1 00:00:48,560 --> 00:00:53,080 This is not the South, this is not the Midwest. This is the True West. 2 00:00:53,080 --> 00:00:55,440 The West of cowboys and of westerns. 3 00:00:55,440 --> 00:00:59,360 A landscape that America shares with nowhere else on Earth. 4 00:01:11,120 --> 00:01:15,360 'This is the Rio Grande rift, a tear in the Earth's crust, 5 00:01:15,360 --> 00:01:19,040 'through which the Rio Grande flows south towards Mexico.' 6 00:01:19,040 --> 00:01:22,720 The river has an iconic place in the American imagination. 7 00:01:22,720 --> 00:01:25,240 It marks much of the southern border, 8 00:01:25,240 --> 00:01:29,280 but also the beginning of a new frontier, west of the Rockies. 9 00:01:29,280 --> 00:01:31,320 A frontier that rolled ever westward 10 00:01:31,320 --> 00:01:34,560 as the pioneers, gold diggers, oilmen and homesteaders 11 00:01:34,560 --> 00:01:39,400 transformed, in a matter of decades, the lawless Wild West of legend 12 00:01:39,400 --> 00:01:43,040 into the most affluent and vibrant place on the planet. 13 00:01:49,240 --> 00:01:51,680 You have timed this very well, I must say! 14 00:01:59,440 --> 00:02:03,120 From here in the foothills of the Rockies in northern New Mexico, 15 00:02:03,120 --> 00:02:07,160 I will drop into the spectacular deserts and canyons of Arizona, 16 00:02:07,160 --> 00:02:11,600 Utah and Nevada, before crossing the Sierra Nevada mountains, 17 00:02:11,600 --> 00:02:15,360 finally to reach the Pacific Ocean at San Francisco, California. 18 00:02:15,360 --> 00:02:17,360 On the outskirts of Taos, 19 00:02:17,360 --> 00:02:20,680 a favourite haunt of artists and hippies, 20 00:02:20,680 --> 00:02:23,000 a very American phenomenon has sprung up 21 00:02:23,000 --> 00:02:25,720 on the semi-arid desert of the high mesas. 22 00:02:25,720 --> 00:02:31,640 The Earthships have landed and put down their rather untidy roots. 23 00:02:31,640 --> 00:02:34,720 Born of the counter culture movement of the '60s and '70s, 24 00:02:34,720 --> 00:02:37,760 these eco-friendly dwellings are still in the forefront 25 00:02:37,760 --> 00:02:40,120 of sustainable housing, not least 26 00:02:40,120 --> 00:02:43,920 due to the inspiration and dedication of founder Mike Reynolds. 27 00:02:43,920 --> 00:02:49,000 Yeah, we launched about 38 years ago into this realm 28 00:02:49,000 --> 00:02:55,080 and just kept going deeper, because we kind of got our eyes opened 29 00:02:55,080 --> 00:02:59,240 by early media talking about clear cutting timber 30 00:02:59,240 --> 00:03:01,160 and early oil shortage, 31 00:03:01,160 --> 00:03:04,600 talking about energy, and we just kind of moved in this direction. 32 00:03:04,600 --> 00:03:08,440 And then, of course, more timber issues, more energy issues, 33 00:03:08,440 --> 00:03:12,520 more water issues, more pollution issues, more garbage issues, 34 00:03:12,520 --> 00:03:15,240 more housing issues, so we just kept going. 35 00:03:15,240 --> 00:03:19,840 We saw we were on a path that could lead to our own safety in the future. 36 00:03:21,360 --> 00:03:24,920 Goodness me, it's the scale of it that's so surprising. 37 00:03:24,920 --> 00:03:30,200 Yeah, this one's a little larger scale than a typical home, 38 00:03:30,200 --> 00:03:33,960 because we're trying to demonstrate a large portion 39 00:03:33,960 --> 00:03:37,880 of the square footage for food production. 40 00:03:37,880 --> 00:03:41,800 - Including herbs, I see. - Yeah, herbs and fruits and grapes. 41 00:03:41,800 --> 00:03:44,320 There is actually grapes starting over here. 42 00:03:44,320 --> 00:03:47,600 Bananas, vegetables... 43 00:03:47,600 --> 00:03:51,560 Pretty much the idea is a family of four could live here 44 00:03:51,560 --> 00:03:55,200 with no utility bill whatsoever, be totally comfortable, 45 00:03:55,200 --> 00:03:57,480 have plenty of water and plenty of food. 46 00:03:57,480 --> 00:03:59,600 You've got lots of bottles everywhere, 47 00:03:59,600 --> 00:04:01,960 into the cement, or into the adobe as it's... 48 00:04:01,960 --> 00:04:03,680 Both, it's cement and adobe. 49 00:04:03,680 --> 00:04:07,240 The wall outside is bottles laid in mud, 50 00:04:07,240 --> 00:04:11,400 which you could totally do in Africa without any cement whatsoever. 51 00:04:11,400 --> 00:04:14,480 - As are the cans. - It dries and becomes a bottle and mud wall. 52 00:04:14,480 --> 00:04:17,920 Which is both beautiful and, of course, somehow, 53 00:04:17,920 --> 00:04:19,600 a rather good symbolic reminder 54 00:04:19,600 --> 00:04:22,120 of all the detritus that we tend to leave behind. 55 00:04:22,120 --> 00:04:25,760 And you say you use photovoltaic, ie solar, panels? 56 00:04:25,760 --> 00:04:28,120 Solar panels, they are pretty common. 57 00:04:28,120 --> 00:04:33,640 But the reason they are not used that much is because most housing 58 00:04:33,640 --> 00:04:35,840 requires a tremendous amount of power 59 00:04:35,840 --> 00:04:39,760 for heating, cooling, and pumps and all kinds of things like that. 60 00:04:39,760 --> 00:04:43,440 Whereas these homes do most of everything for themselves, 61 00:04:43,440 --> 00:04:45,440 so what little bit of power we need 62 00:04:45,440 --> 00:04:48,640 is easy to achieve with solar, photovoltaic cells. 63 00:04:48,640 --> 00:04:52,880 And here you've got, you know, all the normal kitchen things, 64 00:04:52,880 --> 00:04:56,200 lights and coffee machine and cooker and so on. 65 00:04:56,200 --> 00:04:58,080 Yeah, flat screen TV and computers. 66 00:04:58,080 --> 00:05:02,000 In other words, you don't have to do without anything to live 67 00:05:02,000 --> 00:05:06,560 - completely independent of all fossil fuel utilities. - That is amazing. 68 00:05:06,560 --> 00:05:09,040 Is it done through there, the electricity? 69 00:05:09,040 --> 00:05:12,520 Well, this back hallway is kind of a buffer zone 70 00:05:12,520 --> 00:05:16,240 between the living spaces and the exterior walls. 71 00:05:16,240 --> 00:05:19,760 And it does show how the walls are built in this home, 72 00:05:19,760 --> 00:05:21,600 they are earth ram tyres. 73 00:05:21,600 --> 00:05:23,920 You could drive a pick-up truck into that, 74 00:05:23,920 --> 00:05:27,720 and, you know, go through the windshield yourself. 75 00:05:27,720 --> 00:05:30,880 And there, actually, is the water organising system 76 00:05:30,880 --> 00:05:32,400 with the pumps and filters. 77 00:05:32,400 --> 00:05:35,960 So that you have conventional household hot and cold running water. 78 00:05:35,960 --> 00:05:40,440 - Do you recycle the water? - Yes, we do, we have a limited amount 79 00:05:40,440 --> 00:05:44,840 of water in this arid climate, so we take the water from the cisterns, 80 00:05:44,840 --> 00:05:47,800 run it through our filters, take a shower in it, 81 00:05:47,800 --> 00:05:50,080 then it runs into these planters. 82 00:05:50,080 --> 00:05:54,040 What, the plants actually filter the grey water, as they call it? 83 00:05:54,040 --> 00:05:56,760 They filter the grey water and actually clean it up, 84 00:05:56,760 --> 00:06:00,080 so we flush the toilet with water you took a shower in yesterday. 85 00:06:00,080 --> 00:06:03,800 But it's clean. It's not drinkable, but it's clean enough that you can't 86 00:06:03,800 --> 00:06:07,120 tell it, it's certainly clean enough for a toilet flushing. 87 00:06:07,120 --> 00:06:14,200 And then that water goes out into a conventional septic system, 88 00:06:14,200 --> 00:06:20,800 which, rather than going into a drain field or a municipal sewage area, 89 00:06:20,800 --> 00:06:25,160 goes into more outdoor botanical cells that are used for landscaping. 90 00:06:25,160 --> 00:06:29,560 So no sewage ever leaves the home. It's used by plants. 91 00:06:29,560 --> 00:06:32,840 And that's very unlike the way we do things 92 00:06:32,840 --> 00:06:35,400 in the 20th and 21st century, 93 00:06:35,400 --> 00:06:38,160 where we like to send our poo away as far as possible 94 00:06:38,160 --> 00:06:39,840 and not really to think about it, 95 00:06:39,840 --> 00:06:43,200 and to think about the enormous quantities of it that we produce. 96 00:06:45,040 --> 00:06:48,760 'Mike's vision of a sustainable, self-reliant lifestyle 97 00:06:48,760 --> 00:06:52,600 'is gaining wider recognition, as both the financial 98 00:06:52,600 --> 00:06:56,360 'and the environmental cost of oil seems inexorably to rise. 99 00:06:56,360 --> 00:06:58,920 'Not so long ago, this was the only way to live. 100 00:06:58,920 --> 00:07:02,560 'For hundreds of years before Europeans invaded these lands, 101 00:07:02,560 --> 00:07:06,360 'the local Indian population had adapted to this harsh environment 102 00:07:06,360 --> 00:07:10,000 'by banding together in adobe or mud-wall villages - 103 00:07:10,000 --> 00:07:11,680 'pueblos, in Spanish.' 104 00:07:11,680 --> 00:07:14,440 And hence their name, the Pueblo Indians. 105 00:07:14,440 --> 00:07:17,000 New Mexico has one of the highest percentages 106 00:07:17,000 --> 00:07:18,920 of native Americans of any state. 107 00:07:21,080 --> 00:07:26,360 I'm in Santa Fe, which was America's very first capital city 108 00:07:26,360 --> 00:07:28,640 when it was founded in 1610 by the Spanish 109 00:07:28,640 --> 00:07:30,160 and given the splendid name, 110 00:07:30,160 --> 00:07:33,800 La Villa de la Santa Fe de San Francisco de Asis. 111 00:07:33,800 --> 00:07:36,840 Today, it is the state capital of New Mexico, 112 00:07:36,840 --> 00:07:40,920 but it's justifiably proud of its Pueblo Indian and Spanish heritage. 