1 00:00:44,718 --> 00:00:49,508 0ur plan to reach Antarctica by ship from Cape Town has failed. 2 00:00:49,678 --> 00:00:54,991 But we have discovered a company which says it could get us to the Pole. 3 00:00:55,158 --> 00:00:58,628 We must take a risk with them or go home. 4 00:00:58,798 --> 00:01:04,794 But their base is in South America - we're at the end of the wrong continent. 5 00:01:06,318 --> 00:01:12,427 We must fly 6,000 miles across the Atlantic, turning our back on the 30 degree meridian. 6 00:01:14,038 --> 00:01:20,193 0ur route goes via Rio de Janeiro and the Andes to Santiago in Chile. 7 00:01:23,598 --> 00:01:26,829 The Virgin is closed when I arrive in Santiago, 8 00:01:26,998 --> 00:01:29,637 but the view is worth the walk. 9 00:01:30,998 --> 00:01:35,230 In this well-ordered capital, a celebration is underway. 10 00:01:35,398 --> 00:01:40,153 The band of the Palace Guards strikes up an oddly familiar refrain. 11 00:01:40,318 --> 00:01:43,754 (ROUSING VERSION OF "HAPPY BIRTHDAY") 12 00:01:54,558 --> 00:02:00,076 It's the president's birthday. The Chileans aren't always nice to their leaders. 13 00:02:00,238 --> 00:02:06,473 18 years ago, they bombed the palace and President Allende took his own life. 14 00:02:07,958 --> 00:02:12,554 Chileans may seem subdued compared with other South Americans, 15 00:02:12,718 --> 00:02:15,710 but there are many pleasures here. 16 00:02:19,718 --> 00:02:26,351 I meet our guide, Patricio, for lunch at one of the world's most elegant fish markets. 17 00:02:26,518 --> 00:02:30,306 (ANDEAN PIPE MUSIC PLAYS) 18 00:02:35,358 --> 00:02:38,350 Both the cuisine and the music are local. 19 00:02:38,518 --> 00:02:43,512 Patricio gives me the low-down on the pipes they call "quena". 20 00:02:45,198 --> 00:02:48,474 - They're difficult to play? - Yes, it is. 21 00:02:48,638 --> 00:02:52,074 It's difficult to put in tune all the little pipes 22 00:02:52,238 --> 00:02:56,311 and it's difficult to keep the tune 23 00:02:56,478 --> 00:02:58,833 because you are playing long notes 24 00:02:58,998 --> 00:03:04,391 and you have to have strong muscles in your stomach to keep the air going. 25 00:03:18,758 --> 00:03:21,909 General Pinochet, who got rid of Allende, 26 00:03:22,078 --> 00:03:27,550 tried to ban these instruments as being "too representative of the Left". 27 00:03:29,238 --> 00:03:35,268 He had more success with human beings - 2,000 of those he arrested are still missing. 28 00:04:00,638 --> 00:04:06,235 It's a further 1,700 miles down the coast to the town of Punta Arenas, 29 00:04:06,398 --> 00:04:12,189 which lies beside the Straits of Magellan and opposite the island of Tierra del Fuego. 30 00:04:12,358 --> 00:04:18,149 It grew up as the safest harbour for ships making the journey round Cape Horn. 31 00:04:20,198 --> 00:04:26,148 From its airport, Adventure Network flies the only commercial plane into Antarctica. 32 00:04:26,318 --> 00:04:31,187 We've crossed continents, we're now at the tip of South America, 33 00:04:31,358 --> 00:04:37,354 and we're here on the appointed day for our departure. The plane's behind us. 34 00:04:37,518 --> 00:04:42,228 But the weather conditions here are unlike anywhere else on earth, 35 00:04:42,398 --> 00:04:49,156 and the final decision as to whether we go today rests with the pilot and the weather station here. 36 00:04:49,318 --> 00:04:52,196 The pilot is a Canadian, Bruce Allcorn. 37 00:04:52,358 --> 00:04:56,510 His plane cannot put down for long in the cold of Antarctica. 38 00:04:56,678 --> 00:04:59,909 He can only fly out when he knows he can get back. 39 00:05:00,078 --> 00:05:04,276 He's looking for 18 hours of continuous good weather. 40 00:05:04,438 --> 00:05:09,307 There are a lot of low pressure areas. Is that common in Antarctica? 41 00:05:09,478 --> 00:05:12,948 It's a phenomenon of the South Polar regions. 42 00:05:13,118 --> 00:05:17,828 Back here a few pages, a few days ago, there's a classic example. 43 00:05:17,998 --> 00:05:21,229 I don't know if you can see it here. 44 00:05:21,398 --> 00:05:23,832 Just in the area here, 45 00:05:23,998 --> 00:05:28,992 we have two, three, four, five low pressure areas 46 00:05:29,158 --> 00:05:34,676 in an area that normally would only have one or two in other parts of the world. 47 00:05:34,838 --> 00:05:38,035 - We're not going today? - Definitely not. 48 00:05:38,198 --> 00:05:41,270 When will you decide about tomorrow? 49 00:05:41,438 --> 00:05:46,831 7.30 a.m. We have a schedule at 7 a.m. with Patriot Hills to get their weather. 50 00:05:46,998 --> 00:05:49,910 I'll come over here at about 7.15, 51 00:05:50,078 --> 00:05:56,233 see what the weather man thinks, look at the satellite and we'll make a decision. 