718
I ask some searching questions.

50
00:05:08,487 --> 00:05:12,526
- So we're going...
- Two five-zero.

51
00:05:12,687 --> 00:05:14,996
- Course five-zero.
- Right.

52
00:05:15,167 --> 00:05:18,557
- This ship, I notice these are all in Japanese.
- Yes.

53
00:05:18,727 --> 00:05:22,959
- It's a Japanese ship. Is it easy to steer?
- It's easy, it's easy.

54
00:05:25,047 --> 00:05:29,757
You seem awfully young.
Excuse my asking. How old are you?

55
00:05:29,927 --> 00:05:32,566
I'm 21. Only apprentice.

56
00:05:32,727 --> 00:05:34,922
- Apprentice.
- Apprentice, apprentice.

57
00:05:35,087 --> 00:05:37,647
Apprentice to who? Who's in charge?

58
00:05:37,807 --> 00:05:42,164
- That's our chief here.
- Ah, you're the chief officer.

59
00:05:42,327 --> 00:05:45,160
- So you're learning.
- Yeah, yeah.

60
00:05:45,327 --> 00:05:48,080
When will you... How's he getting on?

61
00:05:48,887 --> 00:05:51,606
He has been to school three years.

62
00:05:51,767 --> 00:05:56,045
He will be on board one year to finish.
It's four years' course.

63
00:06:02,567 --> 00:06:04,558
Night falls.

64
00:06:06,447 --> 00:06:09,837
Fortunately, there's no queue for the bathroom.

65
00:06:14,847 --> 00:06:16,246
(GUNSHOT ON TV)

66
00:06:16,407 --> 00:06:20,195
Then it's either more video nasties or bed.

67
00:06:20,367 --> 00:06:23,165
That is, if I can find it.

68
00:06:31,047 --> 00:06:34,642
Next morning, the good news.
My first sight of Borneo.

69
00:06:44,887 --> 00:06:48,880
The skyline of Sandakan exudes
an air of prosperity

70
00:06:49,047 --> 00:06:51,766
we never saw in Zamboanga.

71
00:06:53,167 --> 00:06:55,761
We take a bus south across the island,

72
00:06:55,927 --> 00:06:59,681
but it's the monsoon season
and progress is slow.

73
00:07:03,247 --> 00:07:05,442
Walking isn't any easier.

74
00:07:05,607 --> 00:07:10,601
- (WOMAN) You are tall, so at least...
- Not tall enough. It's going into my boots!

75
00:07:10,767 --> 00:07:13,565
- I'm concerned about snakes...
- (MICHAEL) What?

76
00:07:13,727 --> 00:07:19,836
Snakes, because normally the ground-dwellers,
like snakes, scorpions and so on,

77
00:07:20,007 --> 00:07:22,726
they would all be floating up.

78
00:07:22,887 --> 00:07:26,675
Keep your fingers crossed
that we don't come across any of them.

79
00:07:26,847 --> 00:07:29,122
(MICHAEL) I'll keep everything crossed!

80
00:07:30,327 --> 00:07:34,639
- How long has it been raining for? 24 hours.
- (WOMAN) Almost.

81
00:07:34,807 --> 00:07:40,439
This is the pathway to one of the world's
very few orang-utan rehabilitation centres.

82
00:07:45,007 --> 00:07:47,726
When the rainforest was plundered for timber,

83
00:07:47,887 --> 00:07:53,280
many of these orang-utan were taken out
of the forest and sold as domestic pets.

84
00:07:57,407 --> 00:08:00,604
- A much older female.
- Slightly different technique.

85
00:08:00,767 --> 00:08:02,758
Different technique.

86
00:08:02,927 --> 00:08:04,918
They're now an endangered species.

87
00:08:05,087 --> 00:08:09,683
This centre has been slowly teaching
tame animals to be wild again.

88
00:08:11,367 --> 00:08:13,801
(WOMAN) She's pregnant.

89
00:08:14,567 --> 00:08:18,606
You can see the genital swell.

90
00:08:18,767 --> 00:08:22,362
That's the only way to detect.

91
00:08:23,447 --> 00:08:26,086
So probably from a wild male.

92
00:08:26,687 --> 00:08:29,884
- (MICHAEL) So that's good news for you.
- It's good news.

93
00:08:30,047 --> 00:08:33,403
(WOMAN) I think I'm going to be
a grandmother now!

94
00:08:34,087 --> 00:08:39,400
- What are they eating?
- Bananas. I think that's their normal menu.

95
00:08:39,567 --> 00:08:44,163
- How long is the gestation period?
- Eight and a half to nine months.

96
00:08:44,327 --> 00:08:46,716
- Like a human.
- Almost like a human.

97
00:08:46,887 --> 00:08:51,756
As Sylvia, my guide, tells me,
orang-utans normally live high in the trees.

98
00:08:51,927 --> 00:08:55,124
This rope that leads
to their man-made feeding platform

99
00:08:55,287 --> 00:08:58,404
is the orang-utan equivalent of a wheelchair.

100
00:08:59,007 --> 00:09:04,479
(SYLVIA) Most have been used to humans.
To take that away from them is the difficult part.

101
00:09:04,647 --> 00:09:09,641
What the centre is trying to do here
is very different from what the zoo does.

102
00:09:09,807 --> 00:09:15,803
The zoo sort of like... Wild animals are
made to be tame, but the centre here...

103
00:09:15,967 --> 00:09:18,083
- In reverse.
- It's the reverse.

104
00:09:18,247 --> 00:09:22,206
- That's much more difficult.
- Are they still coming in from people?

105
00:09:22,367 --> 00:09:29,125
Right now, it's not so much people keeping them
as pets, but they come from disturbed areas.

106
00:09:29,287 --> 00:09:32,199
- Land that's going to be cleared or?
- Yes.

107
00:09:32,367 --> 00:09:35,598
When they go,
do you see where they're going to?