113 00:07:45,160 --> 00:07:48,720 It is the architectural jewel in the crown of the south west, 114 00:07:48,720 --> 00:07:51,960 and even if the adobe style is a spot over-indulged, 115 00:07:51,960 --> 00:07:55,840 it makes a change to be able to walk around an American city. 116 00:08:07,920 --> 00:08:11,000 Well, this is just another old Santa Fe courtyard, stuffed 117 00:08:11,000 --> 00:08:14,680 with colourful knick-knacks for the tourist trade, you might think. 118 00:08:14,680 --> 00:08:19,440 But actually, this was once the most secret address in the world. 119 00:08:19,440 --> 00:08:23,640 It was simply a post office box, 1663, and it was the only conduit 120 00:08:23,640 --> 00:08:26,720 from a rather special place in the mountains. 121 00:08:34,360 --> 00:08:37,400 So this is the centre of nuclear America, 122 00:08:37,400 --> 00:08:40,320 the nucleus, if you like, the cradle. 123 00:08:40,320 --> 00:08:43,720 It's where it all began, it's where mankind first learnt 124 00:08:43,720 --> 00:08:46,480 to harness the power of the atom. 125 00:08:46,480 --> 00:08:50,080 Both a terrible and a magnificent event, I suppose. 126 00:08:50,080 --> 00:08:55,040 And that building there, that half timber building, 127 00:08:55,040 --> 00:09:00,160 was, in the 1930s and '40s, a school that actually boasts such alumni 128 00:09:00,160 --> 00:09:03,680 as the literary figures Gore Vidal and William Burroughs. 129 00:09:03,680 --> 00:09:06,920 And it was that school that was bought by the US government 130 00:09:06,920 --> 00:09:12,720 and formed the kernel of the Los Alamos nuclear research laboratory. 131 00:09:12,720 --> 00:09:15,080 This is the Quark Bar in Los Alamos. 132 00:09:15,080 --> 00:09:17,720 Those of you who are good at physics might remember 133 00:09:17,720 --> 00:09:20,520 that a quark is an elementary particle 134 00:09:20,520 --> 00:09:22,920 named after a James Joyce word. 135 00:09:22,920 --> 00:09:25,400 I don't know what this place makes me think of. 136 00:09:25,400 --> 00:09:29,520 There is something very moving and very extraordinary 137 00:09:29,520 --> 00:09:31,600 about the photographs of the pioneers. 138 00:09:31,600 --> 00:09:34,040 There is a kind of optimism in big science, 139 00:09:34,040 --> 00:09:36,560 and there is an optimism in being American. 140 00:09:36,560 --> 00:09:41,040 And when the two come together, you create an astonishing energy, 141 00:09:41,040 --> 00:09:43,200 rather like the energy that they created 142 00:09:43,200 --> 00:09:47,680 when they split that atom and made that first bomb. 143 00:09:47,680 --> 00:09:49,080 I suppose some would think 144 00:09:49,080 --> 00:09:52,400 this is a grizzly place, a place of death. 145 00:09:52,400 --> 00:09:54,520 But to me, I see nothing but optimism, 146 00:09:54,520 --> 00:09:57,120 that's probably because I believe in science. 147 00:09:57,120 --> 00:09:58,680 Many people these days don't. 148 00:09:58,680 --> 00:10:02,840 I think America, for all its faults, still does. 149 00:10:04,640 --> 00:10:08,280 Los Alamos still looks after America's nuclear arsenal, 150 00:10:08,280 --> 00:10:12,320 But with its 2.5 billion budget and its massive supercomputers, 151 00:10:12,320 --> 00:10:16,000 it's at the cutting edge in practically every area of research. 152 00:10:16,000 --> 00:10:18,720 'Terry Wallace is Director of Science at the lab.' 153 00:10:18,720 --> 00:10:21,480 Oh, that's the most beautiful thing I have ever seen! 154 00:10:21,480 --> 00:10:23,280 I can't begin to guess what it does. 155 00:10:23,280 --> 00:10:27,480 So what we really have here is a very fancy electron microscope. 156 00:10:27,480 --> 00:10:29,240 It's a microscope? 157 00:10:29,240 --> 00:10:31,320 So we can prepare the materials 158 00:10:31,320 --> 00:10:34,400 and look at them on a sub-microscopic level. 159 00:10:34,400 --> 00:10:37,120 And at the same time, be able to probe them with ions, 160 00:10:37,120 --> 00:10:41,440 so we can get the chemistry, the dynamics of the materials. 161 00:10:41,440 --> 00:10:43,760 And it's everything from organic matter 162 00:10:43,760 --> 00:10:46,040 to wafers of this, that and the other, is it? 163 00:10:46,040 --> 00:10:48,080 The work that's going on here right now 164 00:10:48,080 --> 00:10:49,920 really is concentrated on films, 165 00:10:49,920 --> 00:10:52,880 in which we can push individual atoms around on the film. 166 00:10:52,880 --> 00:10:55,880 And the idea would be able to build atom-based circuits 167 00:10:55,880 --> 00:10:57,800 so you can have a quantum computer. 168 00:10:57,800 --> 00:10:59,960 Los Alamos National Laboratory. 169 00:10:59,960 --> 00:11:03,080 They are taking individual hydrogen atoms and moving them. 170 00:11:03,080 --> 00:11:05,080 So those are hydrogen atoms, 171 00:11:05,080 --> 00:11:06,520 that are spelling... 172 00:11:06,520 --> 00:11:10,080 You are actually corralling the hydrogen atom, pushing it into... 173 00:11:10,080 --> 00:11:14,240 So we grab those with probe tweezers, and we can spell out LANL. 174 00:11:14,240 --> 00:11:18,120 So you have all this power of quantum mathematics behind you, 175 00:11:18,120 --> 00:11:20,840 and this extraordinary supercomputer, 176 00:11:20,840 --> 00:11:23,600 are there other areas that you are developing? 177 00:11:23,600 --> 00:11:26,680 A substantial effort into what we call "living machines". 178 00:11:26,680 --> 00:11:29,640 So can we make materials that self-reproduce? 179 00:11:29,640 --> 00:11:32,200 Now, the idea there that we are working on 180 00:11:32,200 --> 00:11:36,200 right now in the research is not focused on making living systems, 181 00:11:36,200 --> 00:11:38,280 but systems which are self-aware. 182 00:11:38,280 --> 00:11:40,880 And the example I would use is that if we could, 183 00:11:40,880 --> 00:11:43,840 instead of having just normal concrete on a bridge, 184 00:11:43,840 --> 00:11:47,200 we could have this self-aware material on the outside, 185 00:11:47,200 --> 00:11:51,160 it could heal its own cracks with stress, when time comes along. 186 00:11:51,160 --> 00:11:54,400 And so, I think this is a very realisable dream. 187 00:11:54,400 --> 00:11:56,440 Our laboratory is here for one reason, 188 00:11:56,440 --> 00:11:58,440 that's national security science. 189 00:11:58,440 --> 00:12:01,080 But to be able to get to do national security science, 190 00:12:01,080 --> 00:12:03,240 you have to be at the frontiers of science. 191 00:12:03,240 --> 00:12:05,120 And since so much work is done here, 192 00:12:05,120 --> 00:12:08,320 it's attacked about 3.5 million times a day 193 00:12:08,320 --> 00:12:12,400 from all the different ways to try to either probe our information... 194 00:12:12,400 --> 00:12:13,840 Hackers trying to get in. 195 00:12:13,840 --> 00:12:17,200 But they are mainly state-sponsored hackers, and so... 196 00:12:17,200 --> 00:12:21,000 Really? So, countries which we won't name, 197 00:12:21,000 --> 00:12:24,520 but let's say they rhyme with "shina" and "bussia", 198 00:12:24,520 --> 00:12:28,160 actually have people constantly, as it were, 199 00:12:28,160 --> 00:12:31,280 - hammering at your digital gates, trying to get in. - Exactly. 200 00:12:31,280 --> 00:12:33,680 Oh, my Goodness! I dare say Britain does too. 201 00:12:33,680 --> 00:12:37,600 When the theory and then the practice of the power of the atom 202 00:12:37,600 --> 00:12:41,760 was proved it was the most momentous moment in science's history, really. 203 00:12:41,760 --> 00:12:45,200 Is there anything in science now which will yield 204 00:12:45,200 --> 00:12:48,080 equivalent astonishment, do you think, in the future? 205 00:12:48,080 --> 00:12:51,200 The real answer, I mean, we don't understand dark energy. 206 00:12:51,200 --> 00:12:54,120 So, our solar system is filled with dark matter 207 00:12:54,120 --> 00:12:57,440 and we see the interaction with dark energy, and... 208 00:12:57,440 --> 00:13:01,120 Because energy and matter are consubstantial, because of Einstein. 209 00:13:01,120 --> 00:13:04,680 Exactly, and so, potentially, the concept of what we can get 210 00:13:04,680 --> 00:13:09,120 from dark energy or the conversion with dark matter could dwarf anything 211 00:13:09,120 --> 00:13:12,320 that we see within our particular system of light matter, 212 00:13:12,320 --> 00:13:13,360 or what we see. 213 00:13:15,880 --> 00:13:20,160 Leaving the boffins at Los Alamos to ponder the conundrum of dark matter 214 00:13:20,160 --> 00:13:23,040 and dark energy, I head for the light. 215 00:13:23,040 --> 00:13:26,840 Possibly the best light to be found in the entire country. 216 00:13:39,360 --> 00:13:41,000 This is Monument Valley, 217 00:13:41,000 --> 00:13:43,480 part of the Navajo Indian reservation 218 00:13:43,480 --> 00:13:45,760 that straddles Arizona and Utah. 219 00:13:45,760 --> 00:13:48,600 'I'm meeting up with Jameson, a Navajo whose family 220 00:13:48,600 --> 00:13:52,000 'have lived here from long before the coming of the Europeans.' 