52 00:05:56,398 --> 00:06:00,311 - What are the chances? - 50-50 at this time. 53 00:06:00,478 --> 00:06:03,675 If you're a gambler, I'll give you better odds. 54 00:06:05,438 --> 00:06:09,909 While we wait for the weather, I find out more about Adventure Network 55 00:06:10,078 --> 00:06:12,751 from the local manager, Anne Kershaw. 56 00:06:12,918 --> 00:06:16,069 Have you ever had to abandon an expedition? 57 00:06:16,238 --> 00:06:21,915 Once in the early years, 1985, people had planned a three-week trip 58 00:06:22,078 --> 00:06:27,311 and after over two weeks in Punta Arenas with bad weather, we abandoned it. 59 00:06:29,358 --> 00:06:34,113 The only remotely encouraging advice is to go to the main square 60 00:06:34,278 --> 00:06:39,477 and visit the statue of Ferdinand Magellan, who led the world's first circumnavigation. 61 00:06:39,638 --> 00:06:45,668 If I want to return safely from my journey, I must kiss the Indian's foot. 62 00:06:56,558 --> 00:07:00,710 Now I can get back safely, but when can I go? 63 00:07:05,078 --> 00:07:07,546 Patriot Hills, Romeo Bravo. 64 00:07:08,838 --> 00:07:14,231 OK. Weather is 15,000 scattered... 20,000 broken... 65 00:07:14,398 --> 00:07:18,994 If you want to know the conditions in Antarctica, you call someone there. 66 00:07:19,158 --> 00:07:22,628 There's no weather satellite, just the radio. 67 00:07:22,798 --> 00:07:27,508 OK. Copy all. Bruce's plan as of this moment is to fly. 68 00:07:27,678 --> 00:07:33,150 The DC-6 will fly. Planning wheels off eleven local. How copy? 69 00:07:34,078 --> 00:07:36,546 This is the news we've been waiting for. 70 00:07:36,718 --> 00:07:42,076 At the airfield, the engineers can start putting the plane together. 71 00:07:42,878 --> 00:07:46,757 Bruce's DC-6 was first put together in 1953. 72 00:07:46,918 --> 00:07:53,312 In aviation terms it's a geriatric - taking on one of the most demanding journeys in the world. 73 00:07:54,238 --> 00:07:59,187 I've taken some risks so far, but none have made me quite so nervous. 74 00:07:59,878 --> 00:08:03,587 As you can see, we're here, action stations, ready to go. 75 00:08:03,758 --> 00:08:09,071 After 24 hours on the edge of our seats... well, our hotel beds in Punta Arenas, 76 00:08:09,238 --> 00:08:12,310 we've been told the weather is OK to fly. 77 00:08:12,478 --> 00:08:19,350 Planes have been known to turn back, so we could still have to go back, 78 00:08:19,518 --> 00:08:22,157 but it looks as though we're off. 79 00:08:22,318 --> 00:08:27,995 It's unlike any other departure we've made so far. 80 00:08:28,158 --> 00:08:32,868 A bit alarming, a bit exciting. It really is a voyage into the unknown. 81 00:08:33,038 --> 00:08:36,269 Well, here goes. 82 00:08:39,118 --> 00:08:44,476 The adventure starts right away. Climbing aboard is a feat of mountaineering. 83 00:08:44,638 --> 00:08:48,836 0n this airline you have to be your own baggage handler. 84 00:08:50,638 --> 00:08:54,108 When all is loaded, the pilot shuts the door. 85 00:08:54,278 --> 00:08:58,908 All part of the service - and he's the only one who knows how to do it. 86 00:09:00,198 --> 00:09:05,192 Half the cabin is for freight, half for passengers - 25 of us today. 87 00:09:05,358 --> 00:09:08,873 Climbing out of here I expect it to be a little rough. 88 00:09:09,038 --> 00:09:12,826 There'll be some turbulence over the mountains. 89 00:09:12,998 --> 00:09:18,709 The weather is generally good all the way. The landing at Patriot Hills is different. 90 00:09:18,878 --> 00:09:23,110 If you haven't experienced it before, the ice is a little rough - 91 00:09:23,278 --> 00:09:27,430 the airplane wheels around, lots of noise from the engines. 92 00:09:27,598 --> 00:09:31,113 It's quite normal. Don't be concerned. 93 00:09:31,278 --> 00:09:33,838 The seat belt sign means what it says. 94 00:09:33,998 --> 00:09:40,153 When it's on, be in your seats with the belt on. I don't leave it on for nothing. 95 00:09:40,318 --> 00:09:46,427 When the seat belt sign's off, you can wander around, come up to the cockpit. 96 00:09:46,598 --> 00:09:50,227 If you're using a flash camera, please warn me. 97 00:09:50,398 --> 00:09:55,074 It startles the hell out of me when they go off behind my head. 98 00:09:55,238 --> 00:09:59,516 Willy and Rob will give you the rest of the evacuation stuff 99 00:09:59,678 --> 00:10:02,272 and we'll see you in Patriot Hills. 100 00:10:02,438 --> 00:10:06,431 We'll be about seven hours and 40 minutes, I anticipate. 101 00:10:10,998 --> 00:10:13,751 In case of ditching... 102 00:10:13,918 --> 00:10:19,436 Willy, the co-pilot, is, we're told, a fully qualified stunt man. 103 00:10:37,478 --> 00:10:39,275 Turn number three. 104 00:10:54,438 --> 00:10:56,747 OK. That's it. 105 00:11:01,118 --> 00:11:04,110 As Bruce finally nurses us along the runway, 106 00:11:04,278 --> 00:11:08,908 I'm seized by an uncontrollable reluctance to part with Chile. 