1 00:00:07,287 --> 00:00:10,916 "Then they came in sight. Eight bulls galloping along, 2 00:00:11,087 --> 00:00:14,557 "full tilt, heavy set, black, glistening, sinister, 3 00:00:14,727 --> 00:00:17,161 "their horns bare, tossing their heads, 4 00:00:17,327 --> 00:00:20,524 "and ahead of them sprinted, tore, ran and bolted 5 00:00:20,687 --> 00:00:23,918 "the rear guard of the men and boys of Pamplona." 6 00:00:25,287 --> 00:00:28,882 When I first read Hemingway, I was a teenager living in Sheffield 7 00:00:29,047 --> 00:00:33,598 and the furthest I'd travelled was here to Suffolk for the annual holiday. 8 00:00:33,767 --> 00:00:36,998 Something about Hemingway struck a chord in me. 9 00:00:37,167 --> 00:00:42,685 I think it's because he brought places to life - places I'd never been to before. 10 00:00:42,847 --> 00:00:48,524 He managed to create a world which, if you were bold enough, could be your world too. 11 00:00:48,687 --> 00:00:52,441 Not that I was bold. After two weeks I went back to Sheffield. 12 00:00:52,607 --> 00:00:58,398 But he'd sown the seed and I just couldn't get him out of my mind. 13 00:01:46,127 --> 00:01:48,641 (LOWING) 14 00:02:01,607 --> 00:02:03,598 Aagh! 15 00:02:09,767 --> 00:02:13,282 (FAINT CROWD NOISE) 16 00:02:37,807 --> 00:02:42,164 This is Pamplona in July and it's wilder than any dream. 17 00:02:47,727 --> 00:02:51,879 The festival of San Fermiín used to be an intimate, local affair. 18 00:02:52,047 --> 00:02:55,881 Now, every July, a vast army of pleasure seekers 19 00:02:56,047 --> 00:03:00,359 invades this modest north Spanish city to join the celebrations. 20 00:03:10,687 --> 00:03:13,281 There's the man who started it all. Ernest. 21 00:03:14,647 --> 00:03:19,516 It was a Hemingway novel that first alerted the world to the festival. 22 00:03:21,567 --> 00:03:24,365 And Pamplona has cleaned up ever since. 23 00:03:27,287 --> 00:03:29,642 30 tonnes of glass on the first day alone. 24 00:03:29,807 --> 00:03:31,604 That's a lot of glass! 25 00:03:31,767 --> 00:03:35,282 The invading army is now a multinational force. 26 00:03:35,447 --> 00:03:37,438 Oh, God! We're Australian. 27 00:03:37,607 --> 00:03:41,202 - (PALIN) Are you going to run with the bulls? - Yeah. 28 00:03:41,367 --> 00:03:44,803 We ran last year, so we know what's going on. 29 00:03:44,967 --> 00:03:48,084 - Were you frightened? - Yeah, I was. 30 00:03:48,247 --> 00:03:51,398 - He was pissing himself. - But I was very drunk. 31 00:03:51,567 --> 00:03:55,606 - And to prove our masculinity to women. - Yeah. 32 00:03:55,767 --> 00:03:57,758 - Prove what? - Masculinity. 33 00:03:57,927 --> 00:04:03,957 - I'm sure you don't need to prove that. - He does. He's got a serious problem. 34 00:04:06,607 --> 00:04:09,724 In "The Sun Also Rises", Hemingway wrote: 35 00:04:09,887 --> 00:04:12,924 "The things that happened could only have happened during a fiesta. 36 00:04:13,087 --> 00:04:17,717 "It seemed as though nothing could have any consequences." 37 00:04:17,887 --> 00:04:23,644 There are three reasons people run - the passage to manhood, an aphrodisiac... 38 00:04:23,807 --> 00:04:25,718 An aphrodisiac? 39 00:04:25,887 --> 00:04:29,436 - Oh, yes. Oh, yes. - Gives a new meaning to "horny". 40 00:04:39,447 --> 00:04:41,165 Not with me. 41 00:04:49,967 --> 00:04:55,200 The tone of the fiesta is set by the spectacle of the running of the bulls. 42 00:04:55,367 --> 00:04:57,756 (SPANISH COMMENTARY ON TV) 43 00:05:01,327 --> 00:05:05,923 Every day for eight days, they run from the edge of town to the bullring, 44 00:05:06,087 --> 00:05:09,079 bringing the city to the edge of hysteria. 45 00:05:12,487 --> 00:05:18,642 The bulls are taken to their pens, leaving the ring to hundreds of amateur bullfighters. 46 00:05:23,087 --> 00:05:25,078 Bulls would be too dangerous, 47 00:05:25,247 --> 00:05:31,322 so frisky cows - their horns taped to avoid inflicting lethal injury - are let loose. 48 00:05:37,767 --> 00:05:43,160 The cows survive the mock bullfight. Harming them is heavily frowned upon. 49 00:05:43,327 --> 00:05:48,242 But I can't survive much more myself. Maybe it's an age thing. 50 00:05:48,407 --> 00:05:52,400 After all, Hemingway was only 24 when he first came here. 51 00:05:54,287 --> 00:05:57,996 And I've got people to meet, places to see. 52 00:06:00,047 --> 00:06:04,404 Spain is the perfect place to set out on the journey I want to make - 53 00:06:04,567 --> 00:06:08,685 to explore those places which Hemingway brought to life for me. 54 00:06:08,847 --> 00:06:12,601 But not just to look at them. To experience the physical side. 55 00:06:12,767 --> 00:06:16,442 To do some of the things that Hemingway liked to do. 56 00:06:16,607 --> 00:06:19,519 Which could be dangerous. 57 00:06:19,687 --> 00:06:22,155 But I'm game... if you are. 58 00:06:30,407 --> 00:06:35,800 Hemingway was 27 when "The Sun Also Rises" became his first best-seller. 59 00:06:37,367 --> 00:06:42,282 He started writing it on a trip to the Mediterranean city of Valencia. 