221 00:13:52,000 --> 00:13:57,800 In 1938, John Ford shot his first western here, Stagecoach, 222 00:13:57,800 --> 00:14:00,520 which was also John Wayne's first western, I think. 223 00:14:00,520 --> 00:14:04,000 He did nine more movies here. Have you ever seen any of those movies? 224 00:14:04,000 --> 00:14:05,760 Yeah, I did, yeah. 225 00:14:05,760 --> 00:14:08,520 It's all because of Mr Goulding. 226 00:14:08,520 --> 00:14:12,360 - Yeah, now, Mr Goulding, he was a trader? - Yeah. 227 00:14:12,360 --> 00:14:15,880 - In the 1920s and 1930s? - Yeah. 228 00:14:15,880 --> 00:14:18,800 How did he get John Ford here? 229 00:14:18,800 --> 00:14:24,160 Well, they said that he went around and took pictures of the valley, 230 00:14:24,160 --> 00:14:26,600 and then he made a trip down to Hollywood. 231 00:14:26,600 --> 00:14:29,520 And he wasn't really accepted into the office, 232 00:14:29,520 --> 00:14:33,320 in Hollywood, but he slipped the pictures underneath the door. 233 00:14:33,320 --> 00:14:37,000 So when they saw those pictures, 234 00:14:37,000 --> 00:14:40,600 they were, you know... 235 00:14:40,600 --> 00:14:42,360 They were amazed by what they saw. 236 00:14:42,360 --> 00:14:44,760 - And that's what brought John Ford here? - Yeah. 237 00:14:44,760 --> 00:14:47,760 'In the hogan, the traditional home, 238 00:14:47,760 --> 00:14:52,240 'Jameson's sister, Sally, has something to show me.' 239 00:14:52,240 --> 00:14:55,480 What we do is, like, if we want to make a basket, 240 00:14:55,480 --> 00:15:00,560 if we don't have material, we have to go out to Colorado 241 00:15:00,560 --> 00:15:04,320 or Utah but it's still, like, 300 or 400 miles. 242 00:15:04,320 --> 00:15:06,960 - Really, this is where these trees grow? - Yeah. 243 00:15:06,960 --> 00:15:10,960 So you have to look for something long, like this one, that grows. 244 00:15:10,960 --> 00:15:12,880 - And it's got to be bendy? - Yeah. 245 00:15:12,880 --> 00:15:14,800 - So are they quite young? - Yeah. 246 00:15:14,800 --> 00:15:16,840 They are shoots. 247 00:15:16,840 --> 00:15:18,640 And what's the name of the plant? 248 00:15:18,640 --> 00:15:21,760 - This is called sumak. - Sumak, right. 249 00:15:21,760 --> 00:15:27,400 And what we do is split them into three parts, like this. 250 00:15:27,400 --> 00:15:30,600 It's a lot of work just to do this. 251 00:15:30,600 --> 00:15:34,960 But you have to know how to do that. If you don't, you just break them. 252 00:15:36,880 --> 00:15:38,800 Oh, that's beautiful. 253 00:15:41,800 --> 00:15:44,920 Oh, it's like the pith, yeah? 254 00:15:44,920 --> 00:15:50,600 - So one shoot becomes six different parts. - Three. 255 00:15:50,600 --> 00:15:54,640 Three. Each one has the pith taken out and you discard it. 256 00:15:56,520 --> 00:16:00,240 So it's flat on one side, and you pull that. 257 00:16:00,240 --> 00:16:05,640 And then this is the one that we have to put it up and let it dry. 258 00:16:05,640 --> 00:16:11,560 And it takes a couple of days to dry, what we do is we take off that. 259 00:16:11,560 --> 00:16:13,920 Oh, my goodness. 260 00:16:16,480 --> 00:16:19,600 So this is the one that we use to weave with, 261 00:16:19,600 --> 00:16:21,840 this is the one that we colour. 262 00:16:21,840 --> 00:16:24,320 So this is what it is, right there. 263 00:16:24,320 --> 00:16:25,880 Ah, yes, white and black. 264 00:16:25,880 --> 00:16:28,320 So those four colours are the ones you use. 265 00:16:28,320 --> 00:16:33,920 Yeah, and then we start off with sumak, like this one here. 266 00:16:33,920 --> 00:16:37,880 Ah, so you leave one which you don't peel, you don't divide. 267 00:16:37,880 --> 00:16:40,960 And that becomes... And you coil it up. 268 00:16:40,960 --> 00:16:45,440 And then, when you're weaving, this one has to be moist. 269 00:16:45,440 --> 00:16:49,640 And then what I do is... 270 00:16:49,640 --> 00:16:51,520 I have to make a hole in here. 271 00:16:51,520 --> 00:16:53,360 - Will you let me have a try? - Sure. 272 00:16:53,360 --> 00:16:55,400 I might well screw up. 273 00:16:55,400 --> 00:16:59,200 You don't ever stab that finger by mistake? Do you? 274 00:16:59,200 --> 00:17:01,720 No, my hand is always right here. 275 00:17:01,720 --> 00:17:03,520 Ah, you keep it out of the way. 276 00:17:03,520 --> 00:17:07,480 OK, put that on my lap, yeah. Oh, Lord! 277 00:17:07,480 --> 00:17:12,960 OK, so the hole goes here, yeah? 278 00:17:12,960 --> 00:17:16,760 - Don't poke your knees! - No. Is that going to go through? 279 00:17:16,760 --> 00:17:18,520 Oops. 280 00:17:18,520 --> 00:17:20,480 Oh, it's gone through. 281 00:17:20,480 --> 00:17:23,040 And that's going to go through. 282 00:17:23,040 --> 00:17:25,360 Oh, I hope the hole's big enough. 283 00:17:28,560 --> 00:17:31,640 Back out the other side and pull. 284 00:17:31,640 --> 00:17:34,200 Yeah! 285 00:17:34,200 --> 00:17:36,320 I've made my first loop. 286 00:17:36,320 --> 00:17:39,040 - Is this an important source of income for you? - Yeah. 287 00:17:39,040 --> 00:17:40,840 It is, it's your major source? 288 00:17:40,840 --> 00:17:44,160 And the tourists, how much do you charge? 289 00:17:44,160 --> 00:17:46,640 I mean, because they seem very good value to me. 290 00:17:46,640 --> 00:17:49,920 Yeah, if it's a twenty-inch, I sometimes sell it 291 00:17:49,920 --> 00:17:54,000 for, like, 3,000, 6,000, 7,000. 292 00:17:54,000 --> 00:17:55,640 Well, I think it's fantastic. 293 00:17:55,640 --> 00:17:58,000 Have you got any... oh, you've got ones here. 294 00:17:58,000 --> 00:18:03,080 Yeah, this one is called a traditional ceremonial basket, 295 00:18:03,080 --> 00:18:05,000 and they call it the wedding basket. 296 00:18:05,000 --> 00:18:11,520 The middle is the earth, and this is the mountain, 297 00:18:11,520 --> 00:18:15,400 and this is the rainbow, and the clouds. 298 00:18:15,400 --> 00:18:20,800 And this one right here, we never close it, we always have an opening. 299 00:18:20,800 --> 00:18:22,800 And it's the mind, the spirit line. 300 00:18:22,800 --> 00:18:25,920 Which goes between and through all the different elements. 301 00:18:25,920 --> 00:18:28,280 This is the same, but with different colours. 302 00:18:28,280 --> 00:18:32,840 It's very skilful and lovely. 303 00:18:32,840 --> 00:18:35,160 I shall have to buy one now. 304 00:18:35,160 --> 00:18:38,920 I may not buy one of your 3,000 ones, though! 305 00:18:57,280 --> 00:19:00,640 'You can see why Ford was drawn to this place 306 00:19:00,640 --> 00:19:05,320 'and why Navajo like Jameson and his family have no desire to leave.' 307 00:19:13,640 --> 00:19:16,840 If ever there was a place where humans can feel connected 308 00:19:16,840 --> 00:19:20,720 to some sense of the spirit world, this is it. 309 00:19:35,640 --> 00:19:40,800 'Exposure to the spiritual always leaves me more than usually peckish. 310 00:19:40,800 --> 00:19:42,880 'Jameson's wife answers my prayers.' 311 00:19:42,880 --> 00:19:46,000 - This is Navajo fried bread? - Navajo fried bread, I'm making. 312 00:19:46,000 --> 00:19:49,920 - She makes the best fried bread ever. - Yeah? 313 00:19:49,920 --> 00:19:53,680 Family loyalty, but I believe it. 314 00:19:56,120 --> 00:19:58,920 I think it's great that you are all speak Navajo. 315 00:19:58,920 --> 00:20:06,680 Because I was up in South Dakota on the reservation with the Lakota, 316 00:20:06,680 --> 00:20:10,760 and they were saying that 10% of the children speak Lakota now, 317 00:20:10,760 --> 00:20:14,520 and that's terrible, isn't it? You lose the language. 318 00:20:14,520 --> 00:20:20,520 Yeah. Few years back, they were saying that they had a complaint 319 00:20:20,520 --> 00:20:24,440 about kids kind of forgetting their language. 320 00:20:24,440 --> 00:20:26,840 Really? So they are making an effort now, 321 00:20:26,840 --> 00:20:29,360 in college and school, everybody learns. 322 00:20:29,360 --> 00:20:34,240 Look at those steaks! I'm a bit tempted, can I taste some of that? 323 00:20:34,240 --> 00:20:35,920 I'll tear a bit off. 324 00:20:35,920 --> 00:20:38,880 Oh, my, that's as good as it gets. 325 00:20:42,040 --> 00:20:44,960 It's light, it's fluffy. 326 00:20:44,960 --> 00:20:47,720 Soft. Delicious. 327 00:20:47,720 --> 00:20:49,480 Absolutely... 328 00:20:51,280 --> 00:20:53,000 Good, isn't it? 329 00:20:53,000 --> 00:20:57,080 - Here, you can help yourself, all of you. - Oh, that's good. 330 00:20:57,080 --> 00:21:00,040 Oh...wow! 331 00:21:00,040 --> 00:21:02,480 Right, here's the plates. 332 00:21:04,440 --> 00:21:10,440 - Oh, what a place to eat! Isn't it? - Quiet... 333 00:21:10,440 --> 00:21:13,320 But what's amazing to me is that you manage to live here, 334 00:21:13,320 --> 00:21:15,760 right in the middle of Monument Valley 335 00:21:15,760 --> 00:21:19,640 and have a private family life, while today, there are probably, 336 00:21:19,640 --> 00:21:23,000 what, a thousand tourists up there, in cars, going round, 337 00:21:23,000 --> 00:21:26,040 and you wouldn't know they were there, would you? 338 00:21:26,040 --> 00:21:30,040 Some, they really want to step inside and talk to the family, 339 00:21:30,040 --> 00:21:33,840 sometimes they'll do that, they just walk over here 340 00:21:33,840 --> 00:21:37,720 and say a friendly hello, and we just go along with it. 341 00:21:37,720 --> 00:21:42,160 - You don't mind that? - Yeah. - Cos you wouldn't go down an American street 342 00:21:42,160 --> 00:21:45,840 in the city and just open somebody's door and go, "Hello!" 