107 00:11:14,518 --> 00:11:16,986 The trouble with fear of the unknown 108 00:11:17,158 --> 00:11:22,232 is that you never know what the fear will be like until it's too late. 109 00:11:33,198 --> 00:11:37,350 0nce clear of South America, we have a 1,500 mile journey 110 00:11:37,518 --> 00:11:40,954 to Adventure Network's base at Patriot Hills, 111 00:11:41,118 --> 00:11:44,667 which is 600 miles from the South Pole. 112 00:11:49,918 --> 00:11:52,910 The flight is self-catering. 113 00:11:54,558 --> 00:11:58,995 It's quite liberating not to have to wait for trolleys. 114 00:11:59,158 --> 00:12:04,835 It's also easier to meet fellow passengers. There's not a sane one among them. 115 00:12:04,998 --> 00:12:08,388 Australian dentists who want to be mountaineers 116 00:12:08,558 --> 00:12:12,517 and Japanese who want to ride motorbikes to the Pole. 117 00:12:13,638 --> 00:12:18,428 This is the way to do it. All airline catering should be like this. 118 00:12:24,558 --> 00:12:29,552 I pressed one once and it exploded. I don't touch them any more. 119 00:12:37,518 --> 00:12:41,989 Four hours after setting out, we're over the pack ice. 120 00:12:44,518 --> 00:12:51,037 We've reached what Bruce drily refers to as "PNR" - "The Point of No Return." 121 00:12:51,198 --> 00:12:55,874 There is no longer enough fuel to get us back to Chile. 122 00:13:00,998 --> 00:13:07,312 The mood in the plane changes. Public jollity turns to private contemplation. 123 00:13:07,478 --> 00:13:12,074 Everyone prepares themselves in their own way for what lies ahead. 124 00:13:38,118 --> 00:13:43,238 There are no in-flight movies to break the mood, just in-flight maps. 125 00:13:43,398 --> 00:13:47,914 We've been going five and a half hours. Where are we now? 126 00:13:48,078 --> 00:13:51,150 We've come from Chile over here. 127 00:13:51,318 --> 00:13:54,549 Our approximate track is the inked-in line. 128 00:13:54,718 --> 00:13:57,915 We're now south of the Antarctic Circle. 129 00:13:58,078 --> 00:14:04,916 We've come past the... You saw the icebergs that were carved off of these ice shelves. 130 00:14:05,078 --> 00:14:08,787 Was that real coast or was that ice shelf? 131 00:14:08,958 --> 00:14:13,429 That's ice shelf extended from this area west of Alexander Island. 132 00:14:13,598 --> 00:14:19,230 We're coming up to the Ronne Entrance area and we'll be coming over this coast shortly 133 00:14:19,398 --> 00:14:24,028 and then on to Mount Rex and over the mainland proper. 134 00:14:24,198 --> 00:14:30,512 (PALIN) Yeah. How big are the icebergs? It's hard to tell from up here. What size are they? 135 00:14:30,678 --> 00:14:35,752 (ROB) The ones we've been seeing have been up to a kilometre or two across. 136 00:14:35,918 --> 00:14:38,637 The scale is difficult from altitude. 137 00:14:38,798 --> 00:14:44,794 There was an iceberg 100 kilometres across, the iceberg that would break off an ice shelf. 138 00:14:44,958 --> 00:14:47,631 Those happen only every few years. 139 00:14:47,798 --> 00:14:54,909 Apart from your base at Patriot Hills, what else is around this area? Any settlements? 140 00:14:55,078 --> 00:15:00,311 The next closest people would be at one of the scientific bases either on the coast 141 00:15:00,478 --> 00:15:06,872 or South Pole Station - at least 600 miles to the next closest humans. 142 00:15:14,198 --> 00:15:18,430 We have arrived at the emptiest continent on earth. No one lives here. 143 00:15:18,598 --> 00:15:24,673 An area one and a half times that of the USA is temporary home to some 3,000 scientists. 144 00:15:24,838 --> 00:15:27,796 The mountaineers glimpse their goal - 145 00:15:27,958 --> 00:15:33,749 Mount Vinson, 16,000 feet - the highest point in Antarctica. 146 00:15:33,918 --> 00:15:39,914 But the collective pulse really starts to quicken when the Patriot Hills rise toward us. 147 00:15:49,598 --> 00:15:54,797 These are the tips of mountains submerged beneath an ice cap 15 million years old 148 00:15:54,958 --> 00:15:57,950 and, in places, three miles thick. 149 00:16:08,358 --> 00:16:10,918 For Bruce, this is a testing moment. 150 00:16:11,078 --> 00:16:15,594 He must put down a four-engined, fixed-wheel aircraft on blue ice, 151 00:16:15,758 --> 00:16:18,431 without using brakes. 152 00:16:53,318 --> 00:16:56,355 (CHEERING) 153 00:16:57,358 --> 00:17:01,317 Everyone knows what a risk we've just taken. 154 00:17:01,478 --> 00:17:07,269 If anything had gone wrong, there are no emergency vehicles to help us here. 155 00:17:18,798 --> 00:17:22,791 This is all there is at the terminal at Patriot Hills. 156 00:17:27,278 --> 00:17:32,750 The plane must be turned round fast. If the engines stop for two hours, they freeze. 157 00:17:32,918 --> 00:17:38,948 There's no time for a helping hand onto a new and slippery continent. 