1 00:00:03,847 --> 00:00:05,644 Hm. 2 00:01:06,807 --> 00:01:11,403 From high in the sky on a brilliant morning, Nepal looks idyllic. 3 00:01:11,567 --> 00:01:13,876 But on the ground things are different. 4 00:01:14,047 --> 00:01:18,404 In these foothills, communist insurgents inspired by Chairman Mao 5 00:01:18,567 --> 00:01:21,320 are waging a campaign against the government 6 00:01:21,487 --> 00:01:26,322 that has lasted eight years and cost nearly 8,000 lives. 7 00:01:26,487 --> 00:01:31,561 As I'm to find out, things in Nepal are not always the way they look. 8 00:01:44,487 --> 00:01:48,196 In the western foothills, far off the tourist track, 9 00:01:48,367 --> 00:01:51,040 I'm with a party on their way to Lekhani 10 00:01:51,207 --> 00:01:56,156 to witness a recruiting ceremony for perhaps Nepal's best-known export - 11 00:01:56,327 --> 00:01:59,319 the legendary Gurkha soldiers. 12 00:02:00,447 --> 00:02:03,962 - (PALIN) But you can't get to it by road? - No. 13 00:02:08,927 --> 00:02:14,399 With me are senior Gurkha officers led by Lieutenant Colonel Adrian Griffith, 14 00:02:14,567 --> 00:02:20,278 an Englishman who's lived here for 15 years and speaks the language fluently. 15 00:02:23,807 --> 00:02:27,516 His interest in the tough fighting men of these hills goes way back. 16 00:02:27,687 --> 00:02:32,920 When I was eight, I took the "Victor" and it had "Johnny Gurkha" in it. 17 00:02:33,087 --> 00:02:36,796 That, and I saw the Gurkhas at the Royal Tournament. 18 00:02:36,967 --> 00:02:39,765 They fired my imagination as a small boy. 19 00:02:39,927 --> 00:02:44,205 At Sandhurst I was lucky enough to get into the brigade 20 00:02:44,367 --> 00:02:49,077 and I was commissioned into the Sixth Gurkhas in 1979, 25 years ago. 21 00:02:49,247 --> 00:02:52,603 (PALIN) And it's never been in any way a let-down? 22 00:02:52,767 --> 00:02:58,046 I always say, "I wanted to be an engine driver and I enjoy being an engine driver." 23 00:03:01,287 --> 00:03:05,326 Do you try and confine your selection to these groups? 24 00:03:05,487 --> 00:03:09,480 Traditionally, we've recruited from the Gurungs and the Magars. 25 00:03:09,647 --> 00:03:14,960 The Gurungs are east of the Kali Gandaki river and the Magars are in this area. 26 00:03:15,127 --> 00:03:17,516 This is the area of the Pun Magar. 27 00:03:17,687 --> 00:03:21,077 The Nepalese government allow us to recruit. 28 00:03:21,247 --> 00:03:26,037 There's an agreement with them, but they ask that we maintain a low profile. 29 00:03:26,207 --> 00:03:31,998 It's embedded in history. Nearly 200 years it's been going on one way or another. 30 00:03:32,167 --> 00:03:36,160 But they like it to be kept as low-key as possible. 31 00:03:37,967 --> 00:03:43,405 It's this lugging of loads up and down hills that really toughens people up 32 00:03:43,567 --> 00:03:47,799 and one of the reasons why they make such ideal soldiers. 33 00:03:48,967 --> 00:03:52,164 I'm feeling toughened up myself by the time we reach Lekhani, 34 00:03:52,327 --> 00:03:54,682 where Adrian addresses the hopefuls. 35 00:03:54,847 --> 00:03:57,839 (SPEAKS NEPALl) 36 00:04:17,767 --> 00:04:19,917 All the recruits are given numbers. 37 00:04:20,087 --> 00:04:26,276 0f the 251 applicants here, only a fraction will go on to the next stage of testing. 38 00:04:28,127 --> 00:04:34,566 (ADRIAN) We recruit once a year. It's in three phases and this is the first phase. 39 00:04:34,727 --> 00:04:38,686 This is the opportunity for any young man to get in. 40 00:04:38,847 --> 00:04:43,477 Clearly, there are more men who want to join than we have places for. 41 00:04:43,647 --> 00:04:45,922 Last year, across the whole of Nepal, 42 00:04:46,087 --> 00:04:51,207 somewhere in the region of 24,000 were chasing 331 places. 43 00:04:51,367 --> 00:04:54,484 - Really? - So it is very important. 44 00:04:54,647 --> 00:05:00,244 The numbers that will get through today... I think the Galla has an allocation of 100. 45 00:05:00,407 --> 00:05:05,003 - Tell me who the Galla is exactly. - The Galla is our recruiter. 46 00:05:05,167 --> 00:05:09,797 He is a retired Gurkha soldier - in this case, a retired sergeant major. 47 00:05:09,967 --> 00:05:13,516 He's resident in the area that he works in 48 00:05:13,687 --> 00:05:18,397 and he is charged with bringing the raw material in. 49 00:05:18,567 --> 00:05:21,684 - (PALIN) So he's pretty vital. - He's fundamental. 50 00:05:25,687 --> 00:05:31,557 In the British Army, recruits will get paid ten times more than in the Nepalese Army, 51 00:05:31,727 --> 00:05:35,436 which makes a Gurkha a very attractive proposition. 52 00:06:31,527 --> 00:06:34,678 As dawn breaks, the village looks the same, 53 00:06:34,847 --> 00:06:40,604 seems to be enjoying itself in the same way, but feels very different. 54 00:06:40,767 --> 00:06:44,760 Despite the sunshine, there's a chill in the air. 55 00:06:47,247 --> 00:06:51,286 Late yesterday, the Galla came to our tent 56 00:06:51,447 --> 00:06:54,564 and said he'd been approached by the local Maoists 57 00:06:54,727 --> 00:07:00,563 who wanted to talk to him, to one of us and also the Gurkhas who we were with. 58 00:07:00,727 --> 00:07:02,718 A meeting was held 59 00:07:02,887 --> 00:07:07,802 at the end of which the Maoists decided to take the Galla and Adrian 60 00:07:07,967 --> 00:07:13,200 and the two other senior Gurkhas off into the forest to meet the hierarchy. 61 00:07:13,367 --> 00:07:19,397 There was nothing we could do. They were taken off yesterday evening into the forest. 62 00:07:19,567 --> 00:07:22,400 This morning they haven't returned. 63 00:07:22,567 --> 00:07:27,038 As far as we know there's no real danger, but they're not back yet. 64 00:07:27,207 --> 00:07:30,438 So it looks as though the recruiting is now off 65 00:07:30,607 --> 00:07:34,964 and all the work that was done yesterday will be a waste. 66 00:07:35,127 --> 00:07:40,155 It looks also as though we will have to get out of here as quickly as possible. 67 00:07:42,927 --> 00:07:48,763 There's no obvious threat, but knowing we're in Maoist territory changes the atmosphere. 68 00:07:48,927 --> 00:07:51,760 From being a charming rustic backwater, 69 00:07:51,927 --> 00:07:57,923 Lekhani now seems more like a trap and friendly locals potential kidnappers. 70 00:08:03,407 --> 00:08:09,403 As we head out, we pass the would-be Gurkhas looking as confused as ourselves. 