1
00:00:02,686 --> 00:00:05,996
One of the problems about making
a series like this

2
00:00:06,166 --> 00:00:09,203
is that when we are out
at somewhere like the Sahara

3
00:00:09,366 --> 00:00:12,164
it's difficult to get there,
you're fortunate to be there,

4
00:00:12,326 --> 00:00:14,635
you've spent a bit of money getting there,

5
00:00:14,806 --> 00:00:16,558
so you film as much as you can.

6
00:00:16,726 --> 00:00:20,275
And not all of it can fit into a series.

7
00:00:20,446 --> 00:00:26,123
And we've shot many, many hours for
what is going to be a four-hour series.

8
00:00:26,286 --> 00:00:30,757
But with the wonders of DVD,
we can show you and bore you rigid

9
00:00:30,926 --> 00:00:34,316
with things that
didn't actually make the final cut.

10
00:00:34,486 --> 00:00:37,956
Here are some of the sequences which
I would love to have seen in the series

11
00:00:38,126 --> 00:00:41,914
but didn't fit in;
often because we had to move on

12
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or we couldn't have too much in one
country and not so much in another.

13
00:00:45,686 --> 00:00:48,519
But I think they're all things
with value of their own.

14
00:00:52,899 --> 00:00:54,890
Fez, the old capital of Morocco,

15
00:00:55,099 --> 00:00:58,375
was the sort of place that we could have
stayed for most of the programme.

16
00:00:58,539 --> 00:01:01,929
It's on our way through Morocco
to the Sahara desert.

17
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It was so fascinating because
it's a still-working medieval city.

18
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And among one of the things
that we filmed but couldn't use

19
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was this wonderful market,

20
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where the skins that make the leather
that Fez is famous for

21
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are traded early in the morning.

22
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We went along to see these skins
being brought out.

23
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What are they celebrating?

24
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They're sort of saying that English people
are coming to make, er...

25
00:01:48,219 --> 00:01:50,369
millions here.

26
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So yeah... Just...
Anyway

27
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Really? "English people are coming,
get your cowhides out!"

28
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The big spenders are here(!)

29
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Let's see what else is going on.

30
00:02:07,219 --> 00:02:09,210
(THEY SPEAK IN ARABIC)

31
00:02:12,939 --> 00:02:14,816
So there's some...

32
00:02:15,019 --> 00:02:19,297
He's just asked me if you are English
tanners and if you are experts on hides.

33
00:02:19,459 --> 00:02:20,892
And I said yes.

34
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Hope he doesn't ask questions
about that!

35
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I'm not very good on tanning!

36
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Look at that there.

37
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You can see here, there doesn't seem to
be many trucks or vehicles collecting.

38
00:02:41,059 --> 00:02:43,050
- People on donkeys, things like that.
- Yeah.

39
00:02:43,539 --> 00:02:47,851
Because they are taken to the medina,
in the medina there are no vehicles.

40
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The vehicle would stop here.
This will go to the medina.

41
00:02:51,459 --> 00:02:52,892
Oh, that's why!

42
00:02:53,099 --> 00:02:56,250
Yes, you couldn't get the cars
through there. Right. Yeah.

43
00:03:05,833 --> 00:03:09,587
In Fez we had a very good guide
called Abdulfettah,

44
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a wonderful man who's lived in England.

45
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He did some designs for
Mick Jagger's bathroom at one time!

46
00:03:16,673 --> 00:03:18,664
Erm... camera positions...
No, no! Only joking.

47
00:03:18,833 --> 00:03:20,425
Tiles and things like that.

48
00:03:21,153 --> 00:03:25,749
Anyway, a very good
English-speaking Moroccan

49
00:03:25,913 --> 00:03:27,471
and a craftsman.

50
00:03:27,633 --> 00:03:32,582
We went back to his house... and
he is married to a lady called Naomi.

51
00:03:32,753 --> 00:03:37,304
Erm... and she has lived out
in Morocco now for three or four years.

52
00:03:37,873 --> 00:03:41,104
She's of Suffolk farming stock,
so very down to earth.

53
00:03:41,273 --> 00:03:43,309
And I was interested to find out
from HER

54
00:03:43,473 --> 00:03:46,351
what it was like to readjust
to being an Englishwoman

55
00:03:46,513 --> 00:03:48,788
living in a Moroccan city.

56
00:03:48,953 --> 00:03:50,386
She gave us a very good interview.

57
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HE's onE of sEvEntEEn
brotHErs and sistErs.

58
00:03:56,993 --> 00:04:01,032
I gEt on vEry wEll witH tHEm.
I likE His sistErs vEry mucH.

