1 00:00:39,926 --> 00:00:42,042 Safari life starts early. 2 00:00:42,206 --> 00:00:45,039 As the sun rises over the Masai Mara, 3 00:00:45,206 --> 00:00:48,881 the animal spotter must be on the move. 4 00:00:51,166 --> 00:00:53,726 Like a military operation, 5 00:00:53,886 --> 00:00:58,880 Kalului, my driver, and Wendy, my guide, stalk their prey. 6 00:01:02,486 --> 00:01:06,843 There, beneath a tree - twin symbols of the British Empire, 7 00:01:07,006 --> 00:01:09,566 watching the world go by. 8 00:01:09,726 --> 00:01:15,835 (WENDY) These two fairer ones - this one and that one over there - are obviously brothers. 9 00:01:16,006 --> 00:01:19,999 They've probably been kicked out of the pride six months ago 10 00:01:20,166 --> 00:01:23,238 and they've joined up with this older male. 11 00:01:23,406 --> 00:01:26,364 They won't mature until they're about five. 12 00:01:26,526 --> 00:01:29,757 (PALIN) Are they learning from the older male? 13 00:01:29,926 --> 00:01:35,319 (WENDY) Hopefully he's going to teach them how to behave and become real men! 14 00:01:35,486 --> 00:01:39,479 Lie down all day! Is this how they spend their day? 15 00:01:39,646 --> 00:01:45,004 This is how they spend their day. Later on, they might peruse the menu. 16 00:01:45,166 --> 00:01:48,875 They generally kill after dark. 17 00:01:51,766 --> 00:01:55,076 Life isn't quite as relaxed for the vegetarians. 18 00:01:55,246 --> 00:01:58,363 They have to eat little and often. 19 00:01:58,526 --> 00:02:00,994 (WENDY) He's a fairly young male. 20 00:02:01,166 --> 00:02:06,240 The old males have a very much higher, knobblier bump... 21 00:02:06,406 --> 00:02:09,364 So he's quite a young male. 22 00:02:09,526 --> 00:02:13,041 (PALIN) He's going to go on tiptoe. 23 00:02:13,206 --> 00:02:17,245 (WENDY) You can understand how they keep these trees cropped. 24 00:02:24,086 --> 00:02:26,475 These two... 25 00:02:27,486 --> 00:02:30,717 Almost practising "necking". 26 00:02:32,406 --> 00:02:39,403 That's the way they fight for dominance. They call it necking. 27 00:02:39,566 --> 00:02:45,038 They stand hip to hip and swing their necks into each other. 28 00:02:45,206 --> 00:02:48,243 (PALIN) What predators go for giraffe? 29 00:02:48,406 --> 00:02:51,603 (WENDY) Lion. Leopard don't touch giraffe. 30 00:02:51,766 --> 00:02:57,557 You're doing it the wrong way, kids. You're not supposed to hit them up the backside. 31 00:02:59,726 --> 00:03:03,719 Watching other lives tends to make you forget your own. 32 00:03:03,886 --> 00:03:10,837 But where does a human being find a bite to eat? A&Ksafaris has the answer. 33 00:03:15,246 --> 00:03:17,714 Why is it different colours? 34 00:03:17,886 --> 00:03:20,275 The "0ut 0f Africa" breakfast. 35 00:03:20,446 --> 00:03:22,914 Coffee, please. 36 00:03:23,086 --> 00:03:26,556 Coffee and croissants on the 0lololo Escarpment - 37 00:03:26,726 --> 00:03:29,559 where Robert Redford was once buried. 38 00:03:29,726 --> 00:03:32,923 - Coffee, please. - Green is the burnt grass? 39 00:03:33,086 --> 00:03:35,361 - Yes. - How so? 40 00:03:35,526 --> 00:03:37,596 We've had a bit of rain. 41 00:03:37,766 --> 00:03:43,921 What they do before the rain comes is they burn extensively to get rid of the rank stuff, 42 00:03:44,086 --> 00:03:50,605 and then, of course, as soon as the rain comes, all this green grass pops up. 43 00:03:50,766 --> 00:03:53,963 Why is the Masai Mara unique? 44 00:03:54,126 --> 00:04:00,122 What's unique about the Mara, I suppose, is it's just an extension of the Serengeti. 45 00:04:00,286 --> 00:04:04,882 There's a border between, which is why it's named differently. 46 00:04:05,046 --> 00:04:07,685 Masai Mara means "spotted" 47 00:04:07,846 --> 00:04:13,842 and the Serenget - the correct name for the Serengeti - means "wide, empty place". 48 00:04:14,006 --> 00:04:18,477 - Is anywhere fenced? - No. It's completely open. 49 00:04:18,646 --> 00:04:26,121 The animals don't know about borders and they pop in and out - like the migration. 50 00:04:26,286 --> 00:04:32,600 While we have our egg and bacon, the zebra and antelope have their grass. 51 00:04:32,766 --> 00:04:36,759 And the cheetah have their zebra and antelope. 52 00:04:42,646 --> 00:04:48,960 Lower down the food chain, storks and vultures have their own "0ut 0f Africa" breakfast. 