343 00:21:50,040 --> 00:21:55,920 Bordering the Navajo reservation, Lake Powell stretches for 250 miles 344 00:21:55,920 --> 00:21:58,880 in a filigree pattern of extraordinary beauty. 345 00:21:58,880 --> 00:22:02,360 Looking at these ancient rocks, 346 00:22:02,360 --> 00:22:05,440 it's easy to think this would be a scene 347 00:22:05,440 --> 00:22:07,680 you could imagine thousands of years ago. 348 00:22:07,680 --> 00:22:13,880 But actually, it's only been visible for the last 30-odd years. 349 00:22:13,880 --> 00:22:16,160 This is the completion of the great project 350 00:22:16,160 --> 00:22:18,640 of damming the Colorado River. 351 00:22:18,640 --> 00:22:21,600 And this is an artificial lake, a man-made lake. 352 00:22:21,600 --> 00:22:26,000 It's the Colorado River risen up into an old canyon. 353 00:22:26,000 --> 00:22:30,360 And maybe that's what adds its spooky kind of atmosphere, 354 00:22:30,360 --> 00:22:33,440 the fact that there is no life that's grown up with the lake. 355 00:22:33,440 --> 00:22:36,520 It's a new lake, so nature hasn't yet caught up with it. 356 00:22:36,520 --> 00:22:39,840 Maybe in a hundred years, the kingfishers and the grasses 357 00:22:39,840 --> 00:22:45,840 and the reeds and things will make this a proper aquatic environment, 358 00:22:45,840 --> 00:22:48,760 but at the moment, it's more like an album cover 359 00:22:48,760 --> 00:22:50,600 or a computer-generated image. 360 00:23:19,080 --> 00:23:23,000 This is going to be conceivably eggy. 361 00:23:28,600 --> 00:23:34,000 The one word in the American phrase as you know probably is "over easy". 362 00:23:34,000 --> 00:23:37,800 "Over easy" is when you flip it over and just barely cook it, 363 00:23:37,800 --> 00:23:40,960 just to get the, you know, the runny bits off the top cooked. 364 00:23:40,960 --> 00:23:43,120 The problem with that is the word "easy". 365 00:23:43,120 --> 00:23:46,880 How do I get that over? Ohh, come on! 366 00:23:46,880 --> 00:23:49,400 Now it's broken, well, it's not exactly broken, 367 00:23:49,400 --> 00:23:52,480 but half the white's sheared off it, and if I flip that over, 368 00:23:52,480 --> 00:23:55,280 I can guarantee it's going to burst in a... Ahh! 369 00:23:58,600 --> 00:24:02,440 Hmm, it's not bad. 370 00:24:04,160 --> 00:24:06,520 The extraordinary thing about Lake Powell 371 00:24:06,520 --> 00:24:08,120 is that it's not better known. 372 00:24:08,120 --> 00:24:11,400 It's as if someone filled the Grand Canyon with water. 373 00:24:11,400 --> 00:24:14,520 Admittedly, we are not at high season now, 374 00:24:14,520 --> 00:24:17,400 but we are about the only boat on this huge stretch of water. 375 00:24:21,520 --> 00:24:23,560 HE WHISTLES AND CLAPS TO MAKE ECHOES 376 00:24:26,720 --> 00:24:29,880 - That's...what do you call that? - That's Navajo Mountain. 377 00:24:29,880 --> 00:24:33,000 Navajo mountain. So that's very particular to your people. 378 00:24:33,000 --> 00:24:35,800 That's another one of our sacred mountains. 379 00:24:35,800 --> 00:24:38,960 Rob Bighorse, my Navajo captain, 380 00:24:38,960 --> 00:24:42,120 wants to show me something very special to his people. 381 00:24:42,120 --> 00:24:44,640 The largest natural bridge in the world. 382 00:24:44,640 --> 00:24:47,320 The Greek goddess of the rainbow was called Iris. 383 00:24:47,320 --> 00:24:52,200 Which is why we call the eye the iris, because it's like a rainbow. 384 00:24:52,200 --> 00:24:55,520 All the spectrum is there with all the colours, if you look at it. 385 00:25:04,840 --> 00:25:07,560 So, would you like to tell me about the story of that? 386 00:25:07,560 --> 00:25:11,800 Legend has it that there was a little boy that got lost here, 387 00:25:11,800 --> 00:25:16,560 and to make it across, back across, the deities made a rainbow. 388 00:25:16,560 --> 00:25:20,360 And he made it back across, and after that, they just turned it into stone. 389 00:25:20,360 --> 00:25:23,040 And since then, it's been sacred to the Navajo? 390 00:25:23,040 --> 00:25:24,800 It's been sacred to the Navajo. 391 00:25:24,800 --> 00:25:27,680 And how is that sacred nature shown? 392 00:25:27,680 --> 00:25:32,480 - By never... - By never going over it of underneath it. - Right. 393 00:25:32,480 --> 00:25:34,160 I read somewhere that actually, 394 00:25:34,160 --> 00:25:37,080 - you could fit the Statue of Liberty under there. - You can. 395 00:25:37,080 --> 00:25:40,760 Western science has its own explanations, what is that? 396 00:25:40,760 --> 00:25:44,400 - That it's caused by wind or water? - Yes, by water. - Water. 397 00:25:44,400 --> 00:25:47,600 So at one point, the river, they say, was high enough 398 00:25:47,600 --> 00:25:50,360 to have carved this out through the rock? 399 00:25:50,360 --> 00:25:53,600 Yes. Just carved right through it, and there you have it. 400 00:25:53,600 --> 00:25:55,520 Absolutely staggering. 401 00:26:06,000 --> 00:26:08,160 'I've jacuzzied my way around the world, 402 00:26:08,160 --> 00:26:10,640 'but this just about beats it all, I have to say. 403 00:26:10,640 --> 00:26:17,120 You know, there are 1,900 miles of shoreline 404 00:26:17,120 --> 00:26:20,360 on this man-made lake, it's quite extraordinary. 405 00:26:22,200 --> 00:26:26,840 Very American, isn't it, to do it in this kind of brash style? 406 00:26:26,840 --> 00:26:30,080 And I have to say there's a part of me that is entirely suited 407 00:26:30,080 --> 00:26:33,240 to this Mr Toad-like way of getting around a lake! 408 00:26:33,240 --> 00:26:38,520 Others would pull on paddles and oars, but not I. 409 00:26:38,520 --> 00:26:41,080 'Leaving the other-worldly landscape 410 00:26:41,080 --> 00:26:43,840 'and my gloriously gargantuan house-boat, 411 00:26:43,840 --> 00:26:46,320 'I realise just how much Americans are used 412 00:26:46,320 --> 00:26:48,280 to super-sizes in everything. 413 00:26:48,280 --> 00:26:52,000 The distances out West are just vast, so it's with relish 414 00:26:52,000 --> 00:26:56,440 that I'm going to hitch a ride the 400 miles south to Tucson, Arizona, 415 00:26:56,440 --> 00:26:59,440 in another super-sized form of American transport, 416 00:26:59,440 --> 00:27:02,520 the Boeing B17 Flying Fortress. 417 00:27:19,640 --> 00:27:21,160 This is extraordinary. 418 00:27:24,280 --> 00:27:27,240 I've been on a British Lancaster bomber, 419 00:27:27,240 --> 00:27:30,200 but only as far as taxi-ing is concerned. 420 00:27:30,200 --> 00:27:34,560 This is a first for me to fly in a 1940s bomber. 421 00:27:46,320 --> 00:27:48,800 Oh, yes! 422 00:27:51,760 --> 00:27:55,920 'The cloudless skies of the West make it the perfect place for flying 423 00:27:55,920 --> 00:27:59,200 'and the United States Air Force has bases dotted all about. 424 00:27:59,200 --> 00:28:03,320 'I'm heading for Davis-Monthan in Tucson.' 425 00:28:05,320 --> 00:28:08,440 It's too loud for conversation, 426 00:28:08,440 --> 00:28:12,200 so everything has to be done by signals. 427 00:28:12,200 --> 00:28:13,840 They have headsets, 428 00:28:13,840 --> 00:28:18,440 but they have to keep to very simple commands. 429 00:28:18,440 --> 00:28:21,760 You know, the bomber crews had a really tough life, 430 00:28:21,760 --> 00:28:24,160 there was nothing glamorous or romantic 431 00:28:24,160 --> 00:28:26,400 about being a member of a bomber crew. 432 00:28:26,400 --> 00:28:29,640 There were 5, 6 or 7 of them, depending on the nature 433 00:28:29,640 --> 00:28:32,960 of the flight, and they all had incredibly difficult jobs to do. 434 00:28:32,960 --> 00:28:34,920 They were very mathematical jobs. 435 00:28:34,920 --> 00:28:38,400 They were constantly having to adjust for magnetic deviations, 436 00:28:38,400 --> 00:28:41,400 and the compass, they were having to fly by dead reckoning 437 00:28:41,400 --> 00:28:44,160 with pencil and paper to find out where they were. 438 00:28:44,160 --> 00:28:46,680 They had to work out their height and their glide 439 00:28:46,680 --> 00:28:49,240 and climb attacks, all sorts of technical stuff. 440 00:28:49,240 --> 00:28:51,720 'There was nothing of the dashing warrior 441 00:28:51,720 --> 00:28:54,840 'of the air about them, as there was for the fighter pilots.' 442 00:28:54,840 --> 00:28:57,560 'They never really got the thanks at the end of the war 443 00:28:57,560 --> 00:29:01,160 'for the job they did. I suppose we were all too embarrassed about it.' 444 00:29:01,160 --> 00:29:02,560 Raining fire on civilians 445 00:29:02,560 --> 00:29:04,920 was not something that we should be proud of. 446 00:29:11,760 --> 00:29:13,080 As you might imagine, 447 00:29:13,080 --> 00:29:16,680 there are quite a few air force bases throughout the West. 448 00:29:16,680 --> 00:29:18,720 The guaranteed hours of sunlight 449 00:29:18,720 --> 00:29:23,240 make it an ideal place to send young pilots for training. 450 00:29:23,240 --> 00:29:26,720 But there are other functions, too. 451 00:29:26,720 --> 00:29:30,200 This air force base is very special indeed. 452 00:29:30,200 --> 00:29:36,520 It's where American aeroplanes go when they are retired. 