60 00:06:52,087 --> 00:06:54,885 Hemingway, brought up like me in sheltered suburbs, 61 00:06:55,047 --> 00:06:59,802 found something in Spain which he lacked - a hard, passionate way of life. 62 00:06:59,967 --> 00:07:05,325 Nothing embodied this more than the bullfight, which is what he was going to Valencia to see. 63 00:07:25,127 --> 00:07:28,244 - The bullring is... - Michael? Michael Palin? 64 00:07:28,407 --> 00:07:31,001 - Yeah. - How are you? 65 00:07:31,167 --> 00:07:34,239 I'm just doing a bit of film. OK? 66 00:07:34,407 --> 00:07:39,561 The bullring's behind me. In order to understand more about bullfight... 67 00:07:39,727 --> 00:07:44,084 ...bullfighting, I want to try and meet a bullfighter. 68 00:07:44,247 --> 00:07:48,763 - But bullfighting is a very conservative... - But, Michael... 69 00:07:48,927 --> 00:07:51,521 ...very traditional world. - I know a bullfighter. 70 00:07:51,687 --> 00:07:56,124 - You want me to introduce you to a bullfighter? - Oh, that's great. 71 00:07:56,287 --> 00:08:00,075 There's a place over there and he's one of the guys from here. 72 00:08:00,247 --> 00:08:03,364 - Is he going to be fighting here? - He is. 73 00:08:03,527 --> 00:08:07,361 My friend may have known me from a show I did 30 years ago, 74 00:08:07,527 --> 00:08:10,485 but he also knows Vicente Barrera - 75 00:08:10,647 --> 00:08:14,003 a local boy and one of Spain's top ten matadors 76 00:08:14,167 --> 00:08:16,727 who's fighting here in two days' time. 77 00:08:16,887 --> 00:08:19,037 - Vicente. - Robert. 78 00:08:20,327 --> 00:08:22,682 Quiero presentarte a un amigo mio. 79 00:08:22,847 --> 00:08:26,965 Michael Palin. We're doing a programme about Hemingway. 80 00:08:27,127 --> 00:08:30,642 - We want to know about bullfighting. - OK. 81 00:08:30,807 --> 00:08:34,846 Why did you decide to become a bullfighter? 82 00:08:36,327 --> 00:08:39,683 It was evident because I think it's... 83 00:08:39,847 --> 00:08:45,285 I think, for me, it's the most important thing that you can do in your life. 84 00:08:45,447 --> 00:08:48,359 I think that after to be Pope, 85 00:08:48,527 --> 00:08:51,997 I think it's the most important thing you can be. 86 00:08:52,167 --> 00:08:56,319 To be with that animal, so big, so brave... 87 00:08:56,487 --> 00:08:59,638 so strong. 88 00:08:59,807 --> 00:09:01,160 Huge. 89 00:09:01,327 --> 00:09:09,041 And to be there and ha! To be able to see the bull behind you, so near from you. 90 00:09:09,207 --> 00:09:13,917 When you're in the ring with the bull, do you respect the bull? 91 00:09:14,087 --> 00:09:16,920 Of course. I think we, the Spanish people, 92 00:09:17,087 --> 00:09:21,922 are the people in the world who more respect the bull. 93 00:09:22,087 --> 00:09:27,878 For us it's like... the sacred animal is the brave bull. 94 00:09:28,047 --> 00:09:33,201 But people who find bullfighting cruel would say, 95 00:09:33,367 --> 00:09:38,999 "How can you have something that is sacred and that you respect and yet you kill it?" 96 00:09:39,167 --> 00:09:42,603 How would you reply to people who say that? 97 00:09:42,767 --> 00:09:45,235 It's very long to explain that. 98 00:09:45,407 --> 00:09:49,480 We are feeding the bull, we are living all the day with the bull, 99 00:09:49,647 --> 00:09:52,480 we are all the day speaking about the bull. 100 00:09:52,647 --> 00:09:59,280 What can say a person in New York in an office about the bull? Eh? 101 00:09:59,447 --> 00:10:02,280 He loves the bull and I don't? 102 00:10:02,447 --> 00:10:06,281 I love the bull, not him. All in Spain you'll find that. 103 00:10:06,447 --> 00:10:08,517 Yes, I understand. 104 00:10:08,687 --> 00:10:14,000 So the moment when your sword goes in and you kill the bull, 105 00:10:14,167 --> 00:10:17,159 do you feel sort of sad for that? 106 00:10:17,327 --> 00:10:20,876 It's not sad. When you eat fish, are you sad? 107 00:10:21,047 --> 00:10:24,198 You know what is to die? 108 00:10:24,367 --> 00:10:29,760 And the fish brought out of the water and aagh! That is horrible. 109 00:10:29,927 --> 00:10:35,206 Do you feel sad when you eat fish, for example, or when you eat this? 110 00:10:35,367 --> 00:10:36,846 - No. - OK. 111 00:10:37,007 --> 00:10:41,603 - Have you ever been hurt? - Sure. Many times. 112 00:10:41,767 --> 00:10:45,840 - And you still carry on fighting. - That's my life. 113 00:10:46,007 --> 00:10:49,795 - And now I'm sorry, but I must go. - I know. Thank you. 114 00:10:49,967 --> 00:10:53,960 - Appreciate you talking to us. - Glad to meet you. 115 00:10:54,127 --> 00:10:56,561 (SPEAK SPANISH) 116 00:10:56,727 --> 00:10:59,036 OK. Bye. 117 00:10:59,207 --> 00:11:01,482 - He's a nice guy. - Yes. 118 00:11:01,647 --> 00:11:05,196 - Not at all violent. - Is he supposed to be violent? 119 00:11:05,367 --> 00:11:09,724 No. I think there's an archetypal image of bullfighters 120 00:11:10,727 --> 00:11:14,003 These are good. What are they? 121 00:11:14,167 --> 00:11:16,556 - What you're eating now? - Yeah. 122 00:11:16,727 --> 00:11:19,639 - Those are bull's testicles. - Bull's testicles? 