53 00:05:01,886 --> 00:05:06,676 The heavens open and the Masai Mara turns to impassable mud. 54 00:05:06,846 --> 00:05:11,874 We've nothing to do but sit and wait and listen to the sound of smug hippos. 55 00:05:12,046 --> 00:05:15,038 (GRUNTING) 56 00:05:34,646 --> 00:05:38,116 Next morning, we see Kenya from a different angle 57 00:05:38,286 --> 00:05:41,722 in two of the largest hot-air balloons in the world. 58 00:05:44,206 --> 00:05:49,200 Each one stands 90 feet high and carries a dozen people. 59 00:05:57,446 --> 00:06:01,564 - Have you been ballooning before? - This is the height I like! 60 00:06:01,726 --> 00:06:04,524 Most of my basket are American. 61 00:06:04,686 --> 00:06:07,678 - And you went ballooning? - Palm Springs. 62 00:06:07,846 --> 00:06:12,044 - Aspen. Aspen, Colorado. - Aspen? 63 00:06:12,206 --> 00:06:14,674 The pilot is incorrigibly British. 64 00:06:14,846 --> 00:06:18,122 Will we clear the other balloon or not? 65 00:06:33,486 --> 00:06:36,125 Baboon in the tree ahead of us. 66 00:06:41,846 --> 00:06:44,519 It's a grey, gloomy dawn. 67 00:06:44,686 --> 00:06:48,759 As we rise above the Mara River, the first doubts creep in. 68 00:06:48,926 --> 00:06:55,445 - Do we see a lot of game, usually? - Yes. There's waterbuck ahead of us. 69 00:06:56,806 --> 00:07:02,676 The rare appearance of any animal has an electrifying effect on the basket. 70 00:07:02,846 --> 00:07:05,918 - What do you think of it so far? - Wonderful. 71 00:07:06,086 --> 00:07:08,839 - Having fun? - Yes. It's incredible. 72 00:07:10,086 --> 00:07:17,083 I'm gaining a little bit of height and then we can go a little while without putting the burner on. 73 00:07:20,126 --> 00:07:23,801 My spirits, like my hat, are sagging a bit this morning. 74 00:07:23,966 --> 00:07:28,960 It's like a November day in Manchester. I need some of the pilot's enthusiasm. 75 00:07:29,126 --> 00:07:33,039 - How long have you been here, John? - Since 1983. 76 00:07:33,206 --> 00:07:38,326 I came for three months and I've been here eight years. 2,000 champagne breakfasts! 77 00:07:38,486 --> 00:07:41,956 How did you start ballooning? Were you a pilot? 78 00:07:42,126 --> 00:07:47,325 No. I started as a hobby and then I joined a balloon syndicate. 79 00:07:47,486 --> 00:07:52,606 How many hours do you have to have flown before you can pilot this? 80 00:07:52,766 --> 00:07:57,282 We need a minimum of 300 hours as P-One - Pilot In Charge - 81 00:07:57,446 --> 00:08:00,722 before we can actually take anybody. 82 00:08:00,886 --> 00:08:03,400 We've got very big balloons. 83 00:08:03,566 --> 00:08:07,764 It's one of the world's top operations, so we can be choosy. 84 00:08:07,926 --> 00:08:10,679 Why do you have such big balloons? 85 00:08:10,846 --> 00:08:15,636 Conditions are good enough and the experience is good enough. 86 00:08:18,646 --> 00:08:24,437 As the balloons go down, the sun breaks through and the plains come to life. 87 00:08:25,966 --> 00:08:31,836 (PALIN) Do you see cubs smaller than that? (WENDY) Not very often. 88 00:08:32,006 --> 00:08:38,320 In fact, these are the first cubs I've seen this year and it's already October. 89 00:08:38,486 --> 00:08:43,002 That little one has followed Mum. The other three are down there. 90 00:08:43,166 --> 00:08:48,286 - Is that one weaker or stronger? - He's a dominant one. 91 00:08:48,446 --> 00:08:51,483 Could be a male. 92 00:08:51,646 --> 00:08:57,676 When he gets to six or eight months, he's going to show off for the tourists. 93 00:08:57,846 --> 00:09:00,963 They're going down now. 94 00:09:02,486 --> 00:09:05,637 You're going the wrong way, kids. 95 00:09:07,206 --> 00:09:10,198 They're so cute. One of them's very runty. 96 00:09:10,366 --> 00:09:15,201 That small one obviously tried to get up the wrong way. 97 00:09:17,646 --> 00:09:20,638 She may be going to hide them. 98 00:09:24,806 --> 00:09:26,558 Maybe not. 99 00:09:26,726 --> 00:09:29,718 (PALIN) She feels pretty secure. 100 00:09:31,606 --> 00:09:34,837 She's leaving them to their own devices. 101 00:09:35,006 --> 00:09:39,204 Is she just going to leave that one behind? 102 00:09:39,366 --> 00:09:42,164 (WENDY) I hope not. 103 00:09:44,206 --> 00:09:49,360 (PALIN) No, she's going back. They're all going off very purposefully. 104 00:09:49,526 --> 00:09:52,324 (WENDY) She's gone to look for it. 105 00:09:52,486 --> 00:09:56,957 (PALIN) That's a relief. I thought the weak one she'd leave behind. 106 00:09:57,126 --> 00:10:00,835 (WENDY) Very often that's what happens. 