108
00:09:35,767 --> 00:09:41,763
No. It stops when an individual
has been reintroduced. Our job stops.

109
00:09:42,647 --> 00:09:48,802
As long as the centre survives, the orang-utans
and this stretch of rainforest are safe.

110
00:09:52,287 --> 00:09:55,996
Borneo is our stepping stone
between the Philippines and Java.

111
00:09:56,167 --> 00:10:00,558
It's divided between three countries -
Indonesia has the south and east,

112
00:10:00,727 --> 00:10:04,720
Malaysia, the north and west,
which it shares with Brunei.

113
00:10:04,887 --> 00:10:11,520
The jewel of the Malaysian west coast
is the city of Kuching, capital of Sarawak.

114
00:10:18,687 --> 00:10:21,155
Kuching has a quietly affluent air.

115
00:10:21,327 --> 00:10:23,841
It's an Asian-Pacific crossroads,

116
00:10:24,007 --> 00:10:29,798
bringing together Chinese, Indians, Malays
and local tribes in apparent harmony.

117
00:10:33,527 --> 00:10:36,837
It was run by the British for over 100 years.

118
00:10:37,007 --> 00:10:42,684
It was they who created the racial mix
still evident in quite unusual ways.

119
00:10:45,967 --> 00:10:49,357
Like this Indian healer with a great cabaret act.

120
00:10:53,767 --> 00:10:55,758
Don't try this at home.

121
00:11:08,727 --> 00:11:14,518
A short walk from the bazaars, I come across
a passable imitation of Henley Regatta.

122
00:11:17,607 --> 00:11:20,405
That is until I look a little more closely.

123
00:11:20,567 --> 00:11:23,798
These are descendants of the Dayak warriors,

124
00:11:23,967 --> 00:11:30,156
whose war canoes terrorised the coast until
the British got here and told them about regattas.

125
00:11:30,327 --> 00:11:34,400
(DRUMS BEATING)

126
00:11:39,007 --> 00:11:42,397
For the British, it was quite a successful move.

127
00:11:42,567 --> 00:11:45,604
I can't see these people terrorising anybody.

128
00:11:57,487 --> 00:12:03,437
It wasn't the British government which created
all this, but a family called Brooke from Bath.

129
00:12:03,607 --> 00:12:06,917
In 1841, they bought Sarawak off a local sultan

130
00:12:07,087 --> 00:12:11,319
and ran it until the Japanese invaded
100 years later.

131
00:12:13,407 --> 00:12:17,116
Stephen Yong, a former minister,
shows me round the Istana,

132
00:12:17,287 --> 00:12:21,075
official residence of the family
who built Somerset on the Sarawak River

133
00:12:21,247 --> 00:12:25,035
and called themselves the White Rajahs.

134
00:12:27,287 --> 00:12:32,315
From here Charles Brooke,
the second rajah, ruled for 50 years.

135
00:12:35,007 --> 00:12:42,004
(STEPHEN) He regarded all his subjects as his
children. He never encouraged higher education.

136
00:12:42,167 --> 00:12:45,682
He had the idea of "ignorance is bliss".

137
00:12:45,847 --> 00:12:48,645
He drew the line at head-hunting, didn't he?

138
00:12:48,807 --> 00:12:52,277
Head-hunting is one of the crimes
which the rajah introduced,

139
00:12:52,447 --> 00:12:55,166
much against the tradition of the Ibans.

140
00:12:55,327 --> 00:13:01,926
An Iban was taught that head-hunting
was one of their... ways of life.

141
00:13:02,087 --> 00:13:05,762
- Um... but...
- What was the penalty for head-hunting?

142
00:13:05,927 --> 00:13:08,646
Head-hunters normally would be executed.

143
00:13:08,807 --> 00:13:10,798
- Beheaded, probably!
- Yes.

144
00:13:12,247 --> 00:13:17,401
Head-hunters would've lost their heads
at Fort Margherita, named after Brooke's wife.

145
00:13:17,567 --> 00:13:24,120
The Brookes' legacy lies in buildings like this,
another of the great post offices of the world.

146
00:13:24,287 --> 00:13:26,278
0r these law courts.

147
00:13:26,447 --> 00:13:31,919
And perhaps, most poignantly, in the single
surviving public likeness of Rajah Brooke,

148
00:13:32,087 --> 00:13:35,796
dressed in the style of the people
he ruled for so long.

149
00:13:44,647 --> 00:13:50,483
It's quite difficult to get round Borneo by road,
largely because they tend not to exist.

150
00:13:50,647 --> 00:13:54,720
The pattern of life here still revolves
around the rivers

151
00:13:54,887 --> 00:13:57,685
which run from the interior down to the ports.

152
00:13:57,847 --> 00:14:03,046
I'm doing it the other way round - going from
Kuching upriver towards the mountains,

153
00:14:03,207 --> 00:14:07,200
to spend a few days with the Iban people
at one of their longhouses,

154
00:14:07,367 --> 00:14:11,645
which certainly, for me,
is a journey into the unknown.

155
00:14:23,767 --> 00:14:30,764
It'll take the best part of a day to make our way
upriver almost as far as the Indonesian border.

156
00:14:39,727 --> 00:14:42,685
As the rainforest closes in to become jungle,

157
00:14:42,847 --> 00:14:46,044
the rivers grow narrower and shallower.

158
00:14:46,207 --> 00:14:50,246
We're on the edge of the great,
inhospitable heart of Borneo,

159
00:14:50,407 --> 00:14:53,285
one of the secret places of the world.

160
00:15:04,087 --> 00:15:09,764
Without the help of the local people, it would
be hard to find our way in or out of here.

161
00:15:23,687 --> 00:15:29,683
The Iban live on the rivers, which they navigate
with skill and prodigious physical effort.

162
00:15:31,567 --> 00:15:34,877
Nevertheless, this is as far upstream
as we can go.

163
00:15:35,727 --> 00:15:39,276
We've reached the village of Nanga Sumpa.

