1 00:00:35,560 --> 00:00:42,000 The mighty Mississippi River is the theme of this part of my journey and I'll be following it from here 2 00:00:42,000 --> 00:00:44,760 at its sultry southernmost tip in Louisiana 3 00:00:44,760 --> 00:00:49,400 to its source in the snowy wastes of Minnesota on the Canadian border. 4 00:00:53,360 --> 00:00:57,960 Welcome to the Mardi Gras, Planet Earth, come on down to the best free party in the world! 5 00:00:57,960 --> 00:01:00,800 HE YELLS 6 00:01:00,800 --> 00:01:05,440 I'm in the French Quarter of New Orleans, Louisiana 7 00:01:05,440 --> 00:01:08,720 and today is Shrove Tuesday, which they call Mardi Gras, 8 00:01:08,720 --> 00:01:11,720 the French for Fat Tuesday and everyone is celebrating, 9 00:01:11,720 --> 00:01:14,480 not only the last chance to feast before Lent, 10 00:01:14,480 --> 00:01:18,520 but also the beginnings of the rebirth of this unique city 11 00:01:18,520 --> 00:01:21,840 after the catastrophe that was Hurricane Katrina. 12 00:01:21,840 --> 00:01:24,600 You might notice I'm wearing a sling, that's because 13 00:01:24,600 --> 00:01:28,040 I've broken my arm and ten bolts are holding the bones together. 14 00:01:28,040 --> 00:01:32,920 I shan't be felling any trees, but I'm hoping it will be healing as we go. 15 00:01:32,920 --> 00:01:36,160 Welcome aboard Pan Am flight 69. 16 00:01:36,160 --> 00:01:42,320 If there's a word that makes me shiver with revulsion, it's the word "fun". 17 00:01:42,320 --> 00:01:47,200 And here, human beings are having fun with the most capital of "f"s imaginable 18 00:01:47,200 --> 00:01:51,160 but actually, it is quite infectious and the spirit is good. 19 00:01:51,160 --> 00:01:54,120 One wonders how many of the revellers here 20 00:01:54,120 --> 00:01:59,640 are actually taking the religious point of view and will tomorrow foreswear meat and celebration. 21 00:01:59,640 --> 00:02:01,400 Not many, I suspect. 22 00:02:05,000 --> 00:02:07,520 It's a very extraordinary event. 23 00:02:07,520 --> 00:02:10,560 It combines so much that one associates with New Orleans, 24 00:02:10,560 --> 00:02:16,120 a slight hint of the macabre, which obsesses this torrid and steamy place, 25 00:02:16,120 --> 00:02:19,200 plus a general feeling that there is no tomorrow. 26 00:02:21,720 --> 00:02:25,280 While Mardi Gras is a resolutely Catholic festival, 27 00:02:25,280 --> 00:02:29,520 Catholicism, which came first with the Spanish and then the French colonists, 28 00:02:29,520 --> 00:02:32,360 is not really the defining faith of New Orleans. 29 00:02:32,360 --> 00:02:38,080 At the core of people's spiritual life here is the mysterious religion known as voodoo. 30 00:02:41,680 --> 00:02:46,080 Sallie Ann Glassman, a Jewish lady from Kennebunkport, Maine 31 00:02:46,080 --> 00:02:49,920 seems a rather unlikely voodoo high priestess. 32 00:02:51,000 --> 00:02:55,600 Voodoo is the backbone of this city that is 33 00:02:55,600 --> 00:02:57,800 an absolute part of the culture. 34 00:02:59,920 --> 00:03:05,280 It's in the rhythms you hear, filtering through all of New Orleans music. 35 00:03:07,920 --> 00:03:13,240 Voodoo recognises that there is a whole invisible realm around us. 36 00:03:13,240 --> 00:03:20,120 Between God and humanity are myriad intermediary ancestral spirits. 37 00:03:20,120 --> 00:03:24,880 They have maybe a different prospective on life. 38 00:03:28,040 --> 00:03:31,960 One of the things that you learn as you become a priest in voodoo is 39 00:03:31,960 --> 00:03:36,240 how to reach into that invisible realm and pull that potential out. 40 00:03:50,800 --> 00:03:58,440 In popular imagination, voodoo is more associated than anything else with sticking pins in effigies, 41 00:03:58,440 --> 00:04:05,640 with zombieism, with curses, with slaughtering cockerels and white chickens 42 00:04:05,640 --> 00:04:09,200 and blood, it's considered a very dark religion, isn't it? 43 00:04:09,200 --> 00:04:11,760 Well, it's completely erroneous. 44 00:04:14,800 --> 00:04:22,000 Voodoo is a mix of African traditions that came over with slavery into the New World. 45 00:04:22,000 --> 00:04:27,640 It encountered European Catholicism and native American practises and also masonry. 46 00:04:27,640 --> 00:04:32,800 So voodoo is really a gumbo of all of these different traditions. 47 00:04:43,960 --> 00:04:48,720 'I'm no more a believer in the power of voodoo than in the Virgin Mary, 48 00:04:48,720 --> 00:04:54,800 'but my arm is hurting and I recognise a good placebo when I see one.' 49 00:04:57,160 --> 00:05:02,280 I think that New Orleans, because of the presence of voodoo here, 50 00:05:02,280 --> 00:05:05,720 has a chance of surviving Katrina. 51 00:05:05,720 --> 00:05:07,920 - Really? - Because voodoo was a religion 52 00:05:07,920 --> 00:05:11,680 that allowed people to endure what was truly unendurable, 53 00:05:11,680 --> 00:05:17,520 the conditions of slavery, and gave them the strength and the resilience 54 00:05:17,520 --> 00:05:21,720 and the creativity to survive whatever happened to them. 55 00:05:21,720 --> 00:05:27,000 In 2005, Hurricane Katrina screamed in and destroyed much of New Orleans 56 00:05:27,000 --> 00:05:33,040 when the levees, these high banks that hold back the Mississippi and the lakes around the city, broke. 57 00:05:33,040 --> 00:05:36,680 Nowhere felt the immediate and long term effects of the hurricane 58 00:05:36,680 --> 00:05:39,320 more than the predominantly black lower ninth ward, 59 00:05:39,320 --> 00:05:43,320 a district of New Orleans that lies below the main canal. 60 00:05:43,320 --> 00:05:46,840 90% of the houses were destroyed and three years on, 61 00:05:46,840 --> 00:05:50,880 practically nothing has been done to re-build the community. 62 00:05:50,880 --> 00:05:54,880 'I meet up with Isaiah, who was on his second tour of duty 63 00:05:54,880 --> 00:05:58,400 'with the US Marines in Iraq when the storm hit.' 64 00:05:58,400 --> 00:06:01,800 You know, when I came back home... 65 00:06:01,800 --> 00:06:04,840 I would have like these flashes in my mind, you know, 66 00:06:04,840 --> 00:06:07,360 cos I used to walk, I used to roam these streets. 67 00:06:07,360 --> 00:06:11,880 - My school's right back here. - Yeah. So that's the school there? 68 00:06:11,880 --> 00:06:16,560 - Yeah, this is Alfred Lawless. - Oh... Good Lord. 69 00:06:16,560 --> 00:06:19,040 Oh, there it is, senior high school. 70 00:06:22,120 --> 00:06:24,360 This is how Iraq is. 71 00:06:24,360 --> 00:06:27,520 - A bunch of torn down buildings. - Yeah. 72 00:06:27,520 --> 00:06:30,160 Grass, you know, grown sky high. 73 00:06:30,160 --> 00:06:34,800 - The streets ridiculously undriveable, you know. - Yeah, yeah. 74 00:06:34,800 --> 00:06:38,680 Desolate, quiet, you know, I feel like I'm on a patrol right now 75 00:06:38,680 --> 00:06:43,520 and then what made it worse was seeing the National Guard 76 00:06:43,520 --> 00:06:47,200 - riding around in their Humvees, you know. - Oh, here? - Yeah, here. 77 00:06:47,200 --> 00:06:50,280 - Yes, they still do. - Right. - They patrol around in Humvees 78 00:06:50,280 --> 00:06:55,240 and there's just no need for that escalation of force, because number one, nobody's here. 79 00:06:57,240 --> 00:07:02,280 If this was a middle-class white neighbourhood, I cannot believe it would be in this situation. 80 00:07:02,280 --> 00:07:04,880 - It would not be in this situation. - No. 81 00:07:04,880 --> 00:07:08,480 I mean, I love the United States of America, you know. 82 00:07:08,480 --> 00:07:15,040 I love my country, but you look at the name - the United States of America - 83 00:07:15,040 --> 00:07:19,560 I mean, here, I hardly see unity, you know. 84 00:07:25,880 --> 00:07:31,120 I leave the French Quarter cleansed of its revelries, safe on its high ground, 85 00:07:31,120 --> 00:07:37,800 secure in its history and proud of its un-Americanness, to start my journey northwards, 86 00:07:37,800 --> 00:07:42,120 up the Mississippi, the river that runs through the heart of this great country. 87 00:07:46,720 --> 00:07:49,280 The sheer scale of the river is overwhelming. 88 00:07:49,280 --> 00:07:55,240 It disgorges half a million cubic feet per second and in places is more than a mile wide. 89 00:07:55,240 --> 00:07:58,080 Old Man River is also a great defining line. 90 00:07:58,080 --> 00:08:02,320 Americans often identify a place by its being east or west of the Mississippi. 