107 00:10:02,326 --> 00:10:05,124 (PALIN) She's picked it up. 108 00:10:06,406 --> 00:10:12,720 (WENDY) Isn't that great? I love the way he keeps his feet up. 109 00:10:12,886 --> 00:10:16,879 (PALIN) I suppose he's just enjoying the ride. 110 00:10:17,766 --> 00:10:21,759 She's dropped him. Very summary. Plop. 111 00:10:26,286 --> 00:10:31,121 Extraordinary. Learning trunk technique here. 112 00:10:31,286 --> 00:10:34,164 Look at this. So cute. 113 00:10:34,326 --> 00:10:39,195 Still very close to Mum. Is that because we're here? 114 00:10:39,366 --> 00:10:43,518 - They normally travel like that. - That's a good pair of tusks. 115 00:10:43,686 --> 00:10:50,683 Babies suffer from sunstroke. They always have to be under Mummy's tummy. 116 00:10:51,446 --> 00:10:55,564 - A mud bath? - Wonderful to watch them bathing. 117 00:10:55,726 --> 00:11:01,676 In the dry weather, if they bath, then they seem to dust themselves down with earth. 118 00:11:01,846 --> 00:11:07,159 This is probably to protect their hide and maybe to get rid of parasites. 119 00:11:07,326 --> 00:11:12,241 See? It's washing behind its ear? And now he's rubbing his eye. 120 00:11:13,206 --> 00:11:18,997 - There doesn't seem to be any water. - Just a little puddle. 121 00:11:20,126 --> 00:11:22,117 That's lovely. 122 00:11:25,126 --> 00:11:29,199 It's so funny to see them do that. Look. 123 00:11:32,966 --> 00:11:34,957 Oh, bliss. 124 00:11:37,966 --> 00:11:40,605 The animals are constantly on the move. 125 00:11:40,766 --> 00:11:44,759 These wildebeest head south on their annual migration. 126 00:11:44,926 --> 00:11:49,124 The skill of the driver is to know where they are and why. 127 00:11:49,286 --> 00:11:51,754 Kabagere and Kalului are two of the best. 128 00:11:51,926 --> 00:11:54,599 How old do you have to be to drive? 129 00:11:54,766 --> 00:12:00,238 Now you have to be 24 years to drive a vehicle. Yes. 130 00:12:00,406 --> 00:12:05,196 - That includes private cars? - Yes. Everyone must be 24 years. 131 00:12:05,366 --> 00:12:09,154 - How old are you? - I'm 33 years now. 132 00:12:09,326 --> 00:12:12,602 - Can I ask how old you are? - Me? 133 00:12:12,766 --> 00:12:16,042 - You don't have to answer. - Can you guess? 134 00:12:16,206 --> 00:12:19,994 - Early 40s? - More than 40, my friend. 135 00:12:20,166 --> 00:12:22,999 More than 40. 50? 136 00:12:23,166 --> 00:12:25,600 Guess. Nearly. 137 00:12:25,766 --> 00:12:28,155 - Nearly 50? - Yes. 138 00:12:28,326 --> 00:12:30,635 - All right. - More than 50. 139 00:12:30,806 --> 00:12:34,003 - 52? - Near. 140 00:12:34,166 --> 00:12:37,158 Am I within five years? 141 00:12:39,366 --> 00:12:44,235 I don't know how old because my father has not been at school 142 00:12:44,406 --> 00:12:47,000 and he's not writing when I born. 143 00:12:47,166 --> 00:12:53,036 So I am thinking I am 53 or 54 - between there. 144 00:12:54,486 --> 00:12:58,035 - How old are you? - I'm 48. 145 00:12:58,206 --> 00:13:03,644 - 48? You are very young. - But I don't know as much as you know. 146 00:13:04,646 --> 00:13:10,039 Kalului, this morning when we were going through the wildebeest and zebra, 147 00:13:10,206 --> 00:13:14,484 for the first time I heard the sound of zebras. 148 00:13:14,646 --> 00:13:17,160 What is that sound zebra make? 149 00:13:17,326 --> 00:13:19,681 (KALULUl) The zebras make noise... 150 00:13:19,846 --> 00:13:22,121 (YIPPING) 151 00:13:25,086 --> 00:13:28,283 - That is a zebra. - When they're frightened? 152 00:13:28,446 --> 00:13:33,201 It's because they are scared or sometimes they are warning. 153 00:13:33,366 --> 00:13:36,164 I bet you can't do a hippo. 154 00:13:36,326 --> 00:13:39,398 (GRUNTING YELPS) 155 00:13:42,086 --> 00:13:44,964 (PALIN) There's a lot of... 156 00:13:46,406 --> 00:13:52,083 - They did that all night at the camp. - Always at night. 157 00:13:52,246 --> 00:13:55,158 Kept going to the toilet thinking it was me. 158 00:13:55,326 --> 00:13:57,840 You know the tail in the water? 159 00:13:58,006 --> 00:14:00,520 (SWISHING SOUND) 160 00:14:01,526 --> 00:14:04,359 - Did you hear that? - Yeah. 161 00:14:04,526 --> 00:14:07,962 OK. Last one. Thomson's gazelle. 162 00:14:08,126 --> 00:14:11,118 (IMITATES SPITTING) 163 00:14:11,286 --> 00:14:18,283 You don't want to do it? What's happened to you? Is that really what they do? 164 00:14:18,446 --> 00:14:24,885 Maybe not much sound, but they make noise about warning or they're calling their baby. 165 00:14:25,886 --> 00:14:28,002 What is it again? 