123 00:11:19,807 --> 00:11:22,719 - Yes, sir. - Hm. 124 00:11:25,167 --> 00:11:31,003 Hemingway made sure he knew all about bullfighting. I decided to start at the beginning. 125 00:11:45,287 --> 00:11:49,439 My tutor at this school for bullfighters is Fabian, a Mexican. 126 00:11:49,607 --> 00:11:52,917 He's 18 and has seen off 20 bulls already. 127 00:11:55,127 --> 00:12:00,406 What was it like when it wasn't a bicycle but an actual bull the first time? 128 00:12:00,567 --> 00:12:02,603 - Were you very frightened? - Yes. 129 00:12:02,767 --> 00:12:06,965 You have fear and you are nervous. 130 00:12:07,127 --> 00:12:10,756 I have fear of the bicycle. That is very serious. 131 00:12:15,247 --> 00:12:18,557 With your hand you put it here, like this. 132 00:12:18,727 --> 00:12:20,877 - That's important? - Very important. 133 00:12:21,047 --> 00:12:26,280 - Why is that? - So people can see that you are strong. 134 00:12:26,447 --> 00:12:29,325 (PALIN) Not helplessly scared. 135 00:12:29,487 --> 00:12:35,198 It's a sign of confidence. I don't care if this bull's coming straight at me. OK. 136 00:12:35,367 --> 00:12:40,487 The horn is passing fairly close to my... vital bits there. 137 00:12:40,647 --> 00:12:43,957 - Then put it like this... - And bring it back. 138 00:12:45,527 --> 00:12:49,805 - Like that. - Is that the aim of a skilful fighter? 139 00:12:49,967 --> 00:12:55,883 To bring the bull's head up to make it look active, to make it look strong. 140 00:12:56,047 --> 00:12:58,845 Bullfighting is a young man's game. 141 00:12:59,887 --> 00:13:05,280 Even then, Fabian reckons only one of these 30 apprentices will ever make it. 142 00:13:05,447 --> 00:13:07,881 (FAINT CROWD NOISE) 143 00:13:10,607 --> 00:13:16,000 In Valencia, as in Pamplona, the bullfight is only one part of a grand fiesta. 144 00:13:16,167 --> 00:13:20,160 Here they have a firework display unlike any other. 145 00:13:22,327 --> 00:13:25,478 It takes place at two o'clock in the afternoon. 146 00:13:33,287 --> 00:13:36,085 (LOUD EXPLOSIONS) 147 00:13:44,087 --> 00:13:48,080 This is a phenomenon peculiar to Valencia... 148 00:13:48,247 --> 00:13:50,807 (EXPLOSIONS CONTINUE) 149 00:13:51,807 --> 00:13:54,446 This is a phenomenon... Shut up! 150 00:13:54,607 --> 00:14:00,079 This is a phenomenon peculiar to Valencia and it's a celebration of noise. 151 00:14:00,247 --> 00:14:03,922 Each firework company... Oh, just film it. 152 00:14:05,727 --> 00:14:10,517 In case you didn't catch all of that, this is what they call "mascletá". 153 00:14:10,687 --> 00:14:15,078 A symphony for explosives, a competition between firework families 154 00:14:15,247 --> 00:14:19,240 to make a bigger, more beautiful din than anyone else. 155 00:15:09,007 --> 00:15:11,885 If you like noise, this is the place to be. 156 00:15:12,047 --> 00:15:17,519 Michael Palin, the world eardrum-splitting finals, Valencia, Spain. 157 00:15:31,327 --> 00:15:34,364 As the pyrotechnic team are hailed as heroes, 158 00:15:34,527 --> 00:15:38,566 I see if there's anything as unfashionable as peace and quiet 159 00:15:38,727 --> 00:15:41,366 to be found in this city. 160 00:15:41,527 --> 00:15:45,839 I'm in luck. An art-movie house. That should be empty. 161 00:15:50,487 --> 00:15:53,081 - Uno, por favor. - Doscientas. 162 00:15:53,247 --> 00:15:55,761 - ¿Doscientas? Gracias. - De nada. 163 00:15:58,287 --> 00:16:02,246 (EXPLOSIONS AND GUNFIRE) 164 00:16:08,047 --> 00:16:10,686 It's almost as noisy as it is outside. 165 00:16:12,847 --> 00:16:16,601 This is quite a historic film. It's called "Spanish Earth". 166 00:16:16,767 --> 00:16:20,282 It was written by Hemingway for the anti-Fascist cause 167 00:16:20,447 --> 00:16:22,756 in the Spanish Civil War of the 1930s. 168 00:16:22,927 --> 00:16:25,077 Hemingway speaks the commentary. 169 00:16:25,247 --> 00:16:29,320 (HEMINGWAY) The counter-attack is successful. The road is free. 170 00:16:29,487 --> 00:16:33,446 Six men were five, then four were three. 171 00:16:33,607 --> 00:16:36,724 These three stayed, dug in and held the ground, 172 00:16:36,887 --> 00:16:43,201 along with all the other fours and threes and twos that started out as sixes. 173 00:16:43,367 --> 00:16:46,837 Orson Welles suggested some cuts. 174 00:16:47,007 --> 00:16:51,000 Hemingway didn't like that. He called Welles an "effeminate theatrical". 175 00:16:51,167 --> 00:16:53,522 Welles called Hemingway "so big, so strong". 176 00:16:53,687 --> 00:16:57,282 - They set to on the screening room floor... - Sshh! 177 00:16:58,447 --> 00:17:01,757 ...whilst the real fighting took place on the screen. 178 00:17:08,287 --> 00:17:10,847 It's the day of the bullfight. 179 00:17:11,007 --> 00:17:14,363 I take in some of the street life. 180 00:17:14,527 --> 00:17:19,237 Huge papier mâché figures called "fallas" rise on every corner. 181 00:17:19,407 --> 00:17:23,195 A rich, satirical mixture of fact and fantasy. 