158 00:17:45,838 --> 00:17:48,830 This is the bit we've all been warned about. 159 00:17:48,998 --> 00:17:54,152 I know why. Jesus... It's absolutely like plate glass. 160 00:17:56,118 --> 00:17:58,473 Too late to go back. 161 00:17:58,638 --> 00:18:01,869 - Bruce! - How you doing? 162 00:18:02,038 --> 00:18:06,634 The arrival of Bruce's plane is the major event at Patriot Hills. 163 00:18:06,798 --> 00:18:11,588 Everything needed to sustain life here comes in and goes out on the DC-6. 164 00:18:14,398 --> 00:18:17,947 Apart from unloading 25 passengers and their equipment, 165 00:18:18,118 --> 00:18:21,747 there are large stocks of supplies for the base. 166 00:18:21,918 --> 00:18:27,276 If bad weather set in, it could be a month before the DC-6 is seen again. 167 00:18:32,678 --> 00:18:37,274 All the fuel has to be flown out and the empty drums taken back. 168 00:18:37,438 --> 00:18:40,635 It makes it as expensive as Scotch whisky. 169 00:18:59,118 --> 00:19:05,114 Skidoos and sledges keep up a constant shuttle of freight between plane and camp. 170 00:19:09,158 --> 00:19:13,037 The rest of us - the human freight - walk. 171 00:19:14,358 --> 00:19:16,349 Conditions are good today. 172 00:19:16,518 --> 00:19:21,467 It's high summer and the temperature has soared to minus six centigrade. 173 00:19:34,998 --> 00:19:41,267 I don't know quite what I expected to find here, but I think it was more than this. 174 00:20:07,678 --> 00:20:11,353 Next morning, after a calm night of unbroken sunshine, 175 00:20:11,518 --> 00:20:16,512 I take my first faltering steps in the art of Antarctic survival. 176 00:20:27,238 --> 00:20:30,355 I learn that here, in this ice desert, 177 00:20:30,518 --> 00:20:35,512 even the most mundane human tasks take on an epic quality. 178 00:20:43,038 --> 00:20:48,908 That is the most extraordinary view from any lavatory anywhere in the world. 179 00:20:49,078 --> 00:20:55,631 I'm probably the only person sitting on the toilet for the next thousand miles. 180 00:20:57,798 --> 00:21:04,067 It doesn't matter there's no roof on it. I'd like to spend my whole life here. 181 00:21:04,238 --> 00:21:08,595 The trouble is it's bloody cold - you can't really hang around. 182 00:21:08,758 --> 00:21:14,230 All human waste has to be removed from Antarctica. You can't leave anything here. 183 00:21:14,398 --> 00:21:21,076 So anything I may pass today will be airfreighted out to Chile 184 00:21:21,238 --> 00:21:26,153 where it's made into models and sold at the Duty Free shop there. 185 00:21:29,718 --> 00:21:32,186 Makes you think. 186 00:21:33,958 --> 00:21:36,916 Better be a good one. 187 00:21:48,038 --> 00:21:54,716 The Patriot Hills base is a unique gateway - distributing adventurers around Antarctica. 188 00:21:56,358 --> 00:22:02,672 Shinji Kazama hopes to be the first person to reach the South Pole by motorbike. 189 00:22:08,238 --> 00:22:11,435 He's already ridden to the North Pole. 190 00:22:11,598 --> 00:22:17,070 He's accompanied by that indispensable aid to 20th-century travel - a camera crew. 191 00:22:43,318 --> 00:22:46,515 While Kazama tests the snow surface, 192 00:22:46,678 --> 00:22:52,674 the doctors, dentists and accountants prepare to be airlifted out to Mount Vinson. 193 00:22:52,838 --> 00:22:56,433 Their leader is Peter Hillary, son of Sir Edmund Hillary - 194 00:22:56,598 --> 00:22:59,237 one of the first two men to climb Everest. 195 00:22:59,398 --> 00:23:05,837 Just the logistics of an operation like this - like catering. Give us a day's menu. 196 00:23:05,998 --> 00:23:09,354 It's a sumptuous mix of porridge in the morning, 197 00:23:09,518 --> 00:23:12,351 crackers for lunch and rice for dinner. 198 00:23:12,518 --> 00:23:17,148 - Doesn't that sound Cordon Bleu? - How do you get people to sign up? 199 00:23:17,318 --> 00:23:20,116 I haven't told them about the menu yet! 200 00:23:20,278 --> 00:23:26,467 You're from an illustrious climbing background - your father was the first man up Everest. 201 00:23:26,638 --> 00:23:32,190 When you were young, were you given any option but to become interested in climbing? 202 00:23:32,358 --> 00:23:38,149 If anything, Dad almost discouraged us from going to the mountains - certainly to climb. 203 00:23:38,318 --> 00:23:40,513 We went there skiing. 204 00:23:40,678 --> 00:23:45,388 He didn't particularly want his children to get into mountaineering. 205 00:23:45,558 --> 00:23:49,676 But I guess it's like if you're brought up in a cricket family, 206 00:23:49,838 --> 00:23:56,311 you have a famous cricketer popping round every so often and asking the young 207 00:23:56,478 --> 00:24:01,029 if he wants to throw a ball around, and it's an infectious situation. 208 00:24:01,198 --> 00:24:04,270 You weren't given crampons at the age of three? 209 00:24:04,438 --> 00:24:09,637 No, but I soon located where Dad kept his, so I had no problem with equipment. 