166 00:14:31,126 --> 00:14:36,041 Not a very nice way to carry on, is it? No wonder they get eaten. 167 00:14:37,926 --> 00:14:40,918 Like the wildebeest, we must keep moving. 168 00:14:41,086 --> 00:14:43,646 Lake Victoria blocks our way west 169 00:14:43,806 --> 00:14:48,163 and to regain 30 degrees, we must make for Dodoma in Tanzania. 170 00:14:48,326 --> 00:14:52,114 We hope to get a train to the shores of Lake Tanganyika. 171 00:14:52,286 --> 00:14:54,959 It's another thousand miles of detour. 172 00:15:00,246 --> 00:15:03,238 The sight of the border offers encouragement 173 00:15:03,406 --> 00:15:07,922 and also a reminder that travel in Africa can't be rushed. 174 00:15:09,886 --> 00:15:15,085 0n the border we find a group of migrants a long way from their territory. 175 00:15:15,246 --> 00:15:20,081 - Where are you from? - Australia, New Zealand. 176 00:15:20,246 --> 00:15:23,716 Where are you going? Nowhere at the moment! 177 00:15:23,886 --> 00:15:29,006 - Safari, then going home. - Hopefully down to Harare in five weeks. 178 00:15:29,166 --> 00:15:31,805 - In this? - Yeah. We hope! 179 00:15:31,966 --> 00:15:34,844 We've been push-starting it for four days. 180 00:15:35,006 --> 00:15:37,395 - You have food with you? - Yep. 181 00:15:37,566 --> 00:15:40,364 Stale bread. 182 00:15:40,526 --> 00:15:44,314 It's going to get a lot staler. Where did you start from? 183 00:15:44,486 --> 00:15:46,477 Nairobi. 184 00:15:46,646 --> 00:15:51,800 - Is this the holiday of a lifetime? - An adventure! 185 00:15:52,486 --> 00:15:58,322 The driver looks absolutely shattered. How are you? 186 00:15:58,486 --> 00:16:00,761 This is a pretty ancient vehicle. 187 00:16:00,926 --> 00:16:07,764 It's a 1959 M-A-N. German. Built for the Russian Front! 188 00:16:07,926 --> 00:16:13,922 - I don't know how they got as far as they did. - Are you the sort of guide? 189 00:16:14,086 --> 00:16:17,874 - Yeah. Me and Dave here. - Where's Dave? 190 00:16:18,046 --> 00:16:23,200 Dave? I've been away from home a long time! I've forgotten sexual differences! 191 00:16:23,366 --> 00:16:27,041 Hi, Dave. If we can be of help, we will. 192 00:16:27,206 --> 00:16:31,757 - I think we've got it going now. - As long as I don't have to push. 193 00:16:31,926 --> 00:16:37,762 - That's exactly what you have to do. - Really? OK. Just this once. 194 00:16:51,326 --> 00:16:57,162 As the German army pushes forward, so do we - into country number eleven. 195 00:17:00,486 --> 00:17:03,205 I'm immediately endeared to Tanzania. 196 00:17:03,366 --> 00:17:08,156 It's the only country I've been to with its name on the gate. 197 00:17:11,366 --> 00:17:17,601 There's a lot of bureaucracy. It takes four hours to complete our paperwork. 198 00:17:17,766 --> 00:17:20,041 Wendy has stayed in Kenya, 199 00:17:20,206 --> 00:17:25,599 but Kalului has agreed to take us on to the railhead at Dodoma. 200 00:17:25,766 --> 00:17:30,078 0ur route takes us across one of the richest areas of wildlife - 201 00:17:30,246 --> 00:17:32,714 the Serengeti National Park. 202 00:18:00,526 --> 00:18:05,475 It's lunchtime in the Serengeti and wildebeest is dish of the day. 203 00:18:06,686 --> 00:18:09,678 The lions have first choice. 204 00:18:12,166 --> 00:18:15,602 Vultures wait to help with the washing-up. 205 00:18:26,486 --> 00:18:29,478 At least these lions are free to hunt. 206 00:18:29,646 --> 00:18:35,642 Before the National Park was created, anyone with a licence could have shot them. 207 00:18:40,526 --> 00:18:45,680 This is epic country. The Rift Valley is studded with extinct volcanoes. 208 00:18:45,846 --> 00:18:51,204 Here, the earliest evidence of human life has been found. 209 00:18:51,366 --> 00:18:55,154 (COWBELLS CLANG) 210 00:18:56,646 --> 00:19:01,436 Masai cowbells have been described as "the sound of Africa". 211 00:19:01,606 --> 00:19:06,805 Cattle pass along the northern slopes of one of the sights of Africa - 212 00:19:06,966 --> 00:19:10,436 a volcanic crater, 12 and a half miles wide. 213 00:19:13,046 --> 00:19:15,560 That is incredible. 214 00:19:15,726 --> 00:19:21,562 It's a childhood dream. Ever since I could speak my first words of Swahili, 215 00:19:21,726 --> 00:19:25,002 I had to go to the Ngorongoro Crater. 