182 00:17:23,367 --> 00:17:26,916 (PIPE AND DRUMS PLAY) 183 00:17:43,647 --> 00:17:48,721 Each neighbourhood has spent up to a year designing and building their fallas. 184 00:17:48,887 --> 00:17:51,640 There are 700 of them all over the city. 185 00:17:51,807 --> 00:17:57,803 In accordance with ancient tradition, they will all be burnt down at midnight tonight. 186 00:18:19,047 --> 00:18:20,685 (EXPLOSION) 187 00:18:24,207 --> 00:18:27,756 And this being Spain, any extra noise is encouraged. 188 00:18:27,927 --> 00:18:30,282 (EXPLOSIONS) 189 00:19:31,527 --> 00:19:37,318 The summer days are hot, so bullfights don't begin until five in the afternoon. 190 00:19:43,367 --> 00:19:46,996 The fights last 2.5 hours and the seats are concrete, 191 00:19:47,167 --> 00:19:50,125 so cushions are indispensable. 192 00:19:50,287 --> 00:19:55,998 The spectators seem a complete cross section of the public. 193 00:19:59,727 --> 00:20:04,084 This is Hemingway's classic work on bullfighting, "Death in the Afternoon". 194 00:20:04,247 --> 00:20:07,364 And he doesn't absolutely defend it at all costs. 195 00:20:07,527 --> 00:20:10,519 He says, "Whoever reads this can make such a judgment 196 00:20:10,687 --> 00:20:16,000 "when he has seen these things and knows what their reaction to them would be." 197 00:20:16,167 --> 00:20:18,806 Which is what I'm doing here. 198 00:20:18,967 --> 00:20:22,721 It has some pictures of Vicente Barreras' grandfather. 199 00:20:22,887 --> 00:20:28,678 Hemingway was critical of his fighting. We'll see what his grandson can do today. 200 00:20:35,647 --> 00:20:39,117 Three matadors each have to fight two bulls. 201 00:20:42,167 --> 00:20:46,797 Vicente's first bull weighs in at 1,300 pounds. 202 00:20:51,367 --> 00:20:53,961 The bull is weakened by picadors on horseback 203 00:20:54,127 --> 00:20:59,201 and the harpoon-like sticks of the banderilleros before the matador takes over. 204 00:21:05,527 --> 00:21:08,087 Every move in the ring is dangerous, 205 00:21:08,247 --> 00:21:11,956 but for me this is the least acceptable part of the fight. 206 00:21:20,807 --> 00:21:24,436 Now it's a contest between one man and one bull. 207 00:21:24,607 --> 00:21:28,520 Vicente goes close enough to risk his life out there, 208 00:21:28,687 --> 00:21:32,680 and the closer he goes, the more his home crowd urges him on. 209 00:21:32,847 --> 00:21:36,522 (CROWD) Olé! Olé! 210 00:21:37,727 --> 00:21:39,080 Olé! 211 00:21:43,327 --> 00:21:45,761 If Vicente survives this bull, 212 00:21:45,927 --> 00:21:51,001 he has another to fight this afternoon, two more tomorrow - 200 in a season. 213 00:21:52,087 --> 00:21:55,284 For him, facing death is a job. 214 00:21:57,967 --> 00:22:00,925 However much I dislike the early stages of the fight, 215 00:22:01,087 --> 00:22:03,760 I find it impossible not to be affected by the atmosphere 216 00:22:03,927 --> 00:22:07,602 as the contest enters its last and most dangerous stage. 217 00:22:11,847 --> 00:22:14,042 (CROWD) Olé! 218 00:22:19,407 --> 00:22:21,398 Olé! 219 00:22:23,127 --> 00:22:24,924 Olé! 220 00:23:26,087 --> 00:23:29,875 I know better now what drew Hemingway to the bullfight. 221 00:23:30,047 --> 00:23:35,041 For him, to confront death was to experience life at its most intense. 222 00:23:35,207 --> 00:23:37,846 For me, well, it's a Spanish thing. 223 00:23:38,007 --> 00:23:43,525 I shall never feel about it the way they do, and that alone intrigues me. 224 00:23:55,207 --> 00:23:57,801 Midnight on the festival of San José, 225 00:23:57,967 --> 00:24:01,516 and all the effigies so painstakingly constructed 226 00:24:01,687 --> 00:24:04,201 must now be painstakingly destroyed. 227 00:24:21,567 --> 00:24:25,719 It's another way of facing up to death and decay. 228 00:24:25,887 --> 00:24:28,355 If you can't beat it, join it. 229 00:25:18,287 --> 00:25:22,485 The cycle goes on - dust to dust, ashes to ashes. 230 00:25:22,647 --> 00:25:28,244 Tomorrow morning, all over Valencia, they'll sit down to plan next year's festival. 231 00:25:31,207 --> 00:25:35,598 Hemingway's passion for bullfighting was equalled only by a passion for hunting. 232 00:25:35,767 --> 00:25:40,283 In 1933, this led him almost inevitably to Africa. 233 00:27:06,447 --> 00:27:11,601 These are Hemingway's "green hills of Africa" - the Chyulu Hills in Kenya. 234 00:27:11,767 --> 00:27:17,285 - Nice climate. Is this as hot as it gets? - Yeah. This is the hottest time of year. 235 00:27:17,447 --> 00:27:21,235 For Hemingway, to whom knowing about things was so important, 236 00:27:21,407 --> 00:27:24,444 the expertise and knowledge of a local guide was vital. 237 00:27:24,607 --> 00:27:27,917 He had a great white hunter called Philip Percival. 238 00:27:28,087 --> 00:27:30,157 I have Richard Bonham. 239 00:27:30,327 --> 00:27:37,358 - Have you lived here all your life? - I'm Kenya born. I've been here 13 years. 