91 00:08:02,320 --> 00:08:05,840 I'll be travelling more than a thousand miles along its banks, 92 00:08:05,840 --> 00:08:08,880 then through the mid-western plains to the Great Lakes 93 00:08:08,880 --> 00:08:11,400 and their big cities of Detroit and Chicago 94 00:08:11,400 --> 00:08:14,440 until I approach the river's source in Minnesota. 95 00:08:17,920 --> 00:08:23,160 Well, one thing you can say for certain about the State of Louisiana and that is it's always been 96 00:08:23,160 --> 00:08:28,160 pretty hard on its criminals and the State Penitentiary of Louisiana 97 00:08:28,160 --> 00:08:34,280 has a name that has struck fear into the heart of hardened lifers everywhere. 98 00:08:34,280 --> 00:08:37,760 Angola State Penitentiary it's called. 99 00:08:37,760 --> 00:08:40,960 It's probably the most notorious jail in America. 100 00:08:43,640 --> 00:08:46,160 It's a hopeless place, quite literally. 101 00:08:46,160 --> 00:08:49,800 Just about 90% of the prisoners have no hope of parole. 102 00:08:49,800 --> 00:08:52,760 They will end their lives in Angola. 103 00:08:52,760 --> 00:08:57,080 Angola Prison is popularly known as The Farm for good reason. 104 00:08:57,080 --> 00:09:00,320 Its 5,000 inmates, the majority in for murder, 105 00:09:00,320 --> 00:09:03,760 are spread out on its 18,000 acres to work the land 106 00:09:03,760 --> 00:09:06,440 and they're housed in a series of camps. 107 00:09:06,440 --> 00:09:11,520 Warden Burl Cain, who runs the prison, is a legendary figure in the American penal system. 108 00:09:13,040 --> 00:09:16,600 We're going to go into my prison here through all these gates. 109 00:09:16,600 --> 00:09:19,520 - You're not carrying any knives or guns? - No, we're not. 110 00:09:19,520 --> 00:09:22,200 - OK, I'm going to keep you with me, so... - Yes. 111 00:09:22,200 --> 00:09:26,680 We're going to be cooled here, but we're gonna not do all the searching. 112 00:09:26,680 --> 00:09:31,200 There's more human suffering on this land than probably anywhere in America. 113 00:09:32,320 --> 00:09:39,040 'When he came here 13 years ago, Angola was a cesspit of gangs, drugs and terrible violence. 114 00:09:39,040 --> 00:09:43,080 PRISONERS SHOUT 115 00:09:43,080 --> 00:09:49,480 'Today, it's become a model of how a prison can work, one he's proud to show off.' 116 00:09:49,480 --> 00:09:52,880 We just passed death row back there too. That other place. 117 00:09:52,880 --> 00:09:55,400 - Is death row down there? - Yep. 118 00:09:55,400 --> 00:09:58,400 We have a coffin maker that makes coffins. 119 00:09:58,400 --> 00:10:01,040 We almost bury more people than we release. 120 00:10:01,040 --> 00:10:05,080 # Well, I'm tired and so weary 121 00:10:05,080 --> 00:10:09,320 # But I mustn't go alone... # 122 00:10:09,320 --> 00:10:14,000 Burl Cain's vision for the prisoner's rehabilitation is 123 00:10:14,000 --> 00:10:16,520 a curious mix of Christian morality, 124 00:10:16,520 --> 00:10:21,080 good ol' boy paternalism and stern liberalism. 125 00:10:21,080 --> 00:10:26,840 We've gotta live life here and we've gotta have hope where there's no hope and we found morality and religion. 126 00:10:26,840 --> 00:10:32,760 We don't care what religion, we just look for morality, immoral people are criminals in life. 127 00:10:32,760 --> 00:10:36,120 The moral are not criminals. They don't rape, pilfer and steal. 128 00:10:36,120 --> 00:10:41,960 Immoral is what is the criminals, so if we can train an inmate to be moral, we've rehabilitated them. 129 00:10:52,560 --> 00:10:56,600 Every inmate here has a job. That gives them meaning and purpose in life. 130 00:10:58,280 --> 00:11:01,880 You think that a prisoner who murdered somebody 131 00:11:01,880 --> 00:11:05,800 did this and it's his way to give back and say I'm sorry. 132 00:11:05,800 --> 00:11:09,480 You know, and I'm asking forgiveness for what I did so horrible. 133 00:11:09,480 --> 00:11:13,840 - Yes. - This man is not going to be prone to commit the violence he did in the past. 134 00:11:13,840 --> 00:11:17,120 - And you'd do it for nothing, wouldn't ya? - Yes, sir. 135 00:11:17,120 --> 00:11:21,240 I'm bragging about you, hear that? LAUGHTER 136 00:11:21,240 --> 00:11:24,320 - That's a paediatric. - Oh, right. - Uh-huh. - Yeah. 137 00:11:24,320 --> 00:11:26,360 - That why I build them strong. - Yeah. 138 00:11:26,360 --> 00:11:29,040 - I test ride them to make sure. - Right. Do you really? 139 00:11:29,040 --> 00:11:32,560 - If I can fit in that. - Yeah, not that, you'd probably have trouble. 140 00:11:32,560 --> 00:11:37,200 - I've been Angola now for ten years. - Ten years? - Yeah. 141 00:11:37,200 --> 00:11:39,960 Do you mind me asking what you did to be here? 142 00:11:39,960 --> 00:11:43,680 - Yeah, I'm on a drugs charge. - A drugs charge? - Yeah. 143 00:11:43,680 --> 00:11:46,840 - Yeah. But you're off drugs now, are you? - Yeah. - You're clean? 144 00:11:46,840 --> 00:11:49,920 - Yeah, I'm clean, clean, sure. - Is it a clean prison here? 145 00:11:49,920 --> 00:11:52,800 Huh, yeah. Pretty much, you know. 146 00:12:01,320 --> 00:12:04,960 There's a field line coming to work, see how the line is marching? 147 00:12:04,960 --> 00:12:09,760 - And they're going out, they have a guard walking in front. - Oh, my, my. 148 00:12:09,760 --> 00:12:13,520 And we raise everything we eat. We don't open a can. 149 00:12:13,520 --> 00:12:18,440 - Cos I don't do chain gangs, that's why I have the Correction Officer with the gun. - Yeah. 150 00:12:18,440 --> 00:12:23,800 And if they run away, we're going to shoot a warning shot and the next shot we're going to shoot to wound. 151 00:12:23,800 --> 00:12:27,560 You shoot the gun. You know, I don't just, make the noise. 152 00:12:27,560 --> 00:12:32,880 But if they don't shoot, then the other inmates will all try to climb the fence. So shoot the gun. 153 00:12:35,480 --> 00:12:38,920 - I have 88 on death row. - 88. - They don't go out to work. - No. 154 00:12:38,920 --> 00:12:43,840 I would be afraid they would try to run away, to commit suicide by making us shoot them. 155 00:12:51,360 --> 00:12:53,880 There's repercussions if you aren't good. 156 00:12:53,880 --> 00:12:57,120 You'll lose some privileges you really don't want to lose. 157 00:12:57,120 --> 00:13:02,520 'Driving through his mini-state, it may seem security is pretty lax, 158 00:13:02,520 --> 00:13:05,640 'but Warden Burl soon sets me straight.' 159 00:13:05,640 --> 00:13:12,480 There's 18,000 acres here. This is as large as Manhattan Island, so it's hard to get away from us. 160 00:13:12,480 --> 00:13:16,000 You gotta run a long way before you get onto somebody else's land. 161 00:13:16,000 --> 00:13:20,200 See where the wild hog route right there on the southern levy, on the ridge is wild hogs. 162 00:13:20,200 --> 00:13:22,320 - You've got wild hogs here? - Wild hogs are dangerous. 163 00:13:22,320 --> 00:13:28,400 If you go into woods, they know if they run in the wood they gotta go through the rattlesnakes. 164 00:13:28,400 --> 00:13:33,520 We have the panther and we have the bear and we have the wild hogs. 165 00:13:33,520 --> 00:13:38,040 - We see alligators here. - Really? - A lot of alligators. - Another thing to stop you escaping. 166 00:13:38,040 --> 00:13:42,640 Alligators are my guards. They all know they are here, so I have too many guards. 167 00:13:42,640 --> 00:13:44,160 DOG BARKS 168 00:13:44,160 --> 00:13:49,000 Alligators like to eat dogs, so when we run a blood hound we don't want them chasing the dog. 169 00:13:49,000 --> 00:13:52,520 We have the finest bloodhounds in the country. We can find you. 170 00:13:53,680 --> 00:13:58,200 Shall we set the soundman or maybe the director actually, JP, 171 00:13:58,200 --> 00:14:00,840 Shall we send him to the woods and get him chased? 172 00:14:00,840 --> 00:14:04,360 - I'd love to see that. - If he runs, I promise you we'll have him back. 173 00:14:04,360 --> 00:14:07,600 - He has a strong smell. - We could follow him to England. - I could! 174 00:14:13,320 --> 00:14:19,000 I escape the seductive if sometimes indecipherable southern drawl of Warden Burl, 175 00:14:19,000 --> 00:14:23,400 who seems to have stepped out of a Tennessee Williams play and leaving Louisiana, 176 00:14:23,400 --> 00:14:29,240 drive to the old cotton town of Natchez, the architectural jewel in the State of Mississippi. 177 00:14:35,760 --> 00:14:38,400 This is the town of Natchez, 178 00:14:38,400 --> 00:14:42,640 one of the great well-preserved southern towns. 