59
00:04:01,393 --> 00:04:02,985
In that respect, life is easy.

60
00:04:03,153 --> 00:04:06,828
Life here is very much
a community thing.

61
00:04:06,993 --> 00:04:09,905
You're never on your own.
You're always surrounded by family

62
00:04:10,073 --> 00:04:14,146
and friends, there's always people
around the table, eating with you.

63
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It's not like England at all.

64
00:04:17,713 --> 00:04:23,185
Do you find sometimes you miss having
a bit of peace or time to yourself?

65
00:04:23,353 --> 00:04:26,504
- Do you have private time here?
- It's difficult, but yes,

66
00:04:26,673 --> 00:04:29,585
you have to make it,
sometimes I go to the roof.

67
00:04:29,753 --> 00:04:32,745
When I need to release some "agh",

68
00:04:32,953 --> 00:04:35,911
I go up there
for a quiet time on my own.

69
00:04:36,153 --> 00:04:40,032
What have you found out about
the way life's organised here,

70
00:04:40,193 --> 00:04:42,787
say, between husband and wife?

71
00:04:42,953 --> 00:04:44,545
How different is it from England?

72
00:04:45,033 --> 00:04:46,512
It's very much two different worlds.

73
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The men have their world,
the women have theirs.

74
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The women are at home, cooking,
cleaning, looking after children.

75
00:04:53,753 --> 00:04:55,186
That's their role.

76
00:04:55,713 --> 00:05:00,992
Do you think you will
ever become... of Moroccan mentality?

77
00:05:02,713 --> 00:05:04,669
I'm trying. I'm trying.

78
00:05:04,833 --> 00:05:06,903
'Cause I think it would help me

79
00:05:07,073 --> 00:05:08,791
in accepting a lot of things.

80
00:05:08,953 --> 00:05:11,513
I think I've come so far...

81
00:05:11,673 --> 00:05:13,391
perhaps I can't go any further.

82
00:05:13,833 --> 00:05:17,792
Sometimes I think, "Will I ever
accept that? I don't think I will."

83
00:05:17,953 --> 00:05:21,468
But to go back to what I was in England

84
00:05:21,633 --> 00:05:23,783
that would be just as difficult now.

85
00:05:23,953 --> 00:05:25,227
I'm sort of between the two.

86
00:05:29,127 --> 00:05:34,121
This was in the sequence that we shot
in the refugee camp of the Saha... wa...

87
00:05:34,287 --> 00:05:38,599
I can't say the word! In this
you'll probably hear me trying to say it.

88
00:05:38,767 --> 00:05:40,166
The Saharawi people.

89
00:05:40,847 --> 00:05:45,125
They're the people who have been exiled
from their country for twenty-five years.

90
00:05:45,287 --> 00:05:50,361
When we were interviewing around the
camp we met a lady called Metou.

91
00:05:50,527 --> 00:05:53,997
I remember her because she had the...
Arab dress on

92
00:05:54,167 --> 00:05:56,317
over a pair of denim jeans

93
00:05:56,487 --> 00:05:58,557
and Doc Martens boots.

94
00:05:58,727 --> 00:06:02,402
She'd been educated part of the time
in Wales.

95
00:06:02,567 --> 00:06:07,083
We had a wonderful time talking about
how to get from Machynlleth to Llandudno.

96
00:06:07,247 --> 00:06:10,045
And other matters more relevant
to Africa.

97
00:06:10,207 --> 00:06:13,597
And she was a delightful person
to talk to.

98
00:06:14,687 --> 00:06:19,203
- You've lived your life as a refugee?
- Yes, all of my life as a refugee.

99
00:06:19,367 --> 00:06:23,121
Have you ever been to your country,
Western Sahara, I suppose?

100
00:06:23,287 --> 00:06:28,042
Never. I haven't been in my country,
I've never seen my country.

101
00:06:28,207 --> 00:06:31,836
I don't know my country... what this
look like.

102
00:06:32,007 --> 00:06:35,636
I hope one day to see my country.

103
00:06:35,807 --> 00:06:38,401
What did your family do there?
Where did they live?

104
00:06:38,567 --> 00:06:42,799
My family... I live with my mother here.

105
00:06:42,967 --> 00:06:45,037
My grandmother as well.

106
00:06:45,207 --> 00:06:49,837
And part of my family
live in occupied territories.

107
00:06:50,007 --> 00:06:52,601
In Laayoune,
the capital of Western Sahara.

108
00:06:52,767 --> 00:06:55,042
- Do you still see your father?
- My father

109
00:06:55,207 --> 00:06:58,438
is one of the Saharawi people
who was arrested in 1975.