164
00:15:51,967 --> 00:15:57,325
The centre of the community and heart
of their nomadic culture is the longhouse.

165
00:15:57,487 --> 00:16:02,880
This one has been here all of 12 years -
making it almost an ancient monument.

166
00:16:11,207 --> 00:16:15,644
It's a 28-door longhouse,
meaning 28 families share it.

167
00:16:21,607 --> 00:16:27,204
Money and food are not shared, but the large
open spaces such as this are communal.

168
00:16:39,207 --> 00:16:42,404
Many of the elders are profusely decorated.

169
00:16:42,567 --> 00:16:44,876
Hello. Morning.

170
00:16:45,047 --> 00:16:47,845
Just admiring your tattoos.

171
00:16:49,487 --> 00:16:50,966
Emong.

172
00:16:51,127 --> 00:16:57,202
I was just... I was just admiring these.
What are they meant to be, first of all?

173
00:16:57,367 --> 00:17:00,677
(TRANSLATES)

174
00:17:00,847 --> 00:17:03,759
(EMONG) This is... creeper.

175
00:17:03,927 --> 00:17:06,487
(MICHAEL) Yeah, creeper. How would it be done?

176
00:17:06,647 --> 00:17:10,606
(THEY SPEAK IBAN)

177
00:17:10,767 --> 00:17:13,998
(EMONG) How do you call it? Soot?
(MICHAEL) Soot.

178
00:17:14,167 --> 00:17:16,556
They mix it with...

179
00:17:16,727 --> 00:17:18,718
(SPEAKS IBAN)

180
00:17:18,887 --> 00:17:25,281
They mix it with sugar-cane juice
and then they use a pin to get it in there.

181
00:17:25,447 --> 00:17:27,597
(MICHAEL) They just jab it in.

182
00:17:27,767 --> 00:17:30,327
- Does it hurt?
- (TRANSLATES)

183
00:17:30,487 --> 00:17:33,285
- (MAN ANSWERS)
- Yes, it's quite painful.

184
00:17:33,447 --> 00:17:36,803
I got that. Hurt like hell, he said.

185
00:17:36,967 --> 00:17:39,083
- Have you got any?
- I don't.

186
00:17:39,247 --> 00:17:41,442
Just on your T-shirt.

187
00:17:41,607 --> 00:17:44,041
It's not the same. Weed.

188
00:17:45,967 --> 00:17:49,755
The Iban are not isolated.
The young men are encouraged to travel.

189
00:17:49,927 --> 00:17:54,125
These woven blankets are quite likely
to end up in Los Angeles or London.

190
00:18:08,487 --> 00:18:14,198
There's little mistrust of the outside world.
They're curious about our curiosity.

191
00:18:16,647 --> 00:18:22,836
You can get your finger through it. It's always
useful, to get your finger through your ear.

192
00:18:25,767 --> 00:18:29,362
Hope I live to be as old as you and look as well.

193
00:18:36,527 --> 00:18:42,397
I asked the headman and another elder, both
in their 80s, about the issue of head-hunting.

194
00:18:42,567 --> 00:18:48,563
What was the importance of having a head?
What was the value of the head?

195
00:18:48,727 --> 00:18:53,084
(THEY SPEAK IBAN)

196
00:18:56,527 --> 00:18:58,518
They said, not really.

197
00:18:58,687 --> 00:19:03,477
It's just chopping people's head,
take it back, and smoke the head

198
00:19:03,647 --> 00:19:07,435
and keep it to show the whole people
how brave they are.

199
00:19:07,607 --> 00:19:10,917
- So it's just how many people you can clobber?
- Yeah.

200
00:19:11,087 --> 00:19:15,080
And after that,
they have to celebrate Kenyalang festival,

201
00:19:15,247 --> 00:19:18,956
which means hornbilll festival,
to ask for a longer life.

202
00:19:19,127 --> 00:19:25,157
They ask for longer life from God, or else
they have a short life, if you don't celebrate.

203
00:19:25,327 --> 00:19:28,399
They pray for the people
whose heads they've chopped off?

204
00:19:28,567 --> 00:19:33,482
- Yeah.
- (MAN SPEAKS IBAN)

205
00:19:37,807 --> 00:19:41,516
He said today is very good.
Today there is no more fighting.

206
00:19:41,687 --> 00:19:43,882
So he said that is very good.

207
00:19:45,927 --> 00:19:50,921
The other thing that's very good
is that I've discovered the bathroom.

208
00:20:07,887 --> 00:20:11,118
There are one or two fewer pigs around
this morning.

209
00:20:14,287 --> 00:20:16,482
There is to be a feast.

210
00:20:16,647 --> 00:20:20,845
It's to be held in honour of the visit
of a famous government minister.

211
00:20:21,007 --> 00:20:23,202
I'm looking forward to seeing him.

212
00:20:23,367 --> 00:20:26,677
If he doesn't come, then I,
as second most important visitor,

213
00:20:26,847 --> 00:20:29,839
have been asked to kill the ceremonial pig.

214
00:20:39,807 --> 00:20:44,278
0n another fire, rice is pressure-cooked
inside branches of bamboo.

215
00:20:49,287 --> 00:20:54,281
I breathe a huge sigh of relief
when the top man's canoe is at last sighted.

216
00:21:01,407 --> 00:21:05,400
The top man is James Masing,
the minister of tourism.

217
00:21:05,567 --> 00:21:08,957
He's the first Iban ever to hold such a high office.

218
00:21:15,687 --> 00:21:17,678
Some politicians have to kiss babies,

219
00:21:17,847 --> 00:21:23,797
but if you want to win votes in Sarawak,
a passing knowledge of butchery is more useful.

220
00:21:23,967 --> 00:21:29,997
After a word with the spin doctor, the minister
prepares to do what a minister has to do.

221
00:21:34,607 --> 00:21:37,724
(PIG SQUEALS)

222
00:21:37,887 --> 00:21:41,277
Between ceremonial duties,
he seems happy to talk.