216 00:19:25,166 --> 00:19:31,116 And here I am. Now I'm here, I don't really know what to do with it. 217 00:19:31,286 --> 00:19:33,641 I mean, it is... 218 00:19:33,806 --> 00:19:38,880 It taxes the superlatives. Stupendous, amazing, fantastic. 219 00:19:39,046 --> 00:19:43,164 You can't take it home, so have a look at it, 220 00:19:43,326 --> 00:19:48,116 make up your own word for the Ngorongoro Crater experience. 221 00:19:54,366 --> 00:20:00,077 Not for the first time, I want to stop - to stay here surrounded by these splendours. 222 00:20:00,246 --> 00:20:02,965 Seems ridiculous to say I've a train to catch. 223 00:20:35,806 --> 00:20:41,802 After driving all day on roads of dust and stones, we reach the capital. 224 00:20:41,966 --> 00:20:47,757 Few more exhausted travellers can ever have checked in at the Railway Hotel, Dodoma. 225 00:20:55,366 --> 00:20:58,438 There's nothing wrong with the Railway Hotel. 226 00:20:58,606 --> 00:21:04,158 My mosquito net had holes in it - each big enough for a pterodactyl to get through - 227 00:21:04,326 --> 00:21:07,716 but there was plenty of art and even live music. 228 00:21:07,886 --> 00:21:11,674 (RATHER OUT OF TUNE PIANO) 229 00:21:21,606 --> 00:21:24,598 It's certainly very handy for the shops. 230 00:21:31,086 --> 00:21:34,283 Dodoma city centre is full of things to see. 231 00:21:35,366 --> 00:21:40,599 A road sign reminds us that in Swahili "Polepole" means "Go slowly". 232 00:21:40,766 --> 00:21:43,234 As if we didn't know. 233 00:21:46,566 --> 00:21:50,559 The buildings of Dodoma say a lot about the country. 234 00:21:51,926 --> 00:21:56,442 This is the Tanzanian parliament - modest and accessible. 235 00:22:00,766 --> 00:22:04,554 But dwarfing everything are the Christian cathedrals. 236 00:22:04,726 --> 00:22:07,684 Religion seems to be a growth industry - 237 00:22:07,846 --> 00:22:12,124 one form of foreign investment the government has no qualms about. 238 00:22:14,486 --> 00:22:18,957 0ur train should have left Dar Es Salaam 24 hours ago. 239 00:22:24,766 --> 00:22:30,875 No one seems to know where it is. For us, it's an absolutely vital connection. 240 00:22:33,566 --> 00:22:38,037 From here we make a sharp change of course back to 30 degrees 241 00:22:38,206 --> 00:22:41,835 to Lake Tanganyika and the heart of Africa. 242 00:23:11,086 --> 00:23:15,841 As soon as the train comes to a halt, activity erupts around it. 243 00:23:16,006 --> 00:23:18,440 The station becomes a market. 244 00:23:18,606 --> 00:23:21,882 (LOUD VOICES) 245 00:23:30,366 --> 00:23:35,520 It's hot, noisy and confusing - not the best time to leave friends behind. 246 00:23:35,686 --> 00:23:40,840 Cheers, Kabagere. Thank you very much for driving us and putting up with us. 247 00:23:41,006 --> 00:23:46,364 - It's a long way you came with us. - We wish you a very good journey. 248 00:23:46,526 --> 00:23:49,836 - Find a nice girl! - Oh, yes! 249 00:23:50,006 --> 00:23:54,796 - Kalului, thanks ever so much. - Sorry for bumping you. 250 00:23:54,966 --> 00:23:58,925 You must tell the road menders. I've got something for you. 251 00:23:59,086 --> 00:24:03,921 You said you wanted a map. Have that. I'll ask. Someone will know the way. 252 00:24:04,086 --> 00:24:06,520 Bye. Thanks very much. 253 00:24:06,686 --> 00:24:09,996 0ne driver has just been to hospital with malaria. 254 00:24:10,166 --> 00:24:13,317 Are you OK? Take care. Thanks very much. 255 00:24:13,486 --> 00:24:17,684 - We'll miss you. - Have a good time. 256 00:24:17,846 --> 00:24:20,838 Safe journey back. Mind the bumps. 257 00:24:21,006 --> 00:24:22,644 Bye. 258 00:24:30,006 --> 00:24:34,716 There's a whole lot of unit luggage in here! That's why I can't get on. 259 00:24:34,886 --> 00:24:39,880 Luggage, four chickens and three ladies from the Christian Mission. 260 00:25:00,926 --> 00:25:03,156 Dodoma slips away. 261 00:25:03,326 --> 00:25:07,638 The bush closes in - dry and empty, apart from the odd cathedral. 262 00:25:14,566 --> 00:25:16,557 The restaurant car's packed. 263 00:25:16,726 --> 00:25:22,278 These travellers are the elite of Tanzania - civil servants, doctors, footballers. 264 00:25:22,446 --> 00:25:25,916 - What team do you play for? - Now? CDA. 265 00:25:26,086 --> 00:25:30,557 CDA. Do you have divisions like a sort of? 266 00:25:30,726 --> 00:25:33,718 - Second division. - Second division. 