110
00:06:58,607 --> 00:07:01,917
- He was arrested?
- Yes, erm...

111
00:07:02,087 --> 00:07:06,763
I mean... the Moroccan people
arrested them in 1975.

112
00:07:06,927 --> 00:07:08,758
Why did they arrest your father?

113
00:07:08,927 --> 00:07:13,125
Because my father
was fighting for his rights.

114
00:07:13,287 --> 00:07:16,836
He was fighting for the rights of the
Saharawi people?

115
00:07:17,007 --> 00:07:18,838
Yes. For the Saharawi people.

116
00:07:19,007 --> 00:07:23,159
And the Moroccan people arrested him
with 100 people.

117
00:07:23,327 --> 00:07:28,526
I mean with his friends... with
some people.

118
00:07:28,687 --> 00:07:30,643
Have you been in contact with him?

119
00:07:30,807 --> 00:07:33,321
No. I have no news about my father.

120
00:07:33,487 --> 00:07:38,561
I have no contact with my father.
I don't know if he's alive, if he died.

121
00:07:38,727 --> 00:07:41,764
- That's terrible.
- Yes. It was terrible.

122
00:07:46,069 --> 00:07:50,745
One ingredient to any Sahara trip
are of course camels.

123
00:07:50,909 --> 00:07:54,060
And very early on,
a sort of baptism of fire,

124
00:07:54,229 --> 00:07:57,505
I lived with people who ate camel
most of the time.

125
00:07:57,669 --> 00:08:01,662
So I ate not only bits of camel meat
but also camel livers.

126
00:08:01,829 --> 00:08:03,899
Which I recommend you avoid.

127
00:08:04,069 --> 00:08:06,424
Especially when they've been around
over four days.

128
00:08:06,909 --> 00:08:10,538
They set me off a bit, diced camel liver,
but I ate camel,

129
00:08:10,709 --> 00:08:14,258
I walked with camel, but this was
my introduction to camel cheese.

130
00:08:16,789 --> 00:08:18,620
Nancy. Michael Palin.

131
00:08:18,989 --> 00:08:21,867
Very pleased to meet you.
Thank you for having us.

132
00:08:40,509 --> 00:08:45,219
This is the first time I've had camel milk.
I've EATEN the various bits of camel.

133
00:08:45,389 --> 00:08:47,539
- Yes, but here's the best part.
- Right!

134
00:08:47,709 --> 00:08:49,904
- I'll give it a try.
- The milk.

135
00:08:50,469 --> 00:08:52,824
Mm. Mmm, yes, it's lovely.

136
00:08:52,989 --> 00:08:57,380
Mmm. Mm. Now, how does this differ
from cow's milk?

137
00:08:57,549 --> 00:09:00,985
- Is it more nutritious, less nutritious?
- It has the same nutrition,

138
00:09:01,149 --> 00:09:03,344
but less fat, less sugar.

139
00:09:03,509 --> 00:09:08,424
And more minerals and vitamin C. It has
more vitamin C than any other milk.

140
00:09:08,589 --> 00:09:12,104
It's very good for you.
It's refreshing and it gives you strength.

141
00:09:12,269 --> 00:09:14,783
- Oh, good.
- They say it's tonic for men.

142
00:09:14,949 --> 00:09:18,942
- I don't know what that means.
- Tonic for men? Gin and tonic? No.

143
00:09:19,109 --> 00:09:23,705
So what else does it do? It's just
general... very good for the spirits,

144
00:09:23,869 --> 00:09:27,384
for the virility or whatever, they always
say that, that'll sell anything.

145
00:09:27,589 --> 00:09:30,899
Yes, they say it for tomatoes!
This is our camel cheese,

146
00:09:31,149 --> 00:09:34,937
the only one in the world
you can have today... as of today.

147
00:09:35,109 --> 00:09:38,306
- Camel cheese. That'll be a first.
- Yes.

148
00:09:38,469 --> 00:09:41,939
Mm. Mmm. Yes. It's quite mild.

149
00:09:42,109 --> 00:09:45,863
It's sort of... not so creamy
as Camembert.

150
00:09:46,029 --> 00:09:49,419
- Not yet.
- Not quite as... Not yet? It'll get creamy.

151
00:09:49,589 --> 00:09:52,342
Not quite as tart as chèvre, but, erm...

152
00:09:52,669 --> 00:09:58,062
Yes. It goes creamy like a very nice
French goat cheese.

153
00:09:58,229 --> 00:10:02,017
This is... Here, you have
all the explanations in English.

154
00:10:02,189 --> 00:10:04,578
It's, erm, the camel is
an extraordinary animal.

155
00:10:04,749 --> 00:10:07,900
I feel regeneration already!
Better leave the shop!