453 00:29:36,520 --> 00:29:42,320 Over 3,000 of them, worth an estimated 30 billion, 454 00:29:42,320 --> 00:29:46,200 injected with synthetic rubber and wrapped in protective cling film. 455 00:29:48,760 --> 00:29:52,720 But don't be fooled - at a single sound of a bugle, 456 00:29:52,720 --> 00:29:55,280 they could rise again to serve their country. 457 00:29:55,280 --> 00:29:58,320 They are not dead, they are just mothballed, 458 00:29:58,320 --> 00:30:00,360 sealed up for the time being. 459 00:30:00,360 --> 00:30:03,720 Line after line of them. 460 00:30:03,720 --> 00:30:05,640 Fighters, bombers, 461 00:30:05,640 --> 00:30:10,000 attack aircraft, surveillance aircraft, supply aircraft, 462 00:30:10,000 --> 00:30:12,920 helicopters, fast jets, 463 00:30:12,920 --> 00:30:14,840 great lumbering transports. 464 00:30:16,480 --> 00:30:18,320 Spooky. 465 00:30:28,240 --> 00:30:32,240 When I was a child, I used to think these tall cactuses 466 00:30:32,240 --> 00:30:34,760 were the entire invention of cartoonists. 467 00:30:34,760 --> 00:30:37,320 I didn't really believe there could be such a thing. 468 00:30:37,320 --> 00:30:43,000 And to see them now in virtual forests is such an iconic American sight, isn't it? 469 00:30:43,000 --> 00:30:46,320 It's called something like Carnegiea gigantea 470 00:30:46,320 --> 00:30:48,880 and they have white flowers and an edible red fruit 471 00:30:48,880 --> 00:30:51,360 but they don't seem to be fruiting at the moment. 472 00:30:51,360 --> 00:30:54,280 And they are very often rude, of course, 473 00:30:54,280 --> 00:30:57,720 because they have two arms and other protuberances. 474 00:30:57,720 --> 00:31:03,400 If there was an Arizona That's Life, then Esther Rantzen would be receiving rude cactuses very week. 475 00:31:03,400 --> 00:31:07,920 But they are noble - some of them are up to 45 feet. 476 00:31:07,920 --> 00:31:10,120 Enormous! 477 00:31:10,120 --> 00:31:13,320 Some of these saguaro cacti are over 100 years old 478 00:31:13,320 --> 00:31:17,880 and were well into their middle-age, when the Tucson film studios started life here 479 00:31:17,880 --> 00:31:20,800 as an alternative base to Hollywood for shooting Westerns. 480 00:31:20,800 --> 00:31:27,160 Since 1939, it has been graced by everyone from Jimmy Stewart to the Duke, John Wayne, himself. 481 00:31:27,160 --> 00:31:31,840 The studios are still used for filming, as well as being an attraction for us out-of-towners. 482 00:31:31,840 --> 00:31:35,920 - That's a stagecoach you got there, mister. - It is pretty fancy, isn't it? 483 00:31:35,920 --> 00:31:40,000 - You don't see too many around these parts. - Never seen one in my life. 484 00:31:40,000 --> 00:31:43,840 You should come to London, you will see hundreds of them. 485 00:31:43,840 --> 00:31:46,920 Mind you, we don't see many cowboys in London, so it's a fair exchange. 486 00:32:00,840 --> 00:32:02,320 Well, well, Fry. 487 00:32:03,320 --> 00:32:05,400 I thought I told you. 488 00:32:05,400 --> 00:32:07,600 We don't like your kind in this town. 489 00:32:07,600 --> 00:32:10,960 You see, me and my boys here, we run this town. 490 00:32:10,960 --> 00:32:13,240 We don't like you here. 491 00:32:13,240 --> 00:32:15,760 Yes, well, you've told me a number of things in the past 492 00:32:15,760 --> 00:32:18,400 and none of them have left me singularly impressed. 493 00:32:18,400 --> 00:32:22,200 Well, looks like we outnumber you three to one. 494 00:32:22,200 --> 00:32:25,760 So how best you get on your horse and ride right out of my town? 495 00:32:26,600 --> 00:32:28,760 TWO GUNSHOTS 496 00:32:28,760 --> 00:32:32,840 Well, that seems to have evened the odds up a little, doesn't it? 497 00:32:32,840 --> 00:32:34,720 Fine by me, Fry. 498 00:32:35,720 --> 00:32:37,960 I wanted to kill you anyway. 499 00:32:37,960 --> 00:32:41,560 Oh, really? Many have tried, Marshall, few have succeeded. 500 00:32:41,560 --> 00:32:45,320 Only two, in recorded time, have succeeded in killing me 501 00:32:45,320 --> 00:32:47,880 and even they didn't do it very well. 502 00:32:47,880 --> 00:32:51,160 - Well, I'll do it right this time. - Make your move. 503 00:32:55,720 --> 00:32:58,120 Oh! Ooh. 504 00:32:58,120 --> 00:33:00,560 Ooh! 505 00:33:00,560 --> 00:33:03,000 Ooh, that hurt. 506 00:33:03,000 --> 00:33:05,680 Ooh, it's...it's rather like... 507 00:33:05,680 --> 00:33:07,440 Ooh! 508 00:33:07,440 --> 00:33:09,760 - Ooh! - You think about that next time. 509 00:33:09,760 --> 00:33:12,360 Oh, excuse me, I think I may be having a death scene. 510 00:33:12,360 --> 00:33:17,440 Oh, sweet mother of mercy, is this the end of Stephen Fry? 511 00:33:17,440 --> 00:33:19,880 Oh. 512 00:33:21,560 --> 00:33:23,520 You win, Marshall. 513 00:33:23,520 --> 00:33:28,200 Yes, we showed that sheriff a thing or too, didn't we, Spinoza? 514 00:33:28,200 --> 00:33:31,760 He'd never heard of phenomenology, can you imagine such a thing? 515 00:33:31,760 --> 00:33:34,560 Let's see what this town has to offer us, shall we? 516 00:33:34,560 --> 00:33:37,080 The Three Amigos! 517 00:33:37,080 --> 00:33:38,360 Huh! 518 00:33:52,640 --> 00:33:55,680 Eschewing my taxi for an eagle's-eye view, 519 00:33:55,680 --> 00:33:59,720 I travel the 350 miles north towards Las Vegas, Nevada, 520 00:33:59,720 --> 00:34:05,440 passing the famous stretch of the Colorado River, the Grand Canyon. 521 00:34:05,440 --> 00:34:08,680 At its westernmost end, the river is once again tamed. 522 00:34:08,680 --> 00:34:12,600 This time, by the Hoover Dam - an extraordinary engineering feat, 523 00:34:12,600 --> 00:34:15,560 born out of the great public works after the Depression. 524 00:34:15,560 --> 00:34:18,800 It's the dam that has created the water and light 525 00:34:18,800 --> 00:34:23,200 that powers the oasis of wealth, beauty, opulence and vulgarity 526 00:34:23,200 --> 00:34:25,520 that is Las Vegas today. 527 00:34:25,520 --> 00:34:27,760 Absolutely wonderful! 528 00:34:27,760 --> 00:34:29,280 Look at that! 529 00:34:29,280 --> 00:34:32,240 PILOT: And you have The Rio and The Palms. 530 00:34:32,240 --> 00:34:37,520 Sin City, as Vegas was known in the days of the Rat Pack, has evolved. 531 00:34:37,520 --> 00:34:41,320 Today, less than half its revenues come from gambling. 532 00:34:41,320 --> 00:34:46,640 Business Conventioneers are the new high rollers and with them come a host of arcane management rituals. 533 00:34:46,640 --> 00:34:50,680 The newest entrant in this lucrative field is an outfit called Spy Games. 534 00:34:50,680 --> 00:34:54,040 - Mr Fry? - Yes. - There has been an incident. 535 00:34:54,040 --> 00:34:56,720 Really? Well, do come in. 536 00:34:56,720 --> 00:34:58,440 Incident? 537 00:34:58,440 --> 00:35:02,040 Will you take the time to read the letter, please? Are you alone? 538 00:35:02,040 --> 00:35:04,280 Yes, I am...tragically. 539 00:35:06,680 --> 00:35:09,760 - They call me Trixie. - Do they? 540 00:35:09,760 --> 00:35:12,360 Trixie. Right. 541 00:35:12,360 --> 00:35:17,240 "Mr Fry, you have been personally selected to join forces 542 00:35:17,240 --> 00:35:20,480 "with the notorious Las Vegas crime boss, known as 'The Boss'. 543 00:35:20,480 --> 00:35:22,280 "You will be acting as our mole 544 00:35:22,280 --> 00:35:26,800 "in the newly-formed group of CCI special agents that think they can outsmart us." 545 00:35:26,800 --> 00:35:29,800 Here is the deal, Mr Fry. There has been a kidnapping. 546 00:35:29,800 --> 00:35:31,400 I've done the kidnapping. 547 00:35:31,400 --> 00:35:35,040 The problem is that the agents are getting a little too close. 548 00:35:35,040 --> 00:35:37,200 I need to know that I can trust you. 549 00:35:37,200 --> 00:35:39,120 Right. The agents of...? 550 00:35:39,120 --> 00:35:45,000 - The agents of the Agency. - Are getting too close? - Yes, to me, to the Boss. I need your help. 551 00:35:45,000 --> 00:35:48,800 - Right. I'm on your side, am I? - Yes, I hope so. Can I trust you? 552 00:35:48,800 --> 00:35:51,520 'Can Trixie trust me? Can I trust her? 553 00:35:51,520 --> 00:35:55,000 'Vegas, where the unthinkable, if you're not careful, becomes reality.' 554 00:35:55,000 --> 00:35:58,320 Sir, why do you have your glasses on your paper? 555 00:35:58,320 --> 00:36:02,360 - Ah, these. Well, I use these for limited vision. - Why aren't they on your face? 556 00:36:02,360 --> 00:36:06,440 - Why aren't they around your neck? - Because they are only necessary when I'm reading. I have presbyopia. 557 00:36:06,440 --> 00:36:11,200 - Are you being difficult? - No... - Get up against the wall. Get up against the wall. Spread. 558 00:36:11,200 --> 00:36:15,360 - Are you laughing? - Yes, because this was what I was looking forward to. - All right, we have case 257. 559 00:36:15,360 --> 00:36:17,160 Missing Michael. 560 00:36:17,160 --> 00:36:20,040 The mission. We have received information that Michael Caprio, 561 00:36:20,040 --> 00:36:24,880 the PR director of Chippendales, has been kidnapped and he is in danger. 562 00:36:24,880 --> 00:36:27,400 Your PR director has been kidnapped, 563 00:36:27,400 --> 00:36:30,600 so you can't dance for those ladies if we don't get him back. 564 00:36:30,600 --> 00:36:36,600 The Boss has planted his spies throughout the city to take watch over the current situation. 