71 00:08:14,607 --> 00:08:20,477 We're two hours' walk from the nearest road and only when we're there will we feel safe. 72 00:08:32,087 --> 00:08:36,717 48 hours later, news that Adrian has been released safe and well 73 00:08:36,887 --> 00:08:39,879 reaches us in the lakeside town of Pokhara. 74 00:08:40,047 --> 00:08:43,198 Adrian tells me what happened when he was abducted. 75 00:08:43,367 --> 00:08:46,165 I was then introduced to Comrade Mahesh, 76 00:08:46,327 --> 00:08:51,765 who was obviously a senior member of the Baglung Maoist Party, 77 00:08:51,927 --> 00:08:55,966 and I had a discussion with him on the Maoist cause. 78 00:08:56,127 --> 00:08:59,881 He said that his aim was - in taking me, particularly - 79 00:09:00,047 --> 00:09:04,199 to get more publicity for their cause outside Nepal. 80 00:09:04,367 --> 00:09:09,202 They then at 12 o'clock walked us down to the road which we'd driven up, 81 00:09:09,367 --> 00:09:12,837 and they'd arranged a vehicle for us there. 82 00:09:13,007 --> 00:09:18,400 They then said we must have a final cup of tea together, so we had a cup of tea! 83 00:09:18,567 --> 00:09:22,640 Then they made a small speech to the assembled villagers 84 00:09:22,807 --> 00:09:27,927 and at 1.30 we got in, drove off down the hill, and that was the end of it. 85 00:09:28,087 --> 00:09:33,559 What sort of people were your abductors? Presumably you could make some judgment. 86 00:09:33,727 --> 00:09:37,276 They were very normal Nepalis. 87 00:09:37,447 --> 00:09:40,245 They were a mix of different castes. 88 00:09:40,407 --> 00:09:44,605 They were all very well informed in terms of their own cause. 89 00:09:44,767 --> 00:09:50,239 They were unremarkable except for being focused on what they were trying to achieve. 90 00:09:51,647 --> 00:09:53,956 Now it's time to tackle the mountains. 91 00:09:54,127 --> 00:09:58,882 We'll be trekking up to the 13,500-foot base camp of Annapurna, 92 00:09:59,047 --> 00:10:01,197 whose summit dominates the horizon 93 00:10:01,367 --> 00:10:06,202 along with the beautiful peak of Machhapuchhare - "Fishtail". 94 00:10:07,727 --> 00:10:11,845 The idea is to see a bit of the country and get acclimatised to high altitude 95 00:10:12,007 --> 00:10:15,204 before we take on Everest and the Tibetan Plateau. 96 00:10:15,367 --> 00:10:21,363 Followed by our Sherpa guides, Wongchu and Nawang, I set a less than blistering pace. 97 00:10:21,527 --> 00:10:24,200 - Hi. - Namasté. 98 00:10:24,367 --> 00:10:26,358 Where have you come from? 99 00:10:26,527 --> 00:10:29,325 - We have come from Bamboo. - Bamboo? 100 00:10:29,487 --> 00:10:33,560 - Yeah. All the way. - That's where we're going. 101 00:10:33,727 --> 00:10:35,797 - Amazing. - How is it up there? 102 00:10:35,967 --> 00:10:40,199 Amazing. 360 degrees. Just mountains. Gorgeous. 103 00:10:40,367 --> 00:10:43,723 - Weather good? - Very nice. 104 00:10:43,887 --> 00:10:46,560 - Where are you all from? - Israel. 105 00:10:46,727 --> 00:10:48,797 - Oh, wow. - And you? 106 00:10:48,967 --> 00:10:52,880 Where am I from? England. That's right! 107 00:10:53,047 --> 00:10:57,086 We've only just started our climb. We're a bit vague on details. 108 00:10:57,247 --> 00:11:02,002 - Is this part of a long holiday? - It's a vacation from school. 109 00:11:02,167 --> 00:11:06,957 - Any problems along the way? - We had a problem on our second day. 110 00:11:07,127 --> 00:11:12,565 We actually slept here in Chhomrong and we met some Maoists. 111 00:11:12,727 --> 00:11:16,436 - What did they say? "We're Maoists"? - Yeah. There were three. 112 00:11:16,607 --> 00:11:21,158 One of them spoke. One with a gun was standing behind him. 113 00:11:21,327 --> 00:11:25,957 They were just telling us, "Hello, we are Maoists." 114 00:11:26,127 --> 00:11:32,077 - "We are communists." - Not really. And they started talking. 115 00:11:32,247 --> 00:11:36,160 They said that each one of us had to pay 1,000 rupees. 116 00:11:36,327 --> 00:11:39,922 We paid 1,000, they give us a receipt 117 00:11:40,087 --> 00:11:44,126 and there's not going to be any problem on the way 118 00:11:44,287 --> 00:11:49,281 because they say that they are the mountain people and this is their area. 119 00:11:49,447 --> 00:11:54,646 You weren't frightened? Did they point the gun at you as they asked for the rupees? 120 00:11:54,807 --> 00:11:59,358 No, they didn't point the gun. We tried to negotiate with them. 121 00:11:59,527 --> 00:12:04,726 We said we were students, this is the beginning of our trip, 122 00:12:04,887 --> 00:12:07,481 but we had to pay them eventually. 123 00:12:07,647 --> 00:12:11,606 - We got a receipt. Do you want to see? - Yes. 124 00:12:11,767 --> 00:12:14,759 If you're going home, you can give me the receipt! 125 00:12:14,927 --> 00:12:19,398 But it's in Nepali, so you won't understand what's written. 126 00:12:19,567 --> 00:12:24,516 It does say that we paid 1,500 and my names... 127 00:12:25,527 --> 00:12:30,476 I read Nepali and it says, "Arrest these three on arrival." 128 00:12:30,647 --> 00:12:33,480 I suggest that you learn Nepali, I think. 129 00:12:33,647 --> 00:12:36,400 - Your name, sorry? - Leat. And you are? 130 00:12:36,567 --> 00:12:39,400 - I'm Michael. Leat and? - Agnes. 131 00:12:39,567 --> 00:12:41,478 - Bas. - Bas. OK. 132 00:12:41,647 --> 00:12:44,559 - It was nice meeting you. - Yes. And you. 133 00:12:44,727 --> 00:12:47,719 It's all downhill from here, so good luck. 134 00:12:47,887 --> 00:12:51,562 - Thanks for the hints on the way. - No problem. Enjoy. 135 00:12:51,727 --> 00:12:53,365 - Bye-bye. - Bye. 136 00:13:06,927 --> 00:13:12,399 I'm already feeling breathless. Notices warn that things can only get worse. 137 00:13:13,407 --> 00:13:15,318 "Mountain sickness." 138 00:13:15,487 --> 00:13:18,285 Wongchu has been up Everest twice. 139 00:13:18,447 --> 00:13:24,556 When do we get the height where you get mountain sickness? Are we there yet? 140 00:13:24,727 --> 00:13:29,517 Yes, you'll get mountain sickness and you must drink a lot of water. 141 00:13:29,687 --> 00:13:35,045 Then you must use the soup, anything, and go slow. 142 00:13:35,207 --> 00:13:37,198 - Walk slower. - That's easy. 143 00:13:37,367 --> 00:13:42,441 When you get headache, you must move down in a low place. 144 00:13:42,607 --> 00:13:47,362 (PALIN) "Early symptoms - headache, loss of appetite, dizziness, fatigue." 145 00:13:47,527 --> 00:13:53,045 I've got a bit of that. "What to do: Get in touch with your nearest Sherpa. 146 00:13:53,207 --> 00:13:55,721 "Descend, descend, descend." 