156
00:10:13,882 --> 00:10:18,398
Dakar really stood out as a
rather sophisticated, cosmopolitan city.

157
00:10:18,562 --> 00:10:22,032
Erm, and we tried to get
a flavour of Dakar.

158
00:10:22,202 --> 00:10:24,762
I went to a wrestling match,
which is in the programme.

159
00:10:24,962 --> 00:10:27,840
We went to the slave island
of Gorée, just off the coast.

160
00:10:28,002 --> 00:10:32,075
There are absolutely wonderful designers
there and beautiful women too,

161
00:10:32,242 --> 00:10:35,871
and we put the two together and
improvised a model show.

162
00:10:36,042 --> 00:10:40,115
We had mannequins parading up and
down a strange catwalk in a restaurant.

163
00:10:40,282 --> 00:10:43,831
It didn't work completely,
but the dresses were smashing.

164
00:10:44,002 --> 00:10:47,392
The ladies were lovely.
And I was very sad to lose this.

165
00:10:47,562 --> 00:10:50,395
I think it's one of the sexiest sequences
in Sahara.

166
00:10:50,562 --> 00:10:51,995
There wasn't much sex.

167
00:10:52,402 --> 00:10:54,393
(DRUMMING PRACTICE)

168
00:10:56,562 --> 00:10:58,553
(ARABIC CHATTER
OVER PA SYSTEM)

169
00:11:31,362 --> 00:11:33,353
(THEY CHAT IN FRENCH)

170
00:11:44,522 --> 00:11:48,640
(CONTINUE TO CHAT IN FRENCH)

171
00:11:48,802 --> 00:11:50,201
To smile...

172
00:12:23,255 --> 00:12:26,213
When we went to Libya,
a difficult country to get into,

173
00:12:26,375 --> 00:12:28,127
difficult to get permission to go there...

174
00:12:28,295 --> 00:12:30,763
One reason why we could film in Libya

175
00:12:30,975 --> 00:12:35,207
is that we attached ourselves to
a reunion party of veterans of Tobruk.

176
00:12:35,375 --> 00:12:39,926
Erm... They were all people who had
fought in the battle of Tobruk, 1940-'41.

177
00:12:40,095 --> 00:12:44,327
It was the sixtieth anniversary and the
last time a lot of these guys went back.

178
00:12:44,495 --> 00:12:46,770
It's made a nice sequence
for the programme.

179
00:12:46,935 --> 00:12:49,165
There was more than we could use.

180
00:12:49,335 --> 00:12:54,204
In particular, I remember wonderful shots
of the graves themselves,

181
00:12:54,375 --> 00:13:00,166
and the way they're beautifully kept
by a Libyan gardener and his wife,

182
00:13:00,335 --> 00:13:02,803
in very difficult circumstances,
there's little water there.

183
00:13:02,975 --> 00:13:05,773
It's hard to grow plants,
but he keeps them immaculately.

184
00:13:05,935 --> 00:13:08,324
I also remember talking to other vets.

185
00:13:08,495 --> 00:13:10,929
There was a wonderful man called
Ray Ellis,

186
00:13:11,095 --> 00:13:14,883
who was actually captured and taken
to a prison camp in Italy,

187
00:13:15,055 --> 00:13:17,694
and he's written a book
about his experiences.

188
00:13:17,855 --> 00:13:24,294
And he just told a most wonderful story
about his journey back to Italy.

189
00:13:25,775 --> 00:13:27,572
(BAGPIPES PLAY)

190
00:13:34,735 --> 00:13:36,168
I'm 81 now.

191
00:13:36,335 --> 00:13:37,814
This is probably my last trip.

192
00:13:38,015 --> 00:13:39,448
But you never know,

193
00:13:39,615 --> 00:13:41,924
we Desert Rats seem to
go on and on.

194
00:13:43,215 --> 00:13:47,003
WE know tHis is tHE last timE
wE'rE going to comE back.

195
00:13:47,175 --> 00:13:50,247
I'vE bEEn back tHrEE timEs bEforE.

196
00:13:50,415 --> 00:13:52,724
WE know tHis will bE tHE last onE.

197
00:13:52,935 --> 00:13:55,244
WE'vE all rEacHEd tHE agE wHErE, um,

198
00:13:55,455 --> 00:13:58,572
I'm afraid, wE can't ExpEct to
bE coming back again.

199
00:14:04,975 --> 00:14:07,728
(BUGLE CALLS THE LAST POST)

200
00:14:30,335 --> 00:14:33,850
All so young, you know -
twenty-one, twenty.

201
00:14:34,055 --> 00:14:38,128
And very often twenty
means a bride of nineteen.