210 00:24:12,838 --> 00:24:15,306 While the climbers board their plane, 211 00:24:15,478 --> 00:24:21,872 we're served the sort of meal which Peter Hillary's party won't see for weeks. 212 00:24:22,038 --> 00:24:23,357 Spaghetti! 213 00:24:23,518 --> 00:24:27,033 0ver Chilean wine, we compare crazy schemes. 214 00:24:27,198 --> 00:24:31,510 What is so special about the bike you're using? 215 00:24:31,678 --> 00:24:34,795 - What's different from a normal one? - Yeah. 216 00:24:36,238 --> 00:24:39,196 - No pollution. - No pollution? 217 00:24:39,358 --> 00:24:43,067 - No noise. - No pollution? If you've got an engine... 218 00:24:43,238 --> 00:24:47,993 It's got special things on it. 219 00:24:48,158 --> 00:24:53,835 - Low pollution. Low noise. - Low noise. And what else? 220 00:24:53,998 --> 00:24:57,115 Wider tyre and white colour! 221 00:25:00,678 --> 00:25:05,149 So no one will be able to see you in the snow. You'll disappear. 222 00:25:05,318 --> 00:25:11,029 You've been to the North Pole and the South Pole and even driven your bike up Everest. 223 00:25:11,198 --> 00:25:13,837 What is there left to do next? 224 00:25:13,998 --> 00:25:17,752 (THEY SPEAK JAPANESE) 225 00:25:17,918 --> 00:25:20,591 Yes, I have. Moon. 226 00:25:20,758 --> 00:25:24,546 Moon? You're going to motorcycle to the moon? 227 00:25:24,718 --> 00:25:28,313 You'll have to go very fast to get the leap. 228 00:25:34,158 --> 00:25:40,267 You can tell the regulars from the visitors - the regulars have given up shaving. 229 00:25:49,758 --> 00:25:52,670 Even the regulars aren't out here for long. 230 00:25:52,838 --> 00:25:58,629 The Antarctic summer lasts four months. For the rest of the year it's dark and cold. 231 00:25:58,798 --> 00:26:05,431 There's no option but to abandon the base - as head of operations Mike Sharp explains. 232 00:26:05,598 --> 00:26:10,308 We take it all down, pack it in boxes and slide it into a snow cave. 233 00:26:10,478 --> 00:26:16,189 It's about four feet underground. It's one big room which we have to dig out. 234 00:26:16,358 --> 00:26:22,354 - What happens to the planes? - Two of the aircraft go back up to Canada. 235 00:26:22,518 --> 00:26:25,635 The Cessna we get to keep here. 236 00:26:25,798 --> 00:26:30,918 We dig a big hole and bury it. The only thing sticking out is the tail. 237 00:26:31,078 --> 00:26:35,993 We cover it in boards and planks and canvas. It's very successful. 238 00:26:36,158 --> 00:26:41,755 We take the skis and the legs off and slide it into this monster hole. 239 00:26:41,918 --> 00:26:47,356 Then when we come back we drag it out, put the skis on and away we go. 240 00:26:47,518 --> 00:26:51,113 It gets its certificate of airworthiness. 241 00:26:51,278 --> 00:26:56,272 We have an engineer in to check it, and then we're away again. 242 00:26:59,118 --> 00:27:05,591 Last season they weren't so lucky. An oil drum took the tail off one of the planes. 243 00:27:05,758 --> 00:27:12,197 A replacement is being fitted by Bill Aleekuk - a man of the Arctic. 244 00:27:12,358 --> 00:27:15,907 Major surgery. How long have you been in the Antarctic? 245 00:27:16,078 --> 00:27:21,232 I've been down here since the 15th of November, here at Patriot Hills. 246 00:27:22,718 --> 00:27:26,597 Actually, this is the first time I've been to the Antarctic. 247 00:27:26,758 --> 00:27:32,071 I'm probably the first Eskimo that's ever been down here, so I'm proud of that. 248 00:27:32,238 --> 00:27:34,832 - Show them how to do it. - That's right! 249 00:27:34,998 --> 00:27:39,037 Do you remember anything of igloo life yourself? 250 00:27:39,198 --> 00:27:42,031 I don't remember. I know how to build them. 251 00:27:42,198 --> 00:27:47,226 I was probably one of the last few that was ever born in an igloo. 252 00:27:49,558 --> 00:27:54,586 You can put a roof on the lavatory! Someone started. Is that your work? 253 00:27:54,758 --> 00:28:01,357 No, that isn't mine. I would never have air conditioning! 254 00:28:02,318 --> 00:28:06,391 If the weather holds, we could be going to the Pole tomorrow. 255 00:28:06,558 --> 00:28:09,026 There's just time to ring home. 256 00:28:09,198 --> 00:28:11,393 (RADIO STATIC) 257 00:28:11,558 --> 00:28:13,833 (INDISTINCT VOICE) 258 00:28:13,998 --> 00:28:18,913 - OK. Hello, Helen. Can you hear me? - (SQUEAKING) 259 00:28:19,078 --> 00:28:25,028 If you can hear me, that's fine. All I get from you is a strange birdlike noise. 260 00:28:25,198 --> 00:28:27,996 If that's your reply, that's great! 261 00:28:28,158 --> 00:28:33,107 I just rang to say I'm in Antarctica 600 miles from the Pole. 262 00:28:33,278 --> 00:28:35,667 - (STATIC) - Are you impressed? 263 00:28:35,838 --> 00:28:38,955 - (SQUEAKING) - Definitely. Very impressed. 