147 00:13:55,887 --> 00:14:00,677 Well, that's pretty clear. It's not a cakewalk, is it? 148 00:14:05,127 --> 00:14:06,606 Namasté. 149 00:14:08,647 --> 00:14:14,040 We set off next morning with high hopes - encouraged by the locals. 150 00:14:21,487 --> 00:14:26,402 So far, so good. Much of the trek seems either downhill or along the valley floor. 151 00:14:26,567 --> 00:14:29,286 Wongchu puts up with this 152 00:14:29,447 --> 00:14:33,918 but doesn't really start to enjoy himself till it gets steep. 153 00:14:34,087 --> 00:14:37,921 - Lunch here, Wongchu? - No. Up the hill. 154 00:14:38,087 --> 00:14:39,884 Swine. 155 00:14:42,207 --> 00:14:47,964 - Up the hill. - Not grass again. I need a decent meal. 156 00:14:51,807 --> 00:14:54,844 The porters, carrying our equipment in bamboo baskets, 157 00:14:55,007 --> 00:14:58,124 positively scamper up the mountain. 158 00:14:58,287 --> 00:15:02,280 Wongchu follows them like a man who's late for work. 159 00:15:06,887 --> 00:15:09,606 Wongchu, it's not the Olympic 100 metres. 160 00:15:09,767 --> 00:15:13,521 (INDISTINCT REPLY) 161 00:15:13,687 --> 00:15:16,121 The view is spectacular. 162 00:15:16,287 --> 00:15:20,280 You can clearly see why Machhapuchhare is called "Fishtail". 163 00:15:31,887 --> 00:15:36,961 Mercifully, Wongchu has allowed us a stop at one of the guesthouses on the route 164 00:15:37,127 --> 00:15:38,879 offering rare Nepalese dishes. 165 00:15:50,367 --> 00:15:53,006 Thank you very much. Boiled potato. 166 00:15:53,167 --> 00:15:55,965 - Is this from your garden? - Yep. 167 00:15:56,127 --> 00:15:59,642 - Good. That's very nice. - Looks very good. 168 00:15:59,807 --> 00:16:01,843 Is this your lodge? 169 00:16:02,007 --> 00:16:04,919 - Do you run it or do you just work here? - Yep. 170 00:16:05,087 --> 00:16:10,798 You have all nationalities up here. Many countries. You speak English. 171 00:16:11,967 --> 00:16:16,836 Do you have to speak other languages? What other languages to you speak? 172 00:16:17,007 --> 00:16:21,683 Only a little bit English, and Gurung and Nepali. 173 00:16:21,847 --> 00:16:24,645 - That's all. - And you live up here? 174 00:16:24,807 --> 00:16:26,798 - Yep. - All year round? 175 00:16:26,967 --> 00:16:29,276 - No. - What happens in the winter? 176 00:16:29,447 --> 00:16:34,521 - Go to Chhomrong. - Right. You have family in Chhomrong? 177 00:16:36,127 --> 00:16:39,642 - Do you carry things up here? - Yep. Sometimes. 178 00:16:39,807 --> 00:16:43,846 - Five to ten kilos. - Five to ten kilos? 179 00:16:44,007 --> 00:16:46,567 You're strong. 180 00:16:46,727 --> 00:16:49,958 I'm very impressed. I don't speak anything. 181 00:16:51,287 --> 00:16:54,165 After lunch, the path becomes a bit of a roller-coaster - 182 00:16:54,327 --> 00:16:57,444 out of one valley and down into the next. 183 00:17:20,727 --> 00:17:26,324 Blimey. Wongchu sets a fast pace. Mind you, he has been up Everest twice. 184 00:17:26,487 --> 00:17:31,277 It's the afternoon now. I think walking this morning was easier. 185 00:17:31,447 --> 00:17:35,599 We stopped for lunch and it's hard to get started again. 186 00:17:35,767 --> 00:17:38,759 Every step suddenly seems like 12. 187 00:17:38,927 --> 00:17:44,285 The stairs, the steps, aren't regular, so you're going a different speed. 188 00:17:44,447 --> 00:17:49,965 Anyway, stop moaning, Palin. On you go. You're enjoying the Himalaya. 189 00:18:31,007 --> 00:18:33,521 (MICHAEL GROANS) 190 00:18:35,287 --> 00:18:39,803 Oh, wow. We're getting higher up now. 191 00:18:41,407 --> 00:18:46,435 I'm beginning to feel it. Are we above 3,000 metres? 192 00:18:46,607 --> 00:18:51,237 - Yes. This is a nice place. - It is. It's cool and shady. What is it? 193 00:18:51,407 --> 00:18:54,558 - This is Hinko cave. - Hindu cave? 194 00:18:54,727 --> 00:18:57,878 - Hinko. - Sorry. What's a Hinko? 195 00:18:58,047 --> 00:19:04,600 Hinko means some Hindu god and some Himalaya god living here. 196 00:19:04,767 --> 00:19:10,637 That's what they call it. Also the yeti lives here. 197 00:19:10,807 --> 00:19:15,164 - Yeti lives here? Go on! Really? - Yes. 198 00:19:15,327 --> 00:19:19,115 - You believe in the yeti? - I saw some yeti in the mountain. 199 00:19:19,287 --> 00:19:23,883 - What did it look like? - It looked like a monkey and like people. 200 00:19:24,047 --> 00:19:28,120 - A big monkey? How big? How tall? - Same like us. 201 00:19:28,287 --> 00:19:33,998 - Really? It wasn't some climber a bit lost? - No climber. Yeti. 202 00:19:35,327 --> 00:19:40,799 - Did it make a noise? - Sometimes they say, "Eee!" like this. 203 00:19:40,967 --> 00:19:44,642 So you'd know there was a yeti coming. 204 00:19:44,807 --> 00:19:49,198 That is the most wonderful sight. And if there's a yeti there... 205 00:19:49,367 --> 00:19:55,363 - Let's go and have tea with the yeti. - Yes. The yeti make the tea. 206 00:19:55,527 --> 00:19:57,995 Yeti make the tea very nice. 207 00:19:59,207 --> 00:20:03,325 - Oh, dear. If I can get down. - Be careful. 208 00:20:19,927 --> 00:20:23,556 0ur dream home for the night is typical of the lodges 209 00:20:23,727 --> 00:20:27,117 that have sprouted up to cater for the trekkers. 210 00:20:31,727 --> 00:20:37,085 The problem with these wonderful Himalayan viewpoints is that we can't see a thing. 211 00:20:37,247 --> 00:20:42,162 Deorali looked so wonderfully inviting with the sun shining on it. 212 00:20:42,327 --> 00:20:46,923 Then the clouds came down and now we can't see a thing. 213 00:20:47,087 --> 00:20:49,555 It's also getting very cold. 214 00:20:49,727 --> 00:20:52,525 On top of that, I'm not feeling great. 215 00:20:52,687 --> 00:20:58,683 It might just be a cold, but it might well be to do with the effects of altitude. 216 00:20:58,847 --> 00:21:01,281 Who knows? I feel quite weary. 217 00:21:01,447 --> 00:21:05,998 And I know I'll have to take the path to Annapurna again soon, 218 00:21:06,167 --> 00:21:10,160 but for now I'll keep taking the trekking honey. 219 00:21:11,447 --> 00:21:14,405 Rub it on, you'll feel a lot better. 220 00:21:27,127 --> 00:21:33,123 Halfway through the trek, and for the first time some doubts are creeping into my mind. 221 00:21:34,727 --> 00:21:38,197 (HOARSELY) Oh, dear. I don't know how I'll go on today. 222 00:21:38,367 --> 00:21:43,157 Last night was pretty awful. I've got a throat like sandpaper. 