202
00:14:38,855 --> 00:14:42,291
And nineteen means
a bride of seventeen perhaps.

203
00:14:42,455 --> 00:14:45,492
And we think now of them,
and they're eighty.

204
00:14:45,655 --> 00:14:47,611
One thinks of that.

205
00:14:48,975 --> 00:14:51,364
We will remember them.

206
00:14:51,895 --> 00:14:54,489
(ALL) We will remember them.

207
00:15:01,135 --> 00:15:04,764
I was taken prisoner
where all these men died.

208
00:15:04,935 --> 00:15:06,288
Then we were dragged across,

209
00:15:06,455 --> 00:15:10,971
- I say "dragged" because it's too long
and too horrible a story to relate now -

210
00:15:11,135 --> 00:15:12,568
all the way to Tripoli.

211
00:15:12,735 --> 00:15:15,124
And many men, MANY men died on
the way

212
00:15:15,295 --> 00:15:17,809
of dysentery and starvation
and all sorts of things.

213
00:15:17,975 --> 00:15:20,489
(MICHAEL) Were you marched
through the desert or in vehicles?

214
00:15:20,655 --> 00:15:23,692
First we marched.
We had to march for water.

215
00:15:23,855 --> 00:15:26,653
And many men died on the way.

216
00:15:26,815 --> 00:15:30,888
They didn't die of thirst, the Germans
mercifully shot them as they fell.

217
00:15:31,055 --> 00:15:34,604
They dispatched them
so they didn't die of thirst.

218
00:15:34,775 --> 00:15:36,891
That wasn't being cruel, it was kindness.

219
00:15:37,055 --> 00:15:40,206
Erm, then we were dragged
all the way to Tripoli.

220
00:15:40,375 --> 00:15:43,094
Then we went across to Naples

221
00:15:43,255 --> 00:15:45,405
on a cargo ship,

222
00:15:45,575 --> 00:15:48,851
in the bottom of the hold, battened down,
praying.

223
00:15:49,015 --> 00:15:51,529
The most frightening journey of my life.

224
00:15:51,695 --> 00:15:55,131
That we weren't sunk by the RAF
or the Navy, our navy!

225
00:15:55,295 --> 00:16:00,528
We got to Naples and were taken to
a town called Capua, near Naples.

226
00:16:00,695 --> 00:16:08,932
And we were a dirty, lousy, filthy,
unshaven, thin, begrimed group of men.

227
00:16:09,095 --> 00:16:12,007
And in this way they marched us
through the streets.

228
00:16:12,175 --> 00:16:15,053
It was propaganda, saying
"This is the British Army."

229
00:16:15,215 --> 00:16:20,608
And the population were jeering
and mocking, and I hated them!

230
00:16:20,775 --> 00:16:22,766
I was full of hatred.

231
00:16:22,935 --> 00:16:26,484
And then something happened
which has lived with me all my life.

232
00:16:27,815 --> 00:16:30,852
A girl came from the back of the crowd

233
00:16:31,175 --> 00:16:33,609
and ran and put a peach in my hand.

234
00:16:35,015 --> 00:16:37,404
It... was fantastic!

235
00:16:37,575 --> 00:16:42,251
Erm... And all my life afterwards,
when things have been very bad,

236
00:16:42,415 --> 00:16:45,771
I've always thought,
"Somewhere there is a girl with a peach."

237
00:16:46,295 --> 00:16:49,970
Someone with another idea,
with another thought,

238
00:16:50,135 --> 00:16:53,172
who isn't following the general trend.

239
00:16:53,335 --> 00:16:57,692
As I say, that girl with the peach,
has lived with me all my life.

240
00:16:58,175 --> 00:17:01,406
There are Libyans buried here
in this cemetery, is that right?

241
00:17:01,575 --> 00:17:03,008
Er... four.

242
00:17:03,735 --> 00:17:05,726
I always take them poppies.

243
00:17:06,775 --> 00:17:09,050
The Libyan grave doesn't say,
"Rest in peace,"

244
00:17:09,215 --> 00:17:12,252
it says, "He is forgiven."

245
00:17:15,535 --> 00:17:18,652
(MICHAEL) The graveyards here
are perfectly maintained,

246
00:17:18,815 --> 00:17:20,407
they're absolutely immaculate.

247
00:17:20,575 --> 00:17:23,965
They're maintained by a Libyan.
Can you tell me about him?

248
00:17:24,135 --> 00:17:29,493
His name is Hajji Mohammed,
because he has made the Hajj to Mecca.

249
00:17:30,335 --> 00:17:35,250
And he is the father of these,
he calls them his boys.