264 00:28:40,118 --> 00:28:46,591 I was always pulling the birds! We're going to the Pole tomorrow afternoon. 265 00:28:46,758 --> 00:28:52,549 We're leaving here about five and we'll be staying there 36-48 hours. 266 00:28:52,718 --> 00:28:55,915 - Over. - (SQUEAKING) 267 00:28:56,078 --> 00:28:58,717 Yes, I have got clean underwear. 268 00:28:59,758 --> 00:29:05,867 I really can't hear your voice very well, so I'll just tell you the salient information. 269 00:29:06,038 --> 00:29:13,069 It's very nice here. The sun is shining. It's about minus eight degrees. 270 00:29:13,238 --> 00:29:16,150 It'll be about minus 25 at the Pole. 271 00:29:16,318 --> 00:29:19,276 I only have one set of thermal underwear, 272 00:29:19,438 --> 00:29:23,511 but, apart from that, I hope I do the family proud. 273 00:29:23,678 --> 00:29:26,988 - How are you? - (STATIC) 274 00:29:27,158 --> 00:29:31,117 - (SQUEAKING) - Are you? 275 00:29:31,278 --> 00:29:33,587 You should try using the other one. 276 00:29:34,558 --> 00:29:37,118 (WIND BLUSTERS) 277 00:29:47,078 --> 00:29:51,549 It's about 6.30 on the day we're due to leave for the Pole. 278 00:29:51,718 --> 00:29:56,667 The wind, which we haven't heard recently, has suddenly got up 279 00:29:56,838 --> 00:30:00,672 and it sounds as though the weather could be changing. 280 00:30:00,838 --> 00:30:05,354 I wonder whether it'll affect our chances of leaving today. 281 00:30:05,518 --> 00:30:08,510 I'd better find out what's going on. 282 00:30:34,358 --> 00:30:37,828 With the wind comes a vicious drop in temperature. 283 00:30:37,998 --> 00:30:41,832 But what's important is how conditions are at the Pole. 284 00:30:41,998 --> 00:30:45,070 Mike Sharp calls up the American base there. 285 00:30:45,238 --> 00:30:48,833 South Pole, Patriot Hills. How is your weather? 286 00:30:48,998 --> 00:30:52,911 (CRACKLING AND SQUEAKING) 287 00:30:53,078 --> 00:30:58,277 It may sound like Marconi's first broadcast, but this is a voice from the Pole. 288 00:30:58,438 --> 00:31:01,635 I just pray it's good news. 289 00:31:03,518 --> 00:31:05,986 It is. High pressure over the Pole. 290 00:31:06,158 --> 00:31:10,151 As the wind drops, there's nothing to keep us here. 291 00:31:11,918 --> 00:31:15,433 First to take advantage is Kazama 292 00:31:15,598 --> 00:31:21,070 with a message he hopes to nail to the Pole, though he doesn't know what it says. 293 00:31:21,238 --> 00:31:23,706 I can't read it. 294 00:31:26,158 --> 00:31:29,355 His back-up team works almost casually. 295 00:31:29,518 --> 00:31:35,150 They could be planning a trip to the supermarket instead of a month on the ice. 296 00:31:39,278 --> 00:31:42,156 As if saying goodbye might be tempting fate, 297 00:31:42,318 --> 00:31:47,711 there's little ceremony as Kazama rides off into the never-setting sun. 298 00:32:22,438 --> 00:32:25,271 Their departure makes my feet even itchier, 299 00:32:25,438 --> 00:32:29,670 but it's late afternoon before our turn comes. 300 00:32:30,678 --> 00:32:35,513 This plane will be carrying seven people, fuel and survival equipment. 301 00:32:35,678 --> 00:32:38,750 It's a single-engined 0tter of 1950s design. 302 00:32:38,918 --> 00:32:43,230 This is the single engine that will take us to the Pole. 303 00:32:43,398 --> 00:32:47,710 I seek reassurance from our pilot, Dan Baldwin. 304 00:32:47,878 --> 00:32:51,871 Dan, have you a message of hope for us? 305 00:32:52,038 --> 00:32:56,031 Yes. The weather looks good. Shouldn't have any problem. 306 00:32:56,198 --> 00:33:01,670 Got a little wind blowing snow, but it looks like being a good trip. 307 00:33:01,838 --> 00:33:05,194 - Have you been to the Pole often? - Never been there. 308 00:33:05,358 --> 00:33:09,670 - You've never been there? - No. It's a first for both of us. 309 00:33:09,838 --> 00:33:14,354 - Do you know the way? - I'm not from down south here. 310 00:33:14,518 --> 00:33:18,033 I just come down to enjoy the nice weather. 311 00:33:18,198 --> 00:33:21,588 This aircraft must be a veteran of polar flights. 312 00:33:21,758 --> 00:33:27,276 No. This will be the first trip for a single-engine Turbine Otter to the Pole. 313 00:33:27,438 --> 00:33:32,592 So the plane's never been to the Pole, you've never been, we've never been. 314 00:33:32,758 --> 00:33:38,628 - I can just land you anywhere, then! - Well, we're all in it together. 315 00:33:38,798 --> 00:33:43,269 - What are we landing on? - We're landing on skis. 316 00:33:44,798 --> 00:33:47,358 Are those trickier than wheels? 317 00:33:47,518 --> 00:33:50,316 No, not so much. 318 00:33:50,478 --> 00:33:54,517 Whether they're wheels, skis or floats, they're all different, 319 00:33:54,678 --> 00:33:58,068 but there's not much difference in landing. 