565 00:36:36,600 --> 00:36:40,160 These spies are expecting a visit from informants 566 00:36:40,160 --> 00:36:42,280 whom they've never met face to face, 567 00:36:42,280 --> 00:36:45,000 but are identified by a secret code word. 568 00:36:45,000 --> 00:36:50,680 The special agents are to pose as informants by using the code word to gain information, 569 00:36:50,680 --> 00:36:57,440 where the ransom is going to take place and discover who the Boss truly is, since we have no idea. 570 00:36:57,440 --> 00:37:00,040 So do you guys get what's going on? 571 00:37:00,040 --> 00:37:03,920 - All right. - You want us to pretend to be informants for the Boss? 572 00:37:03,920 --> 00:37:07,320 Exactly. Man, he is bright! 573 00:37:07,320 --> 00:37:12,040 Your team must select a team leader, appoint a case file agent... 574 00:37:12,040 --> 00:37:16,160 'Spy Games run corporate bonding and team leadership courses. 575 00:37:16,160 --> 00:37:21,120 'All that management guff I have luckily been able to avoid in my life. That is, until now. 576 00:37:21,120 --> 00:37:24,160 'Only this course seems rather more complicated 577 00:37:24,160 --> 00:37:28,040 'than firing a paint gun at a portly middle-management colleague called Dick.' 578 00:37:28,040 --> 00:37:31,560 - Predictive text? - Are you on our team? - Yes, I am on your team. 579 00:37:31,560 --> 00:37:35,120 I'm the only one who might look as if he isn't a Chippendale. 580 00:37:35,120 --> 00:37:37,840 'I'm tagging along today with some of the Chippendales,' 581 00:37:37,840 --> 00:37:41,200 one of the big hits on the strip for the past five years. 582 00:37:41,200 --> 00:37:45,640 I don't know why they need this but self-improvement is a fundamental American right 583 00:37:45,640 --> 00:37:49,000 and they seem to take it pretty seriously. 584 00:37:50,120 --> 00:37:51,880 Oh, gotta get the camera. 585 00:37:51,880 --> 00:37:53,400 Come on! 586 00:37:53,400 --> 00:37:55,000 I am so sorry. 587 00:37:57,080 --> 00:38:02,680 'I think we are off on the hunt to find informants who have been planted all over the city. 588 00:38:02,680 --> 00:38:07,120 'And unless I've got it wrong, my job is to sabotage the whole thing. 589 00:38:07,120 --> 00:38:11,640 'Not quite sure how this helps team-building. Maybe I'm a lesson in the limits of trust. 590 00:38:11,640 --> 00:38:14,880 'Or just a pawn in a game I don't understand.' 591 00:38:22,000 --> 00:38:26,360 Excellent. This is fun, isn't it? Nice pool, nice day. 'Nice breasts!' 592 00:38:26,360 --> 00:38:29,800 'Anyway, what is abundantly clear is that Americans love this stuff 593 00:38:29,800 --> 00:38:33,440 'and take it all on board without a hint of the sneering or cynicism 594 00:38:33,440 --> 00:38:37,440 'that I fear my compatriots might indulge in. Not I, of course.' 595 00:38:37,440 --> 00:38:43,040 - The Boss talks about a guy named Whyler a lot. - Whyler? - But I've never seen them together. 596 00:38:43,040 --> 00:38:46,520 - The hostage exchange... - We have the phone number, the picture... 597 00:38:46,520 --> 00:38:50,760 ..is going to take place by the railroad tracks. 598 00:38:50,760 --> 00:38:53,160 In essence, it's like a treasure hunt. 599 00:38:53,160 --> 00:38:58,840 'And, baffled as I am, it's an amusing way to see the mega resorts which have taken over the strip.' 600 00:38:58,840 --> 00:39:02,280 You've got the bureaucratic side of spying. 601 00:39:02,280 --> 00:39:07,880 One clue solved, so we're off to another of the many themed casinos. 602 00:39:07,880 --> 00:39:12,920 - Remind me what we are looking for here? - Well, we do not know. We are coming here for a clue. 603 00:39:12,920 --> 00:39:15,320 So we've just got to hope for a text. 604 00:39:15,320 --> 00:39:18,760 "Locate Jugs - Star Trek experience." 605 00:39:20,800 --> 00:39:23,600 And now we have to find a man called Jugs 606 00:39:23,600 --> 00:39:27,840 and we have to take photographic evidence of our meeting. 607 00:39:27,840 --> 00:39:30,560 Excuse me, sir, would you take a picture for us? 608 00:39:30,560 --> 00:39:33,520 That would be very kind, thank you very much. 609 00:39:33,520 --> 00:39:38,160 'But being the cunning double agent that I am, I've turned off the flash.' 610 00:39:39,920 --> 00:39:42,560 Is it on the wrong setting? 611 00:39:42,560 --> 00:39:45,320 Well done, James. 612 00:39:45,320 --> 00:39:48,240 'I'm beginning to enjoy my duplicity. 613 00:39:48,240 --> 00:39:53,200 'Maybe I should have taken that job with MI6 after all. 614 00:39:53,200 --> 00:39:59,880 'Oh, and I must exchange a token with Jugs, without the chips twigging - all very Spooks.' 615 00:39:59,880 --> 00:40:01,400 You're right, I'm so sorry. 616 00:40:02,800 --> 00:40:06,800 - You gotta make sure you count Jugs in. - Jugs. 617 00:40:06,800 --> 00:40:11,320 He had a hand off, he has tried twice to misdirect us in the directions... 618 00:40:11,320 --> 00:40:13,880 And I think he took the flash off the camera. 619 00:40:13,880 --> 00:40:15,960 He is trying to slow us down. 620 00:40:15,960 --> 00:40:19,600 He also keeps leaving the camera. That's why it's in Sean's hands now. 621 00:40:19,600 --> 00:40:25,360 So, we are at the Hilton and we are going to the Grand, we think, yes? 622 00:40:25,360 --> 00:40:28,480 One, two, three, four, five stops. 623 00:40:28,480 --> 00:40:33,520 OK, gentlemen, we do have some things on our mind right now and that is the mole. 624 00:40:33,520 --> 00:40:36,680 So if everybody, right now, would empty their left pocket. 625 00:40:40,280 --> 00:40:44,440 - Way to go! Gentlemen, I think we have found our mole. - I agree. 626 00:40:44,440 --> 00:40:49,000 - Why, why, why? - Because, one, I saw you hand it to Jugs. 627 00:40:49,000 --> 00:40:51,600 Plus, at the Star Trek Experience you tried to misguide us. 628 00:40:51,600 --> 00:40:54,280 Even when I told you the right way, you tried the other way. 629 00:40:54,280 --> 00:40:57,440 You also turned the flash off, so we couldn't take a picture. 630 00:40:57,440 --> 00:41:00,080 And you tried to leave the camera on the bar. 631 00:41:00,080 --> 00:41:06,640 So, with all these things, every time we talked it over as a group, we've decided you're the mole. 632 00:41:06,640 --> 00:41:10,960 'I have to admit the Chippendales are not just a bunch of pretty pecs, 633 00:41:10,960 --> 00:41:16,920 'and like so many Americans, they just seemed instinctively to get to this, whereas I don't. 634 00:41:16,920 --> 00:41:20,120 'If only their foreign policy was this sophisticated.' 635 00:41:20,120 --> 00:41:21,680 I'm a weasel, I'll fight for anybody. 636 00:41:21,680 --> 00:41:25,240 'Well, we seem to be reaching a climax of this thriller.' 637 00:41:25,240 --> 00:41:28,600 We think so far, we've seen Wyler. That's the guy is on the station. 638 00:41:28,600 --> 00:41:33,120 We think may be the Boss, the Boss who recruited us in the first place is actually the Boss. 639 00:41:33,120 --> 00:41:35,680 Plus, the one who recruited me and calls herself Trixie. 640 00:41:35,680 --> 00:41:39,080 She's called Trixie. That's what she told me her name was. 641 00:41:39,080 --> 00:41:41,160 'So, we make the rendezvous and the game plays out. 642 00:41:41,160 --> 00:41:46,640 'It turns out that Trixie is probably the real boss and... Oh, who cares?! 643 00:41:46,640 --> 00:41:50,440 'What's important is that the Chips are better bonded 644 00:41:50,440 --> 00:41:54,480 'and I've at least learned that I'm no more cut-out to be a spy than a Chippendale. 645 00:41:54,480 --> 00:41:57,960 'Oh, well. That's two more career doors slammed in my face.' 646 00:42:01,400 --> 00:42:04,040 One of the lesser-known facts about Las Vegas 647 00:42:04,040 --> 00:42:09,280 is that in some respects you could say the city was founded not by the mafia, 648 00:42:09,280 --> 00:42:13,400 not by property developers but by the Mormons, of all people, 649 00:42:13,400 --> 00:42:16,080 the Church of Latter Day Saints. 650 00:42:16,080 --> 00:42:20,040 When they founded their home city of Salt Lake, 651 00:42:20,040 --> 00:42:22,120 back in the 19th century, 652 00:42:22,120 --> 00:42:26,080 they then sent out other Mormons towards California. 653 00:42:26,080 --> 00:42:30,080 And every 50 miles, which was as far as a telegraph could reach 654 00:42:30,080 --> 00:42:31,640 without needing a relay station, 655 00:42:31,640 --> 00:42:34,240 they would set up a community, a settlement of some kind. 656 00:42:34,240 --> 00:42:39,160 And on the way, at the 50-mile marker, 657 00:42:39,160 --> 00:42:41,760 hit this little place in the desert. 658 00:42:41,760 --> 00:42:45,200 It seems a very, very unlikely mixture - 659 00:42:45,200 --> 00:42:47,720 Mormonism and Las Vegas - 660 00:42:47,720 --> 00:42:52,280 but I'm actually going to what you might call a... 661 00:42:52,280 --> 00:42:56,000 secret photographic shoot involving Mormons, 662 00:42:56,000 --> 00:42:58,400 right here in the city of Las Vegas. 663 00:42:58,400 --> 00:43:00,640 How did you get this idea, Jad? 664 00:43:00,640 --> 00:43:02,480 Ah, it actually came to me last year. 665 00:43:02,480 --> 00:43:05,120 I was talking with friends and thought, 666 00:43:05,120 --> 00:43:08,760 "You know wouldn't it be funny if, you see the fire-fighter calendars, 667 00:43:08,760 --> 00:43:11,360 "you got the police calendars, Marine calendars... 