250
00:17:35,415 --> 00:17:41,047
I've heard him say to a grieving daughter,
"Don't worry, I'll look after your dad,"

251
00:17:41,495 --> 00:17:43,326
in Arabic.

252
00:17:48,437 --> 00:17:51,747
Libya is quite a strange country to be in.

253
00:17:51,917 --> 00:17:53,987
Not that people aren't friendly,

254
00:17:54,157 --> 00:17:55,590
but it's very difficult to find them!

255
00:17:55,757 --> 00:18:00,308
It is a HUGE country, with a population
about the size of Greater London.

256
00:18:00,477 --> 00:18:02,991
So we went through towns
that seemed almost deserted.

257
00:18:03,157 --> 00:18:08,231
And to add to that, some of the
most beautiful places in and around Libya

258
00:18:08,397 --> 00:18:11,150
are the old Classical Greek
and Roman sites.

259
00:18:11,317 --> 00:18:13,308
There's a place called Leptis Magna,

260
00:18:13,477 --> 00:18:17,834
which is just a wonderfully preserved
major Roman city.

261
00:18:17,997 --> 00:18:21,228
I think it's well preserved because
very few people visit it.

262
00:18:21,397 --> 00:18:24,787
But we were there.
And it was silent most of the time.

263
00:18:24,957 --> 00:18:29,109
And suddenly children poured into
the amphitheatre where we were filming,

264
00:18:29,277 --> 00:18:33,634
all sat in rows and began to sing.
I wasn't sure what it was all about.

265
00:18:33,797 --> 00:18:38,313
But it was wonderful to suddenly have
these dry, dead stones come to life

266
00:18:38,477 --> 00:18:41,150
through the Libyan schoolchildren.

267
00:18:41,517 --> 00:18:44,714
(CHILDREN SING)

268
00:19:24,530 --> 00:19:28,000
Oh, right, yeah.
These have come from the road? Yeah.

269
00:19:29,530 --> 00:19:33,842
They've just... just walked in
from the bush, he said.

270
00:19:34,010 --> 00:19:35,409
Yeah.

271
00:19:35,570 --> 00:19:38,368
- (MAN SPEAKS IN FRENCH)
- Yeah. Just for the (INDISTINCT).

272
00:19:38,530 --> 00:19:41,442
- (BOY) Bonjour.
- Bonjour. Shall we go this way?

273
00:19:42,010 --> 00:19:44,001
(RAPID SPEECH OVER PA SYSTEM)

274
00:19:51,930 --> 00:19:55,718
So much choice! They've suddenly
got here so much choice.

275
00:19:55,890 --> 00:19:58,165
It's bewildering after what they had
at home,

276
00:19:58,330 --> 00:20:02,881
where they would exist if they
didn't have millet, if they just have milk.

277
00:20:03,050 --> 00:20:08,204
So here it must be dazzling. This strange
rap, we have to find out what that is.

278
00:20:11,770 --> 00:20:14,204
(FAST RAP-LIKE SPEECH)

279
00:20:17,330 --> 00:20:20,447
They're basically selling noise, I think.

280
00:20:33,210 --> 00:20:35,007
Do you like this... sound?

281
00:20:41,050 --> 00:20:43,518
Is this from Agadez?

282
00:20:43,690 --> 00:20:45,885
(UNCLEAR SPEECH)

283
00:20:46,050 --> 00:20:47,449
Yes.

284
00:20:47,770 --> 00:20:49,806
(CONTINUES RAP-LIKE SPEECH)

285
00:20:59,610 --> 00:21:01,919
(FEEDBACK FROM SOUND SYSTEM)

286
00:21:06,191 --> 00:21:09,103
(CHATTING IN FRENCH)

287
00:21:12,751 --> 00:21:14,742
Rice.

288
00:21:22,111 --> 00:21:24,750
It's good sort of fuel this, not what I'd
normally have for breakfast.

289
00:21:24,911 --> 00:21:28,221
But, you know, I've got whatever it is,

290
00:21:28,431 --> 00:21:31,787
twelve to fifteen hours of... walking.

291
00:21:31,951 --> 00:21:34,385
It'll probably be

292
00:21:35,271 --> 00:21:39,025
the only meal I have for about another
eight or nine hours.

293
00:21:39,591 --> 00:21:43,584
Hence the chomping.
The camel-like chomping

294
00:21:43,751 --> 00:21:45,184
is familiar.

295
00:21:48,951 --> 00:21:52,102
It's thick and coarse,
and quite a bit of sand in this.

296
00:21:54,991 --> 00:21:56,868
(CAMEL GRUNTS LOUDLY)

297
00:22:10,293 --> 00:22:12,045
OnE HundrEd.