223
00:21:41,447 --> 00:21:46,840
You were born and brought up in a longhouse.
How similar was it to this one here?

224
00:21:47,007 --> 00:21:50,397
What are your memories of longhouse life?

225
00:21:50,567 --> 00:21:55,800
Yeah, I was born in a longhouse
in another part of Sarawak.

226
00:21:57,047 --> 00:22:01,757
My memories are very good.
I have very fond memories of my childhood.

227
00:22:01,927 --> 00:22:06,364
I spent the first six years
actually living in a longhouse.

228
00:22:06,527 --> 00:22:08,995
After that, I went to boarding school.

229
00:22:10,087 --> 00:22:13,204
I think this longhouse we are looking into now

230
00:22:13,367 --> 00:22:17,565
is one of the most traditional longhouses
that you can get in Sarawak.

231
00:22:17,727 --> 00:22:20,958
My feeling is that not many of them are left.

232
00:22:21,607 --> 00:22:25,395
The longhouse structures are still there
throughout Sarawak,

233
00:22:25,567 --> 00:22:30,561
but the design's slightly different
and the wood they use is slightly different.

234
00:22:30,727 --> 00:22:34,003
A more modern design,
but still the longhouse structure.

235
00:22:34,167 --> 00:22:38,160
So what you're seeing now
is one of the very few left.

236
00:22:38,327 --> 00:22:41,000
(MICHAEL) What are the religious beliefs?

237
00:22:41,527 --> 00:22:46,840
The Iban - people call them animist.
They practise animism.

238
00:22:47,007 --> 00:22:50,317
They believe that every living thing has spirit.

239
00:22:50,487 --> 00:22:54,400
Animals have spirit, trees have spirit,
the rivers have spirit.

240
00:22:54,567 --> 00:22:59,197
So that because of that,
before you clear a farm, for instance,

241
00:22:59,367 --> 00:23:04,680
you do an offering to pacify whatever spirit
there is. So that is an Iban belief.

242
00:23:06,807 --> 00:23:12,837
(MICHAEL) The passing of a white cockerel
back and forth is believed to pacify the spirits.

243
00:23:13,007 --> 00:23:18,001
So before the eating and drinking can begin,
the minister must do the honours.

244
00:23:18,167 --> 00:23:21,762
(CHANTS IN IBAN)

245
00:23:22,807 --> 00:23:26,959
To be honest, the drinking has already started -
around breakfast time.

246
00:23:32,207 --> 00:23:35,916
The Iban love contests -
like this hard, fast drumming round

247
00:23:36,087 --> 00:23:39,397
in which the first one to lose the beat is out.

248
00:23:51,607 --> 00:23:55,566
In fact, Iban hospitality itself is a contest.

249
00:23:55,727 --> 00:24:00,278
It's the host's duty to provide far more
food and drink than the guests need.

250
00:24:00,447 --> 00:24:02,836
(EXCITED CHATTER)

251
00:24:04,847 --> 00:24:08,920
I've seen this being prepared lovingly
all day long. Thank you.

252
00:24:09,087 --> 00:24:13,558
And it's the duty of the guests
to polish it all off without falling over.

253
00:24:17,287 --> 00:24:19,278
And a little bit of fish.

254
00:24:24,087 --> 00:24:26,282
Yeah, it is good.

255
00:24:29,727 --> 00:24:31,285
Thank you.

256
00:24:33,367 --> 00:24:36,484
There's some bits there. Some choice bits.

257
00:24:38,527 --> 00:24:39,846
Like some?

258
00:24:40,927 --> 00:24:43,964
Everything is done
in a most egalitarian atmosphere.

259
00:24:44,127 --> 00:24:49,121
In Iban society, everyone, whatever
their rank or status, sits down together.

260
00:24:49,287 --> 00:24:51,243
(METALLIC DRUMMING)

261
00:25:20,807 --> 00:25:26,279
I wonder what sort of place there will be
for this pleasure-loving, unauthoritarian people

262
00:25:26,447 --> 00:25:30,326
in the stern, purposeful,
industrialised new Malaysia.

263
00:25:39,047 --> 00:25:45,043
600 miles due south of Borneo, I'm across
the equator and into the southern hemisphere.

264
00:25:46,407 --> 00:25:49,717
Java is one of a chain of Indonesian islands.

265
00:25:49,887 --> 00:25:54,881
I hope to find a sailing ship
to take me through them and on to Australia.

266
00:26:01,407 --> 00:26:04,877
I'm driving across Java
in the company of Eko Binarso,

267
00:26:05,047 --> 00:26:07,038
a trekking and mountain guide.

268
00:26:08,007 --> 00:26:13,525
It's the start of Ramadan,
the Muslim month of fasting and self-restraint.

269
00:26:13,687 --> 00:26:20,126
Jakarta, largest city in the southern hemisphere,
is hot, wet and quiet.

270
00:26:23,047 --> 00:26:28,167
0ur plan is to drive the length of the island
to the port of Surabaya.

271
00:26:30,207 --> 00:26:35,565
The road soon winds up into foothills and
as cool and moderate a climate as back home.

272
00:26:35,727 --> 00:26:38,321
In fact, I'm dying for a cuppa.

273
00:26:38,487 --> 00:26:40,682
Eko says he knows just the place.

274
00:26:41,487 --> 00:26:44,285
This is the Gunung Mas tea plantation.

275
00:26:53,487 --> 00:26:55,079
Hello.

276
00:26:55,887 --> 00:26:58,720
- After you!
- Sorry. Hello.

277
00:26:58,887 --> 00:27:03,881
Michael. Can you tell me what's going on here?
These are obviously the teas.

278
00:27:04,047 --> 00:27:08,120
- When were they picked?
- This is the tea produced today.

279
00:27:08,287 --> 00:27:12,997
- This is to test the quality.
- They're being tested for quality.

280
00:27:13,167 --> 00:27:16,159
How can you tell a good-quality tea?