223 00:21:43,327 --> 00:21:49,323 And altitudes are unforgiving, from what I hear - things don't get any better as you go up. 224 00:21:49,487 --> 00:21:52,479 There's nowhere else to go. Nothing for it. 225 00:21:52,647 --> 00:21:57,641 I hope I'll prove them wrong - that climbing does make you feel better. 226 00:22:19,327 --> 00:22:21,966 We're entering the avalanche area. 227 00:22:22,127 --> 00:22:26,120 When it snows, these sheer rock-faces are lethal. 228 00:22:26,287 --> 00:22:31,281 Wongchu treats it with great respect. He's seen people killed here. 229 00:22:36,007 --> 00:22:39,477 I have my own private avalanches to deal with. 230 00:22:39,647 --> 00:22:45,722 Waves of fatigue sweep over me, requiring increasingly regular breathers. 231 00:22:45,887 --> 00:22:51,200 Ah, well, that's the camp. That's Machhapuchhare. 232 00:22:51,367 --> 00:22:56,964 Named after the glorious mountain up there - Fishtail Mountain. A sacred mountain. 233 00:22:57,127 --> 00:23:03,157 So sacred that they don't kill animals here. They have an entirely vegetarian diet. 234 00:23:03,327 --> 00:23:09,118 Anyway, it's sublime and wonderful scenery to be totally and completely knackered in. 235 00:23:09,287 --> 00:23:13,997 The last few thousand feet have taken it out of me. 236 00:23:14,167 --> 00:23:17,477 I don't know if it's just this cold or the altitude. 237 00:23:17,647 --> 00:23:25,361 This is partly acclimatising to much higher areas we're gonna be going into. 238 00:23:25,527 --> 00:23:31,397 We're going up to Everest and that's much higher, so I hope it's not altitude sickness. 239 00:23:31,567 --> 00:23:35,480 I'm knackered to a standstill. I had to give my pack to somebody. 240 00:23:35,647 --> 00:23:39,640 I've become like a patient being carried up the hill... 241 00:23:39,807 --> 00:23:43,277 (COUGHS) 242 00:23:46,407 --> 00:23:48,875 Cut to scenery. 243 00:24:00,967 --> 00:24:04,721 It takes me another hour to reach Machhapuchhare base camp 244 00:24:04,887 --> 00:24:07,720 where everyone seems infuriatingly happy. 245 00:24:20,887 --> 00:24:25,642 Wongchu, thank you. I couldn't have done it without you. 246 00:24:25,807 --> 00:24:31,439 - Excuse me, sir. This is your tent. - I just want to collapse somewhere. 247 00:24:32,687 --> 00:24:36,839 - This is your tent. Please. - Yes. Lovely. 248 00:24:37,007 --> 00:24:42,604 I haven't the energy to get in at the moment. I'm so pleased we're here. 249 00:24:42,767 --> 00:24:46,077 - Look at that. Fantastic. - Please. 250 00:24:51,207 --> 00:24:54,438 Mmm. Almost worth it. 251 00:25:03,887 --> 00:25:07,004 - Thank you. Very good. - Would you like more? 252 00:25:07,167 --> 00:25:10,637 No, no. I'll just take this. 253 00:25:10,807 --> 00:25:13,844 My lungs are telling me we're high. 254 00:25:14,007 --> 00:25:19,400 We're over 12,000 feet, and the view of the Annapurna Sanctuary is a revelation. 255 00:25:19,567 --> 00:25:23,355 Nine of these summits are above 23,000 feet. 256 00:25:23,527 --> 00:25:26,917 (GUIDE) On the left it's Hiunchuli - our trekking peak. 257 00:25:27,087 --> 00:25:29,840 Trekking peak? You could walk up to that? 258 00:25:30,007 --> 00:25:36,037 Individual people can climb it with the Sherpas. 259 00:25:36,207 --> 00:25:40,883 - Looks terrifying to me. - It takes a couple of days to climb. 260 00:25:42,167 --> 00:25:46,206 (PALIN) There's huge snowfields up there on the rim. 261 00:25:46,367 --> 00:25:52,124 Tomorrow when we get to the Annapurna BC, we can see all the glacier up there. 262 00:25:52,287 --> 00:25:57,077 Sensational. I feel we're in the Himalayas now. I haven't felt it quite yet. 263 00:25:57,247 --> 00:26:02,275 We've been in the Karakoram and the Hindu Kush, but this is it. 264 00:26:03,967 --> 00:26:07,596 Coughing fit again in the Himalaya. 265 00:26:11,767 --> 00:26:13,485 Can I have a lie-down, please? 266 00:26:29,607 --> 00:26:32,838 Sometime in the night, my cold turns a corner. 267 00:26:33,007 --> 00:26:36,363 By the time Mingmar shakes my tent to see if I'm still in it, 268 00:26:36,527 --> 00:26:41,806 I'm up and about and meeting with my fellow mountaineers. 269 00:26:43,327 --> 00:26:48,276 - Is your friend climbing Annapurna? - Yeah. He is the leader of the expedition. 270 00:26:48,447 --> 00:26:55,319 - It is the last 8,000-metre mountain. Last one. - Have they got up? 271 00:26:55,487 --> 00:27:00,607 The Annapurna south face is the last 8,000-metre in Nepal, in the world. 272 00:27:00,767 --> 00:27:04,760 And has he summited it? He's got to the top? 273 00:27:04,927 --> 00:27:07,316 - I hope. - We don't know. 274 00:27:07,487 --> 00:27:10,763 - Tomorrow. - So it's an exciting day for you. 275 00:27:10,927 --> 00:27:15,000 - Yeah. Big party. - Fantastic. 276 00:27:15,167 --> 00:27:19,319 - I hope he made it. - OK. See you. 277 00:27:19,487 --> 00:27:22,843 Good climbing. I hope your friends do well. 278 00:27:23,007 --> 00:27:25,475 - Thank you. - OK. See you. 279 00:27:29,487 --> 00:27:35,676 They're proper climbers. I'm just a terrible fraud, really, but there you go. 280 00:27:39,607 --> 00:27:43,680 The sun may be bright on Annapurna but it's bitterly cold. 281 00:27:43,847 --> 00:27:46,520 0ur porters are dressed for the plains 282 00:27:46,687 --> 00:27:50,999 and they're carrying loads of anything up to 40 kilos. 283 00:27:54,287 --> 00:27:58,519 Here we go. Oh! I can just about lift that. 284 00:27:58,687 --> 00:28:01,918 Thank you. Oh, my God. 285 00:28:03,047 --> 00:28:09,236 Unbelievable. Superhuman. I don't see how a body can cope with all that. 286 00:28:09,407 --> 00:28:14,765 I suppose once it's up there, you're OK. A smile. OK. 287 00:28:15,767 --> 00:28:19,555 Well, good on you. Respect. 288 00:28:21,327 --> 00:28:25,366 And there's me not even carrying my toothbrush. 289 00:29:14,527 --> 00:29:19,043 I can't quite believe it. The end is in sight. Annapurna base camp. 290 00:29:20,287 --> 00:29:24,599 I'm so glad, despite the near collapse yesterday, that I made it, 291 00:29:24,767 --> 00:29:29,522 because it's just a stunning place and I would have missed all this. 292 00:29:29,687 --> 00:29:34,477 The Annapurnas One, Two, Three and Four - very unimaginative. 293 00:29:34,647 --> 00:29:38,242 Look at them. Isn't that stunning? I think I'm going to get there. 294 00:29:38,407 --> 00:29:41,399 I just have a feeling I'm going to make it. 295 00:29:42,807 --> 00:29:44,923 Aagh! 296 00:30:06,407 --> 00:30:11,686 I suppose this symbolises our achievement over the last five days. 297 00:30:11,847 --> 00:30:14,042 This is the summit of Annapurna, 298 00:30:14,207 --> 00:30:18,564 and it's just breathtaking, extraordinary, powerful scenery. 