298
00:22:13,773 --> 00:22:15,172
Fifty.

299
00:22:15,333 --> 00:22:16,846
Forty. THirty.

300
00:22:17,013 --> 00:22:19,004
TwEnty. TEn.

301
00:22:29,533 --> 00:22:32,093
Reverse to Route A.

302
00:22:34,213 --> 00:22:38,286
(TRAFFIC CONTROL) May I have your
destination? Hassi-Massaoud or Algiers?

303
00:22:38,453 --> 00:22:39,852
(PILOT) Algiers.

304
00:22:40,013 --> 00:22:42,004
(TRAFFIC CONTROL) Yeah copied.

305
00:22:59,413 --> 00:23:02,246
- It will last tens of years.
- Tens of years?

306
00:23:02,413 --> 00:23:07,009
Years. Yeah. It's very long.
We can speak easily for hundred years.

307
00:23:07,453 --> 00:23:11,526
It's amazing to be here. It's like sort of
the lungs of the country.

308
00:23:11,693 --> 00:23:16,050
The gas pumping out.
Is any of this going to Great Britain?

309
00:23:16,213 --> 00:23:19,250
- Sorry?
- Is any of this going to the UK?

310
00:23:19,413 --> 00:23:21,802
- Not through this pipeline.
- Not through that.

311
00:23:21,973 --> 00:23:25,807
I just thought I could send a message,
you know, to our gas cooker!

312
00:23:25,973 --> 00:23:28,612
- OK!
- Probably be another month's time!

313
00:23:28,773 --> 00:23:31,731
- Coming through!
- Even you can go, it's forty-eight inches.

314
00:23:31,973 --> 00:23:35,010
- All right, I'll go through!
- It's a colossal way!

315
00:23:41,307 --> 00:23:43,104
Those are some of the big moments,
the larger scenes

316
00:23:43,267 --> 00:23:48,022
that never made it. There are lots more
little moments which never made it.

317
00:23:48,187 --> 00:23:51,259
And I do regret that
a lot of them aren't there.

318
00:23:51,427 --> 00:23:54,066
But Alex, our genius editor,
has put a few together.

319
00:23:56,322 --> 00:23:57,721
(INDISTINCT)

320
00:23:57,882 --> 00:24:01,158
- Can we look at this.
- Thank you very much. (INDISTINCT)

321
00:24:01,322 --> 00:24:04,871
Big church. Very good. Very happy.

322
00:24:05,042 --> 00:24:08,398
You know, chaplain this one,
from America.

323
00:24:08,562 --> 00:24:13,158
(INDISTINCT) Four years been here.
A service!

324
00:24:13,322 --> 00:24:18,316
Thank you very much. After the service,
told me, "Mustapha, goodbye."

325
00:24:18,482 --> 00:24:22,714
Thank you very much. Remember.
My name be here. Can you speak?

326
00:24:22,882 --> 00:24:27,000
Yes, "Reverend John Hind on the first
visit to Tangiers, Palm Sunday 1995."

327
00:24:27,162 --> 00:24:28,834
- "By Mustafa Chergui."

328
00:24:29,002 --> 00:24:31,118
(CORRECTS PRONUNCIATION)
Thank you very much.

329
00:24:31,282 --> 00:24:32,795
"Mustafa Chergui, Sexton."

330
00:24:32,962 --> 00:24:35,681
"Photo by Lancelot Taylor,
Church Warden."

331
00:24:35,882 --> 00:24:38,032
- Thank you very much.
- Splendid.

332
00:24:38,202 --> 00:24:41,433
- Yes, ME, picture!
- That's you. There you are!

333
00:24:41,602 --> 00:24:44,480
- A little bit younger.
- Thank you very much.

334
00:24:44,642 --> 00:24:47,076
You work very hard!

335
00:24:47,242 --> 00:24:50,951
The chaplains come and go,
but Mustapha goes on forever!

336
00:24:52,602 --> 00:24:54,718
- Thank you very much.
- Thank YOU very much.

337
00:25:58,983 --> 00:26:01,019
Agh-h-h!

338
00:26:06,757 --> 00:26:08,475
Oof!

339
00:26:10,677 --> 00:26:12,076
(LAUGHTER)

340
00:26:12,237 --> 00:26:15,547
Yeah! That's OK(!)
That just blast right across my face.

341
00:26:15,757 --> 00:26:19,636
It's OK. I know how you feel now.

342
00:26:19,797 --> 00:26:22,231
- Ooh!
- Well, it worked.

343
00:26:22,397 --> 00:26:24,388
I preferred it when it wasn't working.