179 00:14:46,320 --> 00:14:51,160 Filled with antebellum homes, pre-Civil War houses. 180 00:14:51,160 --> 00:14:56,240 Got rich on cotton and slavery. 181 00:15:04,080 --> 00:15:07,760 This journey is taking me up the great highway that goes all the way 182 00:15:07,760 --> 00:15:14,200 more or less alongside the Mississippi from New Orleans to Chicago, Route 61. 183 00:15:18,720 --> 00:15:25,320 More or less in the middle of it, one finds...this place - 184 00:15:25,320 --> 00:15:27,440 Clarksdale, Mississippi. 185 00:15:27,440 --> 00:15:30,120 It styles itself the home of the blues. 186 00:15:30,120 --> 00:15:35,640 So many of the great blues musicians were born here and around here. 187 00:15:35,640 --> 00:15:42,280 One of those magical and inexplicable places, rather like, I don't know, Salzburg. 188 00:15:42,280 --> 00:15:48,680 Why should Mozart and Schubert and Haydn all come from a small town in Austria? 189 00:15:48,680 --> 00:15:52,720 Why shouldn't perhaps the most influential music form of the 20th century 190 00:15:52,720 --> 00:15:57,160 come from this frankly rather desolate dirt-poor place, Clarksdale, Mississippi? 191 00:15:57,160 --> 00:15:59,800 It seems like the middle of nowhere. 192 00:16:01,320 --> 00:16:05,680 Maybe all it has left to live on is the former glory of its music. 193 00:16:15,440 --> 00:16:18,800 But there is someone who wants to glory in this past. 194 00:16:18,800 --> 00:16:22,920 Ground Zero is Oscar-winning actor Morgan Freeman's club. 195 00:16:30,520 --> 00:16:36,520 - I thought when I went to school that a delta... - Remember that you're talking to a 70-year-old, I mean.. 196 00:16:36,520 --> 00:16:39,640 - You're the wisest man in the Universe, we all know that. - Oh! 197 00:16:39,640 --> 00:16:42,360 You played God twice, you've got to be wiser. 198 00:16:48,960 --> 00:16:55,200 They called it the Delta, because although it is an alluvium plain... 199 00:16:55,200 --> 00:16:59,720 - Right. - ..the Mississippi River used to flood regularly. 200 00:16:59,720 --> 00:17:01,960 - This whole area? - This whole area. 201 00:17:01,960 --> 00:17:05,000 So there is all of this alluvium soil here. 202 00:17:05,000 --> 00:17:07,280 - It's extraordinarily rich. - Yes. 203 00:17:07,280 --> 00:17:10,520 So that's why they call it Delta. 204 00:17:16,200 --> 00:17:19,760 Cotton was king of the Delta for many, many, many, many, many years. 205 00:17:19,760 --> 00:17:23,680 Of course now, we have machines that could do the work of a thousand men in a day. 206 00:17:23,680 --> 00:17:28,080 - So you've a huge population out of work? - A huge population out of work, huge. 207 00:17:31,680 --> 00:17:36,320 I mean, the point for you is that we have to forget, not forget the past, that's nonsense... 208 00:17:36,320 --> 00:17:41,080 - We can't forget that... - No, what I mean is we no longer talk about... - We transcend it. - Good word. 209 00:17:41,080 --> 00:17:44,840 We don't talk in terms of black and white, of oppressed and oppressor. 210 00:17:44,840 --> 00:17:49,880 We have to start thinking about Americans, about State Citizens, everyone... 211 00:17:49,880 --> 00:17:54,000 - You sound like Barack Obama, you know? - Well, yes. 212 00:17:54,000 --> 00:17:58,920 - I guess his time may have come, you know. - Was that a subtle segue? 213 00:18:05,720 --> 00:18:08,840 - Something motivated you to... - Come back? 214 00:18:08,840 --> 00:18:13,080 - Yes. To come back. - Yeah. - Was it a sense of putting something back into a community? 215 00:18:13,080 --> 00:18:17,080 No, it wasn't at all, if I'm going to be honest about it. 216 00:18:17,080 --> 00:18:23,800 Er, it was a realisation of where my peace was in life. 217 00:18:23,800 --> 00:18:26,480 Every time I came, 218 00:18:26,480 --> 00:18:30,920 there was a sense that I got of peace. 219 00:18:30,920 --> 00:18:34,000 - Yeah. - Quietude. 220 00:18:34,000 --> 00:18:37,520 A little envious of Morgan's quietude, 221 00:18:37,520 --> 00:18:41,040 I head into the state of Arkansas and a taste of the river 222 00:18:41,040 --> 00:18:44,400 as I pursue my ambitious goal of visiting every state. 223 00:18:56,360 --> 00:18:58,880 Essentially, of course, all the water 224 00:18:58,880 --> 00:19:05,640 of central continental United States drains into this river, doesn't it? 225 00:19:05,640 --> 00:19:10,080 Everything in between Appalachia and the Rockies 226 00:19:10,080 --> 00:19:14,320 and all the way up into the Canadian prairies. 227 00:19:14,320 --> 00:19:21,040 John Ruskey understands the allure of the Mississippi, and runs courses in river craft for urban kids. 228 00:19:22,560 --> 00:19:25,120 It'll sure humble you. 229 00:19:25,120 --> 00:19:31,320 I was born in the Rocky Mountains and I've never been anywhere that I've felt the power of God. 230 00:19:31,320 --> 00:19:34,840 - More than here? - Than here. - Really? 231 00:19:34,840 --> 00:19:39,040 I've climbed fourteeners, I've been the bottom of the Grand Canyon and back up. 232 00:19:39,040 --> 00:19:40,840 Nowhere else. 233 00:19:40,840 --> 00:19:44,360 Hmm, it's interesting and it seems so gentle now. 234 00:19:44,360 --> 00:19:47,160 It's a real Old Man River kind of feel. 235 00:19:47,160 --> 00:19:50,080 It just keeps rolling along. 236 00:19:58,120 --> 00:20:04,600 'John is very much in the tradition of Mark Twin's great literary creation, Huckleberry Finn, 237 00:20:04,600 --> 00:20:07,120 'whose adventures travelling the steamboats 238 00:20:07,120 --> 00:20:11,960 'encapsulates a particularly American sense of restless freedom.' 239 00:20:26,440 --> 00:20:30,960 Huck Finn. What is it about Huck Finn that seems to capture 240 00:20:30,960 --> 00:20:34,760 - the American imagination, almost more than any other book? - Yeah. 241 00:20:34,760 --> 00:20:40,160 We have such a rootless and restless attitude in this country. 242 00:20:40,160 --> 00:20:43,240 - We love looking at the horizon, seeing what's beyond. - Yeah. 243 00:20:43,240 --> 00:20:47,560 There's always something at the end of the rainbow, keep travelling, keep going forward. 244 00:20:47,560 --> 00:20:53,040 Anyone who goes to the edge of the river is always looking downstream wondering where the river goes. 245 00:20:53,040 --> 00:20:57,360 Every time I'm away, I'm always thinking about the Mississippi River. 246 00:20:57,360 --> 00:20:58,960 - Really? - Mm-hm. 247 00:20:58,960 --> 00:21:04,520 - Although it's a place you move along, Mississippi is your home, is it? - Seems like, yeah, yeah. 248 00:21:04,520 --> 00:21:10,480 You can go anywhere on the last thousand miles of the river, the lower Mississippi, 249 00:21:10,480 --> 00:21:15,040 and you feel the same thing, it's these places, big open spaces. 250 00:21:15,040 --> 00:21:20,880 Here we are and... almost nobody passes us. 251 00:21:20,880 --> 00:21:26,400 We've been here, out on the river for some hours now, getting here and eating and preparing food. 252 00:21:26,400 --> 00:21:31,240 - Yeah. - And it's completely peaceful. In some ways, they are frightened of the river. 253 00:21:31,240 --> 00:21:36,080 People are terrified of the river, yeah. And the closer that you live to the river, 254 00:21:36,080 --> 00:21:40,600 the people that live just over the levee there are the ones who are most scared of it. 255 00:21:40,600 --> 00:21:43,200 - But with good reason. - With good reason. 256 00:21:52,920 --> 00:21:56,680 300 miles further upstream, the city of St Louis, Missouri. 257 00:21:56,680 --> 00:22:00,080 It's where the Mississippi River meets the Missouri River 258 00:22:00,080 --> 00:22:03,720 linking over 5,000 miles of river that unite the Rockies, 259 00:22:03,720 --> 00:22:06,360 the Great Lakes and the Appalachian Mountains. 260 00:22:08,760 --> 00:22:14,080 Although I've only driven a few hundred miles north, it's suddenly turned very cold. 261 00:22:14,080 --> 00:22:18,360 I'm driving to an area that was once the transport hub of the country. 262 00:22:18,360 --> 00:22:24,400 'The long abandoned stock yards were also the home for many, many years of my guide William.' 263 00:22:24,400 --> 00:22:30,320 One of the most unimaginable things about being homeless here is just simply the temperature. 264 00:22:30,320 --> 00:22:35,960 - Today, we're minus five or something and it gets a lot colder than that, doesn't it? - Well, yeah, you know. 265 00:22:35,960 --> 00:22:38,920 When I was staying in abandoned buildings, 266 00:22:38,920 --> 00:22:42,880 the inside temperatures were a lot colder than the outside temperature. 