240 00:27:39,047 --> 00:27:45,236 Richard Bonham is concerned not with hunting animals but saving them. 241 00:27:49,167 --> 00:27:54,161 I assume it is safe to go in. What should I do? 242 00:27:54,327 --> 00:27:56,602 Fine. Lovely coat. 243 00:27:57,607 --> 00:27:59,359 Look at that. 244 00:27:59,527 --> 00:28:02,166 We started with four and lost two very quickly 245 00:28:02,327 --> 00:28:07,959 because they were so far down the road in malnourishment, having been abandoned. 246 00:28:08,127 --> 00:28:11,676 When the female was with him, you wouldn't be able to get close, 247 00:28:11,847 --> 00:28:17,001 but now she's gone, he's a bit lonely and you can actually go up and talk to him. 248 00:28:17,167 --> 00:28:22,480 We've gone out of our way not to let them get too familiar. 249 00:28:22,647 --> 00:28:25,525 - Oh, dear. - Come on, bad boy. 250 00:28:26,567 --> 00:28:32,164 You can tame them, but as we want them to go back to the wild... Come on. 251 00:28:32,327 --> 00:28:35,797 Not sure what to do with a half-tame cheetah. 252 00:28:39,407 --> 00:28:42,240 He hates his hindquarters being touched 253 00:28:42,407 --> 00:28:46,116 because when we handle him, you grab him by the tail. 254 00:28:46,287 --> 00:28:48,278 If you come round to the front. 255 00:28:50,527 --> 00:28:52,518 There we go. 256 00:28:56,167 --> 00:29:00,160 Once you get him by the ear then he mellows right down. 257 00:29:02,047 --> 00:29:05,517 - Can I just? - Make gentle movements. 258 00:29:08,487 --> 00:29:10,523 He's not sure about this. 259 00:29:13,727 --> 00:29:15,718 - (GROWL) - Oh! 260 00:29:17,447 --> 00:29:20,280 - Did he get you? - Just a flesh wound. 261 00:29:21,327 --> 00:29:23,602 He just patted my leg, really. 262 00:29:23,767 --> 00:29:28,045 But I could see that he wasn't happy with me. Happy with you. 263 00:29:28,207 --> 00:29:32,200 What will be his fate? What's going to happen now? 264 00:29:32,367 --> 00:29:37,521 We're waiting for some radio collars. They'll come in the next couple of weeks. 265 00:29:37,687 --> 00:29:42,715 Hopefully, one day he just won't come back, spend the night out, make a kill. 266 00:29:42,887 --> 00:29:45,799 - Your achievement is not to see him again? - Yeah. 267 00:29:54,967 --> 00:30:00,644 Hemingway got very excited when he caught his first view of Mount Kilimanjaro. 268 00:30:00,807 --> 00:30:06,006 It's not surprising. It's the biggest single, free-standing mountain in the world. 269 00:30:06,167 --> 00:30:10,718 20,000 feet high, shaped like that, and it's somewhere in the cloud. 270 00:30:10,887 --> 00:30:14,004 He got excited because you hardly ever see it. 271 00:30:14,167 --> 00:30:18,046 I hope we'll have the Hemingway experience eventually. 272 00:30:18,207 --> 00:30:22,405 It's there beyond the trees. Beautiful, beautiful mountain. 273 00:30:22,567 --> 00:30:25,035 Shaped like that. 274 00:30:29,807 --> 00:30:35,803 To equip myself for seeing Africa, I've actually invested in the Hemingway jacket, 275 00:30:35,967 --> 00:30:40,961 which is produced by the company that actually produced the jackets he used. 276 00:30:41,127 --> 00:30:43,118 They have a bit about Hemingway. 277 00:30:43,287 --> 00:30:47,997 "He didn't just taste life, he bit off big chunks and gnawed on it." 278 00:30:48,167 --> 00:30:51,159 The jacket or life? Anyway... 279 00:30:54,727 --> 00:30:59,847 "We started with our 340 bush poplin, then added a shell pocket. 280 00:31:00,007 --> 00:31:02,316 "Recoil pad. 281 00:31:04,927 --> 00:31:07,919 "Working epaulettes with box stitching. 282 00:31:10,287 --> 00:31:13,359 "Two expandable chest pockets. 283 00:31:13,527 --> 00:31:17,440 "Two huge bellowed cargo pockets for shells. 284 00:31:17,607 --> 00:31:20,644 "And a sleeve pocket for shooting glasses. 285 00:31:22,607 --> 00:31:27,158 "The back has a generous inverted pleat for extra movement 286 00:31:27,327 --> 00:31:31,320 "and the sleeves roll up and secure for warmer weather. 287 00:31:34,287 --> 00:31:36,881 "The elastic bands above each cargo pocket 288 00:31:37,047 --> 00:31:41,916 "keep the jacket from interfering with your mount and swing. 289 00:31:42,087 --> 00:31:45,557 "Roll it up and take it anywhere. Papa did." 290 00:31:51,527 --> 00:31:56,521 Hemingway may have been a walking munitions dump, but at least he did walk. 291 00:31:56,687 --> 00:32:02,796 60 years on, it's unusual for anyone on safari to be allowed out of their vehicles. 292 00:32:02,967 --> 00:32:05,800 Is it quite safe to walk out in the open? 293 00:32:05,967 --> 00:32:08,879 I've been afforded a rare chance to roam, 294 00:32:09,047 --> 00:32:14,963 provided I stay close to my expert guides, Ali and Jackson - a local Masai. 295 00:32:15,127 --> 00:32:19,643 (JACKSON) Some of them don't know how to run away from any wild animals. 296 00:32:20,727 --> 00:32:23,560 How close is it safe to get to these elephants? 297 00:32:23,727 --> 00:32:27,640 Normally you're supposed to walk about 30 metres apart. 298 00:32:27,807 --> 00:32:31,004 This group of elephants is a very peaceful group 299 00:32:31,167 --> 00:32:36,287 because we are walking very close to them and they don't run towards us. 300 00:32:36,447 --> 00:32:39,564 - (PALIN) Can they smell? - Yeah, they smell. 