344
00:26:24,557 --> 00:26:26,115
(LAUGHTER)

345
00:26:26,677 --> 00:26:29,271
- Are you all right?
- Yes.

346
00:26:30,717 --> 00:26:32,912
I got that right across the face.

347
00:26:33,077 --> 00:26:34,476
It's OK.

348
00:26:36,077 --> 00:26:38,147
Should've kept the spectacles on.

349
00:26:40,197 --> 00:26:42,631
It's OK. I can still wink.

350
00:26:42,797 --> 00:26:44,549
(MAN SPEAKS INDISTINCTLY)

351
00:26:44,717 --> 00:26:46,912
- (MICHAEL) It's all right.
- It's OK.

352
00:26:47,997 --> 00:26:51,467
Just take a bit of the... shrapnel out there.

353
00:26:53,397 --> 00:26:56,116
(INDISTINCT CHAT)

354
00:26:56,437 --> 00:26:57,836
(MICHAEL LAUGHS)

355
00:26:59,157 --> 00:27:01,273
Ah, get rid of the wrinkles.

356
00:27:06,477 --> 00:27:09,833
That's all right.
A bullet hole's rather a nice cosmetic...

357
00:27:12,077 --> 00:27:13,476
- You want medicine?
- OK.

358
00:27:13,637 --> 00:27:16,674
- MEdicinE, yEaH.
- I think this is OK.

359
00:27:16,837 --> 00:27:19,635
- No, it's not.
- It's not in my eye.

360
00:27:19,797 --> 00:27:26,111
- It's not in your eyes, not in your eyes.
- Yeah. Yeah. (SPEAKS IN FRENCH)

361
00:27:32,690 --> 00:27:35,329
(HUMS TO HIMSELF)

362
00:27:50,530 --> 00:27:52,805
(TAP GURGLES AND SPLUTTERS)

363
00:28:20,463 --> 00:28:23,182
I want to buck the trend,
reverse the process,

364
00:28:23,343 --> 00:28:27,382
to see where people have come from,
not where they are going to.

365
00:28:27,543 --> 00:28:29,898
I want to... I want... I want... Nyah.

366
00:28:30,303 --> 00:28:34,057
I want to go back to see where people
came from, not where they're going to.

367
00:28:34,623 --> 00:28:36,375
I want to escape... oh-h!

368
00:28:37,623 --> 00:28:40,456
Beyond those mountains today
is the Sahara desert,

369
00:28:40,623 --> 00:28:42,056
which is about...

370
00:28:42,223 --> 00:28:45,738
Erm... Three thousand miles across.
I ran out of things to say.

371
00:28:46,343 --> 00:28:49,494
I want to reverse the trend,
go the other way.

372
00:28:49,663 --> 00:28:52,257
I want to go... Oh-h. Buck the trend...

373
00:28:52,703 --> 00:28:56,332
Throughout recent history people
have wanted to leave the desert...

374
00:28:56,503 --> 00:28:58,573
People have escaped the desert... Sorry!

375
00:28:58,943 --> 00:29:01,537
Throughout recent history
people have tried to escape the desert.

376
00:29:01,703 --> 00:29:04,137
From the Arabs who came here
thirteen centuries ago

377
00:29:04,303 --> 00:29:07,693
to thousands of Africans
who risk their lives, who...

378
00:29:09,263 --> 00:29:13,176
I want to reverse the trend.
I want to go back... (SIGHS)

379
00:29:14,903 --> 00:29:17,736
I want to reverse the process,
buck the trend.

380
00:29:17,943 --> 00:29:20,855
I'm more interested
not where people have come from...

381
00:29:23,063 --> 00:29:25,816
I'm standing on top of
the Rock of Gibraltar.

382
00:29:25,983 --> 00:29:29,020
Fifteen miles across the water
are the mountains of Morocco.

383
00:29:29,183 --> 00:29:31,743
That mountain in Africa
and this mountain here

384
00:29:31,903 --> 00:29:34,701
were known to the Greeks and Romans
as the Pillars of Hercules.

385
00:29:34,863 --> 00:29:37,138
They were the end
of the civilised world.

386
00:29:37,303 --> 00:29:38,861
Beyond that, complete darkness.

387
00:29:39,023 --> 00:29:43,892
Beyond those mountains, less than 300
miles from where I'm standing now,

388
00:29:44,063 --> 00:29:45,621
is the Sahara desert.

389
00:29:45,783 --> 00:29:48,092
As unexplored a place
as anywhere.

390
00:29:48,263 --> 00:29:50,857
And that's where my new journey
is taking me.

391
00:29:52,303 --> 00:29:55,261
And I'm so excited, I wet myself(!)