267 00:25:35,766 --> 00:25:39,475 That's a mean-looking fish. What is this fish? 268 00:25:39,646 --> 00:25:43,321 - I don't know. - Just eat it and see. 269 00:25:43,486 --> 00:25:48,879 He tells me that CDA stands for "Capital Development Authority". 270 00:25:49,046 --> 00:25:52,482 Not an easy one to chant on the terraces. 271 00:25:52,646 --> 00:25:58,323 The fish is quite edible - if you've a degree in microsurgery. 272 00:26:10,166 --> 00:26:14,796 I thought it was the tea for a minute. Do you serve tea? Chai? 273 00:26:14,966 --> 00:26:16,957 No chai? 274 00:26:17,126 --> 00:26:20,243 - Harold? - Harold? 275 00:26:22,326 --> 00:26:23,884 Harold! 276 00:26:26,806 --> 00:26:29,718 Do me some tea? 277 00:26:29,886 --> 00:26:33,720 He's going to get some? Very good. Thank you. 278 00:26:35,366 --> 00:26:40,520 One tea, no sugar. That's lovely. Thank you very much. 279 00:26:45,566 --> 00:26:47,557 Lovely. 280 00:26:54,126 --> 00:26:56,117 That's better. 281 00:27:05,126 --> 00:27:10,598 I find myself pleasantly surprised by a choice of toilet facilities. 282 00:27:10,766 --> 00:27:15,237 "Lavatory. High Type." This is my type, for Europeans. 283 00:27:19,126 --> 00:27:23,483 There's nothing there. It's not there. There's not a single thing. 284 00:27:23,646 --> 00:27:26,638 It's vanished, gone. Have a look. 285 00:27:33,286 --> 00:27:35,880 Not a sausage! 286 00:27:36,046 --> 00:27:41,040 Well, it's the Low Type for me. I always prefer the Low Type. 287 00:27:51,446 --> 00:27:53,914 Go away. 288 00:28:30,486 --> 00:28:35,480 18 hours into the journey and I'm still looking for the High Type. 289 00:28:39,326 --> 00:28:45,515 The train, like most African trains, is a continuation of life at home. 290 00:28:45,686 --> 00:28:52,239 0n our journey, a baby girl is born in the restaurant - the best thing they produce. 291 00:28:53,286 --> 00:28:57,279 The train is the only way of crossing the country. 292 00:28:57,446 --> 00:29:01,280 There are no roads, only hundreds of miles of swamp. 293 00:29:20,926 --> 00:29:25,317 At every station, however remote, our arrival is a major event 294 00:29:25,486 --> 00:29:28,046 and a major boost for local business. 295 00:29:44,966 --> 00:29:49,562 Boys click money at me. Men click mousetraps. 296 00:29:52,086 --> 00:29:54,884 I need one for my room! 297 00:30:02,566 --> 00:30:07,640 You could probably find a pair of Cup Final tickets. 298 00:30:47,606 --> 00:30:52,396 We're close to the centre of Africa. It's not at all how I imagined it. 299 00:30:52,566 --> 00:30:57,435 Where are the jungles and the drums and the shadows amongst the trees? 300 00:31:04,486 --> 00:31:10,959 Lake Tanganyika could well be a Scottish loch, give or take the odd banana tree. 301 00:31:11,126 --> 00:31:15,961 Perhaps Darkest Africa was just a state of mind. 302 00:31:35,286 --> 00:31:39,279 Journey's end - 27 hours after leaving Dodoma. 303 00:31:39,446 --> 00:31:44,839 I never did find the High Type, or a water supply, or a fan that worked. 304 00:31:45,006 --> 00:31:51,605 In fact, I feel like a used paper bag. But it's where I am that's important. 305 00:31:51,766 --> 00:31:54,883 This is a major milestone. This is Kigoma. 306 00:31:55,046 --> 00:32:01,440 We've completed a huge month-long arc from Khartoum to get us back to 30 degrees. 307 00:32:01,606 --> 00:32:08,364 We're on 30 degrees - a bit late, but not late enough to miss the boat, which leaves soon. 308 00:32:08,526 --> 00:32:12,565 That will take me on the next stage, south at last, 309 00:32:12,726 --> 00:32:15,718 down Lake Tanganyika to Mpulungu. 310 00:32:23,366 --> 00:32:25,834 Kigoma is a surprise. 311 00:32:26,006 --> 00:32:30,079 It has some fine buildings built by German colonialists, 312 00:32:30,246 --> 00:32:32,680 who saw it as a health spa. 313 00:32:34,566 --> 00:32:39,924 The Railway Hotel - where Lake Tanganyika stretches across to Zaire - 314 00:32:40,086 --> 00:32:42,077 looks healthy enough. 315 00:32:42,246 --> 00:32:43,838 (MOSQUITO BUZZES) 316 00:32:44,006 --> 00:32:47,203 Sadly, it isn't. 317 00:32:47,366 --> 00:32:51,644 This corner of paradise is serious mosquito country. 318 00:32:52,726 --> 00:32:54,717 (PALIN LAUGHS) 319 00:33:13,566 --> 00:33:17,195 Welcome to my wedding day! There we are. 320 00:33:19,126 --> 00:33:21,435 Let's try this. 321 00:33:25,046 --> 00:33:27,924 That's more like it. 322 00:33:28,086 --> 00:33:31,476 (MOSQUITOES BUZZ) 323 00:33:32,726 --> 00:33:35,877 I enjoy getting bitten while I'm doing this! 324 00:33:38,086 --> 00:33:41,044 That's good. 325 00:33:41,206 --> 00:33:43,595 That's not bad. Not bad. 326 00:33:53,206 --> 00:33:56,164 Hey! I did it. 327 00:33:58,086 --> 00:34:00,077 It's wonderful. 