281
00:27:16,327 --> 00:27:21,447
The good quality, for example...
We test the appearance.

282
00:27:21,607 --> 00:27:24,804
- There is the particle. Is it clean or not?
- Particles.

283
00:27:24,967 --> 00:27:26,958
- Size of particle.
- Yeah.

284
00:27:27,127 --> 00:27:30,119
Second, we test the smell.

285
00:27:30,287 --> 00:27:34,326
What do you do with these?
Do you pour hot water through them?

286
00:27:34,487 --> 00:27:37,479
For the testing, water... This is water from here.

287
00:27:37,647 --> 00:27:41,435
Oh, I see, yeah. Can I have a little sniff? Yeah.

288
00:27:41,607 --> 00:27:46,635
The smell. And the good tea smells... this.
Um... the same.

289
00:27:46,807 --> 00:27:51,597
- What's a good smell?
- Good smell. The good tea is the good smell.

290
00:27:51,767 --> 00:27:55,203
- Is it strong? Is that what you're looking for?
- Yeah, strong.

291
00:27:55,367 --> 00:28:02,000
- And then the taste. We taste the tea.
- Can I try and taste some myself?

292
00:28:02,167 --> 00:28:05,716
- So which should I taste? Which is a good one?
- Good one.

293
00:28:05,887 --> 00:28:09,926
This one here?
Just take a little bit, rather like soup.

294
00:28:11,247 --> 00:28:14,444
(MAN SLURPS) You must shoot.

295
00:28:15,687 --> 00:28:17,166
(MICHAEL SLURPS)

296
00:28:17,967 --> 00:28:20,527
(MICHEL) Try a bit more.

297
00:28:20,687 --> 00:28:22,484
(MICHAEL SLURPS)

298
00:28:22,647 --> 00:28:24,638
(MAN) Yeah, that's good.

299
00:28:24,807 --> 00:28:28,117
Oops. I've swallowed it! Lovely cup of tea.

300
00:28:28,287 --> 00:28:32,838
(MALE GR0UP) # I love coffee, I love tea

301
00:28:33,007 --> 00:28:35,396
# I love a java jive... #

302
00:28:35,567 --> 00:28:41,881
The tea pickers look serene - effortlessly
bored with the job. In fact, they're experts.

303
00:28:42,047 --> 00:28:46,484
# A cuppa, cuppa, cuppa, cuppa, cuppa

304
00:28:46,647 --> 00:28:51,482
# I love java, sweet and hot

305
00:28:51,647 --> 00:28:55,845
# 0ops, Mr Moto, I'm a coffee pot

306
00:28:56,007 --> 00:29:00,478
# Shoot me the pot and I'll pour me a shot

307
00:29:00,647 --> 00:29:03,844
# A cuppa, cuppa, cuppa, cuppa, cuppa #

308
00:29:04,007 --> 00:29:07,044
It looks easy enough, but it is quite a skill.

309
00:29:07,207 --> 00:29:11,758
You've got to get these little top bits.
I've noticed the way they're doing it.

310
00:29:11,927 --> 00:29:14,760
Anything lower down doesn't taste very nice.

311
00:29:14,927 --> 00:29:18,886
These little succulent tips
are the ones you have to get.

312
00:29:23,087 --> 00:29:27,285
Custom-made shears - very nice.
I don't think you can get these at home.

313
00:29:27,447 --> 00:29:30,245
They have to be bought here in Java.

314
00:29:32,087 --> 00:29:36,285
And I presume
the more little succulent tips you get...

315
00:29:37,727 --> 00:29:39,797
...the more you get paid.

316
00:29:39,967 --> 00:29:43,755
Do you get a bonus for, you know,
getting the best?

317
00:29:43,927 --> 00:29:47,636
- (WOMAN) Yes.
- Yes? Good. Well, I'll stay here a while, then.

318
00:29:47,807 --> 00:29:49,763
There's one.

319
00:29:49,927 --> 00:29:52,919
I do look a bit like a butterfly collector.

320
00:29:53,087 --> 00:29:55,681
There we are. Ah! There's one.

321
00:29:55,847 --> 00:29:59,237
- There's a cup of tea! Ahhhh!
- (WOMEN LAUGH)

322
00:29:59,407 --> 00:30:04,117
# Coffee, tea, and the java and me

323
00:30:04,287 --> 00:30:06,676
# A cuppa, cuppa, cuppa, cup... #

324
00:30:13,607 --> 00:30:17,156
Java is the mostly densely populated island
in the world.

325
00:30:17,327 --> 00:30:22,082
110 million people live in an area
the size of England.

326
00:30:22,247 --> 00:30:28,243
Increasing affluence is bringing increasing traffic
to roads never much wider than this.

327
00:30:29,047 --> 00:30:32,437
As the road system is largely free
from motorways,

328
00:30:32,607 --> 00:30:36,441
so much of the countryside
is free from huge farms and agri-business.

329
00:30:36,607 --> 00:30:43,001
This warm, wet land is still farmed by local
people with incredible delicacy and precision.

330
00:30:55,327 --> 00:30:59,923
It's tempting to stop in every valley and village,
but we have a tight schedule.

331
00:31:00,087 --> 00:31:04,956
I insist we only stop if Eko sees something
I really mustn't miss.

332
00:31:13,727 --> 00:31:16,560
Just outside Yogyakarta he spots something.

333
00:31:16,727 --> 00:31:20,163
It's a fruit that, despite its startlingly foul odour,

334
00:31:20,327 --> 00:31:23,717
is one of South-East Asia's
most sought-after delicacies.

335
00:31:23,887 --> 00:31:25,957
Can I have a look at one?

336
00:31:26,127 --> 00:31:32,965
The famous durian fruit which is so smelly
that they won't allow it on aeroplanes.

337
00:31:33,127 --> 00:31:38,326
I saw a hotel the other day that said,
"No durian fruit allowed on the premises."