267 00:22:42,880 --> 00:22:46,640 It's about 20 degrees colder inside. 268 00:22:46,640 --> 00:22:50,920 - How did you keep warm? - Blankets and a whole lot of clothes. 269 00:22:50,920 --> 00:22:53,480 How many years were you homeless for, William? 270 00:22:53,480 --> 00:22:56,040 - 25. - 25 years! 271 00:22:56,040 --> 00:22:57,600 Practically half of my life. 272 00:23:07,400 --> 00:23:11,120 In this building, particularly, you had about, 273 00:23:11,120 --> 00:23:14,880 oh, I guess about 25 people living here. 274 00:23:14,880 --> 00:23:18,920 And you had different agencies that would come through here 275 00:23:18,920 --> 00:23:24,800 - and bring you food, bring you the oil for the kerosene heaters. - Right. 276 00:23:24,800 --> 00:23:27,240 You know, you didn't really want for nothing. 277 00:23:27,240 --> 00:23:29,880 - That's why you almost didn't want to leave. - Yeah. 278 00:23:29,880 --> 00:23:34,640 It was just like your own apartment, but you just didn't wanna leave. THEY LAUGH 279 00:23:39,760 --> 00:23:41,280 The River Front Hilton. 280 00:23:41,280 --> 00:23:44,600 The River Front Hilton. That's what we called it. 281 00:23:44,600 --> 00:23:47,720 There was so many people living here, it was just like a hotel. 282 00:23:55,640 --> 00:23:58,160 - A fire, how wonderful. - Yep. 283 00:23:58,160 --> 00:24:00,360 Hi, hello. 284 00:24:00,360 --> 00:24:04,280 - Hello. - Hey. How y'all doing today? - I'm Stephen. 285 00:24:04,280 --> 00:24:05,880 - Harry. - Harry. How do you do? 286 00:24:05,880 --> 00:24:08,360 - How long have you been together? - Three years. 287 00:24:08,360 --> 00:24:11,920 - Wow. And is this where you...? - Three years too long. 288 00:24:11,920 --> 00:24:13,240 LAUGHTER 289 00:24:13,240 --> 00:24:15,800 - You've got a house. - You might say it's a house. 290 00:24:15,800 --> 00:24:19,120 - We've got two bedrooms. - Yeah. - This is where you live at. 291 00:24:19,120 --> 00:24:22,680 This is where you are going to make your home at. 292 00:24:22,680 --> 00:24:25,320 - It must so hard. - No, it's not that bad. 293 00:24:25,320 --> 00:24:29,400 - No? - It's not too bad. - I was thinking I couldn't survive a day here. 294 00:24:29,400 --> 00:24:32,520 - Do you remember the day you hit that dude in his mouth? - Yep. 295 00:24:32,520 --> 00:24:35,000 For calling her a homeless crackhead whore. 296 00:24:35,000 --> 00:24:39,240 I bounced him off the cobblestones and into a dumpster and off my knee 297 00:24:39,240 --> 00:24:43,080 and I said that ain't gonna happen. You don't disrespect anybody. 298 00:24:43,080 --> 00:24:46,960 - That's like my little sister. - Yeah. - He's like my brother-in-law. 299 00:24:46,960 --> 00:24:49,200 We chose to live like this! 300 00:24:50,920 --> 00:24:54,280 So you don't share the American dream if the American dream means 301 00:24:54,280 --> 00:24:57,800 getting your own house and yard and your own mortgage 302 00:24:57,800 --> 00:25:01,480 - and you know, seven TVs and... - Been there and done that. 303 00:25:01,480 --> 00:25:07,360 Panhandlers, hobos and bums are very much part of American history and folklore. 304 00:25:07,360 --> 00:25:13,080 That sense of freedom that the sheer vastness of the country can evoke perhaps makes the American dream 305 00:25:13,080 --> 00:25:18,960 less about 2.4 children and a house in the burbs than the lure of the open road. 306 00:25:29,040 --> 00:25:32,680 We're in Iowa, the great mid-western state which 307 00:25:32,680 --> 00:25:37,480 is the birthplace of John Wayne and James Tiberius Kirk, 308 00:25:37,480 --> 00:25:41,800 Captain of the United States ship Enterprise. 309 00:25:41,800 --> 00:25:47,360 But I've come here to go to a remarkable city which has its own currency 310 00:25:47,360 --> 00:25:50,520 and uses as its constitution, apparently, 311 00:25:50,520 --> 00:25:55,360 the Constitution of the Universe in order to guarantee perfect order. 312 00:25:55,360 --> 00:25:57,000 Intriguing, isn't it? 313 00:26:00,680 --> 00:26:04,200 It's certainly pretty orderly so far. 314 00:26:04,200 --> 00:26:10,680 A lot of harmony about, I notice, and very little negative energy which is highly pleasing 315 00:26:10,680 --> 00:26:14,960 because I hate negative energy, it sets me in a roar. I can't bear it. 316 00:26:14,960 --> 00:26:17,520 I'm very positive at the moment. 317 00:26:19,440 --> 00:26:26,280 I've got this feeling... holistic...natural energy. 318 00:26:26,280 --> 00:26:29,040 It's the only word I can use. 319 00:26:31,720 --> 00:26:37,920 This place is turning me into a babbling merchant of drivel. 320 00:26:44,480 --> 00:26:50,000 Maharishi Vedic City is the world centre for transcendental meditation, 321 00:26:50,000 --> 00:26:54,920 an ancient form of yoga interpreted by the modern Maharishi, who taught The Beatles. 322 00:27:05,400 --> 00:27:10,160 By activating alpha brainwaves, inner harmony is promoted. 323 00:27:10,160 --> 00:27:13,440 The practitioners believe that TM, as it's often called, 324 00:27:13,440 --> 00:27:19,560 is the answer to both one's personal and all the world's problems. Golly. 325 00:27:19,560 --> 00:27:24,240 Hard to tell what's going on behind closed eyes. 326 00:27:24,240 --> 00:27:28,280 Perhaps illumination will be found with Dr Fred Travis, 327 00:27:28,280 --> 00:27:30,800 who's head of the Research Institute here 328 00:27:30,800 --> 00:27:35,920 at the so-called capital of the global country of world peace. 329 00:27:37,440 --> 00:27:41,920 My alpha waves are to be tested. As well as my credulity. 330 00:27:50,400 --> 00:27:54,760 There's my brain. Hey, look at them. Oh, my Lord. 331 00:27:54,760 --> 00:27:59,720 Oh, dear me. There's certainly something very unpleasant. I'll have to calm down. 332 00:27:59,720 --> 00:28:03,080 It just turns into a horrible, horrible mess, doesn't it? 333 00:28:03,080 --> 00:28:05,720 I do apologise. All right. 334 00:28:05,720 --> 00:28:09,040 So this is you doing the task. 335 00:28:09,040 --> 00:28:14,240 - So what we can see here is there's a little bit more alpha activity. - There certainly is. 336 00:28:14,240 --> 00:28:18,280 Big high peak. Alpha is more the relaxed wakefulness. 337 00:28:18,280 --> 00:28:21,120 This seems such a sane and an excellent project 338 00:28:21,120 --> 00:28:24,640 for people in search of enlightenment and happiness, 339 00:28:24,640 --> 00:28:29,160 no-ones going to quibble that that's an important and valid quest. 340 00:28:29,160 --> 00:28:35,360 And then, we bang into this idea of yogic flying and you think, "Oh, hello, what's going on here?" 341 00:28:35,360 --> 00:28:38,080 People hopping about in bedrooms. 342 00:28:38,080 --> 00:28:42,440 Looking as if they might be rising off the ground but not really. 343 00:28:42,440 --> 00:28:47,480 Claims which may attract some people, but will turn others like me completely off. 344 00:28:47,480 --> 00:28:50,400 The reason for yogic flying isn't to hop around. 345 00:28:50,400 --> 00:28:54,240 It's not the way to go to the grocery store, you know? 346 00:28:54,240 --> 00:28:59,760 - Yes. - If you go to a very fundamental level of the mind, you can ultimately move the body. 347 00:28:59,760 --> 00:29:03,640 So if you look at what's happening in people's brains during yogic flying, 348 00:29:03,640 --> 00:29:06,600 just before they take off, there is a huge change. 349 00:29:06,600 --> 00:29:09,720 Do you know what motivated the Maharishi to come to Iowa? 350 00:29:11,400 --> 00:29:13,440 Er, the college was for sale. 351 00:29:13,440 --> 00:29:19,680 I'm not sure what I think of this, but I do know that Americans seem to be more open than most 352 00:29:19,680 --> 00:29:24,240 to anything that might bring about self-improvement and there is something wonderful 353 00:29:24,240 --> 00:29:30,480 about the incongruity of yogic flying over the wintry Iowan cornfields. 354 00:29:30,480 --> 00:29:34,280 But I have no time and even less inclination to try it out. 355 00:29:38,280 --> 00:29:42,920 To the North East lies Chicago, but first, I must make a detour 356 00:29:42,920 --> 00:29:45,400 through Indiana and Ohio, to Michigan. 357 00:29:47,640 --> 00:29:49,840 What to do in Indiana? 