299 00:30:21,207 --> 00:30:25,405 Despite everything, Annapurna has prepared me well. 300 00:30:25,567 --> 00:30:31,358 At least I know what to expect, as we head for Kathmandu, Everest and beyond. 301 00:30:36,087 --> 00:30:40,558 After the emptiness of the mountains, Kathmandu comes as quite a shock. 302 00:30:40,727 --> 00:30:46,723 Almost a million live in Nepal's capital, built on the widest valley in the Himalaya. 303 00:30:47,887 --> 00:30:50,720 (TRAFFIC NOISE) 304 00:30:56,847 --> 00:30:59,839 Kathmandu must be used to crowds. 305 00:31:00,007 --> 00:31:04,159 It's the meeting place for traders between India and Tibet. 306 00:31:04,327 --> 00:31:07,763 When Nepal opened up to the world in the 1960s, 307 00:31:07,927 --> 00:31:12,955 the spirit of tolerance that drew the hippies sparked a tourist invasion. 308 00:31:14,127 --> 00:31:19,121 For me, the dazzling surprise is the beauty of the old buildings. 309 00:31:19,687 --> 00:31:22,281 These are the work of the Newar people. 310 00:31:22,447 --> 00:31:26,156 They invented the pagoda and took it to China. 311 00:31:36,247 --> 00:31:39,159 In Durbar Square in the old city of Patan, 312 00:31:39,327 --> 00:31:44,037 local newspaper editor Kundar Dixit explains this rich heritage. 313 00:31:44,207 --> 00:31:48,246 The mixture in Kathmandu valley, which is what's unique, 314 00:31:48,407 --> 00:31:51,638 is the mixture of Hinduism and Buddhism 315 00:31:51,807 --> 00:31:55,925 that gave rise to this almost tantric art. 316 00:32:02,207 --> 00:32:08,442 It's a living place still? People do come here to offer prayers and all that? 317 00:32:08,607 --> 00:32:14,125 It's not a museum. They used to say there are more temples in Kathmandu than houses 318 00:32:14,287 --> 00:32:16,278 and more gods than people. 319 00:32:16,447 --> 00:32:21,840 That has changed now, but it's still a living place. People go off to pray. 320 00:32:22,007 --> 00:32:24,521 They live right around here. 321 00:32:29,007 --> 00:32:31,680 (PALIN) So commerce goes on as well... 322 00:32:31,847 --> 00:32:37,399 Nepal's love affair with tourism is obvious, but there are clouds on the horizon. 323 00:32:37,567 --> 00:32:41,845 - As you can see, business is down. - Is it? I can't tell. 324 00:32:42,007 --> 00:32:47,525 But I've heard that it's suffered because of the Maoist problems. 325 00:32:47,687 --> 00:32:54,320 (KUNDAR) That too, but also internationally since 9/11, tourism is down. 326 00:32:54,487 --> 00:32:59,800 The security nightmare is that the Maoists will bring their fight into the city. 327 00:32:59,967 --> 00:33:05,758 - Will there have to be a compromise? - Absolutely. There is no military solution. 328 00:33:05,927 --> 00:33:10,079 In fact, both sides have said there is no military solution. 329 00:33:10,247 --> 00:33:14,559 This is a very messy war in the world's most difficult terrain. 330 00:33:14,727 --> 00:33:19,118 No one's going to win. It's just going to take the country down. 331 00:33:21,687 --> 00:33:25,965 It must be quite exciting for you as a newspaper man. 332 00:33:26,127 --> 00:33:31,201 Do you feel that you're able to take quite an important part in the debate? 333 00:33:31,367 --> 00:33:36,839 We started our paper four years ago, just when the country started going to the dogs. 334 00:33:37,007 --> 00:33:40,682 So maybe we're partly responsible for this! 335 00:33:40,847 --> 00:33:45,363 I think it's a tremendously exciting time to be here. 336 00:33:45,527 --> 00:33:49,236 Nepal's press has never been freer, in a sense. 337 00:33:49,407 --> 00:33:55,755 There used to be curbs on reporting, for example, on the monarchy, on the military. 338 00:33:55,927 --> 00:33:59,636 There's none of that any more. So there's a paradox. 339 00:33:59,807 --> 00:34:05,200 There's an insurgency going on, but the press is totally free. 340 00:34:05,367 --> 00:34:10,919 The prime minister has been sacked, parliament is in limbo, but the press is free. 341 00:34:11,087 --> 00:34:16,764 So I think the challenge is to use that freedom to bring about change - 342 00:34:16,927 --> 00:34:21,159 social, political change - and spread consciousness about people's rights. 343 00:34:21,327 --> 00:34:23,318 (DRUMS AND BELLS) 344 00:34:23,487 --> 00:34:27,844 We've been tipped off that the King is attending a ceremony tonight. 345 00:34:28,007 --> 00:34:30,202 Security is tight. 346 00:34:30,367 --> 00:34:34,440 King Gyanendra came to the throne less than three years ago 347 00:34:34,607 --> 00:34:39,362 after nine members of the royal family were murdered by the Crown Prince. 348 00:34:39,527 --> 00:34:43,440 The threat of assassination is on everyone's mind. 349 00:34:43,607 --> 00:34:49,159 This ceremony, in which the King accepts the blessings of the goddess Bhadrakali, 350 00:34:49,327 --> 00:34:53,605 is seen as a vital endorsement for the beleaguered monarchy. 351 00:34:58,127 --> 00:35:01,437 Judging by the queues outside the Royal Palace next morning, 352 00:35:01,607 --> 00:35:04,041 the monarchy still has its supporters. 353 00:35:04,207 --> 00:35:09,327 Along with Pratima Pande, a cousin of the King, I queued to receive his blessing 354 00:35:09,487 --> 00:35:12,206 at the important Hindu festival of Dasain. 355 00:35:12,367 --> 00:35:15,757 (BAGPIPES PLAY) 356 00:35:23,767 --> 00:35:27,316 Looking a bit like a hotel receptionist, 357 00:35:27,487 --> 00:35:32,880 the King plants one tika after another on the foreheads of his people. 358 00:35:43,167 --> 00:35:46,716 The tika - a mix of curd, rice and vermilion powder - 359 00:35:46,887 --> 00:35:49,720 is applied in strictly hierarchical order. 360 00:35:49,887 --> 00:35:54,244 Ministers, politicians, politicians' wives, army generals 361 00:35:54,407 --> 00:35:58,844 and, to the King's surprise, English television presenters. 362 00:35:59,007 --> 00:36:04,400 (SPEAKS NEPALl) Michael Palin... BBC... 363 00:36:04,567 --> 00:36:06,683 - Your Majesty. - How do you do? 364 00:36:06,847 --> 00:36:09,042 And I get a handshake as well. 365 00:36:09,207 --> 00:36:12,040 - I hope you're enjoying our festival. - Absolutely. 366 00:36:12,207 --> 00:36:16,678 We intend to enjoy the rest of Nepal. Thank you. 367 00:36:23,887 --> 00:36:27,880 - (EXCITED SHOUTING) - One, two, three... 368 00:36:29,687 --> 00:36:31,279 Apart from the bestowing of blessings, 369 00:36:31,447 --> 00:36:35,884 Dasain is the only time Nepalis are allowed to gamble. 