301 00:32:39,727 --> 00:32:45,836 (JACKSON) The wind is blowing towards them. (PALIN) Yes. One's had a look at us now. 302 00:32:46,007 --> 00:32:49,397 - Is that a female or the male? - That's a female. 303 00:32:49,567 --> 00:32:53,799 (PALIN) So they've smelt that we're here, they don't like our smell... 304 00:32:53,967 --> 00:32:58,165 (JACKSON) See how they have their trunks up? That's how they smell. 305 00:32:59,167 --> 00:33:04,639 Not all animals are potentially threatening. I've a soft spot for wildebeest. 306 00:33:10,647 --> 00:33:13,241 What's so special about this hill? 307 00:33:13,407 --> 00:33:17,639 (ALl) It's the highest point in the park. It's an observation hill. 308 00:33:17,807 --> 00:33:22,597 (JACKSON) When you climb up this hill, you make a lot of exercise. 309 00:33:22,767 --> 00:33:29,764 Hemingway was very keen to get out of the cars and walk and keep fit. 310 00:33:29,927 --> 00:33:36,196 He said he had to be like the animals and be able to outwit them by your own physical skill. 311 00:33:37,207 --> 00:33:41,120 - Beautiful view. Look at the elephants. - Elephant over there. 312 00:33:43,447 --> 00:33:45,438 Yeah. I can see them. 313 00:33:53,527 --> 00:34:00,603 Everything looks very safe in this park at the moment - the animals. 314 00:34:00,767 --> 00:34:04,965 What I remember from reading "The Green Hills of Africa" 315 00:34:05,127 --> 00:34:07,960 and these photos here, when he came here, 316 00:34:08,127 --> 00:34:11,881 the animals weren't safe because of the white hunters. 317 00:34:12,047 --> 00:34:16,757 There's Hemingway with his collection of trophies. 318 00:34:16,927 --> 00:34:21,205 - What year was this? - He was quite young. Probably 19... 319 00:34:21,367 --> 00:34:27,203 - 1980s? - No. 1930s. About 1933. 320 00:34:27,367 --> 00:34:32,316 There he is with a fine beast he's just killed. What are those? 321 00:34:32,487 --> 00:34:34,921 - Those are oryx. - Oryx. Yeah. 322 00:34:35,087 --> 00:34:37,601 Do people come to hunt like this now? 323 00:34:37,767 --> 00:34:41,237 Is there any licensed hunting of the animals? 324 00:34:41,407 --> 00:34:44,126 In the national parks, it's not allowed, 325 00:34:44,287 --> 00:34:47,962 but some people will do it in the game ranches. 326 00:34:48,127 --> 00:34:52,962 There are some people who own private ranches. They still allow it. 327 00:34:53,127 --> 00:34:56,597 I see. You pay your money, you kill the animals. 328 00:34:56,767 --> 00:34:59,201 But he wouldn't be able to do this now, 329 00:34:59,367 --> 00:35:04,236 just walk across the plains with a gun and shoot anything that's going. 330 00:35:04,407 --> 00:35:09,276 And here's Ernest having disposed of a lion. Looking suitably dead. 331 00:35:10,287 --> 00:35:13,438 Hunting continued long after Hemingway left, 332 00:35:13,607 --> 00:35:16,724 and the plains are much emptier now than in his day. 333 00:35:16,887 --> 00:35:21,358 So I've been lulled into a dangerously false sense of security, 334 00:35:21,527 --> 00:35:25,406 when Ali spots a stroppy-looking herd of buffalo. 335 00:35:25,567 --> 00:35:31,722 (ALl) Buffalo have taken a lot of lives because they don't give you a warning. 336 00:35:31,887 --> 00:35:37,166 Once they see you coming towards them, they just look at you. 337 00:35:37,327 --> 00:35:40,444 You can see them looking at us. They are not happy. 338 00:35:40,607 --> 00:35:44,486 What will they do? There's one on the end - will he charge us? 339 00:35:44,647 --> 00:35:47,480 He's, er... Yeah. 340 00:35:47,647 --> 00:35:54,086 He's running away. When they run in a big herd like that, they're afraid of people. 341 00:35:54,247 --> 00:35:59,685 But if it's only one - only one bull or two bulls... 342 00:35:59,847 --> 00:36:03,760 Those are very dangerous when they come straight to you. 343 00:36:03,927 --> 00:36:07,636 - This one seems to be coming. - This one is not happy about us. 344 00:36:07,807 --> 00:36:12,483 That's why he keeps on standing behind, ready to fight. 345 00:36:12,647 --> 00:36:15,957 - He's very, very annoyed. - He's a bull. 346 00:36:16,127 --> 00:36:23,283 - He's now trying to get more nervous. - He's certainly making me nervous! 347 00:36:33,887 --> 00:36:37,357 When Hemingway came back to Africa in the 1950s, 348 00:36:37,527 --> 00:36:40,121 he became honorary game warden 349 00:36:40,287 --> 00:36:44,166 in an area disputed between the Masai and the Wakamba tribes. 350 00:36:44,327 --> 00:36:49,481 Richard Bonham is now an honorary game warden in the same area. 351 00:36:49,647 --> 00:36:52,639 He's been told about a group of cattle rustlers 352 00:36:52,807 --> 00:36:57,483 and we're setting out to track them down with armed rangers. 