338
00:31:38,487 --> 00:31:40,955
- Apparently it tastes good, does it?
- Yeah.

339
00:31:41,127 --> 00:31:43,322
Can I smell it?

340
00:31:43,487 --> 00:31:47,196
Oh, yeah, it smells pretty rich.
Now, how do you eat it?

341
00:31:47,367 --> 00:31:50,086
They will open it.

342
00:31:50,247 --> 00:31:52,715
- You can...
- Yeah. Pretty strong.

343
00:31:52,887 --> 00:31:57,802
Soft like banana. Well, this is a first.
You don't see durian-tasting often.

344
00:31:57,967 --> 00:32:00,117
Are you going to have some, as well?

345
00:32:00,287 --> 00:32:02,881
I'll 'ave some if you 'ave some, Eko.

346
00:32:03,887 --> 00:32:06,879
- OK, here we go.
- One, two, three.

347
00:32:10,087 --> 00:32:12,920
- Yummy.
- Mm. Oh, God.

348
00:32:14,807 --> 00:32:17,526
That is a very strange taste, isn't it?

349
00:32:20,527 --> 00:32:26,443
I really can't describe it. The first taste
is a bit nauseating, I have to say.

350
00:32:26,607 --> 00:32:30,600
- Yeah.
- It does make me feel sick, the very first taste.

351
00:32:30,767 --> 00:32:35,443
- What about the second?
- I haven't been sick, so I feel more confident.

352
00:32:38,087 --> 00:32:42,922
I know it makes a terrible smell wherever
it's stored, but do people really prize it?

353
00:32:43,087 --> 00:32:45,476
- Yeah.
- So it's quite expensive.

354
00:32:45,647 --> 00:32:49,481
- The price also depends on the smell.
- It's like a rich custard.

355
00:32:49,647 --> 00:32:54,198
Like rich, smelly custard
with a bit of sort of burnt rubber tyre in it.

356
00:32:54,367 --> 00:32:56,358
One each.

357
00:33:08,607 --> 00:33:12,361
The main road winds on
deeper into the heartland.

358
00:33:12,527 --> 00:33:16,315
It's impossible to hurry,
but that doesn't stop people trying.

359
00:33:20,047 --> 00:33:22,038
(BEEPS HORN)

360
00:33:26,047 --> 00:33:31,360
The row of volcanoes that forms
the backbone of Java is never far away.

361
00:33:31,527 --> 00:33:37,124
I feel they're benevolent - guardians keeping
an eye on us at the end of a long day.

362
00:33:49,527 --> 00:33:53,122
They call Yogyakarta the cultural capital of Java.

363
00:33:53,287 --> 00:33:56,324
It's a bit of several cultures -
Dutch colonial buildings

364
00:33:56,487 --> 00:34:00,719
and a street named after
the British Duke of Marlborough.

365
00:34:00,887 --> 00:34:04,641
We've been asked to a private home
to hear some gamelan music

366
00:34:04,807 --> 00:34:07,924
and watch the puppet show that goes with it.

367
00:34:09,327 --> 00:34:13,479
- A fighting scene. This is hitting.
- Yeah.

368
00:34:14,447 --> 00:34:17,519
You're moving both arms as you do that as well.

369
00:34:17,687 --> 00:34:22,556
How many different puppets
would you use in a story like that?

370
00:34:23,207 --> 00:34:29,806
Say, in one night, at least 35 to 40 puppets.

371
00:34:29,967 --> 00:34:32,117
- In one night. Usually.
- Really?

372
00:34:32,287 --> 00:34:35,006
At least 35 voices.

373
00:34:35,167 --> 00:34:37,476
- Male and female voices?
- Yes.

374
00:34:37,647 --> 00:34:40,002
Like this, for example.

375
00:34:40,167 --> 00:34:43,000
(SPEAKS INDONESIAN)

376
00:34:43,167 --> 00:34:44,964
For example.

377
00:34:45,127 --> 00:34:47,766
(SPEAKS INDONESIAN)

378
00:34:47,927 --> 00:34:49,565
Something like that.

379
00:34:49,727 --> 00:34:54,243
Has it sort of been affected
by the age of television?

380
00:34:54,407 --> 00:34:57,877
Has television kept people away
from the puppet shows?

381
00:34:58,047 --> 00:35:00,356
Some people say so,

382
00:35:00,527 --> 00:35:04,725
but now there is a private television

383
00:35:04,887 --> 00:35:09,881
which broadcasts the wayang kulit
every Saturday night.

384
00:35:10,047 --> 00:35:15,485
So they haven't beaten them, they've joined
them. They've got their own puppet channel.

385
00:35:20,007 --> 00:35:24,637
Wayang kulit, as they call the puppet show,
is not for the faint-hearted.

386
00:35:26,487 --> 00:35:32,084
Loosely based on the great Indian epics,
a full-length performance lasts eight hours.

387
00:35:33,727 --> 00:35:40,041
The puppet master works without a break
to bring 40 or 50 different characters to life,

388
00:35:40,207 --> 00:35:44,962
accompanied by the soft, strange tinklings
of the gamelan orchestra.

389
00:35:45,127 --> 00:35:47,721
(EERIE, TINKLING MUSIC)

390
00:36:04,407 --> 00:36:11,165
Soon my brain falls into a trance-like state, from
which it is only rescued by a full-scale battle.

391
00:36:11,327 --> 00:36:14,524
(MUSIC JANGLES)

392
00:36:21,047 --> 00:36:23,845
With its in-jokes and subversive references,

393
00:36:24,007 --> 00:36:27,556
many Javanese regard wayang kulit
as essential viewing...

394
00:36:28,687 --> 00:36:31,679
...and children still grow up wanting
to be puppet masters.

395
00:36:42,527 --> 00:36:47,317
A little way off the road out of Yogyakarta
is one of the world's great monuments.

396
00:36:48,847 --> 00:36:51,441
It's enormous, yet easy to miss,

397
00:36:51,607 --> 00:36:56,556
squatting amongst fields and coconut groves
like a half-finished mountain.