370 00:36:36,047 --> 00:36:40,837 - How do you count up what he's got? - 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8. 371 00:36:41,007 --> 00:36:44,238 - Eight is divisible by four, so eight. - Right. 372 00:36:44,407 --> 00:36:48,161 So he wins everybody's money now. 373 00:36:48,327 --> 00:36:53,117 Cowry shells are shaken like dice and bets taken on how they fall. 374 00:36:53,287 --> 00:36:56,484 1, 2, 3... 5, 6! 375 00:36:57,967 --> 00:37:01,357 The trouble is only one man ever seems to win. 376 00:37:01,527 --> 00:37:03,995 He's won again? 377 00:37:05,927 --> 00:37:07,645 Why? 378 00:37:09,567 --> 00:37:13,242 I think... Pratima, I think I've been set up. 379 00:37:13,407 --> 00:37:15,967 You've invited me here. You've set me up. 380 00:37:16,127 --> 00:37:21,599 Your husband's a banker. You're trying to get British investment into the country. 381 00:37:21,767 --> 00:37:23,962 I don't know. 382 00:37:28,327 --> 00:37:33,640 Next morning, Pratima takes me to the more sober temple at Pashupatinath. 383 00:37:33,807 --> 00:37:39,803 90% of Nepalese are Hindu and this is considered the holiest Hindu site outside India. 384 00:37:39,967 --> 00:37:44,836 Across the river are the "ghats" where cremations take place in public. 385 00:37:46,807 --> 00:37:50,800 The complex also includes an enclosure where holy men, 386 00:37:50,967 --> 00:37:54,926 dedicated to the Shiva, live in well-publicised seclusion. 387 00:37:55,087 --> 00:38:00,161 What is this? This is like an ashram for the holy men. 388 00:38:00,327 --> 00:38:02,124 - Yes. - Sadhus. 389 00:38:02,287 --> 00:38:07,805 Yes. These are men who have renounced all their worldly possessions and belongings. 390 00:38:08,887 --> 00:38:13,119 - And dedicated their lives to this temple? - And to Lord Shiva. 391 00:38:13,287 --> 00:38:18,520 They are dressed like Lord Shiva. Their appearances are like that. 392 00:38:18,687 --> 00:38:22,282 Lord Shiva smears himself with ash. 393 00:38:22,447 --> 00:38:24,836 (CHANTING) 394 00:38:25,007 --> 00:38:28,204 - How old are you, sir? - I am 56 years. 395 00:38:28,367 --> 00:38:31,757 - 56 years. And you've been 20 years here? - Yes. 396 00:38:31,927 --> 00:38:35,363 And were you a sadhu before that? 397 00:38:35,527 --> 00:38:40,078 - Sadhu... 35 years. - 35 years? 398 00:38:42,807 --> 00:38:47,005 - 86. - 86? Wow. Great respect. 399 00:38:47,167 --> 00:38:50,204 And 66 years all this hair. 400 00:38:53,287 --> 00:38:58,759 - 86 years without a razor. - (PRATIMA) Amazing. Look at this. 401 00:38:58,927 --> 00:39:02,363 He's very thin. He's very thin. 402 00:39:02,527 --> 00:39:06,156 Is he? Are you strong? Is he strong? 403 00:39:06,327 --> 00:39:10,843 - Yes, yes. He do yoga position. - He does yoga. 404 00:39:11,007 --> 00:39:16,445 (PALIN) A yoga position. I don't want him to if he doesn't want to. 405 00:39:33,607 --> 00:39:37,441 I only hope I can get a leg over at 86. 406 00:39:45,807 --> 00:39:47,843 At the ghats business is brisk, 407 00:39:48,007 --> 00:39:52,637 as funeral pyres and their attendants work flat out to cope with demand. 408 00:39:55,927 --> 00:40:00,876 Every Hindu, every religious person, wants to come to Pashupatinath. 409 00:40:01,047 --> 00:40:03,163 It is the place to be cremated. 410 00:40:04,167 --> 00:40:08,843 Sons carry the body and walk barefeet and bring the body to Pashupatinath. 411 00:40:09,007 --> 00:40:13,159 (PALIN) They walk through the town and bring the body here? 412 00:40:13,327 --> 00:40:17,684 There's no burial in the Hindu religions? It's always cremation. 413 00:40:23,287 --> 00:40:25,881 (PRATIMA) They shave their heads also. 414 00:40:26,047 --> 00:40:30,484 As a sign of mourning, you shave your heads - the men. 415 00:40:30,647 --> 00:40:34,322 When the royal family all died, 416 00:40:34,487 --> 00:40:37,957 were they all cremated about the same time? 417 00:40:38,127 --> 00:40:42,120 (PRATIMA) Five of them were cremated on the same day here. 418 00:40:42,287 --> 00:40:45,723 It was very sad and unbelievable. 419 00:40:45,887 --> 00:40:51,723 Everyone was traumatised, put it that way. The whole Nepali nation was traumatised. 420 00:40:55,087 --> 00:40:58,159 What I see here is at first quite shocking. 421 00:40:58,327 --> 00:41:02,320 Where I come from, death is in the hands of the professionals. 422 00:41:02,487 --> 00:41:08,801 We send our loved ones away hidden in a box into a hidden fire. 423 00:41:08,967 --> 00:41:11,720 Here, the reality of death is on full view, 424 00:41:11,887 --> 00:41:16,278 but their grief is the more moving because we all share it. 425 00:41:56,327 --> 00:42:00,286 This morning there can be no more beating about the bush. 426 00:42:00,447 --> 00:42:04,201 We can no longer put off the toughest part of the journey. 427 00:42:04,367 --> 00:42:08,519 The time has come to cross the Himalaya. 428 00:42:10,527 --> 00:42:13,917 We shall drive north across the border 429 00:42:14,087 --> 00:42:16,965 from the land of Maoists to the land of Mao, 430 00:42:17,127 --> 00:42:23,236 turning off the road to Lhasa and making for base camp at the north face of Everest. 431 00:42:27,047 --> 00:42:31,962 The mountains close in and as we round one of the last corners in Nepal, 432 00:42:32,127 --> 00:42:36,837 there at the end of the valley is my first glimpse of Tibet. 433 00:42:39,647 --> 00:42:45,244 But now it's the red flag of China that flies over its frontier. 434 00:42:45,407 --> 00:42:48,126 Well, this is a very special place. 435 00:42:48,287 --> 00:42:54,123 This is Friendship Bridge behind me, which connects Nepal and China. 436 00:42:54,287 --> 00:42:58,678 It's one of only two crossing points in the Himalaya region - 437 00:42:58,847 --> 00:43:03,762 the other is the Khunjerab Pass on the Karakoram Highway, which was blocked. 438 00:43:03,927 --> 00:43:09,047 So this is the only way of getting through the Himalayas on a major route. 439 00:43:09,207 --> 00:43:13,519 Quite why we attempt a rear entry into China I'll never know. 440 00:43:13,687 --> 00:43:16,485 It's all part of the usual border confusion. 441 00:43:16,647 --> 00:43:21,163 Though I may not know where I'm going, I do know what I'm leaving behind. 442 00:43:21,327 --> 00:43:23,682 - Thank you so much. - You're welcome. 