353 00:36:57,647 --> 00:37:00,764 - Watch out. - Look out. Head down. 354 00:37:05,807 --> 00:37:10,278 A long way from anywhere, the truck suddenly pulls to a halt. 355 00:37:15,727 --> 00:37:19,879 - What have they seen? - We've got a report of a snare line here. 356 00:37:20,047 --> 00:37:23,323 We're gonna go down and see if it's still there. 357 00:37:29,287 --> 00:37:33,678 See how these trails are coming up through these hills? 358 00:37:33,847 --> 00:37:37,760 (PALIN) Yes. This is where the animal would normally come anyway? 359 00:37:37,927 --> 00:37:40,725 (BONHAM) You're funnelled into this. 360 00:37:45,007 --> 00:37:49,046 - He's got something there. - What's he found? 361 00:37:49,207 --> 00:37:51,767 There's a snare line up there. 362 00:37:51,927 --> 00:37:56,682 - Do the rangers normally carry rifles? - Out on patrol, all the time. 363 00:37:56,847 --> 00:38:02,285 The game would be coming up or going down and they're blocked by this fence. 364 00:38:02,447 --> 00:38:04,881 The game moving pretty swiftly? 365 00:38:05,047 --> 00:38:09,996 Sometimes, but they don't have to be moving fast to get caught. 366 00:38:10,167 --> 00:38:15,082 - What happens? - It would just come through like this. 367 00:38:15,247 --> 00:38:18,319 - Then it would get caught. - Oh, God. Yeah. 368 00:38:18,487 --> 00:38:21,923 - Then it would just pull. - And it tightens up. 369 00:38:22,087 --> 00:38:27,366 That's not a particularly good example. The more it struggles, the tighter it becomes. 370 00:38:27,527 --> 00:38:31,566 - The poachers finish them off? - That's the horrible thing. 371 00:38:31,727 --> 00:38:36,517 - Sometimes they leave it for 24 hours. - So it's a long? 372 00:38:36,687 --> 00:38:40,885 If it's round the neck, it's quite quick, but if it's the leg... 373 00:38:41,047 --> 00:38:46,724 - Are the poachers around now? - I wouldn't be surprised. 374 00:38:46,887 --> 00:38:53,360 Are they armed? Your rangers, as I say, have rifles. What do the poachers? 375 00:38:53,527 --> 00:38:58,555 They're not armed with firearms, but they've got bows and poisoned arrows. 376 00:38:58,727 --> 00:39:03,039 And one of their poisoned arrows, would that be fatal? 377 00:39:03,207 --> 00:39:05,960 Curtains. Minutes, literally. 378 00:39:06,127 --> 00:39:09,278 Have you ever had a close encounter with a poacher? 379 00:39:09,447 --> 00:39:12,883 I haven't, but these guys have had arrows shot at them. 380 00:39:13,047 --> 00:39:15,356 Luckily no hits. 381 00:39:16,407 --> 00:39:22,198 OK. Shall we get this thing knocked down? They get a bonus for every snare they get. 382 00:39:43,047 --> 00:39:47,040 A group of Masai coming down from the hills has information. 383 00:39:47,207 --> 00:39:51,803 Masai cattle have been taken - probably by Wakamba raiders. 384 00:39:51,967 --> 00:39:54,481 - Have they seen anyone? - Yeah. Poachers. 385 00:39:54,647 --> 00:40:00,165 Between 12 and one, they crossed this valley and went over the hills. 386 00:40:00,327 --> 00:40:03,524 - So we just missed them. - Right. 387 00:40:08,247 --> 00:40:12,684 - They weren't carrying any meat. - No. Bows and arrows? 388 00:40:12,847 --> 00:40:17,204 No. They were carrying miraa - a natural stimulant that grows here, 389 00:40:17,367 --> 00:40:19,358 which they also sell. 390 00:40:19,527 --> 00:40:24,601 - Are you going to follow these guys? - Yeah. We'll go and see what's going on. 391 00:40:24,767 --> 00:40:27,759 (SPEAKS MASAl) 392 00:40:37,407 --> 00:40:39,398 How does the poison work? 393 00:40:39,567 --> 00:40:41,842 Some poisons are a blood coagulant 394 00:40:42,007 --> 00:40:45,682 and then you've got Adenium which is a heart attack. 395 00:40:45,847 --> 00:40:48,566 Now we've got to go quietly 396 00:40:48,727 --> 00:40:53,721 because there's a cave over this hill and there might be people in there. 397 00:40:53,887 --> 00:40:55,206 OK. 398 00:41:03,127 --> 00:41:07,359 - There are some drying racks and a fire. - That's their fire? 399 00:41:10,207 --> 00:41:14,405 Not waiting for us, are they, with a warm cup of tea? 400 00:41:14,567 --> 00:41:16,558 If only. 401 00:41:18,647 --> 00:41:21,241 0ut in the open I felt reasonably safe. 402 00:41:21,407 --> 00:41:25,446 Scrambling down into this dark hole, much less so. 403 00:41:25,607 --> 00:41:27,916 I feel my voice getting higher. 404 00:41:28,087 --> 00:41:32,638 - This their fire? - Yes. It's reasonably fresh. 405 00:41:32,807 --> 00:41:36,197 How many of them would be here, do you reckon? 406 00:41:36,367 --> 00:41:39,962 Normally they're in gangs of five to ten. 407 00:41:40,127 --> 00:41:45,759 They need people to carry the meat. See these racks? That's where they dry the meat. 408 00:41:45,927 --> 00:41:51,126 - And bones of... What's that? - Probably a hartebeest. 409 00:41:51,287 --> 00:41:56,042 - What does this mean? Are they near? - They're a long way ahead of us. 410 00:41:56,207 --> 00:41:58,596 Really? What a relief. 411 00:42:06,007 --> 00:42:08,601 I'm not surprised cattle go missing. 412 00:42:08,767 --> 00:42:13,238 Even large herds are often only guarded by young boys. 413 00:42:22,247 --> 00:42:28,516 Meanwhile, their teenage brothers prepare to go through painful rites of passage. 