320 00:33:58,238 --> 00:34:02,993 OK. Well, if you're optimistic... I bet you're raring to go. 321 00:34:03,158 --> 00:34:05,877 - I'm raring to go. - OK. Here goes. 322 00:34:31,478 --> 00:34:34,117 So this is it - the last leg. 323 00:34:34,278 --> 00:34:36,838 I ought to feel confident, elated even, 324 00:34:36,998 --> 00:34:42,994 but I know from the Arctic that happy endings can never be taken for granted. 325 00:34:53,718 --> 00:34:59,236 Rudy Driscoll, another customer, only took up adventures like this in his 50s. 326 00:35:00,518 --> 00:35:03,510 I don't know how they did it without sunglasses. 327 00:35:03,678 --> 00:35:07,512 At the base of each mountain range is a blue ice field 328 00:35:07,678 --> 00:35:11,512 like a little lake attached to the mountain. 329 00:35:13,998 --> 00:35:16,990 Would you rather be doing it on skis? 330 00:35:17,158 --> 00:35:23,154 - Frankly, I think this is a bit nicer. - I wouldn't like to cross it on a motorcycle. 331 00:35:23,318 --> 00:35:29,314 It's such an expanse of white. How can you do it without getting disoriented? 332 00:35:32,198 --> 00:35:36,191 (RUDY) No landmarks except for an occasional mountain. 333 00:35:36,358 --> 00:35:41,352 It makes you think how resourceful the early explorers were 334 00:35:41,518 --> 00:35:46,831 when they didn't have navigation satellites or electronics, radios. 335 00:35:46,998 --> 00:35:50,991 They found their way across that sea of emptiness. 336 00:35:52,518 --> 00:35:57,512 At the heart of Antarctica is a plateau with an average height of 10,000 feet 337 00:35:57,678 --> 00:36:02,468 and an average annual temperature of minus 50 centigrade. 338 00:36:11,238 --> 00:36:14,867 It's a five-hour flight, but there's little time to sleep. 339 00:36:15,038 --> 00:36:21,193 Halfway through we must stop and refuel. First we have to find the fuel. 340 00:36:21,358 --> 00:36:27,593 A chart gives a rough position, but the precise location is marked by a bamboo pole. 341 00:36:31,638 --> 00:36:35,313 Dan has never been here before, nor has co-pilot Scott - 342 00:36:35,478 --> 00:36:39,835 who, it turns out, is not a pilot but a doctor. 343 00:36:43,878 --> 00:36:46,312 Dan goes down for a closer look. 344 00:36:56,598 --> 00:37:01,991 No one seems to mention what happens if we don't find it. 345 00:37:12,798 --> 00:37:17,189 After a few abortive passes, Dan catches sight of something. 346 00:37:59,398 --> 00:38:04,108 We've put down at a remote spot called King's Peak. 347 00:38:07,158 --> 00:38:12,835 We squeeze off the plane and are put to work erecting a tent. 348 00:38:16,558 --> 00:38:19,868 - Is that what you wanted? - Thanks, Michael. 349 00:38:20,038 --> 00:38:25,112 Scott the doctor supervises Rudy and myself. It is bitterly cold. 350 00:38:27,518 --> 00:38:33,787 Hang on to anything that might blow. It'll be a long walk to Patriot Hills to get it. 351 00:38:33,958 --> 00:38:38,110 It blows back home, does it? Return to sender. 352 00:38:38,278 --> 00:38:43,068 It's difficult to grip anything with these mittens on. 353 00:38:43,238 --> 00:38:46,230 I'm just going to pin out one corner. 354 00:38:52,038 --> 00:38:54,677 Holding my end up. 355 00:38:57,358 --> 00:39:03,354 As we continue our imitation of Laurel and Hardy, Dan digs for aviation fuel. 356 00:39:25,038 --> 00:39:30,670 The 0tter's tank fills with what we hope will be enough to see us to the Pole. 357 00:39:48,678 --> 00:39:52,637 What seems like hours later, we have the tent up. 358 00:39:54,958 --> 00:39:58,951 0nly then does it become apparent why we put it up. 359 00:39:59,118 --> 00:40:05,273 Dan is leaving us here while he flies 50 miles to drop fuel for Kazama's expedition. 360 00:40:33,118 --> 00:40:36,793 Watching him go fills me with foreboding. 361 00:40:36,958 --> 00:40:41,986 I've never had such an acute sense of being nowhere. 362 00:40:47,318 --> 00:40:51,550 Scott tries to cheer us up with tales of savage weather 363 00:40:51,718 --> 00:40:55,916 and people being trapped for days. 364 00:40:59,758 --> 00:41:03,797 At last comes the sound we've been waiting for. 365 00:41:12,638 --> 00:41:16,597 Watching Dan approach is a comforting sight. 366 00:41:16,758 --> 00:41:19,830 Watching him land is terrifying. 367 00:41:42,838 --> 00:41:49,027 We take the tent down and, after one last weather check, Dan sets course for the Pole. 368 00:41:50,998 --> 00:41:54,468 It's difficult in an unpressurised cabin. 369 00:41:54,638 --> 00:41:58,153 We're at the equivalent of 15,000 feet above sea level. 370 00:41:58,318 --> 00:42:04,268 Rudy, especially, is finding breathing hard. Scott administers oxygen. 371 00:42:14,958 --> 00:42:19,110 Slowly and uncomfortably, we draw nearer to the Pole. 372 00:42:20,398 --> 00:42:24,869 South Pole, South Pole, 5-8 Juliet Hotel. Do you copy? Over. 373 00:42:25,038 --> 00:42:27,506 (RADl0) 5-8 Juliet Hotel. South Pole. 374 00:42:27,678 --> 00:42:32,194 Roger. We're about 15 minutes out. How's the weather holding? 