668 00:43:11,360 --> 00:43:13,880 "Well, what about Mormon missionary calendars?" 669 00:43:13,880 --> 00:43:16,200 Yes, it's very tongue in cheek, it's very funny, 670 00:43:16,200 --> 00:43:19,800 it also has a really deep-rooted message about tolerance, 671 00:43:19,800 --> 00:43:23,960 about accepting and about tearing down those religious barriers. 672 00:43:23,960 --> 00:43:28,760 Is this the kind of thing that might cause the elders to frown 673 00:43:28,760 --> 00:43:31,360 and raise eyebrows, if you can do both at the same time? 674 00:43:31,360 --> 00:43:37,280 Um, no, I think if we went any past this they might, um, 675 00:43:37,280 --> 00:43:40,760 you know, we're not doing anything they can frown upon. 676 00:43:40,760 --> 00:43:43,200 - No? - We're not breaking any rules. 677 00:43:43,200 --> 00:43:45,840 No, right. What about the structure of the church? 678 00:43:45,840 --> 00:43:50,760 In the Church of England, or the Episcopalian church as it's called in America, 679 00:43:50,760 --> 00:43:54,000 there are Bishops and Priests, and a hierarchy, if you like. 680 00:43:54,000 --> 00:43:55,840 Is there a hierarchy, you have elders? 681 00:43:55,840 --> 00:43:59,360 Yes, there's the Prophet, who overseas the whole church. 682 00:43:59,360 --> 00:44:03,560 - Oh, so there is an equivalent of a Pope, an absolute head. - Correct. 683 00:44:03,560 --> 00:44:06,600 We want this to be a real angelic look 684 00:44:06,600 --> 00:44:10,920 because that's like a belief, you know, the Mormon beliefs are based on a lot of angels. 685 00:44:10,920 --> 00:44:15,600 - There is this thing about celestial sort of... - Celestial Kingdom. 686 00:44:15,600 --> 00:44:17,400 So you could become an angel? 687 00:44:17,400 --> 00:44:19,920 Well, it's more than just becoming an angel. 688 00:44:19,920 --> 00:44:22,480 It's actually becoming resurrected. 689 00:44:22,480 --> 00:44:27,240 So the Mormon beliefs are that we live here on Earth, we get a body, flesh and bone, you die, 690 00:44:27,240 --> 00:44:30,680 - and then through the grace of Jesus you're resurrected. - Right. 691 00:44:30,680 --> 00:44:32,400 - So it is a Christian church? - Yes. 692 00:44:32,400 --> 00:44:37,800 One of the core beliefs of Mormonism, which causes a lots of controversy with other Christian faiths, 693 00:44:37,800 --> 00:44:41,120 is the fact Mormons believe that they can actually become like God 694 00:44:41,120 --> 00:44:44,960 and become a God of their universe, like the God of our universe. 695 00:44:44,960 --> 00:44:48,440 In a strange way, science has at least vindicated the possibility 696 00:44:48,440 --> 00:44:51,360 by suggesting there could be infinite universes. 697 00:44:51,360 --> 00:44:56,360 It's interesting because the Mormon church is very conservative but their beliefs are very radical. 698 00:44:56,360 --> 00:44:58,000 It's an interesting point. 699 00:44:58,000 --> 00:45:01,280 It's that mixture of the straight-laced attitudes - 700 00:45:01,280 --> 00:45:03,120 no sex before marriage, 701 00:45:03,120 --> 00:45:06,880 no drugs including alcohol, tobacco, caffeine, 702 00:45:06,880 --> 00:45:11,240 even quite minor ones like cups of coffee or Coca-Cola. 703 00:45:11,240 --> 00:45:16,240 Yet, on the other hand, the most extravagant beliefs for the future, 704 00:45:16,240 --> 00:45:21,320 and in the nature of celestial transcendence and angelic beings 705 00:45:21,320 --> 00:45:24,800 and beatific seraphic and cherubic hosts. 706 00:45:24,800 --> 00:45:27,320 What language did you just talk? 707 00:45:29,520 --> 00:45:32,920 - You lost me, like, about 20 words ago! - Oh, I'm sorry about that! 708 00:45:32,920 --> 00:45:36,920 So do you think you will have a career in the church, or...? 709 00:45:36,920 --> 00:45:40,480 - No, I don't have the personality for it. - Really? Why do you say that? 710 00:45:40,480 --> 00:45:42,520 What personality do you need then, do you think? 711 00:45:42,520 --> 00:45:48,080 Um, I think you need a little more strict personality... a little more not-smiley. 712 00:45:48,080 --> 00:45:51,080 Do you think there is prejudice against Mormonism in America? 713 00:45:51,080 --> 00:45:54,640 I really do believe that Mormons are looked at as a second-rate citizen. 714 00:45:54,640 --> 00:45:59,320 I think some of the prejudices are just lack of education. 715 00:45:59,320 --> 00:46:02,360 Like as far as the gays and the polygamists, 716 00:46:02,360 --> 00:46:06,000 - they that we believe certain things which we don't. - Yeah. 717 00:46:06,000 --> 00:46:09,600 - There's a moment when you have to mention it to someone. - Right. 718 00:46:09,600 --> 00:46:12,840 And you may not see it in their face but you feel that "Oh". 719 00:46:12,840 --> 00:46:15,000 "Oh?" A weird? Or do people just go, "Oh, OK?" 720 00:46:15,000 --> 00:46:20,200 Sometimes people ask me how many kids I have or how many wives. Stuff like that. 721 00:46:20,200 --> 00:46:23,400 - So you just get used to that? - I just laugh. 722 00:46:23,400 --> 00:46:26,000 I mean, you are a proselytising religion though? 723 00:46:26,000 --> 00:46:30,200 You do want to convert the rest of the world to Mormonism, unlike Judaism, say? 724 00:46:30,200 --> 00:46:33,760 Right, that's their mission. The mission of the church is to bring people in. 725 00:46:33,760 --> 00:46:36,600 I suppose some people would object to that. 726 00:46:36,600 --> 00:46:42,080 I mean, some people just don't like the idea that they are going to be preached to. 727 00:46:42,080 --> 00:46:43,800 Oh, absolutely. I don't like to be preached to. 728 00:46:43,800 --> 00:46:45,560 Who likes to be preached to? 729 00:46:45,560 --> 00:46:49,200 And I think missionary work is not necessarily to go convince people, 730 00:46:49,200 --> 00:46:52,240 it's to find those people who are looking for something. 731 00:46:52,240 --> 00:46:56,640 Looking for answers, and, you know, hey, this may work for you, it may not work for you. 732 00:46:56,640 --> 00:46:59,720 And this is the official uniform of missionaries. 733 00:46:59,720 --> 00:47:01,880 This is how they are identified. 734 00:47:01,880 --> 00:47:04,000 You got the white shirt, tie, name tag, 735 00:47:04,000 --> 00:47:06,640 sometimes backpack, bike, you know. 736 00:47:06,640 --> 00:47:09,240 These are the guys that you see going door to door. 737 00:47:09,240 --> 00:47:13,160 And then the guys that we shoot, you know, 738 00:47:13,160 --> 00:47:15,200 that's them for who they really are, 739 00:47:15,200 --> 00:47:18,480 to show that these guys are just regular guys. 740 00:47:18,480 --> 00:47:21,000 Regular kids. They are young, they go out when they are 19. 741 00:47:21,000 --> 00:47:23,360 LAUGHTER 742 00:47:23,360 --> 00:47:27,320 That's brilliant. That is very funny. 743 00:47:27,320 --> 00:47:29,040 That is hysterical! 744 00:47:29,040 --> 00:47:31,360 They said I was being boring, 745 00:47:31,360 --> 00:47:35,760 - so I tried to spice it up a little. - Really? What scripture was that? 746 00:47:35,760 --> 00:47:37,960 Of course, there is more to Nevada 747 00:47:37,960 --> 00:47:40,840 than the new kid in the desert called Vegas. 748 00:47:40,840 --> 00:47:43,280 It's known as the Silver State for good reason. 749 00:47:43,280 --> 00:47:48,840 Gold and silver mining reached a peak here in Virginia City 150 years ago. 750 00:47:48,840 --> 00:47:53,000 30,000 prospectors made this town one of the richest in America 751 00:47:53,000 --> 00:47:56,840 and, to help them spend their hard-earned scratchings from the mother lode, 752 00:47:56,840 --> 00:47:59,800 came inevitably the gambling dens and prostitutes. 753 00:47:59,800 --> 00:48:01,880 The mines have all but shut down now 754 00:48:01,880 --> 00:48:05,440 but the whore houses, like the casinos, are still booming 755 00:48:05,440 --> 00:48:08,160 and only in Nevada they are entirely legal. 756 00:48:08,160 --> 00:48:11,240 Queen among them is the illustrious Mustang Ranch, 757 00:48:11,240 --> 00:48:13,800 run by its formidable madam Susan Austin. 758 00:48:13,800 --> 00:48:16,160 Hello, yes, you must be Stephen. 759 00:48:16,160 --> 00:48:20,240 - I am indeed. Hello. Wow! - Well, what a pleasure. - It's a pleasure to meet you as well. 760 00:48:20,240 --> 00:48:23,360 This is my first time in a brothel, I have to confess. 761 00:48:23,360 --> 00:48:26,880 - I have a brothel virgin on my hands, what fun! - You do. 762 00:48:26,880 --> 00:48:31,200 This is our parlour and this is where the ladies do their line-ups. 763 00:48:31,200 --> 00:48:34,080 It's also where we have all our achievements. 764 00:48:34,080 --> 00:48:37,800 - Is there an award industry for brothels? - Oh, yes, there is! 765 00:48:37,800 --> 00:48:40,560 Brothel of the Year? Courtesan of the Year! 766 00:48:40,560 --> 00:48:44,920 I was trying to create a British gentleman's club, 767 00:48:44,920 --> 00:48:48,760 where the old hunters could sit around in front of the fireplace 768 00:48:48,760 --> 00:48:52,280 and discuss the animals they have hunted in Africa, 769 00:48:52,280 --> 00:48:54,120 as well as the women they conquered. 