414 00:42:31,527 --> 00:42:36,965 In this village - or "boma" as the Masai call it - a special festival is being held 415 00:42:37,127 --> 00:42:42,918 to celebrate a circumcision which has just been carried out on a 13-year-old boy. 416 00:42:48,807 --> 00:42:52,641 Was he circumcised by someone within the village? 417 00:42:52,807 --> 00:42:56,482 - Somebody come from outside. - Yeah. Was it painful? 418 00:42:56,647 --> 00:43:00,560 Yes. Extremely painful because they put a knife straight on his body. 419 00:43:00,727 --> 00:43:03,878 Are you supposed to bear this without making any noise? 420 00:43:04,047 --> 00:43:06,641 You're not supposed to move. 421 00:43:06,807 --> 00:43:11,198 You're not supposed to wipe your eyes. You just stay still. 422 00:43:11,367 --> 00:43:13,483 - Absolutely still. - Yeah. 423 00:43:13,647 --> 00:43:16,002 How long is he going to be in there? 424 00:43:16,167 --> 00:43:20,001 He's going to be in pain about two weeks, 425 00:43:20,167 --> 00:43:24,399 but within five days he'll start walking around the village. 426 00:43:26,047 --> 00:43:30,643 Through his pain, the boy is nursed by his mother and grandmother, 427 00:43:30,807 --> 00:43:35,358 who feed him a special mixture of milk and cow's blood. 428 00:43:41,007 --> 00:43:46,525 Then he will be a warrior, like his friends who have already gone through the ceremony. 429 00:43:46,687 --> 00:43:49,599 I asked them what being a warrior involves. 430 00:43:49,767 --> 00:43:55,876 If somebody come in our land without any permission or any reason, 431 00:43:56,047 --> 00:43:59,164 these people are about to... kill. 432 00:43:59,327 --> 00:44:01,921 - Kill? Really? - To kill. 433 00:44:02,087 --> 00:44:04,965 - We asked permission. Don't kill us. - Yeah. 434 00:44:05,127 --> 00:44:08,597 Do you also go out and hunt animals with your spears? 435 00:44:08,767 --> 00:44:13,477 Yeah. If a lion come in this boma to catch us, we are subject to kill them. 436 00:44:13,647 --> 00:44:16,241 What is this made of, this paint? 437 00:44:16,407 --> 00:44:22,198 This can be used only to show the beautifulness 438 00:44:22,367 --> 00:44:24,927 on the ceremony like this now. 439 00:44:25,087 --> 00:44:29,877 It's to make you look beautiful? Who is the most beautiful here? 440 00:44:30,047 --> 00:44:34,996 - We are all beautiful, except you. - That's not fair! 441 00:44:35,167 --> 00:44:37,635 (CHANTING) 442 00:45:00,607 --> 00:45:07,524 That was a great party, and their settlement looks out over Kilimanjaro, so you have a... 443 00:45:08,647 --> 00:45:14,563 ...a wonderful view of the clouds that almost permanently shroud Kilimanjaro. 444 00:45:21,527 --> 00:45:25,361 The great thing about Africa is that you can't hurry anything, 445 00:45:25,527 --> 00:45:30,521 so I might as well go back to the lodge and settle down with a good book. 446 00:45:34,807 --> 00:45:38,197 "Now, being in Africa, I was hungry for more of it. 447 00:45:38,367 --> 00:45:44,158 "The changes of the seasons, the rains with no need to travel, the discomforts, 448 00:45:44,327 --> 00:45:47,717 "the names of the trees, the animals and the birds. 449 00:45:47,887 --> 00:45:51,357 "To know the language and have time to be in it." 450 00:45:53,167 --> 00:45:56,045 It's the discomforts I find the worst. 451 00:45:56,207 --> 00:45:58,880 0h, well. Grin and bear it. 452 00:46:02,127 --> 00:46:07,838 Welcome to my facilities. As you can see, the sense of place is everywhere. 453 00:46:08,007 --> 00:46:11,636 The elephant's-trunk toilet-roll holder. 454 00:46:11,807 --> 00:46:14,275 The Masai lavatory brush. 455 00:46:17,167 --> 00:46:19,635 The zebra toilet mat. 456 00:46:19,807 --> 00:46:23,356 And the hand-carved turtle toilet seat. 457 00:46:25,167 --> 00:46:29,638 All adds up to the total "Out of Africa" lavatory experience. 458 00:46:42,047 --> 00:46:45,562 Ah, peace, perfect peace. 459 00:46:50,127 --> 00:46:52,595 Oi! You! Clear off! 460 00:46:55,647 --> 00:47:00,277 Then, at first light next morning, the unexpected suddenly happened. 461 00:47:00,447 --> 00:47:04,838 That is quite a rare sight. That's the summit of Kilimanjaro. 462 00:47:05,007 --> 00:47:08,920 You can see the snow where the carcass of a leopard was found, 463 00:47:09,087 --> 00:47:13,000 which gave Hemingway the idea for "The Snows of Kilimanjaro". 464 00:47:13,167 --> 00:47:16,762 So feast on that. The real Kilimanjaro, not a prop. 465 00:47:16,927 --> 00:47:19,521 I'll leave you with it for a moment. 466 00:47:36,007 --> 00:47:40,046 "The Snows of Kilimanjaro" ends with the dream of a dying man 467 00:47:40,207 --> 00:47:43,085 flying out of a storm towards the mountain. 468 00:47:43,247 --> 00:47:47,160 "There ahead, all he could see, as wide as all the world, 469 00:47:47,327 --> 00:47:50,046 "great, high and white in the sun, 470 00:47:50,207 --> 00:47:53,517 "was the square top of Kilimanjaro. 471 00:47:53,687 --> 00:47:57,680 "And then he knew that there was where he was going."