398
00:36:58,607 --> 00:37:02,805
This is the Buddhist temple of Borobudur,
built in 800AD

399
00:37:02,967 --> 00:37:07,961
and rediscovered 1,000 years later
half submerged in volcanic ash.

400
00:37:08,127 --> 00:37:13,520
Borobudur represents the cosmos -
a model of the universe set in stone.

401
00:37:16,887 --> 00:37:22,837
We have to walk round all these levels.
Follow Buddha's progress.

402
00:37:23,007 --> 00:37:29,799
What's happening along here? They all look
rather sort of... slightly racy things going on.

403
00:37:29,967 --> 00:37:33,801
The terraces form a path to enlightenment
that runs around the monument

404
00:37:33,967 --> 00:37:36,925
for a distance of almost two miles.

405
00:37:38,327 --> 00:37:41,524
The relief panels show details
of the Buddha's journey,

406
00:37:41,687 --> 00:37:44,884
complete with setbacks and seductions.

407
00:37:45,047 --> 00:37:47,800
(MICHAEL)... 99... 100.

408
00:37:47,967 --> 00:37:50,276
- 60 more.
- 60 more?

409
00:37:52,287 --> 00:37:57,202
- (MICHAEL) Is this still the story?
- Still the story of Ramayana.

410
00:37:58,087 --> 00:38:02,763
- Where are we now?
- We are on the third level.

411
00:38:04,487 --> 00:38:08,082
- You are almost in heaven now.
- The lotus position.

412
00:38:13,167 --> 00:38:17,922
300 years ago, Islam swept into Java
and the Buddhists retreated.

413
00:38:18,927 --> 00:38:21,646
(MICHAEL) Our search for enlightenment.

414
00:38:23,287 --> 00:38:26,438
As I've already found
on other sacred mountains of Asia,

415
00:38:26,607 --> 00:38:29,041
enlightenment requires effort.

416
00:38:34,967 --> 00:38:40,041
It's only when you get to the top that
you're aware of the location of this place,

417
00:38:40,207 --> 00:38:44,280
the plain with a circle of volcanoes all around.

418
00:38:44,447 --> 00:38:47,439
Was that intended?

419
00:38:47,607 --> 00:38:53,523
Borobudur was built just absolutely
at the centre of the area,

420
00:38:53,687 --> 00:38:56,281
surrounded by five mountains.

421
00:38:56,447 --> 00:38:58,836
(MICHAEL) So it's significant where we are -

422
00:38:59,007 --> 00:39:04,764
in the centre of the temple, in the centre of
the mountains, in the centre of the universe?

423
00:39:04,927 --> 00:39:07,236
- Yes, of course.
- OK.

424
00:39:07,407 --> 00:39:10,001
- Centre of galaxy.
- Yeah.

425
00:39:10,167 --> 00:39:12,886
Well, I think we deserve a drink.

426
00:39:15,487 --> 00:39:17,239
Sorry.

427
00:39:17,407 --> 00:39:20,444
- You are the guide. You brought me here.
- You first.

428
00:39:20,607 --> 00:39:22,598
- No.
- OK.

429
00:39:23,447 --> 00:39:25,165
Whisky, please!

430
00:39:27,007 --> 00:39:30,966
Not far from Borobudur
is a thousand-year-old Hindu temple,

431
00:39:31,127 --> 00:39:36,884
another man-made image of that key
to life and death on Java - the volcano.

432
00:39:42,847 --> 00:39:47,079
- It's hot today, Eko.
- Are you ready for climbing, Mike?

433
00:39:47,247 --> 00:39:51,320
Yeah, yeah.
Anything to get off this road, I tell you.

434
00:39:52,607 --> 00:39:58,045
Eko is determined that I should climb a volcano,
preferably one that's still active.

435
00:40:02,087 --> 00:40:06,285
He suggests Mount Bromo.
He says it's just round the corner.

436
00:40:14,167 --> 00:40:18,877
Eventually we find the turn-off
and begin the long climb towards Bromo.

437
00:40:22,687 --> 00:40:26,566
Farming is precarious here -
in every sense of the word.

438
00:40:26,727 --> 00:40:29,195
The locals are descended from Hindus

439
00:40:29,367 --> 00:40:33,758
who were pushed to this far end
of the island by the Islamic conquest.

440
00:40:33,927 --> 00:40:39,240
Surprisingly for the tropics, they can grow
crops like cabbages, onions and leeks.

441
00:40:44,847 --> 00:40:50,046
To my great relief, another long day
on the road ends, successfully,

442
00:40:50,207 --> 00:40:53,005
at the door of Mount Bromo's only hotel.

443
00:40:58,247 --> 00:41:02,286
- Ready for the horse?
- I'm ready. I haven't ridden for a while, but...

444
00:41:02,447 --> 00:41:04,165
Let's see.

445
00:41:06,327 --> 00:41:08,602
That's good.

446
00:41:08,767 --> 00:41:10,758
(MICHAEL GROANS)

447
00:41:10,927 --> 00:41:15,125
Why do we have to start
at this extraordinary hour of the night?

448
00:41:15,287 --> 00:41:18,677
- (EKO) Let's go, Mike.
- It's 3.30.

449
00:41:18,847 --> 00:41:21,645
On a horse for the first time in 20 years!

450
00:41:23,047 --> 00:41:26,835
- How far do we have to go, Eko?
- It's about three kilometres.

451
00:41:27,007 --> 00:41:30,124
Three kilometres.
We're going down into the crater?

452
00:41:30,287 --> 00:41:31,686
Yeah.

453
00:41:32,567 --> 00:41:35,764
The great thing is it's a clear night.

454
00:41:35,927 --> 00:41:38,077
Fingers crossed.

455
00:41:38,647 --> 00:41:44,597
- It looks as though it could be a good sunrise.
- Yeah, I hope. Looks like.