358 00:29:49,840 --> 00:29:51,680 Well, I've always wanted to ride 359 00:29:51,680 --> 00:29:55,920 in one of these classic big red fire trucks, and in Elkhart, Indiana, 360 00:29:55,920 --> 00:30:00,120 I fulfil that dream, riding up front with fire chief Mike Compton. 361 00:30:00,120 --> 00:30:04,960 I'm going to get a taste of what the choking reality is. 362 00:30:04,960 --> 00:30:10,120 It's a hard job to get these days. We had 240 applicants for eight jobs. 363 00:30:10,120 --> 00:30:13,160 I know when I got hired I got a three-day training in the basics. 364 00:30:13,160 --> 00:30:17,760 I was told, "Follow that guy with the grey hair, keep your mouth shut and do as you're told." 365 00:30:22,880 --> 00:30:28,840 - I spoke to a fireman once and he said, "Oh, yeah, we all love a good blaze." - And we do. 366 00:30:28,840 --> 00:30:32,600 - Yeah. - It's kinda funny that if you take an engineer, 367 00:30:32,600 --> 00:30:36,600 he wants to prevent a building from collapsing. 368 00:30:36,600 --> 00:30:41,760 You take a fireman, he doesn't always want to prevent a fire, he wants to have a fire. 369 00:30:45,200 --> 00:30:51,160 And that's why you need to weed out the psychologically weird ones who are just a bit too fond of a fire. 370 00:31:01,640 --> 00:31:04,200 I can't see anything. 371 00:31:07,720 --> 00:31:12,200 To be a fireman in the States is to be an authentic American hero, 372 00:31:12,200 --> 00:31:15,680 untainted by corruption, politics and ambition. 373 00:31:15,680 --> 00:31:21,720 After 9/ll, the job became even more glorified and even more desirable. 374 00:31:27,320 --> 00:31:29,520 Oh, my, 375 00:31:29,520 --> 00:31:31,440 oh, my, that's awful. 376 00:31:31,440 --> 00:31:33,480 That's just hell. 377 00:31:33,480 --> 00:31:37,240 There's nothing to describe it. You can't see, you can't orientate yourself in any direction. 378 00:31:37,240 --> 00:31:42,520 I do not understand how anybody would voluntarily go into a building like that because 379 00:31:42,520 --> 00:31:47,360 now that I've experienced it, I never want to go anywhere near anything like it again. 380 00:31:49,600 --> 00:31:52,000 Oh, the stench. 381 00:32:00,840 --> 00:32:03,840 The nearly rolling farmland of Ohio. 382 00:32:03,840 --> 00:32:08,200 A lot of states have had songs written about them, Georgia, Texas, California. 383 00:32:08,200 --> 00:32:11,520 They're usually rather romantic and optimistic. 384 00:32:11,520 --> 00:32:13,880 There's a great song written about Ohio. 385 00:32:13,880 --> 00:32:16,720 It's very melancholy and it memorialises... 386 00:32:18,240 --> 00:32:23,400 a sort of turning point in American history, really, when the '60s dream went bad. 387 00:32:23,400 --> 00:32:25,920 Some students at a University in this state, 388 00:32:25,920 --> 00:32:30,520 the town of Kent, part of the State University known as Kent State, 389 00:32:30,520 --> 00:32:34,880 were demonstrating against the Vietnam War, the invasion of Cambodia, 390 00:32:34,880 --> 00:32:41,440 and in came the National Guard, a kind of soldiery of the American Army, 391 00:32:41,440 --> 00:32:44,280 and they shot 13 of them. 392 00:32:44,280 --> 00:32:46,840 Nine were very seriously injured, four killed. 393 00:32:46,840 --> 00:32:51,640 Young students demonstrating on a campus in a university, 394 00:32:51,640 --> 00:32:55,560 shot dead by soldiers of their own country, 395 00:32:55,560 --> 00:32:59,200 and it happened in this innocent-looking farm state. 396 00:33:02,720 --> 00:33:07,480 The great Neil Young wrote a wonderful song about it. 397 00:33:10,560 --> 00:33:15,680 # Gotta get down to it Soldiers are cutting us down 398 00:33:15,680 --> 00:33:20,240 # Should have been done long ago 399 00:33:20,240 --> 00:33:27,440 # What if you knew her And found her dead on the ground 400 00:33:27,440 --> 00:33:31,680 # How can you run when you know? # 401 00:33:53,920 --> 00:33:58,320 We've seen over half the States of America so far. 402 00:34:03,880 --> 00:34:08,440 We've seen mountains and hills and rivers and beautiful cities. 403 00:34:08,440 --> 00:34:12,000 We're here in Detroit, Michigan, 404 00:34:12,000 --> 00:34:16,720 a motor town, Motown, where evidence is all around us 405 00:34:16,720 --> 00:34:18,880 of the industry that changed the world. 406 00:34:22,800 --> 00:34:26,280 Water from the Great Lakes, iron ore from the plains, 407 00:34:26,280 --> 00:34:31,200 coal from the Appalachians and workers from the south and east made Detroit 408 00:34:31,200 --> 00:34:33,680 the industrial furnace of America. 409 00:34:42,480 --> 00:34:47,160 Henry Ford, who started his business here in Dearborn, on the outskirts of Detroit, 410 00:34:47,160 --> 00:34:52,440 could be said to have invented modern America and defined millions of people's lives. 411 00:34:52,440 --> 00:34:56,960 His famous dictum that history is more or less bunk is somewhat at odds with the village 412 00:34:56,960 --> 00:34:59,080 he created next to his factory, 413 00:34:59,080 --> 00:35:03,560 a village full of history pillaged from every corner of the planet. 414 00:35:03,560 --> 00:35:06,120 But people are ever-complicated and contradictory, 415 00:35:06,120 --> 00:35:09,080 which the best machines are not. 416 00:35:09,080 --> 00:35:12,720 The Model T he built here on the first ever mass-production line 417 00:35:12,720 --> 00:35:16,520 is still considered the most successful car ever made. 418 00:35:16,520 --> 00:35:21,520 Simple, effective, elegant, cheap enough to be bought by Ford's own workers - 419 00:35:21,520 --> 00:35:24,720 the Tin Lizzie quite simply transformed the world. 420 00:35:26,880 --> 00:35:31,000 But Ford was not alone in the car business here, and Detroit is home 421 00:35:31,000 --> 00:35:36,120 to the largest car company of all, and Ford's bitterest rival - 422 00:35:36,120 --> 00:35:41,600 General Motors, makers of the Chevrolet, Pontiac, Buick and Cadillac brands. 423 00:35:44,320 --> 00:35:49,120 In the stylish tech centre, built by that modernist master Aero Saarinen, 424 00:35:49,120 --> 00:35:53,920 I meet up with John Manoogian, designer for the latest incarnation of the Cadillac. 425 00:35:59,080 --> 00:36:05,000 When I first saw the 1963 Corvette Stingray, I rode my bicycle 426 00:36:05,000 --> 00:36:10,440 into town that day to the Chevrolet dealer and they had a silver Stingray 427 00:36:10,440 --> 00:36:12,760 sitting right in the showroom. 428 00:36:12,760 --> 00:36:15,320 I said, "That's it. I have to be where they designed that car." 429 00:36:15,320 --> 00:36:18,680 - You really wanted this job, didn't you? - I could taste it. 430 00:36:21,560 --> 00:36:25,720 My father worked for 50 years at the Ford Motor Company. 431 00:36:25,720 --> 00:36:28,240 When it came time for me to quit my job at Ford and come 432 00:36:28,240 --> 00:36:31,680 to General Motors, he was absolutely flabbergasted. 433 00:36:31,680 --> 00:36:34,960 He said, "Why would you ever want to do that?" 434 00:36:34,960 --> 00:36:38,880 So it's a bit like someone from a very strict Catholic family bringing home a Protestant girl. 435 00:36:38,880 --> 00:36:41,720 Actually in some ways, it was probably worse than that. 436 00:36:43,920 --> 00:36:46,880 Now, you've designed a Cadillac...? 437 00:36:46,880 --> 00:36:49,080 - Yes. - Did you ever dream that... - My life is complete. 438 00:36:54,520 --> 00:36:57,720 If you were to gaze into your crystal ball, 439 00:36:57,720 --> 00:37:02,200 what would you see motoring being like in another 20 years, say? 440 00:37:02,200 --> 00:37:08,120 I would expect to see smaller cars, probably different power plants. 441 00:37:08,120 --> 00:37:13,120 This country being the way it is, laid out as big as it is, 442 00:37:13,120 --> 00:37:18,280 there's going to be a large segment of the population that says, "I have to have a car." 443 00:37:21,000 --> 00:37:25,560 America needs cars - for the foreseeable future, there's no alternative. 444 00:37:25,560 --> 00:37:29,520 Hell, I'm using one because it's the only way to see the country, 445 00:37:29,520 --> 00:37:35,280 save those moments when I can get a bird's eye view. And what a view. 446 00:37:35,280 --> 00:37:39,600 Chicago, Illinois. The Windy City, second city to New York. 447 00:37:39,600 --> 00:37:41,800 A hard-working, wealthy metropolis, 448 00:37:41,800 --> 00:37:46,920 built on the shores of Lake Michigan and a magnificent hymn to modernism. 449 00:38:01,040 --> 00:38:04,800 Chicago is also home to its very own style of the blues. 