770 00:48:54,120 --> 00:48:55,920 It would raise eyebrows in the Garrick, 771 00:48:55,920 --> 00:48:58,200 which is a club I am a member of in London, 772 00:48:58,200 --> 00:49:01,960 but you've got comfortable chairs and dark wood. It's on its way. 773 00:49:01,960 --> 00:49:05,320 - A fireplace. - And you mentioned the line-up, 774 00:49:05,320 --> 00:49:10,400 - is that when a customer - would you say customer or John, or...? - Well, I use client. - Client, right. 775 00:49:10,400 --> 00:49:14,560 When a client comes in, we seat him here and then the ladies come out. 776 00:49:14,560 --> 00:49:17,240 One from each side of the room, one at a time. 777 00:49:17,240 --> 00:49:19,800 They introduce themselves and then step back against the mirror. 778 00:49:19,800 --> 00:49:23,320 - Hi, I'm Mandy. - Mandy, hi. Very nice to see you. 779 00:49:23,320 --> 00:49:26,440 Well, sit down. I'm here for a chat, as it happens. 780 00:49:26,440 --> 00:49:31,480 That way, the gentlemen see them walk, talk and up close 781 00:49:31,480 --> 00:49:35,000 and decide whether that's the one he wants to pick. 782 00:49:35,000 --> 00:49:40,640 See, if I were doing that, I would just be embarrassed about offending the one that I didn't choose. 783 00:49:40,640 --> 00:49:44,360 Oh, no, no, no. I always give a little preamble before. 784 00:49:44,360 --> 00:49:47,360 I say, "Honey, this is the way it works. 785 00:49:47,360 --> 00:49:50,400 "All the ladies come out, they introduce themselves. 786 00:49:50,400 --> 00:49:51,640 "You pick the one you like. 787 00:49:51,640 --> 00:49:55,360 "Now, if you don't come to a decision with her, you come pick another one. 788 00:49:55,360 --> 00:49:57,560 "You are not getting married, this is a business." 789 00:49:57,560 --> 00:50:00,520 How did you find the first time? 790 00:50:00,520 --> 00:50:05,400 Was it nerve-wracking, did you get help, were you all psyched up for it? 791 00:50:05,400 --> 00:50:09,480 Um, I was nervous, but I had... a friend of mine was here. 792 00:50:09,480 --> 00:50:12,560 Everybody, all the girls here are very awesome. 793 00:50:12,560 --> 00:50:15,640 Just very helpful, you know, and they... 794 00:50:15,640 --> 00:50:20,600 It's like, when you first start, you're either prepared to do it or you're not, you know? 795 00:50:20,600 --> 00:50:24,880 So, they choose and then their rooms are off here, are they? 796 00:50:24,880 --> 00:50:29,520 - And you haven't had too many weird requests yet? - Never. No. 797 00:50:29,520 --> 00:50:34,520 But what's weird to me is far beyond what's probably weird to other people! 798 00:50:34,520 --> 00:50:38,080 You're a young girl, an attractive young girl, 799 00:50:38,080 --> 00:50:40,480 and you might get some men like me coming in - 800 00:50:40,480 --> 00:50:45,160 great overweight, wobbly people in their fifties, and your heart must sink, "Oh, no!" 801 00:50:45,160 --> 00:50:49,720 - Not at all, not with me. - Oh, you're OK with that, are you? 802 00:50:49,720 --> 00:50:54,160 That's why I'm here. I like men of all different types, sizes, shapes. 803 00:50:54,160 --> 00:50:57,600 - I do. - And do you think that's... And you enjoy your work? 804 00:50:57,600 --> 00:51:01,400 - I love it. I love my job! - Fabulous. Not many people can say that. 805 00:51:01,400 --> 00:51:04,720 My mum knows and she's like, "I'm so glad you found a job you like." 806 00:51:04,720 --> 00:51:07,520 I'm like, "Me too! I should have been here years ago." 807 00:51:07,520 --> 00:51:09,880 Now, we're going to stop right here. 808 00:51:09,880 --> 00:51:15,480 These are our negotiating rooms. We don't discuss sex and money in the bedroom. Most brothels do. 809 00:51:15,480 --> 00:51:19,000 It has to be discussed in a private room. It can never be done in public. 810 00:51:19,000 --> 00:51:21,640 That's one of our state statutes. So... 811 00:51:21,640 --> 00:51:24,400 - Oh, so this is by law, not just...? - By law. 812 00:51:24,400 --> 00:51:29,320 And the girl will decide on the basis of what's required how much it will cost? 813 00:51:29,320 --> 00:51:33,880 - That's how she prices it. - And it's not your decision, as the madam? - No, it's not my decision at all. 814 00:51:33,880 --> 00:51:35,920 It's the independent contractor. 815 00:51:35,920 --> 00:51:38,520 She is a businesswoman, she sets her own prices. 816 00:51:38,520 --> 00:51:44,320 Right. So it's like having the Louis Vuitton concession in a department store, as it were? 817 00:51:44,320 --> 00:51:48,560 - That's right, exactly. - You are the department store manager but they can charge what they like. 818 00:51:48,560 --> 00:51:50,880 They can charge what they'd like. 819 00:51:50,880 --> 00:51:57,280 What would happen if you met a man - either a client, or a man you happened to meet in some other way - 820 00:51:57,280 --> 00:52:01,160 whom you completely fell for, who became THE man. 821 00:52:01,160 --> 00:52:04,560 Would you still want to carry on working? 822 00:52:04,560 --> 00:52:08,080 Yes. If he was "the man" he would have to accept that fact. 823 00:52:08,080 --> 00:52:10,760 So we are first going to the Italian Suite. 824 00:52:10,760 --> 00:52:14,280 Oh, my word, this is very grand! 825 00:52:14,280 --> 00:52:17,560 - Isn't this wonderful? - This is not what I expected at all. 826 00:52:17,560 --> 00:52:20,960 - No, not at all. - This is like a four-star hotel. 827 00:52:20,960 --> 00:52:24,560 Are there many advantages to legalised prostitution, then? 828 00:52:24,560 --> 00:52:27,640 When you control something like this and you make it legal, 829 00:52:27,640 --> 00:52:29,880 you have state statutes, federal statutes. 830 00:52:29,880 --> 00:52:32,800 Everything that guidelines how you operate. 831 00:52:32,800 --> 00:52:37,200 So the girls have safety checks, they use mandatory condoms, 832 00:52:37,200 --> 00:52:40,120 everything is done in a very legal, very safe manner. 833 00:52:40,120 --> 00:52:44,320 This is the mini Hawaiian Vacation, 834 00:52:44,320 --> 00:52:47,920 - complete with chickens on the ground. - It's extraordinary! 835 00:52:47,920 --> 00:52:51,120 The monies that are paid to the ladies now are taxable, 836 00:52:51,120 --> 00:52:54,080 so they become a productive member of society. 837 00:52:54,080 --> 00:52:57,760 They don't have a pimp beating them up and stealing their money. 838 00:52:57,760 --> 00:53:00,480 They are actually independent businesswomen. 839 00:53:00,480 --> 00:53:02,920 Now, we are at the Asian Suite. 840 00:53:02,920 --> 00:53:05,000 Asian Suite... 841 00:53:05,000 --> 00:53:08,400 Oh, my goodness, Chinoiserie a go-go! 842 00:53:08,400 --> 00:53:10,440 Look at that! 843 00:53:10,440 --> 00:53:12,840 It is the oldest profession in the world. 844 00:53:12,840 --> 00:53:17,600 You can only hide it by not making it legal. It goes underground. 845 00:53:17,600 --> 00:53:21,960 And the beautiful double-sized Californian king bed. 846 00:53:21,960 --> 00:53:23,960 - That is... - Now, that's a playground. 847 00:53:23,960 --> 00:53:25,960 You could party on this bed, couldn't you? 848 00:53:25,960 --> 00:53:29,520 Yes, you could party on this bed and never run out of room. 849 00:53:29,520 --> 00:53:31,880 And I've had a few groups who have. 850 00:53:37,520 --> 00:53:42,240 Leaving the lubricious delights of the Mustang forever behind me, 851 00:53:42,240 --> 00:53:46,480 I head for the mountains and the purifying alpine air of Lake Tahoe 852 00:53:46,480 --> 00:53:49,080 that straddles Nevada and California. 853 00:54:02,560 --> 00:54:06,160 Once over the Sierra Nevada mountains, it's California, 854 00:54:06,160 --> 00:54:08,680 with the scent of the ocean to lure me on. 855 00:54:08,680 --> 00:54:12,960 # All the leaves are brown 856 00:54:10,400 --> 00:54:12,960 All the leaves are brown 857 00:54:12,960 --> 00:54:17,680 # And the sky is grey 858 00:54:14,800 --> 00:54:17,680 And the sky is grey... # 859 00:54:17,680 --> 00:54:20,840 Unlike the pioneers and prospectors of old, 860 00:54:20,840 --> 00:54:22,720 I've had it pretty easy in my cab 861 00:54:22,720 --> 00:54:27,760 and I've now made it, as the anthem goes, from sea to shining sea. 862 00:54:27,760 --> 00:54:33,880 # ..If I was in LA 863 00:54:31,040 --> 00:54:33,880 If I was in LA 864 00:54:33,880 --> 00:54:37,760 # California dreaming 865 00:54:35,920 --> 00:54:37,760 California dreaming 866 00:54:37,760 --> 00:54:39,800 # On such a winter's day. # 867 00:54:43,040 --> 00:54:45,720 There we are - the Pacific Ocean. 868 00:54:47,240 --> 00:54:51,000 As Darwin remarked, the very badly named ocean. 869 00:54:54,320 --> 00:54:56,760 It's not being pacific today. 870 00:55:08,760 --> 00:55:10,760 It seems a long, long time ago 871 00:55:10,760 --> 00:55:15,400 and a lot of miles since I saw that first sunrise in Eastport, Maine. 872 00:55:15,400 --> 00:55:18,280 But the journey is still far from over. 873 00:55:18,280 --> 00:55:21,600 In the next episode I discover the delights of San Francisco, 874 00:55:21,600 --> 00:55:24,880 travel up the Pacific coast, meet vintners and dope smokers, 875 00:55:24,880 --> 00:55:27,760 encounter sasquatch believers and old believers, 876 00:55:27,760 --> 00:55:31,000 go hunting for whales and swimming with sharks. 877 00:55:55,240 --> 00:55:58,280 Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd 878 00:55:58,280 --> 00:56:01,800 E-mail subtitling@bbc.co.uk