456
00:41:47,647 --> 00:41:50,241
How long, do you reckon? An hour?

457
00:42:02,927 --> 00:42:05,725
- Looks like the end of the trail.
- Yeah.

458
00:42:05,887 --> 00:42:10,597
- Where do we go now? We walk from here?
- Yeah. We're going up steps.

459
00:42:10,767 --> 00:42:12,166
Right.

460
00:42:12,327 --> 00:42:14,887
(MICHAEL SIGHS) OK.

461
00:42:16,287 --> 00:42:19,484
Thank you, faithful steed.

462
00:42:21,087 --> 00:42:22,486
OK?

463
00:42:22,647 --> 00:42:27,243
- I'll get on your back now and you can take me...
- (EKO LAUGHS) No way!

464
00:42:34,807 --> 00:42:37,560
The journey has been worth all the effort.

465
00:42:38,887 --> 00:42:42,038
The dawn light reveals
an extraordinary landscape -

466
00:42:42,687 --> 00:42:45,918
oven fresh and still steaming.

467
00:42:50,887 --> 00:42:56,280
When did this blow?
When was this hole made? How recently?

468
00:42:56,447 --> 00:43:01,282
- A hundred years ago.
- A hundred years ago? So it was that new.

469
00:43:01,447 --> 00:43:04,041
- Very new landscape, isn't it?
- Yeah.

470
00:43:04,207 --> 00:43:10,123
Presumably, what we're seeing now, that means
it's still active, there's still energy under there.

471
00:43:10,287 --> 00:43:13,836
- Could it blow again? Has it erupted since?
- Oh, yeah.

472
00:43:14,007 --> 00:43:18,603
The last eruption is... last year, October.

473
00:43:20,127 --> 00:43:23,164
- Last October?
- Yeah. They closed the area.

474
00:43:24,447 --> 00:43:28,201
- For visitors, tourists. Horse.
- Yeah.

475
00:43:28,927 --> 00:43:33,603
I think we should go back, Eko.
I think we should leg it. Come on!

476
00:43:48,687 --> 00:43:51,804
We've reached Surabaya,
where they moor the pinisis,

477
00:43:51,967 --> 00:43:55,755
the boats that still carry most of the trade
between the islands.

478
00:43:56,887 --> 00:43:59,355
Now we must find one going our way.

479
00:43:59,527 --> 00:44:03,725
- Do you want to go to Timor or Lombok?
- Lombok, Lombok.

480
00:44:07,327 --> 00:44:09,522
OK, we'll try down here.

481
00:44:09,687 --> 00:44:13,885
I'm still hopeful. The boats remind me
of the dhows of the Persian Gulf.

482
00:44:14,047 --> 00:44:19,838
There's the same sense of family loyalties and
local skills operating outside the normal system.

483
00:44:20,447 --> 00:44:22,438
But there are problems.

484
00:44:23,127 --> 00:44:27,325
We're in trouble here
because none of them will take us.

485
00:44:27,487 --> 00:44:31,480
None of them will take us east
towards Lombok and Timor,

486
00:44:31,647 --> 00:44:34,366
the direction we want to go towards Darwin.

487
00:44:34,527 --> 00:44:39,555
They say at this time of year
the weather is bad. It's too dangerous to go.

488
00:44:39,727 --> 00:44:44,721
So... we have found one which will take us
tomorrow morning

489
00:44:44,887 --> 00:44:47,321
towards the end of the island of Java.

490
00:44:47,487 --> 00:44:51,685
We'll just have to try and get
somewhere on through the islands from there.

491
00:45:01,367 --> 00:45:06,964
This is as far as we go, Eko. Goodbye.
Goodbye, but I'll see you again sometime.

492
00:45:07,127 --> 00:45:10,961
Thanks very much indeed.
I really appreciate your help and patience.

493
00:45:11,127 --> 00:45:14,961
I'll send you a card from Darwin,
if I ever get there.

494
00:45:16,327 --> 00:45:18,716
- (EKO) Bye.
- Bye.

495
00:45:25,727 --> 00:45:30,005
We leave Surabaya not quite sure
where we're going and how we'll get there.

496
00:46:06,167 --> 00:46:09,637
For a while, it all seems to be going so well.

497
00:46:10,367 --> 00:46:15,760
With sails hoisted and a fair wind,
we make our way majestically southwards.

498
00:46:25,527 --> 00:46:31,124
The inescapable reality is that our ship cannot
risk the open sea with monsoon winds about.

499
00:46:31,847 --> 00:46:36,637
But if we stay inshore, the wind gets weaker
and the sea gets shallower.

500
00:46:40,847 --> 00:46:45,921
After less than a day's sailing, our captain has
no choice but to arrange for local fishermen

501
00:46:46,087 --> 00:46:48,885
to take us off the boat and ashore.

502
00:46:58,127 --> 00:47:00,846
I don't like having to abandon ship.

503
00:47:01,007 --> 00:47:05,797
It's the first major setback since
we missed our Coast Guard flight in Alaska.

504
00:47:06,847 --> 00:47:10,123
But we survived that
and I'm sure we'll survive this.

505
00:47:11,967 --> 00:47:15,642
- (ENGINE SPLUTTERS)
- Well, I think I'm sure.

506
00:47:15,807 --> 00:47:18,116
(ENGINE RUNS NOISILY)

507
00:47:43,567 --> 00:47:47,037
Wherever this village is, they seem very friendly.

508
00:47:47,207 --> 00:47:52,804
In fact, our arrival feels like a homecoming -
as if we've just been round the world.

509
00:47:52,967 --> 00:47:56,562
I daren't tell them
we only left Surabaya this morning.

510
00:48:03,367 --> 00:48:07,360
I wish there were another way of looking at it,
but there isn't.

511
00:48:07,527 --> 00:48:11,406
After 17,000 miles of travel, we're up the creek.

512
00:48:11,567 --> 00:48:16,402
Thanks for getting me to wherever I am,
wherever it is. Cheers, guys.