450 00:38:11,240 --> 00:38:13,280 And Buddy Guy is their God. 451 00:38:13,280 --> 00:38:20,000 # I'm just tryin' to ease... My weary mind... # 452 00:38:20,000 --> 00:38:24,760 From Jimi Hendrix to the Stones, to Eric Clapton, they've all worshipped at the frets of his guitar. 453 00:38:26,280 --> 00:38:28,480 # If you see me get kind of drunk 454 00:38:33,520 --> 00:38:38,760 # Plee-ea-ase don't pay me no mind... # 455 00:38:43,680 --> 00:38:46,840 But the blues are a dying art form. 456 00:38:46,840 --> 00:38:49,240 Buddy Guy takes me down memory lane, 457 00:38:49,240 --> 00:38:53,320 to the once-thriving working-class south side of the city. 458 00:38:53,320 --> 00:39:00,040 This is the place, the most famous blues club on the south side of Chicago. 459 00:39:00,040 --> 00:39:03,400 At this vacant lot here, another one called 460 00:39:03,400 --> 00:39:07,200 The Juke Box Lounge, that's where I stole my first guitar from, right here. 461 00:39:07,200 --> 00:39:10,360 - Really? - Yeah. - Good God, and it's now just wasteland? - Just wasteland. 462 00:39:10,360 --> 00:39:11,880 With ice on it. 463 00:39:13,520 --> 00:39:16,120 So I used to live around the corner. 464 00:39:16,120 --> 00:39:22,280 I'd leave home to go to Pepper's Lounge but I never made it because every time I would pass a joint 465 00:39:22,280 --> 00:39:26,640 like that I could hear the music playing and I said, "Wow, this sounds so good, 466 00:39:26,640 --> 00:39:28,720 "I've got to go see who this is." 467 00:39:28,720 --> 00:39:30,760 When I walk up on this side of the street, the same thing. 468 00:39:30,760 --> 00:39:34,880 That side, this side. They had blues clubs, I mean everywhere. 469 00:39:38,680 --> 00:39:42,480 I don't normally come down this way no more cos I hate that flashback. 470 00:39:42,480 --> 00:39:44,120 Yeah, it upsets you? 471 00:39:44,120 --> 00:39:49,640 Oh, yeah, you know, sometimes you feel like crying because what happened? 472 00:39:49,640 --> 00:39:53,840 Because people were having so much fun, I mean 24/7. 473 00:39:56,200 --> 00:39:59,560 It saddens me because those days are never coming back. 474 00:40:02,960 --> 00:40:06,600 Some people laugh at the blues, say it's always about being miserable. 475 00:40:06,600 --> 00:40:08,360 What do you think they're about? 476 00:40:08,360 --> 00:40:11,560 When you hear BB King singing, "I've got a sweet little angel, 477 00:40:11,560 --> 00:40:15,000 "I love the way she spreads her wings", that is not miserable. 478 00:40:17,680 --> 00:40:21,120 Entertainment has always been a big part of this city 479 00:40:21,120 --> 00:40:23,640 and while the blues clubs may have passed away, 480 00:40:23,640 --> 00:40:28,800 one institution that has gone from strength to strength, is comedy theatre Second City. 481 00:40:30,320 --> 00:40:34,520 Comedy improvisation could be said to have come of age at this institution. 482 00:40:34,520 --> 00:40:38,520 For half a century some of the greatest and most famous comedians in the world 483 00:40:38,520 --> 00:40:41,040 have started their careers here. 484 00:40:41,040 --> 00:40:42,560 Er... 485 00:40:45,400 --> 00:40:47,440 Your girlfriend's in there right now. 486 00:40:47,440 --> 00:40:50,200 - Oh, great, I haven't seen her in a while. - Whoa, whoa. 487 00:40:50,200 --> 00:40:52,920 Erm, er... How can I tell this? 488 00:40:54,960 --> 00:40:57,200 She's, er... 489 00:40:57,200 --> 00:40:59,080 Er, lost her clothes. 490 00:40:59,080 --> 00:41:01,240 Woah. 491 00:41:01,240 --> 00:41:04,040 - Maybe I should wait out here for five minutes. - Whoa. 492 00:41:04,040 --> 00:41:05,560 All right two minutes. 493 00:41:10,280 --> 00:41:14,360 'Oh, dear. What I was most dreading. My turn.' 494 00:41:14,360 --> 00:41:17,160 Will you be offended if I said that you seem to be 495 00:41:17,160 --> 00:41:20,760 in every way the visible personification of absolute perfection? 496 00:41:21,520 --> 00:41:27,520 Oh, that makes my boy and girl parts go a little twangy. 497 00:41:27,520 --> 00:41:29,840 You are radiantly lovely. 498 00:41:29,840 --> 00:41:31,400 You do know that, don't you? 499 00:41:33,320 --> 00:41:39,520 What is the sexiest word that comes to you brain right now when you look into my eyes? 500 00:41:39,520 --> 00:41:41,640 Erm, strabismus. 501 00:41:43,720 --> 00:41:48,600 'The Wiener Circle is an institution amongst Chicago's acting fraternity. 502 00:41:48,600 --> 00:41:53,800 'Having recovered from the trauma of last night, I am to be initiated.' 503 00:41:53,800 --> 00:41:56,680 Yeah, I'll have a big wiener. 504 00:41:56,680 --> 00:41:59,880 - Yes. - Three big wieners. 505 00:41:59,880 --> 00:42:05,480 No, definitely no hot pepper, I'm completely homosexual when it comes to hot peppers. 506 00:42:05,480 --> 00:42:07,720 Authentic Chicago experience. 507 00:42:07,720 --> 00:42:11,760 Improvise your way out of that. 508 00:42:11,760 --> 00:42:13,840 Ah. 509 00:42:13,840 --> 00:42:16,280 Mmm. 510 00:42:17,440 --> 00:42:19,440 It is... 511 00:42:19,440 --> 00:42:21,480 surprisingly delicious. 512 00:42:22,640 --> 00:42:24,480 Now listen. Second City. 513 00:42:24,480 --> 00:42:27,680 The end of the rainbow for you if you had comedy ambitions? 514 00:42:27,680 --> 00:42:31,440 - The first time I saw the show I wanted to on the stage so bad. - Really? - Yeah. 515 00:42:31,440 --> 00:42:35,480 You get hired and you go inside and they show you there's a tape closet 516 00:42:35,480 --> 00:42:40,840 - with the tapes of all the shows that they've ever done and the scripts from all those shows. - It's amazing. 517 00:42:40,840 --> 00:42:44,320 And they open it up and you look at the cast list and you're looking at 518 00:42:44,320 --> 00:42:48,280 Bill Murray, Dan Ackroyd, Gilda Radner in one show, you know. 519 00:42:48,280 --> 00:42:51,000 Dan Castellaneta, used to work here, Homer Simpson. 520 00:42:51,000 --> 00:42:53,600 - Homer Simpson? - The legendary Homer Simpson. 521 00:42:53,600 --> 00:42:59,040 If from the vantage point of my elderly position of a 50-year-old, 522 00:42:59,040 --> 00:43:01,960 if I can offer any advice it is never too late. 523 00:43:01,960 --> 00:43:07,680 - The idea that the door closes and roped off, I'm already 30, nothing's happened. - Right. 524 00:43:07,680 --> 00:43:11,160 It's complete nonsense. Actually, almost the reverse is true. 525 00:43:11,160 --> 00:43:13,880 - Yeah, yeah. - A lot of stars, George Clooney, 526 00:43:13,880 --> 00:43:17,120 that guy Hugh, the one in House, whatever his name is. 527 00:43:17,120 --> 00:43:19,360 Yeah. He's terrible, right? 528 00:43:19,360 --> 00:43:22,400 He had to wait until his late forties before... 529 00:43:22,400 --> 00:43:24,640 Why do you think it grew up here in Chicago? 530 00:43:24,640 --> 00:43:26,760 Is there something about this place? 531 00:43:26,760 --> 00:43:29,240 The city just happened to be hungry for it. 532 00:43:29,240 --> 00:43:32,320 It's called the Windy City because in the 19th century 533 00:43:32,320 --> 00:43:36,600 they said that the politicians in Chicago were full of hot air. 534 00:43:36,600 --> 00:43:39,600 - Oh, it's windy in that sense? - Yeah. - The windy person is... 535 00:43:39,600 --> 00:43:43,360 - Like blowhards. - Windbags, yeah. Blowhards as you call them. Exactly. 536 00:43:43,360 --> 00:43:46,200 They also had the reputation of being the second city. 537 00:43:46,200 --> 00:43:48,560 They were second to New York, all the time. 538 00:43:48,560 --> 00:43:50,760 It's always had that chip on its shoulder 539 00:43:50,760 --> 00:43:54,400 but since it's such a working class town it doesn't mind having a chip. 540 00:43:54,400 --> 00:43:56,680 It's always working, it never rests. 541 00:44:01,640 --> 00:44:05,200 There's yet another sector of the entertainment industry in Chicago 542 00:44:05,200 --> 00:44:08,560 but in a different, how shall I put it, mould. 543 00:44:24,120 --> 00:44:26,600 Oh, my Lord! 544 00:44:28,160 --> 00:44:29,280 That's incredible. 545 00:44:29,280 --> 00:44:32,000 - It's real copper. - Real copper. It's so beautiful. 546 00:44:32,000 --> 00:44:33,280 OK? 547 00:44:33,280 --> 00:44:34,880 Oh, here's the big one. 548 00:44:34,880 --> 00:44:38,200 - The big one. - Gold. 549 00:44:38,200 --> 00:44:40,760 - Oh. - OK? - Yeah. 550 00:44:43,240 --> 00:44:44,720 Oh! 551 00:44:44,720 --> 00:44:46,760 Gold, Mr Bond. 552 00:44:47,560 --> 00:44:49,720 I love its softness, I love its beauty, 553 00:44:49,720 --> 00:44:52,640 I love its colour, but most of all I love its value. 