443 00:43:23,847 --> 00:43:27,237 Thank you for getting me up there. What happens now? 444 00:43:27,407 --> 00:43:33,004 Wongchu, say goodbye. Don't leave me here! Don't leave me here. 445 00:43:33,167 --> 00:43:39,640 How will I survive without you? What's your last message to me? "Eat food. Always eat." 446 00:43:39,807 --> 00:43:42,640 - Eat and drink. - OK. But no alcohol. 447 00:43:42,807 --> 00:43:45,082 No alcohol in the mountain. 448 00:43:49,767 --> 00:43:54,636 0nce across the border we climb quickly out of the verdant valleys 449 00:43:54,807 --> 00:43:59,801 and on to the treeless lunar landscape of the Tibetan Plateau. 450 00:44:03,407 --> 00:44:05,875 They call this the "roof of the world" 451 00:44:06,047 --> 00:44:10,040 and for the next few weeks I won't drop below 13,000 feet. 452 00:44:28,087 --> 00:44:31,079 The prayer flags that mark the high passes show that, 453 00:44:31,247 --> 00:44:37,243 despite efforts by the Chinese in the 1960s and '70s, religion still exists here. 454 00:44:37,407 --> 00:44:41,400 What no longer exists is a country called Tibet. 455 00:44:41,567 --> 00:44:45,799 We are now in what is officially the "Tibet Autonomous Region" - 456 00:44:45,967 --> 00:44:49,676 a part of the People's Republic of China. 457 00:44:49,847 --> 00:44:53,635 Whatever you call it, it's a land of superlatives. 458 00:44:53,807 --> 00:44:55,479 Wow! 459 00:44:56,687 --> 00:44:59,884 Look at that. (LAUGHS) 460 00:45:00,047 --> 00:45:01,605 Wow! 461 00:45:01,767 --> 00:45:05,760 Well, great moment - my first view of Everest, 462 00:45:05,927 --> 00:45:09,920 apart from photos in restaurants and things like that. 463 00:45:10,087 --> 00:45:13,762 And just the most glorious, mighty view. 464 00:45:13,927 --> 00:45:17,886 It's the very heart of the Himalayas out there. 465 00:45:18,047 --> 00:45:22,484 Giant mountains - four or five of them over 8,000 metres. 466 00:45:22,647 --> 00:45:26,799 And Everest there just slightly touched by the cloud. 467 00:45:27,847 --> 00:45:33,205 But absolutely epic. It really does make it all worthwhile. 468 00:45:33,367 --> 00:45:36,518 It's also the highest I've ever been in my life. 469 00:45:36,687 --> 00:45:42,876 I'm at about 5,300 metres now, which is over 17,000 feet. 470 00:45:43,047 --> 00:45:44,844 So a big first. 471 00:45:45,007 --> 00:45:48,204 And the sun's shining! Unbelievable. 472 00:45:48,367 --> 00:45:51,359 Now all we've got to do is get there. 473 00:45:57,607 --> 00:46:00,201 Everything is abruptly different up here. 474 00:46:00,367 --> 00:46:03,803 From the buildings - whitewashed in Buddhist style - 475 00:46:03,967 --> 00:46:08,483 to the look of the people - Mongolian rather than Indian. 476 00:46:08,647 --> 00:46:11,207 (HAPPY SINGING) 477 00:46:25,007 --> 00:46:27,999 In one village a festival has just begun. 478 00:46:28,167 --> 00:46:33,605 My Tibetan guide, Migmar, tells me they can go on for days. 479 00:46:44,167 --> 00:46:47,842 So we have to hire some yaks from local people. 480 00:46:48,007 --> 00:46:49,804 - Some yaks? - Yes. 481 00:46:49,967 --> 00:46:53,676 It's been difficult to get permission to film in Tibet 482 00:46:53,847 --> 00:46:56,839 and everything we do will be monitored, 483 00:46:57,007 --> 00:47:02,764 but as Migmar explains our plans, this only adds to the sense of adventure. 484 00:47:02,927 --> 00:47:08,604 Between Everest base camp and the monastery there are eight kilometres, 485 00:47:08,767 --> 00:47:12,601 so we need to hire some yaks from that monastery 486 00:47:12,767 --> 00:47:15,645 to carry our equipment to Everest base camp. 487 00:47:15,807 --> 00:47:18,002 The yaks don't mind the height? 488 00:47:18,167 --> 00:47:21,318 They can survive in very cold, high altitude. 489 00:47:21,487 --> 00:47:25,958 - Yak normally like high altitude. - Yeah. They do. 490 00:47:26,127 --> 00:47:29,802 If they go down, they feeling not so good. 491 00:47:29,967 --> 00:47:32,435 (VEHICLE APPROACHES) 492 00:47:32,607 --> 00:47:35,565 A road takes us close to Everest base camp. 493 00:47:35,727 --> 00:47:42,075 It was built by the Chinese to support their successful ascent of the north face in 1960. 494 00:47:42,247 --> 00:47:46,877 Rongbuk consists of a monastery, half a street, a guesthouse 495 00:47:47,047 --> 00:47:53,122 and an almost unbelievable view of the highest point on the planet. 496 00:47:53,287 --> 00:47:56,279 This is the highest monastery in the world. 497 00:47:56,447 --> 00:48:00,804 It's just been rebuilt to replace a much older one destroyed, 498 00:48:00,967 --> 00:48:06,519 along with thousands of others in Tibet, during the Cultural Revolution. 499 00:48:06,687 --> 00:48:10,123 The monastery is home to 30 monks and 30 nuns. 500 00:48:10,287 --> 00:48:12,755 (LOW CHANTING) 501 00:48:35,727 --> 00:48:38,366 It's hard to imagine what degree of devotion 502 00:48:38,527 --> 00:48:42,805 enables them to survive the bitter cold and isolation up here. 503 00:48:42,967 --> 00:48:47,006 (PALIN) It's a cold, cold place. I've brought you this. 504 00:48:47,167 --> 00:48:51,160 The gift I present to the abbot seems to offer a clue. 505 00:48:54,607 --> 00:48:58,077 It's a Thangka - a painted scroll from Kathmandu. 506 00:48:58,247 --> 00:49:02,445 It depicts the Buddha - the Enlightened 0ne. 507 00:49:09,127 --> 00:49:11,766 They look at it with real affection. 508 00:49:11,927 --> 00:49:16,717 The harder their life, the closer it brings them to an understanding of him. 509 00:49:19,127 --> 00:49:23,166 What Buddha would have made of the guesthouse I don't know. 510 00:49:23,327 --> 00:49:26,399 Run by the monks, it's spartan, to say the least. 511 00:49:26,567 --> 00:49:29,923 The consolation is having Everest as my neighbour. 512 00:49:30,087 --> 00:49:36,242 The weather looks good enough for a climb up to base camp tomorrow - Sunday. 513 00:49:36,407 --> 00:49:40,116 The good news is our transport's arrived. 514 00:49:40,287 --> 00:49:42,755 (FAINT BELLS) 515 00:49:57,767 --> 00:50:02,158 The only problem with being so close to Everest 516 00:50:02,327 --> 00:50:06,240 is that you're very high up and there's very little oxygen 517 00:50:06,407 --> 00:50:09,046 and you have to breathe very hard. 518 00:50:09,207 --> 00:50:13,519 When you're dozing off, suddenly you wake up gasping for breath, 519 00:50:13,687 --> 00:50:15,723 trying to get that oxygen in. 520 00:50:15,887 --> 00:50:19,436 So it's actually bloody uncomfortable at night. 521 00:50:19,607 --> 00:50:21,882 I know Everest is out the window, 522 00:50:22,047 --> 00:50:25,278 but I'd exchange it for something two foot off the ground 523 00:50:25,447 --> 00:50:28,757 if it had showers and a flushing toilet. 