328 00:34:06,486 --> 00:34:09,284 I've gone. I've cracked! 329 00:34:16,846 --> 00:34:21,636 Next morning I learn a few sober realities from our taxi driver. 330 00:34:21,806 --> 00:34:24,195 He's also the local doctor. 331 00:34:24,366 --> 00:34:30,362 The chances of you getting serious malaria when you come to this area are higher 332 00:34:30,526 --> 00:34:36,556 as you don't have any immunity to malaria because you have not been exposed to it. 333 00:34:36,726 --> 00:34:42,801 Exposure will prevent me, who is indigenous to this place, from getting malaria, 334 00:34:42,966 --> 00:34:46,675 but you will be at great risk of getting it. 335 00:34:46,846 --> 00:34:50,361 If we both get malaria, you will suffer... 336 00:34:50,526 --> 00:34:56,203 you stand a chance of suffering a more severe malaria than I would suffer 337 00:34:56,366 --> 00:34:59,403 for the same number of parasites in the blood. 338 00:35:09,406 --> 00:35:13,399 Cut off from the rest of the country, except by boat and train, 339 00:35:13,566 --> 00:35:18,594 Kigoma has developed the easy-going, cosmopolitan atmosphere of a port. 340 00:35:28,766 --> 00:35:34,398 Its cultural connections are as close to Zaire and Burundi as they are to Tanzania, 341 00:35:34,566 --> 00:35:37,683 and perhaps closest of all to America. 342 00:35:51,446 --> 00:35:56,042 The trade around Lake Tanganyika has not always been honourable. 343 00:35:56,206 --> 00:36:01,280 Down the coast is Ujiji - once the slave capital of Central Africa. 344 00:36:01,446 --> 00:36:05,564 It was slavery that brought Livingstone here 120 years ago. 345 00:36:05,726 --> 00:36:11,756 - How far is it to Ujiji? - Ujiji? Near the... 346 00:36:12,766 --> 00:36:16,475 - How many hours? - One hours. 347 00:36:17,806 --> 00:36:20,923 What is at Ujiji? Is it a town? 348 00:36:21,086 --> 00:36:25,125 Ujiji is a town. They want in... 349 00:36:26,806 --> 00:36:29,274 Village of Livingstone. 350 00:37:30,446 --> 00:37:34,837 It was on this spot, under a mango tree, 120 years ago, 351 00:37:35,006 --> 00:37:38,715 that Livingstone and Stanley had their meeting. 352 00:37:38,886 --> 00:37:42,720 They were the only two white men for a thousand miles. 353 00:37:42,886 --> 00:37:49,234 They came up to each other, doffed their hats and this conversation took place. 354 00:37:49,406 --> 00:37:54,116 Stanley - "Dr Livingstone, I presume." 355 00:37:54,286 --> 00:37:57,084 Livingstone - "Yes." 356 00:37:57,246 --> 00:38:03,355 Stanley - "Doctor, I thank God I have been permitted to shake hands with you." 357 00:38:03,526 --> 00:38:08,998 Livingstone - "I feel thankful that I am here to welcome you." 358 00:38:10,486 --> 00:38:15,480 It's amazing that such a boring conversation could be remembered for 120 years. 359 00:38:15,646 --> 00:38:21,357 Stanley was embarrassed that all his fine words failed him at the vital moment. 360 00:38:23,246 --> 00:38:25,237 Happens to all of us. 361 00:38:25,406 --> 00:38:31,117 (MUTTERS) "Doctor, I thank God I've been permitted to shake hands with you." 362 00:38:31,286 --> 00:38:36,155 "Yes." "Presume I Livingstone Doctor." Nothing wrong with that. 363 00:38:36,326 --> 00:38:40,319 For those who want more, there is a small museum. 364 00:38:42,966 --> 00:38:48,677 Here the great moment has been captured in papier mché by a local school master. 365 00:39:03,046 --> 00:39:07,119 That's about all there is in the museum at Ujiji. 366 00:39:08,766 --> 00:39:12,600 The town has not much changed from Livingstone's day - 367 00:39:12,766 --> 00:39:16,281 except the slave masters have gone. 368 00:39:16,446 --> 00:39:20,997 Now it's a town of small businesses. "Kakazinga Shoe Polishers", 369 00:39:21,166 --> 00:39:26,877 "Vatican Hardware Supplies" and, my favourite, "Super Volcano Tailoring". 370 00:39:28,406 --> 00:39:34,481 Lake Tanganyika stretches 400 miles down the Rift Valley. 371 00:39:34,646 --> 00:39:41,245 We shall travel to its southernmost point - Mpulungu in Zambia. It'll be a slow journey. 372 00:39:43,126 --> 00:39:46,004 The motor vessel Liemba stops everywhere. 373 00:39:46,166 --> 00:39:50,956 It's the only link between the towns and villages on the shoreline. 