554 00:44:56,280 --> 00:44:58,920 It's the real thing, it's an Oscar. 555 00:45:19,200 --> 00:45:23,480 Well, I never did get my Oscar but I got this instead. 556 00:45:23,480 --> 00:45:26,520 One of the greatest sights on the planet. 557 00:45:30,280 --> 00:45:35,080 The Sears Tower for a long time could proudly call itself the tallest building in the world, 558 00:45:35,080 --> 00:45:40,440 but the economic shifts of the last decades have moved that dubious accolade to the Far East 559 00:45:40,440 --> 00:45:43,400 but who's counting when you have this? 560 00:46:05,520 --> 00:46:08,400 Leaving Illinois on my way to Minnesota, 561 00:46:08,400 --> 00:46:11,640 I head into State number 30, Wisconsin. 562 00:46:11,640 --> 00:46:17,240 So, here we are in Wisconsin. 563 00:46:17,240 --> 00:46:19,360 I think I ought to tell you, 564 00:46:19,360 --> 00:46:22,280 which you may not be able to tell yourselves, 565 00:46:22,280 --> 00:46:24,480 is that it really is very cold. 566 00:46:24,480 --> 00:46:27,200 It's exceptionally cold. 567 00:46:27,200 --> 00:46:31,640 A few hours ago it was -25 degrees Centigrade, 568 00:46:31,640 --> 00:46:36,200 which is jolly cold in anybody's currency and I have proof of it 569 00:46:36,200 --> 00:46:38,960 because I have a bottle of water which I had last night, 570 00:46:38,960 --> 00:46:44,880 left in the cab and as you may be able to see, that is one solid, 571 00:46:47,560 --> 00:46:50,480 completely frozen bottle of water. 572 00:46:52,880 --> 00:46:54,400 It's very pretty though. 573 00:46:56,440 --> 00:46:58,720 It's very Scandinavian around here. 574 00:47:00,280 --> 00:47:02,520 Svenson Motors and things. 575 00:47:02,520 --> 00:47:04,800 Uff da Mart, 576 00:47:04,800 --> 00:47:07,680 Sorenson's Auto Sales. 577 00:47:13,800 --> 00:47:18,160 For most Americans Wisconsin means cheese, 578 00:47:18,160 --> 00:47:22,160 most of it disgustingly bland and fit only for melting over burgers. 579 00:47:22,160 --> 00:47:23,840 But Brenda Jensen is a rarity. 580 00:47:23,840 --> 00:47:26,320 She makes organic ewe's milk cheese. 581 00:47:26,320 --> 00:47:28,640 She has 150 sheep herself, 582 00:47:28,640 --> 00:47:32,840 but she still needs more milk as her successful business expands. 583 00:47:35,000 --> 00:47:41,000 Brenda's desire for unadulterated milk leads her to equally unadulterated Amish neighbours. 584 00:47:43,040 --> 00:47:47,480 The Amish are a Christian Sect who don't believe in mechanical devices, 585 00:47:47,480 --> 00:47:50,440 so don't use cars, tractors, phones or shavers. 586 00:47:50,440 --> 00:47:53,200 They also don't like being filmed but take it from me, 587 00:47:53,200 --> 00:47:57,120 they're very friendly, sweet and not in the least solemn or disapproving. 588 00:48:02,160 --> 00:48:05,040 Come on girls, come on, come on. 589 00:48:05,040 --> 00:48:07,000 Yeah. 590 00:48:07,000 --> 00:48:08,200 Here they go. 591 00:48:09,160 --> 00:48:11,920 - They're very keen to be milked, aren't they? - Oh, yes. 592 00:48:14,880 --> 00:48:18,120 - We've got all these udders presenting to us. - We do. Yes, yes. 593 00:48:18,120 --> 00:48:20,720 OK darling, I'm going to have a go. 594 00:48:20,720 --> 00:48:22,960 Excuse me. Oh, Lord. 595 00:48:22,960 --> 00:48:24,120 Hang on. 596 00:48:25,280 --> 00:48:26,480 You've got... 597 00:48:26,480 --> 00:48:27,960 Come on, look. Ow. 598 00:48:27,960 --> 00:48:30,080 Oops, that's one. 599 00:48:30,080 --> 00:48:32,840 Where's the other one? Oh. Get up. 600 00:48:32,840 --> 00:48:35,680 - Bloody hell. There it goes. - Push it right up. 601 00:48:35,680 --> 00:48:38,360 There it goes. There's the milk. 602 00:48:38,360 --> 00:48:41,640 Oh my, and that flows up into one of these pipes. 603 00:48:41,640 --> 00:48:45,960 They certainly like to present their lady parts, don't they? 604 00:48:45,960 --> 00:48:49,760 - They do. - There's no mistaking. Obviously attractive to a ram. 605 00:48:51,920 --> 00:48:54,000 So many things going on there. 606 00:48:54,000 --> 00:48:59,840 Folds and puckers and oozings. 607 00:49:00,760 --> 00:49:04,960 - Oh, what's going on? - They've recently had babies, you know. 608 00:49:04,960 --> 00:49:08,920 So they're a little stretched at the moment, darlings, aren't you? 609 00:49:10,240 --> 00:49:11,680 A little slack. 610 00:49:14,320 --> 00:49:15,360 Take your finger. 611 00:49:15,360 --> 00:49:17,600 - Oh, my goodness. - And... - Ooh. 612 00:49:17,600 --> 00:49:19,600 Yeah, just take a break like that. 613 00:49:19,600 --> 00:49:22,920 - Like a milk jelly. - You can tell this is ready. 614 00:49:22,920 --> 00:49:29,920 Wisconsin. Is it thought of as very much a capital of good dairy farming? 615 00:49:29,920 --> 00:49:32,720 Oh, yes, very much so. Wisconsin is cheese. 616 00:49:32,720 --> 00:49:36,600 I have to say, without wishing to be offensive about America, 617 00:49:36,600 --> 00:49:39,640 but one of the most notable things about America 618 00:49:39,640 --> 00:49:42,160 is that cheese, generally, is appalling. 619 00:49:42,160 --> 00:49:46,600 - Mmm. - It's shocking. You go to even quite a good restaurant and... 620 00:49:46,600 --> 00:49:48,880 - Oh, sure. - They don't serve it, 621 00:49:48,880 --> 00:49:52,920 and the cheese they melt and put on things is just... 622 00:49:52,920 --> 00:49:56,960 - It's orange and some of it comes out of a can. - Yeah. 623 00:49:56,960 --> 00:49:59,760 - And spray-on cheese, it exists, doesn't it? - Yeah. 624 00:49:59,760 --> 00:50:02,440 So is this like a new movement in America? 625 00:50:02,440 --> 00:50:04,360 It is, it really is. 626 00:50:04,360 --> 00:50:06,400 Artisanal farmstead, natural. 627 00:50:06,400 --> 00:50:08,400 Artisanal, that's a good word. 628 00:50:08,400 --> 00:50:11,200 It is, and very handcrafted. 629 00:50:13,760 --> 00:50:16,840 By mid-Western standards, my next destination, 630 00:50:16,840 --> 00:50:20,560 the twin city conurbation of Minneapolis St Paul, 631 00:50:20,560 --> 00:50:24,680 is bang next door, being only a couple of hours drive away. 632 00:50:24,680 --> 00:50:29,440 The Mississippi. There she is again look, almost frozen solid. 633 00:50:29,440 --> 00:50:34,320 We've hardly left her for 2,500 miles since we met at the mouth 634 00:50:34,320 --> 00:50:38,200 in Louisiana and now ten states later, 635 00:50:38,200 --> 00:50:42,080 we've traced her almost to her source further upstate in Minnesota. 636 00:50:42,080 --> 00:50:45,840 It's even colder up here than it was in Wisconsin, 637 00:50:45,840 --> 00:50:48,200 so there's barely a soul on the streets. 638 00:50:48,200 --> 00:50:51,360 In fact, almost no-one ever braves the air in wintertime 639 00:50:51,360 --> 00:50:57,040 and to get from building to building they have covered catwalks between the buildings called skyways. 640 00:50:57,040 --> 00:51:00,280 It's those practical Scandiwegians again. 641 00:51:00,280 --> 00:51:02,160 PEOPLE SPEAK ASIAN LANGUAGE 642 00:51:02,920 --> 00:51:05,280 But hark, that's not Swedish I hear, 643 00:51:07,160 --> 00:51:09,560 it's Hmong, 644 00:51:09,560 --> 00:51:14,400 and how odd to be among the Hmong so far from their ancestral homelands, 645 00:51:14,400 --> 00:51:17,640 which were in the opium-growing hills of Laos and Vietnam. 646 00:51:17,640 --> 00:51:21,000 These are the latest and probably most incongruous 647 00:51:21,000 --> 00:51:23,400 in a long line of immigrants to Minnesota. 648 00:51:24,360 --> 00:51:27,560 The Hmong fought alongside America during the Vietnam War 649 00:51:27,560 --> 00:51:32,280 and after that war was lost, most of the Hmong refugees who fled to the US 650 00:51:32,280 --> 00:51:34,880 were re-settled here in Minneapolis. 651 00:51:34,880 --> 00:51:38,800 Today they number some 40,000 and are the largest Hmong community 652 00:51:38,800 --> 00:51:43,920 outside South East Asia with their own State Senator, Mrs Mee Moua. 653 00:51:43,920 --> 00:51:48,920 We came from a village life where people are out and about 654 00:51:48,920 --> 00:51:53,800 and teeming and people walking the streets and you're always bumping into people. 655 00:51:53,800 --> 00:51:56,760 To come into this environment, in the middle of January, 656 00:51:56,760 --> 00:52:00,200 where you don't see human beings for months and months and months, 657 00:52:00,200 --> 00:52:02,520 and the only people you see are your family. 