524 00:50:52,087 --> 00:50:55,079 Conditions next morning are perfect. 525 00:50:59,607 --> 00:51:05,955 Prayers for our safety have been hung up to be carried with the wind up to the gods. 526 00:51:09,327 --> 00:51:12,319 I find walking quite an effort at this height, 527 00:51:12,487 --> 00:51:18,278 but as we head towards Everest, I've a feeling that adrenaline will overcome altitude. 528 00:51:58,207 --> 00:52:01,836 I don't know if it's the yaks or the Everest effect 529 00:52:02,007 --> 00:52:06,478 or the fact that I don't have a cold, but I'm rather enjoying this. 530 00:52:06,647 --> 00:52:10,003 We're higher than at Annapurna and I'm feeling good. 531 00:52:10,167 --> 00:52:14,638 So I think I'll go a little further up Everest, as they say. See you. 532 00:52:15,847 --> 00:52:17,838 Hang on! 533 00:52:23,447 --> 00:52:28,441 (GUIDES CALL AND WHISTLE AT YAKS) 534 00:52:42,087 --> 00:52:46,080 Sunday lunch is taken at a little over 17,000 feet. 535 00:52:55,927 --> 00:52:59,203 (MIGMAR) This is what we call black tea. 536 00:52:59,367 --> 00:53:01,517 And sampa and butter. 537 00:53:01,687 --> 00:53:04,155 They are leading very simple life. 538 00:53:04,327 --> 00:53:07,524 In countryside or here it's same like this. 539 00:53:07,687 --> 00:53:12,477 Breakfast, lunch and dinner almost all we have is sampa. 540 00:53:12,647 --> 00:53:14,922 - What's sampa? Oh, barley. - Barley. 541 00:53:15,087 --> 00:53:18,238 Does that make a drink or to eat? 542 00:53:18,407 --> 00:53:22,764 - To eat. Here's black tea. - Thank you. 543 00:53:25,847 --> 00:53:30,796 - Would you like some yak butter? - Yak butter in it? Yes. 544 00:53:31,807 --> 00:53:34,958 I'll have a bit of yak butter. 545 00:53:35,127 --> 00:53:39,723 Does it make it taste better or taste worse? 546 00:53:42,447 --> 00:53:44,165 Thank you. 547 00:53:45,647 --> 00:53:50,004 Cheers to you all. Thanks, guys, very much, 548 00:53:50,167 --> 00:53:53,125 for getting us up this far. 549 00:53:53,287 --> 00:53:55,881 I don't think much further for me. 550 00:53:56,047 --> 00:53:59,596 - Mmm. - Nice? 551 00:53:59,767 --> 00:54:03,555 Yes, it's good, actually. It's salty. Salty tea. 552 00:54:08,447 --> 00:54:14,682 Do these guys have anything other than tea that warms them up on the way? 553 00:54:14,847 --> 00:54:19,523 They have some chang here. Barley beer. 554 00:54:19,687 --> 00:54:21,598 - Barley beer. - Chang. 555 00:54:21,767 --> 00:54:25,362 Is it good? The tea was good. 556 00:54:25,527 --> 00:54:27,995 - Would you like to try? - Yeah. 557 00:54:29,007 --> 00:54:31,475 A rather attractive bottle. 558 00:54:33,207 --> 00:54:37,041 So this is made of barley? Fermented barley. 559 00:54:40,007 --> 00:54:43,636 Right. Lovely. A bit of chang. OK. Cheers. 560 00:54:43,807 --> 00:54:47,959 Down the hatch. Bottoms up, as they say in the Sahara. 561 00:54:49,967 --> 00:54:51,764 Wow. 562 00:54:52,767 --> 00:54:55,600 Oh... Mmm. 563 00:54:55,767 --> 00:54:59,555 It's very cold. Cold and strong and quite appley. 564 00:54:59,727 --> 00:55:02,844 What do you think I am, an alcoholic? 565 00:55:06,487 --> 00:55:10,002 - Usually we do this. - (PALIN) What do you do? 566 00:55:10,167 --> 00:55:12,442 First, this is for Buddha. 567 00:55:12,607 --> 00:55:18,079 Second for God. Third one for heaven. Then you can... 568 00:55:18,247 --> 00:55:20,238 - Three times. - OK. 569 00:55:21,247 --> 00:55:25,001 - The first one for Qomolangma. - I should take my gloves off. 570 00:55:25,167 --> 00:55:30,525 First one for Qomolangma, which is what the Tibetans call Everest. 571 00:55:30,687 --> 00:55:33,121 Qomolangma. OK? 572 00:55:34,647 --> 00:55:36,956 - Next one for Buddha? - Yeah. 573 00:55:37,127 --> 00:55:40,881 - For Buddha, the great Buddha. - Third one for humans. 574 00:55:41,047 --> 00:55:44,835 For humans? Third one for human beings. 575 00:55:45,927 --> 00:55:48,680 Right. And then drink. 576 00:55:52,247 --> 00:55:57,082 Ah. That's great. It's like a sort of appley ginger beer. 577 00:55:57,247 --> 00:56:01,286 - It doesn't feel strong. Is it strong? - Very strong. 578 00:56:17,247 --> 00:56:23,197 One of the great events of my childhood was the conquest of Everest in 1953, 579 00:56:23,367 --> 00:56:26,996 but I can remember being even more fascinated by the idea 580 00:56:27,167 --> 00:56:31,240 that Everest might have been climbed 30 years before. 581 00:56:31,407 --> 00:56:34,683 In 1924, a guy called George Mallory 582 00:56:34,847 --> 00:56:39,159 made base camp here for an attempt on the north face of Everest. 583 00:56:39,327 --> 00:56:44,162 A few weeks later, he and his partner, Andrew Irvine, were observed 584 00:56:44,327 --> 00:56:48,843 disappearing into a cloud a few hundred yards from the summit. 585 00:56:49,007 --> 00:56:52,477 Neither of them were ever seen again. 586 00:56:52,647 --> 00:56:57,437 It's one of the great mysteries - did they climb Everest in 1924? 587 00:56:57,607 --> 00:57:01,282 I'm not going to attempt anything like that. 588 00:57:01,447 --> 00:57:06,521 I think I'll call it quits here at Everest base camp. 589 00:57:06,687 --> 00:57:13,035 But the yak herders are such lovely people that we might just tag along for a bit. 590 00:57:40,287 --> 00:57:43,279 Much has been written of the lure of Everest 591 00:57:43,447 --> 00:57:46,120 and though I don't have the energy to dance, 592 00:57:46,287 --> 00:57:51,281 I do feel a quickening of the heart the closer we come to the mountain. 593 00:57:51,447 --> 00:57:57,124 It's easier if we forget that Everest was named after a Victorian map-maker 594 00:57:57,287 --> 00:58:00,723 and call this mighty mountain by her Tibetan name. 595 00:58:00,887 --> 00:58:04,357 Qomolangma - Goddess Mother of the Earth. 596 00:58:22,167 --> 00:58:26,160 Next time on "Himalaya", I cross the Tibetan Plateau. 597 00:58:26,327 --> 00:58:29,319 See inside great monasteries. 598 00:58:30,607 --> 00:58:33,326 Land up in Lhasa, a forbidden city. 599 00:58:33,487 --> 00:58:38,402 Watch kung fu debating and spinning prayer wheels. 600 00:58:38,567 --> 00:58:41,320 Attempt a builder's line dance. 601 00:58:41,487 --> 00:58:44,240 Icy pilgrims. 602 00:58:44,407 --> 00:58:47,160 Holy lakes on the roof of the world. 603 00:58:47,327 --> 00:58:52,845 Tibet's equivalent of the Eurovision Song Contest. And all the fun of the horse fair. 604 00:58:53,007 --> 00:58:55,760 "Himalaya" - entertainment at the highest level.