375 00:42:32,358 --> 00:42:36,146 (RADl0) I have a couple of pieces of information. 376 00:42:36,318 --> 00:42:41,995 When you land on the skiway, you'll see a number nine marker. 377 00:42:42,158 --> 00:42:47,391 We recommend you pull off - well off the runway - and park the plane there. 378 00:42:48,518 --> 00:42:50,509 How copy? 379 00:42:50,678 --> 00:42:53,715 You're coming in five square there. 380 00:42:53,878 --> 00:42:58,588 (RADl0) Roger. I've got one more piece of information. 381 00:42:58,758 --> 00:43:02,068 There is no certified runway available 382 00:43:02,238 --> 00:43:07,790 and the US government cannot authorise a landing. How copy? 383 00:43:07,958 --> 00:43:12,509 - Roger. We got that. - 0K. Have a good landing. 384 00:43:12,678 --> 00:43:14,987 (PALIN) We're brought down to earth. 385 00:43:15,158 --> 00:43:18,548 The goal of our journey is within our grasp, 386 00:43:18,718 --> 00:43:22,996 but the radio conversation is a reminder of an awkward truth - 387 00:43:23,158 --> 00:43:25,513 no one really wants us here. 388 00:43:43,798 --> 00:43:48,314 Well, here it is. We've landed at the South Pole. 389 00:43:48,478 --> 00:43:53,472 Or tantalisingly close. I don't know where the Pole is. 390 00:43:53,638 --> 00:43:57,551 So... I'd better go and ask. 391 00:44:10,598 --> 00:44:14,113 This is definitely not what I expected. 392 00:44:16,158 --> 00:44:19,673 It's a cross between the moon and a marshalling yard. 393 00:44:19,838 --> 00:44:24,354 I see domes and aerials, dishes and pylons, but no Pole. 394 00:44:31,438 --> 00:44:35,795 How ironic it is that in the world's most unspoilt wilderness 395 00:44:35,958 --> 00:44:40,110 the needs of science have created a building site. 396 00:44:46,158 --> 00:44:48,626 But where's the Pole? 397 00:44:49,758 --> 00:44:56,470 Perhaps it's kept indoors to stop it getting knocked over by bulldozers. 398 00:45:02,038 --> 00:45:05,826 This is the Amundsen-Scott South Pole Station, 399 00:45:05,998 --> 00:45:08,956 established by the Americans 35 years ago. 400 00:45:09,118 --> 00:45:13,908 It proves that even at the most inhospitable place on earth, 401 00:45:14,078 --> 00:45:17,070 life as we know it can survive. 402 00:45:24,958 --> 00:45:27,518 0utside the temperature is 30 below. 403 00:45:27,678 --> 00:45:32,832 In here they can wear shorts and eat chilli and blueberry pie. 404 00:45:37,158 --> 00:45:41,629 There is a record number of 120 scientists working here. 405 00:45:41,798 --> 00:45:44,790 0ne of them must know where the Pole is. 406 00:45:50,478 --> 00:45:52,469 Keep going. 407 00:46:04,358 --> 00:46:08,590 Now I know where it is, but not which one it is. 408 00:46:11,398 --> 00:46:16,392 Surely this can't be it, all gaudy like a fairground attraction? 409 00:46:19,718 --> 00:46:23,506 Thankfully not. This is the "ceremonial Pole". 410 00:46:23,678 --> 00:46:27,990 Politicians who get this far like to be photographed here. 411 00:46:30,278 --> 00:46:32,587 At last I see it. 412 00:46:32,758 --> 00:46:38,276 I'm about to join the ranks of those who have done what Scott and Amundsen didn't - 413 00:46:38,438 --> 00:46:41,555 stand on both Poles. 414 00:46:41,718 --> 00:46:48,271 At this point, all the world's lines of longitude converge on my toecaps. 415 00:46:51,078 --> 00:46:54,593 It's impossible to go further south than this. 416 00:46:54,758 --> 00:46:57,397 Every direction you go in will be north. 417 00:46:57,558 --> 00:47:03,394 I can actually walk around the world in eight seconds - as I will now demonstrate. 418 00:47:12,998 --> 00:47:14,989 It is the end of the world. 419 00:47:15,158 --> 00:47:19,515 (HOARSELY) It's also the end of our migration from north to south. 420 00:47:19,678 --> 00:47:21,953 The omens are telling us to stop. 421 00:47:22,118 --> 00:47:28,512 The camera just packed up because of the cold and I'm beginning to pack up too. 422 00:47:28,678 --> 00:47:33,752 It's minus 30 degrees centigrade here - with wind chill that's minus 50. 423 00:47:33,918 --> 00:47:40,266 We're also at an elevation of 9,000 feet, so there's altitude sickness to combat. 424 00:47:40,438 --> 00:47:47,355 But I think that after five and a half months, the body is saying, "Pack it in." 425 00:47:52,278 --> 00:47:57,830 When I was a boy, I dreamed of coming here like my heroes Scott and Amundsen. 426 00:47:57,998 --> 00:48:02,310 Now I am here, I want to celebrate, but it's not that easy. 427 00:48:02,478 --> 00:48:06,073 The US government doesn't encourage hospitality. 428 00:48:06,238 --> 00:48:12,427 While the scientists snuggle under warm blankets, we spend a bitter night in a tent. 429 00:48:22,118 --> 00:48:26,430 But I can think of no more fitting end to our journey than to say, 430 00:48:26,598 --> 00:48:29,590 "I'm glad we did it this way."