374 00:40:18,006 --> 00:40:23,000 We pass a barge packed with refugees from the violence in Zaire. 375 00:40:23,166 --> 00:40:29,116 They wait patiently in the heat, hoping the Tanzanian authorities will accept them. 376 00:40:33,446 --> 00:40:37,121 The Liemba was built here by the Germans in 1914. 377 00:40:37,286 --> 00:40:40,676 After the First World War they scuttled her. 378 00:40:40,846 --> 00:40:45,636 She was raised by the British and put back into service. 379 00:40:45,806 --> 00:40:50,277 She's said to be the oldest working ferry in the world. 380 00:41:01,206 --> 00:41:06,564 I'm one of the lucky ones. I have a first-class cabin. 381 00:41:52,926 --> 00:41:55,156 The Liemba makes about nine knots, 382 00:41:55,326 --> 00:42:00,241 but ships half her age would have gone to the knacker's yard long ago. 383 00:42:00,406 --> 00:42:04,797 Her captain is called Beatus T. Mghamba. 384 00:42:04,966 --> 00:42:10,120 What are the problems of being captain of such an old ship? 385 00:42:10,286 --> 00:42:14,723 The problem is how to manoeuvre the ship. 386 00:42:14,886 --> 00:42:20,802 The ship is big but the engines are very small, 387 00:42:20,966 --> 00:42:27,075 so the horsepower is very small, so manoeuvring is a little bit difficult. 388 00:42:27,246 --> 00:42:32,115 What about your navigation on Lake Tanganyika? Is that easy? 389 00:42:33,486 --> 00:42:37,240 Yes, through experience it is OK, there is no problem, 390 00:42:37,406 --> 00:42:42,036 but the lake is not yet surveyed, 391 00:42:42,206 --> 00:42:46,199 so it needs experience, familiarisation. 392 00:42:46,926 --> 00:42:50,919 - Do you not have a chart? - We don't have a chart. 393 00:42:51,086 --> 00:42:54,237 Is that why you cannot go in close to ports? 394 00:42:54,406 --> 00:42:56,795 Yes. That is the only reason. 395 00:42:56,966 --> 00:43:03,201 Getting close to the land, maybe you can get some problems 396 00:43:03,366 --> 00:43:07,120 because the lake is not surveyed. 397 00:43:21,966 --> 00:43:24,719 The Liemba makes 15 stops. 398 00:43:24,886 --> 00:43:29,676 But it doesn't go to the villages - the villages come to the Liemba. 399 00:44:58,966 --> 00:45:04,757 I give up trying to make my cabin work and go to wash in the first-class bathroom. 400 00:45:23,166 --> 00:45:27,682 Here I can enjoy the unashamed luxury of running water... 401 00:45:27,846 --> 00:45:30,679 unstoppable running water. 402 00:45:39,406 --> 00:45:44,639 The facilities may be lacking, but the entertainment cannot be faulted. 403 00:45:44,806 --> 00:45:47,274 Today we're attacked by a wedding party. 404 00:45:53,166 --> 00:45:56,795 (NOISY SHOUTING AND DRUMMING) 405 00:46:18,846 --> 00:46:22,282 Getting on and off is a scene of frenzy 406 00:46:22,446 --> 00:46:26,917 which makes London commuters look like Zen Buddhists. 407 00:46:56,766 --> 00:46:59,075 The guests wave goodbye 408 00:46:59,246 --> 00:47:03,842 and offer traditional thanks to the wedding photographer. 409 00:47:11,006 --> 00:47:13,759 Catching the venerable vessel, the Liemba, 410 00:47:13,926 --> 00:47:17,805 may be our most important connection so far. 411 00:47:17,966 --> 00:47:21,322 It was the only way out of Kigoma 412 00:47:21,486 --> 00:47:26,002 and if we'd missed it, we'd have been there for another week. 413 00:47:26,166 --> 00:47:31,923 Also it marks the end of the most difficult countries to travel through in Africa, 414 00:47:32,086 --> 00:47:37,285 and we're now on course for Zambia, Zimbabwe and South Africa, 415 00:47:37,446 --> 00:47:41,439 to arrive at our next important deadline of December 3rd - 416 00:47:41,606 --> 00:47:46,919 the sailing of the Agulhas for the Antarctic from Cape Town. 417 00:47:47,086 --> 00:47:51,955 The only slightly ominous thing is that we have places on the Agulhas - 418 00:47:52,126 --> 00:47:58,201 which is a scientific supply ship - but we haven't heard if they're confirmed. 419 00:47:58,366 --> 00:48:04,123 Maybe it's because we've been in the back of beyond and communications are difficult. 420 00:48:04,286 --> 00:48:10,441 Hopefully we'll hear in Zambia that we've got those places and we're set for the South Pole. 421 00:48:17,366 --> 00:48:24,283 As we approach Zambia, I have the distinct feeling that we have been through the worst. 422 00:48:24,446 --> 00:48:29,042 I think that must be about the fourth time I've felt that.