658 00:52:02,520 --> 00:52:05,840 You look outside and don't see anybody. It's like a ghost town. 659 00:52:05,840 --> 00:52:08,160 Soon after the Hmong were moved here, 660 00:52:08,160 --> 00:52:12,240 there was an unusually high number of deaths among their menfolk. 661 00:52:12,240 --> 00:52:14,280 Senator Mee explains. 662 00:52:14,280 --> 00:52:19,480 Many, many Hmong men would go to sleep and just die in their sleep. 663 00:52:19,480 --> 00:52:23,600 They just switched themselves off, almost? They stopped wanting to live? 664 00:52:23,600 --> 00:52:27,040 - It's a kind of suicide. - Yeah, the light just went out 665 00:52:27,040 --> 00:52:33,520 and the irony is that I have talked to men who have come back. 666 00:52:36,480 --> 00:52:39,040 They would dream that they had wings 667 00:52:39,040 --> 00:52:43,000 and that they were flying, you know, across the oceans. 668 00:52:45,520 --> 00:52:49,680 And they would see the fields and the mountains of Laos. 669 00:52:50,640 --> 00:52:53,920 You know, to go back to the land of their ancestors. 670 00:52:56,760 --> 00:52:59,920 So these people who woke up, 671 00:52:59,920 --> 00:53:05,520 woke up because their wives heard them kind of struggling, 672 00:53:05,520 --> 00:53:08,120 otherwise he was already in Laos. 673 00:53:11,520 --> 00:53:14,120 We started to have Hmong grocery stores, 674 00:53:14,120 --> 00:53:19,000 we had Hmong loan offices and bankers at the local banks. 675 00:53:19,000 --> 00:53:24,880 We had enough people who were versatile in English to be at the law offices and at hospitals. 676 00:53:24,880 --> 00:53:29,200 That has really helped to minimise their sense of helplessness. 677 00:53:29,200 --> 00:53:31,720 So we could have a sense of community. 678 00:53:31,720 --> 00:53:35,520 Leaving the now happier Hmong to their adopted homeland, 679 00:53:35,520 --> 00:53:37,840 I join up with Tim Lesmeister 680 00:53:37,840 --> 00:53:40,480 for a spot of more traditional Minnesotan activity. 681 00:53:48,600 --> 00:53:51,440 Wow. That was fun. 682 00:53:53,000 --> 00:53:55,560 That was a good ride. 683 00:53:55,560 --> 00:53:58,080 Whoa. 684 00:53:58,080 --> 00:54:00,560 Quite icy on the ice! 685 00:54:00,560 --> 00:54:02,440 Right here where we're standing 686 00:54:02,440 --> 00:54:06,320 there's literally thousands of fish below us, ready to be caught. 687 00:54:16,360 --> 00:54:17,920 Wahey! 688 00:54:17,920 --> 00:54:20,880 How thick is that sheet of ice, do you think? 689 00:54:20,880 --> 00:54:24,120 - It's 24 or 26 inches right in there. - Over two foot. 690 00:54:24,120 --> 00:54:27,600 I usually bring nothing but bad luck to these kinds of enterprise, 691 00:54:27,600 --> 00:54:29,720 but let's see if we can catch something. 692 00:54:31,240 --> 00:54:34,760 You're putting a television camera down there? 693 00:54:34,760 --> 00:54:36,760 I'm putting a camera down here, yes. 694 00:54:36,760 --> 00:54:39,840 And we'll set it up so we can actually watch our lure, 695 00:54:39,840 --> 00:54:42,400 and we'll watch the fish actually swim up. 696 00:54:45,240 --> 00:54:47,000 There's two of them now. 697 00:54:47,000 --> 00:54:48,680 Oh, it's a nice fish too. 698 00:54:48,680 --> 00:54:51,400 OK, come on. OK, here he comes, here he comes. 699 00:54:51,400 --> 00:54:54,440 I think he's going to take it. He's really on top of this one. 700 00:54:56,440 --> 00:54:58,600 - Oh, he swam away. - Oh, no. 701 00:54:58,600 --> 00:55:01,720 I'm not ringing the dinner bell for them yet. 702 00:55:01,720 --> 00:55:06,840 So what made Tim and his ancestors settle in this icy land? 703 00:55:06,840 --> 00:55:12,080 The Scandinavians actually came over here looking for a new life, 704 00:55:12,080 --> 00:55:18,400 but when they got to Minnesota, they said, "This is just like home, let's stay here." 705 00:55:18,400 --> 00:55:21,440 And the people in Minnesota tend to be a little quirky. 706 00:55:21,440 --> 00:55:26,040 I suppose you have to be if you're going to be crazy enough to live this far north. 707 00:55:27,560 --> 00:55:29,440 Come on, fishy. 708 00:55:29,440 --> 00:55:31,480 These fish are really negative. 709 00:55:31,480 --> 00:55:36,160 They're toying with us, they know that we want one so bad. If we didn't want a fish... 710 00:55:36,160 --> 00:55:39,880 - Yeah, let's not want one. - If we didn't want a fish, we would catch a fish. 711 00:55:39,880 --> 00:55:43,400 Actually it would be rather a bore if they bit. 712 00:55:43,400 --> 00:55:45,640 I'd have to turn the reel and bring them up 713 00:55:45,640 --> 00:55:49,400 so I'd much rather you just go away please, bother someone else. 714 00:55:49,400 --> 00:55:52,240 - That's right. - See how this reverse psychology works. 715 00:55:52,240 --> 00:55:55,720 Ooh, big bass, big bass. 716 00:55:55,720 --> 00:55:57,600 - Bass. - Big bass, big bass. 717 00:55:57,600 --> 00:55:59,680 Ooh, that would be good. 718 00:55:59,680 --> 00:56:01,320 Big bass. Come on, come on. 719 00:56:03,760 --> 00:56:05,920 Oh, get in there. 720 00:56:05,920 --> 00:56:08,520 - Hurray. - It's a sunfish. Hey, that's a nice one. 721 00:56:08,520 --> 00:56:10,440 - What is he? - That is a sunfish. 722 00:56:10,440 --> 00:56:13,000 - He's beautiful. - Yeah, he's a beautiful fish. 723 00:56:13,000 --> 00:56:15,000 Cold. He's ready frozen, virtually. 724 00:56:15,000 --> 00:56:18,240 - Probably the biggest fish ever caught here, would you say? - No. 725 00:56:18,240 --> 00:56:19,440 - Come on, yes it is. - No. 726 00:56:19,440 --> 00:56:22,120 Oops, oh, dear. 727 00:56:22,120 --> 00:56:26,480 - It's the first fish I've caught since I was about ten years old. - This is? 728 00:56:28,080 --> 00:56:31,360 I don't want you to think I'm scared of this fish. 729 00:56:32,880 --> 00:56:35,200 Oh, this is a nice one. 730 00:56:35,200 --> 00:56:38,160 - This is a serious fish. - That's bending. 731 00:56:38,160 --> 00:56:40,160 This is really bending the rod. 732 00:56:40,160 --> 00:56:42,520 Ooh, yeah, it's a biggie. 733 00:56:44,080 --> 00:56:46,320 He's up to the hole, he's up, he's up. 734 00:56:46,320 --> 00:56:48,920 Oh, I say! 735 00:56:48,920 --> 00:56:50,880 Bravo! 736 00:56:50,880 --> 00:56:53,040 - That's a pike, isn't it? - That is a pike. 737 00:56:53,040 --> 00:56:56,040 Yeah. He's absolutely beautiful. 738 00:56:56,040 --> 00:56:58,200 That is a beautiful fish. 739 00:56:58,200 --> 00:57:02,360 I would go so far as to say that is bigger than the fish I just caught. 740 00:57:02,360 --> 00:57:05,440 I think it is. I genuinely think that's bigger than my fish. 741 00:57:05,440 --> 00:57:08,800 I'm guessing it was pretty close, pretty close. 742 00:57:08,800 --> 00:57:12,440 Actually mine goes from there to there, yours goes... 743 00:57:12,440 --> 00:57:14,520 Yeah, yours is just bigger, well done. 744 00:57:15,440 --> 00:57:19,080 - That's a nice big fish, there it goes. - Off she goes. Wonderful. 745 00:57:19,080 --> 00:57:21,840 I like to see them put back. 746 00:57:21,840 --> 00:57:23,960 That is really good. 747 00:57:23,960 --> 00:57:25,680 These are the spoils. 748 00:57:25,680 --> 00:57:29,000 - Pitting our wits against the mighty sunfish. - This is brilliant. 749 00:57:31,400 --> 00:57:34,880 It's been quite a journey from the Gulf of Mexico and New Orleans, 750 00:57:34,880 --> 00:57:37,600 where the River Mississippi empties itself 751 00:57:37,600 --> 00:57:40,160 in warm, steamy, torrid Louisiana, 752 00:57:40,160 --> 00:57:42,760 right here to fresh, chilly Minnesota, 753 00:57:42,760 --> 00:57:46,080 which is the state where the Mississippi begins. 754 00:57:46,080 --> 00:57:49,280 We've followed music and food. 755 00:57:49,280 --> 00:57:52,440 CRACKING NOISES 756 00:57:52,440 --> 00:57:55,560 That's...slightly worrying. 757 00:57:55,560 --> 00:57:58,120 - That's just ice cracking. - Oh, that's all right, 758 00:57:58,120 --> 00:58:02,280 I thought it was a leaf rustling. If it's only ice cracking... Get out of here!! 759 00:58:03,320 --> 00:58:05,480 And so we did. 760 00:58:05,480 --> 00:58:07,200 Next week, I shall be travelling 761 00:58:07,200 --> 00:58:09,960 from the glaciers of Montana on the Canadian border, 762 00:58:09,960 --> 00:58:13,000 right down through the High Prairies and Rocky Mountains, 763 00:58:13,000 --> 00:58:16,440 to the arid deserts of Texas on the border with Mexico. 764 00:58:37,520 --> 00:58:39,560 Subtitles by Red Bee Media 765 00:58:39,560 --> 00:58:41,600 E-mail subtitling@bbc.co.uk